1995 Chevrolet S10 Owners Manual

Your odometer shows how far your vehicle has been driven, in either miles (used in the U.S.) or kilometers (used in Canada). Tamper Resistant Odometer

Standard

Cluster Cluster Tachometer

Your odometer is tamper resistant. It will show silver lines between the numbers if someone tries to turn it back. You may wonder what happens if your vehicle needs a new odometer installed. If the new one can be set to the mileage total of the old odometer, then it must be. But if it can’t, then it’s set at zero, and a label must be put on the driver’s door to show the old mileage reading when the new odometer was installed.

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Trip Odometer

Standard Cluster

The trip odometer can tell you how far your vehicle has been driven since you last set the trip odometer to zero. Make sure the button is completely depressed. TO set the trip odometer to zero, completely push the button near the readout. Tachometer

The tachometer displays the engine speed in revolutions per minute (rpmj. Each tachometer has a different limit depending on the powertrain in your vehicle. The tachometer has three areas: normal operating range, red warning range, and red danger range.

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Normal operating range shows your engine speed during normal driving conditions. For example, when the needle points to 2, it means the engine is running at 2,000 revolutions per minute (rpm). The tachometer needle will vary all the time that the engine is running. The red warning range tells you that your engine speed is reaching its upper limits. Don’t drive very long with the tachometer in the red warning range. If you have a manual transmission, shift to a higher gear as soon as possible. If you have an automatic transmission, lift your foot off of the accelerator pedal. If you drive for very long with the tachometer in the red danger range, engine damage will result.

I NOTICE:

Do not operate the engine with the tachometer in the red range, or engine damage will occur.

The red danger range tells you that your engine speed is at its upper limits. You should immediately shift to a higher gear, or lift your foot off of the accelerator pedal. If you drive for very long with the tachometer in the red danger range, engine damage will result. Warning Lights and Indicators This part describes the warning lights and gages that may be on your vehicle. The pictures will help you locate them. Warning lights and gages can signal that something is wrong before it becomes serious enough to cause an expensive repair or replacement. Paying attention to your warning lights and gages could also save you or others from injury. Warning lights come on when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. As you will see in the details on the next few pages, some warning lights come on briefly when you start the engine just to let you know they’re working. If you are familiar with this section, you should not be alarmed when this happens. Gages can indicate when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. Often gages and warning lights work together to let you know when there’s a problem with your vehicle. When one of the warning lights comes on and stays on when you are driving, or when one of the gages shows there may be a problem, check the section that tells you what to do about it. Please follow this manual’s advice. Waiting to do repairs can be costly - and even dangerous. So please get to know your warning lights and gages. They’re a big help.

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Safety Belt Reminder Light

When the key is turned to RUN or START, a tone will come on for about eight seconds to remind people to fasten their safety belts, unless the driver’s safety belt is already buckled. The safety belt light will also come on and stay on for about 20 seconds, then it will flash for about 55 seconds. If the driver’s belt is already buckled, neither the tone nor the light will come on. Air Bag Readiness Light There is an air bag readiness light on the instrument panel, which shows AIR BAG. The system checks the air bag’s electrical system for malfunctions. The light tells you if there is an electrical problem. The system check includes the air bag sensors and module, the wiring and the diagnostic module. For more information on the air bag system, see “Air Bag” in the Index.

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You will see this light flash for a few seconds when you turn your ignition to RUN or START. Then the light should go out. This means the system is ready. If the air bag readiness light doesn’t come on when you start your vehicle, or stays on, or comes on when you are driving, your air bag system may not work properly. Have your vehicle serviced right away.

Brake System Warning Light -1 BRAKE

Your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system is divided into two parts. If one part isn’t working, the other part can still work and stop you. For good braking, though, you need both parts working well. Your vehicle also has rear-wheel or four-wheel anti-lock brakes. See “Anti-Lock Brakes” in the Index. If the warning light comes on, there could be a brake problem with either your regular or rear-wheel anti-lock brakes, or both. Have your brake system inspected right away. This light should come on briefly as you start the vehicle. If it doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there’s a problem. If the light comes on while you are driving, pull off the road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor. It may take longer to stop. If the light is still on, have the vehicle towed for service. (See “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.)

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The brake system warning light will also come on when you set your parking brake, and it will stay on if your parking brake doesn’t release fully. If it stays on after your parking brake is fully released, it means you have a brake problem. Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light (Option)

If your vehicle has four-wheel anti-lock brakes, it will have this yellow light. With the anti-lock brake system, this light will come on when you start your engine and may stay on for several seconds. That’s normal. If the light doesn’t come on, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem. If the light stays on, or comes on when you’re driving, your vehicle needs service. If the regular brake system warning light isn’t on, you still have brakes, but you don’t have anti-lock brakes. If the regular brake system warning light is also on, you don’t have anti-lock brakes and there’s a problem with your regular brakes. See “Brake System Warning Light” earlier in this part.

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Indicator Lights Indicator lights go on when you use your turn signals, change from low beam headlights to high beams, or when you use your hazard flashers. The next few pages will also tell you about the indicator lights on your vehicle and help you locate them. Malfunction Indicator Lamp (SERVICE ENGINE SOON Light)

SERVICE ENGINE SOON

The amber Malfunction Indicator Lamp (SERVICE ENGINE SOON Light) is located at the top of your instrument panel.

A computer monitors operation of your fuel, ignition and emission control systems. This light should come on when the ignition is on, but the engine is not running, as a check to show you it is working. If it does not come on at all, have it fixed right away. If it stays on, or it comes on while you are driving, the computer is indicating that you have a problem. You should take your vehicle in for service soon.

NOTICE: on, after awhile If you keep driving your vehicle with this light the emission controls won’t work as well, your fuel economy won’t be as good and your engine may not run as smoothly. This could lead to costly repairs not covered by your warranty.

