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REAR SIDE MARKER LIGHT


STOP/TAILLIGHT


BACK-UP LIGHT


Lights


Check the following:


Headlights (low and high beam) Parking lights Taillights Brake lights High-mount brake light Turn signals Back-up lights Hazard light function License plate light Side marker lights Daytime running lights (Canadian models)


If you find any bulbs are burned out, replace them as soon as possible. Refer to the chart on pages 327 and 329 to determine what type of replacement bulb is needed.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


Headlight Aiming The headlights were properly aimed when your car was new. If you regularly carry heavy items in the trunk or pull a trailer, readjustment may be required. Adjustment of the headlights should be performed by a Honda technician or other qualified mechanic.


Maintenance


Replacing a Headlight Bulb Your car has two bulbs on each side, four in total. Make sure you are replacing the bulb that is burned out. Your car uses halogen headlight bulbs. When replacing a bulb, handle it by its plastic case and protect the glass from contact with your skin or hard objects. If you touch the glass, clean it with denatured alcohol and a clean cloth.


NOTICE


Halogen headlight bulbs get very hot when lit. Oil, perspiration, or a scratch on the glass can cause the bulb to overheat and shatter.


AIR INTAKE DUCT


4-cylinder models


1. Open the hood.


4-cylinder models If you need to change the head- light bulb on the passenger's side, remove the radiator reserve tank and the air intake duct.


6-cylinder models If you need to change the headlight bulb on the driver's side, remove the radiator reserve tank.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst BULB


TAB


2. Remove the electrical connector


from the bulb by squeezing the connector to unlock the tab, then slide the connector off the bulb.


3. Remove the bulb by turning it


approximately one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


4. Insert the new bulb into the hole


and turn it one-quarter turn clock- wise to lock it in place.


5. Push the electrical connector back


onto the bulb. Make sure it is on all the way.


6. Turn on the headlights to test the


new bulb.


7. 4-cylinder models


(Passenger's side) Reinstall the radiator reserve tank and the air intake duct.


6-cylinder models (Driver's side) Reinstall the radiator reserve tank.


Lights


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


Replacing Front Turn Signal and Side Marker Light Bulbs


HOLDING CLIP


5. Remove the burned out bulb from


the socket by pushing it in and turning counterclockwise until it unlocks.


6. Install the new bulb in the socket.


Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


7. Insert the socket back into the


headlight assembly. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


8. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


1. If you are changing the bulb on


the driver's side, start the engine, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, and turn off the engine. If you are changing the bulb on the passenger's side, turn the steering wheel to the left.


Maintenance


2. Use a flat-tipped screwdriver to


remove the holding clip from the inner fender.


9. Put the inner fender cover in place.


Install the holding clip. Lock it in place by pushing on the center.


3. Pull the inner fender cover away


from the fender and bumper.


4. Remove the socket from the


headlight assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing a Parking Light Bulb


POWER STEERING FLUID TANK


HOLDER


1. Open the hood. The front parking light is next to the headlight bulb.


the driver's side, remove the radiator reserve tank.


2. Remove the socket from the


headlight assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


4-cylinder models If you need to change a bulb on the passenger's side, remove the radiator reserve tank. On the driver's side, remove the power steering fluid tank.


6-cylinder models If you need to change a bulb on


Lights


3. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


4. Insert the socket back into the


headlight assembly. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


5. Turn on the parking lights to


make sure the new bulb works.


6. 4-cylinder models (Passenger's side) Reinstall the radiator reserve tank. (Driver's side) Reinstall the power steering fluid tank.


6-cylinder models (Driver's side) Reinstall the radiator reserve tank.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst 4. Remove the socket by turning it


one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


5. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


6. Reinstall the socket into the light assembly by turning it clockwise until it locks.


7. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


3. Determine which of the two bulbs


is burned out: stop/taillight or turn signal/taillight.


8. Reinstall the trunk lining. Make


sure it is installed under the edge of the trunk seal.


Lights


Replacing Rear Bulbs (in Fenders)


FASTENER


1. Open the trunk.


2. Remove the fastener from the side


of the trunk lining by turning it counterclockwise with a coin. Pull the lining back.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst 9. Put the fastener in the hole on the


side of the trunk lining and push on the center until it locks (the center is flush with the head).


Replacing Rear Bulbs (in Trunk Lid)


Lights


SCREW


1. Open the trunk.


2. Remove the screw securing the plastic cover. Then remove the plastic cover.


3. Determine which of the two bulbs


is burned out: stop/taillight or back-up light.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


4. Remove the socket by turning it


one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


Replacing a Rear Side Marker Light Bulb


5. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


6. Reinstall the socket into the light


assembly.


7. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


8. Reinstall the plastic cover and


secure it with the screw.


Maintenance


SCREW


1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the side marker assembly mounting screw.


3. Remove the socket from the light


assembly by turning it counter- clockwise.


2. Remove the assembly from the fender by pulling out the back edge and sliding the assembly backwards.


4. Remove the bulb from the socket


by pulling it straight out. Install the new bulb. Turn on the headlights to test the bulb.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst 5. Insert the socket in the assembly.


Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


Replacing a High-mount Brake Light Bulb


3. Reinstall the socket. Turn it


clockwise until it locks.


6. Reinstall the side marker assem-


bly in the bumper. Tighten the mounting screw securely.


4. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


Lights


1. Open the trunk and remove the


socket from the light assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counter- clockwise.


2. Remove the burned-out bulb by


pulling it straight out of the socket. Install the new bulb in the socket.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


Replacing a Rear License Plate Bulb


3. Turn on the parking lights and


check that the new bulb is working.


4. Put the lens back into the light


assembly, right side first. Push on the left edge until it snaps into place.


1. Insert a flat blade screwdriver


between the left edge of the lens and the housing. The lens will come down.


2. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb in until it bottoms in the socket.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing Bulbs in the Interior Courtesy Lights The ceiling light, door light and vanity mirror light come apart the same way, but they do not use the same type of bulb.


1. Remove the lens by carefully


prying on the edge of the lens with a fingernail file or a small flat-tip screwdriver. Do not pry on the edge of the housing around the lens.


CEILING LIGHT


DOOR LIGHT


Lights


Ceiling light:


Pry on the front edge of the lens near both sides.


Door light:


Pry on the top middle of the lens.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


SPOTLIGHT


VANITY MIRROR LIGHT


Replacing the Trunk Light Bulb


TRUNK LIGHT


LENS


Spotlights:


Pry on the front edge in front of both spotlights.


2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.


3. Push the new bulb into the metal tabs. Snap the lens back in place.


1. Open the trunk. Pull down the


trunk light cover.


2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.


3. Push the new bulb into the metal


tabs.


4. Push the cover back in place.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If you need to park your car for an extended period (more than one month), there are several things you should do to prepare it for storage. Proper preparation helps prevent deterioration and makes it easier to get your car back on the road. If possible, store your car indoors.


Fill the fuel tank.


Change the engine oil and filter (see page 232 ).


Wash and dry the exterior completely.


Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry.


Leave the parking brake off. Put the transmission in Reverse (5-speed manual) or Park (automatic).


Storing Your Car


Block the rear wheels.


If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jackstands so the tires are off the ground.


Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors).


Disconnect the battery.


Support the front wiper blade arms with a folded towel or rag so they do not touch the windshield.


To minimize sticking, apply a silicone spray lubricant to all door and trunk seals. Also, apply a vehicle body wax to the painted surfaces that mate with the door and trunk seals.


Cover the car with a "breathable" cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton. Nonporous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture, which can damage the paint.


If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month).


If you store your car for 12 months or longer, have your Honda dealer perform the inspections called for in the 24 months/30,000 miles (48,000
km) maintenance schedule (Normal Conditions) as soon as you take it out of storage (see page 220 ). The replacements called for in the maintenance schedule are not needed unless the car has actually reached that time or mileage.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Regular cleaning and polishing of your Honda helps to keep it "new" looking. This section gives you hints on how to clean your car and preserve its appearance: the paint, brightwork, wheels and interior. Also included are several things you can do to help prevent corrosion.


Appearance Care


Exterior Care.................................. 286
Washing...................................... 286
Waxing....................................... 287
Aluminum Wheels..................... 287
Paint Touch-up........................... 287
Interior Care................................... 288
Carpeting.................................... 288
Floor Mats.................................. 288
Fabric.......................................... 289
Vinyl............................................ 289
Leather........................................ 289
Seat Belts.................................... 289
Windows..................................... 290
Air Fresheners........................... 290
Corrosion Protection..................... 291
Body Repairs.................................. 292


Appearance Care


Main Menust Exterior Care


Washing Frequent washing helps preserve your car's beauty. Dirt and grit can scratch the paint, while tree sap and bird droppings can permanently ruin the finish.


Wash your car in a shady area, not in direct sunlight. If the car is parked in the sun, move it into the shade and let the exterior cool down before you start.


Only use the solvents and cleaners recommended in this Owner's Manual.


NOTICE


Chemical solvents and strong cleaners can damage the paint, metal, and plastic on your car.


Appearance Care


When you have washed and rinsed the whole exterior, dry it with a chamois or soft towel. Letting it air-dry will cause dulling and water spots.


As you dry the car, inspect it for chips and scratches that could allow corrosion to start. Repair them with touch-up paint (see page 287).


Rinse the car thoroughly with cool water to remove loose dirt.


Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild detergent, such as dishwashing liquid or a product made especially for car washing.


Wash the car using the water and detergent solution and a soft- bristle brush, sponge, or soft cloth. Start at the top and work your way down. Rinse frequently.


Check the body for road tar, tree sap, etc. Remove these stains with tar remover or turpentine. Rinse it off immediately so it does not harm the finish. Remember to re- wax these areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Waxing Always wash and dry the whole car before waxing it. You should wax your car, including the metal trim, whenever water sits on the surface in large patches. It should form into beads or droplets after waxing.


You should use a quality liquid or paste wax. Apply it according to the instructions on the container. In general, there are two types of products:


Waxes — A wax coats the finish and protects it from damage by exposure to sunlight, air pollution, etc. You should use a wax on your Honda when it is new.


Polishes — Polishes and cleaner/ waxes can restore the shine to paint that has oxidized and lost some of its shine. They normally contain mild abrasives and solvents that remove the top layer of the finish. You


should use a polish on your Honda if the finish does not have its original shine after using a wax.


Cleaning tar, insects, etc. with removers also takes off the wax. Remember to re-wax those areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.


Aluminum Wheels On some models Clean your Honda's aluminum alloy wheels as you do the rest of the exterior. Wash them with the same solution, and rinse them thoroughly.


The wheels have a protective clear- coat that keeps the aluminum from corroding and tarnishing. Using harsh chemicals, including some commercial wheel cleaners, or stiff brushes can damage this clear-coat. Only use a mild detergent and soft brush or sponge to clean the wheels.


Exterior Care


Paint Touch-up Your dealer has touch-up paint to match your car's color. The color code is printed on a sticker on the driver's doorjamb. Take this code to your dealer so you are sure to get the correct color.


Inspect your car frequently for chips or scratches in the paint. Repair them right away to prevent corrosion of the metal underneath. Use the touch-up paint only on small chips and scratches. More extensive paint damage should be repaired by a professional.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Floor Mats


Interior Care


Carpeting Vacuum the carpeting frequently to remove dirt. Ground-in dirt will make the carpet wear out faster. Periodically shampoo the carpet to keep it looking new. Use one of the foam-type carpet cleaners on the market. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner, applying it with a sponge or soft brush. Keep the carpeting as dry as possible by not adding water to the foam.


On all V6 models and the 4-cylinder EX model The Genuine Honda driver's floor mat that came with your car was designed to be hooked over the floor mat anchor. This keeps the floor mat from sliding forward and possibly interfering with the pedals.


Appearance Care


If you remove the floor mat, make sure to re-anchor it when you put it back in your car.


If you replace it, use a genuine Honda floor mat that is designed to be used with the floor mat anchor in your car.


If you use a non-Honda floor mat in the driver's footwell, make sure it fits properly and that it can be used with the floor mat anchor.


Do not put additional floor mats on top of the anchored mat, otherwise the additional mats may slide forward and interfere with the pedals.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Leather On some models Vacuum dirt and dust from the leather frequently. Pay particular attention to the pleats and seams. Clean the leather with a soft cloth dampened with clear water, then buff it with a clean, dry cloth. If further cleaning is needed, use a soap specifically for leather, such as saddle soap. Apply this soap with a damp, soft cloth. Wipe down and buff as described above.


Fabric Vacuum dirt and dust out of the material frequently. For general cleaning, use a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water, letting it air dry. To clean off stubborn spots, use a commercially-available fabric cleaner. Test it on a hidden area of the fabric first, to make sure it does not bleach or stain the fabric. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner.


Vinyl Remove dirt and dust with a vacuum cleaner. Wipe the vinyl with a soft cloth dampened in a solution of mild soap and water. Use the same solution with a soft-bristle brush on more difficult spots. You can also use commercially-available spray or foam-type vinyl cleaners.


Interior Care


Seat Belts


LOOP


If your seat belts get dirty, you can use a soft brush with a mixture of mild soap and warm water to clean them. Do not use bleach, dye, or cleaning solvents. They can weaken the belt material. Let the belts air- dry before you use the car.


CONTINUED


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Interior Care


Dirt build-up in the loops of the seat belt anchors can cause the belts to retract slowly. Wipe the insides of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in mild soap and warm water or isopropyl alcohol.


Appearance Care


Air Fresheners If you want to use an air freshener/ deodorizer in the interior of your car, it is best to use a solid type. Some liquid air fresheners contain chemi- cals that may cause parts of the interior trim and fabric to crack or discolor.


If you use a liquid air freshener, make sure you fasten it securely so it does not spill as you drive.


Windows Clean the windows, inside and out, with a commercially-available glass cleaner. You can also use a mixture of one part white vinegar to ten parts water. This will remove the haze that builds up on the inside of the windows. Use a soft cloth or paper towels to clean all glass and clear plastic surfaces.


NOTICE


The rear window defogger and antenna wires are bonded to the inside of the glass. Wiping vigorously up-and- down can dislodge and break these wires. When cleaning the rear window, use gentle pressure and wipe side-to- side.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Two factors normally contribute to causing corrosion in your car:


1. Moisture trapped in body cavities. Dirt and road salt that collects in hollows on the underside of the car stays damp, promoting corrosion in that area.


Many corrosion-preventive measures are built into your Honda. You can help keep your car from corroding by performing some simple periodic maintenance:


Repair chips and scratches in the paint as soon as you discover them.


2. Removal of paint and protective coatings from the exterior and underside of the car.


Inspect and clean out the drain holes in the bottom of the doors and body.


Check the floor coverings for dampness. Carpeting and floor mats may remain damp for a long time, especially in winter. This dampness can eventually cause the floor panels to corrode.


Corrosion Protection


Use a high-pressure spray to clean the underside of your car. This is especially important in areas that use road salt in winter. It is also a good idea in humid climates and areas subject to salt air. Cars equipped with ABS have a sensor and wiring at each wheel. Be careful not to damage them.


Have the corrosion-preventive coatings on the underside of your car inspected and repaired periodically.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Body Repairs


Body repairs can affect your car's resistance to corrosion. If your car needs repairs after a collision, pay close attention to the parts used in the repair and the quality of the work.


Make sure the repair facility uses genuine Honda replacement body parts. Some companies make sheet metal pieces that seem to duplicate the original Honda body parts, but are actually inferior in fit, finish, and corrosion resistance. Once installed, they do not give the same high- quality appearance.


When reporting your collision to the insurance company, tell them you want genuine Honda parts used in the repair. Although most insurers recognize the quality of original parts, some may try to specify that the repairs be done with other available parts. You should investi- gate this before any repairs have begun.


Take your car to your authorized Honda dealer for inspection after the repairs are completed. Your dealer can make sure that quality materials were used, and that corrosion- preventive coatings were applied to all repaired and replaced parts.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Taking Care of the Unexpected


This section covers the more- common problems that motorists experience with their vehicles. It gives you information about how to safely evaluate the problem and what to do to correct it. If the problem has stranded you on the side of the road, you may be able to get going again. If not, you will also find instructions on getting your car towed.


Compact Spare Tire....................... 294
Changing a Flat Tire ..................... 295
If Your Engine Won't Start........... 301


Nothing Happens or the Starter Motor Operates Very Slowly............................. 301


The Starter Operates


Normally................................. 302
Jump Starting................................. 303
If Your Engine Overheats............. 306
Low Oil Pressure Indicator.......... 309
Charging System Indicator........... 310
Malfunction Indicator Lamp........ 311
Readiness Codes........................ 312
Brake System Indicator................ 313
Closing the Moonroof................... 314
Fuses............................................... 315
Checking and Replacing........... 316
Emergency Towing....................... 320


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main Menust Compact Spare Tire


Your car has a compact spare tire that takes up less space. Use this spare tire as a temporary replace- ment only. Get your regular tire repaired or replaced and put it back on your car as soon as you can.


Check the inflation pressure of the compact spare tire every time you check the other tires. It should be inflated to: 60 psi (420 kPa , 4.2 kgf/cm2)


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Follow these precautions whenever you are using the compact spare tire:


INDICATOR LOCATION MARK


Do not exceed 50 mph (80 km/h) under any circumstances.


This tire gives a harsher ride and less traction on some road sur- faces than the regular tire. Use greater caution while driving on this tire.


Do not mount snow chains on the compact spare.


The wheel of the compact spare tire is designed especially to fit your car. Do not use your spare tire on another vehicle unless it is the same make and model.


On all V6 models


Turn off the Traction Control System (see page 203). Driving with the compact spare tire may activate the TCS.


TREAD WEAR INDICATOR BAR


The compact spare tire has a shorter tread life than a regular tire. Replace it when you can see the tread wear indicator bars. The replacement should be the same size and design tire, mounted on the same wheel. The compact spare tire is not designed to be mounted on a regular wheel, and the compact wheel is not designed for mounting a regular tire.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If you have a flat tire while driving, stop in a safe place to change it. Stopping in traffic or on the shoulder of a busy road is dangerous. Drive slowly along the shoulder until you get to an exit or an area to stop that is far away from the traffic lanes.


1. Park the car on firm, level and non-slippery ground away from traffic. Put the transmission in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). Apply the parking brake. If you are towing a trailer, unhitch the trailer.


2. Turn on the hazard warning lights


and turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Have all the passengers get out of the car while you change the tire.


The car can easily roll off the jack, seriously injuring anyone underneath.


Follow the directions for changing a tire exactly, and never get under the car when it is supported only by the jack.


Changing a Flat Tire


TRUNK FLOOR


TOOL KIT


SPARE TIRE


JACK


3. Open the trunk. Raise the trunk


floor by lifting up on the back edge.


4. The tools are in the tool box on


the right side of the trunk. Take the tools out of the tool box.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst JACK


WHEEL NUTS


7. Turn the jack's end bracket


counterclockwise to loosen it, then remove the jack.


WHEEL WRENCH


8. Loosen the wheel nuts (four for


the 4-cylinder models, five for the V-6 models) 1/2 turn with the wheel wrench.


Changing a Flat Tire


COVER


5. Unscrew the wing bolt and take


the spare tire out of its well.


6. The jack is behind a cover in the


right fender. Remove the cover by turning the handle counterclock- wise, then pulling on the cover.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


EXTENSION


JACKING POINT


WHEEL WRENCH


9. Locate the jacking point nearest the tire you need to change. It is pointed to by a mark molded into the underside of the body. Place the jack under the jacking point. Turn the end bracket clockwise until the top of the jack contacts the jacking point. Make sure the jacking point tab is resting in the jack notch.


10. Use the extension and wheel wrench as shown to raise the vehicle until the flat tire is off the ground.


11. Remove the wheel nuts and flat


tire. Temporarily place the flat tire on the ground with the outside surface of the wheel facing up. You could scratch the wheel if you put it face down.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


WHEEL COVER


WHEEL NUTS


BRAKE HUB


On LX and LX-V6 models Do not attempt to forcibly pry the wheel cover off with a screwdriver or other tool. The wheel cover cannot be removed without first removing the wheel nuts.


12.Before mounting the spare tire, wipe any dirt off the mounting surface of the wheel and hub with a clean cloth. Wipe the hub carefully, it may be hot from driving.


13.Put on the spare tire. Put the


wheel nuts back on finger-tight, then tighten them in a crisscross pattern with the wheel wrench until the wheel is firmly against the hub. Do not try to tighten them fully.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


14. Lower the car to the ground and


remove the jack.


