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Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles


CAUTION:


Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL.


Use the following procedure to correctly tow your vehicle on all four wheels: 1. Firmly set the parking brake. 2. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK (P),


or a manual transmission to FIRST (1).


3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the


tow vehicle.


4. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N).


See “Four-Wheel Drive” in the Index for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.


5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle


being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle. 6. Turn the ignition to OFF. The OFF position unlocks


the steering column and reduces battery drain as long as the IGN 0 fuse is removed. Unlocking the steering column will allow the proper movement of the front wheels and tires during towing.


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Loading Your Vehicle


The Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door or in the Incomplete Vehicle Document in the cab. The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.


The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. The Certification/Tire label also contains information about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. See “Front Axle Reserve Capacity” later in this section. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.


CAUTION:


In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things carried in the bed of your truck could shift forward and come into the passenger area, injuring you and others. If you put things in the bed of your truck, you should make sure they are properly secured.


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CAUTION:


CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading. This will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else -- they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. D Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle.


Try to spread the weight evenly.


D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint


in your vehicle.


D When you carry something inside the


vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


D Don’t leave a seat folded down unless


you need to.


There’s also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” in the Index.


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Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment Before installing a snow plow on your vehicle, here are some things you’ll need to know:


NOTICE:


If your vehicle doesn’t have the snow plow prep package, adding a plow can damage your vehicle, and the repairs wouldn’t be covered by warranty. Unless your vehicle was built to carry a snow plow, don’t add one to your vehicle. If your vehicle has the snow plow option called RPO VYU (snow plow prep package), then the payload your vehicle can carry will be reduced when a snow plow is installed. Your vehicle can be damaged if either the front or rear axle ratings, or the GVW, are exceeded.


Q: How do I know if my vehicle can handle a


snow plow?


A: Some vehicles are built with a special package, called RPO VYU (snow plow prep package). If your vehicle has this option, you can add a plow to it, provided certain weights, such as the weights on the vehicle’s axles and the GVW, aren’t exceeded.


Q: How heavy can a snow plow safely be? A: The plow your vehicle can carry depends on many


things, such as:


D The options your vehicle came with, and the weight


of those options,


D The weight and number of passengers you intend


to carry,


D The weight of items you’ve added to your vehicle,


like a tool box or truck cap,


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D The total weight of any additional cargo you intend


to carry.


Say, for example, you have a 700 lb. (318 kg) snow plow. The total weight of all occupants and cargo inside the cab should not exceed 300 lb. (135 kg). This means that you may only be able to carry one passenger. But, even this may be too much if you’ve got other equipment already adding to the weight of your vehicle. Here are some guidelines for safely carrying a snow plow on your vehicle:


D Make sure the weight on the front and rear axles


doesn’t exceed the axle rating for each.


D For the front axle, if more cargo or passengers


must be carried, appropriate counter ballast must be installed rear of the rear axle. Counter ballast must be properly secured so it won’t move during driving.


D Follow the snow plow manufacturer’s


recommendations regarding rear ballast. Rear ballast may be required to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual weight at the front axle may be less than the front axle rating.


D The snow plow manufacturer or installer can


assist you in determining the amount of rear ballast required, to help make sure your snowplow/vehicle combination does not exceed the GVW rating, the front and rear axle ratings, and the front and rear weight distribution ratio.


D The total vehicle must not exceed the GVW rating.


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Q: What is front axle reserve capacity, and how


do I calculate it?


A: Front axle reserve capacity is the difference between your front GAWR and the front axle weight of your truck with full fuel and passengers. Basically, it’s the amount of weight you can add to your front axle before reaching your front GAWR.


The front axle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the tire/certification label.


In order to calculate the amount of weight any front accessory, such as a snow plow, is adding to the front axle, use the following formula:


(W x (A + W.B))/W.B.= Weight the accessory is adding to the front axle. Where: W=Weight of added accessory A=Distance that the accessory is in front of the A=front axle W.B.=Vehicle Wheelbase


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For example, adding a 700 lb. (318 kg) snow plow actually adds more than 700 lb. (318 kg) to the front axle. Using the formula, if the snow plow is 4 ft. (122 cm) in front of the front axle and the wheel base is 10 ft. (305 cm), then: W=700 lb. (318 kg) A=4 ft. (122 cm) W.B.=10 ft. (305 cm) (W x (A + W.B.))/W.B.= (700 x (4 + 10))/10 = 980 lb. (445 kg) So, if your truck’s front axle reserve capacity is more than 980 lb. (445 kg), you could add this snow plow without exceeding the front GAWR. Q: What if I want to add heavier equipment to


my vehicle?


A: You can add heavier equipment on the front of the vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer passengers, less cargo, or by positioning cargo more towards the rear. This has the effect of reducing the load on the front. However, the front GAWR, rear GAWR and the GVWR must never be exceeded.


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CAUTION:


On some vehicles equipped with certain front mounted equipment, such as a snow plow, it may be possible to load the front axle to the front GAWR but not have enough weight on the rear axle to have proper braking performance. If your brakes can’t work properly, you could have a crash. To help your brakes work properly when a snow plow is installed, always follow the snow plow manufacturer or installer’s recommendation for rear ballast to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual front weight may be less than the front GAWR, and the total vehicle weight is less than the GVWR. Maintaining a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio is necessary to provide proper braking performance.


Q: What is total vehicle reserve capacity? A: This is the difference between your GVWR and the weight of your truck with full fuel and passengers. It’s the amount of weight you can add to your vehicle before reaching your GVWR.


Keep in mind that reserve capacity numbers are intended as a guide when selecting the amount of equipment or cargo your truck can carry. If you are unsure of your truck’s front, rear or total weight, go to a weight station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can also help you with this. See your dealer for additional advice and information about using a snow plow on your vehicle. Also, see “Loading Your Vehicle” earlier in this section.


Truck-Camper Loading Information This label is inside your glove box. It will tell you if your vehicle can carry a slide-in camper, how much of a load your vehicle can carry, and how to correctly spread out your load. Also, it will help you match the right slide-in camper to your vehicle. When you carry a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of your vehicle is the weight of the camper, plus D everything else added to the camper after it left


the factory,


D everything in the camper and D all the people inside. The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But, you can figure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.


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Refer to the Truck-Camper Loading Information label in glove box for dimensions A and B as shown in the following illustration.


Here is an example of proper truck and camper match:


Use the rear edge of the load floor for measurement purposes. The recommended location for the cargo center of gravity is at point C for the CWR. It is the point where the mass of a body is concentrated and, if suspended at that point, would balance the front and rear.


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A. Camper Center of Gravity B. Recommended Center of Gravity Location Zone


The camper’s center of gravity should fall within the center of gravity zone for your vehicle’s cargo load. You must weigh any accessories or other equipment that you add to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra weight may shorten the center of gravity zone of your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. If your slide-in camper and its load weighs less than the CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger.


Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper match. He’ll also help you determine your CWR. After you’ve loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and weigh the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on your axles. The loads on the front and rear axles shouldn’t be more than either of the GAWRs. The total of the axle loads should not be more than the GVWR. Open your driver’s door and look at the Certification/Tire label to find out your GAWR and GVWR. If you’ve gone over your weight ratings, move or take out some things until all the weight falls below the ratings. Of course, you should always tie down any loose items when you load your vehicle or camper. When you install and load your slide-in camper, check the manufacturer’s instructions. If you want more information on curb weights, cargo weights, Cargo Weight Rating and the correct center of gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer can help you. Just ask for a copy of “Consumer Information, Truck-Camper Loading.”


Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the CWR for your vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the equalizer bars in place. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see “Trailer Towing” in the Index.


Camper Wiring Harness (If Equipped) If your vehicle is equipped with a camper wiring harness, see “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index for further information.


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Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may consider having the pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed. Before you do so, first contact the GM Customer Assistance Office for your area for information on such conversions specific to this vehicle. See the “Warranty and Owner Assistance” booklet for Customer Assistance Office. Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which may affect vehicle safety. The components necessary to adapt a pickup to permit its safe use with a specialized body should be installed by a body builder in accordance with the information available from the Customer Assistance Office.


