2004 Pontiac VIBE Owners Manual

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the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. 5-17 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: • GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. 5-18 • SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, if it is going to be 0°F (–18°C) or above and SAE 5W-30 is not available, you may use SAE 10W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below - 20°F (- 29°C), it is recommend that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. 5-19 When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: • Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. • Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). • You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. • The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application. Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and ﬁlter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months — whichever occurs ﬁrst. If none of them are true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and ﬁlter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months — whichever occurs ﬁrst. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower. 5-20 What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The engine air cleaner/ﬁlter is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See EngineCompartmentOverviewonpage5-12 for more information on location. 5-21 To check or replace the ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Release the two clips that hold the cover down. 2. Lift the cover off. 3. Pull out the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 4. 5. Reinstall the cover. Install a new engine air cleaner/ﬁlter, if needed. 5-22 Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air ﬁlter. See PartA:ScheduledMaintenanceServices on page6-4. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it helps to stop ﬂame if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. Notice: If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you’re driving. Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Check the ﬂuid in the transaxle and differential every 30,000 miles (50 000 km). Change the ﬂuid every 60,000 miles (100 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: • In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. • In hilly or mountainous terrain. • When doing frequent trailer towing. • Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. See PartA:ScheduledMaintenanceServiceson page6-4. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle ﬂuid level if you have been driving: • When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). • At high speed for quite a while. • In heavy traffic – especially in hot weather. • While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 158°F to 176°F (70°C to 80°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. 5-23 1. Release the tab and pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be between the two dimples in the hot range. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: • Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. • With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). • With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). • Let the engine run at idle for three to ﬁve minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The automatic transaxle dipstick has an orange handle and is located near the front of the engine compartment. See Engine CompartmentOverview onpage5-12 for more information on location. 5-24 How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle ﬂuid to use. See PartD:RecommendedFluidsandLubricants on page6-26. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level into the area between dimples on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough ﬂuid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’toverﬁll. Notice: We recommend you use only ﬂuid labeled T-IV Automatic Transmission Fluid because ﬂuid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by ﬂuid other than T-IV Automatic Transmission ﬂuid is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. 3. After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check” previously in this section. 4. When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place. Manual Transaxle Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the ﬂuid in your manual transaxle doesn’t require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Pontiac dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle ﬂuid. Check the ﬂuid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transaxle is cool enough for you to rest your ﬁngers on the transaxle case. 5-25 Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. It is not necessary to regularly check the ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding ﬂuid won’t correct a leak. The clutch and brake master cylinder use the same reservoir. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. Then, follow these steps: 1. Remove the ﬁller plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of 3. the ﬁller plug hole. If the ﬂuid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the ﬂuid level is low, add more ﬂuid as described in the next steps. How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add ﬂuid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of ﬂuid to use. See PartD:RecommendedFluidsandLubricantson page6-26. 1. Remove the ﬁller plug. 2. Add ﬂuid at the ﬁller plug hole. Add only enough ﬂuid to bring the ﬂuid level up to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Install the ﬁller plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. 3. 5-26 When to Check and What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the ﬂuid level in your master cylinder reservoir and for the proper ﬂuid. See PartB:Owner ChecksandServices onpage6-19 and PartD: RecommendedFluids andLubricantson page6-26. How to Check and Add Fluid Check to make sure that the ﬂuid level is at or above the MIN mark. If the level is below the MIN mark, see the instructions on the reservoir cap. Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see EngineOverheatingon page5-30. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant will: • Give freezing protection down to - 34°F (- 37°C). • Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). • Protect against rust and corrosion. • Help keep the proper engine temperature. • Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. 5-27 What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean,drinkablewater and one-half half coolant that meets GM Speciﬁcation 1825-M, which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to GM Speciﬁcation 1825-M with a complete coolant ﬂush and reﬁll. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant. Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at LOW, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL, or a little higher. 5-28 Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper coolant mixture atthecoolantrecoverytank, but be careful not to spill it. {CAUTION: Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine. Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page5-32. Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: Your radiator cap is a 15.6 psi (110 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overﬂow tube on the radiator ﬁller. See EngineCompartmentOverviewonpage5-12 for more information on location. 5-29 Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page3-33. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. Notice: If your engine catches ﬁre because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. 5-30 If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: • Climb a long hill on a hot day. • Stop after high-speed driving. • Idle for long periods in traffic. • Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the window as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turnofftheengineandgeteveryone outofthevehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. 5-31 Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see: {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank C. Radiator Pressure Cap 5-32 The coolant level should be at or above the FULL mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it isn’t, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. 5-33 Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean,drinkablewater and a proper coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page5-27 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant. 5-34 CAUTION: (Continued) out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it. {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come CAUTION: (Continued) 5-35 How to Add Coolant to the Radiator 1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it ﬁrst stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap. 5-36 3. Fill the radiator with the proper coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See EngineCoolant onpage5-27 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. 4. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the FULL mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off. 6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. 7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper coolant mixture through the ﬁller neck until the level reaches the base of the ﬁller neck. 8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the ears on the pressure cap are in line with the vent tube. 5-37 Power Steering Fluid When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid You can check your ﬂuid without taking the cap off. Just look at the reservoir. • When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be between the HOT marks. • When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be between the COLD marks. The power steering ﬂuid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine CompartmentOverviewon page5-12 for reservoir location. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see PartD:RecommendedFluidsandLubricantson page6-26. Notice: When adding power steering ﬂuid or making a complete ﬂuid change, always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. 5-38 Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine CompartmentOverviewonpage5-12 for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid The low windshield washer ﬂuid level warning light will come on when the ﬂuid level is too low. See LowWasherFluidWarning Lightonpage3-39. Canada Only The windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. 5-39 Brakes Brake Fluid Notice: • When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. • Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer ﬂuid. • Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. • Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See EngineCompartment Overviewonpage5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. 5-40 So, it is not a good idea to “top off” your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. United States Canada When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See BrakeSystemWarning Light on page3-31. 5-41 What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See PartD:RecommendedFluidsandLubricants on page6-26. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: • Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. • If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Careonpage5-89. 5-42 Brake Wear The GT series has four-wheel disc brakes. All other models have front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly). {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. If you have rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page6-25. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. 5-43 Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco® battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® battery. See EngineCompartmentOverviewon page5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (- ) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See JumpStartingon page5-45fortipsonworkingaroundabattery withoutgettinghurt. Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. 5-44 Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: • They contain acid that can burn you. • They contain gas that can explode or • They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in neutral before setting the parking brake. 5-45 Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio! 4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (- ) terminal locations on each vehicle. See EngineCompartmentOverview onpage5-12 for more information on location. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 5-46 {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (- ) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (- ) terminal if the vehicle with the dead battery has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (- ) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (- ) cable to the negative (- ) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 5-47 7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (- ) cable to the negative terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (- ) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (- ) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (- ) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 5-48 9. Connect the other end of the negative (- ) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that has the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service. Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 5-49 To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (- ) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (- ) cable from the vehicle with good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery 5-50 All-Wheel Drive If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. However, it has two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case (Power Transfer Unit) When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See PartC:Periodic MaintenanceInspections on page6-24. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See PartD:Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page6-26. Carrier Assembly-Differential (Rear Drive Module) When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See PartA:ScheduledMaintenanceServicesonpage6-4. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem; check and have it repaired, if needed. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See PartD:Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page6-26. 5-51 Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page5-59. Headlamps Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. A. Headlamp B. Turn Signal Lamp 5-52 To replace the headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood and locate the lamp assembly. 2. Remove the rubber cover and socket from the headlamp. 5-53 Front Turn Signal Lamps To replace the front turn signal lamp bulbs, do the following: 1. See Headlamps on page5-52. 2. Locate the turn signal bulb. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing. 4. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb. 3. Release the retainer clip holding the bulb by pressing down and moving the metal retainer away from you. 4. Pull the bulb out of the ﬁxture. 5. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb. 5-54 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) To replace the center high-mounted stoplamp bulb, do the following: 1. The bulb is located on the inside of the liftgate liftglass near the top. Remove the two clips on both sides of the cover and remove it. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing. 2. Unscrew the two screws from the CHMSL housing and remove the housing to expose the bulb. 5-55 Rear Combination Lamps To replace the turn signal and brake lamp bulbs, do the following: A. Brake Lamp B. Turn Signal Lamp 4. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 5. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. 5-56 1. Remove the storage compartment cover in the rear cargo area of the vehicle to access the bulbs. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing. 5-57 3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. Back-Up Lamps The back-up lamp bulb is located below the rear combination lamps. 4. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. 5. Reinstall the cover. To replace the back-up lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Reach up under the rear fascia to locate the back-up lamp housing. 5-58 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing. Replacement Bulbs Lamps Headlamp High-/Low-Beam Front Turn Signal Brake Lamp Back-Up Lamps Rear Turn Signal CHMSL Bulb Number 9003 1157NA 7443 7440 7440 921 3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. 5-59 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” under AtLeastTwiceaYearonpage6-20 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the windshield. 5-60 2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly toward the driver’s side of the vehicle. 3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual and other glove compartment literature. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. • Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. CAUTION: (Continued) • Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. • Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. • Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-61 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into it’s sidewall. The following illustration shows an example of a passenger car tire sidewall. 5-62 A. Tire Size B. Department of Transportation (DOT) C. Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN) D. Tire Ply Material E. Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) F. Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. Department of Transportation (DOT): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire. Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page5-72. Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation— Tire Pressureonpage5-67 and LoadingYourVehicleon page4-32. 5-63 Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger car tire size. A. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire B. Tire Width C. Aspect Ratio D. Belt Rating E. Rim Diameter F. Load Range G. Speed Rating 5-64 Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter “P” as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association. Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is “70,” as shown in item “C” of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70% as high as it is wide. Belt Rating: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D” means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction. Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. Load Range: The load range represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. Speed Rating: The maximum speed that a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from “A” to “Z”. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories, for example, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, radio and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page4-32. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page4-32. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires that hold the tire onto the rim. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page4-32. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at alternate angles substantially less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa), before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation--TirePressureonpage5-67. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. There are 6.9 kPa’s to one psi. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. 5-65 Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Maximum Permissible Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum cold inﬂation pressure to which a tire may be inﬂated. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg). See LoadingYourVehicleonpage4-32. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of a asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand and or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation--TirePressure onpage5-67 and LoadingYourVehicleonpage4-32. Radial Ply tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at substantially 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire or a tire and tube assembly upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 2/32 inch of tread remains. See WhenIt Is Time for New Tires on page5-70. 5-66 Tread Width: The width of the tire’s tread. UTQGS: Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards, a tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See UniformTireQuality Grading on page5-72. Vehicle Capacity Weight: Is the number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See LoadingYourVehicle on page4-32 Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing original equipment tire size and the recommended cold inﬂation pressure. See Loading Your Vehicle on page4-32. Inﬂation — Tire Pressure The tire and loading information label, shows the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). See Loading Your Vehicle on page4-32. Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinﬂation or overinﬂation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinﬂation), you can get the following: • Too much ﬂexing • Too much heat • Tire overloading • Bad wear • Bad handling • Bad fuel economy If your tires have too much air (overinﬂation), you can get the following: • Unusual wear • Bad handling • Rough ride • Needless damage from road hazards 5-67 Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See WhenItIsTime forNewTiresonpage5-70 and WheelReplacement on page5-74 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See PartA:Scheduled MaintenanceServicesonpage6-4 for scheduled rotation intervals. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they’re underinﬂated. Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. 5-68 When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Tires should only be moved from front to rear and rear to front on the same side of the vehicle. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under CapacitiesandSpeciﬁcationsonpage5-101. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index. 5-69 You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: • You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. • You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. • The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. • The tire has a bump, bulge or split. • The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. 5-70 Buying New Tires To ﬁnd out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the tire and loading information label. For more information about this label and where to ﬁnd it, see Loading Your Vehicle on page4-32. Make sure the replacements are the same size, load capacity, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires. {CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the index. {CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle. 5-71 Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum selection width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the Unites States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (11⁄2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction — AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. 5-72 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Temperature — A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. 5-73 Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle. {CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement. Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See ChangingaFlatTireonpage5-77 for more information. 5-74 Used Replacement Wheels {CAUTION: Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. Tire Chains Notice: Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires for front-wheel-drive vehicles. If your vehicle has all-wheel-drive, install the tire chains on the front or all four tires but never on the rear tires only. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle. 5-75 If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the ﬂat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ﬁrmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. {CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a ﬂat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a ﬂat tire. If a tire goes ﬂat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a ﬂat tire safely. 5-76 Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes ﬂat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning ﬂashers. {CAUTION: Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put an automatic transaxle shift lever in PARK (P), or shift a manual transaxle to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R). 3. Turn off the engine. To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end. The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. 5-77 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jack, wheel wrench, jack handle and spare tire are stowed in the rear of the vehicle, underneath the ﬂoor of the cargo area. To remove the spare tire and tools do the following: 1. Turn the two lock knobs on the ﬂoor of the cargo area to UNLOCK. 5-78 2. Lift up the cargo area ﬂoor panel, remove the hook attached to the bottom side of the panel and hook it over the weatherstripping. Notice: Make sure to place the hook in the proper location in order to avoid damaging the vehicle. Be sure to remove the hook when ﬁnished and place it back in its original position before closing the liftgate. 3. Remove the jack from the tray on the right side of the compartment and the jack handle and wheel wrench from the top side of the compartment. 4. Unscrew the center retaining nut and lift up the plastic tray to expose the compact spare tire. 5. Unscrew the center bolt from the compact spare tire and pull out the compact spare tire. See Compact SpareTireonpage5-88 for more information about the compact spare tire. 5-79 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A), jack handle (B) and wheel wrench (C). 6. Attach the jack handle to the jack. 7. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the lift head. 1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet. 5-80 2. Position the jack and raise the jack lift head to ﬁt over the car ﬂange between the two notches. {CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. {CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to ﬁt the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle. 5-81 4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the ﬂat tire. 3. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to ﬁt underneath the wheel well. 5. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. 5-82 {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. {CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident. 6. Reinstall the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. 5-83 {CAUTION: Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See “Capacities and Speciﬁcations” in the Index for wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. Notice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See “Capacities and Speciﬁcations” in the index for the wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. 7. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely. 8. Tighten the wheel nuts ﬁrmly in a crisscross sequence as shown. 5-84 Storing the Flat Tire and Tools {CAUTION: Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place. Return the jack, jack handle and wheel wrench to the storage area. The compact spare tire storage area is designed only for the compact spare tire, the standard tire cannot be stored there. To store the ﬂat tire do the following: 1. If your vehicle has aluminum wheels, remove the center wheel cap before storing the ﬂat tire. 2. Place the ﬂat tire on the rear cargo area ﬂoor panel with the outer side of the wheel facing up. 3. Use the tire tie-down belts located under the ﬂoor panel to secure the ﬂat tire. 4. Hook the belts (end closest to the buckle) to the rear, upper tie-down hooks. 5-85 5. Pass the belts through the center hole of the wheel. 6. Attach the other end of the belts to the rear, lower tie-down hooks. 7. Position the tire edge against the rear center end of the ﬂoor panel. Pull the end of the belts to make sure the tire is secure. 5-86 Storing the Spare Tire and Tools {CAUTION: Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place. A. Jack B. Wheel Wrench C. Bolt D. Spare Tire E. Jack Handle F. Nut Return the jack, jack handle, wheel wrench and compact spare tire to the storage area. When storing the compact spare tire, put it in place with the inner side of the wheel facing up. The compact spare tire storage area is designed only for the compact spare tire, the standard tire cannot be stored there. 5-87 Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inﬂated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inﬂation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inﬂated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 50 mph (80 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can ﬁnish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again. Notice: When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t ﬁt. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains won’t ﬁt your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare. 5-88 Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into ﬂames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you are cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: • Gasoline • Benzene • Naphtha • Carbon Tetrachloride • Acetone • Paint Thinner • Turpentine • Lacquer Thinner • Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous — some more than others — and they can all damage your vehicle, too. Do not use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: • Alcohol • Laundry Soap • Bleach • Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See VehicleCare/AppearanceMaterialson page5-95. 5-89 Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water. 2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaning instructions described earlier. 3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water and baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water. 4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry completely. 3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions described earlier. Here are some cleaning tips: • Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. • Clean up stains as soon as you can — before they set. • Carefully scrape off any excess stain. • Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. • If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set. Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. 3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Do not saturate the material and do not rub it roughly. 5. As soon as you have cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove any excess cleaner. 6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened towel or cloth. 7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry. 5-90 Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. • Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do this more than once. • Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you do not get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl cleaner. See your dealer for this product. Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. • For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. • Neveruse oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. • Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the ﬁnish, it can harm the leather. Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reﬂections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface ﬁnish. Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust ﬁlms on interior glass. See VehicleCare/AppearanceMaterialsonpage5-95. Notice: Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. 5-91 Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry. {CAUTION: Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page6-26. Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle

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2004 Pontiac VIBE Owners Manual