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more than 17,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with about 250,000 people injured. For persons under 21, it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological, and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord, or heart.


This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.


Control of a Vehicle The following three systems help to control the vehicle while driving — brakes, steering, and accelerator. At times, as when driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. Meaning, you can lose control of the vehicle. See StabiliTrak® System on page 4-5. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect vehicle performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.


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Braking See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-38. Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. Deciding to push the brake pedal is perception time. Actually doing it is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between the vehicle and others is important.


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And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied. Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool between hard stops. The brakes will wear out much faster with a lot of heavy braking. Keeping pace with the traffic and allowing realistic following distances eliminates a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If the engine ever stops while the vehicle is being driven, brake normally but do not pump the brakes. If the brakes are pumped, the pedal could get harder to push down.


If the engine stops, there will still be some power brake assist but it will be used when the brake is applied. Once the power assist is used up, it can take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect vehicle performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.


Antilock Brake System (ABS) This vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an advanced electronic braking system that helps prevent a braking skid. When the engine is started and the vehicle begins to drive away, ABS checks itself. A momentary motor or clicking noise might be heard while this test is going on, and it might even be noticed that the brake pedal moves a little. This is normal.


If there is a problem with ABS, this warning light stays on. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) Warning Light on page 3-39. Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that the wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel. ABS can change the brake pressure to each wheel, as required, faster than any driver could. This can help the driver steer around the obstacle while braking hard.


As the brakes are applied, the computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: ABS does not change the time needed to get a foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, there will not be enough time to apply the brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even with ABS.


Using ABS Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let antilock work. The antilock pump or motor operating might be heard and the brake pedal might be felt to pulsate, but this is normal.


Braking in Emergencies ABS allows the driver to steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help more than even the very best braking.


Brake Assist This vehicle has a Brake Assist feature designed to assist the driver in stopping or decreasing vehicle speed in emergency driving conditions. This feature uses the stability system hydraulic brake control module to supplement the power brake system under conditions where the driver has quickly and forcefully applied the brake pedal in an attempt to quickly stop or slow down the vehicle. The stability system hydraulic brake control module increases brake pressure at each corner of the vehicle until the ABS activates. Minor brake pedal pulsations or pedal movement during this time is normal and the driver should continue to apply the brake pedal as the driving


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situation dictates The Brake Assist feature will automatically disengage when the brake pedal is released or brake pedal pressure is quickly decreased.


StabiliTrak® System The vehicle has the StabiliTrak system which combines antilock brake, traction and stability control systems and helps the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle in most driving conditions. When you first start the vehicle and begin to drive away, the system performs several diagnostic checks to ensure there are no problems. The system may be heard or felt while it is working. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with the vehicle. The system should initialize before the vehicle reaches 20 mph (32 km/h). In some cases, it may take approximately two miles (3.2 km) of driving before the system initializes.


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If the system fails to turn on or activate, the StabiliTrak light along with one of the following messages will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC): TRACTION CONTROL OFF, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK. If these conditions are observed, turn the vehicle off, wait 15 seconds, and then turn it back on again to reset the system. If any of these messages still appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC), the vehicle should be taken in for service. For more information on the DIC messages, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-47.


The StabiliTrak light will flash on the instrument panel cluster when the system is both on and activated.


The system may be heard or felt while it is working; this is normal.


The traction control disable button is located on the instrument panel below the climate controls. The traction control part of StabiliTrak can be turned off by pressing and releasing the traction control disable button. Traction control can be turned on by pressing and releasing the traction control disable button if not automatically shut off for any other reason. When the traction control system is turned off, the StabiliTrak light and the appropriate traction control off message will be displayed on the DIC to warn the driver.


The vehicle will still have brake-traction control when traction control is off, but will not be able to use the engine speed management system. See “Traction Control Operation” next for more information. When the traction control system has been turned off, system noises may be heard and felt as a result of the brake-traction control working. It is recommended to leave the system on for normal driving conditions, but it may be necessary to turn the system off if the vehicle is stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, and you want to “rock” the vehicle to attempt to free it. It may also be necessary to turn off the system when driving in extreme off-road conditions where high wheel spin is required. See If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-15.


Traction Control Operation The traction control system is part of the StabiliTrak system. Traction control limits wheel spin by reducing engine power to the wheels (engine speed management) and by applying brakes to each individual wheel (brake-traction control) as necessary. The traction control system is enabled automatically when the vehicle is started. It will activate and the StabiliTrak light will flash if it senses that any of the wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction while driving. If traction control is turned off, only the brake-traction control portion of traction control will work. The engine speed management will be disabled. In this mode, engine power is not reduced automatically and the driven wheels can spin more freely. This can cause the brake-traction control to activate constantly.


Notice: If the wheel(s) of one axle is allowed to spin excessively while the StabiliTrak, ABS and brake warning lights and any relevant DIC messages are displayed, the transfer case could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Reduce engine power and do not spin the wheel(s) excessively while these lights and messages are displayed. The traction control system may activate on dry or rough roads or under conditions such as heavy acceleration while turning or abrupt upshifts/downshifts of the transmission. When this happens, a reduction in acceleration may be noticed, or a noise or vibration may be heard. This is normal. If cruise control is being used when the system activates, the StabiliTrak light will flash and cruise control will automatically disengage.


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Cruise control may be reengaged when road conditions allow. See Cruise Control on page 3-9. StabiliTrak may also turn off automatically if it determines that a problem exists with the system. If the problem does not clear itself after restarting the vehicle, see your dealer/retailer for service.


All-Wheel Drive (AWD) System If the vehicle has this feature, engine power is sent to all four wheels when extra traction is needed. This is like four-wheel drive, but there is no separate lever or switch to engage or disengage the axle. It is fully automatic, and adjusts itself as needed for road conditions. When using a compact spare tire on the AWD equipped vehicle, the AWD system automatically detects the presence of the compact spare and the AWD is disabled.


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To restore the AWD operation and prevent excessive wear on the AWD system, replace the compact spare with a full-size tire as soon as possible. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-79 for more information.


Steering Power Steering If power steering assist is lost because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, the vehicle can be steered but it will take more effort.


Variable Effort Steering If the vehicle has this steering system, the system continuously adjusts the effort felt when steering at all vehicle speeds. It provides ease when parking, yet a firm, solid feel at highway speeds.


Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. Traction in a curve depends on the condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and vehicle speed. While in a curve, speed is the one factor that can be controlled. If there is a need to reduce speed, do it before entering the curve, while the front wheels are straight. Try to adjust the speed so you can drive through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.


Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. These problems can be avoided by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot stop in time because there is no room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. The vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First, apply the brakes. See Braking on page 4-3. It is better to remove as much speed as possible from a collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.


Off-Road Recovery The vehicle’s right wheels can drop off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while driving.


An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, it can be turned a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.


If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that the vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. Turn the steering wheel 3 to 5 inches, 8 to 13 cm, (about one-eighth turn) until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.


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Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing:


Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait. (cid:129) Watch for traffic signs,


pavement markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane.


(cid:129) Do not get too close to the


vehicle you want to pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility. (cid:129) Wait your turn to pass a slow


vehicle.


(cid:129) When you are being passed,


ease to the right.


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Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.


Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to the vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling.


While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You might not realize the surface is slippery until the vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.


In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. If the vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, the vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance is longer and vehicle control more limited.


Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside rearview mirror.


(cid:129) Slow down and keep more space


between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.


(cid:129) Watch for animals. (cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps.


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(cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass


on your vehicle clean — inside and out.


(cid:129) Keep your eyes moving,


especially during turns or curves. No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.


Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.


{ CAUTION


Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.


Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping


equipment in good shape.


(cid:129) Keep the windshield washer fluid


reservoir filled.


(cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread


depth. See Tires on page 5-37. Turn off cruise control.


Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows clean — inside and outside?


(cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to recommended pressure?


(cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to


travel? Have up-to-date maps?


Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead and to the sides.


(cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and


vehicle instruments often.


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle serviced


and in good shape.


(cid:129) Check all fluid levels and brakes,


tires, cooling system, and transmission.


(cid:129) Going down steep or long hills,


shift to a lower gear.


{ CAUTION


If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.


{ CAUTION


Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.


(cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).


(cid:129) Pay attention to special road


signs (falling rocks area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.


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Winter Driving Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.


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The StabiliTrak® System on page 4-5 improves the ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When driving through deep snow, turn off the traction control part of the StabiliTrak® System to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4 improves vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.


Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:


Turn on the Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-5. Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.


{ CAUTION


Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death.


(Continued)


CAUTION (Continued)


If the vehicle is stuck in the snow: (cid:129) Clear away snow from around


the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe.


(cid:129) Check again from time to


time to be sure snow does not collect there.


(cid:129) Open a window about


two inches (5 cm) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air.


(cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or


under the instrument panel. (cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control


system to a setting that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.


(Continued)


(cid:129) (cid:129) CAUTION (Continued)


For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-30. Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust.


Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful. To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat. Repeat this


until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel.


If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-16. If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system in the Index.


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If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.


{ CAUTION


If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-56.


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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-20.


Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.


{ CAUTION


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your


(Continued)


CAUTION (Continued)


vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


Tire and Loading Information Label


Example Label


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar) of your vehicle.


With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-37 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-43. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section.


Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.


2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.


4. The resulting figure equals


the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).


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5. Determine the combined


weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a


trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity for your vehicle.


See Towing a Trailer on page 4-24 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.


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Driving Your Vehicle


Example 1


Example 2


Example 3


A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for


Example 1 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).


B. Subtract Occupant Weight


150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = 300 lbs (136 kg).


C. Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = 700 lbs (317 kg).


A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for


Example 2 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).


B. Subtract Occupant Weight


150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = 750 lbs (340 kg).


C. Available Cargo


Weight = 250 lbs (113 kg).


A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for


Example 3 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).


B. Subtract Occupant Weight


200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).


C. Available Cargo


Weight = 0 lbs (0 kg).


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{ CAUTION


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.


The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer/retailer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle.


Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight. Certification/Tire Label


Label Example


A vehicle specific Certification/ Tire label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door.


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Driving Your Vehicle


If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.


{ CAUTION


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:129) Put things in the cargo


area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.


(Continued)


CAUTION (Continued)


(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


(cid:129) Do not leave an


unsecured child restraint in your vehicle.


(cid:129) When you carry something


inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to.


Towing Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes, such as behind a motorhome, see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing. Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly.


Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What is the towing capacity of the


towing vehicle? Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:129) What is the distance that will be travelled? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. Is the proper towing equipment going to be used? See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-12.


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4-21


Dinghy Towing


If the vehicle is front-wheel-drive, it can be dinghy towed from the front. These vehicles may also be towed by putting the front wheels on a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” later in this section. If the vehicle is all-wheel-drive, it can be dinghy towed from the front. These vehicles can also be towed by placing them on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground. These vehicles cannot be towed using a dolly.


(cid:129) (cid:129) 4-22


Driving Your Vehicle


For vehicles being dinghy towed, the vehicle should be run at the beginning of each day and at each RV fuel stop for about five minutes. This will ensure proper lubrication of transmission components. Re-install the fuse to start the vehicle. To tow the vehicle from the front with all four wheels on the ground: 1. Position the vehicle to tow


and then secure it to the towing vehicle.


2. Shift the transmission to


P (Park) and turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.


3. Set the parking brake. 4. Turn the ignition to ACC/ACCESSORY.


5. Shift the transmission to


N (Neutral).


6. To prevent the battery from draining while the vehicle is being towed, remove the 50 amp BATT1 fuse from the underhood fuse block and store in a safe location. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-90.


If the vehicle is


7. Release the parking brake. Notice: towed without performing each of the steps listed under “Dinghy Towing,” the automatic transmission could be damaged. Be sure to follow all steps of the dinghy towing procedure prior to and after towing the vehicle.


If 65 mph (105 km/h) is


Notice: exceeded while towing the vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing the vehicle. Once the destination is reached: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Reinstall the 50 amp BATT1 fuse


to the underhood fuse block.


3. Shift the transmission to P (Park),


turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF and remove the key from the ignition.


4. Disconnect the vehicle from the


towing vehicle.


Notice: Do not tow a vehicle with the front drive wheels on the ground if one of the front tires is a compact spare tire. Towing with two different tire sizes on the front of the vehicle can cause severe damage to the transmission.


Dolly Towing (All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles)


Dolly Towing (Front-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Only)


Driving Your Vehicle


4-23


4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing.


5. Remove the key from the


ignition.


6. Secure the vehicle to the dolly. 7. Release the parking brake.


All-wheel-drive vehicles must not be towed with two wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground or dinghy towed from the front.


To tow a front-wheel-drive vehicle from the front with two wheels on the ground: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Move the shift lever to P (Park). 3. Set the parking brake.


4-24


Driving Your Vehicle


Towing the Vehicle From the Rear


Notice: Towing the vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Never have the vehicle towed from the rear. Do not tow the vehicle from the rear.


Towing a Trailer


{ CAUTION


The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.


To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section.


Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for the safety of the driver and the passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.


Pulling A Trailer Here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:129) Consider using a sway control.


See “Hitches” later in this section.


(cid:129) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-25


(cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions


when towing a trailer. The vehicles can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. See “Tow/Haul Mode” later in this section. The vehicle is designed primarily as a passenger and load carrying vehicle. If a trailer is towed, the vehicle will require more frequent maintenance due to the additional load.


Three important considerations have to do with weight:


The weight of the trailer. The weight of the trailer tongue. (cid:129) And the weight on the vehicle’s


tires


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) 4-26


Driving Your Vehicle


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the


amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment.


The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Use the following chart to determine how much the vehicle can weigh, based upon the vehicle model and options.


Vehicle


Maximum Trailer Weight


*GCWR


Front-Wheel Drive Front-Wheel Drive, V92 Trailer Towing Package All-Wheel Drive All-Wheel Drive, V92 Trailer Towing Package *The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for the vehicle should not be exceeded.


2,000 lbs (907 kg) 4,500 lbs (2 041 kg) 2,000 lbs (907 kg) 4,500 lbs (2 041 kg)


7,500 lbs (3 402 kg) 9,500 lbs (4 309 kg) 7,700 lbs (3 493 kg) 9,700 lbs (4 400 kg)


Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-5 for more information.


Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any


cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer


weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-16 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


If a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch is being used, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10-15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B).


Driving Your Vehicle


4-27


The trailer rating should be:


Expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle is greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).


After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may also be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce the trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg).


4-28


Driving Your Vehicle


If the vehicle has many options and there is a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. 300 lbs (136 kg) could be added to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. The vehicle now weighs:


Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you might think 700 additional pounds (318 kg) should be subtracted from the trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. The maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think the tongue weight should be limited to


less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But the effect on the rear axle must still be considered. Because the rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), 900 lbs (408 kg) can be put on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight that can be handled. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, expect that the largest trailer the vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that the vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure it is not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh the vehicle and trailer.


Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Certification/Tire label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-16. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.


Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. Here are some rules to follow:


The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.


(cid:129) Driving Your Vehicle


4-29


(cid:129) Will any holes be made in the body of the vehicle when the trailer hitch is installed? If there are, then be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is removed. If the holes are not sealed, dirt, water, and deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the exhaust can get into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-30.


Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.


Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.


Trailer Brakes A loaded trailer that weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg) needs to have its own brake system that is adequate for the weight of the trailer. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed, adjusted and maintained properly. Because the vehicle has antilock brakes, do not try to tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all.


Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.


And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.


Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.


4-30


Driving Your Vehicle


Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane.


Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.


Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.


When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel flash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also flash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


Driving on Grades Because of the added load of the trailer, the vehicle’s engine may overheat on hot days, when going up a long or steep grade with a trailer. If the engine coolant temperature gage indicates overheating, turn off the air conditioning to reduce engine load, pull off the road and stop in a safe spot. Let the engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with the transmission in P (Park) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the vehicle speed to around 55 mph (88 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating.


Tow/Haul Mode Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. The purpose of the Tow/Haul mode is to: (cid:129) Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.


(cid:129) Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded. Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Increase the charging system voltage to assist in recharging a battery installed in a trailer.


Press this button located on the console to turn on and turn off the Tow/Haul mode. The Tow/Haul light on the instrument panel will come on to indicate that Tow/Haul mode has been selected. Tow/Haul may be turned off by pressing the button again, at which time the indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off Tow/Haul every time it is started. Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR).


Driving Your Vehicle


4-31


See Weight of the Trailer earlier in this section. Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: (cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a


large or heavy load through rolling terrain.


(cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a


large or heavy load in stop and go traffic.


(cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a


large or heavy load in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.


Operating the vehicle in Tow/Haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.


(cid:129) (cid:129) 4-32


Driving Your Vehicle


Parking on Hills


{ CAUTION


Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a flat surface.


If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do


not shift into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.


2. Have someone place chocks


under the trailer wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the brake pedal.


Then apply the parking brake and shift the transmission into P (Park).


5. Release the brake pedal.


Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal


while you:


start the engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is


clear of the chocks.


4. Stop and have someone pick up


and store the chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-3 for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid, engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.


Trailer Wiring Harness The vehicle is equipped with the following wiring harness for towing a trailer.


Basic Trailer Wiring The trailer wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector, is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to the vehicle’s frame.


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) The harness connector can be plugged into a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector available through your dealer/retailer. The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:129) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn


Signal


(cid:129) Brown: Taillamps (cid:129) Black: Ground


Light Green: Back-up Lamps


(cid:129) Red/Black: Battery Feed (cid:129) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake* *The fuse for this circuit is installed in the underhood electrical center, but the wires are not connected. They should be connected by your dealer/retailer or a qualified service center.


If the back-up lamp circuit is not functional, contact your dealer/retailer. If a remote (non-vehicle) battery is being charged, press the Tow/Haul mode switch located on the center console near the climate controls. This will boost the vehicle system voltage and properly charge the battery. If the trailer is too light for Tow/Haul mode, turn on the headlamps (Non-HID only) as a second way to boost the vehicle system and charge the battery. Electric Trailer Brake Control Wiring Provisions These wiring provisions for an electric trailer brake controller are included with the vehicle as part of the trailer wiring package.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-33


The instrument panel contains blunt cut wires behind the steering column for the electric trailer brake controller. The harness contains the following wires: (cid:129) Red/Black: Power Supply (cid:129) White: Brake Switch Signal (cid:129) Gray: Illumination (cid:129) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal (cid:129) Black: Ground The electric trailer brake controller should be installed by your dealer/retailer or a qualified service center. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing The cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-24.


(cid:129) 4-34


Driving Your Vehicle


✍ NOTES


Service and Appearance Care


Service Service ................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications .......................5-3
California Proposition 65
Warning .............................5-4
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements ........5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work ......................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle ..........5-5


Fuel Fuel ....................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ...................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ..........5-5
California Fuel ......................5-6
Additives ..............................5-6


Service and Appearance Care


5-1


Fuels in Foreign Countries ......5-7
Filling the Tank .....................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container ..........................5-10


Checking Things Under the Hood Checking Things Under the Hood ..........................5-10
Hood Release .....................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview ..........................5-12
Engine Oil ..........................5-13
Engine Oil Life System .........5-15
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter .......5-17
Automatic Transmission Fluid ................................5-18
Cooling System ...................5-19
...................5-19
Engine Coolant Engine Overheating .............5-24
Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode .................5-25
Power Steering Fluid ............5-26
Windshield Washer Fluid ......5-26
Brakes ...............................5-27
Battery ...............................5-30
Jump Starting .....................5-30


All-Wheel Drive All-Wheel Drive ...................5-35
Headlamp Aiming Headlamp Aiming ................5-35
Bulb Replacement ...............5-35
Bulb Replacement Halogen Bulbs ....................5-35
License Plate Lamp .............5-36
Replacement Bulbs ..............5-36
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement .....................5-36


Tires Tires ..................................5-37
Tire Sidewall Labeling ..........5-38
Tire Terminology and Definitions .........................5-40
Inflation - Tire Pressure ........5-43
Tire Pressure Monitor System .............................5-44
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation ..........................5-46
Tire Inspection and Rotation ............................5-50


5-2


Service and Appearance Care


When It Is Time for New Tires .........................5-51
Buying New Tires ................5-52
Different Size Tires and Wheels .............................5-53
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ............................5-54
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance .....................5-55
Wheel Replacement .............5-55
Tire Chains .........................5-56
If a Tire Goes Flat ...............5-57
Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit ..................5-58
Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit Storage ......5-66
Changing a Flat Tire ............5-66
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .........................5-67
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire ......5-70
Secondary Latch System ......5-74
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools .........5-76
Compact Spare Tire .............5-79


Appearance Care Interior Cleaning ..................5-80
Fabric/Carpet ......................5-81
Leather ..............................5-82
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces ........5-82
Care of Safety Belts ............5-82
Weatherstrips ......................5-83
Washing Your Vehicle ..........5-83
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ...................5-83
Finish Care .........................5-84
Windshield, Backglass, and Wiper Blades ....................5-84
Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels and Trim ...............5-85
Tires ..................................5-85
Sheet Metal Damage ...........5-86
Finish Damage ....................5-86
Underbody Maintenance .......5-86
Chemical Paint Spotting ........5-86
Vehicle Identification Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ....................5-87
Service Parts Identification Label


...............................5-87


Electrical System High Voltage Devices and Wiring ........................5-87
Add-On Electrical ........................5-88
Equipment Windshield Wiper Fuses .......5-88
Power Windows and Other Power Options ...................5-88
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ....5-88
Instrument Panel Fuse Block .......................5-88
Underhood Fuse Block .........5-90
Capacities and Specifications Capacities and Specifications ....................5-94


Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Service and Appearance Care


5-3


Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance

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