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NOTICE


Whenever you have the air conditioning system serviced, make sure the service facility uses a refrigerant recycling system. This system captures the refrigerant for reuse. Releasing refrigerant into the atmosphere can damage the environment.


Maintenance


Drive Belts, Tires


Drive Belts


POWER STEERING BELT


ALTERNATOR BELT Check the condition of the two drive belts. Examine the edges of each belt for cracks or fraying. Check the tension of each belt by pushing on it with your thumb midway between the pulleys. The belts should have the following "play" or deflection.


Maintenance


Alternator belt: (On cars without A/C)


10.5 — 12.5 mm (0.41 — 0.49 in)


(On cars with A/C)


8.0 — 10.5 mm (0.31 — 0.41 in)


Power steering belt:


13.0 — 16.0 mm (0.51 — 0.63 in)


If you see signs of wear or looseness, have your dealer adjust or replace the belts.


Tires To safely operate your car, your tires must be the proper type and size, in good condition with adequate tread, and correctly inflated. The following pages give more detailed information on how and when to check air pressure, how to inspect your tires for damage and wear, and what to do when your tires need to be replaced.


Using tires that are excessively worn or improperly inflated can cause a crash in which you can be seriously hurt or killed.


Follow all instructions in this owner's manual regarding tire inflation and maintenance.


Inflation Keeping the tires properly inflated provides the best combination of handling, tread life and riding comfort. Underinflated tires wear unevenly, adversely affect handling and fuel economy, and are more likely to fail from being overheated. Overinflated tires can make your car ride more harshly, are more prone to damage from road hazards, and wear unevenly.


We recommend that you visually check your tires every day and use a gauge to measure the air pressure at least once a month. If you think a tire might be low, check it immediately. Remember to check the spare tire at the same time you check all the other tires.


Check the pressure in the tires when they are cold. This means the car has been parked for at least three hours. If you have to drive the car


before checking the tire pressure, the tires can still be considered "cold" if you drive less than 1.6 km (1 mile).


If you check the pressure when the tires are hot (the car has been driven several miles), you will see readings 30 to 40 kPa (0.3 to 0.4 kg/cm2, 4 to 6 psi) higher than the cold reading. This is normal. Do not let air out to match the specified cold pressure. The tire will be underinflated.


Recommended Tire Pressures for Normal Driving The following chart shows the recommended cold tire pressures for most normal driving conditions and speeds. Tire pressures for high speed driving are shown on page 222.


Tires


The compact spare tire pressure is: 420 kPa (4.2 kgf/cm2 , 60 psi)


The pressures are also given on the tire information label on the driver's doorjamb.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Tires


You should get your own tire pressure gauge and use it whenever you check your tire pressures. This will make it easier for you to tell if a pressure loss is due to a tire problem and not due to a variation between gauges.


Tubeless tires have some ability to self-seal if they are punctured. However, because leakage is often very slow, you should look closely for punctures if a tire starts losing pressure.


Inspection Every time you check inflation, you should also examine the tires for damage, foreign objects, and wear.


Maintenance


You should look for


Bumps or bulges in the tread or side of the tire. Replace the tire if you find either of these conditions.


Cuts, splits, or cracks in the side of the tire. Replace the tire if you can see fabric or tread.


Excessive tread wear.


INDICATOR LOCATION MARKS


Your car's tires have wear indicators molded into the tread. When the tread wears down to that point, you will see a 12.7 mm (1/2 inch) wide band running across the tread. This shows there is less than 1.6 mm (1/16 inch) of tread left on the tire. A tire that is this worn gives very little traction on wet roads. You should replace the tire if you can see the tread wear indicator in three or more places around the tire.


Maintenance In addition to proper inflation, correct wheel alignment helps to decrease tire wear. If you find a tire is worn unevenly, have your dealer check the wheel alignment


TREAD WEAR INDICATORS


The tires were properly balanced by the factory. They may need to be rebalanced at some time before they are worn out Have your dealer check the tires if you feel a consis- tent vibration while driving. A tire should always be rebalanced if it is removed from the wheel for repair.


Make sure the installer balances the wheels when you have new tires installed. This increases riding comfort and tire life. Your car's original tires were dynamic or "spin" balanced at the factory. For best results, have the installer perform a dynamic balance.


NOTICE


(On some models) Improper wheel weights can damage your car's aluminum wheels. Use only genuine Honda wheel weights for balancing.


Tire Rotation


Front


Front


(For Non- directional Tires and Wheels)


(For Directional Tires and Wheels)


To help increase tire life and distribute wear more evenly, you should have the tires rotated every 12,000 km (7,500 miles). Move the tires to the positions shown in the chart each time they are rotated.


Tires


When shopping for replacement tires, you may find that some tires are "directional." This means they are designed to rotate only in one direction. If you use directional tires, they should be rotated only front-to- back.


Replacing Tires and Wheels The tires that came with your car were selected to match the perform- ance capabilities of the car while providing the best combination of handling, ride comfort, and long life. You should replace them with radial tires of the same size, load range, speed rating, and maximum cold tire pressure rating (as shown on the tire's sidewall). Mixing radial and bias-ply tires on your car can reduce its braking ability, traction, and steering accuracy.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Tires


Installing improper tires on your car can affect handling and stability. This can cause a crash in which you can be seriously hurt or killed.


Always use the size and type of tires recommended in this owner's manual.


It is best to replace all four tires at the same time. If that is not possible or necessary, then replace the two front tires or the two rear tires as a pair. Replacing just one tire can seriously affect your car's handling.


