2001 Chevrolet Silverado Owners Manual

3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle,

be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL.

CAUTION: (Continued)

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

Regular Cab

Extended and Crew CabR

The equipment you’ll need is behind the passenger’s seat. For Extended and Crew Cab models, the equipment is under the passenger’s side second row seat.

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1. If there is a cover, move the seats forward and

turn the wing nut on the cover counterclockwise to remove it. For Crew Cab models, pull up the second row seat with the loop at the base of the seat cushion to access the tools.

2. The wheel blocks and the wheel block retainer can be

removed by turning the wing nut counterclockwise. 3. To release the bottle jack from its holder, turn the knob on the bottle jack counterclockwise to lower the jack head slightly.

4. There is also a wing nut used to retain the

storage bag and tools. To remove it, turn the wing nut counterclockwise.

You’ll use the jack handle and the wheel wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.

A. Hoist Assembly B. Wheel Wrench C. Extensions D. Hoist Shaft E. Valve Stem,

Pointed Down

F. Spare Tire

G. Tire Retainer H. Hoist Cable I. Hoist Lock J. Hoist Shaft Access Hole

K. Hoist End

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Follow these instructions to lower the spare tire: 1. If the vehicle is equipped with a hoist lock,

open the spare tire lock cover on the bumper and use the ignition key to remove the lock.

2. Assemble the wheel wrench and the two jack handle extensions as shown. Insert the hoist end (open end) of the extension through the hole in the rear bumper. Be sure the hoist end of the extension connects into the hoist shaft.

3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. The wheel wrench has a hook that allows you to pull the hoist cable towards you, to assist in reaching the spare tire.

4. When the tire has been lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening.

5. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

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The tools you’ll be using include the bottle jack (A), the wheel blocks (B), the jack handle (C), the jack handle extensions (D), and the wheel wrench (E). If the flat tire is on the rear of the vehicle, you’ll need to use both jack handle extensions.

Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extensions (as needed). Attach the jack handle to the jack.

Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the jack lift head a little.

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If your vehicle has wheel nut caps, loosen them by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. If you have a center cap with wheel nut caps, the wheel nut caps are designed to remain with the center cap.

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

1. Use the wheel wrench

to loosen all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Don’t remove the wheel nuts yet.

Remove the center cap. If the wheel has a smooth center piece, place the chisel end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry out.

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2. Position the jack under the vehicle. If the flat tire

is on the front of the vehicle (2-Wheel Drive 1500 Series vehicles), position the jack under the bracket attached to the vehicle’s frame, behind the flat tire. If the flat tire is on the front of the vehicle (all other models), position the jack on the frame behind the flat tire. If the flat tire is on the rear, position the jack under the rear axle between the spring anchor and the shock absorber bracket. If you have added a snow plow to the front of your vehicle, lower the snow plow fully before raising the vehicle.

CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

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Front Position 2WD 1500 Series

Front Position All Other Models

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Rear Position

3. Make sure the jack head is positioned so that the rear axle is resting securely between the grooves that are on the jack head. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit under the wheel well.

4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

5. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

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CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

6. After mounting the

spare, replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each wheel nut by hand using the wheel wrench until the wheel is held against the hub.

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Front Position 2WD 1500 Series

Front Position All Other Models

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Rear Position

7. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the vehicle. Lower the jack completely.

8. Tighten the nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as

shown by turning the wheel wrench clockwise.

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CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

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Return the bottle jack, wheel blocks, wheel wrench and jack extensions to their location behind the passenger’s seat. Secure the items in the vehicle as shown.

Store the tire under the rear of the vehicle in the spare tire carrier. To store the tire, do the following: 1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the

vehicle with the valve stem pointed downward and to the rear.

2. Tilt the retainer downward and through the wheel opening. Make sure that the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.

3. Attach the wheel wrench and extensions together.

Insert the hoist end through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft.

4. Raise the tire part of the way upward. When the tire is almost in the stored position, adjust the tire so that the valve stem is toward the rear of the vehicle.

A. Wing Nut B. Wheel Blocks C. Wheel Wrench and Extensions Retainer

D. Gloves

E. Wheel Wrench and Extensions

F. Storage Bag G. Bottle Jack Holder H. Bottle Jack I. Wheel Block

Retainer

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A. Hoist Assembly B. Wheel Wrench C. Extensions D. Hoist Shaft

E. Valve Stem,

Pointed Down

F. Flat or Spare Tire G. Retainer H. Hoist Cable

5. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the

vehicle. Continue turning the wheel wrench until the tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist cannot be overtightened.

6. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and

then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench/hoist shaft to tighten the cable.

Replace the jack, tools and spare tire lock.

