2008 Pontiac Grand PRIX Owners Manual

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-29 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

Notice: If your engine catches ﬁre because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-29 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer.

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If an overheat warning occurs without any sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Set the heater at the highest setting and the fan at

the highest speed and open the windows as necessary.

If the overheat warning no longer exists, the vehicle can be driven. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, the vehicle can be driven normally. If the warning continues, and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still there, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode The overheated engine protection operating mode allows the vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, this protection mode alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders to help prevent engine damage. In this mode, there will be a signiﬁcant loss in power and engine performance. The engine coolant temperature gage indicator will move to the shaded area, and the engine coolant temperature warning light will come on, showing that an overheated engine condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheated engine protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-15.

5-29

Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

5.3L V8 Engine

A. Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Coolant Recovery Tank

3.8L V6 Engine

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fan(s)

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{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

The coolant recovery tank is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle on the 3.8L V6 engine. The coolant recovery tank on the 5.3L V8 engine is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle, behind the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the COLD FILL line on the coolant recovery tank. To check the coolant level, look for the COLD FILL line on the side of the coolant recovery tank that faces the engine. If the level is not correct, there may be a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.

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{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan(s) are running. If the engine is overheating, the fan(s) should be running. If the fan(s) are not running, the vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-29 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km)

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or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the COLD FILL line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-24 for more information.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant level in the coolant recovery tank is at the COLD FILL line, start the vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the system is cool before you do it.

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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator (3.8L V6 Engine) Notice: Your engine has a speciﬁc radiator ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap and remove it.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

3. Remove the engine cover to access the

bleed valve.

3.1. Clean the area around the engine oil ﬁll tube

and cap before removing. Twist the oil ﬁll tube, with cap attached, counterclockwise and remove it.

3.8L V6 Engine

1. You can remove the pressure cap when the cooling

system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the cap slowly counterclockwise. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

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3.8L V6 Engine

3.2. Lift the engine cover at the front, slide the

catch tab out of the engine bracket and remove the cover.

3.3. Put the oil ﬁll tube, with cap attached, in the valve cover oil ﬁll hole until you are ready to replace the cover.

4. After the engine cools,

open the coolant air bleed valve located on the thermostat housing near the upper radiator hose.

Thermostat Housing

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7. Replace the engine cover.

7.1. Remove the oil ﬁll tube, with cap attached,

from the valve cover.

7.2. Insert the catch tab on the engine cover

under the bracket on the engine.

7.3. Place the hole in the engine cover over the

hole in the valve cover. Install oil ﬁll tube and cap by twisting clockwise.

8. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the COLD

FILL line.

9. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the pressure cap off.

3.8L V6 Engine

5. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®

coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-24 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from the air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve after the radiator is ﬁlled.

6. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine

and the compartment.

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3.8L V6 Engine

10. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the

upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan(s).

11. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the ﬁller neck until the level reaches the base of the ﬁller neck.

12. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during

this procedure if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

13. Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level in

the coolant recovery tank should be at the COLD FILL line when the engine is cold.

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How to Add Coolant to the Cooling System (5.3L V8 Engine) Notice: The engine has a speciﬁc cooling system drain and ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If the engine’s cooling system needs to be drained and re-ﬁlled, please see the dealer/retailer.

You can remove the pressure cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise.

1. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss

means that there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap to remove the

pressure cap.

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{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

3. Fill the cooling system with the proper DEX-COOL®

coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-24 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine

and the compartment.

5. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the COLD

FILL line.

6. Install the coolant recovery tank cap and the

pressure cap.

7. If the coolant in the recovery tank is constantly low,

you should have a dealer/retailer service department inspect your vehicle for leaks.

Power Steering Fluid

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless a leak is suspected in the system, or an unusual noise is heard. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on

the dipstick

The ﬂuid level should be between the ADD and HOT marks when the engine is cold. When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the HOT mark. If the ﬂuid is at the ADD mark when the engine is cold or hot, power steering ﬂuid should be added. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Notice: Use of the incorrect ﬂuid may damage your vehicle and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the correct ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.

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Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow

the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid.

(cid:127) Fill the washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full

when it is very cold. This allows for ﬂuid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating the vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir is low, a LOW WASHER FLUID message along with the washer symbol, comes on in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-67
for more information.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

The brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake hydraulic system. If it is, you should have the brake hydraulic system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.

It is not a good idea to top off the brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If ﬂuid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much ﬂuid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When the brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, the brake warning light comes on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-45.

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What to Add When you need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid.

(cid:127) If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted

surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-114.

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque speciﬁcations in Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-128. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.

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Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear.

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. If the battery has a very low charge or is dead, you might not be able to remove the ignition key from the ignition switch or shift out of PARK (P). See Shifting Out of PARK (P) on page 2-35.

Vehicle Storage

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-46 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.

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Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

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Ignoring these steps could result in costly

Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

If you leave your radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle.

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not use your vehicle’s battery for jump starting. It has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal, located on the underhood fuse block, for that purpose.

If your vehicle has one of the 3.8L V6 engines, to uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, press the tab at the bottom of the fuse block and lift the cover up.

3.8L V6 Engine

If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine, to uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, remove the fuse block cover.

5.3L V8 Engine

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Always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

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5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−), or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (–) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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If the jumper cables are connected or

Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its

original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

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Headlamp Aiming The visual optical headlamp aiming system has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, If the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles ﬂash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure.

The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: (cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are

25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall.

(cid:127) The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall. (cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular

to the wall.

(cid:127) The vehicle should not have any snow, ice, or

mud on it.

(cid:127) The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.

(cid:127) The vehicle should be normally loaded with a

full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver’s seat.

(cid:127) Tires should be properly inﬂated.

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Headlamp aiming is done with the low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. To adjust the vertical aim, do the following:

4. At the wall measure from the ground upward (A) to

the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it.

5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall the

width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4.

6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the ﬂat surface.

Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp.

1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11

for more information. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam lamp.

2. Locate the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam

headlamp.

3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim

dot on the lamp. Record the distance.

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Driver’s Side shown

7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood, near the headlamps. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. The adjustment screws can be turned with a 6 mm hex key bit socket or a 6 mm hex key.

8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam.

9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is

positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim.

10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite

headlamp.

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Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-60. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps To replace a headlamp or sidemarker bulb:

A. High-Beam Headlamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. Sidemarker Lamp 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11

for more information.

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2. Locate the metal retaining clip. Remove the bolt. 3. Pull up half-way on the metal retaining clip while pushing rearward on the headlamp. Align the square cut-out on the retaining clip with the notch on the headlamp.

4. Pull the headlamp assembly straight out from the

vehicle. Moving the headlamp up and down slightly may help with its removal.

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6. Pull the old bulb from the socket. 7. Place the new bulb into the socket. 8. Turn the bulb socket ring one-quarter turn clockwise

to reinstall it back into the headlamp assembly.

9. Carefully reinstall the headlamp assembly. 10. Push down on the metal retaining clip while pushing

rearward on the headlamp, making sure the headlamp assembly is secure.

11. Reinstall the bolt and tighten to secure.

A. High-Beam Headlamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. Sidemarker Lamp

5. Turn the bulb socket ring one-quarter of a turn

counterclockwise to remove it from the headlamp assembly.

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Front Turn Signal, Parking and Fog Lamps The front turn signal, parking, and fog lamps, if the vehicle has them, are located below the headlamp assembly.

2. Locate the front turn

signal/parking lamp (all models) and fog lamp bulbs (if equipped), which are located below the headlamp assembly.

A. Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp B. Fog Lamp (If Equipped) To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Follow Steps 1 through 4 of the headlamp

replacement procedure. See Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps on page 5-54 for more information.

The arrow indicates which is the turn signal/parking lamp bulb. The fog lamp bulb is below it, if your vehicle has this bulb. If you need to have fog lamp bulb replaced, see your dealer/retailer for service.

3. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn

counterclockwise to remove it from its assembly.

4. Pull the old bulb from the socket and replace it with

a new one.

5. Turn the bulb socket a quarter turn clockwise to

reinstall it.

6. Reinstall the headlamp assembly. 7. Push down on the metal retaining clip while pushing

rearward on the headlamp, making sure the headlamp assembly is secure.

8. Reinstall the bolt and tighten to secure.

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6. Remove the taillamp assembly by pulling it out from the vehicle.

7. Turn the appropriate

lamp socket a quarter turn counterclockwise and remove it.

Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps

A. Taillamp B. Taillamps, Turn Signal

and Stoplamps

1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-14 for more

information.

2. Remove the convenience net, if equipped, by

removing the net hook attachments.

3. Remove the plastic cap from the trunk trim. 4. Pull the trunk trim and carpet away from the back of

the trunk.

5. Remove the bottom bolt and two nuts.

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8. Remove the old bulb.

9. Replace with a new bulb into the socket and turn

the lamp socket clockwise to install it.

10. Reinstall the taillamp assembly by reversing

Steps 2 through 5.

Back-Up Lamps The back-up lamps are located on the trunk lid.

To replace the back-up lamp bulb(s): 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-14 for more

information.

2. Turn the appropriate lamp socket a quarter turn

counterclockwise and remove it.

3. Remove the old bulb. 4. Put the new bulb into the lamp socket. 5. Turn the bulb a quarter turn clockwise to reinstall it.

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License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-14

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamps

Back-Up Lamp

Front Parking/Turn Signal Lamp

Front Sidemarker and License Plate Lamp Headlamps

High-Beam Halogen Low-Beam Halogen

Bulb Number

3157

3757 NAK* or

5702 KA**

194

9005
9006
3057

Stop/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamps * Base Models with the Optional Fog Lamps ** For Lamps Not Equipped with the Fog Function and GXP Models

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.

2. Turn the appropriate lamp socket a quarter turn

counterclockwise and remove it.

3. Remove the old bulb. 4. Put the new bulb into the lamp socket. 5. Turn the bulb a quarter turn clockwise to reinstall it.

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Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. Here is how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away from

the windshield.

Windshield Replacement If your vehicle is equipped with the Head-Up Display (HUD) system, keep in mind that your windshield is part of the HUD system. If you ever have to get your windshield replaced, be sure to get one that is designed for HUD or your HUD image may look blurred or out of focus. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information on wiper blade inspection.

2. While holding the wiper arm, pull the clip up from

the blade connecting point, and pull the blade assembly down toward the windshield to remove it from the wiper arm.

3. Install the new wiper blade onto the wiper arm and

snap the clip into place.

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same

danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69.

(cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely

to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much ﬂexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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Low-Proﬁle Performance Tire (GXP) If your vehicle has P255/45R18 size tires on the front wheels and P225/50R18 size tires on the rear wheels, they are classiﬁed as low-proﬁle performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-proﬁle performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard proﬁle tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your vehicle warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inﬂation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.

If your vehicle has low-proﬁle tires,

Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

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(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-80. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

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Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-109 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-85.

(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69. (F) Tire Size : A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.

(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

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(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

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Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire.

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Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

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Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-77. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-80. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.

Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much ﬂexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards

5-69

A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-109.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they are under-inﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inﬂated to the inﬂation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inﬂation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inﬂate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inﬂation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability.

Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inﬂation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will ﬂash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-72 for additional information.

5-71

Tire Pressure Monitor Operation The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.

When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light, located in the instrument panel cluster.

Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation.

The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.

Changes or modiﬁcations to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.

5-72

At the same time a message to check the pressure in a speciﬁc tire appears on the Driver Information center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inﬂated to the correct inﬂation pressure. Using the DIC buttons, tire pressure readings can be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays (Uplevel DIC with Trip Computer) on page 3-55 or DIC Operation and Displays (Base Level DIC) on page 3-62 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-67. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is ﬁrst started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inﬂated to the proper pressure.

A tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69. Your vehicle’s TPMS system can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-75 and Tires on page 5-62. Your vehicle, when new, may have included a factory-installed Tire Inﬂator Kit. This kit uses a GM approved liquid tire sealant. See Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit (GXP) on page 5-86. Notice: Using non-approved tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. TPMS sensor damage caused by using an incorrect tire sealant is not covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use the GM approved tire sealant available through your dealer/retailer.

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TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light ﬂashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are: (cid:127) One of the road tires has been replaced with the

spare tire and wheel. The spare, if your vehicle has one, does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor.

(cid:127) The TPMS sensor matching process was started but

not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.

(cid:127) One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/retailer for service.

5-74

(cid:127) Replacement tires or wheels do not match your

vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tire and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 5-78.

(cid:127) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction.

If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on. TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identiﬁcation code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identiﬁcation codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel positions, in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer for service. The TPMS sensors may also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing the tire’s pressure, do not exceed the maximum inﬂation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key.

You have two minutes to match each tire and wheel position. If it takes longer than two minutes to match any tire and wheel position, the matching process stops and you need to start over. The TPMS matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the

engine off.

3. Press the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter’s

LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time for approximately ﬁve seconds. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in relearn mode.

4. Start with the driver side front tire. 5. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve stem.

Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for 10 seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds to sound, conﬁrms that the sensor identiﬁcation code has been matched to the tire/wheel position.

6. Proceed to the passenger side front tire, and repeat

the procedure in Step 5.

7. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire, and repeat

the procedure in Step 5.

8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5. The horn sounds two times to indicate the sensor identiﬁcation code has been matched to the driver side rear tire, and the TPMS sensor matching process is no longer active.

9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF. 10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure

level as indicated on the tire and loading information label.

11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect your vehicle’s tires, including the spare tire, for signs of wear or damage. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-77 for more information. Tire rotation is not recommended if your vehicle is a GXP model equipped with P255/45R18 size tires on the front wheels and P225/50R18 size tires on the rear wheels. Different tire sizes front to rear should not be rotated. Tire rotation is recommended if the original equipment tires installed on your vehicle are of the same size and type on all four tire/wheel positions. Original equipment tires of the same size and type should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

5-75

The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will ensure that your vehicle continues to perform most like it did when the tires were new. Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your vehicle’s tires as soon as possible and check the wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-77 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-82
for more information.

After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label, and reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-71 for additional information. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-128.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-96.

Rotation Pattern for Non-GXP Tires Only

The correct rotation pattern shown here is only for non-GXP tires. Do not include a compact spare tire, if your vehicle has one, in the vehicle’s tire rotation.

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When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions inﬂuence when you need new tires.

One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need new tires if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged

deep enough to show cord or fabric. (cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that

cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading conditions, and inﬂation pressure maintenance. With proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult the tire manufacturer for more information.

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Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched speciﬁc tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC Spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical speciﬁcations that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall near the tire size. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC Spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-63 for additional information.

GM recommends replacing tires in sets of four. This is because uniform tread depth on all tires will help keep your vehicle performing most like it did when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of tires can affect the braking and handling performance of your vehicle. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-75 for information on proper tire rotation.

{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle), brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle) may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type tires on all wheels. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, it is all right to drive your vehicle with the compact spare temporarily. It was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-109.

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{CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires.

Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system could give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC Spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-71. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.

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Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.

{CAUTION:

If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM speciﬁc wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certiﬁed technician.

See Buying New Tires on page 5-78 and Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for additional information.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment might need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper diagnosis.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, or Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, and TPMS sensors for your vehicle.

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Used Replacement Wheels

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-96 for more information.

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Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has P225/55R17, P255/45R18 or P225/50R18 size tires, do not use tire chains, there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions.

CAUTION:

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do ﬁnd traction devices that will ﬁt, install them on the front tires.

If your vehicle does not have P225/55R17,

Notice: P255/45R18 or P225/50R18 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class S-type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

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If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. See Tires on page 5-62. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the ﬂat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ﬁrmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

If a tire goes ﬂat, and your vehicle has a spare tire, see Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-96. This information shows you how to use your vehicle’s tire changing equipment and how to change a ﬂat tire safely.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a ﬂat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a ﬂat tire.

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If a Tire Goes Flat (GXP) GXP models have no spare tire, no tire changing equipment, and no place for storing a spare or ﬂat tire. If a tire goes ﬂat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place and stopping. Then do this: 1. Turn on the hazard warning ﬂashers. See Hazard

Warning Flashers on page 3-6.

2. Park your vehicle. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly and

put the shift lever in PARK (P). See Shifting Into PARK (P) on page 2-34 for additional information.

3. Turn off the engine. 4. Inspect the ﬂat tire. If the tire has been separated from the wheel or has damaged sidewalls or large tears that allow rapid air loss, call a tire repair facility. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If the ﬂat tire is due to a slow leak caused by a nail or other similar road hazard, the tire inﬂator kit may be used to temporarily repair the damaged tire. The kit uses a liquid tire sealant to seal small punctures in the tread area of the tire. The ﬂat tire is then inﬂated to at least 30 psi (207 kPa) and driven to evenly distribute the tire sealant. The tire pressure is checked after driving for a maximum of ﬁve miles (8.0 km) to see if the slow leak has been stopped. If the tire pressure is 19 psi (131 kPa) or more, inﬂate the tire up to the standard operating

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If the tire pressure has dropped below

pressure as shown on the tire and loading information label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center-pillar below the driver’s door latch. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69. Notice: 19 psi (131 kPa), the vehicle should not be driven. Damage to the tire may be severe and the sealant will not be effective. Contact Roadside Assistance, see Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. You should have the damaged tire repaired as soon as possible. The tire sealant is a temporary repair only. If the tire has been ﬁlled with tire sealant, take the tire to a GM dealer/retailer for inspection and repair. See Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit (GXP) on page 5-86
for additional information.

Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit (GXP) Your vehicle may have a tire inﬂator kit. The kit uses a liquid tire sealant and air at the same time to seal small punctures in the tread area of the tire. Be sure to read and follow all the tire inﬂator kit instructions.

The kit includes:

If the ﬂat tire is due to a slow leak caused by a nail or other similar road hazard, the tire inﬂator kit may be used to temporarily repair the damaged tire. After temporarily repairing a tire using the tire inﬂator kit, it is recommended to take your vehicle to your dealer/retailer within 100 miles (161 kilometers) of driving to have the tire inspected and repaired. If the sealant is not removed from the tire within a 100 miles (161 kilometers) of driving, it is more likely that the tire and tire pressure monitoring sensor may get damaged and have to be replaced.

A. Air Compressor B. Tire Sealant Canister C. Air Compressor Accessory Plug

D. On/Off Switch

E. Air Pressure Gage F. Air Compressor

Inﬂator Hose

G. Sealant Filling Hose

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Accessing the Tire Inﬂator Kit To access the tire inﬂator kit: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-14 for more

information.

2. Locate the tire inﬂator kit by lifting up the carpet.

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2008 Pontiac Grand PRIX Owners Manual