everything in the camper; and all the people inside.
The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But, you can figure about 150 pounds for each seating position. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.
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Truck Loading Information
1. Recommended
location for cargo center of gravity for cargo weight rating. This is the point where the mass of a body is concentrated and, if suspended at that point, would balance front and rear.
Refer to Truck Camper Loading Information label in the glove box for “”’and “B” dimensions. Use rear edge of load floor for measurement purposes.
Example of Proper Truck and Camper Match
1. Camper center of
gravity.
2. Recommended center of gravity location zone.
in a long box pickup. Check your
The camper’s center of gravity should fall within the center of gravity zone for your vehicle’s cargo load. Campers can only be installed Truck-Camper Loading Label in your glovebox to determine if your vehicle can carry a slide-in camper. You must weigh any accessories, trailer hitches or other equipment you add to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra weight may shorten the center of gravity zone for your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this.
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If your slide-in camper and its load weigh less than the CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger. Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper match. He’ll also help you determine your CWR. After you’ve loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and weigh on the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on your axles. The loads on the front and rear axles shouldn’t be more than either of the GAWRs. The total of the axle loads should not be more than the GVWR. Open your driver’s door and look at the door lock pillar for the Certificatiomire label to find out your GAWR and GVWR. If you’ve gone over your weight ratings, move or take out some things until all the weights fall below the ratings. Of course, you should always tie down any loose items when you load your vehicle or camper. When you install and load your slide-in camper, check the manufacturer’s instructions. If you want more information on curb weights, cargo weights, cargo weight rating and the correct center of gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer can help you. Just ask for a copy of “Consumer Information, Truck-Camper Loading.”
Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the CWR for your vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with your trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or the GAWR. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index. Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may consider having the pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed. However, we recommend that conversions of this type not be done to pickups. Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which may affect vehicle safety. For specific information on this pickup, contact the GM Zone Office for your area. (See the “Warranty and Owner Assistance” booklet for Zone Office.)
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Towing a Trailer
NOTICE: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your GM dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
Most vehicles are ready for some trailer towing. If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points.
There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 2,000 pounds (900 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than 2,000 pounds (900 kg). You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.
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Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. If you have an automatic transmission, you should use DRIVE (D) (or, as you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in DRIVE (D) when towing a trailer will minimize heat build-up and extend the life of your transmission. If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear)-
Three important considerations have to do with weight: Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to: General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Assistance Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7 Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The gross vehicle weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
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A
If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label on the driver’s door lock pillar or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:
If you use a step bumper hitch, and your trailer tongue has a V-shaped foot, your bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Check the distance from the front edge of the foot to the middle of the hitch ball socket. If the distance is less than 12 inches, take the foot off the trailer tongue. If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 2,000 pounds (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving. If your vehicle has the bumper delete option, do not bolt any type of hitch to the close-out panel. The close-out panel will not support a hitch.
4-45
Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes - and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer brakes system can tap into vehicle’s hydraulic brake system except: Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system will use more than 0.02 cubic inch ( 0 . 3 ~ ~ ) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. If it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. Will the trailer parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.
4-46
Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
I NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal flasher (included in the optional trailering package). The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
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Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. Parking on Hi//s You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet, or into
gear for a manual transmission. When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the
chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then
shift into PARK (P), or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission. 5. If you have a four-wheeldrive vehicle with a manual transfer case
shift lever, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear - not in NEUTRAL (N).
6. Release the parking brake.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine; Shift into a gear; and Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Lighting Systems Wiring See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.
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Notes
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Problems on the Road
Section
Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road. Hazard Warning Flashers
1 and off.
..@ .
Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on
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Push the button on top of the steering column all the way down to make your front and rear turn signal lights flash on and off. Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.
To turn off the flashers, push the button until the first click and release. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. The flashers will stop if you step on the brake. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.
5 - 2
NOTICE: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it could damage your vehicle, even if you have a manual transmission. And if you have an automatic transmission, it won’t start that way.
To Jump Start Your Vehicle; 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative
ground system.
NOTICE: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be
sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. You could be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL (N). If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a manual transfer case shift lever, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL (N).
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all lights that aren’t
needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!
NOTICE: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repair wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.
4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and
negative (-) terminals on each battery.
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A CAUTION:
5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If
they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect (+) to (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.
A CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engines are running,
6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the
vehicle with the dead battery.
5-4
Dead Battery (+)
Good Battery (+)
7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+)
terminal of the good battery.
8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative
(-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.
Good Battery (-)
Heavy Metal Engine Part
9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.
5-5
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a
while.
11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few
tries make sure all connections are good. If it still won’t start, it probably needs service.
12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent electrical shorting. Take
care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.
Remove Cables In This Order:
1. Heavy Metal Engine Part
2. Good Battery (-) 3. Good Battery (+) 4. Dead Batten (+)
Towing Your Vehicle Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know how to tow it without damage. If your vehicle has been changed since it was factory-new by adding things like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these things could be damaged during towing. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:
0 Whether your vehicle has rear-wheel drive or four-wheel drive.
The make, model, and year of your vehicle.
0 Whether you can move the shift lever for the transmission and shift the
transfer case, if you have one.
0 If there was an accident, what was damaged.
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When your vehicle is being towed, have the key off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transmission (either automatic or manual) should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the transfer case (either manual shift or electronic shift), if you have one, should be in 2HI. The parking brake should be released. Don’t have your vehicle towed on the rear wheels, unless you have to. If the vehicle must be towed on the rear wheels, don’t go more than 35 mph (56 kmk) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transmission will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the rear drive wheels have to be supported on a dolly.
5-7
Towing From the Front
5-8
NOTICE: Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the front bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option, a dolly MUST be used under the rear wheels when towing from the front.
Towing From the Rear
5-9
I
NOTICE: Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the rear bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option, a dolly MUST be used under the front wheels when towing from the rear.
Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle's instrument panel. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades’’ in the Index.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the
window as necessary.
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the
highest gear while driving - AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (0) or DRIVE (D) for automatic transmissions.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turn ofSthe engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
5-11
When you decide it's safe to lift the hood, here's what you'll see: A. Coolant recovery
tank
B. Radiator pressure
cap
C. Engine fan
If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don't do anything else until it cools down.
The coolant level should be at the ADD mark. If it isn't, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.
5-12
NOTICE: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.
If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at ADD, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)
I NOTICE:
In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant.
5-13
When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at ADD, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there's one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.
5-14
How to Add Coolant to the Radiator
1 . You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system,
including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.
5- 15
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pres sure cap.
3. Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base of the filler neck.
4. Then fill the
coolant recovery tank to the ADD mark.
5-16
5. Put the cap back
on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off.
6. Start the engine
and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan.
7. By this time the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.
8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.
5-17
Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day driving conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages. if a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
5-18
Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.
A. Flat Tire B. Blocked Tire
5-19
The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. Jacking Equipment Storage The jacking equipment you’ll need is stored behind the front seats, either on the center wall (extended cab) or along the right wall (regular cab).
To remove your jack cover, if you have one, turn the plastic wing nut counterclockwise. Remove the jack cover.
To remove the wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench, turn the wing nut counterclockwise. Pull the wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench off.
5-20
Jack Storage Cover
1. Hub Cap Removal Tool (on some 4. Hub Cap Removal Tool (on some
models)
models)
2. Cover (Extended Cab) 3. Cover (Standard Cab)
5. Bolt
NOTE: Restore cover and hub cap removal tool if provided.
5-21
Jacking Equipment
1. Wheel Wrench 2. Bracket 3. Jacking Instructions Tag (Roll
and place tag behind the bracket after the tools are installed)
4. Bolt Location (Standard) 5. Bolt Location (ZR2)
Spare Tire
6. Wheel Blocks 7. Nut 8. Rubber Band
9. Jack Position (ZR2) 10. Jack Position (Standard)
Your spare tire is stored underneath the rear of your vehicle.
5-22
To Remove the Underbody-Mounted Spare Tire
I NOTICE:
Never remove or restow a tire frodto a stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle is supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle when restowing.
Insert the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, into the hole in the rear bumper. Be sure the chisel end of the wheel wrench connects into the hoist shaft.
...
spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.
5-23
When the tire has been completely lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.
NOTICE: To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive vehicle before cable is restored.
Underbody-Mounted Spare Tire
1. Wheel Wrench 2. Hoist Assembly 3. Retainer
4. Spring 5 . Tire 6. Valve Stem (Pointed Down)
Changing the Tire Start with the jacking equipment. See “Jacking Equipment Storage” earlier in this section.
Turn the jackhandle clockwise. That will raise the jack lifthead a little.
Before you start, block the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. Put your spare tire near the flat tire.
Hub Caps And Wheel Nut Caps You will have to take off hub caps or wheel nut caps to reach your wheel nuts.
If you have individual wheel nut caps that cover each nut, they must be removed in order to get the wheel nuts off. Use the socket end of the wheel wrench to remove the wheel nut caps.
5-25
Your wheel nut caps may attach your hub cap to the wheel. Remove these
Some jack storage covers are equipped with a hub cap removal tool. Position the hub cap removal tool in the notch and pull straight away from the wheel to avoid potential damage to the hub cap and wheel paindwheel surface.
Remove the hub cap.
If you have just an aluminum or plastic molded hub cap, pry it off with the chisel end of your wheel wrench.
Some of the molded plastic hub caps have imitation wheel nuts molded into them. The wheel wrench won’t fit these imitation nuts, so don’t try to remove them with the socket end of the wheel wrench.
5-26
Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet.
Do not jack up the vehicle with people in or near the vehicle. Position the jack under the vehicle.
A. Front Frame Hole B. Rear Frame Hole (ZR2) C . Spring Hanger Hole (Standard Pickups) Your vehicle has a hole in the frame near each front wheel for the jack. On standard pickups there is a hole in the spring hanger near each rear wheel for the jack. On ZR2 models, the hole for the jack is located in the frame in front of each rear wheel. Fit the jack into the hole nearest the flat tire.
5-27
NOTICE: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.
Raise the vehicle by turning the jackhandle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.
Remove all the wheel nuts.
5-28
Take off the flat tire.
Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.
5-29
Put on the spare tire.
I ~ ~ ~ ~ , , ~ . ; " ~ , ' ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ . ~ ~ ~ . ;,~,$
ii ,,
Put the nuts on by hand. Make sure the cone-shaped end is toward the wheel.
Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. If a nut can't be turned by hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon as possible.
Lower the vehicle by turning the jackhandle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
~ i
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Tightening Wheel Nut
Tightening Sequence
Use the wrench to tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Remove the wheel blocks.
Storing the Jack and Spare Tire Return the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks to the proper location behind the seat. Secure the items and replace the jack cover, if you have one. Put the flat tire where the spare tire was stored. If you have the underbody carrier:
1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle, with the valve stem
pointed down and to the rear.
2. Pull the retaining bar through the wheel.
NOTE: With ZR2 option, spring and retainer must be separated to insert through wheel opening.
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3. Put the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, through the hole in
the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise until the tire is raised against the underside of the vehicle. You will hear two “clicks” when the tire is secure, but pull on the tire to make sure.
I NOTICE:
Don’t use the existing hoist to store a tire with an aluminum wheel or it could damage the wheel. Secure the tire in the pickup bed.
If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.
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NOTICE: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) gear and REVERSE), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index. Using the Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.
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NOTICE: Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.
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Service & Appearance Care
Section
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care. Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index.
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You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.
NOTICE: If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough about it, your vehicle could be damaged.
Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index.) Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. With the 4.3L (Code W) engine, use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 9 1 octane or higher for high power performance, when towing a trailer or with a high payload requirement. But when operating with a light load as a normal condition, you may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines. The gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the United States and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see UNLEADED right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane is at least 91 for premium, 89 for middle grade and 87 for regular. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy
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knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 91 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of it. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 1 5% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.
NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.
Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions.
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Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation, North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7 Filling Your Tank
/”
The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle.
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While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door.
To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).
Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear a clicking noise.
I NOTICE:
If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.
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Checking Things Under the Hood
To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle on the lower driver’s side of the instrument panel.
Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release.
Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. You will have an underhood light that comes on when you lift the hood.
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c- b I
Before closing the
hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood Prop.
Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer.
Then just pull the hood down firmly to close. It will latch when dropped from 10 - 12 inches (25.5 - 30.48 cm) without pressing on the hood.
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Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down.
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When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.
I NOTICE:
Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.
The engine oil filler cap is located on the driver’s side engine valve cover. Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through. What Kind of Oil to Use Oils of the proper quality for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. The “Starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is preferred for use in your gasoline engine.
If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the “Starburst” symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.
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You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:
RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS
FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.
LOOK
FOR THIS SYMBOL
HOT
WEATHER / F + 100 .
- +3a - + 2 7 - +16
+80 - +60 - +40 - + 2 0 -
0 .
- + 4
- - 7 - - 18
SAE IOW-30
IF NEITHER SAE 5W-30 NOR SAE 1OW-30
SAE 5w-30 GRADE OILS ARE AVAILABLE, SAE 30
GRADE MAY BE USED AT TEMPERATURES ABOVE 40 DEGREES F (4 DEGREES C). DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED
COLD
WEATHER
As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.
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I NOTICE:
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the proper oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.
GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle.
Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.
When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:
Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop and go traffic). You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently.
0 You frequently tow a trailer.
If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first.
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Four-wheel Drive Remote Oil Filter If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, you will have a remote oil filter. There is a special access door in the steering linkage shield assembly located under the radiator support. Twist the screw to lock or unlock the door.
Engine Coolant Heater An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0°F (-1 8 O C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. Air Cleaner To remove the round air cleaner filter for the 4.3L (VIN 2) engine, turn the wing nuts counterclockwise. Remove the cover and change the filter. Care should be taken during reassembly to ensure that the cover is on straight and the wingnuts are properly tightened.
= To avoid ingesting
dust in the engine, the arrow on the air cleaner lid should point to the front of the engine.
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To remove the rectangular air cleaner filter for the 4.3L (VIN W) engine, open both clamps and push the rear of the air cleaner back toward the rear of the engine compartment to change the filter. While reassembling the air cleaner assembly, ensure that the air cleaner cover tabs are fully inserted into the slots in the air cleaner housing. On the 4.3L (VIN W) engine, also make certain that the PCV air tube is properly seated in the left hand valve cover. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index.
I NOTICE:
If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.
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Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
I NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.
on
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
0 At high speed for quite a while. 0 In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather. 0 While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). To check transmission fluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 krn) when outside temperatures are above 50°F ( 1 0°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), drive the vehicle in THIRD GEAR (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.
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To check transmissionfluid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F ( 10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F ( lO"C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.
To check the fluid hot or cold
Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P).
0 With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each
gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
1. Flip the handle
up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out
again.
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3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid
level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all
the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.
How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a int. Don ’I overjill. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON -111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the wav: then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.
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Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn't require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.
NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.
Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case. Then, follow these steps:
1. Remove the filler
Plug-
2. Check that the
lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If
the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.
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How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the
fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. A slight amount of play (1/4 inch to 1/2 inch) in the pedal is normal. When to Check and What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid.
See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
How to Check The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap.
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Rear Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four- Wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication.
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.
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How to Check Lubricant
What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Front Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check Lubricant
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. If the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
If the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole.
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to determine what kind of lubricant to
What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your vehicle will:
Index.
Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37 “C). Give boiling protection up to 262°F (128 “C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.
What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 6038-M,” or “GM Specification 6043-M’ with the 2.2L (LN2) Code 4 engine, which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to “GM Specification 603%”’ or “GM Specification 6043-M” with the 2.2L (LN2) Code 4 engine. Use GM Coolant Supplement (Sealer) with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.
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NOTICE: If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
Some conditions, such as air trapped in the cooling system, can affect the coolant level in the radiator. Check the coolant level when the engine is cold and follow the steps under “Adding Coolant” for the proper way to add coolant. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.
NOTICE: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.
Adding Coolant
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To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT, or a little higher.
To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tank.
Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.
Radiator Pressure Cap
NOTICE: Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.
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When you replace your radiator pressure cap, a GM cap is recommended. See "Service Replacement Part and Filter Recommendations" in the Index.
Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended. Power Steering Fluid
il
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How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. Add enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
What to Add Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See "Recommended Fluids and Lubricants" in the Index.
NOTICE: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.
To Add
Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.
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NOTICE:
When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
0 Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.
0 Fill your washer fluid tank only 314 full when it’s very cold.
This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
0 Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It
can damage your washer system and paint.
Brakes Brake Master Cylinder Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.
~~
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in your master cylinder might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
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Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.
To Check Brake Fluid
You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the windows on the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid levels should be above MIN. If they aren’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the levels are above MIN and below the top of each window.
What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid - sucn as (GM Part No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a Delco Supreme I I sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.
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NOTICE:
Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.
Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).
I NOTICE:
Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may Cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.
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Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times.
Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your vehicle does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in - be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Every new vehicle has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom@ battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label.
Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.
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Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn't running.
Sealed Beam Headlamps
1. Remove the
screws from the headlamp retainer.
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2. Pull the headlamp
out and remove the retainer. 3. Unplug and remove the headlamp.
4. Plug in the new headlamp and put it in place. 5. Put the retainer on the headlamp and install and tighten the screws. Halogen Bulbs
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Composite Headlamps
1. Open the hood. 2. Remove the black
protective caps from the removal pins at the top of the radiator support. Use a hex socket to unscrew pins.
3. Pull the headlamp
lens assembly out. (Some vehicles may have side by side bulbs.)
4. Unplug the electrical connector.
5. Turn the bulb
counterclockwise to remove it.
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6. Put the new bulb into the headlamp lens assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.
7. Plug in the
electrical connector.
8. Put the headlamp lens assembly back into the vehicle. Install and
tighten the screws.
Front Parlcrrurn Signal Lamps (Composite and Sealed Beam) If you have fog lamps, the fog lamp bracket must be removed before you can replace the front park/turn signal lamps.
,.: :; .
I . Reach under the
bumper and behind the parkinghrn signal lamp assembly.
2. Push the tab on the socket, turn the socket counterclockwise and pull it out.
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3. Holding the base of the bulb, pull the bulb straight out of the socket.
4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 5. Put the socket back into the parkinghum signal lamp assembly and turn
it clockwise until it locks in place.
Rear Lamps
1. Open the tailgate. 2. Remove the
screws from the lamp assembly near the tailgate latch. Pull out the assembly.
3. Pull the assembly
away from the pickup side panel.
4. Turn the socket
counterclockwise to remove it. Push the tab in while you turn the socket.
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5. Pull the bulb out. 6. Push the new bulb into the socket. 7. Put the socket into the assembly and turn the socket clockwise until it
locks in place.
8. Replace the assembly. Install and tighten the screws. 9. Close the tailgate. Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL)
3. Remove the
CHMSL bulb. 4. Install the new CHMSL bulb.
5. Replace the
CHMSL lens. Install and tighten the screws.
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Other Maintenance Items Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
I NOTICE:
Use care when removing or installing a blade assembly. Accidental bumping can cause the arm to fall back and strike the windshield.
To Remove the Old Wiper Blade:
0 Lift the wiper arm until it locks into a vertical position.
1. Blade Assembly 2. Arm Assembly 3. Locking Tab 4. Blade Pivot 5. Hook Slot 6. Arm Hook Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.
Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.
To Install the New Wiper Blade:
Slide the insert (notched end last) into the blade claws at end “A”. Plastic caps will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.
1. End “A” 2. End “B” 3. Retaining Caps 4. Notch
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Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.
1. Claw in Notch 2. Correct Installation 3. Incorrect Installation Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.
0 Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly onto the windshield. Air Conditioning Every now and then have your dealership check your air conditioning system to be sure it has not lost any cooling ability. If you think the system is not working properly, have your dealership check it out as soon as possible. The air conditioning will not work when the temperature is below 40°F (4°C).
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Lock Cylinders To be sure your locks operate properly, they must be lubricated. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to lubricate them and what type of lubricant to use. You should not use penetrating oils because they could wash out the factory installed lubricant and cause the lock to bind. De-icers which contain alcohol could also wash away the lubricant, so be sure to lubricate the lock after using a de-icer of this type. Exhaust System To help prevent damage to your exhaust system, do not continue to drive your vehicle if you notice:
Engine misfiring Loss of performance Exhaust system components hanging lower than normal. Loud exhaust system noises. Other unusual operating conditions
Have your engine and exhaust system serviced regularly.
Three-way Catalytic Converter Your vehicle’s three-way catalytic converter is designed to reduce the pollutants in your vehicle’s exhaust. Use only unleaded fuel in your vehicle. If you use leaded fuel, you could damage your three-way catalytic converter and other engine components.
Engine Control Module System This system has an oxygen (02) sensor that helps keep your engine’s air-fuel mixture at a proper level. Use only unleaded fuel in your vehicle. If you use leaded fuel, you could damage your oxygen (02) sensor and affect your vehicle’s emissions.
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) This light on your instrument panel lets you know when your emission system needs service. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.
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Tires We don’t make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. These tires are warranted by the tire manufacturers and their warranties are delivered with every new vehicle. If your spare tire is a different brand than your road tires, you will have a tire warranty folder from each of these manufacturers.
Inflation - Tire Pressure The CertificatiodTire label which is on the driver’s door lock pillar, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires, when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than a mile.
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~~
NOTICE: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation) you can get:
Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy.
If your tires have too much air (overinflati
can get ‘ e
r e
Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards.
When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.
How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires - which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated. If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be inspected every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km) for any signs of unusual wear. If unusual wear is present, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When it’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information.
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The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.
FRT
When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here.
FRT
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After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the CertificatiodTire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.
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When it’s Time for New Tires
Tread Wear Indicators One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
You need a new tire if:
You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber.
0 The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show
cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage because of the size or location of the damage.
that can’t be repaired well
Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certificationmire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 112) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -A, By C The traction grades, from highest to lowest are: A, B, and C. They represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straight-ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction. Temperature - A, 9, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.
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Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. These grades are molded on the sidewalls of passenger car tires. While the tires available as standard or optional equipment on General Motors vehicles may vary with respect to these grades, all such tires meet General Motors performance standards and have been approved for use on General Motors vehicles. All passenger type (P Metric) tires must conform to Federal safety requirements in addition to these grades. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.