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CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it isn’t, your vehicle needs service.


NOTICE:


Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.


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NOTICE:


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture.


CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant.


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CAUTION: (Continued)


pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.


CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator


CAUTION: (Continued)


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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator


3. Fill the radiator with the proper coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture.


1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the


cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push


down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.


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4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the


FULL mark.


5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but


leave the radiator pressure cap off.


6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the


upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.


7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the ears on the pressure cap are in line with the vent tube.


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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.


CAUTION:


Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transaxle shift lever in PARK (P), or shift a manual transaxle to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).


3. Turn off the engine.


To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.


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The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.


Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jack, wheel wrench, jack handle and spare tire are stowed in the rear of the vehicle, underneath the floor of the cargo area. To remove the spare tire and tools do the following:


1. Turn the two lock knobs on the floor of the cargo area to UNLOCK.


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NOTICE:


Make sure to place the hook in the proper location in order to avoid damaging the vehicle. Be sure to remove the hook when finished and place it back in its original position before closing the liftgate.


3. Remove the jack from the tray on the right side of


the compartment and the jack handle and wheel wrench from the top side of the compartment.


2. Lift up the cargo area floor panel, remove the hook attached to the bottom side of the panel and hook it over the weatherstripping.


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4. Unscrew the center retaining nut and lift up the


plastic tray to expose the compact spare tire.


5. Unscrew the center bolt from the compact spare tire


and pull out the compact spare tire. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section for more information about the compact spare tire.


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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire


The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A), jack handle (B) and wheel wrench (C). 6. Attach the jack handle to the jack. 7. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the lift head.


1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts.


Don’t remove them yet.


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2. Position the jack and raise the jack lift head to fit


over the car flange between the two notches nearest the tire.


CAUTION:


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


CAUTION:


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.


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4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.


5. Remove any rust or dirt


from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.


3. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle


clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit underneath the wheel well.


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CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


CAUTION:


Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.


6. Reinstall the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the


nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.


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8. Tighten the wheel


nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.


7. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


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CAUTION:


NOTICE:


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index for the wheel nut torque specification.


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index for the wheel nut torque specification.


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Storing the Flat Tire and Tools


CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


Return the jack, jack handle and wheel wrench to the storage area. The compact spare tire storage area is designed only for the compact spare tire, the standard tire cannot be stored there. To store the flat tire do the following: 1. If your vehicle has aluminum wheels, remove the


center wheel cap before storing the flat tire.


2. Place the flat tire on the rear cargo area floor panel


with the outer side of the wheel facing up


3. Use the tire tie-down belts located under the floor


panel to secure the flat tire.


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4. Hook the belts (end closest to the buckle) to the rear,


upper tie-down hooks.


5. Pass the belts through the center hole of the wheel. 6. Attach the other end of the belts to the rear, lower


tie-down hooks.


7. Position the tire edge against the rear center end of


the floor panel. Pull the end of the belts to make sure the tire is secure.


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Storing the Spare Tire and Tools


CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


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A. Jack B. Wheel Wrench C. Bolt


D. Spare Tire E. Jack Handle F. Nut


Return the jack, jack handle, wheel wrench and compact spare tire to the storage area. When storing the compact spare tire, put it in place with the inner side of the wheel facing up. The compact spare tire storage area is designed only for the compact spare tire, the standard tire cannot be stored there.


Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 50 mph (80 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.


NOTICE:


When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.


Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.


NOTICE:


Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.


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NOTICE:


Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle. See “Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out.”


For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.


If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.


CAUTION:


If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


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Using the Recovery Hook


Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transaxle, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.


Your vehicle is equipped with a recovery hook. The recovery hook is provided at the front of your vehicle. It can only be used for pulling your vehicle out.


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CAUTION:


The recovery hook, when used, is under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hook at a sideways angle. The hook could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.


NOTICE:


Never use the recovery hook to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.


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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care


Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.


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Service Fuel Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Passenger Compartment Air Filter Automatic Transaxle Fluid Manual Transaxle Fluid Hydraulic Clutch All-Wheel Drive (Option) Engine Coolant Radiator Pressure Cap Power Steering Fluid


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Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Care of Safety Belts Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts


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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.


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CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index.


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Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 1.8L engine (VIN Code 8), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 1.8L H.O. DOHC engine (VIN Code L), use only premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 91 or higher. In an emergency, you may be able to use a lower octane -- as low as 87 -- if heavy knocking does not occur. Refill your tank with premium fuel as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. If you are using 91 octane or higher-octane fuel and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


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Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers’ Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.


In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.


Canada Only


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.


NOTICE:


Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.


Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.


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Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.


Filling Your Tank


CAUTION:


Fuel vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel.


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The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.


The fuel door release lever is located near the floor under the driver’s seat on the outboard side.


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While refueling, hang the fuel cap inside the fuel door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).


CAUTION:


If you get fuel on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.


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When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.


NOTICE:


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


D Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.


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Checking Things Under the Hood


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the release handle


inside the vehicle. It’s located below the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel.


CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


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4. Release the hood prop


rod from its retainer and put the hood prop rod into the slot in the hood. To insert the hood prop rod into the slot, move it straight up. If it is moved to the side or toward the inside of the vehicle, it may become detached.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle. Release the


secondary hood release by pulling up on the lever located near the middle of the hood.


3. Lift the hood.


Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Make sure to store the hood prop rod carefully back in its retainer before closing the hood to avoid damaging the vehicle.


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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood of the 1.8 L (Code 8) engine, you’ll see the following:


A. Windshield Washer


Fluid Reservoir


B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir C. Radiator Pressure Cap D. Engine Oil Dipstick 6-12


E. Coolant Recovery Tank F. Engine Oil Fill Cap G. Automatic Transaxle Fluid


Dipstick (If Equipped)


H. Brake/Hydraulic Clutch


Fluid Reservoir


I. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter J. Battery K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block


When you open the hood of the 1.8 L (Code L) H.O. DOHC engine, you’ll see the following:


A. Windshield Washer Fluid


Reservoir


B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir C. Radiator Pressure Cap D. Engine Oil Dipstick


E. Coolant Recovery Tank F. Engine Oil Fill Cap G. Automatic Transaxle Fluid


Dipstick (If Equipped)


H. Brake/Hydraulic Clutch Fluid


Reservoir


I. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter J. Battery K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block


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Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.


Engine Oil


If the engine oil pressure light appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “Engine Oil Pressure Light” in the Index.


You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.


1.8L Code 8 engine shown, 1.8L Code L engine similar


The engine oil dipstick is located in the center of the engine compartment. The dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


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Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


1.8L (Code L) Engine


1.8L (Code 8) Engine


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When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the lower mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.


NOTICE:


Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


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The engine oil fill cap is located in the center of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.


If you choose to perform the engine oil change service yourself, be sure the oil you use has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.


You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the viscosity chart.


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As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle. You should look for and use only oils which have the API Starburst symbol and which are also identified as SAE 5W-30. If you cannot find such SAE 5W-30 oils, you can use an SAE 10W-30 oil which has the API Starburst symbol, if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. Do not use other viscosity grade oils, such as SAE 10W-40 or SAE 20W-50 under any conditions.


NOTICE:


Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.


GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


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What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: D Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is


particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.


D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent


driving in stop-and-go traffic).


D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of


your vehicle.


D The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi


or other commercial application.


Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower.


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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


To check or replace the filter, do the following:


The engine air cleaner/filter is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


1. Release the two clips that hold the cover down. 2. Lift the cover off. 3. Pull out the engine air cleaner/filter. 4. Install a new engine air cleaner/filter, if needed. 5. Reinstall the cover.


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Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


NOTICE:


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.


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Passenger Compartment Air Filter Passenger compartment air, both outside and recirculated air, is routed through a passenger compartment air filter. The filter removes certain contaminants from the air, including pollen and dust particles. Reductions in airflow, which may occur more quickly in dusty areas, indicate that the filter needs to be replaced early. An air filter is available through your dealer. For how often to change the air filter, see “Maintenance Schedule” in the Index. The access panel for the air filter is behind the glove box. To replace the filter, follow these steps:


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1. Lower the glove box door and remove the screw on the right side of the glovebox with a tool. Slide the arm of the glovebox off.


2. Push each side of the glovebox in and pull


toward you.


3. Lift the snaps on the filter cover to remove the cover.


4. Remove the air filter. 5. Reverse the steps to install the new air filter. Once you remove the old air filter, if you choose not to replace it, it will not damage your vehicle. However, the air will no longer be filtered.


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Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Check the fluid in the transaxle and differential every 30,000 miles (50 000 km). Change the fluid every 60,000 miles (100 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature


regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.


D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.


NOTICE:


Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.


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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 158_F to 176_F (70_C to 80_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to drive longer.


Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine


running.


D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).


D Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.


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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


The automatic transaxle dipstick has an orange handle and is located near the front of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


1. Release the tab and pull out the dipstick and wipe it


with a clean rag or paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


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3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower


level. The fluid level must be between the two dimples in the hot range.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place.


How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the area between dimples on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the


dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.


NOTICE:


We recommend you use only fluid labeled AC Delco T-IV, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than AC Delco T-IV is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.


3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as


described under “How to Check.”


4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place.


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Manual Transaxle Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transaxle doesn’t require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Pontiac dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.


NOTICE:


Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.


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Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transaxle is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transaxle case. Then, follow these steps: 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of


the filler plug hole.


3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure


it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.


How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated.


Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check the fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. The clutch and brake master cylinder use the same reservoir. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


When to Check and What to Use


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


How to Check and Add Fluid Check to make sure that the fluid level is at or above the MIN mark. If the level is below the MIN mark, see the instructions on the reservoir cap.


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All-Wheel Drive (Option) If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case (Power Transfer Unit)


When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.


How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


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Carrier Assembly-Differential (Rear Drive Module)


When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. A fluid loss could indicate a problem; check and have it repaired, if needed.


What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as


they should.


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NOTICE:


If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.


If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.


NOTICE:


If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half coolant that meets GM Specification 1825-M, which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to GM Specification 1825-M with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.


CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant.


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Checking Coolant


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at LOW, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL, or a little higher.


CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.


Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.


CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see “Cooling System” in the Index.


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Radiator Pressure Cap


NOTICE:


Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.


See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


Power Steering Fluid When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location.


The power steering fluid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.


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How To Check Power Steering Fluid You can check your fluid without taking the cap off. Just look at the reservoir. D When the engine compartment is hot, the level


should be between the HOT marks.


D When the engine compartment is cool, the level


should be between the COLD marks.


What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


NOTICE:


When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location.


Adding Washer Fluid


Canada Only


The low windshield washer fluid level warning light will come on when the fluid level is too low. See “Low Windshield Washer Fluid Level Warning Light” in the Index.


The windshield washer fluid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.


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NOTICE:


D When using concentrated washer fluid,


follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.


D Fill your washer fluid tank only


three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.


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United States


Canada


When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.


So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


NOTICE:


D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage


brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.


D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.


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Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. If you have rear drum brakes, they don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.”


Brake Wear The GT Series has four-wheel disc brakes. All other models have front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).


CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


NOTICE:


Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


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Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then -- very carefully -- make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts.


If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for battery location. WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


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Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. For the type of bulb to use, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. Halogen Bulbs


CAUTION:


CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods.


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Headlamps


To replace the headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood and locate the lamp assembly.


A. Headlamp B. Turn Signal Lamp


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2. Remove the rubber cover and socket from the


headlamp.


3. Release the retainer clip holding the bulb by pressing down and moving the metal retainer away from you.


4. Pull the bulb out of the fixture. 5. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.


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Front Turn Signal Lamps To replace the front turn signal lamp bulbs, do the following: 1. See “Headlamps” for location. 2. Locate the turn signal bulb. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out


of the lamp housing.


4. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.


Rear Combination Lamps To replace the turn signal and brake lamp bulbs, do the following:


A. Brake Lamp B. Turn Signal Lamp


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2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing.


3. Pull the bulb straight out


of the socket.


1. Access the bulbs through the storage compartment in


the rear cargo area of the vehicle. Remove the storage compartment cover.


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4. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. 5. Reinstall the cover.


Back-up Lamps


The back-up lamp bulb is located below the rear combination lamps.


2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing.


To replace the back-up lamp bulb, do the following:


1. Reach up under the rear


fascia to locate the back-up lamp housing.


3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb.


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Center High-Mounted Stoplamps (CHMSL) To replace the center high-mounted stoplamp bulb, do the following: 1. The bulb is located on the inside of the liftgate


liftglass near the top. Remove the two clips on both sides of the cover and remove it.


2. Unscrew the two screws from the CHMSL housing


and remove the housing to expose the bulb.


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3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out


of the lamp housing.


Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the


windshield.


4. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 5. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in the Index for more information.


2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly


toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.


3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.


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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Pontiac Warranty booklet for details.


CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.


CAUTION: (Continued)


CAUTION: (Continued)


D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.


D Overinflated tires are more likely to be


cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your


tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


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High Performance Tire (Option) If this vehicle has the optional 17-inch P215/50ZR17
size tires, they are “high performance” tires. High performance tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement, but they may not offer the traction you would like on snow or ice covered roads. You may also notice more road noise with high performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Also, see “Tire Inspection and Rotation” later in this section or in the Index. For cold weather driving conditions, you may prefer to get tires designed for snow or ice. See your Pontiac dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see “Buying New Tires” later in this section or in the Index. Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label, which is in your glove compartment, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).


NOTICE:


Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards


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When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).


How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.


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Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.


CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.


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When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. If your vehicle has P215/502R17
tires, they must roll in a certain direction for the best overall performance. The direction is shown by an arrow on the sidewall. Because these tires are directional, they should be rotated as shown here. These tires should only be moved from front to rear and rear to front on the same side of the vehicle.


When It’s Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places


around the tire.


D You can see cord or fabric showing through the


tire’s rubber.


D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep


enough to show cord or fabric.


D The tire has a bump, bulge or split. D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that


can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


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CAUTION:


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. Make sure the replacements are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.


CAUTION:


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare, though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.


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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements.


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.


Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


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Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


CAUTION:


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.


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NOTICE:


The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.


See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.


Used Replacement Wheels


CAUTION:


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


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Tire Chains


CAUTION:


If your vehicle has P215/50ZR17 size tires, don’t use tire chains, there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels.


CAUTION: (Continued)


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CAUTION: (Continued)


If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires for front-wheel-drive vehicles. If your vehicle has all-wheel drive, install traction devices on either the front tires or all four tires, but never on the rear tires only.


NOTICE:


If your vehicle has P205/55R16 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires, or for all-wheel-drive vehicles, the front or all four (but never rear only) tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.


Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: D Gasoline D Benzene D Naphtha D Carbon Tetrachloride D Acetone D Paint Thinner


D Turpentine D Lacquer Thinner D Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too. Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: D Alcohol D Laundry Soap D Bleach D Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth.


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Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Here are some cleaning tips: D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. D Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. D Carefully scrape off any excess stain. D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean


area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.


D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the


entire area immediately or it will set.


Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section.


Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.


3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate


the material and don’t rub it roughly.


5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge


to remove any excess cleaner.


6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened


towel or cloth.


7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.


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Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the


soiled area with cool water.


2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions


described earlier.


3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.


4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to dry


completely.

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