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Maintenance


Maintenance In addition to proper inflation, correct wheel alignment helps to decrease tire wear. You should get your car's wheel alignment checked every 12 months or 15,000 miles (24,000 km).


The tires were properly balanced by the factory. They may need to be rebalanced at some time before they are worn out. Have your dealer check the tires if you feel a consistent vibration while driving. A tire should always be rebalanced if it is removed from the wheel for repair.


Make sure the installer balances the wheels when you have new tires installed. This increases riding comfort and tire life. Your car's original tires were dynamic or "spin" balanced at the factory. For best results, have the installer perform a dynamic balance.


NOTICE Improper wheel weights can damage your car's aluminum wheels. Use only genuine Honda wheel weights for balancing.


Tire Rotation To help increase tire life and distribute wear more evenly, you should have the tires rotated every 7,500 miles (12,000 km). Move the tires to the positions shown in the chart each time they are rotated.


FRONT


FRONT


For Non-Directional Wheels


For Directional Wheels


Replacing Tires and Wheels The tires that came with your car were selected to match the per- formance capabilities of the car and provide the best combination of handling, ride comfort, and long life. You should replace them with radial tires of the same size, load range, and speed rating. Mix- ing radial and bias-ply or bias- belted tires on your car can reduce its braking ability, traction, and steering accuracy.


Installing improper tires on your car can affect handling and stability. This can cause a crash in which you can be seriously hurt or killed. Always use the size and type of tires recommended in this owner's manual.


It is best to replace all four tires at the same time. If that is not possible or necessary, then replace the two front tires or the two rear tires as a pair. Replacing just one tire can seriously affect your car's handling.


The ABS works by comparing the speed of the wheels. When replacing tires, use the same size originally supplied with the car. Tire size and construction can affect wheel speed and may cause the system to work inconsistently. If you ever need to replace a wheel, make sure the wheel's specifications match those of the original wheel that came on your car. Replacement wheels are available at your Honda dealer.


Tires


Wheels and Tires Wheel: U.S. EX


15 x 5 1/2 JJ (AL)


U.S. LX, Canada EX


15 x 5 1/2 JJ


Tire:


195/60 R15 88H


See Tire Information on page 176 for additional information about tire and wheel size designations. See page 177 for information about DOT Tire Quality Grading.


Winter Driving Tires that are marked "M + S" or "All Season" on the sidewall have an all-weather tread design. They should be suitable for most winter driving conditions. Tires


continued


Maintenance


Tires, Lights


without these markings are designed for optimum traction in dry conditions. They may not provide adequate performance in winter driving. For the best performance in snowy or icy conditions, you should install snow tires or tire chains. They may be required by local laws under certain conditions.


Snow Tires If you mount snow tires on your Honda, make sure they are radial tires of the same size and load range as the original tires. Mount snow tires on all four wheels to balance your car's handling in all weather conditions. Keep in mind the traction provided by snow tires on dry roads may not be as high as your car's original equipment tires. You should drive cautiously even when the roads are clear. Check with the


Maintenance


tire dealer for maximum speed recommendations.


as soon as you begin driving on cleared roads.


Tire Chains Mount snow chains on your car when warranted by driving conditions or required by local laws. Make sure the chains are the correct size for your tires. Install them only on the front tires. If metal chains are used, they must be SAE class "S." Cable-type traction devices can also be used.


When installing chains, follow the manufacturer's instructions and mount them as tightly as you can. Drive slowly with chains installed. If you hear the chains contacting the body or chassis, stop and tighten them. If they still make contact, slow down until it stops. Remove the chains


NOTICE Chains of the wrong size or that are improperly installed can damage your car's brake lines, suspension, body, and wheels. Stop driving if you hear the chains hitting any part of the car.


Lights Check the operation of your car's exterior lights at least once a month. A burned out bulb can create an unsafe condition by reducing your car's visibility and the ability to signal your intentions to other drivers.


Check the following:


Headlights (low and high beam)


Parking lights Taillights Brake lights High-mount brake light Turn signals Back-up lights Hazard light function License plate light Side marker lights Daytime running lights (Canada cars)


If you find any bulbs are burned out, replace them as soon as possible. Refer to the chart on page 175 to determine what type of replacement bulb is needed.


Replacing a Headlight Bulb Your car has halogen headlight bulbs, two on each side. When replacing a bulb, handle it by its


steel base, and protect the glass from contact with your skin or hard objects. If you touch the glass, clean it with denatured alcohol and a clean cloth.


NOTICE


Halogen headlight bulbs get very hot when lit. Oil, perspiration, or a scratch on the glass can cause the bulb to overheat and shatter.


1. Open the hood. If you need to change the headlight bulb on the passenger's side, remove the radiator reserve tank and the intake air tube.


2. Remove the electrical


connector from the bulb by squeezing the connector to unlock the tab while you push down on the connector.


Lights


BULB


TAB


3. Remove the bulb by turning


4.


it one-quarter turn counterclockwise. Insert the new bulb into the hole, and turn the bulb in one-quarter turn clockwise.


5. Push the electrical connector


back onto the bulb. Make sure it is on all the way.


6. Turn on the headlights to test


the new bulb.


continued


Maintenance


Lights


7. (Passenger's side)


Reinstall the radiator reserve tank and the intake air tube.


Replacing a Front Turn Signal Light Bulb 1. Use a long-handled, #2
Phillips screwdriver to loosen the turn signal assembly mounting screw.


Maintenance


6. Test the turn signals to make sure the new bulb is working. 7. Put the turn signal assembly into the bumper. Make sure the tabs on the turn signal assembly fit into the bumper slots. Tighten the mounting screw.


Replacing Front Side Marker and Parking Light Bulbs 1. Use a Phillips screwdriver to


remove the screw from the top of the fender.


SCREW


2. Remove the turn signal


assembly from the bumper.


3. Remove the bulb holder from


the turn signal assembly by turning it counterclockwise.


TURN SIGNAL ASSEMBLY


BULB


BULB HOLDER


4. Remove the burned out bulb from the socket by pushing it in and turning counterclockwise until it unlocks. Install the new bulb. 5. Push the bulb holder into the


turn signal assembly, and turn it clockwise until it locks.


2. Move the side marker light


assembly forward until it pops out of the body. 3. Turn the bulb holder


one-quarter turn counterclockwise to remove it from the lens.


4. Pull the bulb straight out of


its socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


5. Put the bulb holder back into


its hole in the lens, and turn it clockwise until it locks.


6. Turn on the parking lights,


and check that the new bulb is working.


7. Put the side marker assembly


back into the body. Push on the front edge until it snaps into place. Install the mounting screw, and tighten it securely.


Replacing Rear Bulbs 1. Open the tailgate, and


remove the taillight assembly cover.


2. Pull the taillight assembly out


of the body.


3. To open the tabs on the


taillight assembly, push in on the tab and lift it up. (You may use a flat-tip screwdriver


Lights


to gently pry it open.) Remove the screws under each tab. Then, slide the taillight assembly diagonally out.


4. Determine which of the three


bulbs is burned out: tail/ stoplight, back-up light, or turn signal. Remove that bulb by turning it one-quarter turn


continued


Maintenance


Lights


counterclockwise and pulling it out of the socket.


5.


Install the new bulb in the socket.


6. Reinstall the bulb holder assembly by lining up the bulbs with their holes in the lens assembly; then turn the assembly one-quarter turn clockwise to lock it in place. 7. Test the lights to make sure


the new bulb is working.


Maintenance


2. Use a thin, flat blade to


wedge the fastener's head out. When both fasteners are out, remove the high-mount brake light cover.


3. Remove the socket by


turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


8. When reinstalling the taillight


assembly, align and pop the snap fasteners in place. Install and then tighten the screws. Lock the tabs in place.


Replacing a High-Mount Brake Light Bulb 1. Open the tailgate. Undo the two fasteners on the side of the cover by pushing on the center of each fastener's head until the center pops in.


Push.


4. Pull the bulb out of its


socket. Push the new bulb into the socket.


5. Test the brake light to make


sure the new bulb is working.


6. Reinstall the cover. 7. Reset the center section of the fastener through the fastener's head. Make sure that the fingers on the fastener are folded and flush to the fastener and that the center section protrudes beyond the head.


8. Install each reset fastener


into the cover. Secure each fastener by pushing on the center until it locks (the center is flush with the head).


Replacing a Rear License Bulb 1. Open the tailgate. Remove the assembly cover and the bulb assembly.


BULB


2. Remove the socket from the light assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


Lights


3. Pull the bulb straight out of


4.


the socket. Install the new bulb in the socket.


5. Turn on the parking lights,


and check that the new bulb is working.


6. Reinstall the socket. Turn it


clockwise until it locks.


Replacing Bulbs in the Interior Courtesy Lights The courtesy lights in the doors and roof come apart in the same way. They do not use the same bulb.


continued


Maintenance


Lights


1. Remove the lens by carefully prying on the edge of the lens with a fingernail file or a small flat-tip screwdriver. Do not pry on the edge of the housing around the lens.


Door Light: Pry on the top middle of the lens.


DOOR LIGHT


Maintenance


Interior/Cargo Light: Pry on the front edge of the lens in the middle.


INTERIOR LIGHT/CARGO LIGHT


SUN VISOR


2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.


3. Push the new bulb into the


metal tabs. Snap the lens back in place.


If you need to park your car for an extended period (more than one month), you should do several things to prepare it for storage. Proper preparation helps prevent deterioration and makes it easier to get your car back on the road. If possible, store your car indoors.


Fill the fuel tank. Change the engine oil and filter (see page 115). Wash and dry the exterior completely. Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry. Leave the parking brake off. Put the transmission in Reverse (5-speed manual) or Park (automatic). Block the rear wheels.


If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jackstands so the tires are off the ground. Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors). Disconnect the battery. Cover the car with a "breathable" car cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton. Nonporous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture, which can damage the paint. If possible, periodically run the engine for a while (preferably once a month). Support the front and rear wiper blade arms with a folded towel or rag so they do not touch the windshield.


Storing Your Car


To minimize the seal sticking, apply a silicone spray lubricant to all door and trunk seals. Also, apply a car body wax to the painted surfaces that mate with the door and trunk seals.


If you store your car for 12
months or longer, have your Honda dealer perform the inspections called for in the 24
months/30,000 miles (48,000 km) maintenance schedule as soon as you take it out of storage (see pages 106 — 109). The replacements called for in the maintenance schedule are not needed unless the car has actually reached that time or mileage.


Maintenance


Regular cleaning and polishing of your Honda helps to keep it "new" looking. This section gives you hints on how to clean your car and preserve it's appearance: the paint, brightwork, wheels, and interior. Also included are several things you can do to help prevent corrosion.


Appearance Care


Interior Care


Exterior Care . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 146
Washing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 146
Power Antenna Cleaning . 146
Waxing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 147
. . . . . .. 147
Aluminum Wheels Touch-Up P a i n t . . . . . . . . .. 147
. . . . . . . . . . . . .. 148
Carpeting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 148
Fabric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 148
Vinyl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 148
Seat Belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 148
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 149
Windows Air Fresheners . . . . . . . . .. 149
Corrosion Protection . . . . . .. 149
Body Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 150


Appearance Care


Exterior Care


Washing Frequent washing helps preserve your car's beauty. Dirt and grit can scratch the paint, while tree sap and bird droppings can permanently ruin the finish.


Wash your car in a shady area, not in direct sunlight. If the car is parked in the sun, move it into the shade and let the exterior cool down before you start.


NOTICE Chemical solvents and strong cleaners can damage the paint, metal and plastic on your car.


Rinse the car thoroughly with cool water to remove loose dirt. Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild detergent, such as dishwashing liquid or a


Appearance Care


product made especially for car washing. Wash the car, using the water and detergent solution and a soft-bristle brush, sponge, or soft cloth. Start at the top and work your way down. Rinse frequently. Check the body for road tar, tree sap, etc. Remove these stains with tar remover or turpentine. Rinse it off immediately so it does not harm the finish. Remember to rewax these areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing. When you have washed and rinsed the whole exterior, dry it with a chamois or soft towel. Letting it air-dry will cause dulling and water spots.


As you dry the car, inspect it for chips and scratches that could allow corrosion to start. Repair them with touch-up paint (see page 147).


Power Antenna Cleaning Every time you wash your car, clean the antenna mast with a dry cloth and mild detergent. Scrub the antenna in upward strokes to avoid bending it.


Make sure the antenna works smoothly by turning the stereo off and on several times with the ignition switch ON (II). The antenna does not need lubricating. If you use a "drive-through" car wash, make sure you turn the stereo off first. This retracts the antenna to prevent damage from the brushes in the car wash.


Waxing Always wash and dry the whole car before waxing it. You should wax your car, including the metal trim, whenever water sits on the surface in large patches. It should form into beads or droplets after waxing.


You should use a quality liquid or paste wax. Apply it according to the instructions on the container. In general, there are two types of products:


Waxes - A wax coats the finish and protects it from damage by exposure to sunlight, air pollution, etc. You should use a wax on your Honda when it is new.


contain mild abrasives and solvents that remove the top layer of the finish. You should use a polish on your Honda if the finish does not have its original shine after using a wax.


Cleaning tar, insects, etc. with removers also takes off the wax. Remember to rewax those areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.


Aluminum Wheels U.S. EX models Clean your Honda's aluminum alloy wheels as you do the rest of the exterior. Wash them with the same solution, and rinse them thoroughly.


Polishes - Polishes and cleaner/ waxes can restore the shine to paint that has oxidized and lost some of its shine. They normally


The wheels have a protective clear-coat that keeps the aluminum from corroding and tarnishing. Using harsh


Exterior Care


chemicals, including some commercial wheel cleaners or stiff brushes can damage this clear-coat. Only use a mild detergent and soft brush or sponge to clean the wheels.


Touch-Up Paint Your dealer has touch-up paint to match your car's color. The color code is printed on a sticker on the driver's doorjamb. Take this code to your dealer so you are sure to get the correct color.


TOUCH-UP PAINT


continued


Appearance Care


Exterior Care, Interior Care


Inspect your car for chips or scratches in the paint frequently. Repair them right away to prevent corrosion of the metal underneath. Use the touch-up paint on small chips and scratches. More extensive damage should be repaired by a professional.


Examine the chip or scratch closely before repairing it. If it does not go down to bare metal, clean it with soap and water and apply the touch-up paint. If it does go to the metal, apply a coat of primer first. After this dries, apply the touch-up paint. Build up the paint in the damaged area to the level of the surrounding paint. Several thin coats of paint are better than one thick coat.


Appearance Care


Carpeting Vacuum the carpeting frequently to remove dirt. Ground-in dirt will make the carpet wear out faster. Periodically shampoo the carpet to keep it looking new. Use one of the foam-type carpet cleaners on the market: Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner, applying it with a sponge or soft brush. Keep the carpeting as dry as possible by not adding water to the foam.


Fabric Vacuum dirt and dust out of the material frequently. For general cleaning, use a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water, letting it air dry. To clean off stubborn spots, use a commercially available fabric cleaner. Test it on a hidden area of the fabric first, to make sure it does not


bleach or stain the fabric. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner.


Vinyl Remove dirt and dust with a vacuum cleaner. Wipe the vinyl with a soft cloth dampened in a solution of mild soap and water. Use the same solution with a soft-bristle brush on more difficult spots. You can also use commercially available spray or foam-type vinyl cleaners.


