Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =
Total
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
0 lbs (0 kg)
Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight.
A vehicle specific Certification label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo.
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Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. If the vehicle is going to carry a heavy load, spread it out. Do not carry more than 167 lbs (75 kg) in your trunk.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.
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If things like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else are put inside the vehicle, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.
{CAUTION:
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.
(cid:127) Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly.
(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,
inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.
(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint
in your vehicle.
(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down unless
you need to.
Towing
Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following.
Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: • What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.
• How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
• Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations.
• Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-22.
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Dinghy Towing You may dinghy tow your vehicle from the front following these steps:
3. Shift your transaxle to NEUTRAL (N). 4. Open the lid on the underhood fuse block and
remove the IGN 0/3/CR and IGN 1/2 fuses. Refer to the underside of the underhood fuse block cover for specific fuse locations.
5. Close the lid on the underhood fuse block and store
the two fuses in a safe place.
6. Close the hood. 7. Release the parking brake. Once you have reached your destination replace the IGN 0/3/CR and IGN 1/2 fuses. Notice: towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed 65 mph (110 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
If you exceed 65 mph (110 km/h) while
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock
the steering wheel.
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Dolly Towing
Notice: Towing your vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed from the rear.
Your vehicle can be towed using a dolly. To tow your vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead
position with a clamping device designed for towing.
5. Release the parking brake.
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Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.
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That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer If you do, here are some important points: • There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.
• Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
• Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (805 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.
• Then, during the first 500 miles (805 km) that you tow a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
• Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.
Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.
Three important considerations have to do with weight: • the weight of the trailer, • the weight of the trailer tongue • and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (454 kg). But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:
Saturn Customer Assistance Center
100 Saturn Parkway
Mail Code 371-999-S24
Spring Hill, TN 37174-1500
In Canada, write to:
Saturn Customer Communication Centre
General Motors of Canada, Ltd.,
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You will find these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label, See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32. Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
If you are using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B).
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Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: • The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
• Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-25. Dirt and water can, too. Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes Because your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you will want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.
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Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
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Driving on Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transaxle overheating. Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P). When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks behind
the trailer wheels.
3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular
brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you: • start your engine, • shift into a gear, and • release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (do not overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-23.
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Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Service ............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside
of Your Vehicle ...........................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel
...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling Your Tank ............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-13
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-16
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-17
Automatic Transaxle Fluid ..............................5-20
Engine Coolant .............................................5-20
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-23
Engine Overheating .......................................5-23
Cooling System ............................................5-26
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-31
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-32
Brakes ........................................................5-33
Battery ........................................................5-36
Jump Starting ...............................................5-37
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-42
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-42
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker,
and Parking Lamps ....................................5-42
Fog Lamps ..................................................5-44
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-45
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and
Back-up Lamps .........................................5-45
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-46
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-47
Tires ..............................................................5-48
Tire Sidewall Labelling ...................................5-49
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-51
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-54
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-55
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-56
Buying New Tires .........................................5-57
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-58
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-59
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-60
Tire Chains ..................................................5-61
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-62
5-1
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-62
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-64
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing
the Spare Tire ..........................................5-65
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-71
Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-72
Appearance Care ............................................5-73
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-73
Vinyl ...........................................................5-75
Instrument Panel
..........................................5-75
Interior Plastic Components ............................5-75
Glass Surfaces .............................................5-75
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-75
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-76
Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-76
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-76
Finish Care ..................................................5-76
Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................5-77
Aluminum Wheels .........................................5-78
Tires ...........................................................5-78
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-79
Finish Damage .............................................5-79
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-79
Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-80
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-80
Vehicle Identification ......................................5-82
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................5-82
Service Parts Identification Label .....................5-82
Electrical System ............................................5-83
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-83
Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-83
Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-83
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-83
Floor Console Fuse Block ..............................5-84
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ....................5-86
Capacities and Specifications ..........................5-89
5-2
Service Your Saturn retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your retailer for all your service needs. You will get genuine Saturn parts and Saturn-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your Saturn vehicle all Saturn. Genuine Saturn parts have one of these marks.
California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.
5-3
{CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.
(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.
(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts
and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-9. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-54. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-15.
5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle.
Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.
Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by automobile manufacturers around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org/fuel_charter.htm. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.
5-5
California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-31 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized Saturn retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.
Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Also, your retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.
5-6
Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Saturn retailer for service.
Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.
5-7
The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right.
While refueling, let the fuel cap hang by the tether below the fuel fill opening.
Filling Your Tank
{CAUTION:
Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.
5-8
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-31.
If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-76. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it to the right (clockwise) until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-31.
5-9
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
{CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:
(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved
containers.
(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground.
(cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.
Checking Things Under the Hood
{CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
5-10
Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:
1. Pull the handle with
this symbol on it. It is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, under the instrument panel.
2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and lift up on
the secondary hood release lever.
3. Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its
retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood.
Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then just let the hood down and close it firmly.
5-11
Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3.0L V6 (L81) engine, you will see the following:
5-12
A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-17 for more information.
B. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under
Engine Oil on page 5-13 for more information.
C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-13 for more information.
D. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-33 for more information.
E. Power Steering Fluid. See Power Steering Fluid on
page 5-31 for more information.
F. Battery. See Battery on page 5-36 for more
information.
G. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System
on page 5-26 for more information.
H. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-32 for more information.
Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the MIN mark, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-89. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.
5-13
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.
Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: • GM6094M
Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.
5-14
• SAE 5W-30
As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.
Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).
You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.
Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting
GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American
Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines
starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended
oil can result in engine damage not covered by
your warranty.
If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the
temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is
recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide
easier cold starting and better protection for your engine
at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils
with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard
GM6094M are all you will need for good performance
and engine protection.
5-15
How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a change engine oil light being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, reset the system by performing the following steps: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal three
times within five seconds. If the change engine oil light is flashing, the system is reset. The light will flash for up to 30 seconds or until the ignition is turned off.
If the light comes on again and stays on for 30 seconds at the next ignition cycle, it did not reset. You will need to reset the system again.
Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine Saturn parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.
5-16
What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace at the first oil change after 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.
5-17
To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following:
1. Remove the hose clamp that is on the inlet duct on
the cover and pull off the hose.
2. Release the two clips and turn the cover upward to
unhook the hinges.
3. Pull the air cleaner/filter box cover out and remove
the air filter element from the air filter box. If the element is dirty, you should replace it. If the element is only dusty, it may be cleaned by blowing compressed air through it from the clean side. Make sure you are away from your engine compartment when cleaning the air filter with compressed air.
5-18
4. Wipe all dust from inside the housing and inspect
the air cleaner and air inlet tube for cracks, cuts and deterioration. The air inlet tube must be replaced if it is damaged.
5. Install the air filter element, hose, hose clamp
and cover.
6. Latch the two clips.
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flame if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can
Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.
5-19
Automatic Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to retailer’s service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have your fluid level checked by your retailer or service center when you have your oil changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: • In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
• In hilly or mountainous terrain. • When doing frequent trailer towing. • Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing. Notice: Use of automatic transaxle fluid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transaxle fluid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification.
5-20
Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 100,000 miles (166 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-23. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: • Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). • Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). • Protect against rust and corrosion. • Help keep the proper engine temperature. • Let the warning lights and gages work as
they should.
Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
If you use an improper coolant mixture, your
Notice: engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your retailer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.
If you use the proper coolant, you do not
What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
5-21
Checking Coolant The surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.
{CAUTION:
Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.
5-22
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the Cold line (surge tank seam). When your engine is warm, the level should be at the Cold line or a little higher. If the low coolant light comes on and stays on, it means you are low on engine coolant. See Low Coolant Warning Light on page 3-30.
Adding Coolant
If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL®
coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the
engine is cool. See Engine Overheating on page 5-23
for instructions on “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant
Surge Tank.”
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. If you replace your coolant surge tank pressure cap, a Saturn cap is required.
Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage and a coolant temperature warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-30 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-29. You will also find a low coolant level warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Low Coolant Warning Light on page 3-30.
5-23
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant light, can indicate a serious problem. See Low Coolant Warning Light on page 3-30. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant light, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: • Climb a long hill on a hot day. • Stop after high-speed driving. • Idle for long periods in traffic. • Tow a trailer.
If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.
If your engine catches fire because you
Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
5-24
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.
3. Try to minimize engine load. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear possible while driving.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally.
If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
5-25
Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:
{CAUTION:
An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at the COLD line (surge tank seam). If it is not, you may have a leak at the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.
A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Fan
5-26
Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.
5-27
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-20 for more information.
{CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
5-28
CAUTION:
(Continued)
Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
In cold weather, water can freeze and crack
Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure
cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about one-quarter of a turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and
remove it.
5-29
3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper
DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, to the COLD line.
4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start
the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the COLD line.
5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the
pressure cap is hand-tight.
5-30
Check the level in the surge tank when the cooling system has cooled down. If the coolant is not at the proper level, repeat Steps 1 through 3 then reinstall the pressure cap. If the coolant is not at the proper level when the system cools down again, see your retailer.
Power Steering Fluid
The power steering fluid
reservoir is located toward
the front of the engine
compartment on the
driver’s side of the vehicle.
See Engine Compartment
Overview on page 5-12
for reservoir location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment
cool down.
2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a
clean rag.
4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level
on the dipstick.
The level should be at the “C” mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
5-31
Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield or rear window washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Windshield Washer Fluid
Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.
Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow
the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.
Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.
5-32
(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder
reservoir is filled with
DOT-3 brake fluid. See
Engine Compartment
Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the
reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.
So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-27.
5-33
What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
{CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-73.
Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.
5-34
(cid:127) {CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to Saturn torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved Saturn replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
5-35
Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location.
Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-37 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-58.
Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
5-36
Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or
(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to
ignite.
burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
Ignoring these steps could result in costly
Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt
Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper
cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.
5-37
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
If you leave your radio or other accessories
Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!
4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.
{CAUTION:
An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
5-38
{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
6. Remove the terminal cover and connect the red
positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. The positive (+) terminal on your vehicle is covered by a red protector cap which must be removed before you connect the positive (+) jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery.
5-39
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect
it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at
least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Press UNLOCK on the remote keyless entry
transmitter to disarm your security system (if equipped).
12. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.
If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
If the jumper cables are removed in the
Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
5-40
Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery
To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other
vehicle.
5. Return the terminal cover to its original position.
5-41
Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-46. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your retailer.
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal,
Sidemarker, and Parking Lamps
1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
5-42
2. Remove push-pin fasteners from the grill assembly. 3. Tilt the grill assembly forward and lift it up to
remove it from the vehicle.
4. Remove the fasteners from the headlamp assembly.
5. Push the headlamp housing lever up to disengage the headlamp housing from the headlamp housing pocket.
6. Turn the bulb socket being replaced
counterclockwise one-quarter of a turn while pressing the socket in firmly.
7. Pull the socket rearward until the bulb clears the headlamp housing, and lift it up to access the bulb.
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Fog Lamps 1. Locate the fog lamp by reaching up from
underneath the front body panel.
2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise one-quarter
of a turn while pressing the socket in firmly.
3. Pull the socket rearward until the bulb clears the
fog lamp housing.
8. Disconnect the wire connector from the bulb by lifting the lock tab and pulling it away from the plastic base.
9. Remove the bulb assembly and replace it with
the appropriate bulb.
10. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp
assembly.
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4. Disconnect the wire connector from the bulb by lifting the lock tab and pulling it away from the plastic base.
5. Remove the bulb assembly and replace it with
the appropriate bulb.
6. Reverse the steps to reinstall the fog lamp
assembly.
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) 1. Remove the center high-mounted stoplamp cover
by pulling down on the cover edges. 2. Turn the bulb socket being replaced
counterclockwise one-quarter of a turn and remove the bulb.
3. Replace it with the appropriate bulb. 4. Replace the cover.
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps
and Back-up Lamps
1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
2. Pull back the interior trim.
3. Remove the fasteners from the backside of the
taillamp assembly.
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Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamp
Back-up Lamps
CHMSL
Fog Lamps
Front Park/Turn Lamps
Front Sidemarker Lamps
Headlamps
High-Beam
Low-Beam
Rear Turn Lamps
Stop/Taillamps
Bulb Number
P21W21019520
PC16825085970
880L12450143
34571999381
W5W12092811
—
9005 HB39441732
9006 HB49441733
P21W21019521
P21/5W21019520
For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your retailer.
4. Remove the taillamp assembly. 5. Turn the bulb socket being replaced
counterclockwise one-quarter of a turn while pressing the socket in firmly.
6. Pull the socket rearward until the bulb clears the
taillamp assembly.
7. Replace it with the appropriate bulb. 8. Reverse the steps to reinstall the taillamp assembly.
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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Windshield Wipers, Blade Check” under Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. Here’s how to remove the wiper blades: 1. Turn on the wipers to the low wipe setting. 2. Turn off the ignition while the wipers are at the outer positions of the wiper pattern. The blades are more accessible for removal/replacement while in this position.
3. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the
windshield.
4. While holding the wiper arm away from the glass,
push the release clip from under the blade connecting point and pull the old blade assembly down toward the glass to remove it from the wiper arm.
5. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper
arm until you hear the release clip “click” into place.
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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Saturn Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s owner manual.
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{CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.
(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause
overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-54.
(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your
tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.
Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example
(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.
(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-58. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.
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(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-54. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.
Compact Spare Tire Example
(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or
temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately
3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven
at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare
tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire
has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact
spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-72
and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-62.
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Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.
(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.
Tire Terminology and Definitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kiloPascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.
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Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-54. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front
axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle,
see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an
asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when
mounted on a vehicle.
KiloPascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty
trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.
Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air
pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The
maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the
maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb
weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight;
and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a
vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg).
See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.
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Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-54 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.
Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-56. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and