2006 Pontiac VIBE Owners Manual

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(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-10 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 1. Pull the release handle with this symbol on it. It is located below the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the secondary hood release. The lever is located near the middle of the hood. 3. Lift the hood. 4. Release the hood prop rod from its retainer and put it into the slot in the hood. To insert the hood prop rod into the slot, move it straight up. If it is moved to the side or toward the inside of the vehicle, it may become detached. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Make sure to return the hood prop rod carefully back to its retainer to avoid damaging the vehicle. 5-11 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood of the 1.8L L4 (VIN Code 8) engine, you will see the following: 5-12 A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-36. G. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-21. B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-35. C. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap on page 5-28. D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. E. Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System on page 5-30. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir and Hydraulic Clutch (If Equipped). See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-37 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-25. I. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. J. Battery. See Battery on page 5-40. K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-94. 5-13 When you open the hood of the 1.8L L4 (VIN Code L) engine, you will see the following: 5-14 A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-36. G. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-21. B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-35. C. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap on page 5-28. D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. E. Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System on page 5-30. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir and Hydraulic Clutch (If Equipped). See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-37 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-25. I. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. J. Battery. See Battery on page 5-40. K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-94. 5-15 Engine Oil If the engine oil pressure light appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see Oil Pressure Light on page 3-38. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. 5-16 When to Add Engine Oil 1.8L L4 (VIN Code 8) Engine 1.8L L4 (VIN Code L) Engine If the oil is below the indent at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-96. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper hole, your engine could be damaged. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. 5-17 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. 5-18 Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommend that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil Change the oil and ﬁlter every 5,000 miles (8 000 km) or 3 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-5. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help. 5-19 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter, do the following: The engine air cleaner/ﬁlter is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at each engine oil change. Replace the ﬁlter every 30,000 miles (48 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4 for more information. 5-20 1. Release the two clips that hold the cover down. 2. Lift the cover off. Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transaxle Fluid A good time to check your automatic transaxle ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Check the ﬂuid in the transaxle and differential at the intervals listed in Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4, and be sure to use the transaxle ﬂuid listed in Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. 3. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 4. Reinstall the cover. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. 5-21 How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 158°F to 176°F (70°C to 80°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. 2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). 4. Let the engine run at idle for three to ﬁve minutes. 5-22 (cid:127) Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The automatic transaxle dipstick has an orange handle and is located near the front of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Release the tab and pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be between the two dimples in the hot range. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place. How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle ﬂuid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level into the area between dimples on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough ﬂuid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle ﬂuid listed in Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. 3. After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section. 4. When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place. 5-23 Then, follow these steps: 1. Remove the ﬁller plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. 3. If the ﬂuid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the ﬂuid level is low, add more ﬂuid as described in the next steps. How to Add Fluid Here is how to add ﬂuid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of ﬂuid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. 1. Remove the ﬁller plug. 2. Add ﬂuid at the ﬁller plug hole. Add only enough ﬂuid to bring the ﬂuid level up to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. 3. Install the ﬁller plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. Manual Transaxle Fluid When to Check A good time to have your manual transaxle ﬂuid level checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the ﬂuid in your manual transaxle does not require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Pontiac dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle ﬂuid. Check the ﬂuid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transaxle is cool enough for you to rest your ﬁngers on the transaxle case. 5-24 Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. It is not necessary to regularly check the ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding ﬂuid will not correct a leak. The hydraulic clutch and brake master cylinder use the same reservoir. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. When to Check and What to Use The reservoir is located at the back of the engine compartment, on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the ﬂuid level in your master cylinder reservoir and for the proper ﬂuid. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-13 and Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. How to Check and Add Fluid Check to make sure that the ﬂuid level is at or above the MIN mark. If the level is below the MIN mark, see the instructions on the reservoir cap. 5-25 Engine Coolant Your vehicle was factory-ﬁlled with a coolant developed to last for ﬁve years or 100,000 miles (160 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst. When coolant is added or changed, use DEX-COOL® coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-28. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-26 What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. (cid:127) If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19 for more information. Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at LOW, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL, or a little higher. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the coolant recovery tank. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. {CAUTION: Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-30. 5-27 If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-35. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. 5-28 If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. 5-29 (cid:127) (cid:127) Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system. A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank C. Radiator Pressure Cap 5-30 {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant. 5-31 In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it. {CAUTION: {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL mark, start your vehicle. Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 5-32 How to Add Coolant to the Radiator 3. Fill the radiator with the proper coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. 1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it ﬁrst stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap. 5-33 4. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the FULL mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off. 6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. 7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper coolant mixture through the ﬁller neck until the level reaches the base of the ﬁller neck. 8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the ears on the pressure cap are in line with the vent tube. 5-34 Power Steering Fluid The power steering ﬂuid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid You can check your ﬂuid without taking the cap off. Just look at the reservoir. (cid:127) When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be between the HOT marks. (cid:127) When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be between the COLD marks. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. Notice: When adding power steering ﬂuid or making a complete ﬂuid change, always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. 5-35 Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid If your vehicle has the low windshield washer ﬂuid level warning light, it will come on when the ﬂuid level is too low. See Low Washer Fluid Warning Light on page 3-40. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. 5-36 (cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid The hydraulic clutch and brake master cylinder use the same reservoir. It is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system or the hydraulic clutch system. If it is, have that system ﬁxed immediately, since a leak means that your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-32. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. 5-37 Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-85. Brake Wear The GT series has four-wheel disc brakes. All other models have front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. 5-38 (cid:127) Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. If you have rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-18. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. 5-39 Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-41 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. 5-40 Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to or ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. 5-41 {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. 5-42 {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 5-43 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. 5-44 Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. All-Wheel Drive If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. Transfer Case (Power Transfer Unit) When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-17. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. Carrier Assembly-Differential (Rear Drive Module) When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem; check and have it repaired, if needed. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-19. 5-45 Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps A. Headlamp B. Turn Signal/Parking Lamp Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-51. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. 5-46 To replace the headlamp, turn signal, or parking lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood and locate the lamp assembly. 2. Remove the rubber cover and socket from the headlamp or turn signal/parking lamp. 3. Release the retainer clip holding the bulb on the headlamp by pressing down and moving the metal retainer away from you. Turn the turn signal/parking lamp bulb socket counterclockwise to remove. 4. Pull the bulb out of the ﬁxture. 5. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb. 5-47 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) To replace the center high-mounted stoplamp bulb, do the following: 1. Locate the bulb which is on the inside of the liftgate/liftglass near the top. 2. Remove the two clips on both sides of the cover and remove it. 3. Remove the two screws from the CHMSL housing. Then remove the housing to expose the bulb. 5-48 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing. 5. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 6. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps A. Stoplamp/Taillamp B. Turn Signal Lamp To replace the turn signal and/or stop/taillamp bulbs, do the following: 1. Remove the storage compartment cover in the rear cargo area of the vehicle to access the bulbs. 5-49 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing. Back-Up Lamps The back-up lamp bulb is located in the bumper. 3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. 5. Reinstall the cover. To replace the back-up lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Reach up under the rear fascia to locate the back-up lamp housing. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing. 3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb. 5-50 Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Back-Up Lamp CHMSL Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamp Headlamp High/Low-Beam Rear Turn Signal Stoplamp/Taillamp 7440 921 1157NA 9003 7440 7443 For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” under At Least Twice a Year on page 6-14 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the windshield. 2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly toward the driver’s side of the vehicle. 3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2. 5-51 CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner Manual. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-52 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger car tire and a compact spare tire sidewall. Passenger Car Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (E) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-66. (F) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. 5-53 (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-81 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. Compact Spare Tire Example (A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-81 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-69. 5-54 Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger car tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 70, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70% as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and the speed rating of a tire. The load range represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. 5-55 Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. 5-56 Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64. 5-57 UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-66. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: Too much ﬂexing Too much heat Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards 5-58 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-81. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they are under-inﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. 5-59 Tire Pressure Monitor System If your vehicle has this feature, it is designed to alert you when the system detects a large change in the pressure of one tire. The system cannot alert you before you drive that a tire is low or ﬂat. You must begin driving before the system will work properly. The system works with the brake control system and is designed to detect differences in the tire rotation speeds that are caused by changes in tire pressure. The tire pressure monitoring system does not replace normal tire maintenance, see Tires on page 5-52, Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-62 and When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64. This light, on the instrument panel cluster, comes on when the tire pressure monitoring system detects a low-tire condition. This light will also come on for a few seconds and then go off when you turn the ignition to ON. This indicates that the tire pressure monitoring system is functioning properly. If the low-tire pressure warning light comes on while driving your vehicle, the system may have 5-60 detected a low-tire condition. You need to stop as soon as possible and check your tires for damage. If a tire is ﬂat, see If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-69 and Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70. Also check the tire pressure in all four tires, and set them to the speciﬁed level shown on the tire and loading label. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58 for additional information. Note: The tire pressure monitoring system on your vehicle will warn you when one of your tires is signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated and when some combinations of your tires are signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated. However, there are other combinations of signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated tires for which your tire pressure monitoring system may not warn you. These other combinations are relatively common, accounting for approximately half the instances in which vehicles have signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated tires. For example, your system may not warn you when both tires on the same side or on the same axle of your vehicle are signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated. It is particularly important, therefore, for you to check the tire pressure in all of your tires regularly and maintain proper pressure. In order for the tire pressure monitoring system to work properly you will need to reset (initialize) the tire pressure monitoring system. Any time you check and/or adjust a tire’s pressure, repair or replace a tire or wheel or rotate the tires the tire pressure monitor system needs to be reset. Do not reset (initialize) the system without ﬁrst correcting the cause of the low-tire condition. If the system is reset when the tire pressures are incorrect, the system will not function properly and may not alert you when a tire is low. To reset (initialize) the system: 1. Park the vehicle at a safe place and apply the parking brake. Turn the engine off. 2. Turn the ignition to ON with the engine off. 3. If the low-tire pressure warning light is on, push the SET (reset) button for a few seconds. The low-tire warning light should go off. The reset button is on the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel. 4. Press and hold the SET (reset) button until the low-tire warning light comes on and ﬂashes on/off three times. The tire pressure warning reset button starts the reset (initialization) process. If the low-tire pressure warning light does not ﬂash when you hold the reset button the system may be malfunctioning and needs service. See your GM dealer for service. The system completes the reset (initialization) process after driving at vehicle speeds of at least 19 mph (30 km/h) to 62 mph (100 km/h) for more than one hour. Do not push the SET (reset) button while driving, if you do the initialization process will not be performed. The initialization process can take up to approximately one hour of driving under the following conditions: The vehicle speed is between 31 mph (50 km/h) and 62 mph (100 km/h). The roads are dry, smooth and straight. The number of passengers is one or two (including the driver). 5-61 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-67 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4 for scheduled rotation intervals. The low-tire pressure warning light may not come on even if the tire inﬂation pressure is low, or it may come on when the tire inﬂation pressure is set correctly under the following circumstances: (cid:127) A compact spare tire, snow tires, or tire chains are installed on your vehicle. The tires are over-inﬂated, or the tire inﬂation pressure suddenly drops due to a tire bursting or other causes. The vehicle is driven on a slippery road surface such as rough or frozen roads. The vehicle speed is less than 19 mph (30 km/h), and the driving duration is less than ﬁve minutes. The tires are made by a different manufacturer or differ in tread pattern than the original equipment tires. (cid:127) Rapid acceleration/deceleration or multiple consecutive sharp turns. Towing a trailer. The vehicle is loaded over the limit or not balanced properly. The initialization (reset) procedure was not performed correctly after replacing or rotating tires or wheels. The outside temperature is below 32°F (0°C) or above 104°F (40°C). 5-62 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70. Vehicles equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system will need to reset (initialize) the system after each tire rotation. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-60. 5-63 When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Tires should only be moved from front to rear and rear to front on the same side of the vehicle. Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures to the amounts shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-96. When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. (cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. 5-64 Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched speciﬁc tires for your vehicle. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires that are the same size, brand, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-53 for additional information. {CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-81. (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) {CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label. Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected. {CAUTION: If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM speciﬁc wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certiﬁed technician. See Buying New Tires on page 5-64 and Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for additional information. 5-65 Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum selection width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the Unites States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (11⁄2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction — AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. 5-66 Temperature — A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. 5-67 If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle. Used Replacement Wheels {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement. Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70 for more information. 5-68 Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. Tire Chains Notice: Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires for front-wheel-drive vehicles. If your vehicle has all-wheel-drive, install the tire chains on the front or all four tires but never on the rear tires only. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle. If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the ﬂat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ﬁrmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. {CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a ﬂat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a ﬂat tire. If a tire goes ﬂat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a ﬂat tire safely. 5-69 CAUTION: (Continued) 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart while the vehicle is raised. 4. Do not allow passengers to remain in the vehicle. To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle. Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes ﬂat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning ﬂashers. {CAUTION: Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put an automatic transaxle shift lever in PARK (P), or shift a manual transaxle to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R). CAUTION: (Continued) 5-70 When you have a ﬂat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks. Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jack, wheel wrench, jack handle and spare tire are stowed in the rear of the vehicle, underneath the ﬂoor of the cargo area. To remove the spare tire and tools do the following: 1. Turn the two lock knobs on the ﬂoor of the cargo area to UNLOCK. The following information will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. 5-71 4. Unscrew the center retaining nut and lift up the plastic tray to expose the compact spare tire. 5. Unscrew the center bolt from the compact spare tire and pull out the compact spare tire. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-81. 2. Lift up the cargo area ﬂoor panel, remove the hook attached to the bottom side of the panel and hook it over the weatherstripping. If you do not put the hook in the proper Notice: location, you could damage your vehicle. Always put the hook in the proper location in order to avoid damaging the vehicle. 3. Remove the jack from the tray on the right side of the compartment and the jack handle and wheel wrench from the top side of the compartment. 5-72 The tools you will be using include the jack (A), jack handle (B) and wheel wrench (C). Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. Attach the jack handle to the jack. 2. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the lift head a little. 3. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Do not remove them yet. 5-73 {CAUTION:

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2006 Pontiac VIBE Owners Manual