4-cylinder models


6 cylinder models


15.Tighten the wheel nuts securely in the same crisscross pattern. Have the wheel nut torque checked at the nearest automotive service facility. Tighten the wheel nuts to: 80 lbf.ft (108 N.m, 11 kgf.m)


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


WING BOLT


SPACER CONE


20.Store the jack in its holder. Turn


the jack's end bracket to lock it in place. Replace the cover. Store the tools.


CENTER CAP


16.On EX and EX-V6 models


Remove the center cap before storing the flat tire in the trunk well.


17. Place the flat tire face down in the


spare tire well.


18. Remove the spacer cone from the wing bolt, turn it over, and put it back on the bolt.


19. Secure the flat tire by screwing the wing bolt back into its hole.


Loose items can fly around the interior in a crash and could seriously injure the occupants.


Store the wheel, jack and tools securely before driving.


21.Store the wheel cover or center


cap in the trunk. Make sure it does not get scratched or damaged.


22.Lower the trunk floor, then close


the trunk lid.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Diagnosing why your engine won't start falls into two areas, depending on what you hear when you turn the key to START (III):


You hear nothing, or almost nothing. The engine's starter motor does not operate at all, or operates very slowly.


You can hear the starter motor operating normally, or the starter motor sounds like it is spinning faster than normal, but the engine does not start up and run.


Nothing Happens or the Starter Motor Operates Very Slowly When you turn the ignition switch to START (III), you do not hear the normal noise of the engine trying to start. You may hear a clicking sound or series of clicks, or nothing at all. Check these things:


Check the transmission interlock. If you have a manual transmission, the clutch pedal must be pushed all the way to the floor or the starter will not operate. With an automatic transmission, it must be in Park or Neutral.


Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the headlights and check their brightness. If the headlights are very dim or don't light at all, the battery is discharged. See Jump Starting on page 303 .


If Your Engine Won't Start


Turn the ignition switch to START (III). If the headlights do not dim, check the condition of the fuses. If the fuses are OK, there is proba- bly something wrong with the electrical circuit for the ignition switch or starter motor. You will need a qualified technician to determine the problem. (See Emergency Towing on page 320.)


If the headlights dim noticeably or go out when you try to start the engine, either the battery is dis- charged or the connections are corroded. Check the condition of the battery and terminal connec- tions (see page 256). You can then try jump starting the car from a booster battery (see page 303).


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If you find nothing wrong, you will need a qualified technician to find the problem. See Emergency Towing on page 320 .


Do you have fuel? Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) for a minute and watch the fuel gauge. The low fuel level warning light may not be working, so you were not reminded to fill the tank.


There may be an electrical problem, such as no power to the fuel pump. Check all the fuses (see page 315).


If Your Engine Won't Start


The Starter Operates Normally In this case, the starter motor's speed sounds normal, or even faster than normal, when you turn the ignition switch to START (III), but the engine does not run.


Your car has the Immobilizer System. You should use a properly-coded master or valet key to start the engine (see page 78). A key that is not properly coded will cause the immobilizer system indicator in the dash panel to blink rapidly.


Are you using the proper starting procedure? Refer to Starting the Engine on page 189.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If your car's battery has run down, you may be able to start the engine by using a booster battery. Although this seems like a simple procedure, you should take several precautions.


A battery can explode if you do not follow the correct procedure, seriously injuring anyone nearby.


Keep all sparks, open flames, and smoking materials away from the battery.


You cannot start a Honda with an automatic transmission by pushing or pulling it.


To jump start your car, follow these directions closely:


1. Open the hood and check the


physical condition of the battery (see page 256). In very cold weather, check the condition of the electrolyte. If it seems slushy or like ice, do not try jump starting until it thaws.


NOTICE


If a battery sits in extreme cold, the electrolyte inside can freeze. Attempting to jump start with a frozen battery can cause it to rupture.


2. Turn off all the electrical acces-


sories: heater, A/C, climate control, stereo system, lights, etc. Put the transmission in Neutral or Park and set the parking brake.


Jump Starting


4 cylinder models 3. Connect one jumper cable to the


positive ( + ) terminal on your Honda's battery. Connect the other end to the positive ( +) terminal on the booster battery.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Jump Starting


6-cylinder models


4-cylinder models


6-cylinder models


4. Connect the second jumper cable


to the negative (—) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the grounding strap as shown. Do not connect this jumper cable to any other part of the engine.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst 4-cylinder models


BOOSTER BATTERY


6-cylinder models


BOOSTER BATTERY


5. If the booster battery is in another


vehicle, have an assistant start that vehicle and run it at a fast idle.


The numbers in the illustration show you the order to connect the jumper cables. Make sure to disconnect the cables in the reverse order.


6. Start your car. If the starter motor


still operates slowly, check the jumper cable connections to make sure they have good metal-to- metal contact.


Jump Starting


7. Once your car is running, discon- nect the negative cable from your car, then from the booster battery. Disconnect the positive cable from your car, then the booster battery.


Keep the ends of the jumper cables away from each other and any metal on the vehicle until all are disconnected. Otherwise, you may cause an electrical short.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Your car can overheat for several reasons, such as lack of coolant or a mechanical problem. The only indication may be the temperature gauge climbing to or above the red mark. Or you may see steam or spray coming from under the hood. In either case, you should take immediate action.


1. Safely pull to the side of the road. Put the transmission in Neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Turn off the heating and cooling/ climate control system and all other accessories. Turn on the hazard warning indicators.


2. If you see steam and/or spray


coming from under the hood, turn off the engine.


Steam and spray from an overheated engine can seriously scald you.


Do not open the hood if steam is coming out.


If Your Engine Overheats


The pointer of your car's tempera- ture gauge should stay in the mid- range under most conditions. It may go higher if you are driving up a long steep hill on a very hot day. If it climbs to the red mark, you should determine the reason.


NOTICE


Driving with the temperature gauge pointer at the red mark can cause serious damage to your engine.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst 3. If you do not see steam or spray,


leave the engine running and watch the temperature gauge. If the high heat is due to overloading (climbing a long, steep hill on a hot day with the A/C running, for example), the engine should start to cool down almost immediately. If it does, wait until the tempera- ture gauge comes down to the mid- point then continue driving.


4. If the temperature gauge stays at the red mark, turn off the engine.


5. Wait until you see no more signs of steam or spray, then open the hood.


6. Look for any obvious coolant leaks,


such as a split radiator hose. Everything is still extremely hot, so use caution. If you find a leak, it must be repaired before you continue driving (see Emergency Towing on page 320).


7. If you don't find an obvious leak,


check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank (see page 180 ). If the level is below the MIN mark, add coolant to halfway between the MIN and MAX marks.


If Your Engine Overheats


8. If there was no coolant in the


reserve tank, you may also have to add coolant to the radiator. Let the engine cool down until the pointer reaches the middle of the tempera- ture gauge, or lower, before check- ing the radiator.


Removing the radiator cap while the engine is hot can cause the coolant to spray out, seriously scalding you.


Always let the engine and radiator cool down before removing the radiator cap.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If Your Engine Overheats


9. Using gloves or a large heavy


cloth, turn the radiator cap counterclockwise, without pushing down, to the first stop. This releases any remaining pressure in the cooling system. After the pressure releases, push down on the cap and turn it until it comes off.


10.Start the engine and set the temperature control dial to maximum (climate control to FULL AUTO at 90°F/32°C). Add coolant to the radiator up to the base of the filler neck. If you do not have the proper coolant mixture available, you can add plain water. Remember to have the cooling system drained and refilled with the proper mixture as soon as you can.


11. Put the radiator cap back on


tightly. Run the engine and watch the temperature gauge. If it goes back to the red mark, the engine needs repair. (See Emergency Towing on page 320 .)


12.If the temperature stays normal,


check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank. If it has gone down, add coolant to the MAX mark. Put the cap back on tightly.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst LOW OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR


NOTICE


Running the engine with low oil pressure can cause serious mechanical damage almost immediately. Turn off the engine as soon as you can safely get the car stopped.


1. Safely pull off the road and shut


off the engine. Turn on the hazard warning indicators.


2. Let the car sit for a minute. Open the hood and check the oil level (see page 178 ). Although oil level and oil pressure are not directly connected, an engine that is very low on oil can lose pressure during cornering and other driving maneuvers.


3. If necessary, add oil to bring the level back to the full mark on the dipstick (see page 230 ).


This indicator should light when the ignition switch is ON (II), and go out after the engine starts. It should never come on when the engine is running. If it starts flashing, it indicates that the oil pressure dropped very low for a moment, then recovered. If the indicator stays on with the engine running, it shows that the engine has lost oil pressure and serious engine damage is possible. In either case, you should take immediate action.


Low Oil Pressure Indicator


4. Start the engine and watch the oil


pressure indicator. If the light does not go out within ten seconds, turn off the engine. There is a mechanical problem that needs to be repaired before you can continue driving. (See Emergency Towing on page 320 .)


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Immediately turn off all electrical accessories: radio, heater, A/C, climate control, rear defogger, cruise control, etc. Try not to use other electrically-operated controls such as the power windows. Keep the engine running and take extra care not to stall it. Starting the engine will discharge the battery rapidly.


By eliminating as much of the electrical load as possible, you can drive several miles (kilometers) before the battery is too discharged to keep the engine running. Drive to a service station or garage where you can get technical assistance.


Charging System Indicator


CHARGING SYSTEM INDICATOR


This indicator should come on when the ignition switch is ON (II), and go out after the engine starts. If it comes on brightly when the engine is running, it indicates that the charging system has stopped charging the battery.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP


Except V-6 and 4-cylinder ULEV cars This indicator comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch ON (II). If it comes on at any other time, it indicates one of the engine's emissions control systems may have a problem. Even though you may feel no difference in your car's performance, it can reduce your fuel economy and cause your car to put out excessive emissions. Continued operation may cause serious damage.


V-6 and 4 -cylinder ULEV cars This indicator should light when the ignition switch is ON (II), and go out after the engine starts. If it comes on at any other time, it indicates one of the engine's emissions control systems may have a problem. Even though you may feel no difference in your car's performance, it can reduce your fuel economy and cause your car to put out excessive emissions. Continued operation may cause serious damage.


If you have recently refueled your car, the cause of this indicator coming on could be a loose or missing fuel fill cap. Check the cap and tighten it until it clicks several times. Replace the fuel fill cap if it is missing. Tightening the cap will not make the indicator turn off immediately; it takes at least three driving trips.


Malfunction Indicator Lamp


If the indicator remains on past three driving trips, or the fuel cap was not loose or missing, have the car checked by the dealer as soon as possible. Drive moderately until the dealer has inspected the problem. Avoid full-throttle acceleration and driving at high speed.


You should also have the dealer inspect your car if this indicator comes on repeatedly, even though it may turn off as you continue driving.


NOTICE


If you keep driving with the malfunction indicator lamp on, you can damage your car's emissions controls and engine. Those repairs may not be covered by your car's warranties.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Malfunction Indicator Lamp


Readiness Codes Your car has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set. If they are not set, the test cannot be completed.


If your car's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, these codes are erased. It takes several days of driving under various conditions to set the codes again.


If possible, do not take your car for a state emissions test until the readiness codes are set. See State Emissions Testing on page 337.


For 4-cylinder ULEV and V-6 models To check if they are set, turn the ignition ON (II), but do not start the engine. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp will come on for 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are set. If it blinks 5 times, the readiness codes are not set.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst BRAKE SYSTEM INDICATOR*


* U.S. indicator shown


The Brake System Indicator normally comes on when you turn the ignition switch ON (II). It is a reminder to check the parking brake. It comes on and stays lit if you do not fully release the parking brake.


If it comes on at any other time, it indicates a problem with the car's brake system. In most cases, the problem is a low fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir. Press lightly on the brake pedal to see if it feels normal. If it does, check the brake fluid level the next time you stop at a service station (see page 246). If the fluid level is low, take the car to your dealer and have the brake system inspected for leaks or worn brake pads.


However, if the brake pedal does not feel normal, you should take immediate action. Because of the brake system's dual-circuit design, a problem in one part of the system will still give you braking at two wheels. You will feel the brake pedal go down much farther before the car begins to slow down, and you will have to press harder on the pedal. The distance needed to stop will be much longer.


Brake System Indicator


Slow down by shifting to a lower gear, and pull to the side of the road when it is safe. Because of the longer distance needed to stop, it is hazardous to drive the car. You should have it towed, and repaired as soon as possible. (See Emergency Towing on page 320.)


If you must drive the car a short distance in this condition, drive slowly and cautiously.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Closing the Moonroof


If the electric motor will not close the moonroof, do the following:


1. Check the fuse for the moonroof motor (see page 315). If the fuse is blown, replace it with one of the same or lower rating.


2. Try closing the moonroof. If the


new fuse blows immediately or the moonroof motor still does not operate, you can close the moonroof manually.


3. Get the moonroof wrench out of


the tool kit in the trunk.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


ROUND PLUG


SOCKET


4. Use a screwdriver or coin to remove the round plug in the center of the headliner.


5. Insert the moonroof wrench into the socket behind this plug. Turn the wrench until the moonroof is fully closed.


6. Remove the wrench. Replace the


round plug.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst All the electrical circuits in your car have fuses to protect them from a short circuit or overload. These fuses are located in three fuse boxes.


INTERIOR


UNDER-HOOD


TAB


Fuses


COVER


The interior fuse boxes are located on each side of the dashboard. To open an interior fuse box, open the car door. Pull the cover open, then take it out of its hinges by pulling it toward you.


The under-hood fuse box is located in the back of the engine compart- ment on the passenger's side. To open it, push the tabs as shown.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Fuses


Checking and Replacing Fuses If something electrical in your car stops working, the first thing you should check for is a blown fuse. Determine from the chart on pages 318 and 319 , or the diagram on the fuse box lid, which fuse or fuses control that component. Check those fuses first, but check all the fuses before deciding that a blown fuse is not the cause. Replace any blown fuses and check the component's operation.


1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Make sure the headlights and all other accessories are off.


2. Remove the cover from the fuse


box.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


FUSE


BLOWN


FUSE PULLER


3. Check each of the large fuses in


the under-hood fuse box by looking through the top at the wire inside. Removing these fuses requires a Phillips-head screw- driver.


4. Check the smaller fuses in the under-hood fuse box and all the fuses in the interior fuse boxes by pulling out each fuse with the fuse puller provided in the under-hood fuse box.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst BLOWN


5. Look for a burned wire inside the fuse. If it is burned, replace it with one of the spare fuses of the same rating or lower.


If you cannot drive the car without fixing the problem, and you do not have a spare fuse, take a fuse of the same rating or a lower rating from one of the other circuits. Make sure you can do without that circuit temporarily (such as the accessory power socket or radio).


If you replace the blown fuse with a spare fuse that has a lower rating, it might blow out again. This does not indicate anything wrong. Replace the fuse with one of the correct rating as soon as you can.


NOTICE


Replacing a fuse with one that has a higher rating greatly increases the chances of damaging the electrical system. If you do not have a replace- ment fuse with the proper rating for the circuit, install one with a lower rating.


Fuses


6. If the replacement fuse of the


same rating blows in a short time, there is probably a serious electrical problem in your car. Leave the blown fuse in that circuit and have your car checked by a qualified mechanic.


On EX and EX-V6 models If the radio fuse is removed, the audio system will disable itself. The next time you turn on the radio you will see in the frequency display. Use the Preset buttons to enter the five-digit code (see page 171).


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Fuses


INTERIOR FUSE BOX Driver's Side


Front


Passenger's Side


Front


* : On Canadian models


Taking Care of the Unexpected


* 1 : EX, EX-V6
* 2 : LX-V6, EX, EX-V6
* 3 : Canadian models * 4 : U.S. models except LX


Main MenuTable of Contentsst UNDER-HOOD FUSE BOX


Fuses


* 1 : EX-V6 in Canada * 2 : EX, V6 models * 3 : V6 models * 4 : Canadian EX and EX-V6 models


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Emergency Towing


If your car needs to be towed, call a professional towing service or, if you belong to one, an organization that provides roadside assistance. Never tow your car behind another vehicle with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous.


There are three popular types of professional towing equipment.


Flat-bed Equipment — The operator loads your car on the back of a truck. This is the best way to transport your Honda.


Wheel-lift Equipment — The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear) and lift them off the ground. The other two tires remain on the ground. This is an acceptable way to tow your Honda.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Sling-type Equipment — The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension and the cables lift that end of the car off the ground. Your car's suspension and body can be seriously damaged. This method of towing is unacceptable.


If your Honda cannot be transported by flat-bed, it should be towed by wheel-lift equipment with the front wheels off the ground. If due to damage, your car must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, do the following:


NOTICE


Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine (automatic transmission), your car must be transported with the front wheels off the ground.


With the front wheels on the ground, it is best to tow the car no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55 km/h).


5-speed Manual Transmission


Release the parking brake. Shift the transmission to Neutral.


Automatic Transmission


Release the parking brake. Start the engine. Shift to D4, then to N. Turn off the engine.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst NOTICE


Trying to lift or tow your car by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not designed to support the car's weight.


If you decide to tow your car with all four wheels on the ground, make sure you use a properly-designed and attached tow bar. Prepare the car for towing as described above, and leave the ignition switch in Accessory (I) so the steering wheel does not lock. Make sure the radio and any items plugged into the accessory power socket are turned off so they do not run down the battery.


NOTICE


The steering system can be damaged if the steering wheel is locked. Leave the ignition switch in Accessory (I), and make sure the steering wheel turns freely before you begin towing.


Emergency Towing


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst The diagrams in this section give you the dimensions and capacities of your Honda, and the locations of the identification numbers. It also includes information you should know about your vehicle's tires and emissions control systems.


Identification Numbers................. 324
Specifications


(4-cylinder Models)................... 326


Specifications


(6-cylinder Models)................... 328


DOT Tire Quality Grading


(U.S. Cars).............................. 330
Treadwear.................................. 330
Traction — AA, A, B, C ............ 330
Temperature — A, B, C............ 331
Oxygenated Fuels.......................... 332
Driving in Foreign Countries....... 333


Technical Information


Emissions Controls........................ 334
The Clean Air Act...................... 334
Crankcase Emissions Control


System.................................... 334


Evaporative Emissions Control


System.................................... 334


Onboard Refueling Vapor


Recovery................................. 334
Exhaust Emissions Controls.... 335
PGM-FI System..................... 335
Ignition Timing Control


System................................. 335


Exhaust Gas Recirculation


(EGR) System.................... 335


Three Way Catalytic


Converter............................ 335
Replacement Parts..................... 335
Three Way Catalytic Converter... 336
State Emissions Testing............... 337


Technical Information


Main Menust Identification Numbers


Your car has several identifying numbers located in various places.


The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is the 17-digit number your Honda dealer uses to register your car for warranty purposes. It is also necessary for licensing and insuring your car. The easiest place to find the VIN is on a plate fastened to the top of the dashboard. You can see it by looking through the windshield on the driver's side. It is also on the Certification label attached to the driver's doorjamb, and is stamped on the engine compartment bulkhead. The VIN is also provided in bar code on the Certification label.


Technical Information


VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER


CERTIFICATION LABEL


Main MenuTable of Contentsst The Engine Number is stamped into the engine block. It is on the front.


4-cylinder Models


AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION NUMBER


The Transmission Number is on a label on top of the transmission.


Identification Numbers


MANUAL TRANSMISSION NUMBER


6-cylinder Models


ENGINE NUMBER


ENGINE NUMBER


AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION NUMBER


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Specifications (4-cylinder Models)


Technical Information


* 2 : Excluding the oil remaining in the engine.


* 1 : Including the coolant in the reserve tank and that remaining in the


engine. Reserve tank capacity: 0.16 US gal (0.6


,0.13 Imp gal)


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Specifications (4-cylinder Models)


page 252


Technical Information


page 318


page 319


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Specifications (6-cylinder Models)


* 1 : Including the coolant in the reserve tank and that remaining in the


engine. Reserve tank capacity: 0.16 US gal (0.6


, 0.13 Imp gal)


* 2 : Excluding the oil remaining in the engine.


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Specifications (6-cylinder Models)


page 255


Technical Information


page 318


page 319


* 1 : EX-V6
* 2 : LX-V6


Main MenuTable of Contentsst DOT Tire Quality Grading (U.S. Cars)


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a compara- tive rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and one- half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual condi- tions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.


Traction - AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.


Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


The tires on your car meet all U.S. Federal Safety Requirements. All tires are also graded for treadwear, traction, and temperature perform- ance according to Department of Transportation (DOT) standards. The following explains these gradings. Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between the tread shoulder and the maximum section width. For example:


Treadwear 200
Traction AA Temperature A


DOT Quality Grades All passenger car tires must conform to Federal Safety Requirements in addition to these grades.


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst DOT Tire Quality Grading (U.S. Cars)


Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not over- loaded. Excessive speed, underinfla- tion, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


Temperature — A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The

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