2005 Saturn L Series Owners Manual

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Press this pushbutton to turn off random play. 6 RPT (Repeat): Press this pushbutton to hear a track over again. RPT will appear on the display. The current track will continue to repeat. Press RPT again to turn off repeat play. R REW (Rewind): Press and hold the down arrow to rewind quickly within a track. Release this button to play the passage. The elapsed time of the track will appear on the display. Q FF (Fast Forward): Press and hold the up arrow to advance quickly within a track. Release this button to play the passage. The elapsed time of the track will appear on the display. Q CD SEEK R: Press the up arrow to go to the previous CD. Press the down arrow to go to the next CD. RCL (Recall): Press this button to see the track number, press this button again to see how long the current track has been playing. AM FM: Press this button to listen to the radio when a CD is playing. The inactive CD will remain safely inside the radio for future listening. AUX (Auxiliary): Press this button to play a CD when listening to the radio. Press this button to switch between the tape, CD, and DVD (if equipped) if loaded. The inactive tape, CD, or DVD will remain safely inside the radio for future listening. CD Messages ERR (Error): If this message appears on the display and/or the CD comes out, it could be for one of the following reasons: • You are driving on a very rough road. When the road becomes smoother, the CD should play. • The CD is dirty, scratched, wet, or upside down. • The air is very humid. If so, wait about an hour and try again. • There may have been a problem while burning the CD. • The label may be caught in the CD player. If the CD is not playing correctly, for any other reason, try a known good CD. If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error cannot be corrected, contact your GM dealer. If the radio displays an error message, write it down and provide it to your GM dealer when reporting the problem. 3-51 Rear Seat Entertainment System Your vehicle may have a DVD Rear Seat Entertainment (RSE) system. The RSE system works with the vehicles audio system and includes a DVD radio, a video display screen, two sets of wireless headphones, and a remote control. Before You Drive The RSE system is designed for rear seat passengers only. The driver cannot safely view the video screen while driving and should not try to do so. In severe or extreme weather conditions the RSE system may or may not work until the temperature is within the operating range. The operating range for the RSE system is above −4°F (−20°C) or below 140°F (60°C). If the temperature of your vehicle is outside of this range, heat or cool the vehicle until the temperature is within the operating range of the RSE system. To resume operation, shut off the RSE, pull down the video screen and then heat or cool the vehicle until the temperature is within the operating range. 3-52 Headphones The RSE system includes two sets of wireless headphones. The headphones are used to listen to the DVD radio or an auxiliary device connected to the RCA jacks. The wireless headphones have an ON/OFF switch and a volume control. To use the headphones, turn the switch, located on the left side, to ON. An indicator light located on the headphones will illuminate. If the light does not illuminate, the batteries may need to be replaced. See “Battery Replacement” later in this section for more information. Switch the headphones to OFF when not in use. The transmitters are located in the display above the video screen. The headphones will shut off automatically to save the battery power if the DVD system is shut off or if the headphones are out of range of the transmitters for more than three minutes. If you move too far forward or step out of the vehicle, the headphones will lose the audio signal. If the RSE system is shut off or if the headphones are out of range of the transmitters, located at the top of the video screen, for more than three minutes, the headphones will shut off automatically to save battery power. If you move too far forward or step out of the vehicle, the headphones will lose the audio signal. To adjust the volume on the headphones, use the volume control located on the right side. Notice: Do not store the headphones in heat or direct sunlight. This could damage the headphones and repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Keep the headphones stored in a cool, dry place. Battery Replacement To change the batteries, do the following: 1. Slide open the battery door located on the left side of the headphones. 2. Replace the two AAA batteries in the compartment. Make sure that they are installed correctly. 3. Slide the battery door shut. If the headphones are to be stored for a long period of time, remove the batteries and keep them in a cool, dry place. Stereo RCA Jacks The RCA jacks are located on the faceplate of the DVD player. The RCA jacks allow audio or video signals to be connected from an auxiliary device such as a camcorder or a video game unit to the RSE system. Adapter connectors or cables may be required to connect the auxiliary device to the RCA jacks. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for proper usage. The RCA jacks are color coded to match typical home entertainment system equipment. The yellow jack (top) is for the video input. The white jack (middle) is for the left audio input. The red jack (bottom) is for the right audio input. 3-53 Video Screen The video screen is located in the overhead console. To use the auxiliary function, connect a camcorder or a video game unit to the RCA jacks and turn on the auxiliary device. If you want to view a DVD, insert the DVD into the DVD player. The system will automatically switch to DVD and start to play. To switch between the auxiliary device and the DVD, press the SOURCE button on the DVD player or on the remote control. See “DVD Player” and “Remote Control” later in this section for more information. Audio Output Only one audio source can be heard through the speakers at one time. Audio from the radio, cassette, or CD player will be heard through all speakers when the front audio system is being used. Sound from the DVD player or an auxiliary device can be heard through all speakers when the front audio system is off and a DVD auxiliary device is playing. To hear the DVD or an auxiliary device when the front audio system is on, use the headphones. 3-54 To use the video screen, do the following: 1. Push forward on the release button and the screen will fold down. 2. Pull the screen toward you and adjust its position as desired. When the video screen is not in use, push it up into its locked position. If a DVD is playing and the screen is raised to its locked position, the screen will shut off, but the DVD will continue to play through the previously selected audio source. Notice: Directly touching the video screen may damage it. Do not touch the screen. See “Cleaning the Video Screen” later in this section for more information. DVD Player The DVD player is located in the center console between the front seats. The DVD player can be controlled by the buttons on the DVD player and the remote control. See “Remote Control” later in this section for more information. The DVD player works while the ignition is in RUN or ACC. The RSE system is only compatible with DVDs authorized for use in the United States and Canada (Region Code 1). The DVD region code is printed on the jacket of most DVDs. Regular audio CDs, CD-R, CD-RW, and MP3s can also be played by the DVD player. 3-55 If the DVD does not begin playing the movie automatically, press play/pause button on the DVD player or the remote control. If the DVD still does not play, refer to the on-screen instructions. Stopping and Resuming Playback To stop playing a disc, press the stop/eject button on the DVD player. To resume playback, press the play/pause button. The movie should resume play from where it last stopped if the disc has not been ejected. If the disc has been ejected, the disc will resume playing at the beginning of the disc. Ejecting a Disc Press the stop/eject button on the DVD player once to stop and a second time to eject a disc. If a disc is ejected from the player, but not removed, the DVD player will reload the disc after a short period of time. The disc will be stored in the player. The player will not resume play of the disc automatically. DVD Player Buttons SOURCE: Press this button to switch the source for the RSE system between the auxiliary device (connected to the RCA jacks) and the DVD player. Pressing this button has no effect when an auxiliary device is not connected. p / j: Press this button to start play. Press while playing to pause. Press it again to continue playing. o / Z: Press this button to stop playing. Press this button a second time to eject the disc. Playing a Disc To play a disc, gently insert the disc, with the label side up, into the loading slot until it stops. The DVD player will continue loading the disc and the player will automatically start. If a disc is already in the player, press the play/pause button on the DVD player or the remote control to start playing the disc. Some DVDs will not allow fast forwarding or skipping of the copyright information or the previews. Some DVDs will begin playing after the previews have ﬁnished, although there may be a delay of up to 30 seconds. 3-56 Remote Control Buttons Remote Control To use the remote control, aim it at the display above the video screen and press the desired button. Direct sunlight or very bright light may affect the ability of the RSE system to receive signals from the remote control. If the remote control does not seem to be working, the batteries may need to be replaced. See “Battery Replacement” later in this section. Objects blocking the line of sight may also affect the function of the remote control. Notice: Storing the remote control in a hot area or in direct sunlight may damage it, and the repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Keep the remote control stored in a cool, dry place. k (Play/Pause): Press this button to play a disc. Press this button while a disc is playing to pause it. Press this button again to continue playing the disc. If you press and hold this button for 3 seconds or more, the DVD player will turn off. rFwd/q Rev (Fast Forward/Reverse): Press this right or left arrow once to fast forward or reverse the DVD. To resume play, press the button again or press the play/pause button. Pressing and holding an arrow will fast forward or fast reverse the DVD and play will resume when the arrow is released. These buttons may not work when the DVD is playing the copyright information or the previews. 3-57 QNext/R Prev (Next/Previous): Press the up or the down arrow to select the next or the previous chapter. These buttons may not work when the DVD is playing the copyright information or the previews. Menu: Press this button to view the media menu. The media menu is different for every disc. Use the up, down, right, and left arrow buttons to move the cursor around the media menu. After making the selection, press Enter. Some discs may contain a short skit leading up to the media menu. Source: Press this button to switch the source for the RSE system between the auxiliary device (connected to the RCA jacks) and the DVD player. Pressing this button has no effect when there is no auxiliary device connected. Battery Replacement To change the remote control batteries, do the following: 1. Remove the screw and open the battery compartment door located on the back of the remote control. 2. Replace the two AAA batteries in the compartment. Make sure that they are installed correctly. 3. Replace the battery door and the screw. If the remote control is to be stored for a long period of time, remove the batteries and keep them in a cool, dry place. DVD Distortion There may be an experience with video distortion when operating cellular phones, scanners, CB radios, Global Position Systems (GPS)*, two-way radios, mobile fax, or walkie talkies. It may be necessary to turn off the DVD player when operating one of these devices in or near the vehicle. *Excludes the OnStar® System. Cleaning the DVD Player When cleaning the outside DVD faceplate and buttons, use only a clean cloth dampened with clean water. Cleaning the Video Screen When cleaning the video screen, use only a clean cloth dampened with clean water. Use care when directly touching or cleaning the screen, as damage may result. Theft-Deterrent Feature The Radio with Cassette and CD and the Radio with Cassette and Six-Disc CD have a theft deterrent feature. 3-58 The theft deterrent feature is designed to discourage theft of your vehicle’s radio. It works by using a secret code to disable all radio functions whenever battery power is interrupted. The theft deterrent feature for the radio may be used or ignored. If ignored, the radio plays normally and the radio is not protected by the feature. If the theft deterrent feature is activated, the radio will not operate if stolen. When the theft deterrent feature is activated, LOCK will appear on the radio display to indicate a locked condition anytime battery power has been interrupted. If the battery loses power for any reason, you must unlock the radio with the secret code before it will operate. Activating the Theft-Deterrent Feature The instructions which follow explain how to enter your secret code to activate the theft deterrent feature. Read through all 10 steps before starting the procedure. If you allow more than 15 seconds to elapse between any steps, the radio automatically reverts to time and you must start the procedure over at Step 4. 1. Write down any four-digit number from 0000 to 9999 and keep it in a safe place separate from the vehicle. 2. Turn the ignition to RUN. 3. Turn the radio off. 4. Press the 5 and 6 pushbuttons at the same time for ﬁve seconds. -- -- -- -- will appear on the display. Next you will use the secret code number which you have written down. 5. Press the SEEK/SCAN up arrow to make the ﬁrst digit agree with your code. 6. Press the SEEK/SCAN down arrow to make the second digit agree with your code. 7. Press the TUNE up arrow to make the third digit agree with your code. 8. Press the TUNE down arrow to make the fourth digit agree with your code. 9. Press AM-FM after you have conﬁrmed that the code matches the secret code you have written down. REP will appear on the display to indicate that Steps 5 through 8 need to be repeated to conﬁrm your secret code. 10. Press AM-FM again. SEC will appear on the display to indicate that the radio is secure. If SEC is not displayed, but displays Err1, Err2, or LOCK, the theft deterrent feature is already set to another code. See “Disabling the Theft-Deterrent Feature” later in this section. 3-59 Unlocking the Theft-Deterrent Feature After a Power Loss Enter your secret code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between steps: 1. Turn the ignition on. -- -- -- -- will appear on the display. 2. Preform Steps 5 through 8 from the “Activating the Theft-Deterrent Feature” earlier to enter your secret code. 3. Press AM-FM after you have conﬁrmed that the code matches the secret code you have written down. SEC will appear on the display, indicating the radio is now operable and secure. If you enter the wrong code, the display will momentarily show an error message and all radio functions will continue to be disabled. If -- -- -- -- appears on the display, you can try to enter your secret code again. If you enter the wrong code three times, LOCK will appear on the display. Contact your Saturn retailer. Your Saturn retailer is authorized to obtain the factory programmed code that is assigned to the radio to reset the system. If you forget your code, if the theft deterrent feature is accidentally activated with an unknown code, or if the radio is in the locked mode, contact your Saturn retailer. 3-60 Disabling the Theft-Deterrent Feature Enter your secret code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between steps: Preform Steps 1 through 9 from the “Activating the Theft-Deterrent Feature” earlier to enter your secret code. OFF will appear on the display indicating the theft deterrent feature is off. If OFF does not appear on the display, the wrong code was entered. If you enter the wrong code, the display will momentarily show an error message and all radio functions will continue to be disabled. If -- -- -- -- appears on the display, you can try to enter your secret code again. If you enter the wrong code three times, LOCK will appear on the display. Contact your Saturn retailer. Your Saturn retailer is authorized to obtain the factory programmed code that is assigned to the radio to reset the system. If you forget your code, if the theft deterrent feature is accidentally activated with an unknown code, or if the radio is in the locked mode, contact your Saturn retailer. Radio Reception AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise. FM FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go. Care of Your Cassette Tape Player A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes, or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight, and extreme heat. If they are not, they may not operate properly or they may cause failure of the tape player. The tape player should be cleaned regularly after every 30 hours of use. The radio may display CLEAN to indicate that the tape player has been used for 30 hours without resetting the tape clean timer. If this message appears on the display, the cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but it should be cleaned as soon as possible to prevent damage to the tapes and player. If there is a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if the tape or the tape player is at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player. For best results, use a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn. The recommended cleaning cassette is available through your retailer. The cut tape detection feature of the cassette tape player may identify the cleaning cassette as a damaged tape, in error. If the cleaning cassette ejects, insert the cassette at least three times to ensure thorough cleaning. A non-scrubbing action, wet-type cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean the tape head can be used. This type of cleaning cassette will not eject on its own. A non-scrubbing action cleaner may not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner. The use of a non-scrubbing action, dry-type cleaning cassette is not recommended. 3-61 After the player is cleaned, insert a cassette tape, press and hold the eject button for ﬁve seconds to reset the CLEAN indicator. CLEAN will no longer appear on the display to show the indicator was reset. Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure the cassette tape is in good condition before the tape player is serviced. Care of Your CDs and DVDs Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge. Be sure never to touch the side without writing when handling discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge. Care of Your CD and DVD Player The use of CD lens cleaners for CDs is not advised, due to the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics with lubricants internal to the CD mechanism. Fixed Mast Antenna The ﬁxed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, replace it. Check occasionally to make sure the mast is still tightened to the rear quarter panel. 3-62 Section 4 Driving Your Vehicle Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle ..........4-2 Defensive Driving ...........................................4-2 Drunken Driving .............................................4-3 Control of a Vehicle ........................................4-6 Braking .........................................................4-6 Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) .........................4-7 Braking in Emergencies ...................................4-8 Traction Control System (TCS) .........................4-9 Steering ......................................................4-10 Off-Road Recovery .......................................4-13 Passing .......................................................4-13 Loss of Control .............................................4-15 Driving at Night ............................................4-16 Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads ..................4-17 City Driving ..................................................4-20 Freeway Driving ...........................................4-21 Before Leaving on a Long Trip .......................4-22 Highway Hypnosis ........................................4-23 Hill and Mountain Roads ................................4-24 Winter Driving ..............................................4-26 If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow ..............................................4-30 Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out .................4-31 Recovery Hook .............................................4-31 Loading Your Vehicle ....................................4-32 Towing ..........................................................4-37 Towing Your Vehicle .....................................4-37 Recreational Vehicle Towing ...........................4-37 Towing a Trailer ...........................................4-40 4-1 Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1-7. Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads, or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It is the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task — such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the ﬂoor — makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life. 4-2 Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It is the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: • Judgment • Muscular Coordination • Vision • Attentiveness Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 16,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured. Many adults — by some estimates, nearly half the adult population — choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if someone plans to drive? It is a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things: • The amount of alcohol consumed • The drinker’s body weight • The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking • The length of time it has taken the drinker to consume the alcohol 4-3 According to the American Medical Association, a 180 lb (82 kg) person who drinks three 12 ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4 ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of liquors like whiskey, gin, or vodka. It is the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight will when each has the same number of drinks. The law in most U.S. states, and throughout Canada, sets the legal limit at 0.08 percent. In some other countries, the limit is even lower. For example, it is 0.05 percent in both France and Germany. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we have seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them. 4-4 But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater! The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I will be careful” is not the right answer. What if there is an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There is something else about drinking and driving that many people do not know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord, or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking. {CAUTION: Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reﬂexes, perceptions, attentiveness, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious — or even fatal — collision if you drive after drinking. Please do not drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you are with a group, designate a driver who will not drink. 4-5 Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering, and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road. Sometimes, as when you are driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it is pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied. Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you are driving, brake normally but do not pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. 4-6 Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes. ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start your engine and begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves a little. This is normal. If there is a problem with the anti-lock brake system, this warning light will stay on. See Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light on page 3-28. Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel. 4-7 The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard. Remember: Anti-lock does not change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes. Using Anti-Lock Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down ﬁrmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may hear the anti-lock pump or motor operate, and feel the brake pedal pulsate, but this is normal. Braking in Emergencies With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking. As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. 4-8 Traction Control System (TCS) Your vehicle has a traction control system that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the front wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system works the front brakes and reduces engine power to limit wheel spin. You may feel or hear the system working, but this is normal. If your vehicle is in cruise control when the traction control system begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may reengage the cruise control. See Cruise Control on page 3-10. This light should come on brieﬂy when you start the engine. If it stays on or comes on while you are driving, there’s a problem with your traction control system. See Traction Control System (TCS) Warning Light on page 3-29. When this warning light is on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly. The traction control system automatically comes on whenever you start your vehicle. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But you can turn the traction control system off if you ever need to. You should turn the system off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud or snow and rocking the vehicle is required. See If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-30. 4-9 Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Steering Tips Driving on Curves It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here is why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you will understand this. To turn the system off, press the trac switch. The traction control system warning light will come on and stay on. If the system is limiting wheel spin when you press the button, the warning light will come on — but the system won’t turn off right away. It will wait until there’s no longer a current need to limit wheel spin. You can turn the system back on at any time by pressing the button again. The traction control system warning light should go off. 4-10 The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control systems — steering and braking — have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Unless you have four-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard braking can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. The same thing can happen if you are steering through a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems — steering and acceleration — can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose control. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you will want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. 4-11 Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and ﬁnd a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot; there is not room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes — but, unless you have anti-lock, not enough to lock your wheels. See Braking on page 4-6. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available. 4-12 An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly. Off-Road Recovery You may ﬁnd that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving. If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway. Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents — the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing: • Drive ahead. Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. • Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it is all right to pass, providing the road ahead is clear. Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic. 4-13 • Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you are awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you are following a larger vehicle. Also, you will not have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. • When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and do not get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a running start that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. • If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone is not trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot. • Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is. • Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle. • Do not overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not ﬂashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. • If you are being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right. 4-14 Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. If you have the anti-lock braking system, remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have anti-lock, then in a braking skid, where the wheels are no longer rolling, release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels are rolling, you will have steering control. 4-15 Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving. • Drive defensively. • Do not drink and drive. 4-16 • Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you. • Since you cannot see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. • Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. • In remote areas, watch for animals. • If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest. No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare, as from a driver who does not lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps, slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a ﬁlm caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and ﬂash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and are not even aware of it. Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you cannot stop, accelerate, or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires do not have much tread left, you will get even less traction. It is always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reﬂexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. 4-17 The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It is wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank ﬁlled with washer ﬂuid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts. Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow down before you hit them. {CAUTION: Wet brakes can cause accidents. They will not work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally. 4-18 Driving Through Flowing Water {CAUTION: Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through ﬂowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of ﬂowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through ﬂowing water. Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reﬂections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops dimple the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly. 4-19 Some Other Rainy Weather Tips • Turn on your low-beam headlamps — not just your parking lamps — to help make you more visible to others. City Driving • Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. • Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires on page 5-48. One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. 4-20 Freeway Driving Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: • Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. • Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 4-21. • Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light. Mile for mile, freeways — also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways — are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic ﬂow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. 4-21 The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that ﬁrst part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will ﬁnd experienced and able service experts at Saturn retailers all across North America. They will be ready and willing to help if you need it. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the ﬂow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic ﬂow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your blind spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. 4-22 Here are some things you can check before a trip: • Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? • Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? • Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? • Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? • Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inﬂated to the recommended pressure? • Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? • Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps? Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as highway hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: • Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. • Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently. • If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency. 4-23 If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. • Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all ﬂuid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system, and transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. • Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill. {CAUTION: If you do not shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope. Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in ﬂat or rolling terrain. 4-24 {CAUTION: Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill. • Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transaxle, and you can climb the hill better. • Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. • As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. • You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action. 4-25 Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: • Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. • You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your trunk. Also see Tires on page 5-48. Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer ﬂuid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a ﬂashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reﬂective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. 4-26 Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be very careful. What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has a traction control system, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you may want to turn the traction control system off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you will want to brake very gently, too. If you do have anti-lock, see Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-7. This system improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Whether you have the anti-lock braking system or not, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without anti-lock brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can. 4-27 Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if you brake so hard that your wheels stop rolling, you will just slide. Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer. • Whatever your braking system, allow greater following distance on any slippery road. • Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ﬁne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers. 4-28 If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: • Turn on your hazard ﬂashers. • Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow. • Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, ﬂoor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful. {CAUTION: Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out. Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. 4-29 Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution. {CAUTION: If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment ﬁre or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer. Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-31. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-61. 4-30 Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. You should turn your traction control system off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hook. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-37. Recovery Hook Your vehicle is equipped with a recovery hook. The recovery hook is provided at the rear of your vehicle. It can only be used for pulling your vehicle out. {CAUTION: The recovery hook, when used, is under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hook at a sideways angle. The hook could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back. Notice: Never use the recovery hook to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty. 4-31 Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Vehicle Certiﬁcation label. {CAUTION: Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle. 4-32 Tire and Loading Information Label Label Example A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will ﬁnd the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label lists the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also lists the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inﬂation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inﬂation, see Tires on page 5-48 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-54. There is also important loading information on the Certiﬁcation label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle, see “Certiﬁcation Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX pounds” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle. 3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kilograms or XXX pounds. 4. The resulting ﬁgure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be ﬁve 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs). 5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity for your vehicle. If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-40 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips. 4-33 Example 1 Example 2 Item Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = Total Item 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 300 lbs (136 kg) 700 lbs (317 kg) Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight = Total 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 750 lbs (340 kg) 250 lbs (113 kg) 4-34 Certiﬁcation Label Example 3 Item Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight = Total 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 0 lbs (0 kg) Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for speciﬁc information about your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight. A vehicle speciﬁc Certiﬁcation label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. 4-35 Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. If the vehicle is going to carry a heavy load, spread it out. Do not carry more than 167 lbs (75 kg) in your trunk. {CAUTION: Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. 4-36 If things like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else are put inside the vehicle, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going. {CAUTION: Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. (cid:127) Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly. (cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. (cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. (cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. (cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to. Towing Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following. Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: • What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations. • How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. • Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. • Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-22. 4-37 Dinghy Towing You may dinghy tow your vehicle from the front following these steps: 3. Shift your transaxle to NEUTRAL (N). 4. Open the lid on the underhood fuse block and remove the IGN 0/3/CR and IGN 1/2 fuses. Refer to the underside of the underhood fuse block cover for speciﬁc fuse locations. 5. Close the lid on the underhood fuse block and store the two fuses in a safe place. 6. Close the hood. 7. Release the parking brake. Once you have reached your destination replace the IGN 0/3/CR and IGN 1/2 fuses. Notice: towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed 65 mph (110 km/h) while towing your vehicle. If you exceed 65 mph (110 km/h) while 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock the steering wheel. 4-38 Dolly Towing Notice: Towing your vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed from the rear. Your vehicle can be towed using a dolly. To tow your vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing. 5. Release the parking brake. 4-39 Towing a Trailer {CAUTION: If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. 4-40 That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer If you do, here are some important points: • There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. • Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. • Do not tow a trailer at all during the ﬁrst 500 miles (805 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. • Then, during the ﬁrst 500 miles (805 km) that you tow a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. • Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts. Three important considerations have to do with weight: • the weight of the trailer, • the weight of the trailer tongue • and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (454 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at: Saturn Customer Assistance Center 100 Saturn Parkway Mail Code 371-999-S24 Spring Hill, TN 37174-1500 In Canada, write to: Saturn Customer Communication Centre General Motors of Canada, Ltd., 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7 4-41 Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity. After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. You will ﬁnd these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label, See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32. Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you are using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). 4-42 Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: • The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. • Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-25. Dirt and water can, too. Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Because your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you will want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. 4-43 Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal ﬂasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also ﬂash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. 4-44 Driving on Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transaxle overheating. Parking on Hills {CAUTION: You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P). When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb. 2. Have someone place chocks behind the trailer wheels. 3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P). 5. Release the regular brakes. 4-45 When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you: • start your engine, • shift into a gear, and • release the parking brake. 2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle ﬂuid (do not overﬁll), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you ﬁnd them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-23. 4-46 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ............................................................5-3 Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle ...........................................5-5 Fuel ................................................................5-5 Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-5 California Fuel ...............................................5-6 Additives .......................................................5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7 Filling Your Tank ............................................5-8 Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10 Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10 Hood Release ..............................................5-11 Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12 Engine Oil ...................................................5-13 Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-16 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-17 Automatic Transaxle Fluid ..............................5-20 Engine Coolant .............................................5-20 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-23 Engine Overheating .......................................5-23 Cooling System ............................................5-26 Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-31 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-32 Brakes ........................................................5-33 Battery ........................................................5-36 Jump Starting ...............................................5-37 Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-42 Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-42 Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker, and Parking Lamps ....................................5-42 Fog Lamps ..................................................5-44 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-45 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps .........................................5-45 Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-46 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-47 Tires ..............................................................5-48 Tire Sidewall Labelling ...................................5-49 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions .....................5-51 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-54 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-55 When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-56 Buying New Tires .........................................5-57 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-58 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-59 Wheel Replacement ......................................5-60 Tire Chains ..................................................5-61 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-62 5-1 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-62 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-64 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire ..........................................5-65 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-71 Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-72 Appearance Care ............................................5-73 Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-73 Vinyl ...........................................................5-75 Instrument Panel ..........................................5-75 Interior Plastic Components ............................5-75 Glass Surfaces .............................................5-75 Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-75 Weatherstrips ...............................................5-76 Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-76 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-76 Finish Care ..................................................5-76 Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................5-77 Aluminum Wheels .........................................5-78 Tires ...........................................................5-78 Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-79 Finish Damage .............................................5-79 Underbody Maintenance ................................5-79 Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-80 Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-80 Vehicle Identiﬁcation ......................................5-82 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) .................5-82 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label .....................5-82 Electrical System ............................................5-83 Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-83 Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-83 Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-83 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-83 Floor Console Fuse Block ..............................5-84 Engine Compartment Fuse Block ....................5-86 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ..........................5-89 5-2 Service Your Saturn retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your retailer for all your service needs. You will get genuine Saturn parts and Saturn-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your Saturn vehicle all Saturn. Genuine Saturn parts have one of these marks. California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. 5-3 {CAUTION: You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

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2005 Saturn L Series Owners Manual