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compressing the hose.


3. Pull out the filter. Check or replace the engine air


cleaner/filter.


4. To reinstall the housing cover, make sure the filter


cover tabs position through the slots in the housing. A notch on the sides of the filter cover will indicate the correct engagement.


5. Fasten the two clips on the top of the housing when


you are finished.


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.


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Operating off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


Notice: If the air cleanedfilter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.


When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:


In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.


0 When doing frequent trailer towing.


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If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.


5-23


How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving:


When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.


0 While pulling a trailer.


To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (IO"C), you may have to drive longer. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows:


Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.


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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


The transaxle fluid dipstick top is a round, red loop and is located next to the brake master cylinder behind the engine block. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location.


1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or


paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


3.


4.


Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way.


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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL@ engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-29. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant will:


Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C) Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.


How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-24. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the


dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.


Notice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-Ill, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-Ill is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as


described under “How to Check,” earlier in this section.


4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


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Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine


(50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-@SOL@ esslani.


Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, neater core ana other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.


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Turnin- engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.


Checking Coolant


The engine coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, near the windshield. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-74 for more information on location.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the FULL HOT mark or a little higher.


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1 -J can __ burned if you spill coolant -.I hot


engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


~~


~~


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-32.


Radiator Pressure Cap


Notice: Your radiator cap is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage or a DIC warning message about a hot engine on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-45 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-60.


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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


rn


Steam from an overheated engine can you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


Notice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:


Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the window as necessary.


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


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Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:


A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans


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An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 14 for more information on location.


The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark when the engine is cold. The coolant level should be at the FULL HOT mark under normal operating conditions. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling syster


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you than run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That warranty. could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. -In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other


DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicie


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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information.


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX COOL@ coolant.


Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. 5-34


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle.


If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator


1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when


the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push


down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.


3. Remove the 3800 Series II V6 engine cover shield


to access the bleed valve.


3.1. Clean the area around the engine oil fill tube


and cap before removing. Twist the oil fill tube, with cap attached, counterclockwise and remnvc! it^


3.2. If you have the supercharged engine,


remove the nut in the center of the cover shield.


3.3. Lift the engine cover shield at the front, slide the catch tab out of the engine bracket and remove the cover shield.


3.4. Put the oil fill tube, with cap attached, in the valve cover oil fill hole until you’re ready to replace the cover shield.


4. After the engine cools,


open the coolant air bleed valve. There is one bleed valve. It is located on the thermostat housing.


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7. Replace the 3800 Series II V6 engine cover shield. 7.1. Remove the oil fill tube, with cap attached,


from the valve cover.


i.2. Insert the catch tab on the cover shield


under the bracket on the engine.


7.3. Place the hole in the cover shield over the


hole in the valve cover. Install oil fill tube and cap by twisting clockwise.


7.4. If you have the supercharged engine, install


the nut in the center of the cover shield.


5. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL@


coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve after the radiator is filled.


6. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine


and the compartment.


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8. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the


FULL COLD mark.


9. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but


leave the radiator pressure cap off.


11. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


12. Then replace the


pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap.


IO. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.


Be sure the arrow on the pressure cap lines up like this.


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Power Steering Fluid


The power steering fluid reservoir is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-74 for more information on location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 74 for reservoir location. 5-40


How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-24. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.


Adding Washer Fluid The washer fluid warning light will come on when the ignition switch is on and the fluid container is less than one-third full. On vehicles with the optional Driver Information Center (DIC), a WASHER FLUID LOW message will be displayed and a chime will sound letting you know to add windshield washer fluid to your vehicle.


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.


Notice:


When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


5-4 1


Brakes Brake Fluid


Your master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have


5-42


your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. If your vehicle has the Driver Information Center, the BRAKE FLUID LOW message will also be displayed. A chime will sound if you try to drive with this warning light on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-42.


What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-24. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help ke-- dirt from entering the reservoir.


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice:


Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.


* If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.


Brake wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).


The brake wear warning sound --jeans that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead KO an accident. wnen you near ine brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


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Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-23. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.


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If


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco@ battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


The battery is located under the rear seat cushion. To access the battery, see Removing the Rear Seat Cushion on page 5-95. You don't need to access the battery to jump start your vehicle. See Jump Starting on page 5-46.


A battery that isn't properly vented can let sulfuric acid fumes into the area under the rear seat cushion. These fumes can damage your rear seat safety belt systems. You may not be able to see this damage, and the safety belts might not provide the protection needed in a crash. If a replacement battery is ever needed, it must be vented in the same manner as the original battery. Always make sure that the vent hose is properly reattached before reinstalling the seat cushion.


To be sure the vent hose (A) is properly attached, the vent hose connectors (B) must be securely reattached to the vent outlets (C) on each side of the battery, and the vent assembly grommet (D) must be secured to the floor pan (E).


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Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive you vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from rl


ling down.


Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the si s below to do it safely.


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-98.


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.


If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


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Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. It must have a 12-volt 1. Check the other vehicle.


battery with a negative ground system.


Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL (N) before setting the parking brake.


Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!


4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and the negative (-) terminal locations on that vehicle. Open the hood on your vehicle and find the remote positive (+) terminal located in the engine compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location.


5-47


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco@ battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


You will not see the battery of your vehicle under the hood. It is located under the rear passenger’s seat. You will not need to access the battery for jump starting. The remote positive (+) terminal is for that purpose.


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


5-48


r Fans or other moving engine parts can injure


you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


6. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the batterv and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


7. Connect the red


positive (+) cable to the remote positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Don’t !et the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


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9. Now connect the black


negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.


10. Connect the other end


of the negative (-) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move.


Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


11.


12.


Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it Won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


5-50


Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other


vehicle.


5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover to its


original position.


A. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) or Remote


Negative (-) Terminals


c. Hexby, Unpainted Meta! Engine Part e!- !?em&?


Negative (-) Terminal


5-5 1


Headlamp Aiming


Your vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system equipped with horizontal aim indicators. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales.


5-52


If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low beam may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your dealer for service. However, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure. Notice: To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts. The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows:


The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other flat surface. The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other flat surface. The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other flat surface.


The headlamp aiming devices are under the hood near the headlamps.


0 The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud


attached to it.


* The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.


0 The vehicle should be normally loaded with a


full tank of fuel and one person or 160 Ibs. (75 kg) on the driver’s seat. Tires should be properly inflated.


Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle low beam lamps. The high beam lamps will be correctly aimed if the low beam lamps are aimed properly.


If you believe your headlamps need horizontal (lefthight) adjustment, follow the horizontal aiming procedure. If you believe your headlamps need only vertical -:-:-- \Up/UUvvl I) ~ U J U ~ C I procedure. Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx@ socket or T i 5 Torx@ screwdriver.


I IGI 11, IUIIUVV U I IIY LI I C V G I L l b a t a l l I 1 1 1 IY


x-II ^.., - - I . , +I..^


\ - - l : . . - L - - - L


.,-&:--I


1-1


5-53


Headlamp Horizontal Aiming Turn the horizontal aiming screw (A) until the indicator (B) is lined up with zero.


1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low


beam lamps.


Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim. Headlamp Vertical Aiming


Notice: Horizontal aiming must be performed before making any adjustments to the vertical aim. Adjusting the vertical aim first will result in an incorrect headlamp aim.


5-54


2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on each lamp; if left low beam, subtract two inches. Record this distance.


3. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2 and draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle.


4. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the flat surface.


Norice: DO noi cover a heariiarnp iu iii-lpi-uie 5386~ cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp.


5. Turn the vertical aiming


screw (C) until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line.


6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the opposite headlamp.


5-55


Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-60. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs


Headlamps


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


1. Reach behind the headlamp assembly, push in and turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to remove the bulb assembly from the headlamp assembly.


5-56


Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps


2. Lift the tabs to remove the bulb from the assembly. 3. Replace the bulb. Push the bulb assembly in


and turn it clockwise to install the bulb assembly into the headlamp assembly.


1. Remove the two bolts. 2. Use a larqe screwdriver by the outside mount to separate the lamp assembly from the outboard snap mounting pin. Slide the headlamp assembly outward and lift it out.


5-57


4.


5.


Tip the headlamp assembly and while pressing the release, turn the bulb and socket counterclockwise to remove them. Replace the bulb and reinstall the socket. Then reconnect the wiring harness to the lamp assembly.


3. ~iSCOnneCt the wiring harness from the headlamp


assembly.


5-58


6. Slide the lamp assembly back into place by lining


up the track on the bottom of the assembly with the guide on the vehicle. Then connect the outboard snap and secure the lamp assembly with the two bolts.


C. Taillamp D. PaiVBrake Lamp 1. Open the trunk. Turn the screws located inside of


the trunk counterclockwise and remove them. 2. Remove the plastic trim piece from the trunk.


5-59


3. Pull the carpeting away from the rear corner


of the trunk.


Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp


I Bulb Number


I Headlamp -High Beam Low Beam Parkingnurn Lamps


Taillamps Back-up Lamps StoDlamDs Turn


Front


Rear


9005 9006 I 3157


3057 3057 3057 I 3157


For any bulb not listed here contact Vour dealer.


4.


5.


6. 7.


Remove the three nuts holding the lamp in place and remove the lamp assembly. While pressing the release, turn the bulb socket assembly counterclockwise to remove it from the lamp assembly. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. Replace the bulb and reverse Steps 1 through 6 to reinstall the lamp assembly.


5-60


Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-18 for more information. For the proper windshield wiper blade replacement length and type, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5- 101. To replace the wiper blade assembly: 1. Lift the wiper up from the windshield and set into


the vertically-locked position.


2. Press the tab that holds the wiper blade to the arm. 3. Slide the blade down and off the arm. 4. Slide in the new blade and snap into place.


5-6 1


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your P


tiac Warranty booklet for details.


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See ”Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


5-62


Overinflated tires are more likely be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact - such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. See ”Inflation - Tire Pressure” in this section for inflation pressure adjustment for higher speed driving.


Inflation -- Tire Pressure


The Tire-Loading Information label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). If you’ll be driving at high speeds (e.g., speeds of 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher), where it is legal, set the cold inflation pressure to the maximum inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or to 35 psi (244 kPa), whichever is lower.


See the example below. When you end this high-speed driving, return to the cold inflation pressure shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Example: You’ll find maximum load and inflation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters near the rim flange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 690 kg (1521 Ibs) @ 300 kPa (44 psi) Max. Press. For this example, you would set the inflation pressure for high-speed driving at 35 psi (244 kPa). Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:


Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy


If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:


Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards


When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keenin9 out dirt and moisture.


5-63


Check Tire Pressure System The check tire pressure system can alert you to a large change in the pressure of one tire. The system won’t alert you before you drive that a tire is low or flat. You must begin driving before the system will work properly. The CHECK TIRE PRESSURE message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) or the system monitor TIRE PRESS light will come on if pressure difference (low pressure) is detected in one tire. The check tire pressure system may not alert you if:


more than one tire is low, the vehicle is moving faster than 65 mph (105 km/h), the system is not yet calibrated, the compact spare tire is installed, the tire treadwear is uneven, tire chains are being used, or the vehicle is being driven on a rough or frozen road.


5-64


If the anti-lock brake system warning light comes on, the check tire pressure system may not be working properly. See your dealer for service. Also, see Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light on page 3-43. The check tire pressure system detects differences in tire rotation speeds that are caused by changes in tire pressure. The system can alert you about a low tire - but it doesn’t replace normal tire maintenance. See Tires on page 5-62. When the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE message appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) or the systems monitor TIRE PRESS light comes on, you should stop as soon as you can and check all your tires for damage. If a tire is flat, see If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-72. Also check the tire pressure in all four tires as soon as you can. See Inflation -- Tire Pressure on page 5-62. Any time you adjust a tire’s pressure or have one or more tires repaired or replaced, you’ll need to reset (calibrate) the check tire pressure system. You’ll also need to reset the system whenever you rotate the tires, buy new tires and install or remove the compact spare. Don’t reset the check tire pressure system without first correcting the cause of the problem and checking and adjusting the pressure in all four tires. If you reset the system when the tire pressures are incorrect, the check tire pressure system will not work properly and may not alert you when a tire is low or high.


