1994 GMC Sierra Owners Manual

1. If you're parked on a level surface, add at least two gallons of fuel.

However, if you're parked on a slope, you may need to add up to five gallons of fuel.

2. With the air bleed valve open, turn your ignition key to "Start"

for 10

to 15 seconds to crank (but not start) your engine. Wait one minute between intervals of cranking to allow the starter motor to cool. Overheating the starter could damage it. Keep doing this until you can just see some clear fuel at the air bleed valve. (If, during this step, the engine starts, turn the ignition off and close the valve before restart.)

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A CAUTION:

Diesel fuel is flammable. It could start a fire if it gets on hot engine parts. You could be burned. Don’t let too much fuel flow from the air bleed valve, and wipe up any spilled fuel with a cloth.

3. Close the air bleed valve. 4. Turn the ignition key to “Start” for 10 to 15 seconds at a time until your

engine starts.

Fuel Filter Replacement (Diesel Engines) If you want to change the fuel filter yourself, here’s how to do it: Before you remove the filter, drain any water that may have collected in the fuel filter or filter head. See “Water in Fuel” earlier in this section to find out how to remove water from the fuel system. Then, drain fuel from the filter by opening the air bleed valve and the water drain valve. This prevents the fuel from spilling as you replace the filter. Drain the fuel into a fuel-resistant container and dispose of it properly.

A CAUTION:

Diesel fuel is flammable. It could start a fire if something ignites it, and you could be burned. Don’t let it get on hot engine parts, and keep matches or other ignition sources away.

I . Turn off the engine and apply the parking brake. 2. Take off the fuel tank cap. This releases vacuum in the tank. 3. The filter is located at the rear of the intake manifold.

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4. Unscrew and

remove the ring nut from the top of the filter head.

5. Lift the element out of the filter head.

6. If there is any dirt

on the element sealing surface of the filter head, clean it off.

7. Line up the

writing on the top of the filter so it faces (is readable from) the front of the vehicle. Push the element in until the mating surfaces touch.

8. With the air bleed valve open, turn your ignition key to START for 10

to 15 seconds. Wait one minute for your starter to cool. Do this until you can see clear fuel coming from

the air bleed valve.

9. Close the air bleed valve and replace the fuel cap. 10. Start your engine and let it idle for five minutes. Check your fuel filter

and air bleed valve for leaks.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation, North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7 Filling Your Tank

The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle.

/i\ CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns vioIently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from gasoline.

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While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear a clicking noise.

I NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not €it or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

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Checking Things Under the Hood Iood Release

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle.

Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the secondary hood release, located just to the passenger side of the center of the grill. Lift the hood.

Your vehicle, if it has air conditioning, may have a auxiliary engine fan in addition to the belt driven fan.

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Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline or diesel fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or

I spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly. Cleaning Your Diesel Engine

NOTICE: If you spray or pour water or any other liquid on your engine when it is warm or hot, or when it is running, you could cause serious damage to it. If you ever clean the engine, clean it only when it is cold.

Noise Control System The following information relates to compliance with Federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 pounds (4 536 kilograms). The Maintenance Schedule booklet provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your Warranty hooklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States.

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Tampering With Noise Control System Prohibited Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof:

1 . The removal or rendering inoperative by any person, other than for

purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or

2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element of design has been

removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation:

Removal of noise shields or underhood insulation.

Engine:

Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if so equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.

Fan and Drive:

Removal of fan clutch (if so equipped) or rendering clutch inoperative. Removal of fan shroud (if so equipped).

Air Intake:

Removal of air cleaner silencer. Reversing air cleaner cover.

Exhaust:

Removal of muffler and/or resonator. Removal of exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe clamps.

Engine Oil (Except Diesel) It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

To Check Engine Oil

Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip lower. When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

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The engine oil filler cap is located on the driver’s side engine valve cover.

Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Oil to Use Beginning midyear 1993, oils of the proper quality for your vehicle will be identified with this new “starburst” symbol. The “starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is preferred for use in your gasoline engine.

YOU should look for this on the front of the oil container, and use only oils that display this new symbol.

