1996 GMC Sierra Owners Manual

about the steepness of the incline, don’t drive across it. Find another route instead.

4-24

Stalling on an Incline If your vehicle stalls when you're crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you'll be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope. stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the ' vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

4-25

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances. It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud -- the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck. When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may want t.o reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve traction.

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

4-26

Driving in Water Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or exhaust pipe, don’t try it -- you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts. If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

Driving mrough rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it’s only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing water.

See “Driving Through Water” in the Index for more information on driving through water.

4-27

Dr

g at I\

Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

4-28

Here are some tips on night driving. 0 Drive defensively. 0 Don’t drink and drive. 0 Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the

glare from he.adlamps behind you.

0 Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.

0 In remote areas, watch for animals. 0 If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place

and rest. ght Vis- -

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will

have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.

4-29

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if’ your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

4-30

I

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a vehicle wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some vehicle washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.

Driving Through Deep Standing Water

NOTICE:

If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your is slightly engine. Never drive through water that lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips

Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)

--

City Driv---,

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:

Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”) Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

4-33

Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. 4-34

At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.

The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip‘? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if YOLI need it.

Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Wnslwr FILd: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape‘? F~lel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lnmps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? M q x : Do you have up-to-date maps?

‘--b hway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less thun CI secmd, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain. If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See “Off-Road Driving” in the Index for information about driving off-road.)

0 Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid

levels and also the brakes, tires. cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

~h CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area’or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

4-37

Winter Driving

1nclude.an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a , couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

Here are some tips for winter driving: 0 Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. 0 You may want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

4-3s

Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index. 0 Allow greater following distance on any

slippery road.

0 Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

4-39

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer,the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32 O F ; 0 O C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution.

If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:

Turn on your hazard flashers.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

4-40

I /1\ CAJTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery (or batteries) charged. You will need a well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for awhile. If you have a diesel engine, you may have to run it at a higher speed to get enough heat. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

~.

4-41

Loading Your Vehicle

---

", ,. ,

\ SEE OWNER'S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION I

your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.

The Certificatiomire label is found on the rear edge of the driver's door or in the Incomplete Vehicle Document in the cab. The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. The Certificationmire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on

In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things carried in the bed of your truck could shift forward and come into the passenger area, injuring you and others. If you put things in the bed of your truck, you should make sure they are properly secured.

Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.

4-42

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, or it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

NOTICE:

Your warranty dose not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else -- they go as f a t as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

CriUTdN:

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. 0 Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle.

Try to spread the weight evenly. Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

0 Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in

your vehicle. When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

0 Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you

need to.

There’s also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See ”Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Truck-Camper Loading Information This label is inside your glove box. It will tell you if your vehicle can carry a slide-in camper, how much of a load your vehicle can carry, and how to correctly spread out your load. Also, it will help you match the right slide-in camper to your vehicle. When you carry a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of your vehicle is the weight of the camper, PLUS 0 everything else added to the camper after it left

the factory; everything in the camper; and

0 a l l the people inside. The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But, you can figure about 1-50 Ibs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.

4-44

Refer to the Truck Camper Loading Information label in glove box for A and B dimensions. Use the rear edge of the load floor for measurement purposes. The recommended location for the cargo center of gravity for the Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the point where the mass of a body is concentrated and, if suspended at that point, would balance the front and rear.

Here is an example of proper truck and camper match:

A. Camper Center of Gravity B. Recommended Center of Gravity Location Zone The camper‘s center of gravity should fall within the center of gravity zone for your vehicle’s cargo load. You must weigh any accessories or other equipment that you add to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra weight may shorten the center of gravity zone of your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. If your slide-in camper and its load weighs less than the CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger.

Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper match. He’ll also help you determine your CWR. After you’ve loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and weigh on the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on your axles. The loads on the front and rear axles shouldn’t be more than either of the GAWRs. The total of the axle loads should not be more than the GVWR. Open your driver’s door and look at the Cel-tificationflire label to find out your GAWR and GVWR. If you’ve gone over your weight ratings, move or take out some things until all the weight f;llls below the ratings. Of course, you should always tie down any loose items when you load your vehicle or camper. When you install and load your slide-in camper, check the manufacturer’s instructions. If you want more information on curb weights, cargo weights, Cargo Weight Rating and the correct center of L qravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer can help you. Just ask for a copy of “Consumer Information, Truck-Camper Loading.”

’ 4-45

Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the CWR for your vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or G A M . You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see “Trailer Towing” in the Index. Camper Wiring Harness (Option) A five-wire harness is stored in the front stake pocket on the driver’s side of the bed. The harness has no connector and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician. It must be routed out. of your vehicle and securely attached so that it won’t be pulled or rubbed while you’re using it. Store the harness in it’s original position. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged. Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may consider having the pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed. Before you do so, first contact the GM Zone Office for your area for information on such conversions specific to this vehicle.

4-46

(See the “Warranty and Owner Assistance” booklet for Zone Office.) Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which may affect vehicle safety. The components necessary to adapt a pickup to permit its safe use with a specialized body should be installed by a body builder in accordance with the information available from the Zone Office. Towing a Trail-r

If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the

brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You

and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your GM dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

NOTICE:

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your GM dealer for-important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Every vehicle is ready for some trailer towing. If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure- your rig will be lega1,not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 4,000 lbs. (1 800 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than 4,000 lbs. (1 800 kg). You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all‘during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then; during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 ktn/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

4-47

0 If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow

in OVERDRIVE (@). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often ( e g , under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).

Three important considerations have to do with weight: the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the weight on your vehicle’s tires. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.

Use one of the following charts to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Above the 2,000 lbs. (908 kg) trailer rating, the engine oil cooler is required on C/K- 1500 models with gas engines and C/K-2500 models with gas engines and 3.73 (or lower) axle ratio. Above the 4,000 lbs. (1 800 kg) trailer rating, heavy-duty or gas shock absorbers are required on C- 1500 models, and heavy-duty shock absorbers or the off-road chassis package are required on K-1500 models.

4-48

C-1500 (2WD) Engine (Trans.) Axle Ratio 4.3L (Auto.)

3 .os 3.42 3 .os 3.42 3.08 3.42 3 .OS 3.42 3 .os 3.42 3.73 3.08 3.42

Max. Trailer Wt. 4,000 Ibs. ( 1 800 kg) 5,000 Ibs. (2 270 kg) 2,000 lbs. (908 kg) 2,500 lbs. (1 135 kg) 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) 6,000 Ibs. (2 724 kg) 2,500 Ibs. (1 135 kg) 3,500 Ibs. (1 589 kg) 5,500 lbs. (2 497 kg) 6,500 lbs. (2 95 1 kg) 7,500 Ibs. (3 405 kg) 6,000 lbs. (2 724 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 178 kg)

4.3L (Manual j

5.0L (Auto.)

5.0L (Manual)

5.7L

6.5L Diesel

(Auto)

K-1500 (4WD) Engine (Trans.) Axle Ratio 4.3L (Auto.) 4.3L (Manual) 5.0L (Auto.)

5 .OL (Manual)

5.7L

6.5L Diesel

(Auto.)

3.73 3.73 3.42 3.73 3.42 3.73 3.42 3.73 3.42 3.73

Max. Trailer Wt. 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) 2,500 lbs. (1 135 kg) 5,500 lbs. (2 497 kg) 6,500 Ibs. (2 951 kg) 3,000 Ibs. (1 362 kg) 4,000 I bs. ( 1 800 kg) 6,000 lbs. (2 724 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 178 kg) 6,500 lbs. (2 95 1 kg) 7,500 Ibs. (3 405 kg)

C-2500 (2WD) Engine (Trans.) Axle Ratio Max. Trailer Wt. 4.3L (Auto.)

3.42 3.73 3.42 3 -42 3.73 3.42 3.73 3.42 3.73 4.10 3.42 3.73 7,500 4.10 3.73 4.10

4,500 lbs. (2 043 kg) 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) 2,000 lbs. (908 kg) 5,500 lbs. (2 497 kg) 6,500 lbs. (2 951 kg) 3,000 lbs. (1 362 kg) 4,000 lbs. (1 800 kg) 6,000 Ibs. (2 724 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 178 kg) 8,000 lbs. (3 632 kg) 6,500 lbs. (2 95 1 kg) lbs. (3 405 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 859 kg) 6,500 lbs. (2 95 1 kg) 7,500 Ibs. (3 405 kg)

4.3L (Manual) 5.0L (Auto.)

5 .OL (Manual)

5.7L

6.5L Diesel

(Auto.)

6.5L Diesel (Manual)

K-2500 (4WD) Engine (Trans.) Axle Ratio Max. Trailer Wt. 4.3L (Auto.) 4.3L (Manual) 5.0L (Auto.)

3.73 3.73 3.42 3.73 3.42 3.73 3.42 3.73 4.10 3.42 3.73 4.10 3.73 4.10

4,500 lbs. (2 043 kg) 2,000 lbs. (908 kg) 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) 6,000 lbs. (2 724 kg) 2,500 lbs. (1 135 kg) 3,500 lbs. (1 589 kg) 5,500 lbs. (2 497 kg) 6,500 lbs. (2 95 1 kg) 7,500 lbs. (3 405 kg) 6,000 lbs. ( 2 724 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 178 kg) 8,000 lbs. (3 632 kg) 6,000 lbs. (2 724 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 178 kg)

5 .OL (Manual)

5.7L

6.5L Diesel (Auto.)

6.5L Diesel (Manual)

C-3500 (2WD) Engine (Tkans.) Axle Ratio 5.7L

6.5L Diesel (Auto.) 6.5L Diesel (Manual)

7.4L

4.10 4.56 4.10

Max. Trailer Wt. 8,000 lbs. (3 632 kg) 9,500 Ibs. (3 363 kg) 8,500 Ibs. (3 859 kg)

4.10

7,500 Ibs. (3 405 kg)

4.10

4.56

11,000 Ibs." (4 994 kg) 13,000 Ibs.* (5 902 kg)

*Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg).

K-3500 (4WD) Engine (lkans.) Axle Ratio Max. Trailer Wt. 5.7L 6.5L Diesel (Auto.) 6.5L Diesel (Manual)

7,500 lbs. (3 405 kg) 8,000 lbs. (3 632 kg)

7,000 Ibs. (3 178 kg)

4.10 4.10

4.10

7.4L

4.10

4.56

10,500 lbs.* (4 767 kg) 12,500 lbs.* (5 675 kg)

*Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg).

4-51

C-3500 Crew Cab (2WD) Engine (Trans.) Axle 5.7L

K-3500 Crew Cab (4WD) Engine (Tkans.) Axle 5.7L

4.10

Ratio Max. Trailer Wt.

4.10 4.56 4.10

7,500 lbs. (3 405 kg) 9,000 Ibs. (4 086 kg) 8,000 lbs. (3 632 kg)

4.10

7,000 Ibs. (3 178 kg)

4.10

4.56

10,500 lbs.* (4 767 kg) 12,500 Ibs.* (5 675 kg)

6% Diesel

(Auto.)

6.5L Diesel (Manual)

7.4L

Ratio Max. Trailer Wt.

4.56 8,500 4.10

7,000 Ibs. (3 178 kg) Ibs. (3 859 kg) 8,000 Ibs. (3 632 kg)

4.10

7,000 Ibs. (3 178 kg)

4.10

4.56

10,500 Ibs* (4 767 kg) 12,500 Ibs? (5 675 kg)

6.5L Diesel

(Auto.)

6.5L Diesel (Manual)

7.4L

*Fifth wheel hitch rating.; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg).

*Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 10,000 Ibs. (4 540 kg).

4-52

(2-3500 HDiChassis .Cab Engine (Trans.) Axle 5.7L

Ratio Max. Trailer Wt.

6% Diesel

(Auto.)

6.5L Diesel (Manual)

7.4L

4.63 5.13 4.63 5.13

4.63 5.13 4.63

5.13

(3

8,500 lbs. kg) 859 8,500 lbs. (3 859 kg) 8,000 lbs. (3 632 kg) 10,500 lbs.* (4 767 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 178 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 859 kg) 12,500 lbs.* (5 675 kg) 12,500 lbs.* (5 675 kg)

*Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg).

You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the addreis listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Assistance Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LlH 8P7

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. S&e “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

4-53

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.

0 If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will

weigh more than 4,000 Ibs. (1 800 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.

If you’re using a weight-carryipg hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you’re using a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

Y

You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

If your trarler weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:

The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure.

0 The trailer’s brake system will use less than

0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.

If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

rrailer

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

4-55

Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowlv and. if possible, have someone guide you.

Making Turns

NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

4-56

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear b e ~ m you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.

If you have an automatic transmission, you should use THIRD (3) (or, as you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat build-up and extend the life of your transmission If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off‘ immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating’’ in the Index.

Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1.

Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet for an automatic transmission, or into gear for a manual transmission. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in NEUTRAL (N). Release the regular brakes.

2. 3.

4.

5.

6.

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. If you have four-wheel drive and your transfer case is in NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL (N).

Trailer Wiring Harness A seven-wire harness is stored under the rear end of your vehicle. between the frame rails. An electrical connector will need to be installed at the trailer end of the harness, by a qualified electrical technician. For additional trailer wiring and towing information please consult your GM dealer. Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or strap it to your vehicle’s frame rail. Be sure you leave it loose enough so the wiring won’t bind or break when turning with the trailer, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the harness in its original position. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged. If you tow a trailer, your Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) may not be properly visible from behind. You should select a trailer with a CHMSL on it or, if one is not available, have one installed. See your GM dealer about how to connect your vehicle’s wiring to a trailer CHMSL.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: 0 Start your engine;

Shift into a gear; and

0 Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

4-59

-

DW

* Winche-

Power Take-Off (PTO)

IT you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored.

NOTICE:

NOTICE:

Using a power winch with the transmission in gear may damage the transmission. When operating a power winch, always leave the transmission in NEUTRAL (N).

Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake, or block the wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling.

If you have a PTO that will exceed 35 hp installed on your vehicle, it could damage the transfer case or transmission. When having a PTO installed on your vehicle, make sure that it will not exceed 35 hp.

Before using a PTO, refer to the manufacturer’s or installer’s instructions.

I NOTICE:

Using a PTO while operating in one place before the vehicle has reached normal operating temperature can damage the transfer case or transmission. If you will be using the PTO while operating in one place, drive and warm up the vehicle before using the PTO.

Using a Transfer Case Mounted Power Take-Off (Manual Transmission) 1. Set the parking brake, 2. Shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL (N). 3. Hold the clutch pedal down. If the vehicle will

remain in the same place, shift the transmission into the highest gear. 4. Engage the PTO.

If you are going to drive the vehicle, shift the transmission into the gear you want. Then shift the transfer case into the range you want, apply the regular brakes and release the parking brake.

5. Release the clutch (and the regular brakes) as you nor~nally would. When you release the clutch, the PTO will start.

To engage a PTO: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL (Nj. 3. Hold the clutch pedal down and engage the PTO.

NOTICE:

Using a PTO for more than four hours without driving your vehicle can damage the transfer case or transmission. If using a PTO for more than four hours without driving your vehicle, drive your vehicle for a while to allow the transfer case and transmission to cool.

If you are going to drive the vehicle, shift the transmission into the gear you want. Then shift the transfer case into the range you want (if you have four-wheel drive), apply the regular brakes and release the parking brake.

4. Release the clutch (and the regular brakes) as you normally would. When you release the clutch, the PTO will start.

4-61

Using a Transfer Case Mounted Power Take-Off (Automatic Transmission) 1. 2. 3. 4.

Set the parking brake. Shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL (N). Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL (N). Engage the PTO. If you are going to drive the vehicle, shift the transfer case into the range yo11 want. Then apply the regular brakes and release the parking brake. Shift the transmission to THIRD (3) to start the PTO. Release the regular brakes to drive the vehicle.

5. 6. Step-Bumper Pad If your vehicle has a rear step bumper, it may be equipped with a rear step pad at the center of the bumper.

4-62

If you will be using the bumper to tow a trailer, you must remove the center cutout circle to install the trailer ball. You must also remove both outer cutouts to attach the trailer safety chains.

To remove the pad, lift the edge of the pad from the rear of the bumper and swing it forward. When the pad releases from the bumper holes, lift the pad off.

Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road. Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off. But they won’t flash if you’re braking.

Press the button at the top of the steering column all the way down to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.

5-1

’ A CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

I NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

To turn off the flashers, press the button until the first click and release. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can use them to warn others. Set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please use the following steps to do it safely.

NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your vehicle warranty. Don’t try to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it. This could damage your vehicle, even if you have a manual transmission. And if you have an automatic transmission, it won’t start that way.

5-2

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the ve.hicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL (N). If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL (N).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlets, if you have this option. Turn off all lamps that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. In addition, it could save your radio!

NOTICE:

I ~~~

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals 011

each battery. A CAUTION:

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

5-3

A CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the batteries have enough water. You don’t need to add water to the Delco Freedom@ battery (or batteries) installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away .from moving parts once the engines are running.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7 . Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

5-5

8. Now connect the

black negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) cable.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part of the vehicle with the dead battery.

9.

10.

11.

Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for awhile. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.

A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

Towing Your Vehicle Try to have your GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If your vehicle has been changed since it was factory-new, by adding such things as fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these’ instructions may not be correct. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

That your vehicle .has rear-wheel drive, or that it has the four-wheel-drive option. The make, model and year of your vehicle. Whether you can move the shift lever for the transmission and transfer case, if you have one. If there was an accident, what was damaged.

When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.

5-7

/A CAUTION:

I A CAUTION:

To help avoid injury to you or others:

Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is being towed. Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds. Never tow with damaged parts not fully secured. Never get under your vehicle after it has been lifted by the tow truck. Always use separate safety chains on each side when towing a vehicle. For pickups (except cab chassis models), use T-hooks on front of vehicle, J-hooks on rear. For cab chassis models, use J-hooks on front and rear of vehicle.

5-8

A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t adequately secured. This can cause a collision, serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or steel cables before it is transported. Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps, canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp edges underneath the towed vehicle.

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key in the OFF position. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transmission and transfer case, if you have one, should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released. Don’t have your vehicle towed on the drive wheels unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the drive wheels, be sure to follow the speed and distance restrictions later in this section or your transmission will be damaged. If these limitations must be exceeded, then the drive wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

Front Towing Tow Limits -- 35 mph (56 k d h ) , 50 miles (SO km) If these limits must be exceeded, then the rear wheels have to be supported on n dolly.

Rear Towing

NOTICE:

Towing pickup models from the rear while loaded with heavy cargo may cause the frame side rails to flex sufficiently to allow the pickup box to contact the cab and could cause damage to the cab and/or box.

5-9

Engine Overheating (Gasoline Engine) You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine Overheating” in the Diesel Engine Supplement. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

5-10

A CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before opening the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. 0 Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: I . 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

If you have an air conditioner, turn it off.

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (0) o r THIRD (3) for automatic transmissions.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turn of the engine nrzd get everyone nut of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-11

Cooling System -- Gasoline Engines

When you decide it's safe t o lift the hood, here's what you'll see:

A CAUTION:

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don't do anything else until it cools down.

A. Coolant Recovery Tdnk B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan(s)

A CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don't touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don't run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

The coolant level should be at or above the COLD mark. If it isn"t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

5-13

NOTICE:

I A CAUTION:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the COLD mark, add a SO/SO mixture of ciecu? w t e r (preferably distilled) and DEX-COOL” (orange-colored, silicate-free) antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See (‘Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.)

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL TM antifreeze.

I NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mix.

5- 14

You can be burned if’ you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hat engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues. there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

A CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if' you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

5-16

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

I . You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don't press down while turning the pressure cap. j If you hear a hiss, wait for that t o stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

5-17

3. Fill the radiator with the

proper mix, up to the base of the filler neck.

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the

COLD mark.

5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

5-18

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan(s).

7. By this time the coolant level inside the radiator

filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck. reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

5-19

Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins fdster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing andor high outside temperatures, the fm speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch partially disengages. You may also hear this fm noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a. drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Fake your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and ITMY require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes tlat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-20

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

To be even more certain the vehicle won't move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in PARK (P) or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE: (K).

3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle,

be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL (N).

4. Turn off the engine.

CAUTION: (Continued)

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

5-21

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

2 and 4-DOOr Models

5-22

Extended Cab Models

The equipment you’ll need is behind the passenger’s seat. Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and remove the jack cover, if there is one. Remove the jacking equipment. If you have a chassis cab, refer to the information from the body supplierhstaller for the location of your spare tire. If you have an underbody-mounted spare, never remove or restow a tire from an underbody carrier while the vehicle is supported only by a jack. You’ll use the jack handle and the ratchet to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.

Follow these instructions to lower the spare tire: 1 .

One side of the ratchet has an IJP marking. The other side has a DOWN marking. Assenlble the ratchet t o the hook near the end of the jack handle (as illustrated) with the DOWN marking facing you. Insert the other end through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft. Turn the ratchet to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the ratchet until the spare tire can be plrlled out from under the vehicle. When the tire has been lowered. tilt the retainer at the end of the cable so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

2.

3.

4.

A. Hoist Assembly B. Ratchet C . Jack Handle D. Hoist Shaft E. Valve Stem,

Pointed Down

E Spare Tire Ci. Retainer H. Hoist Cable

Attach the jack handle (and jack handle extension, if needed) to the jack.

With the IJP marking on the ratchet facing you. rotate the ratchet clockwise. That will lift the jack head

The tools you'll be using include the jack (A), the jack handle extension (B), the jack handle (C), the wheel wrench (D) and the ratchet (E). If the flat tire is on the rear of the vehicle, you'll need the jack handle extension also.

5 -24

If your vehicle has wheel nut caps, use the wheel wrench and ratchet t o remove them. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise, with DOWN fdcing you. to remove the wheel nut caps.

Removing the Spare

w Flat Tire and Inst-'

1. Use the ratchet and

wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise, with DOWN fdcing you. to loosen the wheel nuts. Don't remove the wheel nuts yet.

Then take off the hub cap. If the wheel also has a trim ring, LISI: to pry along the edge and remove it. If the wheel has a smooth center piece or a center piece with recessed nuts, place the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry out.

the wheel wrench

2. Position the jack under the vehicle.

Getting under a vehicle when it isjacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

NOTICE:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

Front Position

Rear Position

5-26

Front Position

Rear Position

3. With UP o n the ratchet facing you, raise the vehicle by rotating the ratchet and wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire t o fit.

4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

5. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

I A CAUTIO^:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

5-27

6. Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each wheel nut by hand using the wheel. wrench until the wheel is held against the hub.

8. Tighten the nuts

firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown by rotating the wheel