Towing a Trailer


CAUTION:


If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


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NOTICE:


Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Additional rear rear axle maintenance is required for a vehicle used to tow a trailer. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.


That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: D There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


D Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh less than the capacity stamped on your step bumper. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than the capacity stamped on your step bumper. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.


D Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.


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D Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you


tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


D If you have an automatic transmission, you can


tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). See “Tow/Haul Mode” in the Index.


Three important considerations have to do with weight: D the weight of the trailer, D the weight of the trailer tongue D and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.


Tow/Haul Mode (If Equipped) Tow/haul is a feature on automatic transmission equipped vehicles that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is to: D Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability


of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.


D Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a


heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded.


D Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring


less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.


Automatic transmission equipped vehicles are provided with a button at the end of the shift lever which when pressed enables tow/haul. When the button is pressed, a light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that tow/haul has been selected. Tow/haul may be turned off by pressing the button again, at which time the indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off tow/haul every time it is started.


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Tow/haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). Tow/haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: D When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load


through rolling terrain.


D When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load


in stop and go traffic.


D When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load


in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.


Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of tow/haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. Use one of the following charts to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Above the 5,000 lbs. (2 268 kg) trailer rating, the handling/trailering suspension is required on C-1500
models and the handling/trailering or off-road suspension is required on K-1500 models. The engine oil cooler is required on C/K-2500 models with the VORTEC 6000 engine. Refer to the Trailering Guide for oil cooler recommendations.


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C-1500 Regular Cab Short Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.)


Max. Trailer Wt.


C-1500 Extended Cab Short Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.)


Max. Trailer Wt.


4300 V6 (Auto)


4300 V6 (Manual)


4800 V8 (Auto)


4800 V8 (Manual)


5300 V8


Axle Ratio 3.08
3.42
3.08
3.42
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73


4,700 lbs. (2 132 kg) 5,200 lbs. (2 359 kg) 3,700 lbs. (1 678 kg) 4,200 lbs. (1 905 kg) 6,600 lbs. (2 994 kg) 7,600 lbs. (3 447 kg) 4,600 lbs. (2 087 kg) 5,600 lbs. (2 540 kg) 7,600 lbs. (3 447 kg) 8,600 lbs. (3 901 kg)


4300 V6 (Auto)


4300 V6 (Manual) 4800 V8 (Auto)


4800 V8 (Manual)


5300 V8


Axle Ratio 3.42
3.73
3.42
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73


4,900 lbs. (2 223 kg) 5,900 lbs. (2 676 kg) 3,900 lbs. (1 769 kg) 6,300 lbs. (2 858 kg) 7,300 lbs. (3 311 kg) 4,300 lbs. (1 950 kg) 5,300 lbs. (2 404 kg) 7,300 lbs. (3 311 kg) 8,300 lbs. (3 765 kg)


* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 1,500 lb. (680 kg) maximum.


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C-1500 Crew Cab Short Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.)


Max. Trailer Wt.


C-1500 Extended Cab Long Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.)


Max. Trailer Wt.


6000 V8


8,300 lbs. (3 765 kg) 10,300 lbs. (4 672 kg)


C-1500 Regular Cab Long Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.)


Max. Trailer Wt.


4800 V8 (Auto)


4800 V8 (Manual)


5300 V8


Axle Ratio 3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73


6,100 lbs. (2 767 kg) 7,100 lbs. (3 220 kg) 4,100 lbs. (1 860 kg) 5,100 lbs. (2 313 kg) 7,100 lbs. (3 220 kg) 8,100 lbs. (3 674 kg)


Axle Ratio 3.73
4.10


Axle Ratio 3.08
3.42
3.08
3.42
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73


4300 V6 (Auto)


4300 V6 (Manual)


4800 V8 (Auto)


4800 V8 (Manual)


5300 V8


4,600 lbs. (2 087 kg) 5,100 lbs. (2 313 kg) 3,600 lbs. (1 633 kg) 4,100 lbs. (1 860 kg) 6,500 lbs. (2 948 kg) 7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg) 4,500 lbs. (2 041 kg) 5,500 lbs. (2 495 kg) 7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 856 kg)


* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 1,500 lb. (680 kg) maximum.


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K-1500 Regular Cab Short Box (4WD)* Engine (Trans.)


Max. Trailer Wt.


K-1500 Extended Cab Short Box (4WD)* Engine (Trans.)


Max. Trailer Wt.


4300 V6 (Auto)


4300 V6 (Manual)


4800 V8 (Auto)


4800 V8 (Manual)


5300 V8


Axle Ratio 3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10


4,900 lbs. (2 223 kg) 5,400 lbs. (2 449 kg) 3,900 lbs. (1 769 kg) 4,400 lbs. (1 996 kg) 7,300 lbs. (3 311 kg) 8,300 lbs. (3 765 kg) 5,300 lbs. (2 404 kg) 6,300 lbs. (2 858 kg) 8,300 lbs. (3 765 kg) 9,300 lbs. (4 218 kg)


4800 V8 (Auto)


4800 V8 (Manual)


5300 V8


7,000 lbs. (3 175 kg) 8,000 lbs. (3 629 kg) 5,000 lbs. (2 268 kg) 6,000 lbs. (2 624 kg) 8,000 lbs. (3 629 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 082 kg)


K-1500 Crew Cab Short Box (4WD)* Engine (Trans.)


Max. Trailer Wt.


6000 V8


8,000 lbs. (3 629 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 536 kg)


Axle Ratio 3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10


Axle Ratio 3.73
4.10


* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 1,500 lb. (680 kg) maximum.


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K-1500 Regular Cab Long Box (4WD)* Engine (Trans.)


Max. Trailer Wt.


K-1500 Extended Cab Long Box (4WD)* Engine (Trans.)


Max. Trailer Wt.


4300 V6 (Auto)


4300 V6 (Manual)


4800 V8 (Auto)


4800 V8 (Manual)


5300 V8


Axle Ratio 3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10


4800 V8 (Auto)


4800 V8 (Manual)


5300 V8


4,800 lbs. (2 177 kg) 5,300 lbs. (2 404 kg) 3,800 lbs. (1 724 kg) 4,300 lbs. (1 950 kg) 7,200 lbs. (3 266 kg) 8,200 lbs. (3 719 kg) 5,200 lbs. (2 359 kg) 6,200 lbs. (2 812 kg) 8,200 lbs. (3 719 kg) 9,200 lbs. (4 173 kg)


Axle Ratio 3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10


6,800 lbs. (3 084 kg) 7,800 lbs. (3 538 kg) 4,800 lbs. (2 177 kg) 5,800 lbs. (2 631 kg) 7,800 lbs. (3 538 kg) 8,800 lbs. (3 992 kg)


* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 1,500 lb. (680 kg) maximum.


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C-2500 (2WD)* Engine


6000 V8


Axle Ratio 3.73
4.10


Max. Trailer Wt.


8,800 lbs. (3 992 kg) 10,800 lbs. (4 899 kg)


C-2500 Regular Cab Long Box HD (2WD)* Engine Max. Trailer Wt.


6000 V8
8100 V8


Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


10,600 lbs. (3 402 kg) 13,900 lbs. (6 311 kg)** 15,900 lbs. (7 212 kg)** 15,900 lbs. (7 212 kg)** 15,900 lbs. (7 212 kg)**


C-2500 Extended Cab Short Box HD (2WD)* Max. Trailer Wt. Engine


6000 V8
8100 V8


Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


10,500 lbs. (4 763 kg) 13,800 lbs. (6 260 kg)** 15,800 lbs. (7 167 kg)** 15,700 lbs. (7 121 kg)** 15,700 lbs. (7 121 kg)**


* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum. 4-64


C-2500 Extended Cab Long Box HD (2WD)* Max. Trailer Wt. Engine


C-2500 Crew Cab Short Box HD (2WD)* Engine


Max. Trailer Wt.


6000 V8
8100 V8


Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


10,200 lbs. (4 627 kg) 13,400 lbs. (6 078 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)** 14,900 lbs. (6 758 kg)** 14,900 lbs. (6 758 kg)**


6000 V8
8100 V8


Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


10,300 lbs. (4 672 kg) 13,600 lbs. (6 169 kg)** 15,600 lbs. (7 076 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)**


* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum.


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C-2500 Crew Cab Long Box HD (2WD)* Engine


Max. Trailer Wt.


K-2500 Extended Cab Short Box HD (4WD)* Max. Trailer Wt. Engine


6000 V8
8100 V8


Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


10,200 lbs. (4 627 kg) 13,500 lbs. (6 123 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)** 14,900 lbs. (6 758 kg)** 14,900 lbs. (6 758 kg)**


6000 V8
8100 V8


Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


10,200 lbs. (4 627 kg) 13,500 lbs. (6 123 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)**


K-2500 Extended Cab Short Box (4WD)* Engine


Max. Trailer Wt.


6000 V8


8,300 lbs. (3 765 kg) 10,300 lbs. (4 672 kg)


Axle Ratio 3.73
4.10


* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum.


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K-2500 Regular Cab Long Box HD (4WD)* Max. Trailer Wt. Engine


K-2500 Extended Cab Long Box HD (4WD)* Max. Trailer Wt. Engine


6000 V8
8100 V8


Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


10,400 lbs. (4 717 kg) 13,700 lbs. (6 214 kg)** 15,700 lbs. (7 121 kg)** 15,600 lbs. (7 076 kg)** 15,600 lbs. (7 076 kg)**


6000 V8
8100 V8


Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


10,200 lbs. (4 627 kg) 13,500 lbs. (6 123 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)**


* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum.


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K-2500 Crew Cab Short Box HD (4WD)* Engine


Max. Trailer Wt.


K-2500 Crew Cab Long Box HD (4WD)* Engine


Max. Trailer Wt.


6000 V8
8100 V8


Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


10,000 lbs. (4 536 kg) 13,200 lbs. (5 987 kg)** 15,200 lbs. (6 895 kg)** 15,200 lbs. (6 895 kg)** 15,200 lbs. (6 895 kg)**


6000 V8
8100 V8


Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


9,900 lbs. (4 491 kg) 13,200 lbs. (5 987 kg)** 15,200 lbs. (6 895 kg)** 15,100 lbs. (6 849 kg)** 15,100 lbs. (6 849 kg)**


* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum. 4-68


C-3500 Regular Cab HD (2WD)* Engine


Max. Trailer Wt.


Axle Ratio 4.10
6000 V8
8100 V8
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


Axle Ratio 4.10
6000 V8
8100 V8
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73


10,400 lbs. (4 717 kg) 15,700 lbs. (7 121 kg)** 15,800 lbs. (7 167 kg)** 15,800 lbs. (7 167 kg)**


10,100 lbs. (4 581 kg) 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)**


C-3500 Crew Cab (2WD)* Engine


Axle Ratio 4.10
6000 V8
8100 V8
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


Max. Trailer Wt.


9,900 lbs. (4 491 kg) 15,300 lbs. (6 940 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)**


Axle Ratio 4.10
6000 V8
4.10
8100 V8
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


10,100 lbs. (4 582 kg) 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)**


C-3500 Extended Cab (2WD)* Engine


Max. Trailer Wt.


K-3500 Regular Cab (4WD)* Engine


Max. Trailer Wt.


* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum.


4-69


K-3500 Extended Cab (4WD)* Engine


Max. Trailer Wt.


Axle Ratio 4.10
6000 V8
8100 V8
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


9,800 lbs. (4 445 kg) 15,100 lbs. (6 849 kg)** 14,800 lbs. (6 713 kg)** 14,800 lbs. (6 713 kg)**


K-3500 Crew Cab (4WD)* Engine


Axle Ratio 4.10
6000 V8
8100 V8
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10


Max. Trailer Wt.


9,800 lbs. (4 445 kg) 15,100 lbs. (6 849 kg)** 15,200 lbs. (6 895 kg)** 15,200 lbs. (6 895 kg)**


* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum. 4-70


You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to:


General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7


Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


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If you’re using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.


Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: D If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper


could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.


D If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will


weigh more than the capacity stamped on your step bumper, be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.


4-72


Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. For trailers up to 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) you may attach the safety chains to the attaching points on the bumper. For heavier trailers, follow the trailer or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.


Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if: D The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi


(20 650 kPa) of pressure.


D The trailer’s brake system will use less than


0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.


4-73


Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods of sunshine, the floor of the truck bed may become very warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed that might be affected by high ambient temperatures. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.


4-74


Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns


NOTICE:


Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.


When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).


You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode” in the Index. If you have a 5-speed manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). If you have a 6-speed manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use SIXTH (6) gear. Drive in FIFTH (5) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.


4-75


Parking on Hills


CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into


PARK (P) yet for an automatic transmission, or into gear for a manual transmission.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.


4-76


5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure


the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in NEUTRAL (N).


6. Release the regular brakes.


CAUTION:


It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL.


When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you: D Start your engine; D Shift into a gear; and D Release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.


Trailer Wiring Harness Your vehicle is equipped with one of the following wiring harnesses for towing a trailer or hauling a slide-in camper.


Basic Trailer Wiring Package All regular, extended cab crew cab pickups have a six-wire trailer towing harness.


The six-wire harness is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to the vehicle’s frame. The harness requires the installation of a trailer-wiring harness connector, which is available through your dealer.


4-77


The six-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: D Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal D Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal D Brown: Taillamps D White: Ground D Light Green: Back-up Lamps D Light Blue: Center High-Mounted


Stoplamp (CHMSL)


If you need to upgrade your vehicle to heavy-duty trailering, a brake controller harness and an underbody harness with a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector are available from your dealer.


4-78


Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package (If Equipped)


Your pickup may be equipped with the eight-wire trailer towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector is attached to a bracket on the platform hitch.* * The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) wire is tied next to the trailer wiring harness for use with a trailer, slide-in camper or cap.


The eight-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: D Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal D Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal D Brown: Taillamps D White: Ground D Light Green: Back-up Lamps D Light Blue: CHMSL D Red: Battery Feed D Dark Blue: Trailer Brake A jumper harness for an electric trailer brake controller and a trailer battery feed fuse are included with this trailering package. (See “Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness” later in this section.) If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector is available from your dealer.


Camper/Fifth-Wheel Trailer Wiring Package (If Equipped) The eight-wire camper harness is located under the front edge of the pickup box on the driver’s side of the vehicle, attached to the frame bracket. A connector will have to be added to the wiring harness which connects to the camper. The eight-wire harness contains the following camper/trailer circuits: D Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal D Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal D Brown: Taillamps D White: Ground D Light Green: Back-up Lamps D Light Blue: Center High-Mounted


Stoplamp (CHMSL)


D Red: Battery Feed D Dark Blue: Trailer Brake A jumper harness for an electric trailer brake controller and a trailer battery feed fuse are included with this trailering package. (See “Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness” later in this section.)


4-79


Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness


If your vehicle is equipped with the “Heavy-Duty Trailering” option, please refer to “Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package”, earlier in this section. When the camper-wiring harness is ordered without the heavy-duty trailering package, an eight-wire harness with a seven-pin connector and separate CHMSL connector are located at the rear of the vehicle and are tied to the vehicle’s frame.


This harness is included with the heavy-duty and camper/fifth-wheel trailer wiring packages. The harness is for an electric trailer brake controller and includes a trailer battery feed fuse. This harness and fuse should be installed by your dealer or a qualified service center.


4-80


Auxiliary Battery (If Equipped) The auxiliary battery provision can be used to supply electrical power to additional equipment that you may choose to add, such as a slide-in camper.


If your vehicle has this provision, this relay will be located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, next to the auxiliary battery.


When using this provision, connection should only be made to the upper stud (A) of the relay. Do not make connections to the lower stud (B) of the relay. The auxiliary battery circuit is protected by a megafuse located behind the auxiliary battery. Be sure to follow the proper installation instructions that are included with any electrical equipment that you install.


NOTICE:


When using the auxiliary battery provision, the electrical load must not exceed 30 amps. Always turn off any electrical equipment when not in use. Leaving electrical equipment on for extended periods will drain your battery.


Power Winches If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored.


NOTICE:


Using a power winch with the transmission in gear may damage the transmission. When operating a power winch, always leave the transmission in NEUTRAL (N).


Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake, or block the wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling.


4-81


Power Take-Off (PTO) (If Equipped)


NOTICE:


If you have a PTO that will exceed 35 hp installed on your vehicle, it could damage the transfer case or transmission. When having a PTO installed on your vehicle, make sure that it will not exceed 35 hp.


Before using a PTO, refer to the manufacturer’s or installer’s instructions.


NOTICE:


Using a PTO while operating in one place before the vehicle has reached normal operating temperature can damage the transfer case or transmission. If you will be using the PTO while operating in one place, drive and warm up the vehicle before using the PTO.


To engage a PTO on a vehicle with a manual transmission: 1. Hold the clutch pedal down. 2. Set the parking brake. 3. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL (N). 4. Engage the PTO. Refer to the manufacturer’s


or installer’s for instructions on electrically engaged PTOs.


5. For mobile operations, shift the transmission into


the gear you want, apply the regular brakes and release the parking brake. For stationary operations, leave the parking brake applied.


6. Release the clutch and regular brakes as you


normally would. When the clutch is released, the PTO will start.


7. Turn the PTO rotary switch to ON. To engage a PTO on a vehicle with an automatic transmission: 1. Engine speed must be less than 1000 rpm. 2. Turn the PTO rotary switch ON.


4-82


Using PTO speed control in Preset Mode (Factory Setting): 1. Engage the PTO. 2. Select PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) range.


Apply the parking brake in NEUTRAL (N) is selected. Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) lockup is not available in NEUTRAL (N) and is available only in PARK when engine speed is above 1100 rpm.


3. Make sure your foot is off the brake pedal


(and off the clutch on vehicles equipped with a manual transmission). Select the desired engine speed for PTO operation. Please read the following Preset Mode information regarding operation. Preset Mode: PTO speed control mode is used for stationary applications. This mode provides a default standby speed of 800 or 850 rpm (depending on the engine/transmission combination) and two default PTO control speeds which follow: D PTO Fast Idle Speed of 1250 rpm, or D PTO Fast Idle Resume Speed of 1700 rpm. Standby speed (800/850 rpm) is not to be used as a PTO control speed. Vehicles not equipped with cruise control will not have the resume speed capability.


Using PTO speed control in Variable Mode (Mobile): 1. Engage the PTO. 2. Vehicle speed must be greater than 5 mph for vehicles equipped with gasoline engines or greater than 0 mph for vehicles equipped with diesel engines.


3. Make sure your foot is off the brake pedal


(and off the clutch for vehicles equipped with a manual transmission).


4. Select the desired engine speed (with the foot pedal)


and select SET on the PTO switch or with the cruise control.


Using PTO speed control in Variable Mode (Stationary): 1. Engage the PTO. 2. Vehicle speed must be less than 5 mph for vehicles


equipped with gasoline engines or at 0 mph for vehicles equipped with diesel engines.


3. Make sure your foot is off the brake pedal


(and off the clutch for vehicles equipped with a manual transmission).


4. Select the desired engine speed (with the foot pedal)


and select SET on the PTO switch or with the cruise control.


4-83


Step-Bumper Pad If your vehicle has a rear step bumper, it may be equipped with a rear step pad at the center of the bumper.


If you will be using the bumper to tow a trailer, you must remove the center cutout circle to install the trailer ball.


Variable Mode: PTO speed control mode can be used for both stationary and mobile applications. This mode allows PTO to be controlled in a fashion similar to how cruise control sets vehicle speed. The operator can set to an rpm (between 800 and 2200) with the cruise control feature or with the SET position on the PTO switch. The operator is then able to increase engine speed in 100 rpm increments with the resume position on the cruise control. The operator can also decrease engine speed in 100 rpm increments with either the SET position on the cruise control or the PTO switch. Vehicles not equipped with cruise control will not have the resume capability. All engine speed values listed above are factory preset values. With the exception of the TCC lockup speed (1100 rpm) and the “tap” increment (100 rpm), all of these values are programmable and can be adjusted by your GM dealer or body upfitter. If the PTO software settings do not match the settings shown here, then they may have already been altered in order to satisfy the requirements of the installed PTO system and body equipment.


4-84


Section 5 Problems on the Road


Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.


5-2
5-2
5-3
5-8
5-8


Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating (Gasoline Engine)


5-11
5-18
5-18
5-19
5-34


Cooling System (Gasoline Engine) Engine Fan Noise If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow


5-


5-1


Hazard Warning Flashers


Press the button located at the top of the steering column all the way down to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off.


Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. To turn off the flashers, press the button until the first click and release. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can use them to warn others. Set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.


Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.


5-2


Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please use the following steps to do it safely.


CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: D They contain acid that can burn you. D They contain gas that can explode or ignite. D They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


NOTICE:


Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. The ACDelcoR battery in your vehicle has a built-in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.


1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


NOTICE:


If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.


5-3


2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL (N). If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL (N).


3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off all lamps that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. In addition, it could save your radio!


4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and


negative (-) terminal locations on the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (-) jump starting terminal. The remote positive (+) terminal is located behind a red plastic cover near the engine accessory drive bracket. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover. On all V8 gasoline and diesel engines, the remote negative (-) terminal is located on the engine accessory drive bracket. This is marked “GND” on V8 engines. On V6 engines, the remote negative (-) terminal is located on a tab attached to the engine accessory drive bracket where it is marked “GND”. You should always use the remote positive (+) and the remote negative (-) terminals instead of the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on your battery.


NOTICE:


If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.


5-4


CAUTION:


CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelcoR battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or a remote positive terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or a remote negative terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. On vehicles equipped with dual batteries, make all battery connections to the remote positive (+) and remote negative (-) terminals.


5-5


6. Connect the red


positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Now connect the black


negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) cable. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.


Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part of the vehicle with the dead battery or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.


5-6


12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent


electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.


V8 Engine


V6 Engine, Diesel Similar


9. When connecting the cable, be sure it is not near


any engine parts that will move.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and


run the engine for awhile.


11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery


5-7


1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the heavy, unpainted metal engine part on the vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the


negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your vehicle towed. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” in the Index. In addition, you will find a LOW COOLANT, CHECK COOLANT TEMP, ENGINE OVERHEATED and a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message in the message center on the instrument panel. See “Message Center” in the Index.


5-8


Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) Should an overheated engine condition exist and the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided.


NOTICE:


After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life monitor. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


CAUTION: (Continued)


from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.


CAUTION:


NOTICE:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming


CAUTION: (Continued)


If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.


5-9


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic. D Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it’s on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the window as necessary.


3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);


otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- DRIVE (D) for automatic transmissions.


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


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Cooling System (Gasoline Engine) When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:


8100 V8 Engines


All Other Engines


A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan


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If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.


CAUTION:


When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the FILL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


NOTICE:


Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.


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NOTICE:


When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.


If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank --Gasoline Engines If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FILL COLD mark, add a 50/50
mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.


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CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


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CAUTION:


NOTICE:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. So use the recommended coolant.


CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


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3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper


mixture, to the FILL COLD mark.


1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure


cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and


remove it.


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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start


the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FILL COLD mark.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure


cap is hand-tight.


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Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.


If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


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CAUTION: (Continued)


4. Turn off the engine. 5. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.


Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.


CAUTION:


Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in


PARK (P) or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).

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