Seat Belts If your seat belts get dirty, you can use a soft brush to clean them with a mixture of mild soap and warm water. Do not use bleach, dye, or cleaning solvents. They can weaken the belt


material. Let the belts air-dry before you use the car.


METAL LOOP


Dirt buildup in the metal loops of the seat belt anchors can cause the belts to retract slowly. Wipe the insides of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in mild soap and warm water or isopropyl alcohol.


Windows Clean the windows, inside and out, with a commercially


Interior Care, Corrosion Protection


available glass cleaner. You can also use a mixture of one part white vinegar to ten parts water. This will remove the haze that builds up on the inside of the windows. Use a soft cloth or paper towels to clean all glass and clear plastic surfaces.


NOTICE The rear window defogger wires are bonded to the inside of the glass. Wiping vigorously up and down can dislodge and break the defogger wires. When cleaning the rear window, use gentle pressure and wipe side to side.


Air Fresheners If you want to use an air freshener/deodorizer in the interior of your Accord, you should use a solid type. Some liquid air fresheners contain


chemicals that may cause parts of the interior trim and fabric to crack or discolor.


If you use a liquid air freshener, make sure you fasten it securely so it does not spill as you drive.


Corrosion Protection Two factors normally contribute to causing corrosion in your car: 1. Moisture trapped in body cavities. Dirt and road salt that collects in hollows on the underside of the car stays damp, promoting corrosion in that area.


2. Removal of paint and


protective coatings from the exterior and underside of the car.


Many corrosion-preventive measures are built into your


continued


Appearance Care


with other available parts. You should investigate this before any repairs are begun.


Take your car to your authorized Honda dealer for inspection after the repairs are completed. He can make sure that quality materials were used and that corrosion-preventive coatings were applied to all repaired and replaced parts.


Corrosion Protection, Body Repairs


Honda. You can help keep your car from corroding by performing some simple periodic maintenance:


Repair chips and scratches in the paint as soon as you discover them. Inspect and clean out the drain holes in the bottom of the doors and body. Check the floor coverings for dampness. Carpeting and floor mats may remain damp for a long time, especially in winter. This dampness can eventually cause the floor panels to corrode. Have the corrosion-preventive coatings on the underside of your car inspected and repaired periodically.


Appearance Care


Body Repairs Body repairs Can affect your car's resistance to corrosion. If your car needs repairs after a collision, pay close attention to the parts used in the repair and the quality of the work.


Make sure the repair facility uses genuine Honda replacement body parts. Some companies make sheet metal pieces that seem to duplicate the original Honda body parts, but are actually inferior in fit, finish, and corrosion resistance. Once installed, they do not give the same high-quality appearance.


When reporting your collision to the insurance company, tell them you want genuine Honda parts used in the repair. Although most insurers recognize the quality of original parts, some may try to specify that the repairs be done


Taking Care of the Unexpected


This section covers the more common problems that motorists experience with their cars. It gives you information about how to safely evaluate the problem and what to do to correct it. If the problem has stranded you on the side of the road, you may be able to get going again. If not, you will also find instructions on getting your car towed.


Changing a Flat Tire . . . . . . .. 152
If Your Engine Won't Start . .. 156


Nothing Happens or the Starter Motor Operates Very Slowly . . . . . . . . . . .. 156


The Starter Operates


Normally . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 157
Jump Starting . . . . . . . . . . . .. 158
If Your Engine Overheats . . .. 159
Low Oil Pressure Indicator .. 162
Charging System Indicator ...162
Malfunction Indicator Lamp


(Check Engine Light) . . . . .. 163
Closing the Moonroof . . . . .. 164
Fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 165
Checking and Replacing .. 165
Towing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 170


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Changing a Flat Tire


If you have a flat tire while driving, stop in a safe place to change it. Stopping in traffic or on the shoulder of a busy road is dangerous. Drive slowly along the shoulder until you get to an exit or an area to stop that is far away from the traffic lanes.


The car can easily roll off the jack, seriously injuring anyone underneath.


Follow the directions for changing a tire exactly, and never get under the car when it is supported only by the jack.


1. Park the car on firm, level ground away from traffic. Turn on the hazard warning


Taking Care of the Unexpected


4. Take the tool kit out of the


cargo area.


5. Unscrew the wing bolt, and


take the spare tire out of its well.


lights, and turn the ignition to LOCK (0).


2. Put the transmission in Park


(automatic) or Reverse (5-speed). Set the parking brake. Have all of the passengers get out of the car when you change the tire.


3. Open the tailgate. Raise the cargo area floor by lifting up on the back edge. Attach the hook to the roof line.


6. Turn the end bracket on the


jack counterclockwise to loosen it, and then remove the jack.


Changing a Flat Tire


7. U.S. EX models


Remove the center cap from the wheel with a screwdriver (not included in tool kit) or coin.


CENTER CAP


8. Loosen the four wheel nuts one-half turn with the wheel wrench.


point. Make sure the jacking point tab is resting in the jack notch.


WHEEL NUTS


JACKING POINT


SCREWDRIVER


9. Locate the jacking point


nearest the tire you need to change. It is pointed to by an arrow molded into the underside of the body. Place the jack under the jacking point. Turn the end bracket clockwise until the top of the jack contacts the jacking


continued


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Changing a Flat Tire


10. Use the extension and wheel wrench as shown to raise the car until the flat tire is off the ground.


EXTENSION


the wheel face down could mar the wheel's finish.


WHEEL WRENCH


11. Remove the wheel nuts and


flat tire. Temporarily place the flat tire on the ground with the outside surface of the wheel facing up. Putting


12. Before mounting the spare


tire, wipe any dirt Off the mounting surface of the wheel and hub with a clean cloth.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


BRAKE HUB


13. Put on the spare tire. Put the


wheel nuts back on finger- tight, and tighten them in a crisscross pattern with the wheel wrench until the wheel is firmly against the hub. Do not try to tighten them fully.


14. Lower the car to the ground,


and remove the jack.


Changing a Flat Tire


15. Tighten the wheel nuts


securely in the same crisscross pattern. Have the wheel nut torque checked at the nearest automotive service facility. Tighten the wheel nuts to 110 N.m (11 kg-m, 80 lb-ft).


16. Remove the wheel cover or


center cap. Place the flat tire face down in the spare tire well.


continued


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Changing a Flat Tire, If Your Engine Won't Start


17. Remove the spacer cone from the wing bolt, turn it over, and put it back on the bolt.


18. Secure the flat tire by


screwing the wing bolt back into its hole.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Loose items can fly around the interior in a crash and could seriously injure the occupants.


Store the wheel, jack and tools securely before driving.


19. Store the jack in the cargo


area with the end bracket on the right side. Turn the end bracket on the jack clockwise to lock it in place. Store the tool kit.


20. Store the wheel cover or


center cap in the trunk. Make sure it does not get scratched or damaged.


If Your Engine Won't Start Diagnosing why your engine won't start falls into two areas,


depending on what you hear when you turn the key to START (III):


You hear nothing, or almost nothing. The engine's starter motor does not operate at all, or operates very slowly. You can hear the starter motor operating normally, but the engine does not start up and run.


Nothing Happens or the Starter Motor Operates Very Slowly When you turn the ignition switch to START (III), you do not hear the normal noise of the engine trying to start. You may hear a clicking sound or series of clicks, or nothing at all. Check these things:


Check the transmission interlock. If you have a 5-speed, the clutch pedal must be pushed all the way to the floor or the starter will not operate. With an automatic transmission, it must be in Park or Neutral. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the headlights and check their brightness. If the headlights are very dim or don't light at all, the battery is discharged. See Jump Starting.


Turn the ignition switch to START (III). If the headlights do not dim, check the condition of the fuses. If the fuses are OK, there is probably something wrong with the electrical circuit for the ignition switch or starter motor. You will need a qualified technician to determine the problem. See Towing on page 170.


If the headlights dim noticeably or go out when you try to start the engine, either the battery is discharged or the connections are corroded. Check the condition of the battery and terminal connections (see page 129). You can then try jump starting the car from a booster battery (see page 158).


If Your Engine Won't Start


The Starter Operates Normally In this case, the starter motor sounds normal when you turn the ignition switch to START (III), but the engine does not run.


Are you using the proper starting procedure? Refer to Starting the Engine on page 88. Do you have fuel? Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) for a minute, and watch the fuel gauge. There may be an electrical problem, such as no power to the fuel pump. Check all the fuses (see page 165).


If you find nothing wrong, you will need a qualified technician to find the problem. See Towing on page 170.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


3. Connect one jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the positive (+) terminal on your Honda's battery.


Jump Starting


If your car's battery has run down, you may be able to start the engine by using a booster battery. Although this seems like a simple procedure, you should take several precautions.


A battery can explode if you do not follow the correct procedure, seriously injuring anyone nearby. Keep all sparks, open flames, and smoking materials away from the battery.


You cannot start a Honda with an automatic transmission by pushing or pulling it.


To jump start your car follow these directions closely:


Taking Care of the Unexpected


1. Open the hood and check the


physical condition of the battery (see page 127). In very cold weather, check the condition of the electrolyte. If it seems slushy or like ice, do not try jump starting until it thaws.


NOTICE


If a battery sits in extreme cold, the electrolyte inside can freeze. Attempting to jump start with a frozen battery can cause it to rupture or explode.


2. Turn off all the electrical accessories: heater, A/C, stereo system, lights, etc. Put the transmission in Neutral or Park, and set the parking brake.


Jump Starting, If Your Engine Overheats


4. Connect the second jumper


cable to the negative (—) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the grounding strap as shown. Do not connect this jumper cable to any other part of the engine.


6. Start your car. If the starter motor still operates slowly, check the jumper cable connections to make sure they have good metal-to-metal contact.


CHARGED VEHICLE (BOOSTER BATTERY)


DISCHARGED VEHICLE (DEAD BATTERY)


5.


If the booster battery is in another car, have an assistant start that car and run it at a fast idle.


7. Once your car is running,


disconnect the negative cable from your car and then from the booster battery. Disconnect the positive cable from your car and then from the booster battery.


If Your Engine Overheats The pointer of your car's temperature gauge should stay in the midrange under most conditions. It may go higher if you are driving up a long steep hill on a very hot day. If it climbs to the red mark, you should determine the reason.


NOTICE Driving with the temperature gauge pointer at the red mark can cause serious damage to your engine.


continued


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If Your Engine Overheats


Your car can overheat for several reasons, such as lack of coolant or a mechanical problem. The only indication may be the temperature gauge climbing to or above the red mark. Or you may see steam or spray coming from under the hood. In either case, you should take immediate action.


Steam and spray from an overheated engine can seriously scald you.


Do not open the hood if steam is coming out.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


1. Safely pull to the side of the


2.


3.


road. Put the transmission in Neutral or Park, and set the parking brake. Turn off the heating and cooling system and all other accessories. Turn on the hazard warning indicators. If you see steam and/or spray coming from under the hood, turn off the engine. If you do not see steam or spray, leave the engine running and watch the temperature gauge. If the high heat is due to overloading (climbing a long, steep hill on a hot day with the A/C running, for example), the engine should start to cool down almost immediately. If it does, wait until the temperature gauge comes down to the midpoint, and then continue driving.


4. If the temperature gauge


stays at the red mark, turn off the engine.


5. Wait until you see no more


signs of steam or spray; then open the hood.


6. Look for any obvious


coolant leaks, such as a split radiator hose. Everything is still extremely hot, so use caution. If you find a leak, it must be repaired before you continue driving (see Towing on page 170).


7. If you don't find an obvious leak, check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank (see page 83). If the level is below the MIN mark, add coolant to halfway between the MIN and MAX marks.


8.


If you see no coolant in the reserve tank, you may also have to add coolant to the radiator. Let the engine cool down until the pointer reaches the middle of the temperature gauge, or lower, before checking the radiator.


Removing the radiator cap while the engine is hot can cause the coolant to spray out, seriously scalding you.


Always let the engine and radiator cool down before removing the radiator cap.


9. Using gloves or a large heavy


cloth, turn the radiator cap counterclockwise, without


If Your Engine Overheats


pushing down, to the first stop. This releases any remaining pressure in the cooling system. After the pressure releases, push down on the cap and turn it until it comes off.


12. If the temperature stays


normal, check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank. If it has gone down, add coolant to the MAX mark. Put the cap back on tightly.


10. Start the engine and set the


heater control lever to maximum. Add coolant to the radiator up to the base of the fill neck. If you do not have the proper coolant mixture available, you can add plain water. Remember to have the cooling system drained and refilled with the proper mixture as soon as you can. 11. Put the radiator cap back on


tightly. Run the engine and watch the temperature gauge. If it goes back to the red mark, the engine needs repair. (See Towing on page 170.)


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Low Oil Pressure Indicator, Charging System Indicator


Low Oil Pressure Indicator


LOW OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR


2. Let the car sit for a minute.


Open the hood and check the oil level (see page 82), Although oil level and oil pressure are not directly connected, an engine that is very low on oil can lose pressure during cornering and other driving maneuvers. If necessary, add oil to bring the level back to the full mark on the dipstick (see page 114).


3.


4. Start the engine and watch the oil pressure indicator. If the indicator does not go out within 10 seconds, turn off the engine. You need to have the mechanical problem repaired before you can continue driving. (See Towing on page 170.)


NOTICE Running the engine with low oil pressure can cause serious mechanical damage almost immediately. Turn off the engine as soon as you can safely get the car stopped.


1. Safely pull off the road and


shut off the engine.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Charging System Indicator This light indicates the battery is not being charged. It should come on when the ignition is ON (II), and go out after the engine starts. If it comes on brightly with the engine running, the alternator is no longer charging the battery.


CHARGING SYSTEM INDICATOR


Immediately turn off all electrical accessories: radio, heater, A/C, rear defogger, cruise control, etc.


Charging System Indicator, Malfunction Indicator Lamp


Try not to use other electrically operated controls such as the power windows. Keep the engine running and take extra care not to stall it. Starting the engine will discharge the battery rapidly.


By eliminating as much of the electrical load as possible, you can drive several miles before the battery is too discharged to keep the engine running. Drive to a service station or garage where you can get technical assistance.


Malfunction Indicator Lamp This indicator comes on for a few seconds when you turn the switch ON (II). If it comes on at any other time, it indicates one of the engine's emissions control systems may have a problem. Even though you may feel no difference in your car's performance, it can reduce your


fuel economy and cause your car to put out excessive emissions. Continued operation may cause serious damage.


U.S. INDICATOR SHOWN


MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP/ CHECK ENGINE LIGHT


If this indicator comes on, safely pull off the road and turn off the engine. Restart the engine and watch the indicator. If it stays on, have your car checked by the dealer as soon as possible. Drive moderately until the dealer has inspected the problem. Avoid


full-throttle acceleration and driving at high speed.


You should also have the dealer inspect your car if the indicator comes on frequently, even though it goes off when you follow the above procedure.


NOTICE If you keep driving with the malfunction indicator lamp/check engine light on, you can damage your car's emission controls and engine. Those repairs may not be covered by your car's warranties.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Closing the Moonroof


If the electric motor will not close the moonroof, do the following: 1. Check the fuse for the moonroof motor (see page 165). If the fuse is blown, replace it with one of the same or lower rating.


2. Try closing the moonroof. If


the new fuse blows immediately or the moonroof motor still does not operate, you can close the moonroof manually.


3. Get the tool out of the tool kit located under the cargo area floor.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


4. Use a screwdriver or coin to


remove the round plug in the center of the headliner.


5. Insert the moonroof wrench


into the socket behind this plug. Turn the wrench until the moonroof is fully closed.


ROUND PLUG


SOCKET


6. Remove the wrench. Replace


the round plug.


Fuses


Only cars equipped with ABS have an ABS fuse box. It is in the front of the engine compartment on the passenger's side.


The interior fuse box is underneath the dashboard on the driver's side. To open, turn the knob.


ABS FUSE BOX


Fuses All the electrical circuits in your car have fuses to protect them from a short circuit or overload. These fuses are located in two or three fuse boxes.


The under-hood fuse box is located in the front of the engine compartment on the passenger's side. To open, push the tab as shown.


UNDER-HOOD


TAB


INTERIOR


KNOB


Checking and Replacing If something electrical in your car stops working, the first thing you should check for is a blown fuse. Determine from the chart on the fuse box cover or inside the fuse box which fuse or fuses control that component. Check


continued


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Fuses


those fuses first, but check all the fuses before deciding that a blown fuse is not the cause. Replace any blown fuses, and check the component's operation. 1. Turn the ignition switch to


LOCK (0). Make sure the headlights and all other accessories are off.


2. Remove the cover from the


fuse box.


3. Check each of the large fuses


in the under-hood fuse box by looking through the top at the wire inside. Removing these fuses requires a Phillips screwdriver.


BLOWN


Taking Care of the Unexpected


4. Check the smaller fuses in the


under-hood fuse box and all the fuses in the interior fuse box by pulling out each fuse with the fuse puller provided in the interior fuse box.


5. Look for a burned wire inside


the fuse. If it is burned out, replace it with one of the spare fuses of the same rating or lower.


BLOWN


If you cannot drive the car without fixing the problem, and you do not have a spare fuse, take a fuse of the same rating or a lower rating from one of the other circuits. Make sure you can do without that circuit


6.


If the replacement fuse of the same rating burns out in a short time, your car probably has a serious electrical problem. Leave the burned- out fuse in that circuit, and have your car checked by a qualified technician.


temporarily (such as the cigarette lighter or radio).


If you replace the burned out fuse with a spare fuse that has a lower rating, it might blow out again. This does not indicate anything wrong. Replace the fuse with one of the correct rating as soon as you can.


NOTICE Replacing a fuse with one that has a higher rating greatly increases the chances of damaging the electrical system. If you do not have a replacement fuse with the proper rating for the circuit, install one with a lower rating.


Fuses


continued


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Fuses


UNDERHOOD FUSE BOX


Taking Care of the Unexpected


*1 On Canadian cars *2 U.S.: EX


ABS FUSE BOX


INTERIOR FUSE BOX


Fuses


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Towing


If your car needs to be towed, call a professional towing service or, if you belong to one, an organization that provides roadside assistance. Never tow your car behind another car with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous.


Emergency Towing There are three popular methods of towing a car:


Flatbed Equipment — The operator loads your car on the back of a truck. This is the best way of transporting your Honda.


Wheel Lift Equipment — The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear) and lift them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on the ground.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Sling-Type Equipment — The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension, and the cables lift that end of the car off the ground. Your car's suspension and body can be seriously damaged if this method of towing is attempted. If your Honda cannot be trans- ported on a flatbed truck, it should be towed with the front wheels off the ground. If, due to damage, your car must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, do the following: 5-Speed Manual Transmission Release the parking brake. Shift the transmission to Neutral.


Automatic Transmission


Release the parking brake. Start the engine.


Shift to D4, then to N. Turn off the engine.


NOTICE Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine (automatic transmission), your car must be transported on a flatbed.


It is best to tow the car no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55 km/h).


NOTICE


Trying to lift or tow your car by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not designed to support the car's weight.


The diagrams in this section give you the dimensions and capacities of your Honda and the locations of the identification numbers. The explanations of several electronic and mechanical systems on your Honda are for the more technically oriented owner.


Identification Numbers . . . .. 1 72
. . . . . . . . . . . .. 1 74
Specifications Tire Information . . . . . . . . . .. 1 76
Tire Size Designation . . . .. 176
Wheel Size Designation......176
Tire Speed Ratings . . . . . .. 176
Tire Pressure Adjustment


for High Speed Driving .. 176


DOT Tire Quality Grading


(U.S. Cars) . . . . . . . . . . . .. 177
. . . . . . . . . .. 1 77
Treadwear . . . . . . . . . . . .. 1 77
Traction . . . . . . . .. 1 78
Temperature Emissions Controls . . . . . . . .. 1 78
The Clean Air Act . . . . . . .. 1 78


Crankcase Emissions Control System . . . . .. 1 79


Evaporative Emissions


Control System . . . . .. 1 78


Technical Information


Exhaust Emissions


Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 1 79
PGM-FI System . . . . . . .. 1 79
Ignition Timing


Control System . . . . .. 1 79


Three-Way Catalytic


Converter . . . . . . . . ..


Exhaust Gas


Recirculation (EGR) System


. . . . . . . . . . . .. 180
Replacement Parts . . .. 180


1 79


Three-Way Catalytic


Converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 180


Tehnical Information


Identification Numbers


Your car has several identifying numbers located in various places.


The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is the 17-digit number your Honda dealer uses to register your car for warranty purposes. It is also necessary for licensing and insuring your car.


The easiest place to find the VIN is on a plate fastened to the top of the dashboard. You can see it by looking through the windshield on the driver's side. It is also on the Certification Label attached to the driver's doorjamb, and it is stamped on the engine compartment bulkhead. The VIN is also provided in bar code on the Certification Label.


Technical Information


VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER


CERTIFICATION LABEL


Identification Numbers


MANUAL TRANSMISSION NUMBER


The Engine Number is stamped into the engine block.


The Transmission Number is on a label on top of the transmission.


AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION NUMBER


ENGINE NUMBER


Tehnical Information


Specifications


*1 U.S.: LX, Canada EX *2 U.S.: EX, EX w/ABS option


page 126.


Technical Information


*1 Including the coolant in the reserve tank and that remaining in the engine. Reserve tank capacity: 0.6 U.S. qt. (.06 0.13 Imp gal.) *2 U.S.: LX, Canada EX *3 U.S.: EX *4 Excluding the oil remaining in the engine.


Specifications


*1 U.S. :LX, Canada EX *2 U.S.: EX


Technical Information


Tire Information


Tire Size Designation A tire's sidewall is marked with a tire size designation. You will need this information when selecting replacement tires for your car. The following explains what the letters and numbers in the tire size designation mean.


Example tire size designation: 195/60R15 88H 195 — Tire width in millimeters. 60 — Aspect ratio. The tire's section height as a percentage of its width. R —Tire construction code (Radial). 15 — Rim diameter in inches. 88 — Load Index, a numerical code associated with the maximum load the tire can carry.


Technical Information


H — Speed Rating Symbol. See the speed rating chart in this section for additional information.


Wheel Size Designation Wheels are also marked with important information that you need if you ever have to replace one. The following explains what the letters and numbers in the wheel size designation mean.


Example wheel size designation: 15 X 51/2 JJ 15 — Rim diameter in inches. 51/2 — Rim width in inches. JJ — Rim contour designation.


Tire Speed Ratings The chart shows many of the different speed ratings currently being used for passenger car


tires. The speed rating symbol is part of the tire size designation on the sidewall of the tire. This symbol corresponds to that tire's designed maximum safe operating speed.


Tire Pressure Adjustment for High Speed Driving Honda strongly recommends that you not drive faster than posted speed limits and


conditions allow. If you decide it is safe to drive at high speeds, be sure to adjust the cold tire pressures as shown below. If you do not adjust the tire pressure, excessive heat can build up and cause sudden tire failure.


Be sure to readjust the pressure for normal driving speeds. You should wait until the tires are cold before adjusting the tire pressure (see page 132).


DOT Tire Quality Grading (US. Cars) The tires on your car meet all U.S. Federal Safety Requirements. All tires are also graded for treadwear, traction, and temperature performance according to Department of Transportation (DOT) standards. The following explains these gradings.


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one-and-one-half (1-1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of


Tire Information


their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate.


Traction The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.


Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straight ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.


Technical Information


Tire Information, Emissions Controls


Temperature The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.


Technical Information


Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


Emissions Controls The burning of gasoline in your car's engine produces several byproducts. Some of these are carbon monoxide (CO), oxides of nitrogen (NOx), and hydrocarbons (HC). Gasoline evaporating from the tank also produces hydrocarbons. Controlling the production of CO, NOx, and HC is important to the environment. Under certain conditions of sunlight and climate, NOx and HC react to form photochemical "smog."


Carbon monoxide does not contribute to smog Creation, but it is a poisonous gas.


The Clean Air Act The Clean Air Act* sets standards for automobile emissions. It also requires that automobile manufacturers explain to owners how their emissions controls work and what to do to maintain them. This section summarizes how the emissions controls work. Scheduled maintenance is on page 120.


* In Canada, Honda vehicles comply with the Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (CMVSS) for Emissions valid at the time they are manufactured.


Crankcase Emissions Control System Your car has a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System. This keeps gasses that build up in the engine's crankcase from going into the atmosphere. The PCV valve routes them from the crankcase back to the intake manifold. They are then drawn into the engine and burned.


Evaporative Emissions Control System As fuel evaporates in the fuel tank, an evaporative emissions control Canister filled with charcoal adsorbs the vapor. It is stored in this canister while the engine is off. After the engine is started and warmed up, the vapor is drawn into the engine and burned during driving.


Exhaust Emissions Controls The exhaust emissions controls include three systems: PGM-FI, ignition timing control, and three-way catalytic converter. These three systems work together to control the engine's combustion and minimize the amount of HC, CO, and NOx that comes out the tailpipe. The exhaust emissions control systems are separate from the crankcase and evaporative emissions control systems.


PGM-FI System The PGM-FI system uses a sequential multiport fuel injection. It has three sub-systems: air intake, engine control, and fuel control. The engine control module (ECM) uses various sensors to determine how much air is going into the engine. It then controls


Emissions Controls


how much fuel to inject under all operating conditions.


Ignition Timing Control System This system constantly adjusts the ignition timing, reducing the amount of HC, CO and NOx produced.


Three-Way Catalytic Converter The three-way catalytic converter is in the exhaust system. Through chemical reactions, it converts HC, CO, and NOx in the engine's exhaust to carbon dioxide (CO dinitrogen (N


), and water vapor.


),


Technical Information


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