2003 Chevrolet Tracker Owners Manual

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Additional rear axle maintenance is required for a vehicle used to tow a trailer. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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Your vehicle can tow a trailer. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this section. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

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Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 600 miles (1000 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Never exceed posted towing speed limits or go over 45 mph (72 km/h), whichever is lower and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. If you have an automatic transmission, you can use THIRD (3) (or, as you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission. If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use the highest gear.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue

0 and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 Ibs. (450 kg) for two-door models and 1,500 Ibs. (680 kg) for four-door models. But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at: Chevrolet Chevrolet Customer Assistance P.O. Box 33170 Detroit, MI 48232-51 70 In Canada, write to: General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LIH 8P7 Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you

may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-47for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle.

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After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the tire-loading information label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see Tires on page 5-59. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

If you make holes in the body of your vehicle, be sure to seal them when you remove the trailering equipment. If you don’t seal them, dirt, water, and even deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-30.

Your vehicle is readily designed to accept a trailer hitch. The frame rail ends already have holes and weld nuts in place to accept the four bolts needed to attach the hitch bar. To help simplify setting up your trailer lights, there is a trailer wiring connector located behind the left rear trim panel. If needed, your dealer can provide help in removing the trim panel and accessing this wiring connector. Your vehicle’s trailer wiring has separate turn signal and brake light circuits, which means you will most likely need to purchase a converter to operate conventional trailer lights. Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

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Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 Ibs. (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own surge brakes. Tapping into your vehicle’s brake system is not recommended. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel may flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. If you are towing a trailer and you have a manual transmission with FIFTH (5) gear, you may prefer not to use FIFTH (5). Just drive in FOURTH (4) (or, as you need to, a lower gear).

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Parking on P I S

You really should not park your v d c l e , with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1.

Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual transmission. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P), or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.

2.

3.

4.

5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the

transfer case is in a drive gear - not in NEUTRAL.

6. Release the regular brakes.

Is

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: 0 start your engine,

shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the

chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Service ............................................................ 5.3 ......................... 5-4

Doing Your Own Service Work Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your

Vehicle .................................................. 5-4 Fuel ................................................................ 5-5 Gasoline Octane ............................................ 5-5 Gasoline Specifications .................................... 5-5 California Fuel ............................................... 5.6 Additives ....................................................... 5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ................ 5.6 Filling Your Tank ............ 5.7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container ........ 5.9

........ ........................

...

Checking Things Under

.................................. ............................

....... 5-10 the Hood Hood Release ....... 5.10 Engine Compartment Overview ....................... 5.12 Engine Oil ................................................... 5.15 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................ 5.21 Automatic Transmission Fluid ......................... 5.23 Manual Transmission Fluid ............................. 5.26 Hydraulic Clutch .......................................... 5-27 Engine Coolant ............................................. 5.28 Radiator Pressure Cap .................................. 5-30 Engine Overheating ....................................... 5.31 Cooling System ............................................ 5-33

Power Steering Fluid ..................................... 5.39 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................ 5-40 Brakes ........................................................ 5-41 Battery ........................................................ 5-44 Jump Starting ............................................... 5-45 Rear Axle ....................................................... 5-51 Four-wheel Drive ............................................ 5-52 Bulb Replacement ...................................... 5-54 Halogen Bulbs .................................. .... 5-54 Headlamps ............................................. 5-54 Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps .............. 5-56 Sidemarker Lamps ........................................ 5-56 Rear Combination Lamps ............................... 5-57 Replacement Bulbs ....................................... 5-58 Tires .............................................................. 5-59 Inflation -- Tire Pressure ................................ 5-60 Tire Inspection and Rotation ........................... 5-60 When It Is Time for New Tires ....................... 5-62 5-62 Buying New Tires ........................................ Uniform Tire Quality Grading .......................... 5-63 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance .................. 5-64 Wheel Replacement ...................................... 5-64 Tire Chains .............................................. 5-65 If a Tire Goes Flat ..... ........................ 5-66 Changing a Flat Tire .. .................... 5-66

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Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Appearance Care ............................................ 5.78 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle ................. 5-78 Care of Safety Belts ...................................... 5-81 Weatherstrips ............................................... 5-81 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle .............. 5-81 Sheet Metal Damage ..................................... 5-84 Finish Damage ............................................. 5-84 Underbody Maintenance ................................ 5-85 Chemical Paint Spotting ................................. 5-85 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ........... 5-85

Vehicle Identification ...................................... 5.87 ................. 5.87 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Service Parts Identification Label ..................... 5-87 Electrical System ............................................ 5.88 Add-on Electrical Equipment ...................... 5.88 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ........................ 5.88 Capacities and Specifications .......................... 5.92 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts .......... 5.95

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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.

We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

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Doing Your Own Service Work

If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7- 1 1. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-58. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Part E: Maintenance Record on page 6-32.

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You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

Canada Only

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California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction lndicator Lamp on page 3-32 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

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Notices Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

Filling Your Tank

Fuel vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel.

The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the passenger’s side of your vehicle.

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If you get fuel on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-81. When filling the tank do not overfill by squeezing in much more fuel after the pump shuts off.

‘hile refueling, place the fuel cap in the holder

provided. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

5-8

left off or improperly

fuel cap back on, turn it to the right

When you put the (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction lndicator Lamp on page 3-32. Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction lndicator Lamp” in the Index.

Fil’hg a Po-?tble Fuel Cor+^:ier

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

0 Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

5-9

Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

1. Pull the release handle located on the driver’s side of the vehicle on the lower portion of the instrument panel.

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. Don’t reach through the grille to release the underhood lever.

’

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

5-1 0

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle, pull up on the

hood, and push the hood release lever right.

to your

Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood.

sure all the filler caps

Before closing the hood, be are on. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then let the hood down and close it firmly.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.0L engine, you’ll see:

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A. Engine Compartment Fuse Block 6. Engine Air CleanedFilter C. Battery D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If Equipped) F. Radiator Pressure Cap

G. Engine Oil Dipstick H. Engine Oil Fill Cap I. Brake Fluid Reservoir J. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank K. Windshield Washer Reservoir

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When you open the hood on the 2.5L engine, you’ll see:

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A. Engine Compartment Fuse Block B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter C. Battery D. Radiator Pressure Cap E. Engine Oil Fill Cap F. Automatic Transmission Dipstick G. Engine Oil Dipstick H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir I. Brake Fluid Reservoir J. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank K. Windshield Washer Reservoir

Engine Oil

If the engine oil pressure light appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.

For more information, see Oil Pressure Light on page 3-35. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

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Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The handle of the engine oil dipstick is a round, yellow ring. On the 2.OL engine it is located near the center of the engine on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

2.0L Engine

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The handle of the engine oil dipstick is a round, yellow ring. On the 2.5L engine it is located near the front of the engine compartment towards the driver’s side of the vehicle.

2.5L Engine

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

2.OL Engine

I L----A

2.5L Engine

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the hole at the tip of the dipstick, then you’ll need to add up to two quarts of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-92.

Notice: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The engine oil fill cap is located in the front of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 for more information on location.

Be sure to fill it enough to put the level near the upper hole in the dipstick. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

If you choose to perform the engine oil change service yourself, be sure the oil you use has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the viscosity chart.

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RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

HOT

WEATHER

FOR MIS SYMBOL

LOOK

I- SAE

1 OW-30

ACCEPTABLE IF 5W-30 IS NOT AVAILABLE

SAE

RECOMMENDED

GOLD

WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER VISCOSITY GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle. You should look for and use only oils which have the API Starburst symbol and which are also identified as SAE 5W-30. If you cannot find such SAE 5W-30 oils, you can use an SAE IOW-30 oil which has the API Starburst symbol, if it's going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. Do not use other viscosity grade oils, such as SAE 1 OW-40 or SAE 20W-50 under any conditions. Notice: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

for

it is

GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29"C), recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don't add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

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What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

When to Change Engine Oil

If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule:

Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 7.5 months - whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

1. Release the four clips

on the cover.

2. Lift the cover up.

The engine air cleanedfilter is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. To check or replace the filter do the following:

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Operating the engine witl. -he air cleaner, ter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

Notice: If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleanedfilter in place when you’re driving.

3. Pull out the engine air cleanedfilter and check or

replace it.

4. Reinstall the cover and fasten the clips.

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Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

the outside temperature

In heavy city traffic where regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. When doing frequent trailer towing. Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Maintenance Requirements on page 6-2.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).

5-23

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The automatic transmission dipstick has a red ring handle located in the rear of the engine compartment toward the center of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on paqe 5-12 for more information on location.

2.0L Engine shown, 2.5L

Engine similar

1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (IO"C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

5-24

3.

4.

Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area for a hot check. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-30. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than 0.6 pints (0.3 L). Don’t overfill. Notice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@ -111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@ -111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way.

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Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your transmission fluid. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Sewices on page 6-4. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Chevrolet dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.

5-26

Then, follow these steps:

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of

the filler plug hole.

3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure

it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-30. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Remove the drain plug, drain the fluid and reinstall

the drain plug.

3. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough

fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

4. Reinstall the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully

seated.

Hydraulic Clutch It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-24 and Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-30.

5-27

How to Check and Add Fluid You do not need to check the fluid level unless you suspect a clutch problem. To check the fluid level, look at the markings on the reservoir. If the fluid reaches the MAX line, the fluid level is correct. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-3 1. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant will:

Give freezing protection down to -33°F (-36°C) Give boiling protection up to 258°F (125°C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

What to Use Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and coolant that meets GM Specification 1825-M, which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to GM Specification 1825-M with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50150 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant.

5-28

Checking Coolant

Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

Notice: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

The coolant recovery tank is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at LOW, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL, or a little higher.

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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper coolant mixture at the coolant recov--/ tank.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-33.

Radiator Pressure Cap

pressure cap vvIren the

TL 1 1 1 1 , ~ the r,,iatbl engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap little --when the engine and radiator are hot.

-- even a

Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

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See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for information on location. Notice: Your radiator cap is a 15.6 psi (1 10 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler.

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-3 1. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

Steam from an overheated en- l e can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

Notice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

5-31

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-32

Cooling System

When you decide it’s safe to lift the you’ll see:

hood, here’s what

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. Don’t reach through the grill to release the underhood lever.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

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Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the

vehicle. I

The coolant level should be at or above FULL. If it isn’t you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

5-34

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable wafer and a proper coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

Adding only plain water to your coo system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant.

Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

You can be -4rned if you s r J cool-.. .- - n hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the FULL mark, start your vehicle.

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If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

ng Steam and sca._..ng liquids from a h co system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

5-36

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

I . You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don't press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

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3.

4.

5.

Fill the radiator with the proper coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the FULL mark. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

6.

7.

Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

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8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during

this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

Power Steering Fluid When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for reservoir location.

5-39

Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid You can check your fluid without taking the cap off. The level should fall between the MIN and MAX marks on the reservoir. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-30. Notice: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

5-40

Notice:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system.

5-41

If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydr

system.

~~

Checking Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

(ou have too much

brake fl

an sp on

the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-28.

5-42

Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-30.

Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

With the wrong kind 01 ..did in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: 0 Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care’’ in the Index.

Brake Wear

Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

I-

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-o pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.

lut brake

5-43

Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-29. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your

5-44

vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery

Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco@ battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

that can ~. . I you and g

Batteries have --:id that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods.

Jump Starting

If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite.

0 They contain enough electricity to

burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

5-45

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminal locations on each battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for more information on battery location.

Ining, the

is air condi

f your vehicle auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will help reduce sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

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Using a n . x h near a battery can cause bL2ery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

)ther moving engine parts can

Fans c you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

re

ir

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to a positive (+) battery terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

5-47

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the

positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

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Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it

won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

.&

9. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

5-49

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following:

1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

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Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-28 and Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant.

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Remove the drain plug, drain the lubricant and

reinstall the drain plug.

3. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the

bottom of the filler plug hole.

4. Reinstall the filler plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-30.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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How to Check Lubricant

Four-wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Pati! A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-30.

5-52

Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-28 and Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Remove the drain plug, drain the lubricant and

reinstall the drain plug.

3. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant

to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

4. Reinstall the filler plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-30.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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Bulb Replacement For the type of bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-58. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

Halogen - ‘bs

Headlamps

Notice: When replacing your vehicle’s headlamp bulbs, make sure to follow the replacement specifications in this manual. Use of high intensity bulbs may damage your vehicle.

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

A. Headlamp B. Front Parking and Turn Signal Lamps

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To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood.

2. Remove the rubber

cover and socket from the headlamp.

3. Release the retainer clip holding the bulb by

pressing down and moving the metal retainer away from you.

4. Pull the bulb out of the fixture. 5. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.

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Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps To replace the parking and turn signal bulb, do the following:

1. See “Headlamps” for location.

Sidemarker Lamps

To replace the sidemarker bulb, do the following:

1. Remove the two screws holding the sidemarker lamp assembly. The assembly should pull away from the vehicle.

2. Turn the socket counterclockwise and pull it out of

the housing.

3. Pull the bulb out of the socket. 4. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.

2. Locate the turn signal bulb. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it

out of the lamp housing.

4. Push the bulb in, turn it counterclockwise and pull

the bulb straight out of the socket.

5. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.

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Rear Combination Lamps

To remove the rear combination bulbs, do the following:

A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Back-up Lamp C. Brake Lamp

Driver’s Side

Passenger’s Side

1. Remove the two screws from the combination lamps. Gently pull the housing away from the vehicle.

2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it

out of the lamp housing.

3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. 5. Reinstall the housing and the screws.

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Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp Back-up Lamp Front Turn Signal and Parking

Headlamps (Halogen)

Bulb Number 92 1 1157 NA GM Part No. 91 171 148 or equivalent

Rear Parking and Brake

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warrantv booklet for details.

I - DrIl ...__ are dangerous.

--ltained and improperl,

s e d tires

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

0 Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact - such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure

The Tire-Loading Information label, which is on the driver’s door lock pillar, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards

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When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (I 0 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-62 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-64 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services,” in Section 6, for scheduled rotation intervals.

Nhen rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire- Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheei nuts are properly tightened, See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-92.

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

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r s -

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. Buying New Tires

To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. Make sure the replacement tires are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your vehicle’s original tires.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: * You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.

Mixing tires could cause you tu lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires) the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.

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.. ,,J use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires.

While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor