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So here are some tips for passing: (cid:127) Drive ahead. Look down the road, to the

sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.

(cid:127) Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings,

and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it is all right to pass, providing the road ahead is clear. Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.

(cid:127) Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you are awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you are following a larger vehicle. Also, you will not have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.

(cid:127) When it looks like a chance to pass is coming

up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and do not get too close. Time your move

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so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a running start that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone is not trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.

(cid:127)

(cid:127) Check your vehicle’s mirrors, glance over your

shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your vehicle’s inside mirror, activate the right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. Remember that, if your vehicle’s passenger side outside mirror is convex, the vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.

(cid:127) Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.

(cid:127) Do not overtake a slowly moving vehicle too

rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you are being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

(cid:127)

Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.

Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If you have the Traction Assist System (TAS), remember: It helps avoid only the acceleration skid. See Traction Assist System (TAS) on page 357. If you do not have this system, or if the system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.

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If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

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Off-Road Driving This off-road guide is for vehicles that have four-wheel drive. Also, see Braking on page 354. If your vehicle is an SS Model or does not have four-wheel drive, you should not drive off-road unless you are on a level, solid surface. If your vehicle has 20-inch tire/wheel assemblies, do not use your vehicle for off-road driving. See Tires on page 541. Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. “Off-roading” means you have left the great North American road system behind. Traffic lanes are not marked. Curves are not banked. There are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill. In short, you have gone right back to nature. Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that is why it is very important that you read this guide. You will find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable.

If you think you will need some more ground clearance at the front of your vehicle, you can remove the front bumper lower air dam.

The following steps must be performed on each of the push-pins to remove the air dam:

1. Insert a tool into the

push-pin slot and pull downward until the push-pin snaps loose.

The front bumper lower air dam is held in place by a series of push-pins located around the lower edge of the front bumper. The push-pins are accessible from underneath the front bumper.

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2. While continuing to

pull downward on the push-pin, squeeze and turn the expandable end of the push-pin with a tool until it releases from the retainer.

When you are back on roads, though, be sure to replace the air dam. Notice: Operating your vehicle for extended periods without the front bumper lower air dam installed can cause improper air flow to the engine and may allow things like fog lamps or tow hooks on the front of your vehicle to be damaged. Always be sure to replace the front bumper air dam when you are finished off-road driving.

3. Pull the push-pins

and lower dam assembly away from the retainers until the lower dam is free.

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To reinstall the lower air dam, do the following:

1. Line up each

push-pin with its intended retainer and push the washer portion of the push-pin toward the retainer until it locks into place.

2. Push the flat end of the push-pin toward the retainer until it locks into place, making sure each is secure.

Before You Go Off-Roading There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Check to make sure all underbody shields, if the vehicle has them, are properly attached. Be sure you read all the information about your four-wheel-drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you will be driving? If you do not know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission.

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There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle. (cid:127) The heaviest things should be on the load

floor and forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can. (cid:127) Be sure the load is secured properly, so

driving on the off-road terrain does not toss things around.

You will find other important information in this manual. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 403
and Tires on page 541.

Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving

{CAUTION:

(cid:127) Cargo on the load floor piled higher

than the seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.

(cid:127) Unsecured cargo on the load floor can

be tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.

(cid:127) Heavy loads on the roof raise the

vehicle’s center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.

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Environmental Concerns Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. We recognize these concerns and urge every off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment: (cid:127) Always use established trails, roads, and areas

that have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving; obey all posted regulations.

(cid:127) Avoid any driving practice that could damage

the environment — shrubs, flowers, trees, grasses — or disturb wildlife. This includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees, or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground.

(cid:127) Always carry a litter bag — make sure all

refuse is removed from any campsite before leaving.

(cid:127) Take extreme care with open fires (where

permitted), camp stoves and lanterns.

(cid:127) Never park your vehicle over dry grass or

other combustible materials that could catch fire from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.

Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads. It is also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly. Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you will want to know how to use it properly.

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Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It is a good idea to practice in an area that is safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and different driving skills. Here is what we mean. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet and body, you will need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce. Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed.

Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds: (cid:127) You approach things faster and you have less

time to scan the terrain for obstacles.

(cid:127) You have less time to react. (cid:127) You have more vehicle bounce when you

drive over obstacles.

(cid:127) You will need more distance for braking, especially since you are on an unpaved surface.

{CAUTION:

When you are driving off-road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you are driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

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Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider.

Surface Conditions: Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow, or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration, and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and longer braking distances.

Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you are not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow, or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider: (cid:127) (cid:127) Will the surface texture change abruptly up

Is the path ahead clear?

ahead?

(cid:127) Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? There is more discussion of these subjects later.

(cid:127) Will you have to stop suddenly or change

direction quickly?

When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you are not prepared.

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When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you cannot control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it is especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits, or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what is not. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious — or even fatal — accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. See Drunken Driving on page 351.

Driving on Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and cannot do. There are some hills that simply cannot be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you cannot control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, do not drive the hill.

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Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it is one of those hills that is just too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs. Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill. (cid:127)

Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping?

(cid:127)

(cid:127)

Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you will not have to make turning maneuvers?

(cid:127) Are there obstructions on the hill that can

block your path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts?

(cid:127) What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to find out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

(cid:127)

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(cid:127) Ease up on your speed as you approach the

top of the hill.

(cid:127) Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

(cid:127) Sound the horn as you approach the top of the

hill to let opposing traffic know you are there. (cid:127) Use your headlamps even during the day. They

make you more visible to oncoming traffic.

{CAUTION:

Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps. (cid:127) Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the

steering wheel.

(cid:127) Get a smooth start up the hill and try to

maintain your speed. Do not use more power than you need, because you do not want your wheels to start spinning or sliding.

(cid:127) Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

{CAUTION:

Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

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Q: What should I do if my vehicle stalls,

or is about to stall, and I cannot make it up the hill?

A: If this happens, there are some things you should do, and there are some things you must not do. First, here is what you should do:

(cid:127) Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle

(cid:127)

(cid:127)

and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake. If your engine is still running, shift the transmission to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R). If your engine has stopped running, you will need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or shift to NEUTRAL if your vehicle has a manual transmission) and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).

(cid:127) As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you will be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It is best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill. (cid:127) Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into

NEUTRAL (N) (or pressing the clutch, if you have a manual transmission) to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control. Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

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(cid:127) Never attempt to turn around if you are about to

stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you cannot make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the hill and decide I just cannot do it. What should I do?

A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in PARK (P), or the manual transmission in FIRST (1), and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

{CAUTION:

Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) (or, if you have the manual transmission, even if you are in gear). This is because the NEUTRAL position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or, put your manual transmission in FIRST (1)). But do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. Leave the transfer case in the Two-Wheel High, Four-Wheel High or Four-Wheel Low position.

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Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you will want to consider a number of things: (cid:127) How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to

maintain vehicle control?

(cid:127) What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?

Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?

(cid:127) Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts?

Logs? Boulders?

(cid:127) What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a

hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they will not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

{CAUTION:

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

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Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill? A: It is much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it happens going downhill, here is what to do.

1. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular

brakes. Apply the parking brake.

2. Shift to PARK (P), or to NEUTRAL with the

manual transmission, and, while still braking, restart the engine.

3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking

brake, and drive straight down.

4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help.

Q: Are there some things I should not do

when driving down a hill?

A: Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose control and have a serious accident.

(cid:127) When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you do not drive straight down.

(cid:127) Never go downhill with the transmission in

NEUTRAL (N), or with the clutch pedal pressed down with a manual transmission. This is called “free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

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Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider: (cid:127) A hill that can be driven straight up or down

may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

(cid:127) Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over.

(cid:127) Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.

For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

{CAUTION:

Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead.

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Q: What if I am driving across an incline that

is not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do?

A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide

sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

Stalling on an Incline If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

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{CAUTION:

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, your wheels will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer braking distances. If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, see Four-Wheel Drive on page 153 for transfer case mode selection. It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do not get stuck. When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

{CAUTION:

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

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Driving in Water Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it is deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts. If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

{CAUTION:

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water.

See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 386
for more information on driving through water.

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After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving. (cid:127) Drive defensively. (cid:127) Do not drink and drive.

(cid:127) Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the

glare from headlamps behind you.

(cid:127) Since you cannot see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.

(cid:127) Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

(cid:127) (cid:127)

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.

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You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare, as from a driver who does not lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps, slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep the windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that the headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as the headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and are not even aware of it.

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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you cannot stop, accelerate, or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires do not have much tread left, you will get even less traction.

It is always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, see Four-Wheel Drive on page 153 for transfer case mode selection. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It is wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer fluid reservoir filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

{CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They may not work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow down before you hit them.

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If you drive too quickly through

Driving Through Deep Standing Water Notice: deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops dimple the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.

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Driving Through Flowing Water

{CAUTION:

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips (cid:127) Turn on your low-beam headlamps — not just your parking lamps — to help make you more visible to others.

(cid:127) Besides slowing down, allow some extra

following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.

(cid:127) Have good tires with proper tread depth.

See Tires on page 541.

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Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: (cid:127) Know the best way to get to where you are

going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

(cid:127) Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross

most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 391.

(cid:127) Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways — also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways — are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.

The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal.

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Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your blind spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.

Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They will be ready and willing to help if you need it.

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Here are some things you can check before a trip: (cid:127) Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir

full? Are all windows clean inside and outside?

(cid:127) Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? (cid:127) Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you

checked all levels?

(cid:127) Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses

clean?

(cid:127) Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?

(cid:127) Weather Forecasts: What is the weather

outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?

(cid:127) Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as highway hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: (cid:127) Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with

a comfortably cool interior.

(cid:127) Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

(cid:127)

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. See Off-Road Driving on page 366 for information about driving off-road. (cid:127) Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all

fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system, and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

{CAUTION:

If you do not shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

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{CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

(cid:127) Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

(cid:127) Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift

down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.

(cid:127) Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

(cid:127) As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

(cid:127) You may see highway signs on mountains that

warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

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Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be very careful.

Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:127) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:127) You may want to put winter emergency

supplies in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 541.

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Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. If you have the Traction Assist System (TAS), it will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. But you can turn the TAS off if you ever need to. You should turn the TAS off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 400. Even though your vehicle has TAS, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you may want to turn the TAS off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. See Traction Assist System (TAS) on page 357. If you do not have TAS, accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

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What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.

The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 355. (cid:127) Allow greater following distance on any

slippery road.

(cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: (cid:127) Turn on your hazard flashers. (cid:127) Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police

that you have been stopped by the snow.

(cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around

you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

{CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.

{CAUTION:

If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

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Notice: Spinning the wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting the transmission back and forth, you can destroy the transmission. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 562.

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around the front wheels. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into Four-Wheel High. If your vehicle has the Traction Assist System (TAS), you should turn it off by pressing the TAS on/off button. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it may need to be towed out. If your vehicle is not an SS model, you can use the recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 417.

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Recovery Hooks (Except SS Model) Notice: SS Models have recovery hooks that are concealed by the front bumper trim covering. Use of the recovery hooks could cause damage to your vehicle. If you have the SS Model, do not use the recovery hooks.

{CAUTION:

These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

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Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty. Your vehicle may have recovery hooks at the front of the vehicle. You may need to use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.

{CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Tire and Loading Information Label

Label Example

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.

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4. The resulting figure equals the available

amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).

5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.

6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load

from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 423 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.

The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 541 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 550. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined

weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.

2. Determine the combined weight of the driver

and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.

3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.

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Example 1

Example 2

Item

Description

Total

Item

Description

Total

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

300 lbs (136 kg)

700 lbs (317 kg)

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

750 lbs (136 kg)

250 lbs (113 kg)

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Certification/Tire Label

Example 3

Item

Description

Total

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

1000 lbs (453 kg)

0 lbs (0 kg)

Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.

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A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR).

To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. The Certification/Tire label also contains important information about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. See “What is front axle reserve capacity, and how do I calculate it?” under Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment on page 410.

{CAUTION:

In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things carried in the bed of your truck could shift forward and come into the passenger area, injuring you and others. If you put things in the bed of your truck, you should make sure they are properly secured.

{CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.

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If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.

{CAUTION:

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

(cid:127) Put things in the cargo area of your

vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like

suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child

restraint in your vehicle.

(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down

unless you need to.

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There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving“ under Off-Road Driving on page 366. Two-Tiered Loading By positioning four 2 inches (5 cm) by 6 inches (15 cm) wooden planks across the width of the pickup box, you can create an upper load platform. The planks must be inserted in the pickup box depressions. The length of the planks must allow for at least a 3/4 inch (2 cm) bearing surface on each end of the plank. When using this upper load platform, be sure the load is securely tied down to prevent it from shifting. The load’s center of gravity should be positioned in a zone over the rear axle. The zone is located in the area between the front of each wheel well and the rear of each wheel well. The center of gravity height must not extend above the top of the pickup box flareboard. Any load that extends beyond the vehicle’s taillamp area must be properly marked according to local laws and regulations. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle.

Add-On Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle.

Maximum Weight *Equipment 750 lbs (340 kg) Ladder Rack and Cargo Cross Toolbox and Cargo 400 lbs (181 kg) 250 lbs per side Side Boxes and Cargo (113 kg per side)

*The combined weight for all rail-mounted equipment should not exceed 1,000 lbs (454 kg), excluded 1500
crew cab models with 5 ft 8 in (173 cm) box length. A reinforcement kit for rail-mounted add-on equipment is recommended. See your dealer. Ladder racks are not recommended for 1500 crew cab models with 5 ft 8 in (173 cm) pick-up box length. Maximum recommended cross-mounted toolbox and cargo weight is 300 lbs (136 kg) for the 1500 crew cab with 5 ft 8 in (173 cm) pick-up box length.

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Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment Before installing a snow plow on your vehicle, here are some things you will need to know: Notice: If your vehicle does not have the snow plow prep package, adding a plow can damage your vehicle, and the repairs would not be covered by warranty. Unless your vehicle was built to carry a snow plow, do not add one to your vehicle. If your vehicle has the snow plow prep package, called RPO VYU, then the payload your vehicle can carry will be reduced when a snow plow is installed. Your vehicle can be damaged if either the front or rear axle ratings or the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) are exceeded.

Q: How do I know if my vehicle can handle a

snow plow?

A: Some vehicles are built with a special snow plow prep package, called RPO VYU. If your vehicle has this option, you can add a plow to it, provided certain weights, such as the weights on the vehicle’s axles and the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW), are not exceeded.

Q: How heavy can a snow plow safely be? A: The plow your vehicle can carry depends on

many things, such as:

(cid:127) The options your vehicle came with, and the

weight of those options.

(cid:127) The weight and number of passengers you

intend to carry.

(cid:127) The weight of items you have added to your

vehicle, like a tool box or truck cap.

(cid:127) The total weight of any additional cargo you

intend to carry.

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Say, for example, you have a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow. The total weight of all occupants and cargo inside the cab should not exceed 300 lb (135 kg). This means that you may only be able to carry one passenger. But, even this may be too much if you have got other equipment already adding to the weight of your vehicle. Here are some guidelines for safely carrying a snow plow on your vehicle: (cid:127) Make sure the weight on the front and rear

axles does not exceed the axle rating for each. (cid:127) For the front axle, if more cargo or passengers

must be carried, appropriate counter ballast must be installed rear of the rear axle. Counter ballast must be properly secured so it will not move during driving.

(cid:127) Follow the snow plow manufacturer’s

recommendations regarding rear ballast. Rear ballast may be required to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual weight at the front axle may be less than the front axle rating.

(cid:127) The snow plow manufacturer or installer can assist you in determining the amount of rear ballast required, to help make sure your snowplow/vehicle combination does not exceed the GVW rating, the front and rear axle ratings, and the front and rear weight distribution ratio.

(cid:127) The total vehicle must not exceed the GVW

rating.

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Q: What is front axle reserve capacity, and

how do I calculate it?

A: Front axle reserve capacity is the difference between your front Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the front axle weight of your vehicle with full fuel and passengers. Basically, it is the amount of weight you can add to your front axle before reaching your front GAWR.

The front axle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the Certification/Tire label, as shown.

United States

Canada

412

In order to calculate the amount of weight any front accessory, such as a snow plow, is adding to the front axle, use the following formula:

(W x (A + W.B.)) /W.B.= Weight the accessory is adding to the front axle. Where: W = Weight of added accessory A = Distance that the accessory is in front of the front axle W.B. = Vehicle Wheelbase

For example, adding a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow actually adds more than 700 lbs (318 kg) to the front axle. Using the formula, if the snow plow is 4 ft (122 cm) in front of the front axle and the wheel base is 10 ft (305 cm), then: W = 700 lb (318 kg) A = 4 ft (122 cm) W.B. = 10 ft (305 cm) (W x (A + W.B.))/W.B. = (700 x (4 + 10))/10 = 980 lbs (445 kg) So, if your truck’s front axle reserve capacity is more than 980 lbs (445 kg), you could add the snow plow without exceeding the front GAWR.

Q: What if I want to add heavier equipment

to my vehicle?

A: You can add heavier equipment on the front

of the vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer passengers, less cargo, or by positioning cargo towards the rear. This has the effect of reducing the load on the front. However, the front GAWR, rear GAWR, and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) must never be exceeded.

{CAUTION:

On some vehicles that have certain front mounted equipment, such as a snow plow, it may be possible to load the front axle to the front gross axle weight rating (GAWR) but not have enough weight on the rear axle to have proper braking performance. If your brakes can not work properly, you could have a crash. To help your brakes work properly when a snow plow is installed, always follow the snow plow manufacturer or installer’s recommendation for rear ballast to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual front weight may be less than the front GAWR, and the total vehicle weight is less than the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). Maintaining a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio is necessary to provide proper braking performance.

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Emergency Roof Lamp Provisions Vehicles with the RPO VYU snow plow prep package also have an emergency roof lamp provision package, RPO TRW. Wiring for the emergency roof lamp is provided in the B-pillar as shown. See Auxiliary Roof Mounted Lamp on page 224 for switch location.

Q: What is total vehicle reserve capacity? A: This is the difference between your GVWR and

the weight of your truck with full fuel and passengers. It is the amount of weight you can add to your vehicle before reaching your GVWR. Keep in mind that reserve capacity numbers are intended as a guide when selecting the amount of equipment or cargo your truck can carry. If you are unsure of your vehicle’s front, rear, or total weight, go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can also help you with this. The total vehicle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the Certification/Tire label as shown previously.

See your dealer for additional advice and information about using a snow plow on your vehicle. Also, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 403.

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A. Body Side Inner Panel B. Emergency Roof Lamp Harness

Installing a truck-camper to a

Truck-Camper Loading Information Notice: vehicle that is equipped with the SS trim package could damage the vehicle. Do not install a truck-camper on a vehicle equipped with the SS trim package. A vehicle specific Truck-Camper Loading information label is attached to the inside of your vehicle’s glove box. This label will tell you if your vehicle can carry a slide-in camper, how much of a load your vehicle can carry, and how to correctly spread out the load. Also, it will help you match the right slide-in camper to your vehicle. When you carry a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of your vehicle is the weight of the camper, plus the following: (cid:127) Everything else added to the camper after it

left the factory

(cid:127) Everything in the camper (cid:127) All the people inside The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It does not include the weight of the people inside. But, you can figure about 150 lbs (68 kg) for each seat.

The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR. Refer to the Truck-Camper Loading Information label in the glove box for dimensions A and B as shown in the following illustration.

Use the rear edge of the load floor for measurement purposes. The recommended location for the cargo center of gravity is at point C for the CWR. It is the point where the mass of a body is concentrated and, if suspended at that point, would balance the front and rear.

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Here is an example of proper truck and camper match:

A. Camper Center of Gravity B. Recommended Center of Gravity Location Zone When the truck is used to carry a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of the truck consists of the manufacturer’s camper weight figure, the weight of installed additional camper equipment not included in the manufacturer’s camper weight figure, the weight of camper cargo, and the weight of passengers in the camper. The total cargo load should not exceed the truck’s cargo weight rating and the camper’s center of gravity (A) should fall within the truck’s recommended center of gravity zone (B) when installed.

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You must weigh any accessories or other equipment that you add to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra weight may shorten the center of gravity zone of your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. If your slide-in camper and its load weighs less than the CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger. Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper match and help you determine the CWR. After you have loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and weigh the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on the axles. The loads on the front and rear axles should not be more than either of the Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR). The total of the axle loads should not be more than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). Open the driver’s door and look at the Certification/ Tire label to find out your vehicle’s GAWRs and GVWR. If your vehicle has gone over the weight ratings, move or take out some things until all the weight falls below the ratings.

Secure loose items to prevent weight shifts that could affect the balance of your vehicle. When the truck-camper is loaded, drive to a scale and weigh the front and the rear wheels separately to determine axle loads. Individual axle loads should not exceed either of the GAWRs. The total of the front and rear axle loads should not exceed your vehicle’s GVWR. These ratings are given on the vehicle certification label attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. See “Certification/Tire Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 403. If weight ratings are exceeded, move or remove items to bring all weights below the ratings. When you install and load your slide-in camper, check the manufacturer’s instructions. If you want more information on curb weights, cargo weights, Cargo Weight Rating and the correct center of gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer can help you. Just ask for a copy of “Consumer Information, Truck-Camper Loading.”

Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may consider having the pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed. Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which may affect vehicle safety. The components necessary to adapt a pickup to permit its safe use with a specialized body should be installed by the body builder. Towing

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 642. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.

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Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing, towing your vehicle will all four wheels on the ground, and dolly towing, towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”. With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.

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(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment?

(cid:127)

See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 392.

If you tow your vehicle with all

Dinghy Towing Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: four wheels on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed.

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK (P),

or a manual transmission to FIRST (1).

2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 3. Firmly set the parking brake. 4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the

tow vehicle.

5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See

Four-Wheel Drive on page 153 for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.

6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

7. Turn the ignition off and leave the steering

column unlocked.

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If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle

Dolly Towing Front Towing (Front Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: with the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. To dolly tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle, you must tow the vehicle with the rear wheels on the dolly. See “Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)” later in this section for more information.

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Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Drive the vehicle up onto the tow dolly. 2. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK (P),

or a manual transmission to FIRST (1).

3. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 4. Firmly set the parking brake. 5. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the

tow dolly.

{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

6. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See

Four-Wheel Drive on page 153 for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.

7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

8. Turn the ignition off and lock the steering

column.

Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from the rear: 1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly. 2. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking

Brake on page 170

3. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or

a manual transmission in FIRST (1).

4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to attach and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle. Make sure the wheels are straight before towing. For manual transmission vehicles, make sure the wheels are straight before proceeding to the next steps. On automatic transmission vehicles, use an adequate clamping device to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.

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5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.

6. Turn the ignition to LOCK. Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from the rear: 1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly. 2. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking

Brake on page 170

3. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or

a manual transmission in FIRST (1).

4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to attach and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle. For manual transmission vehicles, make sure the wheels are straight before proceeding to the next steps. On automatic transmission vehicles, use an adequate clamping device to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.

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{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See

Four-Wheel Drive on page 153

6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.

7. Turn the ignition to LOCK.

Towing a Trailer Do not tow a trailer during break-in. See New Vehicle Break-In on page 133 for more information.

{CAUTION: