2002 Buick Rendezvous Owners Manual

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Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water

Driving Through Flowing Water

CAUTION:

NOTICE:

If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and the other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips D Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.

D Have good tires with proper tread depth. See “Tires”

in the Index.

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One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: D Know the best way to get to where you are

going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most

large cities. You’ll save time and energy. See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”

D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

City Driving

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.

At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit.

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The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Buick dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.

Here are some things you can check before a trip: D Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?

Are all windows clean inside and outside?

D Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? D Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked

all levels?

D Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? D Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,

trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?

D Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook

along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? D Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured.

What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a

comfortably cool interior.

D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and

to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently.

D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. D Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

D Know how to go down hills. The most important

thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

CAUTION:

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

D Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift

down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transaxle, and you can climb the hill better.

D Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane

roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

D As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There

could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

D You may see highway signs on mountains that

warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

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Here are some tips for winter driving: D Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

Winter Driving

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. If you have traction control, keep the system on. It will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. But you can turn the traction system off if you ever need to. You should turn the system off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow. See “Rocking Your Vehicle” in the Index. Even though your vehicle has a traction system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See “Traction Control System” in the Index. If you don’t have a traction system, accelerate gently. Try not to break the gentle traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

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Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index. D Allow greater following distance on any

slippery road.

D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: D Turn on your hazard flashers.

D Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that

you’ve been stopped by the snow.

D Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.

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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle -- such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).

With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: D What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

D How far will you tow? Some vehicles have

restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.

D Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations.

D Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would

prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See “Before Leaving on a Long Trip” in the Index.

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Dinghy Towing Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with all of its wheels on the ground. If you have a two-wheel-drive vehicle, it can be towed with two of its wheels on the ground. See “Dolly Towing” following. If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, it cannot be towed with any of its wheels on the ground. It can be towed with car carrier equipment.

NOTICE:

Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain components. Don’t tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle if any of its wheels will be on the ground.

Dolly Towing If you have a two-wheel-drive vehicle, it can be towed with two of its wheels on the ground. To dolly tow your vehicle, do the following: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position

with a clamping device designed for towing.

5. Release the parking brake. If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, it cannot be towed with any of its wheels on the ground. It can be towed with car carrier equipment.

NOTICE:

Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain components. Don’t tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle if any of its wheels will be on the ground.

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The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle.

CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Loading Your Vehicle

The Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.

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NOTICE:

CAUTION:

Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. D Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle.

Try to spread the weight evenly.

D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in

your vehicle.

D When you carry something inside the

vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

D Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you

need to.

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Electronic Level Control (Option) On vehicles equipped with the optional electronic level control, the rear of the vehicle is automatically kept level as you load or unload your vehicle. However, you should still not exceed the GVWR or the GAWR. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. If the key is in ACCESSORY, ON or when retained accessory power (RAP) is active, you may hear the compressor operating when you load your vehicle or shortly after you start your vehicle, and periodically as the system self-adjusts. This is normal. See “Retained Accessory Power (RAP)” in the Index. The compressor should operate for brief periods of time. If the sound continues for an extended period of time (longer than one minute) or occurs many times within one trip, your vehicle needs service. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.

Towing a Trailer

CAUTION:

If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

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NOTICE:

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Additional rear axle maintenance is required for a vehicle used to tow a trailer. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

Your vehicle can tow a trailer. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this section. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.

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Three important considerations have to do with weight: D the weight of the trailer, D the weight of the trailer tongue D and the weight on your vehicle’s tires. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,400 lbs. (630 kg) with up to five occupants in the vehicle or more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) with up to two occupants. If you have the optional trailer towing package, your vehicle can tow up to 2,900 lbs. (1 300 kg) with up to five occupants or up to 3,500 lbs. (1 575 kg) with up to two occupants. But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: D There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

D Consider using a sway control if your trailer will

weigh 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg). You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

D Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

D Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you

tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

D You should use THIRD (3) (or, as you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transaxle.

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You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:

Buick Customer Assistance Center P.O. Box 33136
Detroit, MI 48232-5136

In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification/Tire Label at the rear edge of the driver’s door, or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: D If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 2, 000 lbs. (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-carrying hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.

D Will you have to make any holes in the body of your

vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index. Dirt and water can, too.

