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most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.


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Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


5-7


Filling Your Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


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The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, let the fuel cap hang by the tether below the fuel fill opening.


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-35.


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-89. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it to the right (clockwise) until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-35.


5-9


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


Checking Things Under the Hood


{CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


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Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the handle located inside the vehicle near the parking brake pedal.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the


secondary hood latch, located near the center of the hood front, by pushing the latch to the right.


3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.


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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3400 V6 (Code E) engine, here is what you will see:


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A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-42.


I. Engine Coolant Air Bleed Valves (underneath engine


shield). See “How to Add Coolant to the Radiator” under Cooling System on page 5-34.


B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-47. C. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-48.


D. Upper Underhood Fuse Block. See “Underhood


Fuse Block (Upper)” under Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-99.


E. Lower Underhood Fuse Block. See “Underhood


Fuse Block (Lower)” under Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-99.


F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See “Checking


Coolant” under Cooling System on page 5-34.


G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap


on page 5-31.


H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-41.


J. Electric Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on


page 5-34.


K. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


L. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


M. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking


the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-26.


N. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-44.


O. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-24.


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When you open the hood on the 3800 V6 (Code K) engine, here is what you will see:


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A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-42.


B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-47. C. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-48.


D. Upper Underhood Fuse Block. See “Underhood


Fuse Block (Upper)” under Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-99.


E. Lower Underhood Fuse Block. See “Underhood


Fuse Block (Lower)” under Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-99.


F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See “Checking


Coolant” under Cooling System on page 5-34.


G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap


on page 5-31.


H. Electric Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on


page 5-34.


I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (low in engine


compartment). See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-41.


J. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


K. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


L. Engine Coolant Air Bleed Valves (underneath engine


shield). See “How to Add Coolant to the Radiator” under Cooling System on page 5-34.


M. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking


the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-26.


N. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-44.


O. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-24.


5-15


When you open the hood on the 3800 V6 Supercharged (Code 1) engine, here is what you will see:


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A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-42.


B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-47. C. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap


on page 5-31.


D. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block


on page 5-99.


E. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Battery on


page 5-47.


F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See “Checking


Coolant” under Cooling System on page 5-34. G. Electric Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on


page 5-34.


H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (below generator).


See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-41.


I. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


J. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


K. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking


the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-26.


L. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under


Brakes on page 5-44.


M. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-24.


5-17


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


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3400 V6 Engine


3800 V6 Engine


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-102. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


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(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


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Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. See Change Engine Oil Message on page 3-44. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


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How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, the system must be reset. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message, use one of the following procedures: Using the Radio 1. Turn the ignition to ACC or ON, with the radio off. 2. Press and hold the TUNE DISP knob on the


radio for at least five seconds until SETTINGS is displayed.


3. Press the SEEK PSCAN up or down arrow to scroll


through the main menu.


4. Scroll until OIL LIFE appears on the display. 5. Press the 1 PREV or 2 NEXT buttons to enter the


submenu. RESET will be displayed.


6. Press the TUNE DISP knob to reset. A chime will be heard to verify the new setting and DONE will be displayed for one second.


7. Once the indicator has been reset, scroll until EXIT


appears on the display.


8. Press the TUNE DISP knob to exit programming. A


chime will be heard to verify the exit.


9. Turn the key to OFF. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. Using the Accelerator Pedal 1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly


three times within five seconds. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message flashes, the system is reset. However, if it stays on, it did not reset. Repeat the procedure.


3. Turn the key to OFF. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.


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What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


Supercharger Oil Unless you are technically qualified and have the proper tools, you should let your dealer perform this maintenance. When to Check Check oil level every 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or every 36 months, whichever occurs first. What Kind of Oil to Use Use only the recommended supercharger oil. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


5-23


How to Check and Add Oil


{CAUTION:


If you remove the supercharger oil fill plug while the engine is hot, pressure may cause hot oil to blow out of the oil fill hole. You may be burned. Do not remove the plug until the engine cools.


Park the vehicle on a level surface. Check oil only when the engine is cold. Allow the engine to cool two to three hours after running.


1. Clean the area around the oil fill plug before


removing it.


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2. Remove the oil fill plug. 3. The oil level is correct when it just reaches the


bottom of the threads of the inspection hole. 4. Replace the oil plug with the O-ring in place.


Tighten to 88 lb-in (10 Y).


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace at the first oil change after 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.


To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following:


1. Loosen the two clips on the top of the engine air cleaner/filter housing and lift the filter cover tabs out of the housing.


2. Push the filter cover housing toward the engine. 3. Pull out the filter. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. See


Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13.


5. To reinstall the cover, position the tabs through the


slots on the housing. A notch on the sides of the filter cover will indicate the correct engagement. Reinstall the two clips on the top of the housing when you are finished.


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flame if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can


Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


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Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:


In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.


(cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


5-26


How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.


In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.


(cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: (cid:127) Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine


running.


(cid:127) With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


(cid:127) With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.


Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag


or paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of


the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.


The transaxle fluid dipstick handle is the black loop near the rear of the engine compartment, toward the center. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


3400 V6 engine shown,


3800 V6 and


3800 V6 Supercharged


engines similar


3400 V6 engine shown,


3800 V6 and


3800 V6 Supercharged


engines similar


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


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(cid:127) How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the


dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.


Notice: Use of automatic transaxle fluid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transaxle fluid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check,” earlier in this section.


4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating or if you need to add coolant to your radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 5-31. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


(cid:127) If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


If you use the proper coolant, you do not


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


5-29


Checking Coolant


The coolant recovery tank is located between the power steering fluid reservoir and the underhood fuse block in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the HOT mark or a little higher.


Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See Engine Overheating on page 5-31.


{CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


5-30


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-34.


Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: The radiator cap on your vehicle is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck. The radiator pressure cap is located in the front of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, near the diagonal cross brace. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage and a warning message about a hot engine on your instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-34 and Hot Coolant Temperature Warning Message on page 3-42.


5-31


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-33 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


If your engine catches fire because you keep


Notice: driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-33 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning along with a low coolant message can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.


5-32


(cid:127) (cid:127) If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the windows as necessary.


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The low coolant light may come on and the temperature gage will indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-18.


5-33


Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


3400 V6 engine


A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Radiator Pressure Cap


5-34


3800 V6 engine shown, 3800 V6 Supercharged


engine similar A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Radiator Pressure Cap


{CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-33 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant recovery tank is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12. To check the coolant level, look for the COLD mark on the side of the coolant recovery tank that faces the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the COLD mark on the coolant recovery tank. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


5-35


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


5-36


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator Notice: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.


1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when


the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


5-37


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push


down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


3. If you have the 3800 V6 engine, remove the


3800 Series II V6 engine cover shield to access the bleed valve.


5-38


3.1. Clean the area around the engine oil fill tube


and cap before removing. Twist the oil fill tube, with cap attached, counterclockwise and remove it.


3.2. Lift the engine cover shield at the front, slide


the catch tab out of the engine bracket and remove the cover shield.


3.3. Put the oil fill tube, with cap attached, in the valve cover oil fill hole until you are ready to replace the cover shield.


4. After the engine cools, open the coolant air bleed


valve or valves.


3400 V6 Bleed Valve #1


3400 V6 Bleed Valve #2


3400 V6 engine: There are two bleed valves. The first is located on the thermostat housing. The second is located on the thermostat bypass tube, on top of the water pump housing.


3800 Series II V6 Bleed Valve


3800 V6 engine: There is one bleed valve. It is located on the thermostat housing.


5-39


7. If you have the 3800 V6 engine, replace the


3800 Series II V6 engine cover shield.


7.1. Remove the oil fill tube, with cap attached,


from the valve cover.


7.2. Insert the catch tab on the cover shield


under the bracket on the engine.


7.3. Place the hole in the cover shield over the


hole in the valve cover. Install oil fill tube and cap by twisting clockwise.


5. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®


coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valves after the radiator is filled.


6. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine


and the compartment.


5-40


8. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the COLD mark. 9. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but


leave the radiator pressure cap off.


10. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the


upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.


11. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


12. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during


this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrow on the pressure cap lines up properly.


13. Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level in


the coolant recovery tank should be at the HOT mark when the engine is hot or at the COLD mark when the engine is cold.


Power Steering Fluid


The power steering fluid reservoir is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


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What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment


cool down.


2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a


clean rag.


4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on


the dipstick.


When the 3400 V6 engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the H (hot) mark. When it is cold, the level should be at the C (cold) mark. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid. For the 3800 V6 engine, the level should be at the HOT mark when the engine compartment is hot. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid.


5-42


Adding Washer Fluid


United States


Canada


When this message is displayed in the message center, it means the vehicle is low on windshield washer fluid. You should add more windshield washer fluid soon. See Low Washer Fluid Warning Message on page 3-46 for more information.


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the


manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


5-43


(cid:127) So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-32.


Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.


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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-86.


5-45


(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.


5-46


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location.


Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-48 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-87.


5-47


Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


5-48


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose. The remote positive (+) terminal is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, next to the upper underhood fuse block. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, lift the plastic cap. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


5-49


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−), or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


5-50


6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)


terminal location of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal location of the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location of the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at


least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If


it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


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If the jumper cables are removed in the


Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other


vehicle.


5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its


original position.


Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


5-52


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low beam may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your dealer for service. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-56. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.


5-53


Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps


To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11


for more information. 2. Remove the air baffle.


A. Parking/Turn Signal Lamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. High-Beam Headlamp


3. Remove the two headlamp fasteners by pulling up


on them.


5-54


9. Install the new bulb by inserting the smallest tab on


the bulb base into the matching notch in the retaining ring. Turn the bulb a quarter-turn clockwise until it stops.


10. Reverse Steps 1 through 5 to reinstall the headlamp


assembly.


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Sidemarker Lamps


A. Rear Sidemarker Lamp B. Taillamps/Turn Signal and Stoplamp


5-55


4. Pull the headlamp assembly gently away from the


vehicle and remove the electrical connector.


5. Remove the round dust caps to gain access to


the bulbs.


6. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and remove it


from the retaining ring by gently pulling it away from the headlamp.


7. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by


raising the lock tab and pulling the connector away from the bulb’s base.


8. Install the electrical connector to the bulb.


To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-10 for more


information.


2. Remove the convenience net, if your vehicle has


one. Unhook the net from the upper wing nut.


3. Remove the two upper (convenience net) wing nuts. 4. Pull the carpet away from the rear of the vehicle. 5. Remove the two remaining hex nuts. 6. Pull the assembly from the body carefully. 7. Remove the socket. To do so, press the tab, turn it


counterclockwise and pull it out.


8. Pull the old bulb out. Do not twist it. 9. Push the new bulb into the socket. 10. Reverse Steps 1 through 5 to reinstall the taillamp


assembly.


Back-Up Lamps The back-up lamps are located in the applique, on the rear of the trunk lid. To replace a bulb, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-10 for


more information.


2. Remove the nine hex nuts.


5-56


3. Pull the rear trunk applique away from the vehicle. 4. Remove the socket. To do so, press the tab,


turn it counterclockwise and pull it out.


5. Pull the old bulb out. Do not twist it. 6. Push the new bulb into the socket. 7. Reinstall the socket in the assembly. Tighten the


socket by turning it clockwise.


8. Reinstall the applique and the nine hex nuts.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamp


Back-Up


Front Parking/Turn Signal


Headlamps


High-beam Low-beam


Stoplamps, Taillamps, and Turn Signal


Bulb Number


921


3357NAK or


3457NAK


9005
9006


3057


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.


Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Windshield Wipers, Blade Check” under Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. Here’s how to remove the wiper blades: 1. Turn on the wipers to the LO wipe setting. 2. Turn off the ignition while the wipers are at the outer positions of the wiper pattern. The blades are more accessible for removal/replacement while in this position.


3. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the


windshield.


4. While holding the wiper arm away from the glass,


push the release clip from under the blade connecting point and pull the old blade assembly down toward the glass to remove it from the wiper arm.


5. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper


arm until you hear the release clip click into place.


5-57


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.


5-58


{CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64. (cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If


your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example


(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-70. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


5-59


(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


Compact Spare Tire Example


(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-85
and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-74.


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Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.


(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


Tire Terminology and Definitions


Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kiloPascal (kPa).


Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.


Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.


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Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.


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GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. KiloPascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.


Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.


Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-68. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-70. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.


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A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-85.


Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following:


Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading


(cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


Tire Pressure Monitor System If your vehicle has the tire pressure monitor system, it can alert you to a large change in the pressure of one tire. The system “learns” the pressure at each tire throughout the operating speed range of your vehicle. The system normally takes between 45 and 90 minutes of driving to learn the tire pressures. This time may be longer depending on your individual driving habits. Learning need not be accumulated during a single trip. Once learned, the system will remember the tire pressures until the system is recalibrated. After the system has learned tire pressures with properly inflated tires, the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message will come on if the pressure in one tire becomes 12 psi (83 kPa) lower than the other three tires. The tire pressure monitor system won’t alert you if the pressure in more than one tire is low, if the system is not properly calibrated, or if the vehicle is moving faster than 70 mph (110 km/h).


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The tire pressure monitor system detects differences in tire rotation speeds that are caused by changes in tire pressure. The system can alert you about a low tire — but it doesn’t replace normal tire maintenance. See Tires on page 5-58. When the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message comes on, you should stop as soon as you can and check all your tires for damage. (If a tire is flat, see If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-74.) Also check the tire pressure in all four tires as soon as you can. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64. The LOW TIRE PRESSURE message will also be displayed (while the ignition is on) until you reset (calibrate) the system. Don’t reset the tire pressure monitor system without first correcting the cause of the problem and checking and adjusting the pressure in all four tires. If you reset the system when the tire pressures are incorrect, the system will not work properly and may not alert you when a tire is low.


Any time you adjust a tire’s pressure, rotate your tires, or have one or more tires repaired or replaced, you’ll need to reset (calibrate) the tire pressure monitor system. You’ll also need to reset the system whenever you buy new tires and whenever the vehicle’s battery has been disconnected. The tire pressure monitor system can be reset two ways. To reset (calibrate) the system using the ignition, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition position to ON. 2. Pull the exterior lamp control from the ON position


to the OFF position three times.


To reset (calibrate) the system through the radio, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition to ACC or ON and turn the


radio off.


2. Press and hold the TUNE DISPL button on the


radio for at least five seconds until SETTINGS is displayed.


3. Press the SEEK PSCAN up or down arrow to scroll


through the main menu.


4. Scroll until TIRE MON appears on the display.


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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-68 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-71 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for scheduled rotation intervals.


5. Press the 1 PREV or 2 NEXT button to enter the


submenu. RESET will be displayed.


6. Press the TUNE DISPL button to reset. A chime will


be heard to verify the new setting and DONE will be displayed for one second.


7. Once the monitor has been reset, scroll until EXIT


appears on the display.


8. Press the TUNE DISPL button to exit programming.


A chime will be heard to verify exit.


The system completes the calibration process during driving. The system normally takes 15 to 20 minutes of driving in each of three speed ranges to “learn” tire pressures. The speed ranges are 15 to 40 mph (25 to 65 km/h), 40 to 65 mph (65 to 105 km/h) and above 65 mph (105 km/h). When learning is complete, the system will alert you after two to eight minutes if a tire is 12 psi (83 kPa) different from the other three tires. Detection thresholds may be higher and detection times may be longer on rough roads, curves and at high speeds. The system is not capable of detection at speeds greater than 70 mph (110 km/h).


When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.


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Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Reset the Tire Inflation Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-65. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-102.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-74.


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When It Is Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to

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