The ABS works by comparing the speed of the wheels. When replacing tires, use the same size originally supplied with the car. Tire size and construction can affect wheel speed and may cause the system to work in- consistently.


Maintenance


If you ever need to replace a wheel, make sure the wheel's specifications match those of the original wheel that came on your car. Replacement wheels are available at your Honda dealer.


(U.S.: LX and EX, Canada: EX-R)


Wheels and Tires Wheel: (Canada: LX)


14x5J


15x51/2JJ


Tire: (U.S.: LX)


185/65R1588S


(Canada: LX)


P185/70R1487S


(U.S.: EX, Canada: EX-R)


195/60R15 88H


See Tire Information on page 221 for additional information about tire and wheel size designations. See page 222 for information about DOT Tire Quality Grading.


Winter Driving Tires that are marked " M + S" or "All Season" on the sidewall have an all-weather tread design. They should be suitable for most winter driving conditions. Tires without these markings are designed for optimum traction in dry conditions. They may not provide adequate performance in winter driving. For the best performance in snowy or icy conditions, you should install snow tires or tire chains. They may be required by local laws under certain conditions.


Snow Tires If you mount snow tires on your Honda, make sure they are radial tires of the same size and load range as the original tires. Mount snow tires on all four wheels to balance your car's handling in all weather conditions. Keep in mind the traction provided by snow tires on dry roads may not be as high as your car's original equipment tires. You should drive cautiously even when the roads are clear. Check with the tire dealer for maximum speed recommenda- tions.


Tires


Tire Chains Mount snow chains on your car when warranted by driving condi- tions or required by local laws. Make sure the chains are the correct size for your tires. Install them only on the front tires. If metal chains are used, they must be SAE class "S". Cable type traction devices can also be used.


When installing chains, follow the manufacturer's instructions and mount them as tightly as you can. Drive slowly with chains installed. If you hear the chains contacting the body or chassis, stop and tighten them. If they still make contact, slow down until it stops. Remove the chains as soon as you begin driving on cleared roads.


NOTICE


Chains of the wrong size or that are improperly installed can damage your car's brake lines, suspension, body, and wheels. Stop driving if you hear the chains hitting any part of the car.


Maintenance


If you find any bulbs are burned out, replace them as soon as possible. Refer to the chart on page 219 to determine what type of replacement bulb is needed.


Replacing a Headlight Bulb Your car has two bulbs on each side, four in total. Make sure you are replacing the bulb that is burned out. Your car uses halogen headlight bulbs. When replacing a bulb, handle it by its plastic case and protect the glass from contact with your skin or hard objects. If you touch the glass, clean it with denatured alcohol and a clean cloth.


Lights


Check the operation of your car's exterior lights at least once a month. A burned out bulb can create an unsafe condition by reducing your car's visibility and the ability to signal your intentions to other drivers. Check the following:


Headlights (low and high beam) Parking lights Taillights Brake lights High-mount brake light Turn signals Back-up lights Hazard light function License plate light Side marker lights Daytime running lights (Canadian cars)


Maintenance


NOTICE


Halogen headlight bulbs get very hot when lit. Oil, perspiration, or a scratch on the glass can cause the bulb to overheat and shatter.


Lights


BULB


4. Insert the new bulb into the hole and turn it one-quarter turn clock- wise.


TAB


1. Open the hood.


If you need to change a bulb on the passenger's side, remove the radiator reserve tank.


2. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by squeezing the connector to unlock the tab while you push down on the connector.


3. Remove the bulb by turning it one-


quarter turn counterclockwise.


5. Push the electrical connector back


onto the bulb. Make sure it is on all the way.


6. Turn on the headlights to test the


new bulb.


7. (Passenger's side)


Reinstall the radiator reserve tank.


Maintenance


Lights


Replacing a Front Turn Signal Light Bulb


6. Push the bulb holder into the turn


signal assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks.


7. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


8. Put the turn signal assembly into the bumper. Make sure the tabs on the turn signal assembly fit into the bumper slots. Tighten the mounting screw.


TURN SIGNAL ASSEMBLY


BULB


BULB HOLDER


1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the turn signal assembly's mounting screw.


3. Remove the bulb holder from the turn signal assembly by turning it counterclockwise.


2. Remove the turn signal assembly


from the bumper.


4. Remove the burned out bulb from the socket by pulling it straight out of its socket


5. Install the new bulb in the socket.


Maintenance


Replacing Front Side Marker and Parking Light Bulbs


SCREW


1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screw from the top of the fender.


3. Turn the bulb holder one-quarter


turn counterclockwise to remove it from the lens.


2. Move the side marker light


assembly forward until it pops out of the body.


4. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


Lights


5. Put the bulb holder back into its


hole in the lens, and turn it clockwise until it locks.


6. Turn on the parking lights and


check that the new bulb is working.


7. Put the side marker assembly


back into the body. Push on the front edge until it snaps into place. Install the mounting screw and tighten it securely.


Maintenance


Lights


Replacing Rear Bulbs (in Fenders)


KNOB


COVER


5. Install the new bulb in the socket.


6. Reinstall the socket into the light


assembly.


7. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


8. Reinstall the taillight assembly


cover.


1. Open the trunk and remove the


taillight cover by turning the knob.


3. Remove the socket by turning it


one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


2. Determine which of the two bulbs is burned out: tail/stoplight or turn signal.


4. Remove the burned out bulb from the socket by pulling it straight out of its socket


Maintenance


Replacing Rear Bulbs (in Trunk Lid)


1. Open the trunk.


2. Determine which of the two bulbs is burned out: taillight or back-up light.


3. Remove the socket by turning it


one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


4. Remove the burned out bulb from the socket by pulling it straight out of its socket


Lights


5. Install the new bulb in the socket.


6. Reinstall the socket into the light


assembly.


7. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


Maintenance


Lights


Replacing a Rear Side Marker Light Bulb


5. Insert the socket in the assembly. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


6. Reinstall the side marker assem-


bly in the bumper. Tighten the mounting screw securely.


SCREW


1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the side marker assembly mounting screw.


3. Remove the socket from the light


assembly by turning it counter- clockwise.


2. Remove the assembly from the fender by pulling out the back edge and sliding the assembly backwards.


4. Remove the bulb from the socket


by pulling it straight out. Install the new bulb. Turn on the headlights to test the bulb.


Maintenance


Replacing a High-mount Brake Light Bulb


3. Install the new bulb and reinstall


the socket Make sure the new bulb is working.


Replacing a Rear License Bulb


Lights


1. Open the trunk and remove the


socket from the light assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counter- clockwise.


2. Remove the burned-out bulb by


pulling it straight out of the socket.


BULB


1. Remove the two screws and


remove the license light assembly.


2. Remove the lens from the rubber


seal and the metal cover.


3. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb in until it bottoms in the socket.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Lights


4. Turn on the parking lights and


check that the new bulb is working.


5. Reinstall the cover and the lens. Put the license light assembly in place. Reinstall the two screws and tighten them securely.


Replacing Bulbs in the Interior Lights The ceiling light, door light and vanity mirror light come apart the same way. They do not all use the same bulb.


1. Remove the lens by carefully


prying on the edge of the lens with a fingernail file or a small flat-tip screwdriver. Do not pry on the edge of the housing around the lens.


Maintenance


CEILING LIGHT


Door light:


Ceiling light:


pry on the top middle of the lens.


pry on the front edge of the lens in the middle.


DOOR LIGHT (On some models)


SUN VISOR (On some models)


SPOTLIGHT (On some models)


Lights


2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.


3. Push the new bulb into the metal tabs. Snap the lens back in place.


Maintenance


Lights


Replacing a Trunk Light Bulb


TRUNK


2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.


3. Push the new bulb into the metal tabs. Snap the lens back in place.


1. Remove the lens by carefully


prying on the edge of the lens in the middle with a fingernail file or a small flat-tip screwdriver. Do not pry on the edge of the housing around the lens.


Maintenance


If you need to park your car for an extended period (more than 1
month), there are several things you should do to prepare it for storage. Proper preparation helps prevent deterioration and makes it easier to get your car back on the road. It is best to store your car indoors if at all possible.


Block the rear wheels.


If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jackstands so the tires are off the ground.


Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors).


Fill the fuel tank.


Disconnect the battery.


Change the engine oil and filter (see page 143).


Wash and dry the exterior completely.


Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry.


Leave the parking brake off. Put the transmission in Reverse (manual) or Park (automatic).


Support the front wiper blade arms with a folded towel or rag so they do not touch the windshield.


Apply a silicone spray lubricant to all door and trunk seals. Also, apply wax to the painted surfaces that mate with the door and trunk seals.


Storing Your Car


Cover the car with a "breathable" car cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton. Nonporous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture which can damage the paint


If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month).


If you store your car for 12 months or longer, have your Honda dealer perform the inspections called for in the 24 months/48,000 km (30,000
miles) maintenance schedule (Normal Conditions) as soon as you take it out of storage (see page 134). The replacements called for in the maintenance schedule are not needed unless the car has actually reached that time or mileage.


Maintenance


Regular cleaning and polishing of your Honda helps to keep it "new" looking. This section gives you hints on how to clean and preserve your car's appearance: the paint, bright- work, wheels and interior. Also included are several things you can do to help prevent corrosion.


Appearance Care


Exterior Care.................................. 184
Washing...................................... 184
Waxing........................................ 185
Aluminum Wheels..................... 185
Paint Touch-up........................... 186
Interior Care.................................. 187
Carpeting................................... 187
Fabric......................................... 187
Vinyl............................................ 187
Leather........................................ 187
Seat Belts.................................... 188


Air Fresheners........................... 188
Corrosion Protection..................... 189
Body Repairs.................................. 190


Appearance Care


Exterior Care


Washing Frequent washing helps preserve your car's beauty. Dirt and grit can scratch the paint, while tree sap and bird droppings can permanently ruin the finish.


Wash your car in a shady area, not in direct sunlight. If the car is parked in the sun, move it into the shade and let the exterior cool down before you start.


NOTICE


Chemical solvents and strong cleaners can damage the paint, metal, and plastic on your car.


Rinse the car thoroughly with cool water to remove loose dirt.


Appearance Care


Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild detergent, such as dishwashing liquid or a product made especially for car washing.


As you dry the car, inspect it for chips and scratches that could allow corrosion to start. Repair them with touch-up paint (see page 186).


Wash the car, using the water and detergent solution and a soft- bristle brush, sponge, or soft cloth. Start at the top and work your way down. Rinse frequently.


Check the body for road tar, tree sap, etc. Remove these stains with tar remover or turpentine. Rinse it off immediately so it does not harm the finish. Remember to re- wax these areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.


When you have washed and rinsed the whole exterior, dry it with a chamois or soft towel. Letting it air-dry will cause dulling and water spots.


Exterior Care


Polishes — Polishes and cleaner/ waxes can restore the shine to paint


shine. They normally contain mild abrasives and solvents that remove the top layer of the finish. You should use a polish on your Honda if the finish does not have its original shine after using a wax.


Cleaning tar, insects, etc. with removers also takes off the wax. Remember to re-wax those areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.


Aluminum Wheels On some models Clean your Honda's aluminum alloy wheels as you do the rest of the exterior. Wash them with the same solution, and rinse them thoroughly.


The wheels have a protective clear- coat that keeps the aluminum from corroding and tarnishing. Using harsh chemicals, including some commercial wheel cleaners, or stiff brushes can damage this clear-coat. Only use a mild detergent and soft brush or sponge to clean the wheels.


Waxing Always wash and dry the whole car before waxing it You should wax your car, including the metal trim, whenever water sits on the surface in large patches. It should form into beads or droplets after waxing.


You should use a quality liquid or paste wax. Apply it according to the instructions on the container. In general, there are two types of products:


Waxes — A wax coats the finish and protects it from damage by exposure to sunlight, air pollution, etc. You should use a wax on your Honda when it is new.


Appearance Care


Exterior Care


Paint Touch-up Your dealer has touch-up paint to match your car's color. The color code is printed on a sticker on the driver's doorjamb. Take this code to your dealer so you are sure to get the correct color.


Inspect your car for frequently for chips or scratches in the paint Repair them right away to prevent corrosion of the metal underneath. Use the touch-up paint only on small chips and scratches. More extensive paint damage should be repaired by a professional.


Appearance Care


Carpeting Vacuum the carpeting frequently to remove dirt Ground-in dirt will make the carpet wear out faster. Periodically shampoo the carpet to keep it looking new. Use one of the foam-type carpet cleaners on the market. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner, applying it with a sponge or soft brush. Keep the carpeting as dry as possible by not adding water to the foam.


Fabric Vacuum dirt and dust out of the material frequently. For general cleaning, use a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water, letting it air dry. To clean off stubborn spots, use a commercially-available fabric cleaner. Test it on a hidden area of the fabric first, to make sure it does not bleach or stain the fabric. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner.


Vinyl Remove dirt and dust with a vacuum cleaner. Wipe the vinyl with a soft cloth dampened in a solution of mild soap and water. Use the same solution with a soft-bristle brush on more difficult spots. You can also use commercially-available spray or foam-type vinyl cleaners.


Interior Care


Leather Optional for the U.S. EX model Vacuum dirt and dust from the leather frequently. Pay particular attention to the pleats and seams. Clean the leather with a soft cloth dampened with clear water, then buff it with a clean, dry cloth. If further cleaning is needed, use a soap specifically for leather, such as saddle soap. Apply this soap with a damp, soft cloth. Wipe down and buff as described above.


Appearance Care


Interior Care


Seat Belts


METAL LOOP


If your seat belts get dirty, you can use a soft brush with a mixture of mild soap and warm water to clean them. Do not use bleach, dye, or cleaning solvents. They can weaken the belt material. Let the belts air- dry before you use the car.


Appearance Care


Dirt build-up in the metal loops of the seat belt anchors can cause the belts to retract slowly. Wipe the inside of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in isopropyl alcohol or a mixture of mild soap and warm water.


Windows Clean the windows, inside and out, with a commercially-available glass cleaner. You can also use a mixture of one part white vinegar to ten parts water. This will remove the haze that builds up on the inside of the windows. Use a soft cloth or paper towels to clean all glass and clear plastic surfaces.


NOTICE


The rear window defogger and antenna wires are bonded to the inside of the glass. Wiping vigorously up-and- down can dislodge and break these wires. When cleaning the rear window, use gentle pressure and wipe side-to- side.


Air Fresheners If you want to use an air freshener/ deodorizer in the interior of your car, it is best to use a solid type. Some liquid air fresheners contain chemi- cals that may cause parts of the interior trim and fabric to crack or discolor.


If you use a liquid air freshener, make sure you fasten it securely so it does not spill as you drive.


Two factors normally contribute to causing corrosion in your can


1. Moisture trapped in body cavities.


Dirt and road salt that collects in hollows on the underside of the car stays damp, promoting corrosion in that area.


Many corrosion-preventive measures are built into your Honda. You can help keep your car from corroding by performing some simple periodic maintenance:


Repair chips and scratches in the paint as soon as you discover them.


2. Removal of paint and protective coatings from the exterior and underside of the car.


Inspect and clean out the drain holes in the bottom of the doors and body.


Check the floor coverings for dampness. Carpeting and floor mats may remain damp for a long time, especially in winter. This dampness can eventually cause the floor panels to corrode.


Corrosion Protection


Use a high-pressure spray to clean the underside of your car. This is especially important in areas that use road salt in winter. It is also a good idea in humid climates and areas subject to salt air. Cars equipped with ABS have a sensor and wiring at each wheel. Be careful not to damage them.


Have the corrosion-preventive coatings on the underside of your car inspected and repaired periodically.


Appearance Care


Body Repairs


Body repairs can affect your car's resistance to corrosion. If your car needs repairs after a collision, pay close attention to the parts used in the repair and the quality of the work.


Make sure the repair facility uses genuine Honda replacement body parts. Some companies make sheetmetal pieces that seem to duplicate the original Honda body parts, but are actually inferior in fit, finish, and corrosion resistance. Once installed, they do not give the same high-quality appearance.


When reporting your collision to the insurance company, tell them you want genuine Honda parts used in the repair. Although most insurers recognize the quality of original parts, some may try to specify that the repairs be done with other available parts. You should investi- gate this before any repairs are begun.


Take your car to your authorized Honda dealer for inspection after the repairs are completed. He can make sure that quality materials were used, and that corrosion-preventive coatings were applied to all repaired and replaced parts.


Appearance Care


Taking Care of the Unexpected


This section covers the more- common problems that motorists experience with their cars. It gives you information about how to safely evaluate the problem and what to do to correct it If the problem has stranded you on the side of the road, you may be able to get going again. If not, you will also find instructions on getting your car towed.


Compact Spare Tire....................... 192
Changing a Flat Tire..................... 193
If Your Engine Won't Start........... 199
Nothing Happens....................... 199
The Starter Operates


Normally................................. 200
Jump Starting................................. 200
If Your Engine Overheats............. 202
Low Oil Pressure........................... 204
Charging System Indication......... 205
Malfunction Indicator Lamp........ 206
Closing the Moonroof................... 207
Fuses............................................... 208
Checking and Replacing........... 209
Towing............................................ 213


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Compact Spare Tire


Your car has a compact spare tire that takes up less space. Use this spare tire as a temporary replace- ment only. Get your regular tire repaired or replaced and put back on your car as soon as you can.


Check the inflation pressure of the compact spare tire every time you check the other tires. It should be inflated to: 420 kPa (4.2 kgf/cm2, 60 psi)


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Follow these precautions whenever you are using the compact spare tire:


INDICATOR LOCATION MARK


Do not exceed 50 mph (80 km/h) under any circumstances.


This tire gives a harsher ride and less traction on some road sur- faces than the regular tire. Use greater caution while driving on this tire.


Do not mount snow chains on the compact spare.


The wheel of the compact spare tire is designed especially to fit your car. Do not use your spare tire on another car unless it is the same make and model.


TREAD WEAR INDICATOR BAR


The compact spare tire has a shorter tread life than a regular tire. Replace it when you can see the tread wear indicator bars. The replacement should be the same size and design tire, mounted on the same wheel. The compact spare tire is not designed to be mounted on a regular wheel, and the compact wheel is not designed for mounting a regular tire.


If you have a flat tire while driving, stop in a safe place to change it. Stopping in traffic or on the shoulder of a busy road is dangerous. Drive slowly along the shoulder until you get to an exit or an area to stop that is far away from the traffic lanes.


The car can easily roll off the jack, seriously injuring anyone underneath.


Follow the directions for changing a tire exactly, and never get under the car when it is supported only by the jack.


Changing a Flat Tire


TOOLKIT


TRUNK FLOOR


3. Open the trunk. Raise the trunk


floor by lifting up on the back edge.


4. Take the tool kit out of the spare


tire well.


5. Unscrew the wing bolt and take


the spare tire out of its well.


SPARE TIRE 1. Park the car on firm, level ground


JACK


away from traffic. Turn on the hazard warning lights and turn the ignition to LOCK (0).


2. Put the transmission in Park


(automatic) or Reverse (manual). Set the parking brake. Have your passengers get out of the vehicle.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Changing a Flat Tire


6. The jack is behind a cover in the


right fender. Remove the cover by turning the handle clockwise, then pulling on the cover.


JACK


CENTER CAP


7. Turn the jack's end bracket


counterclockwise to loosen it, then remove the jack.


SCREWDRIVER


8. (On some models)


Remove the center cap from the wheel with a screwdriver (not included in tool kit) or coin.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


WHEEL NUTS


EXTENSION


Changing a Flat Tire


9. Loosen the four wheel nuts 1/2


turn with the wheel wrench.


JACKING POINT


WHEEL WRENCH


11. Use the extension and wheel


wrench as shown to raise the car until the flat tire is off the ground.


10. Locate the jacking point nearest the tire you need to change. It is pointed to by an arrow molded into the underside of the body. Place the jack under the jacking point. Turn the end bracket clockwise until the top of the jack contacts the jacking point. Make sure the jacking point tab is resting in the jack notch.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Changing a Flat Tire


12. Remove the wheel nuts and flat tire. Temporarily place the flat tire on the ground with the outside surface of the wheel facing up. You could scratch the wheel if you put it face down.


BRAKE HUB


13. Before mounting the spare tire,


wipe any dirt off the mounting surface of the wheel and hub with a cloth.


14. Put on the spare tire. Put the


wheel nuts back on finger-tight, then tighten them in a crisscross pattern with the wheel wrench until the wheel is firmly against the hub. Do not try to tighten them fully.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Changing a Flat Tire


WING BOLT


SPACER CONE


15.Lower the car to the ground and


remove the jack.


16.Tighten the wheel nuts securely in the same crisscross pattern. Have the wheel nut torque checked at the nearest automotive service facility. Tighten the wheel nuts to: 108 N.m (11 kgf.m , 80 Ibf.ft)


17.Place the flat tire face down in the


spare tire well.


18.Remove the spacer cone from the


wing bolt, turn it over, and put it back on the bolt.


19.Secure the flat tire by screwing the wing bolt back into its hole.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Changing a Flat Tire


20.Store the jack in its holder. Turn the jack's end bracket to lock it in place. Replace the cover. Store the tool kit.


21.Store the wheel cover or center


cap in the trunk. Make sure it does not get scratched or damaged.


22.Lower the trunk floor, then close


the trunk lid.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Diagnosing why your engine won't start falls into two areas, depending on what you hear when you turn the key to START (II):


You hear nothing, or almost nothing. The engine's starter motor does not operate at all, or operates very slowly.


You can hear the starter motor operating normally, but the engine does not start up and run.


Nothing Happens or the Starter Motor Operates Very Slowly When you turn the ignition switch to START (III), you do not hear the normal noise of the engine trying to start. You may hear a clicking sound or series of clicks, or nothing at all. Check these things:


Check the transmission interlock. If you have a manual transmission, the clutch pedal must be pushed all the way to the floor or the starter will not operate. With an automatic transmission, it must be in Park or Neutral


Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the headlights and check their brightness. If the headlights are very dim or don't light at all, the battery is discharged. See Jump Starting on page 200.


If Your Engine Won't Start


Turn the ignition switch to START (III). If the headlights do not dim, check the condition of the fuses. If the fuses are OK, there is proba- bly something wrong with the electrical circuit for the ignition switch or starter motor. You will need a qualified technician to determine the problem. (See Towing on page 213.)


If the headlights dim noticeably or go out when you try to start the engine, either the battery is dis- charged or the connections are corroded. Check the condition of the battery and terminal connec- tions (see page 159). You can then try jump starting the car from a booster battery (see page 200).


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If Your Engine Won't Start, Jump Starting


The Starter Operates Normally In this case, the starter motor sounds normal when you turn the ignition switch to START (III), but the engine does not run.


Are you using the proper starting procedure? Refer to Starting the Engine on page 111.


Do you have fuel? Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) for a minute and watch the fuel gauge. The low fuel level warning light may not be working, so you were not reminded to fill the tank.


There may be an electrical problem, such as no power to the fuel pump. Check all the fuses (see page 208).


If you find nothing wrong, you will need a qualified technician to find the problem. See Towing on page 213.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Jump Starting If your car's battery has run down, you may be able to start the engine by using a booster battery. Although this seems like a simple procedure, there are several precautions you should take. Follow the directions closely.


A battery can explode if you do not follow the correct procedure, seriously injuring anyone nearby.


Keep all sparks, open flames, and smoking materials away from the battery.


You cannot start a Honda with an automatic transmission by pushing or pulling it.


To jump start your car:


1. Open the hood and check the


physical condition of the battery (see page 159). In very cold weather, check the condition of the electrolyte. If it seems slushy or like ice, do not try jump starting until it thaws.


NOTICE


If a battery sits in extreme cold, the electrolyte inside can freeze. Attempting to jump start with a frozen battery can cause it to rupture or explode.


2. Turn off all the electrical acces-


sories: heater, A/C, stereo system, lights, etc. Put the transmission in Neutral or Park and set the parking brake.


Jump Starting


3. Connect one jumper cable to the


positive ( +) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the positive ( +) terminal on your Honda's battery.


BOOSTER BATTERY


4. Connect the second jumper cable


to the negative (—) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the grounding strap as shown. Do not connect this jumper cable to any other part of the engine.


5. If the booster battery is in another car, have an assistant start that car and run it at a fast idle.


6. Start your car. If the starter motor


still operates slowly, check the jumper cable connections to make sure they have good metal-to- metal contact.


7. Once your car is running, discon- nect the negative cable from your car, then from the booster battery. Disconnect the positive cable from your car, then the booster battery.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If Your Engine Overheats


The pointer of your car's tempera- ture gauge should stay in the mid- range under most conditions. It may go higher if you are driving up a long steep hill on a very hot day. If it climbs to the red mark, you should determine the reason.


NOTICE


Driving with the temperature gauge pointer at the red mark can cause serious damage to your engine.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Your car can overheat for several reasons, such as lack of coolant or a mechanical problem. The only indication may be the temperature gauge climbing to or above the red mark. Or you may see steam or spray coming from under the hood. In either case, you should take immediate action.


Steam and spray from an overheated engine can seriously scald you.


Do not open the hood if steam is coming out.


1. Safely pull to the side of the road. Put the transmission in neutral or park and set the parking brake. Turn off the heating and cooling system and all other accessories. Turn on the hazard warning indicators.


2. If you see steam and/or spray


coming from under the hood, turn off the engine.


3. If you do not see steam or spray,


leave the engine running and watch the temperature gauge. If the high heat is due to overloading (climbing a long, steep hill on a hot day with the A/C running, for example), the engine should start to cool down almost immediately. If it does, wait until the tempera- ture gauge comes down to the mid- point then continue driving.


4. If the temperature gauge stays at the red mark, turn off the engine.


5. Wait until you see no more signs of steam or spray, then open the hood.


6. Look for any obvious coolant leaks,


such as a split radiator hose. Everything is still extremely hot, so use caution. If you find a leak, it must be repaired before you continue driving (see Towing on page 213).


7. If you don't find an obvious leak,


check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank (see page 145). If the level is below the MIN mark, add coolant to half-way between the MIN and MAX marks.


8. If there was no coolant in the


reserve tank, you may also have to add coolant to the radiator. Let the engine cool down until the pointer


reaches the middle of the tempera- ture gauge, or lower, before check- ing the radiator.


Removing the radiator cap while the engine is hot can cause the coolant to spray out, seriously scalding you.


Always let the engine and radiator cool down before removing the radiator cap.


9. Using gloves or a large heavy


cloth, turn the radiator cap counterclockwise, without pushing down, to the first stop. This releases any remaining pressure in the cooling system. After the pressure releases, push down on the cap and turn it until it comes off.


If Your Engine Overheats


10. Start the engine and set the temperature control dial to maximum. Add coolant to the radiator up to the base of the filler neck. If you do not have the proper coolant mixture available, you can add plain water. Remember to have the cooling system drained and refilled with the proper mixture as soon as you can.


11. Put the radiator cap back on


tightly. Run the engine and watch the temperature gauge. If it goes back to the red mark, the engine needs repair. (See Towing on page 213.)


12.1f the temperature stays normal,


check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank. If it has gone down, add coolant to the MAX mark. Put the cap back on tightly.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


4. Start the engine and watch the oil pressure light. If the light does not go out within ten seconds, turn off the engine. There is a mechanical problem that needs to be repaired before you can continue driving. (See Towing on page 213.)


Low Oil Pressure


LOW OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR


NOTICE


Running the engine with low oil pressure can cause serious mechanical damage almost immediately. Turn off the engine as soon as you can safely get the car stopped.


1. Safely pull off the road and shut


off the engine.


2. Let the car sit for a minute. Open


the hood and check the oil level (see page 140). Although oil level and oil pressure are not directly connected, an engine that is very low on oil can lose pressure during cornering and other driving maneuvers.


3. If necessary, add oil to bring the level back to the full mark on the dipstick (see page 140).


This indicator should light when the ignition is ON (II), and go out after the engine starts. It should never come on when the engine is running. If it starts flashing, it indicates that the oil pressure dropped very low for a moment, then recovered. If the indicator stays on with the engine running, it shows that the engine has lost oil pressure and serious engine damage is possible. In either case, you should take immediate action.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Charging System Indication


By eliminating as much of the electrical load as possible, you can drive several miles before the battery is top discharged to keep the engine running. Drive to a service station or garage where you can get technical assistance.


Immediately turn off all electrical accessories: radio, heater, A/C, rear defogger, cruise control, etc. Try not to use other electrically-operated controls such as the power windows. Keep the engine running and take extra care not to stall it. Starting the engine will discharge the battery rapidly.


CHARGING SYSTEM INDICATOR


This indicator should come on when the ignition is ON (II), and go out after the engine starts. If it comes on brightly when the engine is running, it indicates that the charging system has stopped charging the battery.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If this indicator light comes on, have your car checked by the dealer as soon as possible. Drive moderately until the dealer has inspected the problem. Avoid full-throttle accelera- tion and driving at high speed.


NOTICE


If you keep driving with the malfunc- tion indicator lamp on, you can damage your car's emission controls and engine. Those repairs may not be covered by your car's warranties.


Malfunction Indicator Lamp


MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP


This indicator comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch ON (II). If it comes on at any other time, it indicates that one of the engine's emissions control systems may have a problem. Even though you may feel no difference in your car's performance, it can reduce your fuel economy and cause your car to put out excessive emissions. Continued operation may cause serious engine damage.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If the electric motor will not close the moonroof, do the following:


1. Check the fuse for the moonroof motor (see page 212). If the fuse is blown, replace it with one of the same or lower rating.


2. Try closing the moonroof. If the


new fuse blows immediately or the moonroof motor still does not operate, you can close the moonroof manually.


3. Get the tool kit out of the trunk.


Closing the Moonroof


SOCKET


ROUND PLUG


4. Use a screwdriver or coin to remove the round plug in the center of the headliner.


5. Insert the moonroof wrench into the socket behind this plug. Turn the wrench until the moonroof is fully closed.


6. Remove the wrench. Replace the


round plug.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Fuses


All the electrical circuits in your car have fuses to protect them from a short circuit or overload. These fuses are located in two or three fuse boxes.


INTERIOR


UNDER-HOOD


TAB


KNOB The interior fuse box is underneath the dashboard on the driver's side. To open it, turn the knob as shown.


The under-hood fuse box is located in the front of the engine compart- ment on the passenger's side. To open it, push the tab as shown.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Fuses


ABS FUSE BOX


Checking and Replacing Fuses If something electrical in your car stops working, the first thing you should check for is a blown fuse. Determine from the chart on pages 211 and 212, or the diagram on the fuse box lid, which fuse or fuses control that component. Check those fuses first, but check all the fuses before deciding that is not the cause. Replace any blown fuses and check the component's operation.


BLOWN


Cars equipped with ABS have a third fuse box for the ABS. It is in the engine compartment on the right side.


1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Make sure the headlights and all other accessories are off.


2. Remove the cover from the fuse


box.


3. Check each of the large fuses in


the under-hood fuse box by looking through the top at the wire inside. Removing these fuses requires a Phillips-head screw- driver.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Fuses


FUSE PULLER


BLOWN


4. Check the smaller fuses in the under-hood fuse box and all the fuses in the interior fuse box by pulling out each fuse with the fuse puller provided in the interior fuse box.


5. Look for a burned wire inside the fuse. If it is burned out, replace it with one of the spare fuses of the same rating or lower.


If you cannot drive the car without fixing the problem, and you do not have a spare fuse, take a fuse of the same rating or a lower rating from one of the other circuits. Make sure you can do without that circuit temporarily (such as the cigarette lighter or radio).


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If you replace the blown fuse with a spare fuse that has a lower rating, it might blow out again. This does not indicate anything wrong. Replace the fuse with one of the correct rating as soon as you can.


NOTICE


Replacing a fuse with one that has a higher rating greatly increases the chances of damaging the electrical system. If you do not have a replace- ment fuse with the proper rating for the circuit, install one with a lower rating.


6. If the replacement fuse of the


same rating blows in a short time, there is probably a serious electrical problem in your car. Leave the blown fuse in that circuit and have your car checked by a qualified technician.


INTERIOR FUSE BOX


Fuses


Spare Fuse


* : On Canadian cars


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Fuses


UNDER-HOOD FUSE BOX


* 1: On Canadian cars * 2: US: EX, Canada: EX-R


ABS FUSE BOX


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If your car needs to be towed, call a professional towing service or, if you belong to one, an organization that provides roadside assistance. Never tow your car behind another car with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous.


Emergency Towing There are three popular methods of towing a car:


Flat-bed Equipment — The operator loads your car on the back of a truck. This is the best way of trans- porting your Honda.


Wheel Lift Equipment - The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear) and lift them off the ground. The other two tires remain on the ground.


Sling-type Equipment — The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension and the cables lift that end of the car off the ground. Your car's suspension and body can be seriously damaged if this method of towing is attempted.


If your Honda cannot be transported by flat-bed, it should be towed with the front wheels off the ground. If due to damage, your car must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, do the following:


5-speed Manual Transmission Release the parking brake. Shift the transmission to Neutral.


Automatic Transmission


Release the parking brake. Start the engine. Shift to D4, then to N. Turn off the engine.


Towing


NOTICE


Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine (automatic transmission), your car must be transported on a flat-bed.


It is best to tow the car no farther than 80 km (50 miles), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55
km/h).


NOTICE


Trying to lift or tow your car by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not designed to support the car's weight.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


The diagrams in this section give you the dimensions and capacities of your Honda, and the locations of the identification numbers. The expla- nations of several electronic and mechanical systems on your Honda are for the more technically-oriented owner.


Identification Numbers................. 216
Specifications................................. 218
Anti-lock Brake System................ 220
Tire Information............................ 221
Tire Size Designation................ 221
Wheel Size Designation............ 221
Tire Speed Ratings.................... 221
Tire Pressure Adjustment


For High Speed Driving........ 222
DOT Tire Quality Grading....... 222
Treadwear.............................. 222
Traction.................................. 223
Temperature.......................... 223


Technical Information


Emission Controls......................... 224
The Clean Air Act...................... 224
Crankcase Emission Control


System..................................... 224


Evaporative Emission Control


System..................................... 224
Exhaust Emission Controls...... 225
PGM-FI System..................... 225
Ignition Timing Control


System................................. 225


Exhaust Gas Recirculation


(EGR) System.................... 225


Three Way Catalytic


Converter............................ 225
Replacement Parts..................... 225
Three Way Catalytic Converter... 226


Technical Information


Identification Numbers


Your car has several identifying numbers located in various places.


The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is the 17-digit number your Honda dealer uses to register your car for warranty purposes. It is also necessary for licensing and insuring your car. The easiest place to find the VIN is on a plate fastened to the top of the dashboard. You can see it by looking through the windshield on the driver's side. It is also on the Certification label attached to the driver's doorjamb, and is stamped on the engine compartment bulkhead. The VIN is also provided in bar code on the Certification label.


Technical Information


VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER


CERTIFICATION LABEL


The Engine Number is stamped into the engine block. It is on the front.


The Transmission Number is on a label on top of the transmission.


Identification Numbers


AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION NUMBER


MANUAL TRANSMISSION NUMBER


ENGINE NUMBER


Technical Information


Specifications


* 1: U.S.: EX, Canada: EX-R * 2: U.S.: LX, Canada: LX


(Air conditioning is optional on Canadian LX model)


Technical Information


* 1: Including the coolant in the reserve tank and that remaining in the


engine. Reserve tank capacity: 0.6


(0.16 US gal, 0.13 Imp gal)


*2 : Excluding the oil remaining in the engine. * 3: U.S.: EX, Canada: EX-R


Specifications


page 157.


page 211


page 212


* 1 : Canada: LX * 2: U.S.: LX * 3: U.S.: EX, Canada: EX-R * 4: U.S.: LX with ABS, EX, Canada: EX-R


Technical Information


Anti-lock Brake System


The Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is standard equipment on the EX model in the U.S. and the EX-R model in Canada. It is optional on the U.S. LX model.


The ABS works by measuring how fast the wheels are turning during braking and comparing their speeds. If any wheel is rotating much slower than the others (on the verge of locking up and skidding), the system reduces hydraulic pressure to that wheel's brake caliper. When that wheel's speed matches the other wheels, the system applies normal hydraulic pressure. This can take place several times per second at each wheel. You feel the ABS working as rapid pulsations in the brake pedal.


Technical Information


Each wheel has a wheel speed sensor assembly. As the wheel rotates, the sensor sends electrical pulses to the ABS control unit. The pulse frequency varies with the wheel speed.


The electrical output of the ABS control unit is connected to the modulator/solenoid unit. During braking, the ABS control unit monitors the pulse frequencies from the four wheels. When the control unit detects a wheel locking up, it energizes the appropriate solenoid in the modulator/solenoid unit. There are six solenoids: two for each front wheel, and two for the rear wheels. The energized solenoid reduces hydraulic pressure to one side of a modulator valve. This, in turn, reduces hydraulic pressure in the brake line going to the affected wheel. When that wheel speeds up because of the reduced braking effort, the control unit de-energizes


the solenoid. This builds hydraulic pressure on the modulator valve. The pressure increases in the hydraulic line to the wheel.


For the system to react quickly, the modulator/solenoid unit must have brake fluid under high pressure. This is supplied by a piston-type accumulator that is pressurized by an electric pump. A pressure-sensing switch on the accumulator controls this pump.


The control unit also contains error detection circuitry. It monitors the operation of the wheel sensors, solenoids, pump, and electronics. If the control unit detects any faults, it shuts off power to the pump motor and solenoids. The light on the instrument panel comes on. The brakes then work like a conventional system without anti-lock capabilities.


Tire Size Designation A tire's sidewall is marked with a tire size designation. You will need this information when selecting replace- ment tires for your car. The follow- ing explains what the letters and numbers in the tire size designation mean.


(Example tire size designation) P185/70R14 87S


P — Applicable vehicle type (tires marked with the prefix "P" are intended for use on passenger cars; however, not all tires have this marking).


185 — Tire width in millimeters.


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