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Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.

Driving with a Trailer

CAUTION:

If you have a rear-most window open and you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You can’t see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index. To maximize your safety when towing a trailer: D Have your exhaust system inspected for leaks, and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip.

D Keep the rear-most windows closed. D If exhaust does come into your vehicle

through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use recirculation because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. See “Comfort Controls” in the Index.

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

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Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

Making Turns

NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. If you are towing a trailer that weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg), drive in THIRD (3) instead of AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D) (or, as you need to, a lower gear). This will minimize heat build-up and extend the life of your transaxle.

Parking on Hills

CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking

brake, and then shift to PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: D start your engine, D shift into a gear, and D release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.

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5-3
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Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating

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Cooling System If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire Compact Spare Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

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Hazard Warning Flashers

The hazard warning flasher button is located on top of the steering column.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. Press the button to make the front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off. Press the button again to turn the flashers off. When the hazard warning flashers are on, the turn signals won’t work.

Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: D They contain acid that can burn you. D They contain gas that can explode or ignite. D They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. The ACDelcoR battery in your vehicle has a built-in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

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2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump starting procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

NOTICE:

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the

positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose. The terminal is located under a tethered cap at the front of the underhood fuse and relay center. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Flip the cap up to access the remote positive (+) terminal. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery.

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

CAUTION:

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlet(s). Turn off the radios and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

5-4

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelcoR battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

5-5

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

5-6

9. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

NOTICE:

Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

5-7

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its

original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (-) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (-) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

5-8

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your vehicle towed. See “Roadside Assistance” and “Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index.

Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” in the Index. You also have an engine coolant temperature warning message on your instrument panel. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Message” in the Index.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage will indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided.

NOTICE:

After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.

5-9

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

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NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic. D Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

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Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Coolant Recovery Tank

5-12

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50
mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.

NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

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CAUTION: (Continued)

They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and the radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly.

CAUTION: (Continued)

5-15

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

5-16

Housing

Bypass Tube

3. After the engine cools, open the coolant air

bleed valves. There are two bleed valves. One is located on the thermostat housing. The other is located on the thermostat bypass tube.

4. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOLR

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valves after the radiator is filled.

5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine

and the compartment.

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6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the

upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

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9. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the

FULL COLD mark.

10. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-19

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

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The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you’ll need is located in the storage compartment at the rear of the vehicle, on the passenger’s side. 1. Open the jack storage compartment by lifting up the

tab and pulling the cover off.

2. Remove the jack and jacking tools by turning the

wing nut counterclockwise.

3. Separate the jack by lifting up the jack from the bracket tab and remove the folding wrench from the jack.

A. Jack B. Wing Nut and Screw C. Jacking Instructions

D. Folding Wrench E. Wing Nut F. J-Hook

The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A), folding wrench (B), extension tube (C), wing nut (D), and J-hook (E).

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Removing the Spare Tire (Vehicles without the Rear Convenience/Cargo Tray) The compact spare tire is located under the vehicle, ahead of the rear bumper. Use the spare tire hoist to raise, lower and store the compact spare tire. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section for more information about the compact spare.

1. Flip the rear cargo area carpet cut out to expose the

hoist shaft.

2. Attach the folding wrench into the hoist shaft. 3. Turn the folding wrench counterclockwise to lower

the spare tire to the ground. Continue turning the wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.

A. Hoist Shaft B. Folding Wrench C. Hoist Assembly

D. Retainer E. Compact Spare Tire

4. To remove the spare tire from the cable, tilt the retainer and slip it through the wheel opening.

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5. After removing the spare tire, turn the wrench

clockwise to raise the cable back up. Do not store a full-size or a flat road tire under the vehicle. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” later in this section.

To continue changing the flat tire see “Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire” later in this section.

If the spare tire will not lower, the secondary latch may be engaged and causing the tire not to lower.

Do the following to check the cable: 1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable is visible. 2. If not visible, see “Secondary Latch System”

later in this section. If visible, first try to tighten the cable by turning the folding wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You can not overtighten the cable.

3. Loosen the cable by turning the wrench

counterclockwise three or four turns.

4. Repeat this procedure at least two times. 5. If you still cannot lower the spare tire to the ground, see “Secondary Latch System” later in this section.

6. If the spare tire did lower to the ground, continue with

Step 4 under “Removing the Spare Tire (Vehicles without the Rear Convenience/Cargo Tray)”.

5-23

Removing the Spare Tire (Vehicles with the Rear Convenience/Cargo Tray) (Optional) The compact spare tire is located under the vehicle, ahead of the rear bumper. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section for more information about the compact spare.

1. Open the storage compartment door of the convenience/cargo tray that is nearest the liftgate and remove the cap on the bottom of the storage compartment.

2. Flip the cut out carpet that is located through the

hole of the storage compartment.

3. Remove the extension tube that is attached on the passenger side of the center storage compartment.

4. Insert one end of the extension tube to the hoist

shaft and attach the folding wrench to the other end of the tube.

5. Turn the folding wrench counterclockwise to lower

the spare tire to the ground. Continue turning the wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.

E. Hoist Shaft F. Compact Spare Tire G. Retainer H. Hoist Shaft Assembly

A. Rear Convenience/

Cargo Tray

B. Folding Wrench C. Extension Tube D. Storage Compartment

Cap Hole

5-24

6. To remove the spare tire from the cable, tilt the retainer and slip it through the wheel opening. 7. After removing the spare tire, turn the wrench

clockwise to raise the cable back up. Do not store a full-size or a flat road tire under the vehicle. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” later in this section.

To continue changing the flat tire see “Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire” later in this section.

If the spare tire will not lower, the secondary latch may be engaged and causing the tire not to lower. Do the following to check the cable: 1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable is visible. 2. If not visible, see “Secondary Latch System” later

in this section. If visible, first try to tighten the cable by turning the folding wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You can not overtighten the cable.

5-25

3. Loosen the cable by turning the wrench

counterclockwise three or four turns.

4. Repeat this procedure at least two times. 5. If you still cannot lower the spare tire to the ground, see “Secondary Latch System” later in this section.

6. If the spare tire did lower to the ground, continue

with Step 6 under “Removing the Spare Tire (Vehicles with the Rear Convenience/Cargo Tray)”.

Secondary Latch System The spare tire hoist assembly is equipped with a secondary latch system. It’s designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the spare tire must be stowed with the valve stem pointing down. See “Storing the Spare Tire and Tools” in the Index for instructions on storing the spare tire correctly.

5-26

CAUTION:

Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed below.

To release the spare tire from the secondary latch, do the following:

CAUTION:

Someone standing too close during the the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from under the spare.

1. If the cable is not visible, start this procedure

at Step 3.

2. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until

approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.

5. Turn the folding wrench clockwise to raise the jack

until it lifts the secondary latch spring.

3. Attach the folding wrench to the jack and raise the

jack at least 10 turns.

4. Place the jack under the vehicle, ahead of the rear

bumper. Position the center lift point of the jack under the center of the spare tire.

6. Keep raising the jack until the spare tire stops

moving upward and is held firmly in place, this lets you know that the secondary latch has released

5-27

7. Lower the jack by turning the folding wrench

counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire is resting on the folding wrench.

5-28

8. Grasp the spare tire with both hands and pull it out

from under the vehicle.

9. Reach under the vehicle and remove the folding

wrench and jack.

10. When the spare tire has been completely lowered,

tilt the retainer and slip it through the wheel opening.

11. If the cable is hanging, turn the wrench clockwise

to raise the cable back up.

Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or flat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been repaired or replaced.

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. If there is a wheel cover, loosen the plastic nut caps with the wheel wrench. They won’t come off. Then, using the flat end of the wheel wrench, pry along the edge of the cover until it comes off. Be careful; the edges may be sharp. Don’t try to remove the cover with your bare hands. If your vehicle has aluminum wheels, remove the wheel nut caps using the wheel wrench.

For wheels with a wheel lock key, use the wheel lock key between the lock nut and folding wrench. The key is supplied in the front passenger door pocket.

NOTICE:

To help avoid damage to lock nut or wheel lock key, do not use an impact wrench with this key.

2. Loosen the wheel nuts -- but do not remove them -- using the folding wrench. (Turn the handle about 180 degrees, then flip the handle back to the starting position. This avoids taking the wrench off the lug nut for each turn.)

3. Near each wheel, there is a notch in the vehicle’s body. Position the jack and raise the jack head until it fits firmly into the notch in the vehicle’s frame nearest the flat tire.

5-29

Do not raise the vehicle yet. Put the compact spare tire near you.

CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

NOTICE:

Do not place the jack under the rear axle control arms. Only use the areas shown for proper jack location.

5-30

4. Attach the folding wrench

to the jack, and turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack head 3 inches (7.6 cm).

5. Raise the vehicle by turning the folding wrench

clockwise in the jack. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so that there is enough room for the spare tire to fit under the wheel well.

6. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

7. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

5-31

8. Install the spare tire and put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

10. Tighten the wheel nuts

firmly in a crisscross sequence, as shown.

CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 N·m).

9. Lower the vehicle by attaching the folding wrench to

the jack and turning the wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

5-32

NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

11. Don’t try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare

tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover securely in the rear of the vehicle until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

The underbody-mounted spare tire needs to be stored with the valve stem pointing down. If the spare tire is stored with its valve stem pointing upwards, its secondary latch won’t work properly, and the spare tire could loosen and suddenly fall from your vehicle. If this happened when your vehicle was being driven, the tire might contact a person or another vehicle, causing injury and, of course, damage to itself as well. Be sure the underbody-mounted spare tire is stored with its valve stem pointing down.

5-33

Storing the Spare Tire and Tools 1. Lay the compact spare tire on the ground at the

rear of the vehicle. Position the compact spare tire so that the valve stem is pointed down facing the rear of the vehicle.

2. Lower the cable to the ground. See “Removing

the Spare Tire (Vehicles without the Rear Convenience/Cargo Tray)” or “Removing the Spare Tire (Vehicles with the Rear Convenience/Cargo Tray)” in the Index.

3. Tilt the retainer downward and slip it through the

center hole of the spare tire. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.

4. Attach the folding wrench to the hoist shaft.

Use the extension tube if you have the optional rear convenience/cargo tray.

5. Turn the folding wrench clockwise to lift the

spare tire.

6. When the tire reaches the stabilizer bar, move the tire over the bar, then continue to turn the folding wrench clockwise to lift the spare tire.

7. When the tire is almost in the stored position,

turn the tire so that the valve stem is towards the rear of the vehicle. This will help when you check and maintain tire pressure in the spare.

8. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the

vehicle. Continue turning the folding wrench until you feel more than two clicks. This indicates that the compact spare tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist cannot be overtightened.

5-34

Put back all tools as they were stored in the jack storage compartment and put the compartment cover back on. To put the cover back on, slip the tabs on the side of the cover into the cover opening. Push the cover in place and push down the tabs on the cover so that it rests in the groove. This secures the cover in place. When you replace the compact spare with a full-size tire, reinstall the bolt-on wheel covers or the center cap (if equipped). Tighten them “hand tight” over the wheel nuts, using the folding wrench.

5-35

9. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and

then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the folding wrench to tighten the cable.

Storing the Flat Tire (Vehicles without the Stowable Seat and without the Rear Convenience/Cargo Tray)

A. D-Ring B. Wing Nut C. J-Hook

D. Valve Stem E. Full-Size Tire

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1. Flip up the D-ring located in the rear cargo area. 2. Lay the tire in the rear cargo area of the vehicle with the valve stem up with the center hole of the tire over the D-ring. For vehicles with aluminum wheels, remove the center trim cap by tapping the back of the cap with the folding wrench.

3. Remove the J-hook and the wing nut from the back of the jack access door. Assemble the wing nut and the J-hook.

4. Install the wing nut and the J-hook to the D-ring

through the center hole of the tire.

5. Tighten the wing nut to secure the tire to the floor.

Push and pull on the tire to make sure the tire is secure and does not move.

6. Put back all tools as they were stored in the jack storage compartment and put the compartment cover back on.

To put the cover back on, slip the tabs on the side of the cover into the cover opening. Push the cover in place and push down the tabs on the cover so that it rests in the groove. This secures the cover in place.

Storing the Flat Tire (Vehicles with the Rear Convenience/Cargo Tray) (Option)

1. Open the center storage compartment door of the

rear convenience/cargo tray.

