1994 GMC Sierra Owners Manual

corner of the instrument cluster.

This light, with the word SHIFT and the upshift arrow, is used on some models with manual transmissions. Depending on your particular model, your vehicle may not have this light. The SHIFT indicator light will help you get the best fuel economy. See “Shift Light” or “Shift Speeds- Vehicles Without Shift Light” in this section for more information.

Headlight High Beam Indicator Light

light is located near the middle left edge of the instrument cluster.

The high beam indicator is on whenever you use your high beam headlights. For more details about high beams, see “Headlight High-Low Beam” earlier in this section.

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Turn Signal and Lane Change lndicator Lights

The green Turn Signal and Lane Change Indicator lights are located at the middle left and right edges of the instrument cluster.

The signal indicator will come on whenever you signal a turn or lane change. See “Turn Signal and Lane Change Indicator” earlier in this section.

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Gages

Fuel Gage

Standard Cluster -Gas

Standard Cluster --Diesel

Tachometer Cluster -Gas

Tachometer Cluster --Diesel

The fuel gage, when the ignition is on. tclls you about how much fuel you have left i n your tank. The gage will first indicate empty before you are out of fuel, and you should get Inore fuel as soon 11s possiblc. Listed are four situations you may experience with your fuel gage:

At the gas station. the fuel pump shuts off before the gage reads full. 0 It takes a little more or less fuel to fill up than thc I ’ w I gage indicated. For example, the gage may have indicatcd thc tank was half full. but it

2-78

actually took a little more or less than half the tank’s capacity to fill the tank. The gage moves a little when you turn a corner or speed up. The gage doesn’t go back to empty when you turn off the ignition.

None of these indicate a problem with the fuel gage. For information on how to fill your fuel tank, see “Fuel - Filling Your Tank” in the Index. For your fuel tank capacity, see “Fuel --Tank Capacity” in the Index.

Engine Coolant Temperature Gage

This gage shows the engine coolant temperature. If the gage pointer moves into the red area, about 260” F ( 145” C) or more, your engine is too hot! It means that your engine coolant has overheated. If you have been operating your vehicle under normal operating conditions, you should pull off the road, stop your vehicle, and turn off the engine as soon as possible.

Hot Cooianf Can Burn You Badly! In “Problems on the Road,” this ~nanual shows what to do. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

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Oil Pressure Gage

Standard Cluster -Gas

Standard Cluster -Diesel

30 I

Tachometer Cluster -Gas Tachometer Cluster -Diesel

The oil pressure gage shows the engine oil pressure in psi (pounds per square inch) when the engine is running. Canadian vehicles indicate pressure in kPa (kilopascals). Oil pressure may vary with engine speed, outside temperature and oil viscosity, but readings above the low pressure zone indicate the normal operating range.

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A reading in the low pressure zone may be caused by a dangerously low oil level or other problem causing low oil pressure. Check your oil as soon as possible.

NOTICE: Damage to your engine from neglected oil problems can be costly and is not covered by your warranty.

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Voltmeter

Standard Cluster

Tachometer Cluster

14

Center High Mount Stop Lamp (CHMSL)

Your vehicle may have a Center High Mount Stop lamp (CHMSL) located above the rear window.

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If equipment such as a cap or camper is installed, a wire labeled “Center High Mount Stop lamp (CHMSL) feed” is provided along the left rear frame rail. This wire should be used to connect a CHMSL on the cap or camper. Camper Wiring Harness (Option)

An optional 5-wire harness is stored in the front stake pocket on the driver’s side of the bed. The harness has no connector, and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician.

It must be routed out of your vehicle and securely attached so that it won’t be pulled or rubbed while you’re using it. Store the harness in its original position. Wrap the harness together and tie neatly so it won’t be damaged. Trailer Wiring Harness (Option)

it

An optional 7-wire harness is stored under your vehicle along the rear frame crossmember. The harness has a 30 amp. in-line fused battery feed wire and no connector, and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician.

Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or strap vehicle’s frame rail. Be sure you leave it loose enough so the wiring won’t bind or break when turning with the trailer, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the harness in its original position. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged.

it to your

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Step-Bumper Pad If your vehicle has a rear step bumper, pad at the center of the bumper. Use this pad to improve footing when you are stepping on the bumper step.

it may be equipped with a rear step

If you will be using the bumper to tow a trailer, you must remove the center cutout circle to install the trailer ball. You must also remove both outer cutouts to attach the trailer safety chains.

Comfort Controls and Audio Systems

Section

In this section you’ll find out how to operate the comfort control and audio systems offered with your vehicle . Be sure to read about the particular system supplied with your vehicle . For explanation of vehicle symbols in this section. refer to “Vehicle Symbols” in the Introduction . Comfort Control System

Flow-Through Ventilation System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-2 Heating System (Without Air Conditioning) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-5 Electronic Heating/Air Conditioning System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-6 Rear Window Defogger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-8 Audiosystems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-9 3-10 3-10 3-10 3-11

FMStereo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AMStereo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . How to Operate Your AM ETR@ Radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . How to Operate Your AM-FM Stereo Audio System and Cassette Deck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . How to Operate Your AM-FM Stereo Audio System and Cassette Deck with Equalizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Care of Your Cassette Tape Player . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fixed Mast Antenna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3-16 3-20 . . 3-21

3-12

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Comfort Controls

Flow-Through Ventilation System Your vehicle’s flow-through ventilation system supplies outside air to the inside of your vehicle when it is moving.

With the side windows closed, air will flow into the fro Int

Outside air will also enter the vehicle when the heater or the air conditioning fan is running, unless your optional air conditioner is in the MAX mode. For more information see “MAX Button” in this section.

Ventilation Tips 0 Keep the hood and front air inlet free of ice, snow, or any other

obstruction (such as leaves). The heater and defroster will work far better, reducing the chance of fogging the inside of your windows.

0 When you enter a vehicle in cold weather, turn the blower fan to HI for

a few moments before driving off. This helps clear the intake ducts of snow and moisture, and reduces the chance of fogging the inside of your windows.

0 Keep the air path under the front seats clear of objects. This helps air to

circulate throughout your vehicle.

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Air Vents If your vehicle does not have air conditioning, there are air vents below the instrument panel.

Use the handles below your steering wheel, with the vent symbols on them, to open and close the vents.

If your vehicle has air conditioning, you will find air vents in the center and on the sides of your instrument panel.

You can move the vents grilles from side to side or up and down to direct the flow of air, or close the vents altogether. When you close a vent, it will increase the flow of air coming out of any vents that are open.

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Heater Output

Engine Coolant Heater (Engine Block Heater) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, it is equipped with an engine coolant heater. An engine coolant heater is optional on gas engine vehicles. You can use an engine coolant heater during initial start-up in cold weather (20” F, -8” C, or lower) to help heat the passenger compartment faster. Because an engine coolant heater warms the engine coolant, your vehicle’s heating system can provide some heat as soon as you start the engine. The use of an engine coolant heater also reduces the time it takes for the engine to reach normal operating temperature, and shortens the time it takes the heater to reach full output. For more information, See “Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index.

Diesel Engine If you idle your diesel engine for a long time when it’s cold outside, your heater may blow out cool air. This is normal. When you increase the engine speed, your heater should blow out warmer air. If it doesn’t, your coolant level may be low. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index to find out how to check your coolant level.

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Weating System (Without Air Conditioning)

If your vehicle does not have air conditioning, this is what your heating system will look like.

Function Le wer The upper lever on the control panel can be moved to three different heating functions.

Vent (Left): Air comes out at the vents on your instrument panel and at your front side windows. Heater (Center): Air comes out near the floor. This setting, along with a heat setting, is best for cold weather. Defrost (Right): This setting operates the defroster. Air comes out near the bottom of the windshield and at your front side windows. Use this setting, along with a heat setting, when you get fog or ice on the windshield.

Placing the lever between positions sends air out both vents.

Temperature Le wer The lower lever on the control panel lets you select the temperature of the air flowing into the passenger area of your vehicle. Move the lever right toward “+” for warmer air. Move the lever left toward “-” for cooler air.

Fan Control Knob The knob on the right side of the heating system control panel controls the fan speed. The knob has four speed positions. To increase the air flow, turn the knob toward “+”. To decrease the air flow, turn it toward “-”.

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Electronic Heating/Air Conditioning System

If your vehicle has air conditioning, your heating/air conditioning system will look like this. When you first turn on your vehicle’s air conditioning, open the windows to clear the vehicle of hot air. Using the MAX button can also help. See “MAX Button” in this section for more information.

Function Display Your system has a lighted display showing each system when it is operating. During normal operation, all the lights won’t come on at the same time. Only the ones displaying the current settings will light.

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Temperature Selector Bar The bar under your system display lets you select the temperature of the air flowing into the passenger area of your vehicle. Press COLD for cooler air and press HOT for warmer air. Release the bar when the system reaches the temperature you want. The temperature is shown on the display by the arrow moving between C and H.

Air Controls (BLEND) The two buttons to the right of the system display control the air flow. You can blend the air flow to suit your needs. The amount of blending is shown on the display by an arrow moving between the figure’s feet (floor air flow) and head (vent air flow).

Left Button Vent (Top): Press the top of this button and the air flow will come through the instrument panel vents. Heater (Bottom): Press the bottom of this button and the air flow will come through the floor outlet. The air flow can be blended between the two positions. To blend between positions press the side of the button showing the area where you would like more air flow. The system will automatically begin to blend toward the position chosen. To stop the system between positions, just press the SAME side of the button again.

Right Button Defrost (Top): This setting operates the defroster. Air comes out near the bottom of the windshield and at your front side windows. Use this setting, along with a heat setting, when you get fog or ice on the windshield. Heater (Bottom): Press the bottom of this button and air comes out near the floor. This setting, along with a heat setting, is best for passenger comfort in cold weather. The air flow can be blended between the two positions. To blend between positions, press the side of the button showing the area where you would like more air flow. The system will automatically begin to blend toward the position chosen. To stop the system between positions, just press the SAME side of the button again.

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A/C Button Press the button marked A/C to turn your air conditioner on and off. The A/C symbol will light on your display and air will come out of your instrument panel vents. The fan will automatically be set on LOW. When you press the A/C button to turn the air conditioner off, the system will operate in the vent mode. When you turn the air conditioner back on, the system will operate in the mode that you last selectcd unless the OFF button was pressed.

MAX Button If you press the MAX button, the air in your vehicle will be recirculated. With the air conditioner on, MAX will give you maximum cooling. It can also be used in all modes to help keep dust out of your vchicle. When MAX is selected, REC will light on your display. If your air conditioner develops high system pressure, it will automatically go into the MAX mode and REC will light on your display. The A/C system will remain in the MAX mode, even if you press the MAX button, until system pressure returns to a normal level.

Fan Control Button This button is in the upper right corner of your system control panel. The fan has four settings - low, medium low, medium high and high. Press the top of the button “+” to increase the air flow. Press the bottom of the button “-” to decrease the air flow. The setting you select is shown on your display as LOW, MED LOW, MED HI or HI.

OFF Button Press this button to turn the air conditioning/heating system off. Pressing OFF will erase the present mode of operation from the system’s memory. Outside air will still come out of the heater outlet whenever the vehicle is moving forward. If the OFF button was pressed, you must press A/C, MAX, or one of the BLEND buttons for the system to come back on.

Rear Window Defogger You can tell if your vehicle has this option by looking at the rear window. If you see lines running across the glass, you have it. These are the conductive wire-like elements which heat your window.

3-8

I NOTICE:

Scraping the inside of your rear window could cut and damage the defogger. Your warranty would not cover this damage. And, don’t put decals there, you might have to scrape them off.

For best results, clear the window of as much snow or ice as possible first.

To turn on the rear window defogger, find the switch marked REAR DEFOG on your instrument panel, just below the heater system. Press the right side of the switch, with the defog symbol on it, until the light in the switch comes on, then release it.

The rear window defogger will only work if the ignition switch is turned to RUN. You can turn the defogger off at any time by pressing the left, lighted side of the switch. The defogger will shut itself off after several minutes, so that the a olass does not get too hot. If the defogger shuts off, and the window still isn’t clear, turn the defogger on again. Audio Systems Your Delco@ audio system has been designed to operate easily and give years of listening pleasure. You will get the. most enjoyment out of it if you acquaint yourself with it first. Find out what your Delco@ system can do and how to operate all its controls, to be sure you’re getting the most out of the advanced engineering that went into it. Be aware that hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud and harmful I:O your hearing. Take precautions by adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe sound level before your hearing adapts to it. To help avoid hearing loss or damage:

0 Adjust the volume control to the lowest setting.

Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably and clearly.

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FM Stereo FM stereo will give you the best sound. But FM signals can only reach about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). And, tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go.

AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like electrical storms and power lines. If the noise interferes with your listening, try reducing the treble to lessen the noise. AM Stereo This means the Delco@ system can receive C-QUAM@ stereo broadcasts. Many AM stations around the country use C-QUAM@ to produce stereo, though some do not. If your Delco@ system can get C-QUAM@, your “STEREO” light will come on when you’re receiving it. (C-QUAM’ registered trademark of Motorola, Inc.).

is a

NOTICE: Before you add any sound equipment to your vehicle - like a tape player, CB radio, mobile telephone or two-way radio - be sure you can add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to do it properly. Added sound equipment may interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine, Delco@ radio or other systems, and even damage them. And, your vehicle’s systems may interfere with the operation of sound equipment that has been added improperly. So, before adding sound equipment, check with your dealer and be sure to check Federal rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.

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Yow to Operate Your AM ETR':"' Radio

To Play the Radio Press the PWR-VOL-TONE knob to switch the radio on and off. This knob does two other things:

It controls the volume. Rotate the VOI, knob clockwise to increases the volume. The knob behind the PWR-VOL knob is the TONE knob. Rotate this knob clockwise for more treble and counterclockwise for more bass.

TUNE Button Press the side of the button with the down arrow to decrease the radio station frequency or the side of the button with the up arrow to increase the radio station frequency.

Pushbuttons The five pushbuttons let you return to favorite stations. Just:

Tune in the station you want. Press the SET button. (SET appears in the electronic display for a f'ew seconds). Within 5 seconds, press one of the fivc pushbuttons to store the station. Whenever you press that button, the preset station will return.

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How to Operate Your AM-FM Stereo Audio System and Cassette Deck

To Play The Radio Press the amber PWR button to switch the radio on and off.

RCL Button When the ignition is off, press the RCL button to display the time. With the ignition in RUN or ACC, press RCL to recall the radio station frequency and volume setting when the time display is showing. After a few seconds, the readout will return to the time display.

SEEK Button Press the SEEK button to make the receiver seek, and stop at, the next higher available station.

SCAN Button Press the SCAN button to make the receiver scan, and momentarily pause at, all available stations. SCAN will appear in the electronic display while the receiver is in the scan mode. Press SCAN again to cancel the scan mode and hold the current station.

AM-FM Button Press the AM-FM button to switch between AM and FM.

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VOL Button The VOL button controls the volume. Pressing VOL "+" increases volume; VOL "-" decreases volume.

TUNE Button To tune in radio stations, press the TUNE button. TUNE "+" increases radio station frequency; TUNE "-" decreases radio station frequency.

BASS Button Press the BASS button to adjust the bass level. BASS "+" increases the bass; BASS "-" decreases bass. Adjust the TREB and BASS buttons to give a pleasing sound. If a station is weak and noisy, adjust the TREB button to reduce the noise.

TREBLE Button Press the TREB button to adjust the treble level. TREB "+" increases the treble; TREB "-" decreases treble.

BAUFADE Buttons To balance and h d e the sound between the leftkight or fronthear speakers, use the four buttons with the speaker symbols on them. Press the left and right buttons to adjust the left and right speaker balance. Pressing the top and bottom buttons adjusts the front and rear speaker volume balance, or fade. The relative. balance. and fade adjustments are shown on the electronic display.

Pushbuttons The six pushbuttons let you return to favorite stations. You can set the pushbuttons for up to twelve favorite stations (6 AM and 6 FM). To set the pushbuttons, just:

Tune in the station you want. Press the SET button. (SET appears in the electronic display for a few seconds.) Within 5 seconds, push one of the six pushbuttons to store the station. After that, whenever you press that button, the preset station will return.

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Clock To set the clock, just:

Press the SET button. The word SET will light up in the electronic display. Within 5 seconds, press and hold the SEEK button until the correct hour appears on the display. Then, press and hold the SCAN button until the correct minute appears on the display. After you set the time, the word SET will remain in the electronic display for a few seconds.

Cassette Deck

p... .... ii . . . .

.....

. . . . . . . . " _ .

......................... ..... i'

f. ...................

./.. .._..-...

..............

. . . . .

. . . . . . . . -. . . . . . . . .

...

If you have a cassette deck, it is built to work best with tapes that are 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer than that are so thin that they may not work well in this player. Press the PWR button on the radio to turn the system on. The radio will play until a cassette is Dushed into the cassette entry door (the tape side goes in first.) Once the tape is playing, use the radio control buttons for volume, tone, balance and fade, just as you do for the radio. The arrows on the player indicate which side of the tape is being played.

3-14

PROG To go from one side of the tape to the other, press the PROG button. Observe the lighted arrows to determine which side of the tape is being played. If a tape is inserted with side “1” (or “A”) up, then the up arrow means that that side is being played. Likewise, a down arrow would indicate that side “2” (or “B”) had been selected. The player will automatically switch to the other side of the tape when the first side ends.

REV To rapidly rewind the tape, press the REV button. The tape will rapidly rewind until you press either the PROG or E JCT button. If the beginning of the tape is reached while in the REV mode, play will resume on the same side of the tape.

FWD To rapidly advance the tape, press the FWD button. The tape will rapidly advance until you press either the PROG or E JCT button. If the end of the tape is reached while in the FWD mode, the tape will change direction, and play will resume on the opposite side of the tape.

EJCT Press the EJCT button to eject the cassette tape from the player (the radio will then play).

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How to Operate Your AM-FM Stereo Audio System and Cassette Deck with Equalizer

To Play The Radio Press the amber PWR button to switch the radio on and off.

RCL Button When the ignition is off, press the RCL button to display the time. With the ignition in RUN or ACC, press RCL to recall the radio station frequency and volume setting when the time display is showing. After a few seconds, the readout will return to the time display.

SEEK Button Press the SEEK button to make the receiver seek, and stop at, the next higher available station.

SCAN Button Press the SCAN button to make the receiver scan, and momentarily pause at, all available stations. SCAN will appear in the electronic display while the receiver is in the scan mode. Press SCAN again to cancel the scan mode and hold the current station.

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AM-FM Button Press the AM-FM button to switch between AM and FM.

Stereo (AM) Your Delco@ radio can receive C-QUAM@ stereo broadcasts. Many AM stations around the country use C-QUAM@ to produce stereo, though some do not. If your Delco@ system can get C-QUAM@ signals, your STEREO light will come on when you are receiving stereo. (C-QUAM@ is a registered trademark of Motorola Inc.).

VOL Button The VOL button controls the volume. Pressing VOL "+" increases volume; VOL "-" decreases volume.

TUNE Button To tune in radio stations, press the TUNE button. TUNE "+" increases radio station frequency; TUNE "-" decreases radio station frequency.

BAUFADE Buttons To balance and fade the sound between the lefthight or frondrear speakers, use the four buttons with the speaker symbols on them. Press the left and right buttons to adjust the left and right speaker balance. Pressing the top and bottom buttons adjusts the front and rear speaker volume balance, or fade. The relative balance and fade adjustments are shown on the electronic display.

Pushbuttons The six pushbuttons let you return to favorite stations. You can set the pushbuttons for up to twelve favorite stations (6 AM and 6 FM). To set the pushbuttons, just:

Tune in the station you want. Press the SET button. (SET appears in the electronic display for a few seconds.) Within 5 seconds, push one of the six pushbuttons to store the station. After that, whenever you press that button, the preset station will return.

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Clock To set the clock, just:

0 Press the SET button. The word SET will light up in the electronic

display.

0 Within 5 seconds, press and hold the SEEK button until the correct

hour appears on the display.

0 Then, press and hold the SCAN button until the correct minute appears

on the display.

0 After you set the time, the word SET will remain in the electronic

display for a few seconds.

Cassette Deck with Graphic Equalizer

If you have a cassette deck, it is built to work best with tapes that are 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer than that are so thin that they may not work well in this player. Press the PWR button on the radio to turn the system on. The radio will play until a cassette is pushed into the cassette entry door (the tape side goes in first.) Once the tape is playing, use the radio control buttons for volume, balance and fade, just as you do for the radio. The arrows on the player indicate which side of the tape is being played.

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Graphic Equalizer The graphic equalizer rets you fine tune bass, mid-range and treble frequencies to your individual taste. The unit has five separate adjustable frequency ranges. To emphasize a frequency, press the top of the button “+” and to de-emphasize a frequency, press the bottom of the button “-”. It’s best to begin with all the controls in the middle position, then adjust each control as you like. Observe the electronic display for relative frequency emphasis.

Cr02 Button For better sound when playing high bias chrome or metal tapes, press the Cr02 button. The light in the button will be on while the player is in the Cr02 mode. When playing standard tapes, you will get better sound while in the standard mode. If the Cr02 button is lit, press it to return the player to standard mode (the light will go out).

PROG Button To go from one side of the tape to the other, press the PROG button. Observe the lighted arrows to determine which side of the tape is being played. If a tape is inserted with side “ I ” (or “A”) up, then the up arrow means that that side is being played. Likewise, a down arrow would indicate that side “2” (or “B”) had been selected. The player will automatically switch to the other side of the tape when the first side ends.

EJECT Button Press the EJECT button to eject the cassette tape from the player (the radio will then play.)

TAPE The up arrow and down arrow, below the word TAPE on the cassette deck, let you know which side of the tape is currently playing. For more information, see PROG in this section.

FWD Button To rapidly advance the tape, press the FWD button. The light in the button will be lit and the tape will rapidly advance until you press the PROG button or press the FWD button again. If the end of the tape is reached while in the FWD mode, the tape will change direction, and play will resume on the opposite side of the tape.

3-19

SEEK Button To search for the next selection on the tape, press the SEEK button. The light in the SEEK button will be lit and the player will seek the beginning of the next selection. For the seek mode to stop at the next selection, there must be at least a 4-second gap between selections on the tape.

REV Button To rapidly rewind the tape, press the REV button. The light in the button will be lit and the tape will rapidly rewind until you press the PROG button or press the REV buuon again. If the beginning of the tape is reached while in the REV mode, play will resume on the same side of the tape.

REPT Button Press the REPT button to repeat the currently playing selection on the tape. For the REPT mode to repeat a selection, there must be at least a 4-second gap between selections on the tape.

Care of Your Cassette Tape Player A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can result in reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes, or a damaged player mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their plastic cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight, and extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate properly or cause failure of the tape player. As regular maintenance, your tape player should be cleaned each month or after every 15 hours of use. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if the tape or the tape player is at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player.

Clean your tape player with a wiping-action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette, and follow the directions provided with it.

Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure that the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced.

3-20

Fixed Mast Antenna The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should replace it. Check every once in a while to be sure the mast is still fender.

tightened to the

3 -23

Notes

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Your Driving and the Road

Section

Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions . We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving . Defensive Driving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DrunkenDriving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Control of a Vehicle

4-2 4-2

Braking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-5 Steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-8 Steering Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-8 Passing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-10 Lossofcontrol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-11 Off-Road Driving With Your Four-wheel Drive Vehicle . . . . . . . . . . 4-13 DrivingatNight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-24 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Driving in the Rain 4-26 CityDriving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-28 Freeway Driving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-29 . . . . . . . . . 4-31 Hill and Mountain Roads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WinterDriving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-33 Power Winches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-36 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-37 PowerTake-Off TowingaTrailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-38

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Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your Vehicle: Buckle up. (See “Safety Belts” in the Index.) Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads, or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.’’ Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol takes away three things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle:

0 Judgment

Muscular Coordination Vision

Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol - a driver, a passenger or someone else, such as a pedestrian, had been drinking. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. About 20,000 motor vehicle-related deaths occur each year because of alcohol, and thousands of people are injured. Just how much alcohol is too much if a person plans to drive? Ideally, no one should drink alcohol and then drive. But if one does, then what’s “too much”? It can be a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Content (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things:

0 How much alcohol is in the drink.

The drinker’s body weight.

0 The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking. 0 The length of time it has taken the drinker to consume the alcohol.

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According to the American Medical Association, a 180-pound (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka. It's the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person's BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a slightly lower BAC level.

l[i THAI WILL IN A BAC T .05'h IN E SHOWN

' HOURS

HOURS

HOUR

The law in most US. states sets the legal limit at a BAC of 0.10 percent. In Canada the limit is 0.08 percent, and in some other countries it's lower than that. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we've seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them.

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But it’s very important to keep in mind that the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0. I0 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in an accident increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent (three beers in one hour for a 180-pound or 82 kg person) has doubled his or her chance of having an accident. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of that driver having an accident is six times greater; at a level of 0. IS percent, the chances are twenty-five times greater! And, the body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “1’11 be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with a higher BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse. That’s especially true for brain, spinal cord and heart injuries. That means that if anyone who has been drinking - driver or passenger - is in a crash, the chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if that person had not been drinking. And we’ve already seen that the chance of a crash itself is higher for drinking drivers.

Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, and judgment will be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious - or even fatal - accident if you drive after drinking. Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

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Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it‘s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle. Braking Braking action involves perceptiorz time and renction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’spemptiorz time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two 01- three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3 4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph ( 100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; and the condition of your brakes. Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts - heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking - rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life.

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If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) Your vehicle has an advanced electronic braking system that can help you keep it under control. When you start your vehicle and begin to drive away, you may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise. The ABS motor comes on momentarily when the vehicle reaches 8 mph ( I 2 km/h). And you may even notice that your brake pedal moves a little while this is going on. This is the ABS system testing itself.

Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet. You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS. A computer senses that the rear wheels are slowing down. IT one of the rear wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will work the brakes at the rear wheels. It is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions.

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I-

As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on rear wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: Anti-lock doesn't change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won't have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes.

To Use Anti-Lock Use rear-wheel anti-lock like regular brakes. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some noise outside your vehicle, but this is normal. Let anti-lock work for you, but remember: Your front wheels can still stop rolling. If that happens, release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again so that you can steer. With the four-wheel drive option, you won't have anti-lock braking when you shift into four-wheel drive. But you will have regular braking. When you shift back into two-wheel drive, you will have anti-lock again.

Braking in Emergencies At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation that requires hard braking. You have the rear-wheel anti-lock braking system. Your front wheels can stop rolling when you brake very hard. Once they do, the vehicle can't respond to your steering. Momentum will carry it in whatever direction it was headed when the front wheels stopped rolling. That could be off the road, into the very thing you were trying to avoid, or into traffic.

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So, use a “squeeze” braking technique. This will give you maximum braking while maintaining steering control. You do this by pushing on the brake pedal with steadily increasing pressure. When you do, it will help maintain steering control. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.

Steering lips

Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you‘ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control systems - steering and braking - have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the hard braking can demand too much at those places. You can lose control. The same thing can happen if you’re steering through a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems - steering and acceleration - can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower.

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If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve. and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.

steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking - if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action - steering around the problem. Your Vehicle can perform very well in emergen.cies like these. First apply your brakes, but not enough to lock your front wheels. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available. An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quicltly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object.

p-:. : . .. , ... 1

The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

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Off-Road Recovery You may find sometime that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving. If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to 1/4 turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

1. Edge of Road

Surface

2. Slow Down 3. Left Approx. Quarter Turn

4. Recover

Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents - the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing:

0 “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides. and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.

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0

Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic. Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot. Check your mirrors , glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that if your right outside mirror is convex, the vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.) Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle. Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lights are not flashing, it may be slowing down or start If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

;ing to turn. to get

Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.

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Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your Vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues - such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: The rear-wheel anti-lock braking system (RWAL) helps avoid only a rear braking skid. In a braking skid (where the front wheels are no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the brakes to get the front wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the front wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.

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Driving Guidelines Off-Road Driving with Your Four-wheel Drive Vehicle This off-road guide is for vehicles that have four-wheel drive. Also, see “Anti-lock Brakes” in the Index. If your vehicle doesn’t have four-wheel drive, you shouldn’t drive off-road unless you’re on a level, solid surface. Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. “Off-roading” means you’ve left the great North American road system behind. Traffic lanes aren’t marked. Curves aren’t banked. There are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill. In short, you’ve gone right back to nature. Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that’s why it’s very important that you read this guide. You’ll find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable.

Before You Go Off-Roading There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Be sure you read all the information about your four-wheel drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you’ll be driving’? If you don’t know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land‘? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission.

Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle.

0 The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your

rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can. Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on the off-road terrain doesn’t toss things around.

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You’ll find other important information in this manual. See “Vehicle Loading,” “Luggage Carrier’’ and “Tires” in the Index.

Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads. It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly. Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you’ll want to know how to use it properly.

Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and different driving skills. Here’s what we mean. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet, and body you’ll need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.

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Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds:

you approach things faster and you have less time to scan the terrain for obstacles.

0 you have less time to react. 0 you have more vehicle bounce when you drive over obstacles.

you’ll need more distance for braking, especially since you’re on an unpaved surface.

of terrain. You

its many different features. Here are

Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds need to be familiar with the terrain and some things to consider. Surface Conditions. Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or the steering, acceleration, and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and longer braking distances. Surface Obstacles. Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you’re not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:

ice. Each of these surfaces affects

Is the path ahead clear? Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? (There’s more discussion of these subjects later.) Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction quickly?

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When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you’re not prepared. When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you can’t control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns. or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits or signal lights. You have to use your own good .judgment about what is safe and what isn’t. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious - or even fatal - accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. (See “Drunken Driving” in the Index.)

Driving On Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and can’t do. There are some hills that simply can’t be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

A CAUTION:

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you can’t control yorrr speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. the steepness, don’t drive the hill.

If you have any doubt about

Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it’s one of those hills that’s just too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. Oil a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill. the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs.

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Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill.

Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places'! Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping? Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you won't have to make turning maneuvers? Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)'? What's beyond the hill? 1s there a cliff, an embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you don't know. It's the smart way to find out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps.

Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering wheel. Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain your speed. Don't use more power than you need, because you don"t want your wheels to start spinning or sliding. Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

A CAUTION:

Tbrning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous, You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of the hill. Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills. Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to let opposing traffic know you're there. Use your headlights even during the day. They make you more visible to oncoming traffic.

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Q: What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and I

A:

can’t make it up the hill? If this happens, there are some things you should do, and there are some things you must not do. First, here’s what you slzould do: Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake. If your engine is still running, shift the transmission into reverse, release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in reverse. If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to restart it. With the brake pedal depressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to “ P ’ (Park) (or, shift to “N” (Neutral) if your vehicle has a manual transmission) and restart the engine. Then, shift to reverse, release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in reverse. As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It’s best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover. Here are some things you mist nof do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill. Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into “N” (Neutral) (or depressing the clutch, if you have a manual transmission) to “rev-up” the engine and regain forward momentum. This won’t work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control.

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Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift into reverse, release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the hill and decide I just

can’t do it. What should I do?

A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in “P” (Park) (or the

manual transmission in first gear) , and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to “N” (Neutral) when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you’ll want to consider a number of things:

Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts‘? Logs? Boulders? What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

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If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

A CAUTION:

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

Q: Are there some things I should not do when driving down a hill? A: Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose

control and have a serious accident. When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that’s not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down.

0 Never go downhill with the transmission in “N” (Neutral) , or with the

clutch pedal depressed in a manual shift . This is called “free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do a l l the work and could overheat and fade. Avoid braking so hard that you lock the front wheels when going downhill. If your front wheels are locked, you can’t steer your vehicle. If your wheels lock up during downhill braking, you may feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways. To regain your direction, just ease off the brakes and steer to keep the front of the vehicle pointing straight downhill.

0: Am I likely to stall when going downhill? A: It’s much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it happens going

downhill, here’s what to do.

0 Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes. Apply the parking

brake. Shift to ‘ b P ’ (Park) (or to Neutral with the lnanual transmission) and, while still braking, restart the engine.

0 Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight

down.

0 If the engine won’t start, get out and get hclp.

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Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:

A hill that can be driven straighr: up or aown may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover. Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over. Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more. For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

Q: What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do? A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This

should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

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Stalling on an Incline If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you’ll be right in its path.

If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

Driving In Mud, Sand, Snow, Or Ice When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances. It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck. When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. You may want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve traction.

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Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfxes, it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

Driving In Water Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, don’t try it - you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts. If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

If you have a diesel engine, see “Driving Through Water (Diesel Engines)” in the Index for more information on driving through water.

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After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information. Driving at Night

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired - by alcohol or drugs. with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively. Don’t drink and drive.

a Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlights

behind you. Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlights can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

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Nighf Vision No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlights, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching lights. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (,as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misairned headlights), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching lights. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean - inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlights light up f i r less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlights should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness - the inability to see in dim light - and aren’t even aware of it.

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Driving in the Rain

tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

Hydroplaning Hjdroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This caa happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. it can if your tires haven’t much Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s sudace, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.

just isn’t a hard and

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Some Other Rainy Weather Tips 0 Turn on your low-beam headlights - not just your parking llgnts - to

help make you more visible to others. Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)

City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:

Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

0 Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll

save time and energy. (See the next section, “Freeway Driving.”)

0 Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fat or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted.

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Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh - such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Vehicle dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape‘? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels?

0 Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean‘? 0 Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving‘? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure‘?

0 Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route?

Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?

0 Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps? Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured.

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What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:

0 Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool

interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently.

0 If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain. If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you're planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See "Off-Road Driving" in the Index for information about driving off-road.) 0 Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

0 Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this:

let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

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Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and , and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

0 You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special

problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

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Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your Vehicle in good shape for winter. Be sure your engine coolant mix is correct.

0 You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle. Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about freezing (32” F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow - drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Your anti-lock brakes improve your ability to make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-lock” in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow, Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

A CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle , especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

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I

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery (or batteries) charged. You will need a well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlights. Let the heater run for awhile. If you have a diesel engine, you may have to run it at a higher speed to get enough heat. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. Power Winches If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored.

When operating a power winch on your vehicle, always leave the transmission in "N" (Neutral). Leaving a automatic transmission in "P" (Park) while using a power winch may damage the transmission. Also, leaving an automatic or manual transmission in gear while using a power winch may damage the transmission.

Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake, or block the wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling.

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Power Take-Off (PTO)

NOTICE: If you will be using the PTO while the vehicle remains in one place, drive the vehicle to warm it up before operating the PTO. Don’t use the PTO for more than four hours without driving your vehicle again. If you don’t follow these guidelines, your transfer case or transmission could be damaged.

NOTICE: Don’t have a PTO that will exceed 35 horsepower installed on your vehicle. It could damage your transmission or transfer case.

Before using a power take-off, refer to the manufacturer’s or installer’s instructions. To engage a power take-oft 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Shift the transmission into “N” (Neutral). 3. Hold the clutch pedal down and engage the power take-off.

If you are going to drive the vehicle, shift the transmission into the gear you want. Then shift the transfer case into the range you want (if you have four-wheel drive), apply the regular brakes and release the parking brake.

4. Release the clutch (and the regular brakes) as you normally would.

When you release the clutch, the power take-off will start.

Using a Transfer Case Mounted Power Take-Off (Manual Transmission) 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Shift the transfer case into “N” (Neutral). 3. Hold the clutch pedal down. If the vehicle will remain in the same

place, shift the transmission into the highest gear.

4. Engage the power take-off.

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If you are going to drive the vehicle, shift the transmission into the gear you want. Then shift the transfer case into the range you want, apply the regular brakes and release the parking brake.

5. Release the clutch (and the regular brakes) as you normally would.

When you release the clutch, the power take-off will start.

Using a Transfer Case Mounted Power Take-Off (Automatic Transmission) 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Shift the transfer case into “N’ (Neutral). 3. Shift the transmission into “N’ (Neutral). 4. Engage the power take-off.

If you are going to drive the vehicle, shift the transfer case into the range you want. Then apply the regular brakes and release the parking brake.

5. Shift the transmission to “D” (Drive) to start the power 6. Release the regular brakes to drive the vehicle. Towing a Trailer

take-off.

NOTICE: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. correctly, follow the advice in this section, and see your Vehicle dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

To pull a trailer

Every vehicle is ready for some trailer towing. If it was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this section. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points.

There are many different laws having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 4,000 pounds (1 800 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than 4,000 pounds ( I 800 kg).

You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

0 Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 k d h ) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to General Motors of Canada Limited, Customer Assistance Center, 1908 Colonel Sam Drive, Oshawa, Ontario LlH 8P7.

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The gross vehicle weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

0 If you use a step bumper hitch, and your trailer tongue has a V-shaped foot, your bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Check the distance

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from the front edge of the foot to the middle of the hitch ball socket. If the distance is less than 12 inches, take the foot off the trailer tongue. 0 If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than

4,000 pounds (1 8 14 kg) be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes - and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer brake system can tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system, but consider the following:

0 Will the trailer brake system use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder? If it will, don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system. Both braking systems won’t work well, and you could even lose your brakes altogether.

0 Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If

not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle. If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. if you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly so responsive as your vehicle is by itself.

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Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.

Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.

Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible? have someone guide you.

Making Turns When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

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Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating. When towing at high altitude with steep uphill grades,you need to consider the following information. The lower atmospheric pressure at high altitude allows your vehicles engine coolant to boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you immediately turn your engine off after towing at high altitude with steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let your vehicle operate in a parked position with the transmission in “N” (Neutral) for a few minutes before you turn off the engine. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. If you have an automatic transmission, you should use “D” (or, as you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in “D” when towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission. If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use fifth gear. Just drive in fourth gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).

Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:

1.

2. 3.

4.

5.

6.

Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “P’ (Park) yet, or in gear for a manual transmission. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. Re-apply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift to “P7, (Park), or “R” (Reverse) for a manual transmission. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear-not Release the regular brakes.

(Neutral).

in “ N 7

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A CAUTION:

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in “P” (Park) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If’ you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. If you have four-wheel drive and your transfer case is in “N”