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You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart: LIGHT DUTY EMISSIONS -GAS ENGINES

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

LOOK

ONE OF THESE

LABELS

-1

HOT

WEATHER

tlOO -

t 38

+ 8 0 -

t 27

+ 6 0 - + 4 0 - +20 -

t 16

t 4

- 7

0 -

- 18

--

-I SAE 1OW-30

5w-30 PREFERRED

IF NEITHER SAE 5W-30 NOR SAE 1OW-30 GRADE OILS ARE AVAILABLE, SAE GRADE MAY BE USED AT TEMPERATURES ABOVE 40 DEGREES F (4 DEGREES C). DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

2OW-50 OR

30

As shown in the chart, SAE SW-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (-1 8°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE lOW-40 or SAE 20W-50.

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HEAVY DUTY EMISSIONS -GAS ENGINES

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

ONE OF THESE

LOOK FOR LABELS

HOT

WEATHER “F +loo - - +3a +80 - - +27

O C

+60 - - + 1 6

+ 4 0 - - + 4

+ 2 0 - - - 7

0 - - - 1 8

SAE 1OW-30 PREFERRED above 0°F

(-1 SOC)

I SAE

5W-30

COLD

WEATHER

IF NEITHER SAE 5W-30 NOR SAE 1OW-30 GRADE OILS ARE AVAILABLE, SAE 30 GRADE MAY BE USED AT TEMPERATURES ABOVE 40 DEGREES F (4 DEGREES C). DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 1OW-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it’s going to be colder than 60°F (16°C) before your next oil change. When it’s very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE low40 or SAE 20W-50.

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If you cannot find oils with the new “starburst” symbol on the front of the container, you should look for and use oils containing the following three things:

SHor SG “SH” or “SG” must be on the oil container, either by itself or combined with other quality designations, such as “SH/CD,” “SH,SG,CD,” “SG/CD,” etc. These letters show American Petroleum Institute (API) levels of quality.

0 SAE 5W-30 -Vehicles with Light Duty Emissions (SSOO GVWR or

less) OR SAE 1 OW-30 -Vehicles with Heavy Duty Emissions (850 1 GVWR or more).

0 Energy Conserving I1

Oils with these words on the container will help you save fuel.

These three things are usually included in a doughnut shaped logo (symbol) on most containers. If you cannot find oils with the “starburst” symbol, you should look for oils with the doughnut shaped symbol, containing the three things noted above.

NOTICE: If you use oils that do not have either the “starburst” symbol or an API SH or SG designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets a l l the requirements for your vehicle.

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Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.

When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km). It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than 10 miles (16 km). The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door-to-door delivery, or in stop-and-go You tow a trailer often. Most trips are through dusty places. The vehicle is frequently operated off-road.

traffic).

If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and-filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first. Light Duty Emissions: If none of them is true, change the oil every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change and at every other oil change after that. Heavy Duty Emissions: If none of them is true, change the oil every 6,000 miles (10 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change and at every other oil change after that if mileage determines when you change your oil. If time determines when you change your oil, change the filter each time you change your oil.

Engine Coolant Heater (Engine Block Heater) An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0°F (- 18°C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater ” in the Index.

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What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don't let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer's warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure t.o drain all free-tlowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don't ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. Engine Oil (Diesel Engines) It's a good idea to check your engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don't, the oil dipstick might not show-the actual level.

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To Check Engine Oil

Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip lower.

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

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The engine oil filler cap is located on a filler tube at the front of the engine.

Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Oil to Use Look for these two things:

C F 4 S H C F 4 S H is the best oil for your vehicle. However, if you can not find CF4/SH oil, you may use CF-4/SG or CE/SH or CE/SG oil. These may be listed as shown or in reverse order, for example SHEF-4. Other letters may also be listed, such as SH/CD, CE, CF-4. These letters show American Petroleum Institute (API) levels of quality.

NOTICE: If you use oils that don’t have these designations, you can cause engine damage which is not covered by your warranty.

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DIESEL ENGINES

RECOMMENDHI SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

ON SELECT THE SAE GRADE OIL BASED THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE

BEFORE NEXT OIL CHANGE

30 I SAE

HOT

WEATHER ;F

k 100

+60 - - + 1 6

+32 - - 0 0 -- -18 -20 - -29

COLD

WEATHER

---I ---I

SAE 15W-40 PREFERRED above 0°F (- 18%)

SAE low* 830

DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

SAE 15W-40 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 15W-40 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be colder than 32°F (0°C) before your next oil change. When it’s very cold, below 0°F (-I 8OC), you should use SAE 1,0W-30 to improve cold starting. Also, SAE 30 may be used at temperatures above freezing, 32°F (0°C). These numbers on the oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 10W-40 or SAE 2OW-50.

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This doughnut-shaped logo (symbol) is used on most oil containers to help you select the correct oil. You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that display the logo. GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

0 Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km). 0 It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than 10 miles

(16 km).

0 The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door-to-door

delivery, or in stop-and-go traffic).

0 You tow a trailer often. 0 Most trips are through dusty places.

The vehicle is frequently operated off-road.

If any of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 2,500 miles (4 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles (8 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer‘? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Air Cleaner

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

NOTICE: If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

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.-. - 1 To remove the air cleaner filter on a gas engine or a 6.5 liter naturally aspirated diesel, turn the wing nuts to the left. Remove the cover and change the filter.

Then, unhook the cover retaining clips and push the rear of the cover toward the engine.

Automatic Transmission Nuid

When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose t o have this done at a GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be SLIK to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

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I NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).

At high speed for quite a while.

0 In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.

While pulling a trailer.

IU get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). To check trunsmissioltfluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (1 0°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), drive the vehicle in “D” (3rd Gear) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures. To check trmzsnzissiorz jZuid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F ( 10°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

To check the fluid hot or cold

Park your vehicle on a level place. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in “P” (Park). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds position the shift lever in “ P ’ (Park). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

in each range. Then,

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Then, .without shutting ofithe engine, follow these steps:

1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all

the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides

of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level

is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the COLD area for a cold check or the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much tluid, generally less than a pint. Don’t overfill. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111 or DEXRON@-IIE, because fluids with that label are made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-Ill or DEXRON@-IIE is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Fluid

When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at a GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.

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Then, follow these steps:

I. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole. 3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If

the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. I . Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the

fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch in your vehicle is self-adjusting. A slight amount of play (1/4 inch to 1/2 inch) in the pedal is normal.

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When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid.

See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

How to check The proper fluid should be ridded if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place i n the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Hydraulic Clutch Grease Fitting If you have a five speed manual transmission with deep low (RPO MT8), a grease fitting is located on the clutch housing for lubricating the clutch fork ball stud. See your Maintenance Schedule for when to lubricate the clutch housing. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for the proper lubricant to use. Be sure not to over-fill because you could damage your clutch. Rear Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four- Wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication.

Transfer Case

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

Front Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” i n the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. If the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

If the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch ( 12 mm) below the filler plug hole.

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What to use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your vehicle will:

Give freezing protection down to -20 OF (-29”C), or -34°F (-37°C) in Canada and for vehicles with the cold climate option. Give boiling protection up to 258 OF ( 125 O C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean wuter (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 6038-M,” which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to “GM Specification 6038-M” with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

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I NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

Some conditions, such as air trapped in the cooling system, can affect the coolant level in the radiator. Check the coolant level when the engine is cold and follow the steps under “Adding Coolant” for the proper way to add coolant. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Adding Coolant -Gas Engines

The coolant recovery tank is located on the passenger side at the rear corner of the engine compartment.

To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at COLD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to HOT, or a little higher.

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To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tunk.

A CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

A CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Adding Coolant -Diesel Engines

The coolant surge tank is located on the passenger side at the rear corner of the engine compartment.

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To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be above the COLD mark.

If this light comes on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the surge tnnk, but only when the engine is cool. Open the air bleed valve on the thermostat housing to allow trapped air out of the system. Close the bleed valve when coolant begins to flow out.

I A CAUTION:

nrning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out: and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.

A CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

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Radiator Pressure Cap-Gas Engines

The radiator pressure cap must be tightly installed with the arrows on the cap lined up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

NOTICE: Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

Surge Tank Pressure Cap- Diesel Engines

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NOTICE: Your surge tank pressure cap is a unique 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap for use with surge tank cooling systems only. It must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the top tube of the coolant surge tank.

Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC" thermostat is recommended. Power Steering Fluid

NOTICE: Always turn the engine off before checking or adding power steering fluid. The power steering pump cap is close to the fan and other moving parts.

How To Check Power Steering Fluid

Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick.

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When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the FULL mark. When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be at the FULL COLD mark.

What to Add Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

NOTICE: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid to use the proper change, always use the proper fluid. Failure fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Hydro-Boost Brake System (Hydraulic Pump) The power steering pump is also used as the Hyrdo-boost pump. Refer to “Power Steering System” in this section when checking fluid level or adding tluid.

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Windshield Washer Fluid

To Add

Open the cap labeled “WASHER FLUID ONLY.” Add washer fluid until the bottle is full.

NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only 314 full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Master Cylinder

Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in your master cylinder might go down, The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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To Check Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the windows on the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid levels should be above “MIN.” If they aren’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the levels are above “MIN” and below the top of each window.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid - such as Delco Supreme ll@ (GM Part No.1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.

NOTICE:

Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. If you have a C 3500 HD model, it has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have serviced.

your vehicle

NOTICE: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. If you have rear drum brakes, they don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.

Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

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Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times.

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your vehicle does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in - be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change, for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Other Maintenance Hems

Front Suspension and Steering Linkage Your maintenance schedule will tell you how often to lubricate the fittings. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for the proper lubricant to use.

Front Wheel Bearings Your vehicle has front wheel bearings that must be cleaned and repacked. Your maintenance schedule will tell you how often this must be done.

Front Shock Absorbers The front shock absorbers of your vehicle do many things. They help the vehicle ride smoothly and also control the travel of the suspension system. When the shock absorbers are serviced, any replacement shock absorbers must be the same as the original equipment shock absorbers in both extended length and strength.

NOTICE: If you use shock absorbers that are not the same as the original shock absorbers, the shock absorbers or suspension system could be damaged.

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Wheel Nut Torque For vehicle with dual wheels, wnen the vehicle, wheel or Tasteners are new, have the torque set at the first 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (1 60, 1600 and 9600 km). Use the torque specified in the appropriate Specification Chart later in this section. Single Belt Accessory Drive If your new vehicle uses a serpentine belt, it is lighter and more durable than systems with several belts. The belt runs over or around the pulleys on the engine. A tensioner may be used to keep the belt tight at all times. The tensioner also makes replacing the belt easier. If you need to replace the belt, be sure to get the correct replacement belt. Your dealership or parts supplier can help you with this. The Accessory Drive belt Routing label on your vehicle will show you how to route the belt your vehicle uses. Windshield Wiper Blade Inserts

To replace the windshield wiper blade insert, lift the wiper arm and rotate the blade until it is facing away from the windshield.

Unlatch the end of the insert from the holding clips. Remove the insert and slide a new one in place. Make sure the blade is secured in the clips. Air Conditioning Every now and then have your dealership check your air conditioning system to be sure it has not lost any cooling ability. If you think the system is not working properly, have your dealership check it out as soon as possible. The air conditioning will not work when the temperature is below 40°F (4°C).

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Fluid Leak Check After the vehicle has been parked for a while, inspect the surface under the vehicle for water, oil, fuel or other fluids. Water dripping from the air conditioning system after it has been used is normal. If you notice fuel leaks or fumes, the causes should be found and corrected at once. Lubrication Accelerator Control System Your maintenance schedule will tell you how often the accelerator linkage pivot points must be lubricated. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Tndex for the proper lubricant to use. Accelerator cables and cruise control cables should not be lubricated. Any cab1e.s that are worn or are hard to pull should be replaced.

Hood Latches and Hood Hinge Your maintenance schedule will tell you how often to lubricate the hood latch and hood hinge assembly. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for the proper lubricant to use.

Propeller Shaft Slip Splines See your maintenance schedule to find out how often the. slip splines must be lubricated. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for the proper lubricant to use.

Constant Velocity Joints See your mamtenance schedule to find out how often the constant velocity joints must be lubricated. See “Recommended Flui-ds and Lubricants” in the Index for the proper lubricant to use.

Body Normal use of your vehicle will cause metal to metal wear at some points on the cab and body if they are not lubricated. For exposed surfaces, such as door checks, door lock bolts, lock striker plates, dovetail bumper wedges, etc., a thin film of engine oil should be applied. The seat adjusters and seat track should be lubricated with chassis grease. Door weather strips and rubber hood bumpers should be wiped clean with a rubber lubricant.

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Never use too much of any lubricant and be sure to wipe up any extra lubricant when you are finished. Your maintenance schedule will tell you how often to lubricant these items. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for the proper lubricant to use.

Lock Cylinders To be sure your locks operate properly, they must be lubricated. Your vehicle’s maintenance schedule will tell you how often to lubricate them. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for the proper lubricant to use. You should not use penetrating oils because they could wash out the factory installed lubricant and cause the lock to bind. De-icers which contain alcohol could also wash away the lubricant, so be sure to lubricate the lock after using a de-icer of this type.

Tailgate Handle The tailgate handle pivot points on your vehicle should be lubricated to keep the handle working smoothly. Your maintenance schedule will tell you how often to lubricant the handle. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for the proper lubricant to use. Battery Every new GM vehicle has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom@ battery. Get one that has the catalog number shown on the original battery’s label.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

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for longer storage

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle periods. Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lights are engine isn’t running. Sealed Beam Headlights

off and the

1. Remove the four screws from the headlight retainer. 2. Pull the headlight out and remove the retainer.

3.

4.

5.

Unplug and remove the headlight. Plug in the new headlight and put it in place. Install the retainer to the headlight and tighten the screws.

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Halogen Bulbs

NOTICE: Avoid touching the bulb or letting it come in contact with anything damp. Oil from your skin or moisture on the bulb can cause the bulb to explode when it is turned on. If either comes in contact with the bulb, clean it with alcohol or a suitable degreaser and wipe the bulb dry.

Composite Headlights

1.

2.

Remove the two screws at the top of the radiator support. Pull the headlight lens assembly out.

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3. Unplug the

electrical connector.

4. Turn the bulb to

the left and remove it.

5. Put the new bulb in the lens assembly and turn it to the right until it is

tight.

6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlight lens assembly back into the vehicle. Install and

tighten the two screws.

Front Parkingflurn Signal Lights with Sealed Beam Headlights 1. Remove the two screws at the inside edge of the parking/turn signal

light assembly.

2. Remove the light assembly by swinging it out from the inside edge and

sliding it out at the outside edge.

3. Squeeze the tab on the side of the light socket while turning the socket

to the left.

4. Pull the socket out of the light assembly. 5. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it to the left and remove it from the

socket.

6. Put the new bulb in the socket, gently press in on the bulb and turn it to

the right until it is tight.

7. Put the socket back into the light assembly and turn it to the right until

it locks.

8. Put the parking/turn signal light assembly back into the vehicle and

tighten the screws.

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Front Parkingnurn Signal Lights with Composite Headlights

I . Remove the

screws and take out the parkinghurn signal light assembly.

- 7

2. Squeeze the tab on the side of the light socket while turning the socket to the left.

3.

4.

Pull the socket out of the light assembly. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it to the left and remove it from the socket.

5. Put the new bulb in the socket, gently press in on the bulb and turn it to

the right until it is tight.

6. Put the socket back into the light assembly and turn it socket to the

right until it locks.

7. Put the parkinghrn signal light assembly back into the vehicle and

tighten the screws.

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Side Marker Lights with Sealed Beam and Composite Headhghts

1. Remove the

screws and pull out the parkinghrn signal light assembly.

2. Reach through the opening and turn the side marker bulb socket to the left and remove it.

3.

4.

Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight.

5. Put the socket back into the side marker assembly and turn it to the

right to tighten it.

6. Replace the parkinghurn signal light assembly and tighten the screws.

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Fender Marker Lights- Dual Rear Wheel Pickup Models

1.

Remove the screws and take the fender marker assembly out of the fender.

2.

3.

Turn the bulb socket to the left and remove it from the lens assembly. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket.

4. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight. 5. Put the socket back into the lens assembly and turn it to the right to

tighten it.

6. Replace the lens and tighten the screws.

Tailgate Marker Lights

Roof Marker Lights

4. Replace the lens and tighten the screws.

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1. Use a screwdriver to gently pry the lenshulb assembly from the lens holder.

2. Unplug the

lenshulb assembly at the connector wire.

3. Plug in a new

lensbulb assembly and push the connector wire into the hole in the tailgate.

4. Snap the lenshulb assembly into the lens holder.

1. Remove the

screws and lift off the lens.

2. Pull the bulb

straight out of the socket.

3. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight.

Cargo LighKenter High Mount Stoplamp (CHMSL)

1. Remove the

screws and lift off the lens.

2. Pull the old bulb straight out of the socket.

3. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight.

4. Replace the lens and tighten the screws.

1. Open the tailgate. 2. Remove the two

rear light assembly screws near the tailgate latch and pull out the light assembly.

Rear Lights - Pickup Models

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3. Remove the

screws from the bulb retainer and take it off the light assembly.

4. Pull the old bulb straight out of the socket.

5. Put in a new bulb

6. Replace the bulb

retainer.

7. Replace the rear light assembly and tighten the screws. 8. Close the tailgate. Rear Lights - Chassis Cab Models

:F

1 . Using your

hands. peel the rubber seal away from the lens.

2. Lift the lens off

the light assembly.

3 . Slide the socket out of the light assernbly.

I,.

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4. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it to the left and remove it from the socket.

5. Put in a new bulb

and, pushing in gently, turn it to the right until it is tight.

6. Put the socket back in the light assembly and replace the lens and lens

seal.

Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers, and fusible thermal links wiring itself. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index information.

for more

in the

Headlights The headlight wiring is protected by a circuit breaker in the light switch. electrical overload will cause the lights to flicker on and off, or cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlight wiring checked right away.

in some

An

Windshield Wipers fuse. If The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. Although the circuit is protected from electrical overload, overload due to heavy snow, etc., may cause .wiper linkage damage. Always clear ice and heavy snow from the the windshield before using the windshield wipers. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers in the fuse panel protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes. This protects the circuit until the current load returns to normal or the problem is fixed .

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Trailer Wiring Harness The optional seven-wire trailer wiring harness is protected by an in-line fuse in the battery feed wire. This fuse is near the junction block. See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index for more information.

Fuse Block

The fuse block is behind an access door at the bottom of the instrument panel, next to the parking brake release lever.

To remove fuses if you don’t have one, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out. Be, sure to use the correct fuse. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can “borrow” one of the correct value. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without-like the radio its fuse, if it is of the value you need. Replace or cigarette lighter--and use it as soon as you can. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers“ in the Index for more information.

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Exhaust System To help prevent damage to your exhaust system, do not continue to drive your vehicle if you notice:

Engine misfiring Loss of performance

0 Other unusual operating conditions

Have your engine and exhaust system serviced regularly.

Three- Way Catalytic Converter (gas engines) Your vehicle’s three-way catalytic converter is designed to reduce the pollutants in your vehicle’s exhaust. Use only unleaded fuel in your vehicle. If you use leaded fuel, you could damage your three-way catalytic converter and other engine components.

Three- Way Catalytic Converter (diesel engines) Your vehicle’s thre.e-way catalytic converter is designed to reduce the particulates in your vehicle’s exhaust. If your vehicles three-way catalytic converter ever needs to be replaced, it must be replaced with a three-way catalytic converter intended for use with diesel engines only.

Engine Control Module System (All TBI equipped vehicles and diesel engine vehicles below 8,500 Ibs. GVWR)

Gasoline Engines This system has an oxygen sensor (02 ) that helps keep your engine’s air-fuel mixture at a proper level. Use only unleaded fuel in your vehicle. If you use leaded fuel, you could damage your oxygen sensor (02) and three-way catalytic converter.

Diesel Vehicles Below 8,500 LBS. GVWR This system monitors engine speed and throttle position. It adjusts exhaust gas recirculation to limit emissions.

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Malfunction Indicator (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) Lamp The Malfunction Indicator (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) Lamp on your instrument panel lets you know when your emission system needs service. The light will come on briefly when you start your engine to let you know that the system is working. If it does not come on when you start your engine, or if it comes on and stays on while you’re driving, your system may need service. Your vehicle should still be driveable, but you should have your system serviced right away.

Secondary Air hjection Reaction (AIR) System You may have this system. It has a control valve that will direct air to where it is needed. If the AIR system needs service, your Malfunction Indicator (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) Lamp on your instrument panel will come on. Loading Your Vehicle

BlKG

The Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door or in the Incomplete Vehicle Document in the cab.

SEE OWNERS MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.

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A CAUTION:

In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things carried in the bed of your truck could shift forward and come into the passenger area, injuring you and others. If you put things in the bed of your truck, you should make sure they are properly secured.

A CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR or the maximum front and rear GAWRs. If you do, parts on your vehicle-can break, or it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control. Also, overloading can shorten the Iife of your vehicle.

Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.

NOTICE: Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

If you put things inside your vehicle-like anything else-they turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

suitcases, tools, packages, or go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or

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Trailering Package

If your vehicle comes with the Trailering Package, there is also a load rating which includes the weight of the vehicle and the trailer it tows. This rating is called the Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). When you weigh your trailer, be sure to include the weight of everything you put in it. And, remember to figure the weight of the people inside as part of your load. Your dealer can help you determine your GCWR.

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Add-on Equipment When you carry removable items, like snow plow blades, you may need to put a limit on how many people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment.

NOTICE: Your warranty doesn’t cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

Truck-Camper Loading Information Open your glove box door and look for this label:

This label will tell you how much of a load your vehicle can carry, and how to spread out your load the right way. Also, it will help you match the right slide-in camper to your vehicle. When you carry a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of your vehicle is the weight of the camper, plus

everything else added to the camper after it left the factory;

0 everything in the camper: and 0 all the people inside.

The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But, you can figure about 150 pounds for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle‘s CWR.

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TRUCK LOADING INFORMATION

I . Recommended

location for cargo center of gravity for cargo weight rating (Pickup Truck).

0 Refer to the Truck Camper Loading Information label in glove box for

“A”and “B” dimensions. Use the rear edge of the load floor for measurement purposes.

EXAMPLE OF PROPER TRUCK AND CAMPER MATCH

1 . Camper center of

gravity

2. Recommended center of gravity location zone.

The camper’s center of gravity should fall within the center of gravity zone for your vehicle’s cargo load. You must weigh any accessories or other equipment that you add to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra weight may shorten the center of gravity zone of your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. If your slide-in camper and its load weigh less than the CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger. Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper match. He’ll also help you determine your CWR.

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After you’ve loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and weigh on the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on your axles. The loads on the front and rear axles shouldn’t be more than either of the GAWRs. The total of the axle loads should not be more than the GVWR. Open your driver’s door and look at the CertificatiodTire label to find out your CWAR and GVWR. If you’ve gone over your weight ratings, move or take out some things until all the weights fall below the ratings. Of course, you should always tie down any loose items when you load your vehicle or camper. When you install and load your slide-in camper, check the manufacturer’s instructions. If you want more information on curb weights, cargo weights, cargo weight rating and the correct center of gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer can help you. Just ask for a copy of “Consumer Information, Truck-Camper Loading.”

Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the CWR for your vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer hitch attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or the GAWR. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if‘ you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see “Trailer Towing’’ in the Index. Pickup Conversion To Chassis Cab General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may consider having the pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed. Before you do so, first contact the GM Zone Office for your area for information on such conversions. (See the “Warranty and Owner Assistance” booklet for Zone Office.) Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which may affect vehicle safety. The components necessary to adapt the pickup to permit its safe use with a specialized body should be installed by a body builder in accordance with the information available from the Zone Office.

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Tires We don’t make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. These tires are warranted by the tire manufacturers and their warranties are delivered with every new vehicle. If your spare tire is a different brand than your road tires, you will have a tire warranty folder from each of these manufacturers.

Inflation - Tire Pressure The Certificatioflire label which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, or on the incomplete vehicle document in the cab, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires, when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than a mile. You can operate some vehicles at reduced inflation pressures only when you’ll be carrying reduced loads. On those vehicles, the minimum cold inflation pressures for a typical reduced load are printed on the “Improved Ride Tire Pressure’’ label located on the driver’s door. Weigh the vehicle to

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find the load on each tire and see the label for the minimum cold inflation pressures for that load.

NOTICE: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation) you can get:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy.

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get:

Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride ‘Needless damage from road hazards.