A. Rear Convenience/

Cargo Tray

B. Full-Size Tire

C. Wing Nut D. J-Hook E. D-Ring

2. Remove the cap on the bottom of the storage

compartment and flip the D-ring up.

3. Lay the tire on top of the center storage compartment with the valve stem down. Make sure you can see the D-ring through the center hole of the tire.

4. Remove the J-hook and the wing nut from the back of the jack access door. Assemble the wing nut and the J-hook.

5. Install the wing nut and the J-hook to the D-ring

through the center hole of the tire.

6. Tighten the wing nut to secure the tire to the floor.

Push and pull on the tire to make sure the tire is secure and does not move.

7. Put back all tools as they were stored in the jack

storage compartment and put the compartment cover back on.

To put the cover back on, slip the tabs on the side of the cover into the cover opening. Push the cover in place and push down the tabs on the cover so that it rests in the groove. This secures the cover in place.

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Storing the Flat Tire (Vehicles with the Stowable Seat) (Option)

A. Rear Convenience/

Cargo Tray

B. Full-Size Tire C. D-Ring

D. Stowable Seat Strap E. Cargo Net Hook F. J-Hook G. Wing Nut

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1. If the seatback is not in an upright position, move it

to an upright position.

2. There is a strap attached to each side of the stowable

seat. Hook the straps to the cargo net hook in the rear of the vehicle.

3. Flip the D-ring so it is pointing outward. 4. Open the convenience/cargo tray cover. 5. Stand the full-size tire up, in the tray against the back of the seat with the valve stem pointing out.

6. Remove the J-hook and the wing nut from the back of the jack access door. Assemble the wing nut and the J-hook.

7. Install the wing nut and the J-hook to the D-ring

through the center hole of the tire.

8. Tighten the wing nut to secure the tire to the seatback.

Push and pull on the tire to make sure the tire is secure and does not move.

9. Put back all tools as they were stored in the jack storage compartment and put the compartment cover back on.

To put the cover back on, slip the tabs on the side of the cover into the cover opening. Push the cover in place and push down the tabs on the cover so that it rests in the groove. This secures the cover in place.

Storing the Flat Tire with the Stowable Seatback Folded Flat

A. Stowable Seatback B. Full-Size Tire C. Wing Nut

D. J-Hook E. D-Ring

1. Fold the seatback down and flip the D-ring up. 2. Lay the tire on the seatback with the valve stem pointing up with the center hole of the tire over the D-ring.

3. Remove the J-hook and the wing nut from the back of the jack access door. Assemble the wing nut and the J-hook.

4. Install the wing nut and the J-hook to the D-ring

through the center hole of the tire.

5. Tighten the wing nut to secure the tire to

the seatback. Push and pull on the tire to make sure the tire is secure and does not move.

6. Put back all tools as they were stored in the jack storage compartment and put the compartment cover back on.

To put the cover back on, slip the tabs on the side of the cover into the cover opening. Push the cover in place and push down the tabs on the cover so that it rests in the groove. This secures the cover in place.

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Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

NOTICE:

When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.

NOTICE:

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

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All-Wheel Drive (Option)

NOTICE:

After installing a compact spare tire on a vehicle with all-wheel drive you will need to drive with light to moderate acceleration, for 10 seconds, in a straight line. This action will allow the vehicle to detect the compact spare tire and disable the all-wheel drive system. The AWD DISABLE message will come on indicating that the all-wheel drive system is off. You may detect a slight pull during this time, but this is normal. Damage to the all-wheel drive system will occur, if the vehicle is driven for an extended period with a compact spare tire installed and the all-wheel drive system in operation. See “All-Wheel Drive System” and “AWD Disable Warning Message” in the Index for more information.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

CAUTION:

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

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NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn your traction control system off. See “Traction Control System” in the Index. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

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Service Fuel Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Passenger Compartment Air Filter (If Equipped) Automatic Transaxle Fluid All-Wheel Drive (Option) Engine Coolant Radiator Pressure Cap Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Care of Safety Belts Cleaning Glass Surfaces Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels (If Equipped) Underbody Maintenance Chemical Paint Spotting GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Service Parts Identification Label Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and listthe mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it is bad enough, it can damage your engine. A little pinging