. . ,


3.


4.


To reset (calibrate) the system with a Driver Information Center (DIC): 1. 2.


Turn the ignition switch to ON. Using the MODE and SELECT buttons, change the DIC to display TIRE PRESSURE. Press and hold the RESET button for about five seconds. The display should change to read TIRE PRESSURE RESET. If TIRE PRESSURE RESET does not appear on the display after about five seconds, see your dealer for service. When you release the button after seeing the TIRE PRESSURE RESET message, the display will change to read TIRE PRESSURE NORMAL.


5.


To reset (calibrate) the system with a systems monitor: 1. 2.


Turn the ignition switch to ON. Press and hold the TIRE PRESS RESET button for about five seconds. T I L - T I ~ T nnr-nn I:-.LL -- L L - I I le I 1nc r ncaa I I ~ I 11 VI I 11 I C a y a t c l I 13 I I IUI IILUI should begin to flash. If the TIRE PRESS light does not begin to flash after about five seconds, see your dealer for service.


-..-.I.---


n 3 .


4. Release the TIRE PRESS RESET button and the


system should reset. The TIRE PRESS light will go out.


The system Completes the calibration process during driving. Calibration time can take 45 to 90 minutes, depending on your driving habits. After the system has been calibrated, the system will alert the driver that a tire is low, up to a maximum speed of 65 mph (1 05 km/h).


Tire Inspection and Rotation


Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-67 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-69 for more information. Tne purpose oi reguiar rorarion is io acnieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services,” in Section 6, for scheduled rotation intervals.


5-65


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.


When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Reset the check tire pressure system. See Check Tire Pressure System on page 5-64. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5- 100.


5-66


When It Is Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:


You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. YOU can see cord or tabric snowing tnrougn tne tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.


The tire has a bump, bulge or split.


b The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that


can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. Buying New Tires


To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.


5-67


to lose control


Mixing tires couh :ause you while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare, though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


5-68


Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as


a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation i-ledf vvi-Iei-1 t&& ui ireai ar~d iis aLiiiiy iu dissip& under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard


No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.


5-69


Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-73 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.


5-70


licle is


wheel o ~ O L


Putting a us dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


Notice: If your vehicle has a tire size other than P235/55R17 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class ”S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowiy and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.


Tire Chains


If your vehicle has P235/55R17 size tires, don’t use tire chains, there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.


5-7 1


Accessory Inflator


Notice: Don’t run your air inflator for longer than 30 minutes at one time. If you do, you may damage the system. The air inflator comes with a kit that includes a 20-foot (6.1 m) hose and an air pressure gage, as well as instructions and special adapters for inflating things like an air mattress or a basketball. If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout”, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop - well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


-1


If your vehicle has an air inflator, it is located in the trunk. The air inflator will wo only with the ignition on.


Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate any object only to its recommended pressure.


Pressing the AIR button will activate the inflator for ten minutes.


5-72


Changing a Flat Tire


If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazar ' varning flasl s.


Changing L h e can cause an vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


y. ... 2


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine.


To be even more certain the vehicle won't move: you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.


The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.


5-73


Removing the Spare Tire and Tools


5. Remove the wheel wrench, jack and the spare tire


from the trunk.


The equipment you’ll need is in the trunk.


1. Pull the carpeting from the floor of the trunk. 2. Remove the retainer, then lift and remove the cover. 3. Remove the compact spare tire. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-81 for more information about the compact spare tire.


4. Unscrew the wing nuts to remove the container that


holds the wrench and jack.


The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B). Removing the Wheel Covers and Wheel Nut Caps If your vehicle has aluminum wheels and a center cover hides the wheel nuts, remove the center cover by using the flat end of the wrench to pry it off. Do not drop the cover or lay it face down, as it could become scratched or damaged. Do not use a hammer or mallet on this type of cover.


5-74


Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire


2. The jack has a bolt at the end. Attach the wheel


wrench to the bolt to create a jack handle.


1. Use the wheel wrench to loosen the wheel nuts, but


don't remove them.


3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower


the jack lift head until it fits under the vehicle.


5-75


I


4. Put the jack head into a notch in the frame which is


located near each wheel well. The front notch is 11 inches (28 cm) back from the front wheel well. The rear notch is 3.5 inches (9 cm) forward from the rear wheel well.


5-76


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


Raising your vehicle with the ja improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.


5. Raise the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit under the wheel well.


6. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.


7. Remove any rust or dirt


from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.


Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


5-77


Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.


8. Place the compact spare tire on the wheel-mounting


surface.


9. Then reinstall the


wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel.


Make sure each wheel bolt is centered in each wheel hole while tightening the nuts. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.


5-78


10. Lower the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


11. Tighten the wheel nuts


firmly in a crisscross sequence.


Notice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the index for the wheel nut torque specification.


12. Don’t try to put the wheel cover on the compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have replaced the compact spare tire with a regular tire.


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See ”Capacities and Specifications” in the Index for wheel nut torque specification.


Notice: Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare. When you reinstall the full size wheel and tire, you install the wheel cover or nut caps at this point. When reinstalling the nut caps on aluminum wheels, AI-- --_- -_..- ..,:&I- &L- ..,L--l llylllell tile Lapa a11uy v v l u I 11 I G V V I I G G I continue tightening one-quarter turn for plastic caps, or one-eighth turn for steel caps. Do not overtighten.


.-,v-mah VVIGII’CIII.


*:-.LA-.-


I I I G I I


5-79


C+oring the Flat Tire -nd T v l s


Storing ‘he S-nre T:-e and Tc-Is I.--=-


Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


,tor J a . :k, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


After you’ve put the compact spare tire on your vehicle, you’ll need to store the flat tire in your trunk. Store the flat tire as far forward in the trunk as possible. Store the jack and wheel wrench in their compartment in the trunk. For storage, the jack must be raised until the screw end is flush with the edge of the jack.


The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-87. See the storing instructions label to return your compact spare tire into your trunk properly.


5-80


/


. B


E I


A. Wrench B. Jack C. Jack Container D. Retainer E. Compact Spare Tire Cover F. Retainer Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when yuul vehicle was iievi, it mi7 lose air after a tine. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa).


. .^ . . I


After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km)~ so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. You must: calibrate the Check Tire Pressure System after installing or removing the compact spare. See Check Tire Pressure System on page 5-64. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again. Notice: When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehic!e through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with ether t!!hee!s spare tire and its wheel together. Nofice: Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.


?irks. The;/ w ~ n ’ t fit. Kppp y n c I r Cnmrpct


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Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:


Gasoline Benzene Naphtha Carbon Tetrachloride Acetone Paint Thinner Turpentine Lacquer Thinner Nail Polish Remover


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They can all be hazardous - some more than others -and Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:


they can all damage your vehicle, too.


Alcohol Laundry Soap Bleach Reducing Agents


Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. FabridCarpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM - approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-88.


Here are some cleaning tips:


Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set. Carefully scrape off any excess stain. Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.


Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any


loose dirt.


2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask


surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.


3. Follow the directions on the container label.


5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a


sponge to remove any excess cleaner.


6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened


towel or cloth.


7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.


Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the


soiled area with cool water.


2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions


described earlier.


3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat


the area with a watedbaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.


4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry completely. 3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions


aescribea eariier.


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Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-88. Notice: Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.


Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth.


Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do this more than once. Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.


Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.


For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product. Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.


Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.


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Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.


Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.


Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent appiicaiiorl may ue required. See Fari E. %cur/////e/f&d Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-24. Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability.


Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-88. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle. wearwg tmtmur L ~ I I I ~ W L ~ I I S ~ S Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.”


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Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-88. If your vehicle has a “basecoatklearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoatklearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoatklearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.

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