When io Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires - which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated. If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Special Tire lnflation

If you have 16 inch tires on your vehicle, and:

- You’ll be driving for very long at speeds of 66 mph (105 km/h) to

75 mph (120 km/h) where legal, inflate tires to 10 psi (70 kPa) more than the recommended cold inflation pressures.

- You’ll be driving for very long at speeds of 76 mph (120 km/h) to

85 mph (135 km/h) where legal, cold inflation pressures should be increased by 10 psi (70 kPa) and you must also reduce axle load capacity by 10%. Do not drive over 85 mph (135 km/h) even if it’s legal.

Inflation pressures should never exceed 10 psi (70 kPa) above the inflation specified for the maximum load of the tire. If you have 19.5 inch radial tires on your vehicle, and:

- You’ll be driving for very long at speeds of 66 mph (105 km/h) to

70 mph (110 km/h) where legal, inflate tires to 5 psi (35 kPa) more than the recommended cold inflation pressures, and reduce the axle load capacity by 4%.

- You’ll be driving for very long at speeds of 7 1 mph (1 15 km/h) to

75 mph (120 km/h) where legal, cold inflation pressures should be increased by 5 psi (35 kPa) and you must also reduce axle load capacity by 12%. Do not drive over 75 mph (120 km/h) even if it’s legal.

Inflation pressures should never exceed 20 psi (140 kPa) above the inflation specified for the maximum load of the tire.

Tire Inspection and Rotation To make your tires last longer, have them inspected and rotated at the mileages recommended in the Maintenance Schedule. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

FRT

8 FRT

Use this rotation pattern.

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If your vehicle has front tires with different load ratings or tread designs (such as all season vs. on/off road) than the rear tires, don’t rotate your tires front to rear. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressure as shown on the CertificatiodTire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

A CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened,

When It’s Time for New Tires

TREAD WEAR INDICATORS One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 2/32 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if:

0 You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. 0 You can see cord or Fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. 0 The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show

cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Dual Tire Rotation

Use one of these patterns if you have the same tire sizes and load ranges on the front and rear.

Use this pattern if your front and rear tires are different sizes or load ranges. The dual rear tires are rotated as a pair and the inside rear tires become the outside rear tires.

When you install dual wheels, be sure the vent holes in the wheels are lined UP.

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Dual lire Operation If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, the outer tire will usually wear faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically. If you’re going to be doing a lot of driving on high-crown roads, you can reduce tire wear by adding 5 psi (35 kPa) to the tire pressure in the outer tires. Be sure to return to the recommended pressures when no longer driving under those conditions.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the CertificationRire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by a “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.

rate of the

is based on braking

Traction -A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest are: A, B, and C. They represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire (straight-ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction. Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C , representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden.tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated a d not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. These grades are molded on

the sidewalls of passenger car tires.

the minimum required by

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While the tires available as standard or optional equipment on General Motors vehicles may vary with respect to these grades, all such tires meet General Motors performance standards and have been approved for use on General Motors vehicles. All passenger type (P Metric) tires must conform to Federal safety requirements in addition to these grades.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. In most cases, you will not need to have your wheels aligned again. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Wheel Replacement Repla@ Z m wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your GM dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your GM model.

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NOTICE: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, headlight aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

Used Replacement Wheels

Tire Chains

NOTICE: If your vehicle has dual wheels or LT26Y75R16 size tires, don’t use tire chains; they can damage your vehicle. If you don’t have dual wheels or if you have a tire size other than LT265/75R16, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast with chains on will damage your vehicle.

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Appearance Care

Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer's warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you're cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:

0 Gasoline 0 Benzene 0 Naphtha 0 Carbon Tetrachloride 0 Acetone

0 Paint Thinner 0 Turpentine 0 Lacquer Thinner 0 Nail Polish Remover

They can all be hazardous - some more than others - and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

NOTICE: Don't use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: 0 Laundry Soap

Bleach Reducing Agents

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Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or leather with a clean, damp cloth. Your GM dealer has two GM cleaners, a solvent-type spot lifter and a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. Do not use them on vinyl or leather. Here are some cleaning tips:

Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.

0 Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set.

Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area only. If you use them, don’t saturate the stained area.

0 If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or

it will set.

Using Foam-Type CIeaner on Fabric 0 Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt.