2003 Chevrolet Tracker Owners Manual

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Certain power accessory plugs may not be compatible to the power accessory outlet and could result in blown vehicle or adapter fuses. If you experience a problem see your dealer for additional information on the power accessory plugs. When adding electrical equipment, be sure to follow the proper installation instructions included with the equipment. Notice: Adding some electrical equipment to your vehicle can damage it or keep other things from working as they should. This wouldn’t be cowered by your warranty. Check with your dealer before adding electrical equipment, and newer use anything that exceeds the amperage rating. Notice: Power outlets are designed for accessory plugs only. Do not hang any type of accessory or accessory bracket from the plug. Improper use of the power outlet can cause damage not covered by your warranty.

Ashtrays and Cigarette Lighter To use the lighter, if equipped, the ignition key must be in ON or ACC. Push the lighter in all the way and let go. When it’s ready, it will pop back out by itself. Pull the door to open the ashtray. To remove it, press down on the tab and pull the ashtray out. To reinstall the ashtray, push it in until the tab latches. The rear ashtray, if equipped, is on the back of the center console. Push on the left side of the ashtray. The ashtray will turn clockwise for usage. To remove the rear ashtray, press down on the tab and pull it out. Notice: Don’t put papers or other flammable items into your ashtrays. Hot cigarettes or other smoking materials could ignite them, causing a damaging fire.

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Climate Controls

Climate Control System With this system you can control the heating, cooling and ventilation for your vehicle.

Operation @ (Fan): Move the lever away from OFF to turn the system on. Slide the top right lever increase or decrease the fan speed.

to the left or right to

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If the airflow seems low when the fan is at the highest setting, the passenger compartment air filter, if equipped, may need to be replaced. For more information, see Passenger Compartment Air Filter on page 3-22 and Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-7. Slide the top left lever to the left or right to direct the airflow inside of your vehicle. To change the current mode, select one of the following: g (Vent): This mode directs air to the instrument panel outlets. y"i (Bi-Level): This mode directs most of the air to the instrument panel outlets, and then directs the remaining air to the floor outlets. $ (Floor): This mode directs half of the air to the floor outlets with some air directed to the outboard outlets (for the side windows) and some air directed to the windshield. This lever can also be used to select defog or defrost mode. Information on defogging and defrosting can be found later in this section.

a (Outside Air): Slide the lower right lever

right for outside air. With the lever in this position, outside air will circulate throughout your vehicle.

to the

&I (Recirculation): Slide the lower right lever to the left for recirculated air. With the lever in this position outside air and odors can be prevented from entering your vehicle and also helps heat or cool the air inside your vehicle more quickly. If the lever is in the middle of the two positions, you will have both outside and recirculated air inside your vehicle. If you are in city traffic, your vehicle is stopped and idling or the weather is hot, the system may be switched from the outside air mode to the recirculation mode. To help prevent the air inside of your vehicle from becoming too stale, be sure to return to outside air periodically.

Temperature Control: Slide the lever located lower left side to change the temperature. Move it to the right for warmer air and to the left for cooler air. Without air conditioning, the air temperature cannot be less than the outside air temperature.

on the

A K (Air Conditioning): Press this button to turn the air-conditioning system on or off. When N C is pressed, an indicator light in the button will come on to let you know that the air conditioning is activated. On hot days, open the windows to let hot inside air escape; then close them. This helps to reduce the time it takes for your vehicle to cool down. It also helps the system to operate more efficiently. For quick cool down on hot days: 1. Select the vent mode. 2. Select the recirculation mode. 3. Select N C . 4. Select the coolest temperature. 5. Select the highest fan speed. The air-conditioning system removes moisture from the air, so you may sometimes notice a small amount of water dripping underneath your vehicle while idling or after turning off the engine. This is normal.

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Defogging and Defrosting Fog on the inside of windows is a result of high humidity (moisture) condensing on the cool window glass. This can be minimized if the climate control system is used properly.There are two modes to clear fog or frost from your windshield. Use the defog mode to clear the windows of fog or moisture and warm the passengers. Use the defrost mode to remove fog or frost from the windshield more quickly. -7 (Defog): This mode directs the air between the windshield, side windows, instrument panel outlets and the floor outlets. The air-conditioning compressor will run automatically in this setting without pressing N C , unless the outside temperature is at or below

freezing. 9 (Defrost): This mode directs the air to the

windshield and the side windows. The air-conditioning compressor will run automatically in this setting without pressing N C , unless the outside temperature is at or below freezing. Do not drive the vehicle until all the windows are clear

Rear Window Defogger If your vehicle has this feature, the rear window defogger uses a warming grid to clear fog from the rear window.

The button is located on the center of the instrument panel, near the vehicle’s comfort controls.

The rear window defogger ignition is in ON.

will only work when the

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Outlet Adjustment

Use the air outlets located in the center and outboard sides of the instrument panel, to change the direction and amount of the air flowing through the vents.

(Rear Defogger): Press the defogger button to turn

the rear window defogger on or off. An indicator light in the button will come on to let your know that the rear window defogger is activated. Be sure to clear as much snow from the rear window as possible. The rear window defogger will turn off automatically approximately 15 minutes after the button is pressed. The defogger can also be turned off by pressing the button again or by turning off the engine.

Notice: Don’t use a razor blade or something else sharp on the inside of the rear window. If you do, you could cut or damage the defogger and the repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not attach a temporary vehicle license, tape, a decal or anything similar to the defogger grid.

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Operation Tips

Clear away any ice, snow or leaves from the air inlets at the base of the windshield that may block the flow of air into your vehicle. Use of non-GM approved hood deflectors may adversely affect the performance of the system. Keep the path under the front seats clear of objects to help circulate the air inside of your vehicle more effectively. If the airflow seems low when the fan is at the highest setting, the passenger compartment air filters, if equipped, may need to be replaced. For more information, see “Passenger Compartment Air Filter” following and Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-7.

Passenger Compartment Air Filter All models come equipped from the factory with a slot in the ventilation system that is ready to accept passenger compartment air filters. These filters are available for purchase from your dealer. You will need to install two filters to provide the proper filtration. Both outside and recirculated air flows through these filters and removes certain contaminates including pollen and dust particles. Reductions in airflow which occur more quickly in dusty areas, may indicate that the filters need to be replaced earlier than listed in the maintenance schedule. For how often to replace your air filters, see Maintenance Requirements on page 6-2. The access panel for the air filters is behind the glove box.

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To install the air filters, do the following:

1. Lower the glove box door, then push in the sides of the glove box to completely lower the door to allow access to the slot where the air filters will be installed.

2. Lift the top tab on the cover to remove the filter

cover.

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4. Then line up the grooves of the second filter with the

lower one and slide it in on top of the lower one.

5. Reverse the steps to remove the air filters and then

install new ones.

Once you remove the filter, if you choose not to replace it, it will not damage your vehicle. However, the air will no longer be filtered.

3. Install the lower filter by dropping it down into

the slot. The grooves on the two filters must be lined up with each other as well as with the ventilation housing in order to install the filters properly. The tabs on the filters should face outward towards you and should be at the top of the filters. The arrows on the filters should point to the driver’s side of the vehicle.

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Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators This part describes the warning lights and gages that may be on your vehicle. The pictures will help you locate them. Warning lights and gages can signal that something is wrong before it becomes serious enough to cause an expensive repair or replacement. Paying attention to your warning lights and gages could also save you or others from injury. Warning lights come on when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. As you will see in the details on the next few pages, some warning lights come on briefly when you start engine just to let you know they’re working. If you are familiar with this section, you should not be alarmed when this happens.

the

Gages can indicate when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. Often gages and warning lights work together to let you know when there’s a problem with your vehicle. When one of the warning lights comes on and stays on when you are driving, or when one of the gages shows there may be a problem, check the section that tells you what to do about it. Please follow this manual’s advice. Waiting to do repairs can be costly - and even dangerous. So please get to know your warning lights and gages. They’re a big help.

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Instrument Panel Cluster Your instrument cluster is designed to let you know at a glance how your vehicle is running. You’ll know how fast you’re going, about how much fuel you have left, and many other things you’ll need to know to drive safely and economically.

United States cluster shown, Canada similar

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Speedometer and Odometer

Tachometer

Your speedometer lets you see your speed in both miles per hour (mph) and kilometers per hour (km/h). Your odometer shows how far your vehicle has been driven, in either miles (used in the United States) or kilometers (used in Canada). Your vehicle’s odometer is tamper-resistant. You may wonder what happens if your vehicle needs a new odometer installed. The new one is set at zero. Then a label is attached on the driver’s door to show the old reading and when the new one was installed. Trip Odometer The trip odometer can tell you how far your vehicle has been driven since you last set the trip odometer to zero. The button located to the right of the odometer display allows you to switch between the odometer and the two trip odometers. Press the button once to switch to TRIP A and again to switch to TRIP B. To return the display to the odometer reading, press the trip odometer button again. To set the trip odometers to zero, press and hold the button.

The tachometer shows engine speed in thousands of revolutions per minute (rpm). You can use it while driving to select correct shift points. The tachometer may not return to zero when the engine is not running.

Notice: Do not operate the engine with the tachometer in the red area, or engine damage may occur.

Safety Belt Reminder Light When the key is turned to ON or START, a tone will come on for several seconds to remind people to fasten their safety belts, unless the driver’s safety belt is already buckled.

The safety belt light will also come on and stay on until the driver’s belt is buckled.

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Air Bag Readiness Light

There is an air bag readiness light on the instrument panel, which shows AIR BAG. The system checks the air bag’s electrical system for malfunctions. The light tells you if there is an electrical problem. The system check includes the air bag modules, and the crash sensing and diagnostic module. For more information on the air bag system, see Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) on page 1-51.

AIR BAG

This light will come on when you start your vehicle, and it will flash for a few seconds. Then the light should go out. This means the system is ready.

If the air bag readiness light stays on after you start the vehicle or comes on when you are driving, your air bag system may not work properly. Have your vehicle serviced right away.

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If the air bag readiness light stays on after you start your vehicle, it means the air bag system may not be working properly. The air bags in your vehicle may not inflate in a crash, or they could even inflate without a crash. To help avoid injury to yourself or others, have your vehicle serviced right away if the air bag readiness light stays on after you start your vehicle.

The air bag readiness light should flash for a few seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON. If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.

Charging System

This light will come on briefly when you turn on the ignition, but the engine is not running, as a check to show you it is working. Then it should go out when the engine starts.

If the light stays on or comes on while you are driving, you may have a problem with the electrical charging system. It could indicate that you have an electrical problem. Have it checked right away. Driving while this light is on could drain your battery. If you must drive a short distance with this light on, be certain to turn off all your accessories, such as the radio and air conditioner.

Brake System Warning Light When the ignition is on, the brake system warning light will come on when you set your parking brake. The light will stay on if your parking brake doesn’t release fully. If it stays on after your parking brake is fully released, it means you have a brake problem. Your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system is divided into two parts. If one part isn’t working, the other part can still work and stop you. For good braking, though, you need both parts working well. If the warning light comes on, there could be a brake problem. Have your brake system inspected right away.

BRAKE

United States

Canada

This light should come on when you turn the ignition key to START. If it doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there’s a problem.

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If the light comes on while you are driving, pull off the road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor. It may take longer to stop. If the light is still on, have the vehicle towed for service. See Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light on page 3-30 and Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-44.

’ Your brake system may not be working

properly if the brake system warning light is on. Driving with the brake system warning light on can lead to an accident. If the light is still

I on after you’ve pulled off the road and stopped

carefully, have the vehicle towed for service.

Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light

ABS

With the anti-lock brake system, this light will come on when you start your engine and it will stay on for three seconds. That’s normal.

If the light comes on when you’re driving, you don’t have anti-lock brakes and there could be a problem with your regular brakes. Pull off the road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor. It may take longer to stop. Have the vehicle towed for service. See Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-44.

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Your regular brake system may not be worl ....g properly if the anti-lock brake system warning light is on. Driving with the anti-lock brake system warning light on can lead to an accident. After you’ve pulled off the road and stopped carefully, have the vehicle towed for service.

possible and turn

If the anti-lock brake system warning light stays on longer than normal after you’ve started your engine, turn the ignition off. Or, if the light comes on and stays on when you’re driving, stop as soon as the ignition off. Then start the engine again to reset the system. If the light still stays on, or comes on again while you’re driving, your vehicle needs service. If the light is on and the regular brake system warning light isn’t on, you still have brakes, but you don’t have anti-lock brakes. The anti-lock brake system warning light should come on briefly when you turn the ignition key to ON. If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.

Engine Coolant Temperature Gage

This gage shows the engine coolant temperature. If the gage pointer moves to the H (red) side, your engine is too hot.

It means that your engine coolant has overheated and you should stop your vehicle and turn off the engine as soon as possible. See Engine Overheating on page 5-31.

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Malfunction Indicator Lamp Service Engine Soon Light

SERVICE ENGINE SOON

Your vehicle is equipped with a computer which monitors operation of the fuel, ignition and emission control systems.

This system is called OBD II (On-Board Diagnostics-Second Generation) and is intended to assure that emissions are at acceptable levels for the life of the vehicle, helping to produce a cleaner environment. The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light comes on to indicate that there is a problem and service is required. Malfunctions often will be indicated by the system before any problem is apparent. This may prevent more serious damage to your vehicle. This system is also designed to assist your service technician in correctly diagnosing any malfunction. Notice: If you keep driving your vehicle with this light on, after a while, your emission controls may not work as well, your fuel economy may not be as good and your engine may not run as smoothly. This could lead to costly repairs that may not be covered by your warranty. 3-32

Nofice: Modifications made to the engine, transmission, exhaust, intake or fuel system of your vehicle or the replacement of the original tires with other than those of the same Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) can affect your vehicle’s emission controls and may cause this light to come on. Modifications to these systems could lead to costly repairs not covered by your warranty. This may also result in a failure to pass a required Emission Inspection/Maintenance test. This light should come on, as a check to show you it is working, when the ignition is on and the engine is not running. If the light doesn’t come on, have it repaired. This light will also come on during a malfunction in one of two ways:

Light Flashing - A misfire condition has been detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions and may damage the emission control system on your vehicle. Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis and service may be required. Light On Steady - An emission control system malfunction has been detected on your vehicle. Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis and service may be required.

If the Light Is Flashing The following may prevent more serious damage to your vehicle:

Reducing vehicle speed. Avoiding hard accelerations. Avoiding steep uphill grades. If you are towing a trailer, reduce the amount of cargo being hauled as soon as it is possible.

If the light stops flashing and remains on steady, see “If the Light Is On Steady” following. If the light continues to flash, when it is safe to do so, stop the vehicle. Find a safe place to park your vehicle. Turn the key off, wait at least 10 seconds and restart the engine. If the light remains on steady, see “If the Light Is On Steady” following. If the light is still flashing, follow the previous steps, and drive the vehicle to your dealer or qualified service center for service.

If the Light Is On Steady You may be able to correct the emission system malfunction by considering the following: Did you recently put fuel into your vehicle? If so, reinstall the fuel cap, making sure to fully install the cap. See Filling Your Tank on page 5-7. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. A loose or missing fuel cap will allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. A few driving trips with the cap properly installed should turn the light off. Did you just drive through a deep puddle of water? If so, your electrical system may be wet. The condition will usually be corrected when the electrical system dries out. A few driving trips should turn the light off. Are you low on fuel? As your engine starts to run out of fuel, your engine may not run as efficiently as designed since small amounts of air are sucked into the fuel line causing misfire. The system can detect this. Adding fuel should correct this condition. Make sure to install the fuel cap properly. See Filling Your Tank on page 5-7. It will take a few driving trips to turn the light off.

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Have you recently changed brands of fuel? If so, be sure to fuel your vehicle with quality fuel. See Gasoline Octane on page 5-5. Poor fuel quality will cause your engine not to run as efficiently as designed. You may notice this as stalling after start-up, stalling when you put the vehicle into gear, misfiring, hesitation on acceleration or stumbling on acceleration. (These conditions may go away once the engine is warmed up.) This will be detected by the system and cause the light to turn on. If you experience one or more of these conditions, change the fuel brand you use. It will require at least one full tank of the proper fuel to turn the light off. If none of the above steps have made the light turn off, have your dealer or qualified service center check the vehicle. Your dealer has the proper test equipment and diagnostic tools to fix any mechanical or electrical problems that may have developed.

Emissions Inspection and Maintenance Programs Some state/provincial and local governments have or may begin programs to inspect the emission control equipment on your vehicle. Failure to pass this inspection could prevent you from getting a vehicle registration. Here are some things you need to know to help your vehicle pass an inspection: Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light is on or not working properly. Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the OBD (on-board diagnostic) system determines that critical emission control systems have not been completely diagnosed by the system. The vehicle would be considered not ready for inspection. This can happen if you have recently replaced your battery or if your battery has run down. The diagnostic system is designed to evaluate critical emission control systems during normal driving. This may take several days of routine driving. If you have done this and your vehicle still does not pass the inspection for lack of OBD system readiness, see your dealer or qualified service center to prepare the vehicle for inspection.

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Oil Pressure Light

If you have a problem with your oil, this light may stay on after you start your engine, or come on when you are driving.

This indicates that there is not enough pressure to keep your engine properly lubricated and cool. The engine could be low on oil, or have some other oil related problem. Have it fixed right away. The oil light could also come on in three other situations. * When the ignition is on but the engine

is not

running, the light will come on as a test to show you it is working, but the light will go out when you turn the engine to START. If it doesn’t come on with the ignition on, you may have a problem with the fuse or bulb. Have it fixed right away. Sometimes when the engine is idling at a stop, the light may blink on and off. This is normal.

* If you make a hard stop, the light may come on for

a moment. This is normal.

f the oil pressure is low. If Don’t keep dri, you do, your engine can become so hot that it catches fire. You or others could be burned. Check your oil as soon as possible and have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Damage to your engine from neglected oil problems can be costly and is not covered by your warranty. Overdrive Off Light

O D OFF

This light comes on when the automatic four-speed transmission, if equipped, has been converted to the three-speed mode and the overdrive is turned off.

This light also comes on as a check for approximately five seconds when the ignition key is turned to ON or START.

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Four-Wheel-Drive Light

Fuel Gage

4WD

If you have four-wheel drive, this light comes on when the ignition switch is on and the transfer case lever is in one of the four-wheel drive positions.

Your fuel gage shows about how much fuel is in your tank. When the gage first indicates E (empty), you still have about one or two gallons (4 to 8 L) of fuel left in your tank, but you need to get more right away.

See Four- Wheel Drive on page 5-52.

Power Indicator Light

POWER

This light comes on when the power mode selector switch, if equipped, is turned to P (power) with the ignition switch in the ON position.

This light comes on as a check for approximately five seconds when the ignition key is turned to ON or START.

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Here are four concerns some owners have had about the fuel gage. All these situations are normal and do not indicate that anything is wrong with the fuel gage.

At the gas station, he fuel pump shuts off before the gage reads F (full). It takes more (or less) fuel to fill up than the gage reads. For example, the gage reads half full, but it took more (or less) than half of the tank’s capacity to fill it. The gage moves a little when you turn, stop or speed up. When you turn the engine off, the gage doesn’t go back to E (empty). It takes several minutes for the gage to read F (full) after filling the tank.

Audio System(s) Notice: Before you add any sound equipment to your vehicle - like a tape player, CB radio, mobile telephone or two-way radio - be sure you can add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to do it properly. Added sound equipment may interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine, Delphi Electronics radio or other systems, and even damage them. Your vehicle’s systems may interfere with the operation of sound equipment that has been added improperly. So, before adding sound equipment, check with your dealer and be sure to check federal rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.

Some models do not include a radio, however all models come with four speakers, an antenna and all of the wiring needed to install a radio. Notice: Any non-factory installed radio’s are not covered by your vehicle’s warranty. Your audio system has been designed to operate easily and to give years of listening pleasure. You will get the most enjoyment out of it if you acquaint yourself with it first. Find out what your audio system can do and how to operate all of its controls to be sure you’re getting the most out of the advanced engineering that went into it. Setting the Time Press and hold the HR or MIN arrow for two seconds. Then press the HR arrow until the correct hour appears on the display. Press and hold the MIN arrow until the correct minute appears. The time may be set with the ignition on or off.

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Radio with CD

Finding a Station

AM FM: Press this button to switch between AM, FMI and FM2. The display will show your selection. TUNE: Turn this knob to choose radio stations.

a SEEK D : Press the right or the left arrow to seek

to the next or to the previous station and stay there. To scan stations, press and hold one of the SEEK arrows for two seconds until you hear a beep. The radio will go to a station, play for a few seconds and flash the station frequency, then go on to the next station. Press one of the SEEK arrows again to stop scanning. To scan preset stations, press and hold one of the SEEK arrows for more than four seconds until you hear two beeps. The radio will go to the first preset station stored on your pushbuttons, play for a few seconds and flash the station frequency, then go on to the next preset station. Press one of the SEEK arrows again to stop scanning presets. The radio will seek and scan only to stations that are ip the selected band and only to those with a strong signal.

Playing the Radio PWR (Power): Press this knob to turn the system on and off. VOL (Volume): Turn the knob to increase or to decrease volume. RCL (Recall): Press this knob to switch the display between time and radio station frequency. Time display is available with the ignition turned off.

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Setting Preset Stations The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to 18 stations (six AM, six FM1 and six FM2) by performing the following steps: 1. 2. 3. 4.

Turn the radio on. Press AM FM to select AM, FM1 or FM2. Tune in the desired station. Press and hold one of the six numbered pushbuttons until you hear a beep. Whenever you press that numbered pushbutton, the station you set will return. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton. 5. Setting the Tone (Bass/Treble)

AUDIO: To adjust the bass or the treble, press and release the AUDIO button repeatedly until BAS or TRE appears on the display. Then press and hold the up or the down arrow to increase or to decrease. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the treble.

To adjust bass or treble to the middle position, select BAS or TRE. Then press and hold the AUDIO button for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. B and a zero or T and a zero will appear on the display. To adjust both tone controls and both speaker controls to the middle position, first end out of audio mode by pressing another button, causing the radio to perform that function, or by waiting five seconds for the display to return to time of day. Then press and hold the AUDIO button for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. CEN will appear on the display. Adjusting the Speakers (Balance/Fade)

AUDIO: To adjust the balance between the right and the left speakers, press and release the AUDIO button until BAL appears on the display. Then press and hold the up or the down arrow to move the sound toward the right or the left speakers. To adjust the fade between the front and rear speakers, press and release the AUDIO button until FAD appears on the display. Then press and hold the up or the down arrow to move the sound toward the front or the rear speakers.

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To adjust balance or fade to the middle position, select BAL or FAD. Then press and hold AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. L and a zero or F and a zero will appear on the display. To adjust both tone controls and both speaker controls to the middle position, first end out of audio mode by pressing another button, causing the radio to perform that function, or by waiting five seconds for the display to return to time of day. Then press and hold AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. CEN will appear on the display. Radio Messages

CAL (Calibration): Your audio system has been calibrated for your vehicle from the factory. If CAL appears on the display it means that your radio has not been configured properly for your vehicle and must be returned to the dealership for service.

Playing a Compact Disc Insert a disc partway into the slot, label side up. The player will pull it in. The disc should begin playing. The display will show CD. If you want to insert a compact disc with the ignition off, first press RCL or the eject button. If an error appears on the display, see “Compact Disc Messages” later in this section. 1 PREV (Previous): Press this pushbutton to go to the previous track if the current track has been playing for less than eight seconds. If pressed when the current track has been playing for more than eight seconds, it will go to the beginning of the current track. The track number will appear on the display. If you hold the pushbutton or press it more than once, the player will continue moving back through the disc. 2 NEXT: Press this pushbutton to go to the next track. The track number will appear on the display. If you hold the pushbutton or press it more than once, the player will continue moving forward through the disc.

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3 REV (Reverse): Press and hold this pushbutton to reverse quickly within a track. Release it to play the passage. The display will show elapsed time while reversing. 4 FWD (Forward): Press and hold this pushbutton to advance quickly within a track. Release it to play the passage. The display will show elapsed time while forwarding.

5 RDM (Random): Press this pushbutton to hear the tracks in random, rather than sequential, order. RND will appear on the display. Press RDM again to turn off random play. OFF will appear on the display.

6 RPT (Repeat): Press this pushbutton once to hear a track over again. RPT will appear on the display. The current track will continue to repeat. Press RPT again to turn off repeated play. OFF will appear on the display.

a SEEK D : Press the right or the left arrow to go to

the next or to the previous track. The track number will appear on the display. RCL (Recall): Press this knob to see the current track number or how long the current track has been playing. AM FM: Press this button to play the radio when a disc is in the player. The disc will stop but remain in the player.

CD: With a compact disc in the player and the radio playing, press this button to play the compact disc. CD will appear on the display.

(Eject): Press this button to eject a CD. Eject may

be activated with either the ignition or radio off. CDs may be loaded with the radio and ignition off if this button is pressed first. Compact Disc Messages If the disc comes out, it could be for one of the following reasons: * You’re driving on a very rough road. When the road

becomes smoother, the disc should play. It’s very hot. When the temperature returns to normal, the disc should play. The disc is dirty, scratched, wet or upside down. The air is very humid. If so, wait about an hour and try again.

If the CD is not playing correctly, for any other reason, try a known good CD. If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error can’t be corrected, contact your dealer.

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Care of Your CD Player The use of CD lens cleaner discs is not advised, due to the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics with lubricants internal to the CD mechanism. Fixed Mast Antenna The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent you should replace it. If the mast becomes loose from the antenna base, which is located on the fender, tighten by hand, then with a wrench, one quarter turn.

Understanding Radio Reception AM

The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it. FM FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (1 6 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go.

Care of Your CDs

Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge. Be sure never to touch the side without writing when handling discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge.

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Section

Driving Your Vehicle

Your Driving. the Road. and Your Vehicle .......... 4-2 Driver Behavior .............................................. 4.2 Driving Environment ........................................ 4-2 Vehicle Design ............................................... 4-2 Defensive Driving ........................................... 4-3 Drunken Driving ............................................. 4-3 Control of a Vehicle ............ .................... 4-6 Braking ......................................................... 4-7 Steering ...................................................... 4-10 Off-Road Recovery ....................................... 4-12 Passing ....................................................... 4-12 Loss of Control ............................................. 4-14 Off-Road Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive

Vehicle .................................................... 4-15 ............................................ 4-28

Driving at Night

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-29 City Driving .................................................. 4-32 Freeway Driving ........................................... 4-33 Before Leaving on a Long Trip ....................... 4-34 Highway Hypnosis ........................................ 4-35 Hill and Mountain Roads ................................ 4-35 Winter Driving .............................................. 4-37 If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud,

Ice or Snow .............................................. 4-41 Towing .......................................................... 4-44 Towing Your Vehicle ..................................... 4-44 Recreational Vehicle Towing ........................... 4-44 Loading Your Vehicle ................................. 4-47 Towing a Trailer ................................ . 4-49

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Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle Whenever we drive, we’re taking on an important responsibility. This is true for any motor vehicle - passenger car, van, truck, sport utility. Driver behavior, the driving environment, and the vehicle’s design all affect how well a vehicle performs. But statistics show that the most important factor, by far, is how we drive. Knowing how these three factors work together can help you understand how your vehicle handles and what you can do to avoid many types of crashes, including a rollover crash. Driver Behavior The single most important thing is this: everyone in the vehicle, including the driver, should buckle up. See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1 - IO. In fact, most serious injuries and fatalities to unbelted occupants can be reduced or prevented by the use of safety belts. In a rollover crash, an unbelted person is significantly more likely to die than a person wearing a seat belt. In addition, avoiding excessive speed, sudden or abrupt turns and drunken or aggressive driving can help make trips safer and avoid the possibility of a crash, especially a rollover crash. This section provides many useful tips to help you drive more safely.

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Driving Environment

You can also help avoid a rollover or other type of crash by being prepared for driving in inclement weather, at night, or during other times where visibility or traction may be limited (such as on curves, slippery roads or hilly terrain). Unfamiliar surroundings can also have hidden hazards. To help you learn more about driving in different conditions, this section contains information about city, freeway and off-road driving, as well as other hints for driving in various weather conditions.

Vehicle Design

According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, utility vehicles have a significantly higher rollover rate than other types of vehicles. Utility vehicles do have higher ground clearance and a narrower track or shorter wheelbase than passenger cars, to make them more capable for off-road driving. Specific design characteristics like these give the driver a better view of the road, but also give utility vehicles a higher center of gravity than other types of vehicles. This means that you shouldn’t expect a utility vehicle to handle the same way a vehicle with a lower center of gravity, like a car, would in similar situations.

But driver behavior factors are far more often the cause of a utility vehicle rollover than are environmental or vehicle factors. Safe driver behavior and understanding the environment in which you’ll be driving can help avoid a rollover crash in any type of vehicle, including utility vehicles. Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1 - 10. Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task - such as concentrating on a cellular

telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the floor - makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.

Drunken Driving

Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive P vehicle:

Judgment Muscular Coordination Vision Attentiveness.

Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 16,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured.

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Many adults - by some estimates, nearly half the adult population - choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if someone plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things:

The amount of alcohol consumed The drinker’s body weight The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking The length of time it has taken the drinker to consume the alcohol.

According to the American Medical Association, a 180 Ib (82 kg) person who drinks three 12 ounce (355 mi) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the

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same BAC by drinking three 4 ounce (120 mi) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1 - 1/2 ounces (45 mi) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.

It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level.

There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks. The law in an increasing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, sets the legal limit at 0.08 percent. In some other countries, the limit is even lower. For example, it is 0.05 percent in both France and Germany The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.1 0 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them.

But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater! The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “1’11 be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision.

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There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking - driver or passenger - is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had nc+ 9een drinking.

Control of a Vehicle

You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

Dl II lking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgement can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious-or even fatal-collision if you drive after drinking. Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

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Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle.

Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. “lat’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your luot and do it. That’s reaction time. verage reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But tnat’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (I00 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.

Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts - heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking - rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. I f your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

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Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle may have anti-lock brakes. ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid.

ABS

If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, this warning light on the instrument panel will come on briefly when you start your vehicle.

When you start your engine, or when you begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves or pulses a little. This is normal. If there’s a problem with the anti-lock brake system, the anti-lock brake system warning light will stay on. See Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light on page 3-30.

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Let’s say the road is wet and you’re driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here’s what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at both rear wheels.

The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.

As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.

Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes. Using Anti-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel a slight brake pedal pulsation or notice some noise, but this is normal. Braking in Emergencies At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation that requires hard braking. If you have anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. However, if you don’t have anti-lock, your first reaction - to hit the brake pedal hard and hold it down - may be the wrong thing to do. Your wheels can stop rolling. Once they do, the vehicle can’t respond to your steering. Momentum will carry it in whatever direction it was headed when the wheels stopped rolling. That could be off the road, into the very thing you were trying to avoid, or into traffic.

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If you don’t have anti-lock, use a “squeeze” braking technique. This will give you maximum braking while maintaining steering control. You can do this by pushing on the brake pedal with steadily increasing pressure. In an emergency, you will probably want to squeeze the brakes hard without locking the wheels. If you hear or feel the wheels sliding, ease off the brake pedal. This will help you retain steering control. If you do have anti-lock, it’s different. See “Anti-Lock Brakes.” In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Steering Tips Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes

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it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control systems - steering and braking - have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Unless you have four-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard braking can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. The same thing can happen if you’re steering through a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems - steering and acceleration - can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower.

If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking - if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action - steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes - but, unless you have anti-lock, not enough to lock your wheels. See Braking on page 4-7. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

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Off -Road Recovery

Passing

You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway. 4-1 2

The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents - the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing:

“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.

Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.

0 Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.) Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle. Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

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Loss of Control

Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.

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If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues - such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you have any doubt. If you have the anti-lock braking system, remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have anti-lock, then in a braking skid (where the wheels are no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.

Before You Go Off-Roading There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Check to make sure all underbody shields (if so equipped) are properly attached. Be sure you read all the information about your four-wheel-drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you’ll be driving? If you don’t know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission.

Qff-Road Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle This off-road guide is for vehicles that have four-wheel drive. Also, see Braking on page 4-7. If your vehicle doesn’t have four-wheel drive, you shouldn’t drive off-road unless you’re on a level, solid surface. Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. “Off-roading” means you’ve left the great North American road system behind. Traffic lanes aren’t marked. Curves aren’t banked. There are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill. In short, you’ve gone right back to nature. Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that’s why it’s very important that you read this guide. You’ll find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable.

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I CAUTION: (Cant,, ,ued)

Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly. Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.

You’ll find other important information in this manual. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-47, Luggage Carrier on page 2-34 and Tires on page 5-59.

Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle.

The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can. Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on the off-road terrain doesn’t toss things around.

II

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Cargo on the load floor piled higher i..,n the seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.

CAUTION: (Continued)

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Environmental Concerns

Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. We recognize these concerns and urge every off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment:

Always use established trails, roads and areas that have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving; obey all posted regulations. Avoid any driving practice that could damage the environment - shrubs, flowers, trees, grasses - or disturb wildlife (this includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground.) Always carry a litter bag ... make sure all refuse is removed form any campsite before leaving. Take extreme care with open fires (where permitted)] camp stoves and lanterns. Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other combustible materials that could catch fire form the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.

Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads. It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly. Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you’ll want to know how to use it properly. Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and different driving skills. Here’s what we mean. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet and body, you’ll need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.

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Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds:

you approach things. faster and you have less time to scan the terrain for obstacles. you have less time to react. you have more vehicle bounce when you drive over obstacles. you’ll need more distance for braking, especially since you’re on an unpaved surfaces.

n you’re dl

ng off-road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you’re driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

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Scanning the Terrain

Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider.

Surface Conditions: Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction and longer braking distances.

Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut or bump can startle you if you’re not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:

Is the path ahead clear? Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? (There’s more discussion of these subjects later.) Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction quickly?

Driving on Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and can’t do. There are some hills that simply can’t be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you can’t control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, don’t drive the hill.

When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you’re not prepared. When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you can’t control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits or signal lights. You have to use our own good judgment about what is safe and what isn’t. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious - or even fatal - accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. See Drunken Driving on page 4-3.

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Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if ti’s one of those hills that’s just too steep to climb, descend or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill. the incline may get steeper as you near the tip, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs. Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill.

Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slippinq? Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you won’t have to make turning maneuvers? Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)?

0 What’s beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an

embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you don’t know. It’s the smart way to find out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

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Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps.

Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering wheel. Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain your speed. Don’t use more power than you need, because you don’t want your wheels to start spinning or sliding. Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

Turning or dri - --Jg across steep I....s can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of the hill. Attach a flag to the vehicle to w k e you more visible to approaching traffic oc; trails or hills.

Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to let opposing traffic know you’re there. Use your headlamps even during the day. They make you more visible to oncoming traffic.

Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full spe,- can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down

If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or, shift to neutral if your vehicle has a manual transmission) and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the fill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R). As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It’s best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

Q: What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and I can’t make it up the hill? A: If this happens, there are some things you should do, and there are some things you must not do. First here’s what you should do: Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake. If your engine is still running, shift the transmission to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill

in REVERSE (R)

Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill.

Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into NEUTRAL (N) (or pressing the clutch, if you have a manual transmission) to “rev-up” the engine and regain forward momentum. This won’t work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control. Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

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Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down

the hill and decide I just can’t do it. What should I do?

A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in

PARK (P), or the manual transmission in FIRST (l), and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

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Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) (or, if you have the manual transmission, even if you’re in gear). This is because the NEUTRAL position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or, put your manual transmission in FIRST (1)). But do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. Leave the transfer case in the 2H, 4H or 4L position.

Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you’ll want to consider a number of things:

How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain vehicle control? What‘s the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?

Are there any hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders? What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

driving down a hill?

Q: Are there some things I should not do when At Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose control and have a serious accident. When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that’s not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down. Never go downhill with the transmission in NEUTRAL (N), or with the clutch pedal pressed down in a manual shift. This is called “free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade. Unless you have anti-lock: Avoid braking so hard that you lock the wheels when going downhill. If your wheels are locked, you can’t steer your vehicle. If your wheels lock up during downhill braking, you may feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways. To regain your direction, just ease off the brakes and steer to keep the front of the vehicle pointing straight downhill.

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Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill? A: It’s much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it

happens going downhill, here’s what to do. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes. Apply the parking brake. Shift to PARK (P) (or to neutral with the manual transmission) and, while still braking, restart the engine. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight down. If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.

Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:

A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle

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from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover. Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over. Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more. For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

Driving across an incline that’s too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, don’t drive across it. Find another route instead.

Q: What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do? A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it. Stalling on an Incline If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you’ll be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path of the vehicle if it does roll over.

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

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Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances. It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the lower the gear, In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck. When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

tend to sink

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Dric J on 1 .zen lakes, ponds or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

Driving in Water Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or exhaust pipe, don’t try it - you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts.

too deep, drive slowly through it. At

If the water isn’t faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your aCCumulations can be a engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

as long as your

After Off-Road Driving

Fh-mve any brush Or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the

hood. These

fire hazard-

After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

Dril g throug wshing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it’s only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing water.

See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-29 for more information on driving through water.

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Driving at Night

Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively. Don’t drink and drive. Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you. Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired - by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

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temporarily blinded by approaching

You can be headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean - inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness - the inability to see in dim light - and even aren’t aware

of it.

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

roads can mean

driving trouble. On a wet

Rain and wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.

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The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They WL ‘t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water

Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Driving Through FT wi

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t