2008 Cadillac CTS Owners Manual

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manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-68. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-15. Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes your vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 5-120. Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine (VIN Code V), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine (VIN Code 7), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. For best performance or trailer towing, you could choose to use middle grade 89 octane unleaded gasoline. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. 5-5 Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information. California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by your warranty. 5-6 Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. 5-7 Filling the Tank {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. 5-8 The fuel cap is behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. The fuel door is opened by pushing in on the rear edge until the door pops out. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door. {CAUTION: Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-115. 5-9 When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40. The Tighten Gas Cap message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) will be displayed if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-54 for more information. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40. 5-10 Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:127) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:127) Do not use a cellular phone while pumping fuel. 5-11 Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-12 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 1. Pull the hood release lever with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle on the lower left side of the instrument panel. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and ﬁnd the secondary hood release lever. The lever is located under the front edge of the grille near the center. Push the release lever up and raise the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it ﬁrmly. 5-13 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood, here is what you will see: 5-14 A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-39. B. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-122. C. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-44. D. Remote Negative (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-44. E. Passenger Compartment Air Filter. See Passenger Compartment Air Filter on page 3-28. F. Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on page 5-33. G. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Under Engine Cover). See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-38. H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. I. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. J. Hydraulic Clutch Reservoir (If Equipped) (Not Shown). See “When to Check and What to Use” under Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-26. K. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir (Out of View). See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-40. L. Engine Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-30 and Cooling System on page 5-33. M. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21. 5-15 Engine Oil There is an oil pressure light in the instrument cluster and an Oil Pressure Low Stop Engine message on the Driver Information Center (DIC). If the light and/or message appear, check the engine oil level right away. For more information, see “Oil Pressure Low Stop Engine” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-54 and Oil Pressure Light on page 3-43. You should check the engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. 5-16 When to Add Engine Oil See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. If the oil level is within the add cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-128. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the proper operating range and into the upper cross-hatched area on the dipstick, the engine could be damaged. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. 5-17 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use If you use oils that do not have the Notice: GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty. (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:127) Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Look for three things: (cid:127) GM4718M Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identiﬁed as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. 5-18 Look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Your vehicle’s engine is ﬁlled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM standards are all you need for good performance and engine protection. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A Change Engine Oil Soon message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-54. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. 5-19 How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a Change Engine Oil Soon message being turned on, reset the system. Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the Engine Oil Life System: 1. Display the OIL LIFE REMAINING on the DIC. 2. Press and hold the SET/RESET button on the DIC for more than ﬁve seconds. The oil life will change to 100%. If the Change Engine Oil Soon message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the Engine Oil Life System has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help. 5-20 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The engine air cleaner/ﬁlter is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle, near the front. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter, remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition off. 2. Remove side cover by pulling up on front of cover. 5-21 3. Disconnect electrical connector from air box. 4. Loosen the screw on the clamp holding the air outlet duct in place. Do not pry the clamp off. position the duct aside. 5. Remove the rubber hose from the air cleaner housing mounting arm. Position the rubber hose aside. 6. Remove the three air cleaner housing cover screws. 5-22 7. Pivot the air cleaner housing cover and remove the cover from the air cleaner housing. 8. Remove the air cleaner element from the air cleaner housing. 5-23 How to Reinstall Engine Air Cleaner/Filter 1. Install the air cleaner element to the air cleaner housing. Ensure that the air cleaner element perimeter seal is installed correctly to the air cleaner housing. 2. Align the air cleaner housing cover tabs to the air cleaner housing. 3. Install the air cleaner housing cover. 4. Install the air cleaner housing cover screws. 5. Install the surge tank hose to the air cleaner housing mounting arm. Ensure that the hose is routed correctly. 6. Install the air cleaner outlet duct to the air cleaner housing. 7. Tighten the air cleaner outlet duct screw clamp. 8. Attach electrical connector to airbox. 9. Reinstall side cover. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. 5-24 Automatic Transmission Fluid How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. There is a special procedure for checking and changing the transmission ﬂuid. Because this procedure is difficult, you should have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. Contact your dealer/retailer for additional information or the procedure can be found in the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-5, and be sure to use the ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check Manual Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the manual transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. How to Check Manual Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid. 5-25 Check the ﬂuid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your ﬁngers on the transmission case. To check the ﬂuid level, do the following: 1. Remove the ﬁller plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. 3. If the ﬂuid level is good, replace the gasket and reinstall the ﬁller plug. With either vehicle, be sure the plug is fully seated. If the ﬂuid level is low, add more ﬂuid as described in the next steps. How to Add Manual Transmission Fluid Here is how to add ﬂuid. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11 to determine which type of ﬂuid to use. 1. Remove the ﬁller plug. 2. Add ﬂuid at the ﬁller plug hole. Add only enough ﬂuid to bring the ﬂuid level up to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. 3. Replace the gasket and reinstall the ﬁller plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. 5-26 Hydraulic Clutch It is not necessary to regularly check clutch ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding ﬂuid will not correct a leak. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. When to Check and What to Use The hydraulic clutch ﬂuid reservoir cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the ﬂuid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper ﬂuid to use. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-8 and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. How to Check and Add Fluid Make sure the ﬂuid level is at the MIN (Minimum) line on the side of the reservoir. If it is not, remove the cap and add the proper ﬂuid until the level reaches the MIN line. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains the cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If the engine overheats, see Engine Overheating on page 5-30. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Allow the warning lights and gages to work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the ﬁrst maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-27 If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than once or twice a year, have your dealer/retailer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11 for more information. If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 5-28 Checking Coolant The coolant surge tank and pressure cap are located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, toward the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. {CAUTION: Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FROID/FULL COLD line on the side of the surge tank. Follow the arrow from the top of the tank down the side to the horizontal mark. 5-29 Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Engine Overheating There are two engine hot messages that may be displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-54 for more information. 5-30 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-32 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-32 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An Engine Overheated Idle Engine warning, along with low coolant, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an Engine Overheated Idle Engine warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. 5-31 (cid:127) (cid:127) If you get the Engine Overheated Idle Engine warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Set the climate controls to the highest heat setting and fan speed and open the windows, as necessary. If you no longer have the Engine Overheated Idle Engine warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Should a hot engine condition exist, an overheat protection mode which alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, there is a loss in power and engine performance. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss and change the oil. See Engine Oil on page 5-16. 5-32 Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. A. Electric Engine Cooling Fans (Out of View) B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap 5-33 If the engine is warm or hot, the coolant level should be at or above the FROID/FULL COLD line on the side of the coolant surge tank. If the engine is cold, the coolant level should be near the FROID/FULL COLD line on the side of the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you could have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine hot light is on, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-32 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. 5-34 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the FROID/FULL COLD line on the side of the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-27 for more information. {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. 5-35 {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: 1. Remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter turn and then stop. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 5-36 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it. 3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture, to slightly above the FROID/FULL COLD line on the side of the coolant surge tank. 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. The upper radiator hose is the top hose coming out of the radiator, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FROID/FULL COLD line on the side of the coolant surge tank. 5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. Recheck the coolant level in the bottle next time you use your vehicle to insure the system is full when cold. See Engine Coolant on page 5-27. 5-37 Power Steering Fluid See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the power steering ﬂuid reservoir. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Notice: Use of the incorrect ﬂuid may damage your vehicle and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the correct ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. 5-38 Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid The Washer Fluid Low Add Fluid message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) when the ﬂuid level is low. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-54 for more information. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill the washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for ﬂuid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint. 5-39 (cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid The brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake hydraulic system. If it is, you should have the brake hydraulic system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well. 5-40 It is not a good idea to top off the brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If ﬂuid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much ﬂuid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If your vehicle has too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. If the ignition is in ON/RUN and the brake ﬂuid is low, the Service Brake System message will be displayed in the DIC. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-54. When the brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, the brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-37. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-115. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, DOT-3 brake ﬂuid is recommended for use. DOT-4 brake ﬂuid is also compatible with your vehicle’s brake system parts. However, if you choose to use DOT-4 ﬂuid, it is recommended that you ﬂush the brake hydraulic system and reﬁll it with new DOT-4 ﬂuid at a regular maintenance service every two years. See Additional Required Services on page 6-5. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. 5-41 (cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque speciﬁcations in Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-128. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear. 5-42 Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. It is located in the trunk, behind the trim panel, on the passenger side of the vehicle. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. After a power loss, such as disconnecting the battery or removing the maxi fuses in the power distribution fuse block, the following steps must be performed to calibrate the electronic throttle control. If this is not done, the engine will not run properly. 1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN. Do not start the engine. 2. Leave the ignition in ON/RUN for at least three minutes so that the electronic throttle control will cycle and re-learn its home position. 3. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF. 4. Start and run the engine for at least 30 seconds. 5-43 Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Vehicle Storage {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-44 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time. 5-44 Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations or the remote positive (+) and remote negative (−) terminals of the other vehicle. Then locate the remote positive (+) location on your vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on locations the terminals. 5-45 Notice: If you connect a negative cable to the Engine Control Module (ECM), ECM mounting bracket, or any cables that attach to the ECM bracket, you may damage the ECM. Always attach the negative cable to your vehicle’s remote negative ground location, instead of the ECM, ECM bracket, or any cables attached to the ECM bracket. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) ground location, as shown in the illustration. It is located on the rear passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14. You should always use this remote ground location, instead of the terminal on the battery. 5-46 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 5-47 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Your vehicle’s remote negative (−) ground location is for this purpose. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 5-48 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. All-Wheel Drive If your vehicle is equipped with all-wheel-drive, this is an additional system that needs lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check the transfer case ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. 5-49 If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant A. Drain Plug B. Fill Plug To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. 5-50 How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the rear axle, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles ﬂash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described. 5-51 The vehicle should: (cid:127) Be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall. To adjust the vertical aim: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-13 for more information. (cid:127) Have all four tires on a level surface which is level all the way to the wall. (cid:127) Be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall. (cid:127) Not have any snow, ice, or mud on it. (cid:127) Be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being performed. (cid:127) Normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver seat. (cid:127) Have all tires properly inﬂated. (cid:127) Have the spare tire is in its original location in the vehicle. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. 5-52 Base Level Uplevel 2. Locate the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam headlamp. 3. Record the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the low-beam headlamp. 4. At a wall, measure from the ground upward (A) to the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it. 5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) the width of the vehicle at the wall where it was marked it Step 4. Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the ﬂat surface. 5-53 9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim. 10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite headlamp. Passenger’s Side Shown 7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm hex socket. 8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. 5-54 Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-57. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer. High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting {CAUTION: The low beam high intensity discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer/retailer or a qualiﬁed technician service them. Your vehicle has HID headlamps. After your vehicle’s HID headlamp bulb has been replaced, you may notice that the beam is a slightly different shade than it was originally. This is normal. 5-55 Front Turn Signal and Fog Lamps License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: To replace fog lamp bulb: 1. Pull out the push-pins located on the underside of the protection shield to remove the shield. 2. Reach up behind the front bumper area from under the vehicle to access the lamp housing. 3. Remove the bulb socket from the housing by turning the bulb socket one-quarter turn counterclockwise. 4. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by lifting the two plastic clips. 5. Pull the old bulb from the bulb socket keeping the bulb straight as you pull it out. 6. Install a new bulb. 7. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp assembly. 5-56 1. Push tabs to remove the license plate lamp. 2. Turn the license plate lamp assembly down to remove it. 3. Turn the socket counterclockwise and remove it. 4. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it. 5. Push the new bulb straight into the socket. 6. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the license plate lamp assembly. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Front Turn Signal Fog Lamp (Uplevel Only) License Plate Lamp 3157K H11LL W5WLL For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-8. It is a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly on a regular basis or when worn. For proper windshield wiper blade length and type, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. To replace the wiper blade assembly: 1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN with the engine off. 2. Turn on the windshield wipers and turn them off again when the wipers are in the out-wipe position. The driver side blade will be straight up and down on the windshield. 3. Pull the windshield wiper assembly away from the windshield. 5-57 4. Lift up the wiper blade assembly cap. 5. Pull the wiper blade assembly down far enough to release it from the J-hooked end of the wiper arm. Slide the assembly away from the arm. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 6. Replace the blade with a new one. 7. Reinstall the wiper blade assembly by sliding it over the wiper arm to engage the J-hooked end. Pull up on the assembly to lock it into place. 8. Repeat the steps for the other wiper. 5-58 Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. {CAUTION: (cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much ﬂexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. See High-Speed Operation on page 5-69 for inﬂation pressure adjustment for high speed driving. 5-59 If your vehicle has low-proﬁle tires, Low-Proﬁle Tires If your vehicle has 235/50ZR18 or P235/50R18 size tires, they are classiﬁed as low-proﬁle tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-proﬁle performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard proﬁle tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your vehicle warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inﬂation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards. Winter Tires If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. All season tires provide good overall performance on most surfaces but they may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. Winter tires, in general, are designed for increased traction on snow and ice covered roads. With winter tires, there may be decreased dry road traction, increased road noise, and shorter tread life. After switching to winter tires, be alert for changes in vehicle handling and braking. See your dealer/retailer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 5-77. If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all four wheel positions. (cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load range, and speed rating as the original equipment tires. Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W, Y, and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability. 5-60 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. 5-61 (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-80. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. 5-62 Compact Spare Tire Example (A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-111 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-83. (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67. (F) Tire Size : A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. 5-63 (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. 5-64 Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. 5-65 Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. 5-66 Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-76. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-80. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much ﬂexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and shows the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. 5-67 When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, if your vehicle has one. The compact spare should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-111. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they are underinﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. 5-68 High-Speed Operation {CAUTION: Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inﬂation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inﬂation pressure for the vehicle load. If your vehicle has 235/50ZR18 size tires, they will require inﬂation pressure adjustment when driving your vehicle at speeds of 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher . Set the cold inﬂation pressure to the maximum inﬂation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or 44 psi (300 kPa), whichever is lower. See the example following. When you end this high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold tire inﬂation pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67. Example: You will ﬁnd the maximum load and inﬂation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters, near the rim ﬂange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 690 kg (1521 lbs) 300 kPa (44 psi) Max. Press. For this example, you would set the inﬂation pressure for high-speed driving at 44 psi (300 kPa). 5-69 Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inﬂated to the inﬂation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inﬂation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inﬂate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inﬂation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inﬂation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will ﬂash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-71 for additional information. 5-70 Tire Pressure Monitor Operation The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Using the Driver Information Center (DIC), the driver can also check tire pressure levels using the DIC. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-48 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-54.

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2008 Cadillac CTS Owners Manual