2004 Pontiac VIBE Owners Manual

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the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. 4-38 Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal ﬂasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also ﬂash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transaxle overheating. Parking on Hills {CAUTION: You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle or into gear for a manual transaxle, yet. When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb. 2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle or REVERSE (R) for a manual transaxle. 5. Release the regular brakes. 4-39 When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you: • start your engine, • shift into a gear, and • release the parking brake. 2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle ﬂuid (don’t overﬁll), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you ﬁnd them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See EngineOverheatingon page5-30. 4-40 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ............................................................5-3 Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-3 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle ..............................................5-4 Fuel ................................................................5-4 Gasoline Octane ............................................5-4 Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-5 California Fuel ...............................................5-5 Additives .......................................................5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-6 Filling Your Tank ............................................5-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container .......................5-9 Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10 Hood Release ..............................................5-10 Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12 Engine Oil ...................................................5-16 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-21 Automatic Transaxle Fluid ..............................5-23 Manual Transaxle Fluid ..................................5-25 Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-26 Engine Coolant .............................................5-27 Radiator Pressure Cap ..................................5-29 Engine Overheating .......................................5-30 Cooling System ............................................5-32 Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-38 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-39 Brakes ........................................................5-40 Battery ........................................................5-44 Jump Starting ...............................................5-45 All-Wheel Drive ..............................................5-51 Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-52 Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-52 Headlamps ..................................................5-52 Front Turn Signal Lamps ...............................5-54 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-55 Rear Combination Lamps ...............................5-56 Back-Up Lamps ............................................5-58 Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-59 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-60 Tires ..............................................................5-61 Inﬂation — Tire Pressure ...............................5-67 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-68 When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-70 Buying New Tires .........................................5-71 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-72 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-73 Wheel Replacement ......................................5-74 Tire Chains ..................................................5-75 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-76 Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-77 Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-88 5-1 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Appearance Care ............................................5-89 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .................5-89 Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-92 Weatherstrips ...............................................5-92 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle ..............5-92 Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-94 Finish Damage .............................................5-94 Underbody Maintenance ................................5-95 Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-95 Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-95 Vehicle Identiﬁcation ......................................5-97 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) .................5-97 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label .....................5-97 Electrical System ............................................5-97 Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-97 Headlamp Wiring ..........................................5-98 Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-98 Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-98 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-98 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-101 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts .........5-103 5-2 Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page7-11. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see ServicingYourAir Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page1-56. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See PartE:MaintenanceRecordonpage6-28. {CAUTION: You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. • Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-3 Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 1.8L engine (VIN Code 8), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 1.8L H.O. DOHC engine (VIN Code L), use only premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 91 or higher. In an emergency, you may be able to use a lower octane — as low a 87 — if heavy knocking does not occur. Reﬁll your tank with premium fuel as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. If you are using 91 octane or higher-octane fuel and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. CAUTION: (Continued) • Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identiﬁcation number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes your engine. You will ﬁnd the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See VehicleIdentiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page5-97. 5-4 Gasoline Speciﬁcations It is recommended that gasoline meet speciﬁcations which were developed by automobile manufacturers around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org. Gasoline meeting these speciﬁcations could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline. In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump. California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see MalfunctionIndicatorLamponpage3-34) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Canada Only 5-5 Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. 5-6 Filling Your Tank {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Don’t smoke if you’re near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, ﬂames and smoking materials away from fuel. Don’t leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. 5-7 The fuel door release lever is located near the ﬂoor under the driver’s seat on the outboard side. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). {CAUTION: If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Don’t top off or overﬁll your tank, and wait a few seconds after you’ve ﬁnished pumping before you remove the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page5-92. While refueling, hang the fuel cap inside of the fuel door. 5-8 When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See MalfunctionIndicatorLampon page3-34. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you’re refueling, don’t remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index. Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: • Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. • Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. • Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. • Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. 5-9 Checking Things Under the Hood Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 1. Pull the release handle inside the vehicle. It’s located below the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel. {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-10 4. Release the hood prop rod from its retainer and put the hood prop rod into the slot in the hood. To insert the hood prop rod into the slot, move it straight up. If it is moved to the side or toward the inside of the vehicle, it may become detached. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle. Release the secondary hood release by pulling up on the lever located near the middle of the hood. 3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Make sure to return the hood prop rod carefully back in its retainer before closing the hood to avoid damaging the vehicle. 5-11 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood of the 1.8 L (Code 8) engine, you’ll see the following: 5-12 A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield Washer Fluid on page5-39. G. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped). See AutomaticTransaxleFluidonpage5-23. B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See PowerSteering Fluid on page5-38. C. Radiator Pressure Cap. See RadiatorPressureCap on page5-29. D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See EngineOilonpage5-16. E. Coolant Recovery Tank. See EngineCoolant on page5-27. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See EngineOilonpage5-16. H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See Hydraulic Clutch on page5-26. I. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See EngineAir Cleaner/Filter on page5-21. J. Battery. See Battery on page5-44. K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See “Engine Compartment Fuse Block” under FusesandCircuit Breakers on page5-98. 5-13 When you open the hood of the 1.8 L (Code L) H.O. DOHC engine, you’ll see the following: 5-14 A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield Washer Fluid on page5-39. G. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped). See AutomaticTransaxleFluidonpage5-23. B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See PowerSteering Fluid on page5-38. C. Radiator Pressure Cap. See RadiatorPressureCap on page5-29. D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See EngineOilonpage5-16. E. Coolant Recovery Tank. See EngineCoolant on page5-27. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See EngineOilonpage5-16. H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See Hydraulic Clutch on page5-26. I. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See EngineAir Cleaner/Filter on page5-21. J. Battery. See Battery on page5-44. K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See “Engine Compartment Fuse Block” under FusesandCircuit Breakers on page5-98. 5-15 Engine Oil Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. If the engine oil pressure light appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see OilPressureLighton page3-38. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See EngineCompartmentOverviewonpage5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1.8L (Code 8) Engine 1.8L (Code L) Engine 5-16 When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the hole at the tip of the dipstick, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page5-101. Notice: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged. See EngineCompartmentOverviewonpage5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. 5-17 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: • GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. 5-18 • SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, if it is going to be 0°F (–18°C) or above and SAE 5W-30 is not available, you may use SAE 10W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below - 20°F (- 29°C), it is recommend that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. 5-19 When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: • Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. • Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). • You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. • The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application. Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and ﬁlter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months — whichever occurs ﬁrst. If none of them are true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and ﬁlter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months — whichever occurs ﬁrst. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower. 5-20 What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The engine air cleaner/ﬁlter is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See EngineCompartmentOverviewonpage5-12 for more information on location. 5-21 To check or replace the ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Release the two clips that hold the cover down. 2. Lift the cover off. 3. Pull out the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 4. 5. Reinstall the cover. Install a new engine air cleaner/ﬁlter, if needed. 5-22 Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air ﬁlter. See PartA:ScheduledMaintenanceServices on page6-4. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it helps to stop ﬂame if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. Notice: If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you’re driving. Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Check the ﬂuid in the transaxle and differential every 30,000 miles (50 000 km). Change the ﬂuid every 60,000 miles (100 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: • In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. • In hilly or mountainous terrain. • When doing frequent trailer towing. • Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. See PartA:ScheduledMaintenanceServiceson page6-4. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle ﬂuid level if you have been driving: • When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). • At high speed for quite a while. • In heavy traffic – especially in hot weather. • While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 158°F to 176°F (70°C to 80°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. 5-23 1. Release the tab and pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be between the two dimples in the hot range. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: • Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. • With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). • With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). • Let the engine run at idle for three to ﬁve minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The automatic transaxle dipstick has an orange handle and is located near the front of the engine compartment. See Engine CompartmentOverview onpage5-12 for more information on location. 5-24 How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle ﬂuid to use. See PartD:RecommendedFluidsandLubricants on page6-26. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level into the area between dimples on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough ﬂuid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’toverﬁll. Notice: We recommend you use only ﬂuid labeled T-IV Automatic Transmission Fluid because ﬂuid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by ﬂuid other than T-IV Automatic Transmission ﬂuid is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. 3. After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check” previously in this section. 4. When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place. Manual Transaxle Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the ﬂuid in your manual transaxle doesn’t require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Pontiac dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle ﬂuid. Check the ﬂuid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transaxle is cool enough for you to rest your ﬁngers on the transaxle case. 5-25 Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. It is not necessary to regularly check the ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding ﬂuid won’t correct a leak. The clutch and brake master cylinder use the same reservoir. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. Then, follow these steps: 1. Remove the ﬁller plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of 3. the ﬁller plug hole. If the ﬂuid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the ﬂuid level is low, add more ﬂuid as described in the next steps. How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add ﬂuid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of ﬂuid to use. See PartD:RecommendedFluidsandLubricantson page6-26. 1. Remove the ﬁller plug. 2. Add ﬂuid at the ﬁller plug hole. Add only enough ﬂuid to bring the ﬂuid level up to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Install the ﬁller plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. 3. 5-26 When to Check and What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the ﬂuid level in your master cylinder reservoir and for the proper ﬂuid. See PartB:Owner ChecksandServices onpage6-19 and PartD: RecommendedFluids andLubricantson page6-26. How to Check and Add Fluid Check to make sure that the ﬂuid level is at or above the MIN mark. If the level is below the MIN mark, see the instructions on the reservoir cap. Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see EngineOverheatingon page5-30. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant will: • Give freezing protection down to - 34°F (- 37°C). • Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). • Protect against rust and corrosion. • Help keep the proper engine temperature. • Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. 5-27 What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean,drinkablewater and one-half half coolant that meets GM Speciﬁcation 1825-M, which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to GM Speciﬁcation 1825-M with a complete coolant ﬂush and reﬁll. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant. Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at LOW, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL, or a little higher. 5-28 Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper coolant mixture atthecoolantrecoverytank, but be careful not to spill it. {CAUTION: Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine. Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page5-32. Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: Your radiator cap is a 15.6 psi (110 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overﬂow tube on the radiator ﬁller. See EngineCompartmentOverviewonpage5-12 for more information on location. 5-29 Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page3-33. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. Notice: If your engine catches ﬁre because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. 5-30 If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: • Climb a long hill on a hot day. • Stop after high-speed driving. • Idle for long periods in traffic. • Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the window as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turnofftheengineandgeteveryone outofthevehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. 5-31 Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see: {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank C. Radiator Pressure Cap 5-32 The coolant level should be at or above the FULL mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it isn’t, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. 5-33 Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean,drinkablewater and a proper coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page5-27 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant. 5-34 CAUTION: (Continued) out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it. {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come CAUTION: (Continued) 5-35 How to Add Coolant to the Radiator 1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it ﬁrst stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap. 5-36 3. Fill the radiator with the proper coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See EngineCoolant onpage5-27 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. 4. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the FULL mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off. 6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. 7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper coolant mixture through the ﬁller neck until the level reaches the base of the ﬁller neck. 8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the ears on the pressure cap are in line with the vent tube. 5-37 Power Steering Fluid When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid You can check your ﬂuid without taking the cap off. Just look at the reservoir. • When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be between the HOT marks. • When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be between the COLD marks. The power steering ﬂuid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine CompartmentOverviewon page5-12 for reservoir location. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see PartD:RecommendedFluidsandLubricantson page6-26. Notice: When adding power steering ﬂuid or making a complete ﬂuid change, always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. 5-38 Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine CompartmentOverviewonpage5-12 for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid The low windshield washer ﬂuid level warning light will come on when the ﬂuid level is too low. See LowWasherFluidWarning Lightonpage3-39. Canada Only The windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. 5-39 Brakes Brake Fluid Notice: • When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. • Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer ﬂuid. • Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. • Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See EngineCompartment Overviewonpage5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. 5-40 So, it is not a good idea to “top off” your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. United States Canada When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See BrakeSystemWarning Light on page3-31. 5-41 What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See PartD:RecommendedFluidsandLubricants on page6-26. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: • Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. • If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Careonpage5-89. 5-42 Brake Wear The GT series has four-wheel disc brakes. All other models have front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly). {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. If you have rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page6-25. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. 5-43 Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco® battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® battery. See EngineCompartmentOverviewon page5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (- ) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See JumpStartingon page5-45fortipsonworkingaroundabattery withoutgettinghurt. Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. 5-44 Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: • They contain acid that can burn you. • They contain gas that can explode or • They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in neutral before setting the parking brake. 5-45 Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio! 4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (- ) terminal locations on each vehicle. See EngineCompartmentOverview onpage5-12 for more information on location. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 5-46 {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (- ) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (- ) terminal if the vehicle with the dead battery has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (- ) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (- ) cable to the negative (- ) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 5-47 7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (- ) cable to the negative terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (- ) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (- ) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (- ) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 5-48 9. Connect the other end of the negative (- ) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that has the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service. Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 5-49 To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (- ) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (- ) cable from the vehicle with good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery 5-50 All-Wheel Drive If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. However, it has two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case (Power Transfer Unit) When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See PartC:Periodic MaintenanceInspections on page6-24. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See PartD:Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page6-26. Carrier Assembly-Differential (Rear Drive Module) When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See PartA:ScheduledMaintenanceServicesonpage6-4. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem; check and have it repaired, if needed. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See PartD:Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page6-26. 5-51 Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page5-59. Headlamps Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. A. Headlamp B. Turn Signal Lamp 5-52 To replace the headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood and locate the lamp assembly. 2. Remove the rubber cover and socket from the headlamp. 5-53 Front Turn Signal Lamps To replace the front turn signal lamp bulbs, do the following: 1. See Headlamps on page5-52. 2. Locate the turn signal bulb. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing. 4. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb. 3. Release the retainer clip holding the bulb by pressing down and moving the metal retainer away from you. 4. Pull the bulb out of the ﬁxture. 5. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb. 5-54 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) To replace the center high-mounted stoplamp bulb, do the following: 1. The bulb is located on the inside of the liftgate liftglass near the top. Remove the two clips on both sides of the cover and remove it. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing. 2. Unscrew the two screws from the CHMSL housing and remove the housing to expose the bulb. 5-55 Rear Combination Lamps To replace the turn signal and brake lamp bulbs, do the following: A. Brake Lamp B. Turn Signal Lamp 4. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 5. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. 5-56 1. Remove the storage compartment cover in the rear cargo area of the vehicle to access the bulbs. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing. 5-57 3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. Back-Up Lamps The back-up lamp bulb is located below the rear combination lamps. 4. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. 5. Reinstall the cover. To replace the back-up lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Reach up under the rear fascia to locate the back-up lamp housing. 5-58 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing. Replacement Bulbs Lamps Headlamp High-/Low-Beam Front Turn Signal Brake Lamp Back-Up Lamps Rear Turn Signal CHMSL Bulb Number 9003 1157NA 7443 7440 7440 921 3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. 5-59 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” under AtLeastTwiceaYearonpage6-20 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the windshield. 5-60 2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly toward the driver’s side of the vehicle. 3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual and other glove compartment literature. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. • Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. CAUTION: (Continued) • Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. • Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. • Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-61 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into it’s sidewall. The following illustration shows an example of a passenger car tire sidewall. 5-62 A. Tire Size B. Department of Transportation (DOT) C. Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN) D. Tire Ply Material E. Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) F. Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. Department of Transportation (DOT): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire. Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page5-72. Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation— Tire Pressureonpage5-67 and LoadingYourVehicleon page4-32. 5-63 Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger car tire size. A. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire B. Tire Width C. Aspect Ratio D. Belt Rating E. Rim Diameter F. Load Range G. Speed Rating 5-64 Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter “P” as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association. Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is “70,” as shown in item “C” of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70% as high as it is wide. Belt Rating: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D” means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction. Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. Load Range: The load range represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. Speed Rating: The maximum speed that a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from “A” to “Z”. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories, for example, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, radio and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page4-32. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page4-32. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires that hold the tire onto the rim. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page4-32. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at alternate angles substantially less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa), before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation--TirePressureonpage5-67. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. There are 6.9 kPa’s to one psi. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. 5-65 Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Maximum Permissible Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum cold inﬂation pressure to which a tire may be inﬂated. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg). See LoadingYourVehicleonpage4-32. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of a asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand and or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation--TirePressure onpage5-67 and LoadingYourVehicleonpage4-32. Radial Ply tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at substantially 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire or a tire and tube assembly upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 2/32 inch of tread remains. See WhenIt Is Time for New Tires on page5-70. 5-66 Tread Width: The width of the tire’s tread. UTQGS: Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards, a tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See UniformTireQuality Grading on page5-72. Vehicle Capacity Weight: Is the number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See LoadingYourVehicle on page4-32 Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing original equipment tire size and the recommended cold inﬂation pressure. See Loading Your Vehicle on page4-32. Inﬂation — Tire Pressure The tire and loading information label, shows the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). See Loading Your Vehicle on page4-32. Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinﬂation or overinﬂation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinﬂation), you can get the following: • Too much ﬂexing • Too much heat • Tire overloading • Bad wear • Bad handling • Bad fuel economy If your tires have too much air (overinﬂation), you can get the following: • Unusual wear • Bad handling • Rough ride • Needless damage from road hazards 5-67 Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See WhenItIsTime forNewTiresonpage5-70 and WheelReplacement on page5-74 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See PartA:Scheduled MaintenanceServicesonpage6-4 for scheduled rotation intervals. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they’re underinﬂated. Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. 5-68 When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Tires should only be moved from front to rear and rear to front on the same side of the vehicle. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under CapacitiesandSpeciﬁcationsonpage5-101. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index. 5-69 You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: • You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. • You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. • The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. • The tire has a bump, bulge or split. • The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. 5-70 Buying New Tires To ﬁnd out what kind and size of tires you need, look

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2004 Pontiac VIBE Owners Manual