2008 Pontiac VIBE Owners Manual

danger.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

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(cid:129) While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. If you have the Antilock Brake System (ABS), remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have ABS, then in a braking skid, where the wheels are no longer rolling, release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.

Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited.

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Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside

rearview mirror.

(cid:129) Slow down and keep more space between you and

other vehicles because your headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.

(cid:129) Watch for animals. (cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. (cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle

clean — inside and out.

(cid:129) Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or

curves.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.

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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.

{CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:129) Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled. (cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread depth.

See Tires on page 5-49.

Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows

clean — inside and outside?

(cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape?

Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to recommended pressure?

(cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have up-to-date

maps?

Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead

(cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments

and to the sides.

often.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep your vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:129) Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling

system, and transmission.

(cid:129) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a lower gear.

{CAUTION:

If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.

{CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

(cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut

across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).

(cid:129) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks

area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.

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(cid:129) Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:129) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:129) You might want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 5-49. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be very careful.

What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it can offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution.

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Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Unless your vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), you want to brake very gently, too. If you do have ABS, see Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4. ABS improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Whether your vehicle has ABS or not, begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without ABS, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can. Remember, unless your vehicle has ABS, if you brake so hard that the wheels stop rolling, you will just slide. Brake so the wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer. (cid:129) Whatever your vehicle’s braking system, allow

greater distance on any slippery road.

(cid:129) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under

bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:

Turn on the hazard warning flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow.

(cid:129) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

{CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.

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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-19. If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.

{CAUTION:

If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-68.

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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability system. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6 and StabiliTrak® System on page 4-7. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. Or, you can use the recovery hook. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-25.

Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification label.

{CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

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The Tire and Loading Information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. This weight includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the tire size of the original equipment tires (C), and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-49 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-55. There is also important loading information on the Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certification Label” later in this section.

Tire and Loading Information Label

Label Example

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker).

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Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver

and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.

3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.

4. The resulting figure equals the available

amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).

5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.

6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load

from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle.

If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-27 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.

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Example 1

Example 2

Item

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) x 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =

Total

Item

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

300 lbs (136 kg)

700 lbs (317 kg)

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) x 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

750 lbs (340 kg)

250 lbs (113 kg)

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Example 3

Item

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) x 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

0 lbs (0 kg)

Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating

positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight. Certification Label

Label Example

A vehicle specific Certification label is attached to the center pillar, near the driver’s door latch. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle.

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And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. See “Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit” earlier in this section.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.

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Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

(cid:129) Put things in the rear area of your vehicle.

Try to spread the weight evenly. If you have fold-down rear seats, you will find four anchors on the back wall of your trunk. You can use these anchors to tie down lighter loads. They are not strong enough for heavy things, however, so put them as far forward as you can in the trunk or rear area.

(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,

inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

(cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint

in your vehicle.

(cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless

you need to.

Towing

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.

Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).

With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

(cid:129) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have

restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. (cid:129) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-13.

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(cid:129) Dinghy Towing If your vehicle has an automatic transaxle, it cannot be dinghy towed. See “Dolly Towing” for more information regarding towing your vehicle. If your vehicle has a manual transaxle, it can be dinghy towed.

When dinghy towing, be sure to follow the posted legal speed limit. 1. Put the shift lever in NEUTRAL. 2. Turn the ignition to ACC to avoid locking the steering wheel. Make sure the audio system is turned off and that nothing is plugged into the power outlets.

3. Release the parking brake. After dinghy towing, let the engine idle for more than three minutes before driving the vehicle.

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Do not tow your vehicle from the rear. Your vehicle could be badly damaged and the repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

Dolly Towing

To tow your vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P) for an automatic

transaxle and in NEUTRAL for a manual transaxle.

3. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead

position with a clamping device designed for towing.

4. Release the parking brake.

Towing a Trailer

{CAUTION:

If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the vehicle trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.

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That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

(cid:129) Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch

dealer about sway controls.

(cid:129) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

(cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires

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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-5
for more information. Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you

may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-19 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

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Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. And, if you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both systems won’t work well, or at all.

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Tire and Loading Information label located on the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-19. Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: (cid:129) Don’t let the steel in a hitch contact the aluminum on your bumper. If you do, the two will corrode. You can use something like paint or plastic tape to separate the steel and aluminum. The same steel to aluminum problem can happen with fasteners too.

(cid:129) Will you have to make any holes in the body of your

vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-32. Dirt and water can too.

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Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch, platform and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transaxle overheating.

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Parking on Hills

{CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle or into gear for a manual transaxle, yet. When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer

wheels.

3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular

brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle or REVERSE (R) for a manual transaxle.

5. Release the regular brakes.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

start your engine shift into a gear, and release the parking brake

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the

chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-26.

4-33

(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) ✍ NOTES

4-34

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-3
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside

of Your Vehicle ...........................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel ...............................................5-5
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-6
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .......................5-9
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-10
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-13
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-17
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-19
Manual Transmission Fluid .............................5-21
Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-22
Engine Coolant .............................................5-23
Radiator Pressure Cap ..................................5-26
Engine Overheating .......................................5-26

Cooling System ............................................5-28
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-33
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-34
Brakes ........................................................5-35
Battery ........................................................5-38
Jump Starting ...............................................5-38
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-42
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-43
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-43
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal,

and Parking Lamps ....................................5-43
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-45
Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps ............5-46
Back-Up Lamps ............................................5-47
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-48
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-48
Tires ..............................................................5-49
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-50
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-52
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-55
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-57
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-58
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-61
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-63
Buying New Tires .........................................5-63

5-1

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-65
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-65
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-67
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-67
Tire Chains ..................................................5-68
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-69
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-70
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-71
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing

the Spare Tire ..........................................5-73
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-79
Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-81
Appearance Care ............................................5-82
Interior Cleaning ...........................................5-82
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-83
Leather .......................................................5-84
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other

Plastic Surfaces ........................................5-84
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-85
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-85
Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-85
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-86
Finish Care ..................................................5-86
Windshield, Backglass, and

Wiper Blades ............................................5-87

5-2

Aluminum Wheels .........................................5-87
Tires ...........................................................5-88
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-88
Finish Damage .............................................5-88
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-88
Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-88
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-89
Vehicle Identification ......................................5-90
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................5-90
Service Parts Identification Label .....................5-90
Electrical System ............................................5-90
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-90
Headlamp Wiring ..........................................5-91
Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-91
Power Windows and Other

Power Options ..........................................5-91
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-91
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..........................5-92
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ....................5-93
Capacities and Specifications ..........................5-95
Maintenance Replacement Parts ......................5-96
Engine Drive Belt Routing ..............................5-97

Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-65.

California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.

5-3

California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless entry transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate.

Doing Your Own Service Work

{CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

(cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

(cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,

and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-64.

5-4

You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Part E: Maintenance Record on page 6-21. Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information.

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-36. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by your warranty.

5-5

Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.

Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.

5-6

Filling the Tank

{CAUTION:

Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.

The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

5-7

The fuel door release lever is located near the floor under the driver’s seat on the outboard side.

{CAUTION:

Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank, and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-85. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-36.

To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. On some vehicles you may have to push in while turning the cap. While refueling, hang the fuel cap inside of the fuel door.

5-8

{CAUTION:

If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get

Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-36.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

{CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

(cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved

containers.

(cid:129) Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.

(cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

(cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while

pumping fuel.

5-9

Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

1. Pull the release handle

with this symbol on it. It is located below the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel.

{CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

5-10

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the secondary hood release. The lever is located near the middle of the hood.

3. Lift the hood. 4. Release the hood prop rod from its retainer and put it into the slot in the hood. To insert the hood prop rod into the slot, move it straight up. If it is moved to the side or toward the inside of the vehicle, it may become detached.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Make sure to return the hood prop rod carefully back to its retainer to avoid damaging the vehicle.

5-11

Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood, here is what you will see:

5-12

A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding

Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-34.

B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering

Fluid on page 5-33.

C. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap

on page 5-26.

D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-13.

E. Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System on

page 5-28.

F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-13.

G. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped).

See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-19.

H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir and Hydraulic

Clutch (If Equipped). See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-35 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-22.

I. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air

Cleaner/Filter on page 5-17.

J. Battery. See Battery on page 5-38. K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine

Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-93.

Engine Oil

If the engine oil pressure light appears on the instrument cluster, check the engine oil level right away.

For more information, see Oil Pressure Light on page 3-38. You should check the engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

5-13

When to Add Engine Oil

If the oil is below the indent at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-95. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper hole, the engine could be damaged.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.

5-14

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use

Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M

Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.

(cid:129) SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

(cid:129) Oils meeting these

requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommend that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures.

5-15

Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection.

When to Change Engine Oil Change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles (8 000 km) or 3 months, whichever occurs first. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.

5-16

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

The engine air cleaner/filter is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.

When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the air cleaner/filter at each engine oil change. Replace the filter every 30,000 miles (48 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4 for more information. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.

5-17

To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following:

{CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can

Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.

1. Release the two clips that hold the cover down. 2. Lift the cover off. 3. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 4. Reinstall the cover.

5-18

Automatic Transmission Fluid

When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Check the fluid in the transmission and differential at the intervals listed in Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19.

How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department.

If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:129) At high speed for quite a while.

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

(cid:129) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 158°F to 176°F (70°C to 80°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.

5-19

(cid:129) Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift

lever in PARK (P).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

4. Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The automatic transmission dipstick has an orange handle and is located near the front of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Release the tab and pull out the dipstick and

wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds

and then pull it back out again.

5-20

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be between the two dimples in the hot range.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push

the dipstick back in all the way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the area between dimples on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have your manual transaxle fluid level checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transaxle does not require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your dealer/retailer service department.

5-21

If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transaxle is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transaxle case. Then, follow these steps: 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom

of the filler plug hole.

3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be

sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add Fluid Here is how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough

fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated.

Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check the fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid will not correct a leak. The hydraulic clutch and brake master cylinder use the same reservoir. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

5-22

When to Check and What to Use

The reservoir is located at the back of the engine compartment, on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-12
and Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. How to Check and Add Fluid Check to make sure that the fluid level is at or above the MIN mark. If the level is below the MIN mark, see the instructions on the reservoir cap.

Engine Coolant Your vehicle was factory-filled with a coolant developed to last for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first. When coolant is added or changed, use DEX-COOL® coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (− 37°C). (cid:129) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:129) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Help keep the proper engine temperature.

Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

5-23

(cid:129) What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your

Notice: engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19 for more information. Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at LOW, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL, or a little higher. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the coolant recovery tank.

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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

{CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-28.

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If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,

Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-35.

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

If your engine catches fire because you

Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

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If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:129) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)

while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the windows as necessary.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.

A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank C. Radiator Pressure Cap

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{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23
for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

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{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

3. Fill the radiator with the proper coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

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4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the

FULL mark.

5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank,

but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the

upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during

this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the ears on the pressure cap are in line with the vent tube.

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Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid You can check your fluid without taking the cap off. Just look at the reservoir. (cid:129) When the engine compartment is hot, the level

should be between the HOT marks.

(cid:129) When the engine compartment is cool, the level

should be between the COLD marks.

What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. Notice: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid If your vehicle has the low windshield washer fluid level warning light, it will come on when the fluid level is too low. See Low Washer Fluid Warning Light on page 3-40.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow

the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.

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(cid:129) Brakes Brake Fluid

The hydraulic clutch and brake master cylinder use the same reservoir. It is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake hydraulic system or the hydraulic clutch system. If it is, have that system fixed immediately, since a leak means that the brakes will not work well.

It is not a good idea to top off the brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system.

When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-32.

5-35

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-85.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake

hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

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(cid:129) Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 5-95. Rear drum brakes do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-18. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required.

Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, the disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, the brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so the brakes will adjust properly.