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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

CAUTION:

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

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Using the Recovery Hooks

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a four-wheel drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. If your vehicle has the Traction Assist System, you should turn it off by pressing the TAS on/off button. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

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CAUTION:

The recovery hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

NOTICE:

Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

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Service Fuel Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Checking Things Under the Hood Noise Control System Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Passenger Compartment Air Filter (If Equipped) Automatic Transmission Fluid (Except Allison Transmission) Automatic Transmission Fluid (AllisonR Only) Manual Transmission Fluid Hydraulic Clutch Rear Axle Four-Wheel Drive

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Engine Coolant Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications

6-1

Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. Your vehicle may have an air bag system. If it does, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index before attempting to do your own service work. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

6-2

CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It is recommended that the gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and endorsed by the Canadian Motor Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.

6-3

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the fuel pump.

Canada Only

Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

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If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.

To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

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Filling Your Tank

CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Filling Your Tank (Diesel Engine)” in the Diesel Engine Supplement.

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The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. If your vehicle is a chassis cab, you will have a second fuel cap. While refueling, hang the filler cap by the tether using the hook located on the inside of the filler door. To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

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Filling a Portable Fuel Container

Checking Things Under the Hood

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into

approved containers.

D Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

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Hood Release

1. To open the hood, first pull the handle located inside the vehicle to the lower left of the steering wheel.

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the

secondary hood release, located on the passenger’s side near the center of the grille.

3. Lift the hood. 4. Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on

properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you lift up the hood on the VORTEC 4300 V6 engine, you’ll see the following:

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick

(If Equipped)

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F. Fan G. Engine Oil Fill H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir I. Remote Negative (-)

Terminal (GND)

J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal

K. Brake Fluid Reservoir L. Clutch Fluid Reservoir

(If Equipped)

M. Underhood Electrical Center N. Battery O. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

When you lift up the hood on the VORTEC 5300 V8 engine (VORTEC 4800 and 6000 V8 engines similar), you will see the following:

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick

(If Equipped)

F. Engine Oil Fill G. Fan H. Remote Negative (-)

Terminal (GND)

I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal

K. Brake Fluid Reservoir L. Clutch Fluid Reservoir

(If Equipped)

M. Underhood Electrical Center N. Battery O. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

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When you lift up the hood on the VORTEC 8100 V8 engine you will see the following:

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick

(If Equipped)

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F. Engine Oil Fill G. Fan H. Remote Negative (-)

Terminal (GND)

I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir

K. Brake Fluid Reservoir L. Clutch Fluid Reservoir

(If Equipped)

M. Underhood Electrical Center N. Battery O. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

Noise Control System The following information relates to compliance with federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 lbs. (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States. Tampering With Noise Control System Prohibited Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof: 1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person,

other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or

2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation: D Removal of the noise shields or any

underhood insulation.

Engine: D Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.

Fan and Drive: D Removal of fan clutch (if equipped) or rendering

clutch inoperative.

D Removal of the fan shroud (if equipped). Air Intake: D Removal of the air cleaner silencer. D Reversing the air cleaner cover. Exhaust: D Removal of the muffler and/or resonator. D Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust

pipe clamps.

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Engine Oil

If the CHECK ENG OIL LEVEL light appears on the instrument panel, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.

For more information, see CHECK ENG OIL LEVEL in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

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All Other Engines

8100 V8 Engine

The engine oil dipstick has a yellow ring handle and is located on the passenger’s side of the engine. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

All Other Engines

8100 V8 Engine

The engine oil fill cap for the VORTEC 4800, 5300 and 6000 V8 engines is located on the driver’s side engine valve cover. On the 8100 engine, the oil fill cap is located on the driver’s side engine valve cover. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.

Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil. This is not based on mileage, but on engine revolutions and engine operating temperature. When the computer has calculated that the oil needs changing, the GM Oil Life Systemt will indicate that a change is necessary. The mileage between oil and filter changes will vary depending on how you drive your vehicle -- usually between 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and 10,000 miles (16 000 km) since your last oil and filter change. Under severe conditions, the system may come on before 3,000 miles (5 000 km). Never drive your vehicle more than 10,000 miles (16 000 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first) without an oil change. The system won’t detect dust in the oil. So, if you drive in a dusty area, be sure to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or sooner. Remember to reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL light whenever the oil is changed.

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How to Reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL Message To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message, turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal three times within five seconds. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message flashes for five seconds, the system is reset. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

The air cleaner assembly has an indicator that lets you know when the air filter is dirty and needs to be serviced. The indicator is located on the air cleaner cover.

See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index to determine when to check the indicator. If the area inside the clear section of the indicator is not completely yellow, no air filter service is required. When the area inside the indicator is completely yellow, past the red band, the words “CHANGE FILTER” will be highlighted. After changing the air filter, press the top button on the indicator to reset it.

Your air cleaner is located in the passenger’s side front corner of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

1. To remove the air filter, loosen the screws on the

cover. Lift the cover upward. Lift the filter from the air cleaner housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.

2. Clean the filter sealing surface and the filter housing. 3. Install the new filter. 4. Install the cover and tighten the screws on the air

cleaner cover.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index.

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Passenger Compartment Air Filter (If Equipped) Your vehicle may be equipped with a passenger compartment air filter. The filter is located under the instrument panel, below the glove compartment. Your vehicle may or may not be equipped with an access panel. To replace the passenger compartment air filter, do the following: 1. If your vehicle has an access panel, remove the bolts on it and set the panel aside. If your vehicle does not have the access panel, skip this step.

2. Next, pull downward

on the filter retaining bracket.

CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

NOTICE:

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

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3. Remove the air filter by pulling downward on the

element. Remove the second portion of the air filter by sliding it towards the rear of the vehicle and then pulling downward.

4. Install the new filter by reversing the steps listed previously. Be sure to follow any instructions that may be included in the replacement filter package.

Because this procedure can be a little difficult, you may choose to have it done at your dealer’s service department. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the passenger compartment air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance” in the Index.

Automatic Transmission Fluid (Except Allison Transmission) When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50_F (10_C) or more. If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while.

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

1. The red transmission dipstick handle is located at the

rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for further information on location. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

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2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check. 4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Automatic Transmission Fluid (AllisonR Only) When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 25,000 miles (41 500 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer.

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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, run the engine for at least once minute and shift to DRIVE (D). Then shift to NEUTRAL (N) and then REVERSE (R) to fill the hydraulic system. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Allow the engine to run at idle (500 - 800 rpm).

Slowly release the brake pedal.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

Cold Check Procedure The purpose of the cold check is to determine if the transmission has enough fluid to be operated safely until a hot check can be made. The fluid level rises as fluid temperature increases. DO NOT fill above the COLD CHECK band if the transmission fluid is below normal operating temperatures. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Insert the dipstick into the tube and remove.

Check the fluid level reading. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading.

4. If the fluid level is within the COLD CHECK band,

the transmission may be operated until the fluid is hot enough to perform a hot check. If the fluid level is not within the COLD CHECK band, add or drain fluid as necessary to bring the level into the middle of the COLD CHECK band.

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5. Perform a hot check at the first opportunity after the

normal operating temperature of 160_F (71_C) to 200_F (93_C) is reached.

6. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

Hot Check Procedure The fluid must be hot to ensure an accurate check. The fluid level rises as temperature increases. 1. Operate the transmission in DRIVE (D) range until the normal operating temperature of 160_F (71_C) to 200_F (93_C) is reached.

2. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

3. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading.

4. Safe operating level is within the HOT RUN band on the dipstick. The width of the HOT RUN band represents approximately 1.06 quart (1.0 liter) of fluid at normal operating temperature.

5. If the fluid level is not within the HOT RUN band,

add or drain fluid as necessary to bring the fluid level to within the HOT RUN band.

6. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

Consistency of Readings Always check the fluid level at least twice using the procedures described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper fluid level. If inconsistent readings persist, check the transmission breather to be sure it is clean and unclogged. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer.

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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

D When the correct fluid level is obtained,

push the dipstick back in all the way.

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Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. See your maintenance schedule to find out when to change your transmission fluid. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case. Then, follow these steps:

5-Speed for VORTEC 4300 V6 and 4800 V8 engines

shown, other manual transmissions similar

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom

of the filler plug hole.

3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure

it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated.

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How to Check and Add Fluid The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap.

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. Additional rear axle scheduled maintenance is required when trailer towing. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for more information.

Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic clutch fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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How to Check Lubricant

Four-Wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

1500 Series shown, 2500 LD Series similar.

2500 HD and 3500 Series located on rear axle cover.

The proper level for the 1500 Series is from 5/8 inch to 1 5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the filler plug. The proper level for the 2500/3500 Series is from 0 to 3/8 inch (0 to 10 mm) below the filler plug. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

Manual Transfer Case

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Front Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

Automatic Transfer Case

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten plug.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant.

When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Checking Coolant

The coolant surge tank is located on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

If the LOW COOLANT message comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

See “Low Coolant” in the Index.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FILL COLD mark.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.

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Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap

Power Steering Fluid

The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank.

All Other Engines

NOTICE:

Your coolant surge tank pressure cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating.

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8100 V8 Engine

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for information on its location. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

NOTICE:

D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.

So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Checking Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.

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NOTICE:

D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

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NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.”

Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for battery location. WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index. Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your GM dealership service department. Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index for the proper types of bulbs to use. Halogen Bulbs

CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

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Headlamps

A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. High-Beam Headlamp

2. Pull the headlamp lens assembly out. 3. Unplug the electrical connector. 4. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and remove it

from the headlamp lens assembly.

5. Put the new bulb into the lens assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight. Use care not to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands. 6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp lens assembly back into the

vehicle. Install and tighten the two pins.

1. Remove the two pins on the top of the headlamp assembly. To remove the pins, turn the outer pin outward and pull it straight up. To remove the inner pin, turn it inward and pull it straight up.

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Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime Running Lamps

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Retainer Clip C. Front Turn Signal Lamp D. Daytime Running Lamp

1. Remove the headlamp lens assembly as

mentioned previously.

2. Press the retainer clip, located behind the turn

signal housing, towards the outside of the vehicle. 3. Pull the turn signal housing out from the vehicle. 4. Press the locking release lever, turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal lens housing.

5. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 6. Put the new bulb into the bulb socket. Use care not to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands. 7. Put the bulb socket into the turn signal housing

and turn it clockwise until it locks.

8. Put the turn signal housing back onto the vehicle

placing the hook and posts on the inner side into the alignment holes first and then the outer side into the retainer bracket until you hear a click.

9. Put the headlamp lens assembly back into the vehicle.

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Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) and Cargo Lamp

1. Remove the screws and lift off the lamp assembly.

A. Cargo Lamps B. Center High-Mounted Stoplamps

2. Remove the CHMSL bulb holder back plate from

the housing by pressing the release tabs.

3. A CHMSL bulb is removed by pulling the bulb

straight out from the holder back plate. A cargo bulb is removed by turning the socket counterclockwise and pulling the bulb straight out.

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Roof Marker Lamps

1. Remove the two screws

and lift off the lens. The center roof marker lamps has six screws to remove.

4. If a CHMSL bulb is replaced, put the new bulb into

the socket and press it in until it is tight.

5. If a cargo lamp is replaced, put a new cargo lamp bulb into the socket and press it in until it is tight before turning the socket counterclockwise.

6. Put the bulb holder back plate into the lamp housing. 7. Reinstall the lamp assembly and tighten the screws.

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3. Put a new bulb into the

socket and turn clockwise until it locks in place.

2. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise to remove it

from the socket.

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4. Reinstall the lens and tighten the screws.

Pickup Box Identification Lamps (Dual Rear Wheel Pickup Models) 1. Remove the screws and lamp assembly. 2. Unplug the lamp assembly harness. 3. Use a screwdriver to gently pry the individual lamp

from the lamp housing.

4. Unplug the lamp at the connector. 5. Plug in a new lamp and snap it into the housing. 6. Reinstall the lamp housing.

Taillamps (Pickup Models) 1. Open the tailgate.

2. Remove the two rear lamp assembly screws near the tailgate latch and pull out the lamp assembly.

A. Stoplamp B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp

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Taillamps (Chassis Cab Models)

A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Stoplamp C. Back-up Lamp

3. Press the release tab and turn the bulb socket

counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp housing.

4. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket. 5. Press a new bulb into the socket and turn the socket

clockwise into the taillamp housing until it clicks.

6. Reinstall the rear lamp assembly and tighten

the screws.

7. Close the tailgate.

1. Using your hands, peel the rubber seal away from

the lens.

2. Lift the lens off the lamp assembly. 3. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket. 4. Put a new bulb into the socket and press it in until

it is tight.

5. Reinstall the lens and the lens seal.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement

Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index. Here’s how to remove the Shephard’s Hook type. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly: 1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is facing

away from the windshield.

2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly

toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.

3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.

Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in the Index for more information.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details.

CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

D Overinflated tires are more likely to be

cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your

tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Certification/Tire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy.

NOTICE: (Continued)

NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel wrench/hoist shaft to tighten the cable. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” in the Index. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

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If your vehicle has single rear wheels and the tread design for your front tires is the same as your rear tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires. If your vehicle has front tires with different tread designs (such as all season vs. on/off road) than the rear tires, don’t rotate your tires front to rear.

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels and the tread design for your front tires is the same as your rear tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires.

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels and the tread design for your front tires is different from your rear tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here when rotating your tires.

The dual tires are rotated as a pair, and the inside rear tires become the outside rear tires. When you install dual wheels, be sure the vent holes in the inner and outer wheels on each side are lined up. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certification/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

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When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

D You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged

deep enough to show cord or fabric. D The tire has a bump, bulge or split. D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Dual Tire Operation When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index. The outer tire on a dual wheel setup generally wears faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically. If you’re going to be doing a lot of driving on high-crown roads, you can reduce tire wear by adding 5 psi (35 kPa) to the tire pressure in the outer tires. Be sure to return to the recommended pressures when no longer driving under those conditions. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

CAUTION:

If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is badly underinflated, the tire can overheat. An overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire. You or others could be injured. Be sure all tires (including the spare) are properly inflated.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.

CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: