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the vehicle placing the hook and posts on the inner side into the alignment holes first and then the outer side into the retainer bracket. Push until you hear a click.


9. Reinstall the headlamp assembly back into


the vehicle.


Roof Marker Lamps To replace a roof marker lamp bulb, do the following:


1. Remove the two screws and lift off the lens.


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2. Install a new bulb


into the socket and turn it clockwise until it locks into place.


To replace a center roof marker lamp bulb, do the following:


3. Reinstall the lens and tighten the screws.


1. Remove the six screws from the center roof


marker lamp assembly.


2. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise to remove


it from the socket.


3. Reinstall the lens and tighten the screws.


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Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) and Cargo Lamp To replace one of these bulbs, do the following:


1. Remove the screws and lift off the lamp


assembly.


A. Cargo Lamp B. Center High-Mounted Stoplamp Bulb


2. Remove the back plate from the assembly by


pressing the release tabs.


3. Remove the CHMSL bulb by pulling the bulb


straight out from the holder back plate. Remove a cargo bulb by turning the socket counterclockwise and pulling the bulb straight out.


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4. If a CHMSL bulb is replaced, put the new bulb


into the socket and press it in until it is tight. If a cargo lamp is replaced, put a new cargo lamp bulb into the socket and press it in until it is tight before turning the socket counterclockwise.


5. Reinstall the back plate into the lamp


assembly.


6. Reinstall the lamp assembly and tighten the


screws.


5. Plug in a new lamp and snap it into the


assembly.


6. Reinstall the lamp assembly.


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the tailgate. Tailgate on page 127


for more information.


2. Remove the two


rear lamp assembly screws near the tailgate latch and pull out the lamp assembly.


Pickup Box Identification and Fender Marker Lamps To replace a pickup box identification or fender marker lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the screws and lamp assembly. 2. Unplug the lamp assembly harness. 3. Gently pry the individual lamp from the lamp


assembly.


4. Unplug the lamp.


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3. Determine which of the following taillamp


assembly applies to your vehicle.


4. Press the release tab, if the vehicle has one, and turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp assembly.


5. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket. 6. Press a new bulb into the socket and turn


the socket clockwise into the taillamp assembly.


7. Reinstall the taillamp assembly.


A. Stoplamp/Taillamp B. Turn Signal C. Back-up Lamp


A. Stoplamp/Taillamp B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp D. Sidemarker Lamp


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Taillamps (Chassis Cab Models)


A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Taillamp/Stoplamp C. Back-up Lamp


License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Reach under the rear bumper for the bulb


socket.


To replace one of these bulbs, do the following:


1. Peel the rubber seal away from the lens. 2. Lift the lens off the lamp assembly. 3. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket. 4. Install a new bulb into the socket and


press it in until it is tight.


5. Reinstall the lens and the lens seal.


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2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and


pull the bulb socket out of the connector.


3. Pull the old bulb from the bulb socket, keeping


the bulb straight as you pull it out.


4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the


bulb socket.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamp


Bulb Number


Exterior Lamp


Bulb Number


Back-up Lamp


Back-up Lamp*


Cargo Lamp and Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)


Daytime Running Lamp (DRL)


Fender Marker, Front Roof Marker, and Sidemarker Lamp (If Equipped)


Front Parking and Turn Lamp


Headlamps


High-Beam


Low-Beam


License Plate Lamp


Rear Marker Lamp, Taillamp and Stoplamp*


Rear Turn Signal Lamp


3157


1156


912


4114K


194


3457A


9005


9006


168


3157


3157


Rear Turn Signal Lamp*


Stoplamp and Taillamp*


* Chassis Cab Models


1156


1157


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 615 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts (Gasoline Engines) on page 629.


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To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield.


2. Push the release lever (B) to disengage the hook and push the wiper arm (A) out of the blade (C).


3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm until you hear the release lever click into place.


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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 403.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same


danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 550.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.


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20-Inch Tires If your vehicle has the optional 20-inch P275/55R20 size tires, they are classified as touring tires and are designed for on road use. The low-profile, wide tread design is not recommended for “off-road” driving or commercial uses such as snow plowing. See Off-Road Driving on page 366 and Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment on page 410 for additional information.


Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall.


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Passenger (P-Metric) Tire


(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.


(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 559.


(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 550 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 403.


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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual configuration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 550 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 403.


(D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.


(E) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire


(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


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(F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 550 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 403. Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire


Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


(A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the first two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


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(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.


(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


Tire Terminology and Definitions


Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).


Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/ transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.


Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.


(F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.


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Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.


GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 403.


Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 550.


Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.


DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.


GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 403.


GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 403.


Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.


Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.


Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.


Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.


Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.


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Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.


Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.


Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 403.


Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.


Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.


Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 550 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 403.


Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.


Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.


Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.


Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.


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Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.


Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 555.


UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 559.


Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 403.


Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.


Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 403.


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A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door lock post (striker). This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and their recommended cold tire inflation pressures. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 403. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the spare tire. For additional information regarding the spare tire, see Spare Tire on page 586.


Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards


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How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


High Speed Operation (SS Silverado)


{CAUTION:


Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load.


If your vehicle has P275/55R20 size tires and you will be driving at high speeds, speeds of 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, set the cold inflation pressure to the maximum inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or 38 psi (265 kPa), whichever is lower.


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The outer tire on a dual wheel setup generally wears faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically, see Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 553. Also see Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 615.


{CAUTION:


If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is badly underinflated, the tire can overheat. An overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire. You or others could be injured. Be sure all tires (including the spare) are properly inflated.


See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 550, for information on proper tire inflation.


See the example following. When you end this high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold inflation pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 403. Example: You will find the maximum load and inflation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters, near the rim flange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 690 kg (1521 lbs) 300 kPa (44 psi) Max. Press. For this example, you would set the inflation pressure for high-speed driving at 38 psi (265 kPa).


Dual Tire Operation When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque and wheel nut tightening information, see Removing the Spare Tire and Tools on page 566.


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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 555 and Wheel Replacement on page 560 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel wrench/hoist shaft to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 564. If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, also see Dual Tire Operation on page 552.


The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 615.


If your vehicle has single rear wheels and the tread design for your front tires is the same as your rear tires, use the rotation pattern shown here when rotating your tires.


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If your vehicle has dual rear wheels and the tread design for the front tires is different from the dual rear tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here when rotating your tires.


The dual tires are rotated as a pair, and the inside rear tires become the outside rear tires. When you install dual wheels, be sure the vent holes in the inner and outer wheels on each side are lined up. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 403. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 607.


If your vehicle has dual rear wheels and the tread design for your front tires is the same as your rear tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires.


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{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 564.


When It Is Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.


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You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more


places around the tire.


(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through


the tire’s rubber.


(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or


snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.


(cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage


that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 542 for additional information.


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{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size, brand, and type tires on all wheels. Your vehicle may have a different size spare than the road tires (those originally installed on your vehicle). When new, your vehicle included a spare tire and wheel assembly with a similar overall diameter as your vehicle’s road tires and wheels, so it is all right to drive on it. Because this spare was developed for use on your vehicle, it will not affect vehicle handling.


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 403, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.


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Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.


{CAUTION:


If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.


See Buying New Tires on page 556 and Accessories and Modifications on page 464 for additional information.


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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.


Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist.


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Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 607. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 564 for more information.


Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.


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Used Replacement Wheels


{CAUTION:


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


Tire Chains


{CAUTION:


If your vehicle has dual wheels or P265/75R16, LT265/75R16, P265/70R17 or P275/55R20 size tires, do not use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there is not enough clearance.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


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CAUTION:


(Continued)


Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your vehicle’s wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.


If your vehicle does not have dual


Notice: wheels and is equipped with a tire size other than P265/75R16, LT265/75R16, P265/70R17 or P275/55R20, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Don’t use chains on the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.


If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.


563


A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.


{CAUTION:


Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.


If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


564


Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 212 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in PARK (P), or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear – not in NEUTRAL.


4. Turn off the engine and do not restart


while the vehicle is raised.


5. Do not allow passengers to remain in


the vehicle.


To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.


When your vehicle has a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of the wheel blocks.


The following information will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire.


565


Removing the Spare Tire and Tools


1500 Crew Cab


A. Knob B. Retaining Hook C. Wheel Blocks


D. Wing Nut Retaining


Wheel Blocks


E. Jack


Regular Cab and Crew Cab (Except 1500 Crew Cab)


A. Wing Nut Retaining


D. Tool Kit and


Wheel Blocks B. Wheel Blocks C. Retaining Bracket


and Wing Nut


Jack Tools


E. Retaining Hook F. Jack G. Knob


566


Extended Cab


Extended Cab Short Box


A. Wing Nut


Retaining Wheel Blocks


B. Wheel Blocks C. Retaining Hook D. Jack


E. Knob F. Tool Kit and


Jack Tools


G. Retaining Bracket


and Wing Nut


A. Wing Nut


Retaining Wheel Blocks


B. Wheel Blocks C. Jack D. Retaining Hook


E. Knob F. Retaining Bracket


and Wing Nut G. Tool Kit and


Jack Tools


567


For regular cab models, the equipment you will need is behind the passenger’s seat. For extended and crew cab models, the equipment is on the shelf behind the passenger’s side second row seat. 1. If there is a cover, move the seats


forward and turn the wing nut on the cover counterclockwise to remove it. For crew cab models, pull up the second row seat with the loop at the base of the seat cushion to access the tools.


2. Turn the knob on the jack counterclockwise to


lower the jack head to release the jack from its holder.


3. Remove the wheel blocks and the wheel


block retainer by turning the wing nut counterclockwise.


4. Remove the wing nut used to retain the


storage bag and tools by turning it counterclockwise.


You will use the jack handle extensions and the wheel wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.


568


A. Spare Tire (Valve


Stem Pointed Down)


B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire/Wheel Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of


Extension Tool


G. Hoist Shaft


Access Hole


H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle


Extensions


J. Spare Tire Lock


(If Equipped)


1. Open the spare tire lock cover on the bumper and use the ignition key to remove the lock, if equipped with a spare tire lock (J). To remove the spare tire lock, insert the key, turn and pull straight out.


3. Insert the hoist end


(open end) (F) of the extension through the hole (G) in the rear bumper.


2. Assemble the wheel wrench (H) and the two


jack handle extensions (I) as shown.


Be sure the hoist end of the extension (F) connects to the hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare tire.


4. Turn the wheel wrench (H) counterclockwise


to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to lower. See Secondary Latch System on page 579.


569


5. Use the wheel


wrench hook which allows you to pull the hoist cable towards you to assist in reaching the spare tire.


Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire Use the following pictures and instructions to remove the flat tire and raise the vehicle.


6. Tilt the retainer (D)


at the end of the cable (C) when the tire has been lowered, so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening.


7. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.


570


The tools you will be using include the jack (A), the wheel blocks (B), the jack handle (C), the jack handle extensions (D), and the wheel wrench (E).


1. If your vehicle has


wheel nut caps, loosen them by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise.


If the vehicle has a center cap with wheel nut caps, the wheel nut caps are designed to stay with the center cap after they are loosened. Remove the entire center cap.


If the wheel has a smooth center cap, place the chisel end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel, and gently pry it out.


571


2. Use the wheel wrench and turn it


counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Do not remove the wheel nuts yet.


572


Jacking Locations


A. Front Location (Two-Wheel-Drive 1500 Model) B. Front Location (All Other Models) C. Rear Location (All Models)


3. Position the jack under the vehicle as shown.


If the flat tire is on the front of the vehicle (two-wheel-drive 1500 Model vehicles), position the jack under the bracket attached to the vehicle’s frame, behind the flat tire. If the flat tire is on the front of the vehicle (all other models), position the jack on the frame behind the flat tire. If the flat tire is on the rear, position the jack under the rear axle between the spring anchor and the shock absorber bracket.


If you have added a snow plow to the front of your vehicle, lower the snow plow fully before raising the vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


{CAUTION:


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.


Front Position - All Other Models


573


Rear Position – 2WD Pickup Models


Rear Position – All Other Models


4. Make sure the jack head is positioned so that the rear axle is resting securely between the grooves that are on the jack head.


5. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit under the wheel well.


574


6. Remove all the


wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust (Continued)


CAUTION:


CAUTION:


(Continued)


or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.


7. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces, and spare wheel.


575


8. Install the spare tire.


{CAUTION:


Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.


9. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded


end of the nuts toward the wheel.


10. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use


the wheel wrench to tighten the nuts until the wheel is held against the hub.


576


Front Position - All Models


Front Position - 2WD 1500 Model


Rear Position


11. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to


lower the vehicle. Lower the jack completely.


577


{CAUTION:


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 607
for wheel nut torque specification.


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can


Notice: lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 607 for the wheel nut torque specification.


578


12. Tighten the nuts firmly in a crisscross


sequence as shown by turning the wheel wrench clockwise.


When you reinstall the regular wheel and tire, you must also reinstall either the center cap, or bolt-on hub cap, depending on what your vehicle is equipped with. For center caps, place the cap on the wheel and tap it into place until it seats flush with the wheel. The cap only goes on one way. Be sure to line up the tab on the center cap with the indentation on the wheel. For bolt-on hub caps, align the plastic nut caps with the wheel nuts and then tighten by hand. Then use the wheel wrench to tighten.


Secondary Latch System Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist assembly that has a secondary latch system. It is designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle. For the secondary latch to work, the spare must be installed with the valve stem pointing down. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 582.


{CAUTION:


Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed next.


To release the spare tire from the secondary latch, do the following:


1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable


end is visible. If the cable is not visible, proceed to Step 6. 2. If it is visible, first try to tighten the cable by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.


3. Loosen the cable by turning the wheel wrench


counterclockwise three or four turns.


579


4. Repeat this procedure at least two times. If the spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with Step 5 of Removing the Spare Tire and Tools on page 566.


5. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.


6. Stand the wheel blocks on their shortest ends,


with the backs facing each other.


7. Place the bottom


edge of the jack (A) on the wheel blocks (B), separating them so that the jack is balanced securely.


580


8. Attach the jack handle, extension, and wheel


wrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel blocks) under the vehicle towards the front of the rear bumper.


{CAUTION:


Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from under the spare.


13. Disconnect the jack handle from the jack.


Carefully remove the jack from underneath the vehicle.


14. Use one hand to push against the spare while firmly pulling the jack out from under the spare tire with the other hand. If the spare tire is hanging from the cable, insert the hoist handle, extension, and wheel wrench into the hoist shaft hole in the bumper and turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare the rest of the way.


581


9. Position the center lift point of the jack under


the center of the spare tire.


10. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the


jack until it lifts the end fitting.


11. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire


stops moving upward and is held firmly in place. The secondary latch has released and the spare tire is balancing on the jack.


12. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench


counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by the cable.


15. Tilt the retainer at


the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.


16. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the


cable back up if the cable is hanging under the vehicle.


Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or flat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been replaced. To continue changing the flat tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 570.


582


Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools


{CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


Notice: Storing an aluminum wheel with a flat tire under your vehicle for an extended period of time or with the valve stem pointing up may damage the wheel. Always stow the wheel with the valve stem pointing down and have the wheel/tire repaired as soon as possible. Store the tire under the rear of the vehicle in the spare tire carrier.


Use the following art and text to assist you:


1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the


vehicle with the valve stem pointed down, and to the rear.


A. Spare Tire (Valve


Stem Pointed Down)


B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire/Wheel Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of


Extension Tool


G. Hoist Shaft


Access Hole


H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle


Extensions


J. Spare Tire Lock


(If Equipped)


2. Tilt the retainer (D)


downward and through the wheel opening. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.


583


4. Insert the hoist


end (F) through the hole (G) in the rear bumper. Be sure the hoist end of the extension (F) connects to the hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare tire.


5. Raise the tire part way upward. Make sure the


retainer (D) is seated in the wheel opening. 6. Raise the tire fully against the underside of


the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.


3. Attach the wheel wrench (H) and


extensions (I) as shown.


584


To store the jack and jack tools, do the following:


7. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push,


pull (A), and then try to turn (B) the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable.


8. Reinstall the spare tire lock (if equipped).


A. Wing Nut B. Wheel Blocks C. Retaining Bracket


and Wing Nut D. Wheel Wrench and Extensions


E. Tool Bag F. Mounting Bracket G. Jack H. Retaining Hook


1. Put the tools (D) in the tool bag (E) and place


them in the retaining bracket (C).


2. Tighten down the wing nut (C).


585


3. Assemble the wheel blocks (B) and jack (G) together with the wing nut (A) and retaining hook (H).


4. Position the jack (G) in the mounting


bracket (F). Position the holes in the base of the jack (G) onto the pin in the mounting bracket (F).


5. Return them to their original location in the


vehicle. For more information, refer to Removing the Spare Tire and Tools on page 566 for more information.


Spare Tire Your vehicle, when new, had a fully-inflated spare tire. A spare tire may lose air over time, so check its inflation pressure regularly. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 550 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 403 for information regarding proper tire inflation and loading your vehicle. For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 570 and Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 582.


If your vehicle has four-wheel drive


Notice: and the different size spare tire is installed on your vehicle, do not drive in four-wheel drive until you can have your flat tire repaired and/or replaced. You could damage your vehicle, and the repair costs would not be covered by your warranty. Never use four-wheel drive when the different size spare tire is installed on your vehicle. Your vehicle may have a different size spare tire than the road tires originally installed on your vehicle. This spare tire was developed for use on your vehicle, so it is all right to drive on it. If your vehicle has four-wheel drive and the different size spare tire is installed, keep the vehicle in two-wheel drive. After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare tire is correctly inflated. Have the damaged or flat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, the spare tire will be available in case you need it again.


586


Do not mix tires and wheels of different sizes, because they will not fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. If your vehicle has a spare tire that does not match your vehicle’s original road tires and wheels in size and type, do not include the spare in the tire rotation. Appearance Care


Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly.


Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior. When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners specifically designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth. Notice: cleaning glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning your vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening your vehicle’s doors and windows.


If you use abrasive cleaners when


587


Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles. Your GM dealer has a product for cleaning your vehicle’s glass. Should it become necessary, you can also obtain a product from your GM dealer to remove odors from your vehicle’s upholstery. Do not clean your vehicle using the following cleaners or techniques: (cid:127) Never use a knife or any other sharp object to


remove a soil from any interior surface.


(cid:127) Never use a stiff brush. It can cause damage


to your vehicle’s interior surfaces. (cid:127) Never apply heavy pressure or rub


aggressively with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage your interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal.


(cid:127) Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps. Avoid


laundry detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers. Using too much soap will leave a residue that leaves streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide.


588


(cid:127) Do not heavily saturate your upholstery while


cleaning.


(cid:127) Damage to your vehicle’s interior may result from the use of many organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc.


Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on floor carpet and carpeted floor mats. For soils, always try to remove them first with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques: (cid:127) For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a


paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed.


(cid:127) For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible


and then vacuum.


Leather A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used. Allow the leather to dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. Never use steam to clean leather. Never use spot lifters or spot removers on leather. Many commercial leather cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect leather may permanently change the appearance and feel of your leather and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Never use shoe polish on your leather.


To clean, use the following instructions: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with


water or club soda.


2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture. 3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently


rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled.


4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the


cleaning cloth remains clean.


5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild soap solution and repeat the cleaning process that was used with plain water.


If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a small hidden area for colorfastness first. If the locally cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation may result, clean the entire surface. After the cleaning process has been completed, a paper towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the fabric or carpet.


589


Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a clean soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used to gently remove dust and dirt. Never use spot lifters or removers on plastic surfaces. Many commercial cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect soft plastic surfaces may permanently change the appearance and feel of your interior and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Some commercial products may increase gloss on your instrument panel. The increase in gloss may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.


Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.


{CAUTION:


Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.


Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 626.


590


Washing Your Vehicle The paint finish on the vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention, and durability. The best way to preserve the vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Do not wash the vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Do not use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. GM-approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 595. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter the vehicle.


Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under Washing Your Vehicle on page 591.


Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/ Appearance Materials on page 595. If your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish, the clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/ clearcoat paint finish on your vehicle.


591


Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap, or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a glass cleaning liquid or powder and water solution. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when it is rinsed with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.


Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.


592


If you use strong soaps, chemicals,


Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels Your vehicle may have either aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. Keep the wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. Notice: abrasive polishes, cleaners, brushes, or cleaners that contain acid on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels, you could damage the surface of the wheel(s). The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use only GM-approved cleaners on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Do not use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels.


Notice: Using chrome polish on aluminum wheels could damage the wheels. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use chrome polish on chrome wheels only. Use chrome polish only on chrome-plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application. Notice: If you drive your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes, you could damage the aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never drive a vehicle equipped with aluminum or chrome-plated wheels through an automatic car wash that uses silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. Do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.


593


Tires To clean the tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing products on your vehicle may damage the paint finish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing, always wipe off any overspray from all painted surfaces on your vehicle.


Sheet Metal Damage If the vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.


Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan, and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.


594


Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on the vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations, and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.


Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials


Description


Usage


Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated


Tar and Road Oil Remover


Interior and exterior polishing cloth.


Removes tar, road oil, and asphalt.


Chrome Cleaner and Polish


Use on chrome or stainless steel.


White Sidewall Tire Cleaner


Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls.


Vinyl Cleaner


Cleans vinyl.


Glass Cleaner


Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner


Finish Enhancer


Swirl Remover Polish


Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints.


Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers.


Removes dust, fingerprints, and surface contaminants. Spray on and wipe off.


Removes swirl marks, fine scratches, and other light surface contamination.


595


Description


Usage


Vehicle Identification


Cleaner Wax


Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss


Wash Wax Concentrate


Spot Lifter


Odor Eliminator


Removes light scratches and protects finish.


Cleans, shines, and protects in one step. No wiping necessary.


Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free.


Quickly removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl, and cloth

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