Download PDF Manual

below 103 mph (165 km/h), the system will automatically turn on again.


Braking in Emergencies Use your anti-lock braking system when you need to. With anti-lock, you can steer and brake a1 the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.


129 ...


I


Your Driving and the Road Steering Power Steering If you lase power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Steering Tips Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a carve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. . . ,130


Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve, Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems - steering and acceleration - have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Unless you have traction control and the system is on, adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are opt of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.


Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking - if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action - steering around the problem. Your Chevrolet can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem,


to the left or right depending on the space available. An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.


Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents - the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing:


“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually


1 3 1 . . .


Off-Road Recovery You may find sometime that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder (A) while you’re driving. If the level of the shoulder is only slight11 below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to 1/4 turn (B) until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.


Your Driving and the Road


indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic. Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.


If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot. Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.) Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle. Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lights are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead


of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.


loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.


Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your Chevrolet’s three control systems. In the brakmg skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too


. . .132


While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine bralung by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues - such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a .“mirrored surface” - and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock braking system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.


much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If you have the ASR system, remember: It helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If you do not have traction control, or if the system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited.


..


Driving at Night


\Tight driving is more dangerous than day hiving. One reason is that some drivers tre likely to be impaired - by alcohol or lrugs, with night vision problems, or by atigue. lere are some tips on night driving.


Drive defensively. Don’t drink and drive. Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlights behind you. Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.


133 ...


Your Driving and the Road


vehicle with misaimed headlights), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching lights. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean - inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, malung the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlights light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlights should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blinduess - the inability to see in dim light - and aren’t even aware of it.


Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlights can light up only so much road ahead.


0 In remote areas, watch for animals. 0 If you’re tired, pull off the road in a


safe place and rest.


Night Vision No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlights, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching lights. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a . . .I34


Driving in the Rain Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking.


It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.


Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.


Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple’’ the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.


135.


Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.


Your Driving and the Road Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.


Some Other Rainy Weather Tips


Turn on your low-beam headlights - not just your parking lights - to help make you more visible to others. Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)


City Driving


One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:


Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next section, “Freeway Driving.”)


. . .136


3egin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance wer your shoulder as often as necessary. Iiy to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit.


The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes luite sharply. The exit speed is usually losted. Reduce your speed according to lour speedometer, not to your sense of notion. After driving for any distance at ligher speeds, you may tend to think you we going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re i-eady. Try to be well hted. If you must start when you’re not iresh - such as after a day’s work - jon’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable zlothing and shoes you can easily drive Ln. [s your vehicle ready for a long trip? If yob keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Chevrolet dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip: 0 Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the


reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside?


Freeway Driving


Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of tHe freeway as you drive along the entrdnce ramp, you should


Your Driving and the Road


sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:


Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.


Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?


Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you . . .13%


Hill and Mountain Roads


Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain. If you drive regularly in steep :ountry, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing


down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.


If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.


Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.


Winter Driving


Here are some tips for winter driving: 0 Have your Chevrolet in good shape


for winter. Be sure your engine coolant mix is correct.


139 ...


Your Driving and the Road


Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.


0 You may want to put winter


;i”iii’ i ;i7: : . .


,,::


emergency supplies in your vehicle. Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.


. . . I 4 0


P. :’ $;.,


What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about freezing (32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow - drive with caution. If you have traction control, keep the system on. It will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has a traction control system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See “Acceleration


You can run the engine to keep warrn, but be careful.


Slip Regulation (ASR) System” in the Index. If you don’t have the traction control system, accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Your anti-lock brakes improve your ability to make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.


If You’re Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.


141 .


Your Driving and the Road


Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.


Towing a Trailer


NOTICE: Pulling a trailer improperly can dam- age your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section, and see your Chevrolet dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this section. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety md that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.


Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlights. Let the heater run for awhile.


. . .142


t Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight, The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.


If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer If you do, here are some important points.


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.


Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers (or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h)) to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.


Three important considerations have to do with weight:


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,500 pounds (680 kg) under normal driving conditions. It should never weigh more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) when driven on long grades at high ambient temperatures. But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can


also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:


Chevrolet Motor Division Customer Assistance Department P.O. Box 7047 Troy, MI 48007-7047


In Canada, write to:


General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Assistance Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LlH 8P7


143. ..


Your Driving and the Road


weight 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.


Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Loading Your Vehicle ” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle.


Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch zquipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:


Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too. The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.


Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chdins under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.


Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total capacity weight of your vehicle. The capacity weight includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it. and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must subtract the tongue load from your vehicle’s capacity weight because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity. If you’re using a “dead-weight’’ hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should . .I44


Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes - and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly so responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes


are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.


Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.


Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.


Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up


slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.


Making Turns When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows Dn your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


145.


Your Driving and the Road Driving on Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 kmh) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating. If you are towing a trailer and you have an automatic transmission with Overdrive, you may prefer to drive in “ D ’ instead of Overdrive (or, as you need to, a lower gear). Or, if you have a manual transmission with fifth (or sixth) gear and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use fifth (or sixth) gear. Just drive in fourth gear (fifth gear if you have a six-speed manual transmission) (or, as you need to, a lower gear).


both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “P’ (Park) yet, or into gear for a manual transmission.


2. Have someone place chocks under the


trailer wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place,


release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then


apply your parking brake, and then shift to “P” (Park), or “R” (Reverse) for a manual transmission. 5. Release the regular brakes.


When You Are Ready to Leave after Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold


the pedal down while you:


Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and


. . ,146


Start your engine;


0 Shift into a gear; and


Release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal.


3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear


of the chocks.


4. Stop ahd have someone pick up and


store the chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.


Part 5 Problems on the Road


I' H e r e you'll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road .


Hazard Warning Flashers ........................................... Jumpstarting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TowingYourVehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engineoverheating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IfaTireGoesFlat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . If You're Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow ............................


148 149 152 157 166 177


147 .


Problems on the Road


Hazard Warning Flashers


Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lights will flash on and off.


’ress the button in to make your front ant ear turn signal lights flash on and off. (our hazard warning flashers work no natter what position your key is in, and ven if the key isn’t in.


b turn off the flashers, pull out on the i ’ I ol 1 ar. Vhen the hazard warning flashers are on, our turn signals won’t work. Ither Warning Devices f you carry reflective triangles, you can 11 et one up at the side of the road about SI 00 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.


. ,148


Jump Starting


If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your Chevrolet. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.


other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your Chevrolet, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all lights that aren’t needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!


NOTICE: If you leave your radio on, it could be’ badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.


4. Open the hoods and locate the


batteries.


NOTICE: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your war- ranty. Trying to start your Chevrolet by pushing or pulling it could damage your vehicle, even if you have a manual transmission. And if you have an automatic transmission, it won’t start that way.


To Jump Start Your Chevrolet: 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have


a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. NOTICE:


If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.


2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each


149 ...


Problems on the Road


Find the positive (+> and negative (-j terminals on each battery.


5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-j or a metal engine part. Don’t connect (+) to (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.


. . .150


6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to


the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Don‘t let the other end touch metal.


Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. But don’t use the junction block on your Chevrolet.


a. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.


151 . ,


Problems on the Road


9.


0.


Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while.


1.


2.


Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won't start after a few tries, it probably needs service. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent electrical shorting. Take care that they don't touch each other or any other metal. A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery c. Dead Battery


I Towing Your Vehicle ?y to have a GM dealer or a professional ]wing service tow your Chevrolet. The sua1 towing equipment is a sling-type A) or a wheel-lift (B) or car carrier (C) 3w truck. f your vehicle has been changed or nodified since it was factory-new by Idding aftermarket items like fog lamps, Lero skirting, or special tires and wheels, hese instructions and illustrations may tot be correct. 3efore you do anything, turn on the lazard warning flashers.


- . 152


When you call, tell the towing service: 0 That your vehicle cannot be towed


from the front or rear with sling-type equipment. That your vehicle has rear-wheel drive.


0 The make, model, and year of your


vehicle.


0 Whether you can still move the shift


lever.


0 If there was an accident, what was


damaged.


When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.


153


. I I .


Problems on the Road When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this, The transmission should be in “Neutral” and the parking brake released. Don’t have your vehicle towed on the rear wheels, unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the rear wheels, don’t go more than 35 mph (55 km/h) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transmission will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the rear wheels have to be supported on a dolly.


. . .154


?ront Towing Hook-Ups Ittach T-hook chains to slots in frame *earward of front wheels on both sides.


NOTICE: Do not attach winch cables or “J” hooks to suspension components when using car carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.


NOTICE:


Do not tow with sling-type equip- ment or fascia/fog light damage will occur. Use wheel lift or car carrier equip- ment. Additional ramping may be required for car carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps.


Attach a separate safety chain around outboard end of each lower control arm.


I NOTICE: I Take care not to damage the brake


pipes and hoses or the ABS sensor and wiring.


NOTICE: Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle-to-ground or vehicle-to-wheel-lift-equipment contact. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.


155 ...


Problems on the Road I I


NOTICE:


4ttach a separate safety chain around jutboard end of the rear axle.


Do not tow with sling-type equip- ment or rear bumper valance will be damaged. Use wheel lift or car carrier equip- ment. Additional ramping may be required for car carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps.


NOTICE: Take care not to damage the brake pipes and cables.


Rear Towing Hook-Ups Attach T-hook chains in front of rear wheels in bottom of frame rail on both sides.


NOTICE: Do not attach winch cables or "J" hooks to suspension components when using car carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.


. . .156


If Steam Is Coming from Your Engine:


NOTICE: Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle- to-ground or vehicle-to-wheel-lift- equipment contact. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.


Engine Overheating


You will find a coolant temperature gage Dn your Chevrolet’s instrument panel. You may also find a low coolant warning light on your Chevrolet instrument panel.


157.. .


Problems on the Road


3. Tr! to keep your engine under load


(in a drive gear where the engine runs slower).


[f you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. [f the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND GET EVERYONE OUT OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see on the V6 engine: 1. Coolant recovery tank 2. Radiator pressure cap 3. Electric engine fan


NOTICE: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


If No Steam Is Coming from Your Engine: If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can gel a little too hot when you: 0 Climb a long hill on a hot day. 0 Stop after high speed driving. 0 Idle for long periods in traffic.


Tow a trailer.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it


off.


2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the


highest fan speed and open the window as necessary.


. . .158


I


A CAUTION:


On the V8 engine you’ll see this: 1. Coolant recovery tank 2. Radiator pressure cap 3. Electric engine fans


A CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. When it is cool, remove the coolant recovery tank cap and look at the dipstick. The coolant level should be at or above “FULL COLD.” If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


NOTICE: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.


If there seems to be no leak, check to see if the electric engine fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it isn’t, your vehicle needs service.


159.


Problems an the Road


When the coolant in the coalant recovery tank is at or above the “FULL GOLD” mark, .start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Bank If yon .haven’t found a problem yet, but the COOhint level isn’t at ur above the “FULL COLD” mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clew wata (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant‘rtyxwery ta&. (see “~nginef Coolant” in the Index for more infor- mation about the prop coolaat mix.)


. . . I 6 0


I NOTICE: I In cold weather, water can freeze and


crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the warn- mended coolant.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap,


but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator (3.4L L32 (Code S) Engine) 1. You can remove the radiator pressure


cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap ant upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


161 ..


Problems on the Road


3. Fill the radiator with the proper mix,


up to the base of the filler neck.


4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to


“FULL COLD.”


5. Put the cap back on the coolant


recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off.


. . .I62


6. Start the engine and let it run until


you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan(s).


7. By this time the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator (5.7L LTl (Code P) Engine)


NOTICE: The LTl engine (Code P) has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.


8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.


163 ...


Problems on the Road


~. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.


1. You can remove the radiator pressure


cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap anc upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


3. After the engine cools, open the air


bleed valves on the heater return hose and water pump inlet.


. . .164


4. Fill with the proper mix. Add coolant


until you see a steady stream of coolant coming from the bleed valves.


5. Close the bleed valves.


6. Continue to fill the radiator up to the


base of the filler neck.


7. Rinse or wipe the spilled coolant from


the engine and compartment.


3. Start the engine and allow it to run in idle for approximately four minutes. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator will be lower. Add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


165 ...


Problems on the Road


3. Shut the engine off and replace the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up like this.


10. Then fill the coolant recovery tank


to the proper level.


For a complete drain, flush and refill, see your Chevrolet dealer or a Chevrolet Camaro Service Manual. To purchase a service manual, see “Service Publications’’ in the Index.


. . ,166


If Q Tire Goes Flat


It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,’’ here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If your tire goes flat, the next section shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


Changing a Flat lire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.


The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. The equipment you’ll need is in the rear area. First you must remove the close-out panel. See “Close-Out Panel” in the Index. Find the plastic screw heads in the trim panel over the spare tire. Use a coin or a key to turn the screw heads until the slots point front and back. Lift the trim panel and move it out of the way.


167..


Problems on the Road


To remove the jack and wheel wrench, loosen and remove the bolt and remove the plastic cover.


Remove the wing nut and adapter and pull out the spare.


Start with the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B).


'..


.. . .


. . .I68


The jack has a bolt at the end. Attach the wheel wrench to the jack bolt. Turn the wheel wrench to the right to raise the lift head a little.


If your wheel has a center cap, pry it off using the wheel wrench.


If your vehicle has a bolt-on wheel cover, loosen the plastic caps using the wheel wrench and remove the wheel cover.


169 ...


Problems on the Road


.... .,..



If your vehicle has optional alloy wheels, each wheel may have one locknut in place of the standard wheel nut. A special wheel lock key (removal tool) and instructions are located in the center console. Attach the wheel lock key to the socket of the wheel wrench. Remove the locking wheel nut by turning counterclockwise.


Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet.


Position the jack under the vehicle. There is a notch in the vehicle’s rocker flange on the coupe model. Raise the jack head until it fits firmly into the notch nearest the flat tire. On convertible models, place the jack in a similar location.


. . .I70


NOTICE: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.


Stay away from the moldings or fender flanges to avoid damaging them.


Raise the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.


171 . .


Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare whee Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.


:l.


Problems on the Road


Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.


. . .172


A CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emer- gency, you can use a cloth or a papa- towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.


Lower the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown.


173..


Problems on the Road


Don’t try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the rear area until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.


NOTICE: Wheel covers won’t fit on your com- pact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.


. . ,174


Replace the jack, wheel wrench and flat tire using the storage instructions. When you replace the trim panel, be sure to tuck it under the weatherstrip. 1. Trim Panel 2. Bolt 3. Cover 4. Jack 5. Wing Nut 6. Adapter 7. Compact Spare Tire 8. Full-Size Tire 9. Carpet Flap 10. Tire Storage Bolt


175


I .


NOTICE: Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them will damage your vehicle and destroy the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your com- pact spare.


Problems on the Road


NOTICE: If the compact spare is used as a rear tire, do not drive faster than 50 mph (80 km/h). Damage to the rear axle may occur if the compact spare is driven faster than 50 mph (80 km/h). This speed limitation does not apply when the compact spare is used as a front tire.


NOTICE: Don’t take your compact spare through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can dam- age the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.


Don’t use your compact spare on some other vehicle. And don’t mix your compact spare or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare and its wheel together.


Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 Wa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at posted speed limits for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km). Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.


. . .176


If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow


What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.


NOTICE: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.


Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has ASR, you should turn the system off, (See “ASR System” in the Index.) Then shift back and forth between “R” (Reverse) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between First or Second gear and Reverse), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle’’ in the Index.


177..


Problems on the Road


H e r e you will find information about the care of your Chevrolet . This part begins with service and fuel information. and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels . There is also technical information about your vehicle. and a section devoted to its appearance care .


Part 0 Service & Appearance Care 180 181 184 184 187 191 194 196 197 197 198 200 201 202 204 205 212 214 220 226 227 227 227 227 231 232


Service ......................................................... Fuel ........................................................... Checking Things under the Hood .................................... HoodRelease .................................................. EngineOil .................................................... Aircleaner ................................................... Automatic Transmission Fluid ..................................... Manual Transmission Fluid ....................................... Hydraulic Clutch ............................................... RearAxle ..................................................... Enginecoolant ................................................ Power Steering Fluid ............................................ Windshield Washer Fluid ......................................... Brake Master Cylinder ........................................... Battery ....................................................... Bulb Replacement ................................................ LoadingYourVehicle ............................................. Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Appearancecare ................................................. Appearance Care and Maintenance Materials ........................... Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................................. Service Parts Identification Label .................................... Add-on Electrical Equipment ....................................... Fuses and Circuit Breakers ......................................... Replacement Bulbs ............................................... Capacities and Specifications .......................................


179 ...


Service and Appearance Care


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper Chevrolet Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your Chevrolet than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag - Equipped Chevrolet” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.


GM -


AC1


Service


Your Chevrolet dealer knows your vehicll best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks.


. . . I 8 0


I NOTICE: I If you try to do your own service


work without knowing enough about it, your vehicle could be damaged. Fuel


The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index.)


3.4L L32 (Code S) Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the U.S. and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the U.S. and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see “UNLEADED’ right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck.


Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. 5.7L LT1 (Code P) Use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher. You may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines, but your vehicle may not accelerate as well. The gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the U.S. and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel.


[n the U.S. and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You ’ 11 see “UNLEADED’ right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 91 (at least 89 for middle grade and 87 for regular). If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 91 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.


181 ...


1


Service and Appearance Care All Engines What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.


NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion prevent- ers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.


. . .I82


Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated zasoline. By doing so, you can help clean :he air, especially in those parts of the :ountry that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station lperators if their gasolines contain deposit :ontrol additives and oxygenates, and if :hey have been reformulated to reduce iehicle emissions.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Seneral Motors Overseas Distribution


Corporation


Vorth American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Dshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7 Zanada


rhe cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).


Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as ?ossible. See “Cleaning the Outside of

Loading...
x