If Your Vehicle is Equipped with OBD I1 Certain vehicles with 4.3 liter engines are equipped with a new emission diagnostic system. You can tell whether your vehicle has this system by reading your tune-up label located under the hood. If the label says “OBD 11” on it, the following instructions apply.

is called OBD I1

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (SERVICE ENGINE SOON Light) Your vehicle is equipped with an onboard computer which monitors operation of the emission control system. This system (On-Board Diagnostics-Second Generation) and is intended to assure that emissions are at acceptable levels for the life of the vehicle, helping to produce a cleaner environment. The “SERVICE ENGINE SOON’ light comes on to indicate when service is required. Malfunctions often will be indicated by the system before any problem is apparent, which may prevent more serious damage to your vehicle. This system is also designed to assist your service technician in correctly diagnosing any malfunction. The “SERVICE ENGINE SOON, light should come on, as a check to show you it is working, when the ignition is on and the engine is not running. This light will also come during a malfunction in one of two ways:

Light on steady - indicates a system malfunction has been detected. Drive the vehicle to the dealer for service at your first opportunity. Light flashing - indicates a misfire has been detected which may damage the emission control system. The damage may be reduced by lowering the vehicle speed, reducing the amount of cargo being hauled or trailered, avoiding hard acceleration, or by avoiding steep uphill grades. If these actions are effective, the light will stop flashing and remain on steady. Drive the vehicle to a dealer for service. If the light continues to flash, stop the vehicle. Wait for a steady light to come on, then drive the vehicle to a dealer for service.

These following conditions also may cause the “SERVICE ENGINE SOON” light to come on: Low FueVOut of Fuel - As the vehicle starts to run out of fuel the “SERVICE ENGINE SOON” light may come on as a result of an engine misfire. Filling your gasoline tank should correct this condition. Make sure to install the gas cap fully. It will require a few driving trips to turn the light off. Poor Quality Fuel - Be sure to fuel your vehicle with quality fuel. Your engine may not run efficiently on poor fuel. Poor fuel may cause stalling, hesitation or misfire. These conditions may go away when the engine is warned-up. However, poor quality fuel may cause the “SERVICE ENGINE SOON, light to come on. Have a dealer check the vehicle. If no problems are found, you may want to change to another brand of fuel. Driving Through Standing Water - Driving your vehicle through puddles of deep standing water may result in a temporary misfire condition. This condition will usually correct itself shortly after the electrical system dries out. It will require a few driving trips to turn the light off.

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Charging System lndicator Light

The red charging system indicator light is above your oil temperature gage on your instrument cluster and will come on briefly when you turn on the ignition, but the engine is not running, as a check to show you it is working.

It should go out once the engine is running. If it stays on, or comes on while you are driving, you may have a problem with the charging system. It could indicate that you have problems with a generator drive belt, or another electrical problem. Have it checked right away. Driving while this light is on could drain your battery. If you must drive a short distance with the light on, be certain to turn off all your accessories, such as the radio and air conditioner.

CHECK GAGES lndicator Light

CHECK GAGES

This amber CHECK GAGES indicator light is above the fuel gage on the instrument cluster and will come on briefly when you are starting the engine.

If the light comes on and stays on while you are driving, check your coolant temperature and engine oil pressure gages to see if they are in the warning zones.

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Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Indicator Light This green DRL indicator light is above the fuel gage on the instrument cluster.

The DRL indicator light is on whenever the ignition is on and the headlight switch and parking brake are off. For more details about DRL, see “Daytime Running Lamps” in this section. SHIFT Indicator Light

This amber SHIFT indicator light is at the top of the instrument cluster of vehicles with manual transmissions. Shifting when the indicator light is on will help you get the best fuel economy. See “SHIFT Light” in this section.

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Headlamp High-Beam Indicator Light

This blue high-beam indicator light is above the engine oil temperature gage on the instrument cluster and is on whenever you use your high beam headlamps. See “Headlamp High-Low Beam Changer” in this section.

Turn Signal and Lane Change Indicator Light

This light with the green arrows is on both sides of the speedometer on the instrument cluster. The turn signal indicator will come on whenever you signal a turn or lane change. See “Turn and Lane Change Signal” in this section.

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Gages

Engine Coolant Temperature Gage

210

This gage shows the engine coolant temperature. If the gage pointer moves into the red area, your engine is too hot!

It means that your engine coolant has overheated. If you have been operating your vehicle under normal driving conditions, you should pull off the road, stop your vehicle and turn off the engine as soon as possible. Hot Coolant Can Burn you Badly! In Problems On The Road, this manual explains what to do. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

Oil Pressure Gage

The oil pressure gage shows the engine oil pressure in psi (pounds per square inch) when the engine is running. Canadian vehicles indicate pressure in kPa (kilopascals).

Oil pressure may vary with engine speed, outside temperature and oil viscosity, but readings above the low pressure zone indicate the normal operating range. A reading in the low pressure zone may be caused by a aangerously low oil level or other problems causing low oil pressure.

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A CAUTION:

Don’t keep driving if the oil pressure is low. If you do, your engine can become so hot that it catches fire. You or others could be burned. Check your oil as soon as possible and have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE: Damage to your engine from neglected oil problems can be costly and is not covered by your warranty.

Fuel Gage

The fuel gage tells you about how much fuel you have remaining when the ignition is on. When the gage first indicates empty, you still have a little fuel left, but you should get more fuel soon.

Here are four things that some owners ask about. None of these show a problem with your fuel gage:

At the gas station, the gas pump shuts off before the gage reads full. 0 It takes a little more or less fuel to fill up than the gage indicated. For

example, the gage may have indicated the tank was half full, but it actually took a little more or less than half the tank’s capacity to fill the tank.

0 The gage moves a little when you turn a corner or speed up.

The gage doesn’t go back to empty when you turn off the ignition.

For your fuel tank capacity, see the Index under “Fluid Capacities.”

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Voltmeter Gage

14

When your engine is not running, but the ignition is on (in the RUN position), this gage shows your battery’s state of charge in DC volts.

When the engine is running, the gage shows the condition of the charging system. Readings between the low and high warning zones indicate the normal operating range. Readings in the low warning zone may occur when a large number of electrical accessories are operating in the vehicle and the engine is left at an idle for an extended period. This condition is normal since the charging system is not able to provide full power at engine idle. As engine speeds are increased, this condition should correct itself as higher engine speeds allow the charging system to create maximum power. You can only drive for a short time with the reading in either warning zone. If you must drive, turn off all unnecessary accessories. Readings in either warning zone indicate a possible problem in the electrical system. Have the vehicle serviced as soon as possible. Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) Feed Wire Your vehicle includes a Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) located above the rear window. If equipment such as a cap or camper is installed, a wire labeled “Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL)” feed is provided along the left rear frame. This wire should be used to install a CHMSL in the cap or camper.

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Trailer Wiring Harness Your vehicle may have either a 5-wire or 7-wire harness. The 5-wire harness is stored under your vehicle, along the left rear frame crossmember. The harness has no connector, and you should have a qualified service person wire your harness for you. Be sure you leave it loose enough so the wiring doesn’t bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged. The 7-wire is stored under your vehicle along the rear frame crossmember. This harness has a 30 Amp. in-line fused battery feed wire and no connector, and should be wired by a qualified service person. Attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or strap it to your vehicle’s frame rail. Be sure you leave it loose enough so the wiring doesn’t bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged. The fuse for trailer wiring is in-line and located in left front side panel electrical block.

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Comfort Controls & Audio Systems

Section

In this section you'll find out how to operate the comfort control systems and audio systems offered with your vehicle. Be sure to read about the particular system supplied with your vehicle. Comfort Controls Heater Controls

If your vehicle does not have air conditioning, your heater controls will look like this.

The switch with the fan symbol changes the fan speed. To increase the fan speed, push the switch upward toward HI. To decrease the fan speed, push the switch downward toward LO. The upper knob changes the air temperature. Turn the knob clockwise for warmer air. Turn the knob counterclockwise for cooler air.

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The lower knob changes the heater function and determines which outlets the air will flow through (instrument panel, defroster, heater, etc.). OFF - This setting turns off all heating functions. Some outside air will still come out of the heater outlet whenever the vehicle is moving forward. VENT - Airflow is through the instrument panel vents. Set the upper knob to the temperature desired. This setting is useful for mild outside temperatures, when little heating or cooling is desired. BI-LEV - Outside air comes in through the heater floor vents and the instrument panel vents. This setting is useful in cool weather with bright sunlight. HEAT - Heated air comes out through the heater floor vents and windshield defroster vents. This setting is useful for cold weather. BLEND - Airflow is divided equally between the heater floor vent and the windshield defroster vents. This setting is useful in cool weather when you have fog or ice on the windshield or side windows. DEF - This setting directs most air through the windshield defroster vents and some through the heater vents. This setting is useful when you have fog or ice on the windshield. Heater/Air Conditioning Controls

If your vehicle has air conditioning, your heatedair conditioning controls will look like this.

Before using your vehicle's air conditioning, open the windows to clear the vehicle of hot air. The switch with the fan symbol changes the fan speed. To increase the fan speed, push the switch upward toward HI. To decrease the fan speed, push the switch downward toward LO. The upper knob changes the air temperature. Turn the knob clockwise for warmer air. Turn the knob counterclockwise for cooler air.

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The lower knob selects the heater or air conditioning function and determines which outlets the air will flow through (instrument panel, defroster, heater, etc.). OFF - This setting turns off all heating functions. Some outside air will still come out of the heater outlet whenever the vehicle is moving forward. MAX A/C - Air inside your vehicle is recirculated to maximize your air conditioner’s performance and your vehicle’s fuel economy. This setting cools the air the fastest and should be used to keep “unwanted odors” and/or dust from entering the vehicle. NORM A/C - This setting cools outside air and directs it through the instrument panel vents. This setting is useful for normal cooling on hot days. BI-LEV A/C - Air is delivered through the heater floor vents as well as the instrument panel vents. This setting is useful in cool weather with bright sunlight. VENT - Airflow is through the instrument panel vents. Set the upper knob to the temperature desired. This setting is useful for mild outside temperatures, when little heating or cooling is desired. The air conditioner does not run. HEAT - Heated air comes out through the heater floor vents and windshield defroster vents. This setting is useful for cold weather. BLEND - Airflow is divided equally between the heater floor vent and the windshield defroster vents. This setting is useful in cool weather when you have fog or ice on the windshield or side windows. DEF - This setting directs most air through the windshield defroster vents and some through the heater vents. This setting is useful when you have fog or ice on the windshield.

Engine Coolant Heater (Option) If you use the optional engine coolant heater before starting your engine, your heating system will produce warmer air faster, to heat the passenger compartment in cold weather. See “Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index.

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Ventilation System

Your vehicle's ventilation system supplies outside air to the inside of your vehicle when it is moving. With the side windows closed, air will flow into the front air inlet grilles, through the vehicle, and out the rear air exhaust valve. Outside air will also enter the vehicle when the heater or the air conditioning fan is running. Ventilation Tips

Keep the hood and front air inlet free of ice, snow, or any other obstruction (such as leaves). The heater and defroster will work far better, reducingthe chance of fogging the inside of your windows. When you enter a vehicle in cold weather, turn the blower fan to HI for a few moments before driving off. This helps clear the intake ducts of snow and moisture, and reduces the chance of fogging the inside of your windows. Keep the air path under the front seats clear of objects. This helps air to circulate throughout your vehicle.

You will find air vents in the center and on the sides of your instrument panel.

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You can move the vents to direct the flow of air, or close the vents altogether. When you close a vent, it will increase the flow of air coming out of any vents that are open. Audio Systems Your Delco@ audio system has been designed to operate easily and give years of listening pleasure. But you will get the most enjoyment out of it if you acquaint yourself with it first. Find out what your Delco@system can do and how to operate all its controls, to be sure you’re getting the most out of the advanced engineering that went into it. Setting the Clock (Audio Systems without a Compact Disc) To set the clock:

1. Press the SET button. 2. Within 5 seconds, push and hold SEEK until the correct minute appears

on the display.

3. Press and hold SCAN until the correct hour appears on the display. To display the clock with the ignition off, push the upper knob. The time will be displayed for a few seconds.

Setting the Clock (Audio Systems with a Compact Disc) To set the clock:

1. Press the SET button. The radio may be on or off. 2. Within 5 seconds, press and hold either SEEK

correct minute appears on the display.

or 4 SEEK until the

3. Press and hold SCAN until the correct hour appears on the display.

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How to Operate Your ETW AM-FM Stereo Audio System

.. . .. :.*:,.:

This part tells you how your ETR@AM-FM stereo audio system works. Upper Knob (PWR-VOL-RECALL) - The upper knob has these four functions:

Turn it to turn the system on and off. Turn it to control the volume.

0 Press it to display the time when the ignition is off.

Press it to change between the clock and the radio station frequency displayed when the radio is on.

BAL (Balance) - The control ring behind the upper knob adjusts the lefvright speaker balance. Lower Knob (TUNE-AM-FM) - The lower knob has two functions:

0 Turn it to tune in radio stations. 0 Press it to change between the AM and FM bands.

FADE - The control ring behind the lower knob adjusts the frondrear speaker balance. SEEK - Press the SEEK button to cause the receiver to SEEK the next higher station and stop. SCAN - Press the SCAN button to hear each station for a few seconds. Push it again when you reach the station you want to listen to and the radio will stop scanning. “SCAN” appears in the display.

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Pushbuttons - The four pushbuttons let you return to favorite stations. To set the pushbuttons for up to fourteen favorite stations (7 AM and 7 FM):

1. Tune in the desired station. 2. Press the SET button. “SET” appears in the display. 3. Within 5 seconds, press one of the four pushbuttons to store the station.

Whenever you press that button, the preset station will return.

Repeat these steps for each pushbutton. NOTE: In addition to the four stations set as above, up to three additional stations may be preset on each band by pressing two adjoining buttons at the same time. Then do the following:

I . Tune in the desired station. 2. Press the SET button. “SET” appears in the display momentarily. 3. Within 5 seconds, press any two adjoining pushbuttons at the same time. (The station will return when the same two buttons are pressed again.)

TREBLE - Slide the TREBLE lever up to increase the treble response. If a station is weak or noisy, slide the TREBLE lever down to reduce the noise. BASS - Slide the BASS lever up to increase the bass response. Adjust the BASS lever to give a pleasing sound to your ear. How to Operate Your ET/+@ AM-FM Stereo Audio Cassette System

This part tells you how your ETR@ AM-FM stereo audio cassette system works.

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Upper Knob (PWR-VOL-PROG-RCL) - The upper knob has these five functions:

0 Turn it to turn the system on and off. 0 Turn it to control the volume.

Press it to display the time when the ignition is off. Press it to change between the clock and the radio station frequency displayed when the radio is on.

0 Press it to change sides of a tape when a cassette is playing. BAL (Balance) - The control ring behind the upper knob adjusts the lefdright speaker balance. Lower Knob (TUNE-AM-FM) - The lower knob has two functions:

Turn it to tune in radio stations. Press it to change between the AM and FM bands.

FADE - The control ring behind the lower knob adjusts the frondrear speaker balance. SEEK - Press the SEEK button to cause the receiver to SEEK the next higher station and stop. SCAN - Press the SCAN button to hear each station for a few seconds. Push it again when you reach the station you want to listen to and the radio will stop scanning. “SCAN’ appears in the display. Pushbuttons - The four pushbuttons let you return to favorite stations. To set the pushbuttons for up to fourteen favorite stations (7 AM and 7 FM): 1. Tune in the desired station. 2. Press the SET button. “SET” appears in the display momentarily. 3. Within 5 seconds, press one of the four pushbuttons to store the station.

Whenever you press that button, the preset station will return.

NOTE: In addition to the four stations set as above, up to three additional stations may be preset on each band by pressing two adjoining pushbuttons at the same time. Then do the following: 1. Tune in the desired station. 2. Push the SET button. “SET” appears in the display momentarily. 3. Within 5 seconds, press any two adjoining pushbuttons at the same time. (The station will return when the same two buttons are pressed again.)

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@ - This unit is equipped with an automatic Dynamic Noise

Repeat these steps for each pair of buttons. TREBLE - Slide the TREBLE lever up to increase the treble response. If the station is weak or noisy, slide the TREBLE lever down to reduce the noise. BASS - Slide the BASS lever up to increase the bass response. Adjust the BASS lever to give a pleasing sound to your ear. AUTO DNR Reduction system. DNR@reduces background hiss on AM and FM radio broadcasts, as well as on cassette tapes. DNR@is a registered trademark of National Semiconductor Corporation. To PIay A Cassette Your tape player is built to work best with tapes that are 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer than that are so thin they may not work well in this player. Once the tape is playing, use the upper and lower knobs for volume, balance and fade just as you do for the radio. A lighted arrow shows which direction the tape is being played. FWD - To rapidly advance the tape, press 4 or b in the direction that the amber arrow points and the tape will rapidly go forward until you press the STOP-EJECT button lightly. REV - To rapidly reverse the tape, press 4 or b in the opposite direction that the amber arrow points and the tape will rapidly reverse until you press the STOP-EJECT button lightly. PROGRAM - To go from one side of the tape to the other, press the PWR-VOL-PROG-RCL knob. STOP-EJECT - To remove the tape or stop the tape and switch to radio, press the STOP-EJECT button. If “Cln” (Clean) appears on the display when you insert your cassette tape, your cassette player needs to be cleaned. It will still play cassette tapes but it should be cleaned to prevent damage to your cassette tapes and the cassette tape player. See “Care of Your Cassette Tape Player” later in this section. After you have cleaned the cassette tape player, press and hold EJECT for 5 seconds to reset the the “Cln” indicator. The radio will display “- - -” to show the clean feature has been reset.

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How to Operate Your ETW AM-FM Stereo Audio Cassette System with Equalizer

This part tells you how your ETR@ AM-FM stereo audio cassette system with equalizer works: Upper Knob (PWR-VOL-PROG-RCL) - The upper knob has these five functions:

0 Turn it to turn the system on and off.

Turn it to control the volume. Press it to display the time when the ignition is off.

0 Press it to change between the clock and the radio station frequency

displayed when the radio is on.

0 Press it to change sides of a tape when a cassette is playing.

BAL (Balance) - The control ring behind the upper knob adjusts the lefuright speaker balance. Lower Knob (TUNE-AM-FM) - The lower knob has two functions:

0 Turn it to tune in radio stations. 0 Press it to change between the AM and FM bands.

FADE - The control ring behind the lower knob adjusts the fronthear speaker balance. SEEK - Press the SEEK button to cause the receiver to SEEK the next higher station and stop. SCAN - Press the SCAN button to hear each station for a few seconds. Push it again when you reach the station you want to listen to and the radio will stop scanning. “SCAN” appears in the display.

Pushbuttons - The four pushbuttons let you return to favorite stations. To set the pushbuttons for up to fourteen favorite stations (7 AM and 7 FM):

1. Tune in the desired station. 2. Push the SET button. “SET” appears in the display for about 5 seconds. 3. Within the 5 seconds, push one of the four pushbuttons. Whenever you

press that button, the preset station will return.

NOTE: In addition to the four stations set as above, up to three additional stations may be preset on each band by pressing two adjoining pushbuttons at the same time. Then do the following:

I . Tune in the desired station. 2. Press the SET button. 3. Within 5 seconds, press any two adjoining pushbuttons at the same time. (The station will return when the same two buttons are pressed again.)

Adjust the Tone - Use the levers in the upper middle left corner to set the bass, midrange, and treble until you get the sound you want. The 60 and 250 levers adjust the bass, 1 K is midrange, and 3.5K and 1OK control the treble. We suggest you start with the center lever (1 K) in the midpoint position, then move the others up until you get the amount of bass and treble you like. Am-St Button - The Am-St button is just below the SEARCH button. Push this when you tune to an AM station that broadcasts in stereo. Your STEREO light will come on when you’re receiving AM stereo. If you push Am-St and there is no more noise, it means the station is weak. You’ll hear the station better if you don’t use Am-St. Just push the Am-St button again to delete stereo. AUTO DNR@ - This unit is equipped with an automatic Dynamic Noise Reduction system. DNR@reduces background hiss on AM and FM radio broadcasts, as well as on cassette tapes. DNR@is a registered trademark of National Semiconductor Corporation. To Flay A Cassette Your tape player is built to work best with tapes that are 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer than that are so thin they may not work well in this player. Once the tape is playing, use the upper and lower knobs for volume, balance and fade just as you do for the radio. A lighted arrow shows which direction the tape is being played, being used. If you are using chrome or metal tapes, push the Cr02 button in.

- The Cr02 button lets you set the system for the type of cassette

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FWD - To rapidly advance the tape, press 4 or in the direction that the amber arrow points and the tape will rapidly go forward until you press the STOP-EJECT button lightly. REV - To rapidly reverse the tape, press 4 or b in the opposite direction that the amber arrow points and the tape will rapidly reverse until you press the STOP-EJECT button lightly. SEARCH - Press the SEARCH button to the recessed position. Press b to go to the beginning of the next selection. Press 4 and the tape will reverse to the beginning of the current selection. PROGRAM - To go from one side of the tape to the other, press the PWR-VOL-PROG-RCL knob. STOP-EJECT - To remove the tape or stop the tape and switch to radio, press the STOP-EJECT button. If “Cln” (Clean) appears on the display when you insert your cassette tape, your cassette player needs to be cleaned. It will still play cassette tapes but it should be cleaned to prevent damage to your cassette tapes and the cassette tape player. See “Care of Your Cassette Tape Player” later in this section. After you have cleaned the cassette tape player, press and hold EJECT for 5 seconds to reset the the “Cln” indicator. The radio will display “- - -’, to show the clean feature has been reset. Your Delco system may be able to receive C-QUAM@ stereo broadcasts. Many AM stations around the country use C-QUAM@ to produce stereo, though some do not. C-QUAM@ is a re istered trademark of Motorola Inc. If your Delco system can get C-QUAM signals, your STEREO light will come on when you are receiving stereo.

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How to Operate Your ETR@ AM-FM Stereo Audio Compact Disc (CD) System

This part tells you how your ETR@ AM-FM stereo system works: Upper Knob (PWR-VOL) - The upper knob has two functions: Turn it to turn the system on and off when the ignition is on. Turn it to control the volume. Volume will be displayed briefly unless LefdRight speaker control, Rear/Front speaker control, BASS or TREB are adjusted.

Left/Right Speaker Control - The control ring behind the upper knob allows you to balance the sound between the left and right speakers. Balance will be displayed briefly when using this control. Lower Knob (TUNE-BAND) - The lower knob has two functions:

Turn it to tune in radio stations. Press it to change between the AM and FM bands.

RearFront Speaker Control - The control ring behind the lower knob fades the sound between your rear and front speakers. Fade levels will be briefly displayed. SEEK - Press the SEEK higher station. Press the 4 SEEK button to cause the receiver to seek the next lower station. SCAN - Press the SCAN button to hear each station for a few seconds. Push it again when you reach the station you want to listen to and the radio will stop scanning. “SC” appears in the display.

button to cause the receiver to seek the next

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Pushbuttons - The five pushbuttons let you return to favorite stations. They are also used when you play a disc. (See “To Play A Compact Disc”.) To set the pushbuttons for up to ten favorite stations (5 AM and 5 FM): 1. Tune in the desired station. 2. Push the SET button. “SET” is displayed briefly. 3. Within 5 seconds, push one of the five pushbuttons to store the station. Whenever you press that button, the preset station will return. Repeat the steps for each of the 5 AM and 5 FM stations.

MUTE - Press the MUTE button and all sound from the radio or CD player stops. By pressing the button again sound will begin again. RCL - Press the RCL button to change between the clock and the radio station frequency displayed when the radio is on. RCL may be pressed when the ignition is off to see the time.

BASS - Press the BASS A to increase the bass tones and v BASS to TREBLE - Press the TREB A to increase the treble tones and v TREB to

decrease bass tones. Press the center of the control for a preset BASS position. The bass level will be displayed briefly when using this control.

decrease the treble tones. Press the center of the control for a preset TREB position. The treble level will be displayed briefly when using this control. To Play A Compact Disc (CD)

NOTICE: DO NOT use mini-discs that are called singles. They won’t eject. USE FULL-SIZE COMPACT DISCS. If the disc player is very hot, or if you’re driving on a very rough road, a disc may come out or just not play. If you see the word HOT on the display, the disc player is too hot to play the disc. Press RCL to make the word HOT go off the display. When things get back to normal, the disc should play again. Press PWR to turn the system on.

Insert a disc partway into the slot, label side up. The player will pull it in. Wait a few seconds and the disc should play. If the disc comes back out, check to see if any of the following are true:

0 The disc is upside down. 0 It is dirty, scratched, or wet. 0 Too much moisture is in the air. (If there is, wait about one hour and try

again.)

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RCL - Press RCL to see what track is playing. Press it again within 5 seconds to see how long it has been playing. The track number also appears when you change the volume or when a new track starts to play. COMP - Press the COMP button to make soft and loud passages more nearly equal in volume. “COMP’ will appear in the display while using this control. RDM - The RDM button means random and when it is pressed, it causes the CD mechanism to play the tracks in a random order rather than in the sequential 1,2, 3 order. “RDM” will appear in the display while using this control. To return to normal sequence, press RDM again. REV - Press and hold the REV button to quickly return to a favorite passage. Release it to display the passage. The counter reading will be displayed while using this control. FWD - Press and hold the FWD button to advance quickly within a track. Release it to resume playing. Watch the display to stop at a specific passage. SCAN - Press SCAN to sample each track for approximately 10 seconds. Scanning will continue until the RDM, SCAN or any other motion button is pressed again. PREV - Hold the PREV (4 SEEK) button, or press it more than once, and the disc will return to previous tracks. NEXT - Press NEXT (SEEK ,) waiting until the present track is finished. If you hold this button or press it more than once, the disc will advance further. ST-PL - Press ST-PL (Stop-Play) to make the disc stop and the radio play. Press ST-PL again to restart the disc at the point where it stopped. Press PWR or turn the ignition key off to stop the disc player. The disc stays in the player and will resume playing at the point where it stopped. Press EJCT to eject the disc and make the radio play. The disc will start at track I when you reinsert it.

to hear the next track now instead of

Anti-Theft Feature Delco LOC II@ is an Anti-Theft feature for the compact disc player. It can be used or ignored. If ignored, the system plays normally. If it is used, your player won’t be usable if it is ever stolen, because it won’t turn on. The instructions below tell you how to enter a secret code into the system. If your car loses battery power for any reason, you must unlock the system with the secret code before the radio will turn on.

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To Lock The System: 1. Write down any 6 digit number and keep it in a safe place. 2. Turn the ignition to the ACC (Accessory) or RUN position. 3. Press the PWR knob to turn the radio off. 4. Press the 1 and 4 buttons together. Hold them down until “- - -” shows

on the display. You are now ready to enter your secret code. Don’t wait more than 15 seconds between steps.

5. Press SET and “000” will appear on the display. or 4 button to make the first number appear. 6. Press the SEEK 7. Press SCAN to make the next two numbers agree with your code. 8. Press BAND and “000” will appear again. Now you are ready to enter

the last three digits of your code.

9. Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the last three digits of your code. 10. Press BAND and “rEP’ will appear for 5 seconds and then “OOO” will

appear.

11. Repeat steps 6 through 10. This time “SEC” will appear - indicating

that the radio is secure.

To Unlock The System After A Power Loss When battery power is reapplied to a secured radio, the radio won’t turn on and “LOC” will appear on the display. Enter your secret code as follows. Pause no more than 15 seconds between steps. 1. Turn the ignition on. (Radio off.) 2. Press the SET button. The display will show “000”. 3. Enter the six digits of the code following steps 6-9 above. The display

will show the numbers as entered.

4. Press the BAND knob and the time appears - indicating that the

disabling sequence was successful. If the display indicates “SEC”, the numbers did not match and the unit is still secured.

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Disabling The Theft System 1.

2. 3.

4. 5.

6.

Press presets 1 and 4 for 5 seconds with ignition on and radio off. The display will show “SEC”, indicating the unit is in the secure mode. Press the SET button. The display will show “000”. Enter the first three digits of the code following steps 6 and 7 of the preceding paragraphs (To Lock the System). The display will show the numbers as entered. Press the BAND knob. The radio will display “OOO”. Enter the second three digits of the code. The display will show the numbers as entered. Press the BAND knob. If the display shows “- - - ”, the disabling sequence was successful. The numbers matched the user-selected code or the factory back-up code, and the unit is in the UNSECURED mode. If the display shows “SEC”, the disabling sequence was unsuccessful and the numbers did not match either of the codes and the unit will remain in the SECURED mode.

Understanding Radio Reception FM stereo will give you the best sound. But FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). And, tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go. The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it. AM Stereo means the Delco@ system can receive C-QUAM@stereo broadcasts. Many AM stations around the count use C-QUAM@ to produce stereo, though some do not. (C-QUAM of Motorola, Inc.) If your Delco@ system can get C-QUAM@, your “STEREO” light will come on when you’re receiving it. Be aware that hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud and harmful to your hearing. Take precautions by adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe sound level before your hearing adapts to it. To help avoid hearing loss or damage:

is a registered trademark

1. Adjust the volume control to the lowest setting. 2. Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably and clearly.

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NOTICE: Before you add any sound equipment to your vehicle - like a tape player, CB radio, mobile telephone or two-way radio - be sure you can add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to do it properly. Added sound equipment may interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine, Delco@ radio or other systems, and even damage them. And, your vehicle’s systems may interfere with the operation of sound equipment that has been added improperly. So, before adding sound equipment, check with your dealer and be sure to check Federal rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.

Care of Your Cassette Player and Tape A tape player that is not cleaned regularly is subject to reduced sound quality, ruining the cassette, or damaging the mechanism. Tape cassettes that are not properly stored in their plastic cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight, and extreme heat, may not operate properly and could cause premature failure of the tape player. Your tape player should be cleaned with every 50 hours of use to provide optimum performance. Your radio may display “Cln” (Clean) to indicate that you have used your tape player for 50 hours without re-setting the tape clean timer. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, regardless of when the tape player was last cleaned, try playing a different cassette to see if the tape or tape player is at fault. If the second cassette results in no improvement in sound quality, try cleaning the tape player. Proper tape player cleaning should be done with a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette. This is a wet-type cleaning system that uses a cleaning cassette with pads which scrub the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn. To properly clean your tape player, follow instructions with the cleaning cassette. If you use this type of cleaner, the radio may display an error and eject the cartridge. This is normal and is the result of an added feature in the tape player that detects broken tapes. If an error occurs, you will need to insert the cleaning cassette at least 3 times to thoroughly clean the tape player. You may prefer to use a non-scrubbing action, wet-type cleaner. This type of cleaner uses a fabric belt to clean the tape head. This type of cleaner cassette will not cause an error, but it may not clean the tape player as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner.

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A scrubbing action cleaner cassette is available through your retailer (SPO 12344600). Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always verify that the cassette tape is in good condition and the tape player is clean before obtaining service on your tape player.

NOTICE: Cassette tape adapter kits for portable CD players will not work to in your cassette player. These adapters will cause the radio display an error and the adapter cassette will be ejected.

Care of Compact Discs Handle discs' carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge.

Antenna Care The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should replace it. Check every once in a while to be sure the mast is still tightened to the fender.

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Notes

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Your Driving and the Road

Section

Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions. We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.

Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. (See “Safety Belts” in the Index.) Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads, or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.”

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Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle:

Judgment

0 Muscular Coordination

Vision Attentiveness

Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, some 18,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured. Many adults - by some estimates, nearly half the adult population - choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to solve this highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things:

0 How much alcohol consumed

The drinker’s body weight The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking The length of time it’s taken the drinker to consume the alcohol

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According to the American Medical Association, a 180-pound (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.

It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks. The law in many U.S. states sets the legal limit at a BAC of 0.10 percent. In a growing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, the limit is 0.08 percent. In some other countries it’s even lower. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the U.S. is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them. But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above, A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is twelve times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is twenty-five times greater!

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The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking - driver or passenger - is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle.

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Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; and the condition of your brakes. Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts - heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking - rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) Your vehicle has an advanced electronic braking system that can help you keep it under control. If your vehicle has an anti-lock brake system warning light on the instrument panel, it has four-wheel anti-lock brakes. Otherwise, it has rear-wheel anti-lock brakes. When you start a vehicle that has four-wheel anti-lock brakes and begin to drive away, you may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise. This is the ABS system testing itself.

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Here's how anti-lock works. Let's say the road is wet. You're driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes. Here's what happens with ABS. A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. With four-wheel anti-lock: If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at the rear wheels. The four-wheel anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. With rear-wheel anti-lock: If one of the rear wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will work the brakes at the rear wheels. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions.

As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: Anti-lock doesn't change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won't have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes.

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To Use Four-wheel Anii-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some noise, but this is normal. On vehicles with four-wheel drive, your anti-lock brakes work at all times - whether you are in two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive.

To Use Rear- Wheel Anii-Lock Use rear-wheel anti-lock like regular brakes. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some noise outside your vehicle, but this is normal. Let anti-lock work for you, but remember: Your front wheels can still stop rolling. If that happens, release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again so that you can steer.

a situation that requires hard braking.

Braking in Emergencies At some time, nearly every driver gets into The four-wheel anti-lock system lets you steer and brake at the same time. If you have the rear-wheel anti-lock braking system, your front wheels can stop rolling when you brake very hard. Once they do, the vehicle can’t respond to your steering. Momentum will carry it in whatever direction it was headed when the front wheels stopped rolling. That could be off the road, into the very thing you were trying to avoid, or into traffic. So, unless you have four-wheel anti-lock, use a “squeeze” braking technique. This will give you maximum braking while maintaining steering control. You do this by pushing on the brake pedal with steadily increasing pressure. When you do, it will help maintain steering control. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Steering Tips Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road

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surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you ,turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control systems - steering and braking - have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Unless you have four-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard braking can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. The same thing can happen if you’re steering through a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems - steering and acceleration - can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking - if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action - steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes - but, unless you have four-wheel anti-lock, not enough to lock your front wheels. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

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An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object.

The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly. Off-Road Recovery You may find sometime that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving. If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to 114 turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

1. Edge of Road

Surface

2. Slow Down 3. Left Approx. Quarter Turn

4. Recover

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Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents - the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing:

“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic. Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot. Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.)

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0 Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads.

Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.

0 Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the

brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.

0 If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get

ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.

Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues - such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you have any doubt.

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Remember: If you have the four-wheel anti-lock braking system, it helps avoid only the braking skid. The rear-wheel anti-lock braking system helps avoid only a rear braking skid. In a braking skid (where the front wheels are no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the brakes to get the front wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the front wheels are rolling, you will have steering control. Driving Guidelines OR-Road Driving with Your Four-wheel Drive Vehicle This off-road guide is for vehicles that have four-wheel drive. Also, see “Anti-Lock Brakes” in the Index. If your vehicle doesn’t have four-wheel drive, you shouldn’t drive off-road unless you’re on a level, solid surface. Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. “Off-roading” means you’ve left the great North American road system behind. Traffic lanes aren’t marked. Curves aren’t banked. There are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill. In short, you’ve gone right back to nature. Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that’s why it’s very important that you read this guide. You’ll find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable. Before You Go Off-Roading There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Check to make sure all underbody shields (if so equipped) are properly attached. Be sure you read all the information about your four-wheel drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you’ll be driving? If you don’t know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission.

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Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle.

The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can. Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on the off-road terrain doesn’t toss things around.

You’ll find other important information in this manual. See “Vehicle Loading,” “Luggage Carrier’’ and “Tires” in the Index. Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads. It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly. Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you’ll want to know how to use it properly.

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Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and different driving skills. Here’s what we mean. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet, and body you’ll need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce. Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds:

you approach things faster and you have less time to scan the terrain for obstacles. you have less time to react. you have more vehicle bounce when you drive over obstacles. you’ll need more distance for braking, especially since you’re on an unpaved surface.

Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider. Sugace Conditions. Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration, and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and longer braking distances.

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Sur$ace Obstacles. Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you’re not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:

Is the path ahead clear?

0 Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? 0 Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? (There’s more discussion

of these subjects later.)

0 Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction quickly?

When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you’re not prepared. When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you can’t control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what isn’t. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious - or even fatal - accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. (See “Drunken Driving” in the Index.) Driving On Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and can’t do. There are some hills that simply can’t be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

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Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it’s one of those hills that’s just too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs. Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill.

Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping? Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you won’t have to make turning maneuvers? Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)? What’s beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you don’t know. It’s the smart way to find out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps.

Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering wheel. Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain your speed. Don’t use more power than you need, because you don’t want your wheels to start spinning or sliding.

0 Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and

turns, you might want to find another route.

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Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of the hill. Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

0 Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to let opposing

traffic know you’re there. Use your headlights even during the day. They make you more visible to oncoming traffic.

Q: What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and I

can’t make it up the hill?

A: If this happens, there are some things you should do, and there are

some things you must not do. First, here’s what you should do: Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake. If your engine is still running, shift the transmission into reverse, release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in reverse. If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to restart it. With the brake pedal depressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or, shift to NEUTRAL (N) if your vehicle has a manual transmission) and restart the engine. Then, shift to reverse, release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in reverse. As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It’s best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover. Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill.

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0 Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into NEUTRAL (N) (or depressing the clutch, if you have a manual transmission) to “rev-up” the engine and regain forward momentum. This won’t work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control.

Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift into reverse, release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the hill and decide I just

can’t do it. What should I do?

A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in PARK (P) (or the

manual transmission in first gear), and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N) when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

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Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you’ll want to consider a number of things:

0 How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain vehicle control? 0 What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed dirt?

Gravel? Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders? What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

Q: Are there some things I should not do when driving down a hill? A: Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose

control and have a serious accident.

0 When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of

the hill. A hill that’s not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down.

0 Never go downhill with the transmission in NEUTRAL (N), or with

the clutch pedal depressed in a manual shift. This is called “free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade. Unless you have four-wheel anti-lock: Avoid braking lock the front wheels when going downhill. If your front wheels are locked, you can’t steer your vehicle. If your wheels lock up during downhill braking, you may feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways. To regain your direction, just ease off the brakes and steer to keep the front of the vehicle pointing straight downhill.

so hard that you

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Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill? A: It’s much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it happens going

downhill, here’s what to do. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes. Apply the parking brake. Shift to PARK (P) (or to Neutral with the manual transmission) and, while still braking, restart the engine. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight down.

0 If the engine won’t start, get out and get help. Driving Across an lncline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:

A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover. Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over. Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more. For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

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Q: What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit I do? some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

Stalling on an Incline If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you’ll be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

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Driving In Mud, Sand, Snow, Or Ice When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances. It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck. When you drive 6fi Sad, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. You may want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve traction. Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces. it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

Driving In Water Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, don’t try it - you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts. If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fwt speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

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Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it’s only inches deep, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Ron’t drive through rushing water.

After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information. Driving at Night

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired - by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

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Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively.

0 Don’t drink and drive.

Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlights behind you. Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlights can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals.

0 If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest. Night Vision No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlights, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching lights. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlights), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching lights. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean - inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlights light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlights should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness - the inability to see in dim light - and aren’t even aware of it,

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Driving in the Rain

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips

Turn on your low-beam headlights - not just your parking lights - to help make you more visible to others. Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)

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City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:

Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

0 Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll

save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”)

0 Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your ‘.‘blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit.

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The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh - such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?

0 Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen.

in less than a

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Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior.

0 Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check

your mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain. If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See “Off-Road Driving” in the Index for information about driving off-road.) 0 Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

0 Know how to go down hills. -The most important thing to know is this:

let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

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Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

0 You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special

problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. Be sure your engine coolant mix is correct. You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle.

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Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about freezing (32 O F ; O O C ) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow - drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

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Your anti-lock brakes improve your ability to make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it, Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

the surface of a

If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. You can run the engine to keep wann, but be careful.

do

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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for awhile. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

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Power Winches If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored.

I NOTICE:

Operating a power winch with an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in gear may damage the transmission. Always put the transmission in a Neutral position while operating a power winch.

Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake or block the wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling. If your vehicle is equipped with an airbag, see “Adding Equipment to Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. Recreational Vehicle Towing (Four- Wheel Drive Only) If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, you may tow it behind another vehicle providing it does not have the optional electronic shift transfer case.

I NOTICE:

Recreational vehicle towing is not recommended for vehicles with the optional electronic shift transfer case because the electronic shift has no neutral position.

Before towing, you should:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Place the automatic transmission in PARK (P) or the manual

transmission in the lowest gear (FIRST GEAR).

3. Firmly attach the vehicle being towed to the tow vehicle. Refer to the

hitch manufacturer’s instructions.

4. Place the transfer case shift lever in NEUTRAL (N).

NOTICE: Removal of either propeller shaft is unnecessary.

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5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly

attached to the tow vehicle.

6. Insert the ignition key into the ignition switch and turn it one notch

forward of the LOCK position. This places the key into the OFF position, which unlocks the steering column while preventing battery drain. Unlocking the steering column will allow for proper movement of the front wheelshires during towing.

NOTICE: You should exercise extra care whenever towing another vehicle.

Loading Your Vehicle

PAYLOAD =I-1

The Certificatioflire label is found on the driver’s door lock pillar. The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo and trailer tongue weight, if pulling a trailer.

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The CertificatiodTire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Similar appearing vehicles may have different GVWR’sLPayloads. Please note the Certificatioflire label of your truck or consult your dealer for additional details. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.

Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.

NOTICE: Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

If you put things inside your vehicle - like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else - they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

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There’s also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Two-Tiered Loading By positioning four 2” x 6” wooden planks across the width of the pickup box, you can create an upper load platform. The planks must be inserted in the pickup box depressions. The length of the planks must allow for at least 3/4“ bearing surface on each end of the plank. When using this upper load platform, be sure the load is securely tied down to prevent it from shifting. The load’s center of gravity should be positioned in a zone over the rear axle. The zone is located in the area between the front of each fenderwell and the rear of each fenderwell. The center of gravity height must not extend above the top of the pickup box flareboard. Any load that extends beyond the vehicle’s taillamp area must be properly marked according to local laws and regulations. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the rear axle. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Payload The Payload Capacity is shown on the CertificatiodTire label. This is the maximum load capacity that your vehicle can carry. Be sure to include the weight of the people inside as part of your load. If you added any accessories or equipment after your vehicle left the factory, remember to subtract the weight of these things from the payload. Your dealer can help you with this.

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Trai/ering Package If your vehicle comes with the Trailering Package, there is also a load rating which includes the weight of the vehicle and the trailer it tows. This rating is called the Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). When you weigh your trailer, be sure to include the weight of everything you put in it. And, remember to figure the weight of the people inside as part of your load. Your dealer can help you determine your GCWR.

Add-on Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment.

NOTICE: Your warranty doesn’t cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

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Truck-Camper Loading Information Open your glove box and look for this label:

GM

31

This label will tell you if your vehicle can carry a slide-in camper, how much of a load your vehicle can carry, and how to spread out your load the right way. Also, it will help you match the right slide-in camper to your vehicle. When you carry a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of your vehicle is the weight of the camper, plus

everything else added to the camper after it left the factory;