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when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.


Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 9-47.


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Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading the Vehicle on page 8-32. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 9-47 and Loading the Vehicle on page 8-32. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.


Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 9-54. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 9-56.


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Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much flexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road


hazards


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading the Vehicle on page 8-32. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry.


Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading the Vehicle on page 8-32. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading the Vehicle on page 8-32.


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When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 9-70. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).


Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.)


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Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or


alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 9-50 for additional information. Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause


harmful interference.


2. This device must accept any


interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.


As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale.


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The TPMS operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause


interference.


2. This device must accept any


interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.


Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.


Tire Pressure Monitor Operation The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) warns the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly.


When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the low tire pressure warning light, located on the instrument panel cluster, comes on. This light also comes on for a few seconds and then goes off when you turn the ignition to ON/RUN. This indicates the TPMS is functioning properly. If the low-tire pressure warning light comes on while driving the vehicle, the system may have detected a low-tire condition. You need to stop as soon as possible and check the tires. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive.


This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to the vehicle, shows the size of the vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for the tires when they are cold. See Loading the Vehicle on page 8-32, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 9-47. The vehicle’s TPMS can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 9-53 and Tires on page 9-41.


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TPMS Malfunction Light The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. The low tire warning light comes on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light to come on are: (cid:129) One of the road tires has been


replaced with the spare tire. The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor.


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The initialization (reset) procedure failed. See “TPMS Reset” later in this section.


(cid:129) One or more TPMS sensors


are missing or damaged. The TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/retailer for service. (cid:129) Replacement tires or wheels do not match the vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 9-54.


(cid:129) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction. If tire chains are installed on the vehicle. If there is a lot of snow or ice around the wheels or wheel housings. If a window tint that affects the radio wave signals is installed.


If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light comes on and stays on.


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TPMS Reset The TPMS sensors and transmitters have unique identification codes. Anytime you replace a TPMS sensor or transmitter the identification codes need to be registered and the TPMS needs to be reset (initialized). When the system is initialized, the current air pressure in the tires is set as the tire pressure benchmark. The tire pressure warning system determines decreased air pressure by comparing tire pressure to the benchmark pressure stored in the TPMS. Do not reset the TPMS without first correcting the cause of a low-tire condition. To reset the system: 1. Park the vehicle at a safe place


and apply the parking brake. Turn the engine off. 2. Turn the ignition to


ACC/ACCESSORY or LOCK/OFF.


3. Adjust the tire pressure of all the


installed tires to the specified cold tire inflation pressure level indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label attached to the vehicle.


4. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN with


the engine off.


5. Press and hold the tire pressure warning reset switch until the tire pressure warning light flashes slowly on/off three times.


Wait for a few minutes with the ignition in ON/RUN, and then turn the ignition to ACC/ACCESSORY or LOCK/OFF. If the low-tire pressure warning light does not flash three times while you press and hold the reset button, the reset has failed. Repeat the reset process. If the reset cannot be performed, see your dealer/retailer for service.


If you press the tire pressure reset switch while the vehicle is moving, the reset is not performed. If you press the tire pressure reset switch accidentally and initialization is performed, adjust the tire pressure to the specified level and perform the reset procedure again.


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Tires on page 9-54 and Wheel Replacement on page 9-59 for more information.


See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 9-47 and Loading the Vehicle on page 8-32.


{ CAUTION


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 9-62.


Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 10-2.


When rotating the vehicle’s tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Tires should only be moved from front to rear and rear to front on the same side of the vehicle. Do not include the compact spare tire in the tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures to the amounts shown on the Tire and Loading Information label.


Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect the vehicle’s tires, including the spare tire, for signs of wear or damage. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 9-54 for more information. Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 11-3. The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will ensure that the vehicle continues to perform most like it did when the tires were new. Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate the tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New


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When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions influence when you need new tires.


One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when the tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need new tires if any of the following statements are true: (cid:129) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire.


(cid:129) You can see cord or fabric


showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if the vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this aging takes place, including temperatures,


loading conditions, and inflation pressure maintenance. With proper care and maintenance tires typically wear out before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about the need to replace the tires as they get older, consult the tire manufacturer for more information.


Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for the vehicle. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires that are the same size, brand, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as the vehicle’s original tires. This way, the vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 9-42 for additional information.


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9-55


GM recommends replacing tires in sets of four. This is because uniform tread depth on all tires will help keep the vehicle performing most like it did when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of tires can affect the braking and handling performance of the vehicle. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 9-53.


{ CAUTION


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause


(Continued)


CAUTION (Continued)


damage to the vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with the compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on the vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 9-70.


{ CAUTION


If you use bias-ply tires on the vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on the vehicle.


Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system could give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if tires not recommended for the vehicle are installed. Tires that do not match the original equipment tires could give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with original equipment tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 9-48. The vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 8-32, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on the vehicle.


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Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, antilock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.


{ CAUTION


If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.


See Buying New Tires on page 9-54
and Accessories and Modifications on page 9-3 for additional information.


Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum selection width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the Unites States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.


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The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements.


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (11⁄2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate.


Traction — AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.


{ WARNING


The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


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Temperature — A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor


Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. { WARNING


The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment might need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper diagnosis.


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Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.


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If you need to replace any of the wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for the vehicle.


{ CAUTION


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.


Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 9-62 for more information.


Used Replacement Wheels


{ CAUTION


Putting a used wheel on the vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


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Tire Chains


{ CAUTION


If the vehicle has P215/45R18
size tires, do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of the vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash.


(Continued)


CAUTION (Continued)


Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on the vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to the vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting the vehicle, and do not spin the wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.


Notice: If the vehicle has a tire size other than P215/45R18 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for the tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting the vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage the vehicle.


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Tire Changing If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the


steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.


{ CAUTION


Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, it is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, only use it for changing a flat tire.


If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


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CAUTION (Continued)


3. Turn off the engine and do not restart while the vehicle is raised.


4. Do not allow passengers to


remain in the vehicle.


To be certain the vehicle will not move, put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.


When you have a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.


The following information tells you how to use the jack and change a tire.


Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 4-3.


{ CAUTION


Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic


transmission shift lever in P (Park), or shift a manual transmission to 1 (First) or R (Reverse).


(Continued)


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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools


To remove the spare tire and tools:


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1. Turn the two lock knobs on the


cargo area floor (C) to UNLOCK.


2. Lift up and remove the both of the cargo area floors (C).


3. Remove the hook holding the


jack (B) and remove the jack (B).


4. Remove the jack handle (E) and wheel wrench (F) from the passenger side of the cargo area.


A. Compact Spare Tire B. Jack C. Cargo Area Floor(s) D. Tire/Wheel Retainer Nut E. Jack Handle F. Wheel Wrench


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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. Do a safety check before


proceeding. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 9-62.


2. If the vehicle has steel wheels


with plastic wheel nut caps, loosen the plastic wheel nut caps. You may need the wheel wrench to loosen them. Do not pry off wheel covers that have plastic wheel nut caps.


3. Remove the wheel cover and set


it off to the side.


4. Attach the jack handle to the jack


and turn clockwise to raise the lift head a little.


5. Remove the tire/wheel


retainer (D) from the compact spare tire (A) and remove the compact spare tire (A). See Compact Spare Tire on page 9-70.


6. Place the compact spare tire (A)


next to the flat tire.


5. Loosen all the wheel nuts.


Do not remove them yet.


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{ CAUTION


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


{ CAUTION


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.


7. Turn the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit underneath the wheel well.


6. Position the jack and raise the jack lift head to fit over the car flange between the two notches.


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{ CAUTION


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 9-62.


8. Remove the wheel nuts and the


flat tire.


9. Install the spare tire.


10. Remove any rust or dirt from


the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.


11. Place the compact spare tire on


the wheel-mounting surface.


{ CAUTION


Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a crash.


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12. Reinstall the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.


13. Turn the jack handle


counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


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{ CAUTION


Incorrect or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 10-2 for wheel nut torque specification.


Improperly tightened


Notice: wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 10-2 for the wheel nut torque specification.


14. Tighten the wheel nuts firmly


in a crisscross sequence as shown.


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Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools Storing the Compact Spare Tire


{ CAUTION


Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


2. Place the jack (B) back in its original location on the driver side of the cargo area and close the latch over the jack (B).


3. Place the compact spare tire (A),


valve stem pointed down, back in its original location in the center of the cargo area.


4. Turn the tire/wheel retainer


nut (D) clockwise to secure it on the compact spare tire (A). 5. Close the cargo area floor (C).


Storing the Full-Size Flat Tire


{ CAUTION


Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


2009 - Pontiac Vibe Owner Manual


A. Compact Spare Tire


(Valve Stem Pointed Down)


B. Jack C. Cargo Area Floor D. Tire/Wheel Retainer Nut E. Jack Handle F. Wheel Wrench


1. Place the jack handle (E) and wheel wrench (F) back in their original location in the passenger side of the cargo area.


Vehicle Service and Care


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4. Hook the end closest to the


buckle, to the front cargo hooks.


5. Pass the straps through the


center hole of the wheel.


6. Attach the other end of the straps to the cargo hooks.


7. Position the tire edge against the rear center end of the floor panel. Pull the end of the straps to make sure the tire is secure.


Store the compact spare tire properly after use.


The standard tire cannot be stored in the compact spare tire storage area. To store the standard flat tire: 1. If your vehicle has aluminum


wheels, remove the center wheel cap before storing the flat tire. 2. Place the flat tire on the rear


cargo area floor panel with the valve stem facing up.


3. Use the tire tie-down straps located under the floor panel to secure the flat tire.


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Compact Spare Tire The compact spare tire was fully inflated when the vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (414 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is intended to perform well at speeds up to 50 mph (80 km/h), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can.


Notice: When the compact spare is installed, do not take the vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails which can damage the tire, wheel and other parts of the vehicle. Do not use your compact spare on other vehicles. Do not mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains will not fit the compact spare. Using them can damage the vehicle and can damage the chains too. Do not use tire chains on the compact spare.


Return the jack and tools to the left side of the compartment after use.


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Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must


have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s


Notice: system is not a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.


To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


Notice: If you leave the radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both


vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{ CAUTION


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:129) They contain acid that can


burn you.


(cid:129) They contain gas that can


explode or ignite.


(cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


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4. Open the hoods and locate the


batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 9-6 for more information on location.


{ CAUTION


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{ CAUTION


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light.


(Continued)


CAUTION (Continued)


Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


{ CAUTION


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables


do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


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6. Connect the red positive (+)


cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end


touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


1.8 L4 Engine


8. To access the remote negative


on the 1.8L engine, the cover will need to be removed. To remove the engine cover raise the rear of the engine cover to remove the rear clips and the front of the engine cover to remove the two front clips


2.4L L4 Engine Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


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Vehicle Service and Care


9. Connect the other end of the


negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the


good battery and run the engine for a while.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal


Engine Part


B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery


11. Try to start the vehicle that had


the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


If the jumper cables are


Notice: connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−)


cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−)


cable from the vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+)


cable from the other vehicle.


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are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What is the towing capacity


of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:129) How far will you tow? Some


vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.


(cid:129) Do you have the proper towing


equipment? See your dealer/ retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you will want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See “Before Leaving On A Long Trip” in the Index.


Dinghy Towing If your vehicle has an automatic transmission, it cannot be dinghy towed. See “Dolly Towing” for more information regarding towing your vehicle. If your vehicle has a manual transmission, it can be dinghy towed.


Towing Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 12-5. To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing


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Dolly Towing (Front-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Only)


When dinghy towing, be sure to follow the posted legal speed limit. 1. Put the shift lever in Neutral. 2. Turn the ignition to


ACC/ACCESSORY to avoid locking the steering wheel. Make sure the audio system is turned off and that nothing is plugged into the power outlets.


3. Release the parking brake. After dinghy towing, let the engine idle for more than three minutes before driving the vehicle.


Do not tow your vehicle from the rear. Your vehicle could be badly damaged and the repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Dolly Towing (All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles) All-wheel-drive vehicles must not be towed with two wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground.


To tow your front-wheel-drive vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Move the shift lever to P (Park)


for an automatic transmission or Neutral for a manual transmission.


3. Set the parking brake.


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CAUTION (Continued)


injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.


Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the vehicle trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling,


acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That is the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. In addition, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.


4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing.


5. Remove the key from the


ignition.


6. Secure the vehicle to the dolly. 7. Release the parking brake.


Towing a Trailer


{ CAUTION


The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously


(Continued)


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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:129) Consider using a sway control. Ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.


(cid:129) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.


Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. (cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions


when towing a trailer. Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts.


Three important considerations have to do with weight:


the weight of the trailer the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information.


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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Vehicle Service and Care


9-79


And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 8-32 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


If using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B).


After the trailer is loaded, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers are located on the Tire and Loading Information label located on the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading the Vehicle on page 8-32. Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.


Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. You can ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 12-4 for more information.


Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle.


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Vehicle Service and Care


Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: (cid:129) Do not let the steel in a hitch contact the aluminum on your bumper because it can corrode. Use something like paint or plastic tape to separate the steel and aluminum. The same steel to aluminum problem can happen with fasteners too.


(cid:129) Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you do not seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the exhaust can get into your vehicle. See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index. Dirt and water can too.


Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Leave sufficient slack in the chain for turns. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you will be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. If you have antilock brakes, do not tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both systems will not work well, or at all.


Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch, platform and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.


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When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating.


Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.


Passing More distance in front is needed to pass when towing a trailer. And, because the tow vehicle and trailer are longer, you will need to go farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.


Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.


Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer/retailer. The arrows on the instrument panel flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also flash, telling other drivers you are about to turn, change lanes or stop.


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Parking on Hills


{ CAUTION


Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a flat surface.


To park your rig on a hill: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift into P (Park) for an automatic transmission or into gear for a manual transmission, yet. When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.


2. Have someone place chocks


under the trailer wheels.


3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the regular brakes.


Then apply your parking brake and shift into P (Park) for an automatic transmission or R (Reverse) for a manual transmission.


5. Release the regular brakes. When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:


start your engine shift the transmission into gear release the parking brake


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is


clear of the chocks.


4. Stop and have someone pick up


and store the chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more

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