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LBS.


KG


MAX. LOADING & GVWR SAME AS VEHICLE CAPACITY WEIGHT


XXX


TIRE SIZE


SPEED RTG


TIRE COLD PRESSURE PSIiKPa


FRT. RR. SPA. IF TIRES ARE HOT, ADD 4PSIj28KPa SEE OWNER’S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION


~-__I__-__


-d


Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label is on the rear edge of the driver’s door on four-door models and inside the trunk lid on two-door models. The label tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight you can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of a l l occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. 4-26


THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLI- CABLE U.S. FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY, BUMPER, A N D THEFT PREVENTION STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE.


The other label is the Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. If you do have a heavy load, spread it out. Don’t carry more than 167 pounds (75 kg) in your trunk.


I NOTICE:


Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.


If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.


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Your vehicle can tow a trailer. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later i n this section. But traiiering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance. increasing the pulling requirements.


Towing a Trailer


advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


I ’


NOTICE: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. TO pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your Buick dealer for important information about. towing a trailer with your vehicle.


4-28


If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points. 0 There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state 01- provincial police. Consider using a sway control.


You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.


Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1000 miles ( 1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 kmrdh) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers (or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h)) to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.


Three important considerations have to do with weight: Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg), unless you have the 2,000-pound (900 kg) trailer towing option package. But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for O L I ~ trailering information or advice, or you can write 11s at Buick Motor Division, Customer Assistance Center, 902 E. Hamilton Avenue, Flint, MI 48550. In Canada, write to General Motors of Canada Limited, Customer Assistance Center, 1908 Colonel Sam Drive, Oshawa, Ontario L 1 H 8P7.


4-LY


Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total capacity weight of your vehicle. The capacity weight includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must subtract the tongue load from your vehicle’s capacity weight because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the recommended pressure for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label (found inside the trunk lid) or see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.


4-30


Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:


Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too. The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.


Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufxturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.


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Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.


Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer, This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.


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Making Turns


NOTICE: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.


When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.


When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear Oefbve you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. If you are towing a trailer that weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg), you may prefer to drive in THIRD (3) instead of DRIVE (D) (or, as you need to, a lower gear).


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Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into


PARK (P) yet.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking


brake, and then shift to PARK (P).


5. Release the regular brakes.


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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill I . Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you:


Start your engine;


0 Shift into a gear; and 0 Release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, belt, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.


NOTES


4-35


NOTES


n Section 5 Problems on the Road


5-1


I NOTICE:


Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your Buick by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.


To Jump Start Your Buick 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


I NOTICE:


If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.


Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your Buick. But please follow the steps below to do it. safely.


5-2


2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your Buick, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. You could be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL (N).


3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all


iamps that aren’t needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!


NOTICE: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.


4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries.


A CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


5. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery. Your Buick has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal. The terminal is on the same side of the engine compartment as your battery. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on your battery. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, lift the red plastic cap.


3-3


6. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and .negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect (+) to (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the batterv and maybe other parts, too.


5-4


7. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Don't let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if' the vehicle has one.


9. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good battery's negative (-) terminal. Don't let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable d o c w ~ 'I go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted. metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.


5-5


IO. Att.ach the cable at least I8 inches (45 cm) away


from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


1 1. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


12. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it


won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


5-6


13. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent


electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal. A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C . Dead Battery


Towing Your Vehicle


If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding aftermarket items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these instructions and illustrations may not be correct. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:


Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your Buick. The usual towing equipment is: A. Sling-type Tow Truck B. Wheel-lift Tow Truck C. Car Carrier


That your vehicle cannot be towed from the front or rear with sling-type equipment. That your vehicle has front-wheel drive. The make, model, and year of your vehicle. Whether you can still move the shift lever. If there was an accident, what was damaged.


When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.


5-7


5-8


A CAUTION:


When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transaxle should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released. Don’t have your vehicle towed on the front wheels, unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the front wheels, don’t go more than 35 mph (56 km/h) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transaxle will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the front wheels have to be supported on a dolly.


5-9


r ront Towing Hookups


Attach T-hook chains in front of the wheels into the side slots of the cradle on both sides.


Use wheel lift or car carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps.


Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.


NOTICE: Do not tow with sling-type equipment or fascia/grille damage will occur. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise th.e vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment. Do not attach winch cables or J-hooks to suspension components when using car carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in T-hooks slots.


Rear Towing Hookups


Att.ach 'T-hook chains i n t o slots in the bottom of the floor pan just ahead of the rear wheels on both sides.


Use wheel lift or car carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps.


Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.


NOTICE: Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the rear bumper valance will be damaged. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment. Do not attach winch cables or J-hooks to suspension components when using car carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in T-hooks slots.


Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage and a warning light about a hot engine on your instrument panel. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” and “Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light” i n the Index. You also have a low coolant light on your instwrnent panel. See “Low Coolant Light” in the Ilrdex.


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


A CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam corning from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before opening the hood. is If you keep driving when your engine fire. You or overheated, the liquids in it can catch if others could be badly burned. Stop your engine it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


NOTICE: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: 0 Climb a long hill on a hot day. 0 Stop after high speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. Turn off your air conditioner 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the window as necessary.


3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);


otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- DRIVE (D) or THIRD (3).


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, r w r l ojftlw engine ~-rnd get owryotw out of’ the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but help right away.


to get service


5-15


3.1 L L82 (Code M) Engine


3.8L L27 (Code L) Engine


When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ I1 see: A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Fan


5-16


An electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.


I A CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine i€ there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If you


NOTICE: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on check to see if the electric engine fan(s) are running. If the engine is overheating, both fan(s) should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service.


The coolant level should be at or above the COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)


NOTICE: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant.


5-18


recovery tank is at the


When the coolant in the coolant COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.


5-19


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator


NOTICE: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.


1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.)


IC you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


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3. After the engine cools, open the coolant air bleed


valve or valves.


3.1 L L82 ((lode M) Engine 3.1L V6 (VTN Code M): There are two bleed valves. One is located on the thermostat housing. The other is located on the thermostat bypass tube.


3.8L L27 (Code L) Engine 3.8L V6 (VIN Code L27): There is one bleed valve. It is located on the thermostat housing.


Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base of the filler neck. If you see a stream of coolant coming horn an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve(s) after the radiator is filled.


5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine


and compartment.


6. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the COLD


mark.


7. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but


leave the radiator pressure cap off.


8. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine hns.


9. By this time the coolant level inside the radiator


filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


10. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the BI-~OWS o n the pressure cap line up like this.


1 1 - Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level in


the coolant recovery tank should be at the HOT mark when the engine is hot or at the COLD mark when the engine is cold.


5-23


If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


5-24


The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.


The equipment you’ll need is in the trunk. Pull the carpeting from the floor of the trunk. Turn the center nut on the compact spare cover counterclockwise to remove it. Then lift and remove the cover.


Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and remove it. Then lift off the spacer and remove the spare tire.


5-25


To remove a center cap, use the wrench to pry gently at the notch. Don’t use a tool that is narrower than the wrench to pry at this notch.


If your vehicle has wheel nut caps, remove them using the wheel wrench.


Turn the nut holding the jack and wrench counterclockwise and remove it. Then remove the jack and wrench. If there is a wheel cover, loosen the plastic nut caps with the wheel wrench. They won’t come off. Then, using the flat end of the wheel wrench, pry along the edge of the wheel cover until it comes off. Be careful; the edge may be sharp. Don’t try to remove the cover with your bare hands.


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Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the jack lift head a few inches.


Position the jack under the vehicle and raise the jack lift head until it fits firmly into the notch in the vehicle’s frame nearest the flat tire.


Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet.


A CAUTION:


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


Put the compact spare tire near you.


NOTICE: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.


- 5-27


Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground for the spare tire to fit under the vehicle. Remove all wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.


5-28


Replace the wheel nuts with the- rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the


Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle coLmterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


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Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.


Don’t try to put the wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.


I NOTICE:


Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.


After you’ve put the compact spare tire on your vehicle, you’ll need to store the flat tire in your trunk. Use the following procedure to secure the flat tire in the trunk. Put the flat tire in the trunk so the side that faces out when it is on the vehicle is facing down. The full-size tire will not fit down into the well. Place it so the front is in the well and the rear is out of the well. Put the bolt through one of the wheel nut holes, install the retainer over the bolt, then install the wing nut. Put the spacer and nut next to the tire in the well. Store the cover as far forward as possible. The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can.


5-30


See “Compact Spare Tire” in the Index. See the storage instructions label to replace your compact spare into your trunk properly.


2 7


*’ 1.


2. 5 . 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.


Nut Cover Wing Nut Spacer Tire Wrench Nut Retainer Jack Bolt


5-31


Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at posted speed limits for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.


1 NOTICE:


Don’t take your compact spare through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.


Don’t use your compact spare on some other vehicle. And don’t mix your compact spare or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare and its wheel together.


NOTICE: Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them will damage your vehicle and destroy the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.


5-32


If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck i s to spin your wheels too h s t . The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.


A CAUTION:


If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 k d h ) as shown on the speedometer.


NOTICE: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.


For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.


5-33


NOTES


n Section 6 Service and Appearance Care


Here you will find information about the care o f ‘ y o ~ r Ruick. This section begins with service and i’uel information. and then it shows how t o check i m p o r t a n t fluid and lubricant levels. There is also tcchnical information about your vehicle. and a part devoted t o its appearance care. Service Your Ruick dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with i t . We hope you‘ll go t o your dealer for all your service needs. You‘ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper Buick Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your Buick than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Buick” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.


6-2


NOTICE: If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough about it, your vehicle could be damaged.


Fuel Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the United States and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see UNLEADED right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That‘s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.


What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.


I NOTICE:


Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.


Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions.


6-4


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).


General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7


Filling Your Tank


The cap is behmd a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle.


While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door.


To take off the cap, turn (counterclockwise).


it slowly to the left


6-5


Checking Things Under the Hood


Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Buick” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear at least three clicks.


NOTICE: If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.


6-6


Hood Release


To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle.


Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then just pull the firmly. Engine Oil


hood down and close it


If the LOW OIL LEVEL light on the instrument panel comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “Low Oil Level Light” in the Index.


Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release. Lift the hood.


You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.


6-7


c


3.1 L L82 (Code M) Engine


3.8L L27 (Code L) Engine


The engine oil dipstick handle is the yellow loop near the front of the engine. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don't, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.


NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


3.1L L82 (Code M) Engine 3.8L L27 (Code L) Engine


Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.


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What Kind of Oil to Use Oils of the proper quality for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. The “Starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is preferred for use in your gasoline engine.


If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the “Starburst” symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.


You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart: As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (- 18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.


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RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS


~~~~~


~~


FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.


~~~


HOT


WEATHER


LOOK


FOR THIS


SYMBOL @&


SAE 1OW-30


RED


COLD


WEATHER


DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED


3.1L L82 (Code M) Engine


RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS


FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAL VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.


WEATHER -


HOT


LOOK


FOR THIS SYMBOL


As shown in the chart, SAE 1OW-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it's going to be colder than 60°F ( 16" C) before your next oil change. When it's very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.


"F


"C


-100- - +38 +BO- - +27


+ 6 0 - - + 1 6


+ 4 0 - - + 4


+ 2 0 - - - 7


0 - - - 1 8


COLD


WEATHER


SAE 1OW-30 PREFERRE0 above 0°F


(-18OC)


SAL SW-30


DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED


3.8L L27 (Code L) Engine


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NOTICE: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the proper oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.


GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your Buick dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.


When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:


Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas. You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle.


Tf any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever comes first. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever comes first.


6-12


Engine Coolant Heater An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0 OF (- 1 8 O C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. if you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


Air Cleaner


To check or replace the air filter, remove the four screws and pull off the cover.


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Pull out the filter. Be sure to install the air filter and install the cover tightly when you are finished. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


NOTICE: If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.


6-14


Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Buick dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.


NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.


Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving:


When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while.


0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather.


While pulling a trailer.


To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93 ” C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (IOOC), you may have to drive longer.


To check the fluid level 0 Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine


running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever i n PARK (P).


6-15


Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.


Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


1. The transaxle dipstick handle is the red loop near the back of the engine. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of the


dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the


dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level.


It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint (OSL). Don ’t ouefill. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.


After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way.


Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating or if you need to add coolant to your radiator, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your Buick will:


Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 262 OF (1 28 O C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights work as they should.


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 1825-M,” which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to GM Specification 1825-M with a complete coolant flush and refill. Use GM Engine Coolant Supplement (sealer) with any complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.


6-17


Adding Coolant


I NOTICE:


If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.


To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the HOT mark or a little higher.


If this light comes on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.


To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. (See “Engine Overheating” in the Index .)


Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.


6-19


Radiator Pressure Cap


Power Steering Fluid


NOTICE: Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.


When you replace your radiator pressure cap, an AC@ cap is recommended. Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended.


6-20


3.1L L82 (Code M) Engine 3.8L L27 (Code L) Engine How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick.


3.1L L82 (Code M) Engine


3.8L L27 (Code L) Engine


When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the H mark. When it’s cold, the level should be at the C mark. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid.


at the HOT mark. When it’s cold, the level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


6-21


What to Add Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


NOTICE: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. To Add


6-22


Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.


Brakes Brake Master Cylinder Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.


NOTICE:


When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only 3/4 full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in your master cylinder might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you


6-23


What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme ll@ (GM Part No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.


NOTICE:


Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful not to spill brake fluid on your you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care’’ in the Index.


vehicle. If


should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.


6-24


Brake Wear Your Buick has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly),


NOTICE: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then -- very carefully -- make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly.


6-25


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your Buick does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery Every new Buick has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom@ battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


6-26


Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods.


Halogen Bulbs


Headlamps


Bulb Replacement In this section you’ll find directions for changing the bulbs in some of the lamps on your Buick. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index to find the type of bulb you should use.


1. Press and turn the bulb socket counterclockwise


1/4-t~rn.


2. Pull the bulb socket out of the headlamp housing.


6-27


Taillamps


3. Lift the plastic locking


tab on the electrical connector and pull the connector from the headlamp bulb socket.


4. Align the tabs on the new bulb socket with in the housing and install the bulb socket.


the slots


5. Turn the bulb socket clockwise. 6. Snap the electrical connector into the bulb socket.


1. Remove the plastic nuts and pull the carpet away


from the rear of the trunk.


6-28


2. Remove the plastic wing nuts.


3. Pull the taillamp housing away from the body of the


vehicle.


4. Squeeze the tab on the socket and turn the socket


counterclockwise. 5. Pull out the socket. 6. Pull the bulb out of the socket. 7. Push in a new bulb. 8. Replace the socket into the housing and turn clockwise. 9. Replace the taillamp housing to the body of the vehicle. 10. Install the wing nuts. 11. Reposition the carpet and tighten the plastic nuts.


Tires We don’t make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. These tires are warranted by the tire manufacturers and their warranties are delivered with every new Buick. If your spare tire is a different brand than your road tires, you will have a tire warranty folder from each of these manufacturers.


Inflation - Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label which is inside the trunk lid shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires, when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than a mile.


NOTICE: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation) you can get:


Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy.


If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get:


Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards.


When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).


How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires -- which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated. If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


6-31


Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be inspected every 6,000 to 8,000 miles ( I 0 000 to 13 000 km) for any signs of unusual wear. If unusual wear is present, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When it’s Time ,for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.


When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.


6-32


When it’s Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need a new tire if: 0 You can see the indicators at three or more places


around the tire.


0 You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s


rubber.


0 The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep


enough to show cord or fabric.


0 The tire has a bump, bulge or split.


The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.


6-33


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire c- qraded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest are: A, B, and C. They represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straight-ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.


Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)


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Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. These grades are molded on the sidewalls of passenger car tires.


While the tires available as standard or optional equipment on General Motors vehicles may vary with respect to these grades, all such tires meet General Motors performance standards and have been approved for use on General Motors vehicles. All passenger type (P Metric) tires must conform to Federal safety requirements in addition to these grades. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. In most cases, you will not need to have your wheels aligned again. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.


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Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your Buick dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your Buick model.


NOTICE: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.


Used Replacement Wheels


Tire Chains


NOTICE: If your Buick has P215/60R16 or P225/60R16 size tires, don’t use tire chains; they can damage your vehicle. If you have other tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.


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Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your Buick, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: 0 Gasoline 0 Benzene Naphtha


0 Carbon Tetrachloride 0 Acetone 0 Paint Thinner 0 Turpentine 0 Lacquer Thinner 0 Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.


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Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:


Alcohol Laundry Soap


0 Bleach 0 Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Buick Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or leather with a clean, damp cloth. Your Buick dealer has two GM cleaners, a solvent-type spot lifter and a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. Do not use them on vinyl or leather. Here are some cleaning tips:


Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. Clean LIP stains as soon as you can -- before they set. Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area only. If you use them, don’t saturate the stained area. If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.


Using Foam-Type Cleaner on Fabric 0 Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 0 Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask


surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.


0 Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner following the


directions on the container label. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate the material. Don’t rub it roughly. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove the suds. Rinse the section with a clean, wet sponge. Wipe off what’s left with a slightly damp paper towel or cloth.


0 Then dry it immediately with a blow dryer or a heat lamp.


NOTICE: Be careful. A blow dryer or a heat lamp may scorch the fabric.


Wipe with a clean cloth.


Using Solvent-Type Cleaner on Fabric First, see if you have to use solvent-type cleaner at all. Some spots and stains will clean off better with just water and mild soap. If you need to use a solvent:


Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with a clean, dull knife or scraper. Use very little cleaner, light pressure and clean cloths (preferably cheesecloth). Cleaning should start at the outside of the stain, “feathering” toward the center. Keep changing to a clean section of the cloth. When you clean a stain from fabric, immediately dry the area with a blow dryer to help prevent a cleaning ring. (See the previous NOTICE.)


Special Cleaning Problems Greasy or Oily Stains Stains caused by grease, oil, butter, margarine, shoe polish, coffee with cream, chewing gum, cosmetic creams, vegetable oils, wax crayon, tar and asphalt can be removed as follows:


Carefully scrape off excess stain. Follow the solvent-type instructions aescribed earlier.


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Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. 0 Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You


may have to do it more than once.


0 Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if


you don't get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a GM vinyl/leather cleaner.


Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap. 0 For stubborn stains, use a GM vinyl/leather cleaner. 0 Ne\~ur L I S ~ oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. 0 Soiled leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt


is allowed t o work into finish, it can harm the leather.


0 Shoe polish, wax crayon, tar and asphalt will stain if left on a vehicle seat fabric. They sho~~ld be removed as soon as possible. Be careful, because the cleaner them to spread. will dissolve them and may c a ~ ~ s e


Non-Greasy Stains Stains caused by catsup, coffee (black), egg. fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, wine, vomit. urine and blood can be removed as follows:


Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water. If a stain remains. follow the foam-type instructions described earlier.


0 If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a waterhaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon ( 5 1111) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 1111) of lukewarm water. If needed, clean lightly with solvent-type cleaner.


Combination Stains Stains caused by candy. ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed a s follows:


Carefully scrape off excess stain, then clean with cool water and allow to dry.


0 If a stain remains. clean it with solvent-type cleaner. 6-40


Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.


Glass Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner (GM Part No. 1050427) or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove aormal. tobacco smoke and dust films.


Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon-Ami Powder@ (GM Part No. 105001 I ). The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Wiper blades should be checked on a regular basis and replaced when worn.


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Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended

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