2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette Owners Manual

5-1 7

How to Reset the Change Engine Oil Message The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a change engine oil message being turned on, reset the system. 1. With the ignition key in RUN but the engine off, repeatedly push the tripheset button until OIL is displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC).

2. Once OIL is displayed, push and hold the tripheset button for five seconds. The number will disappear and be replaced by 100 (indicating 100% oil life remaining).

3. Turn the key to OFF. If the change engine oil message comes back on, the engine oil life monitor has not reset. Repeat the procedure.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

5-1 8

Engine Air CleanedFilter The engine air cleaner/filter is located at the front of the engine compartment, on the driver’s side of the vehicle, under the engine coolant reservoir. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 72 for more information on location. Checking or Replacing the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

3. Unlatch the two hooks on top of the engine air

cleaner/filter housing.

4. Remove and replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 5. Align the tabs located on the bottom of the

panel with the slots at the bottom of the housing.

6. Latch the hooks to secure the panel in place. If the panel moves easily, check that the tabs are seated correctly in the slots.

7. Put the duct back on and reinstall the clamps.

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

Notice: If the air cleanedfilter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleanedfilter in place when you’re driving.

5-1 9

1. Remove the two clamps on the duct. 2. Remove the duct.

Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. When doing frequent trailer towing. Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (1 66 000 km). See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.

5-20

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (1 0°C). If it's colder than 50°F (1 OOC), you may have to drive longer.

rhen, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.

The dipstick is located toward the back of the engine compartment, next to the brake master cylinder reservoir The dipstick has a bright, red loop design for easy identification. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 ior more information on iocation.

1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag

or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

5-2 1

1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

Notice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-Ill, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-Ill is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Pat? D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-16. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick.

5-22

Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL@ engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL@ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26. A 5060 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C).

0 Protect against rust and corrosion.

Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning messages and gages work as they should.

5-23

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

Adding on , plain wa * to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

Notice: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. Checking Coolant

The engine coolant reservoir is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, above the engine air cleanedfilter. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 for more information on location.

5-24

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be above the FULL COLD mark or a little higher. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radister Ere h3!.

Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-29.

5-25

Radiator Pressure Cap

Notice: Your radiator cap is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck. The radiator pressure cap is located at the front of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for more information on location. Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-47. You also have an engine coolant temperature warning message on your instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Message on page 3-53.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage will indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.

5-26

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

n a

rheated engine

Steam fr urn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

Notice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

5-27

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving - AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D) or THIRD (3).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-28

Cooling System

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Coolant Recovery Tank

An electric engine cooling far. -..-er the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

5-29

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

if there is a leak. If you run

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service.

The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

5-30

Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable waterand DEX-COOL@ engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. V n ~ l r e n ~ i n e mt1ld catch fire and YOU o r others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX COOL@ coolant.

5-31

Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

5-32

liquids ,.dm a hot cooli..,

Steam and scaldi,,, system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

5-33

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

Notice: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.

If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.)

5-34

You can -_ burned if you sc-.. coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don't spill coolant on a hot engine.

3. After the engine cools, open the coolant air bleed

valves. There are two bleed valves. One is located on the thermostat housing. The other is located OR the thermostat bypass tube.

4. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL@

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, ciose tne vaives aiier ine radiaior is iiiiea.

5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine

and the compartment.

5-35

6.

7.

Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up with the vent tube.

5-36

Power Steering Fluid

9. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the FULL

COLD mark.

10. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank.

The power steering fluid reservoir is located to the right of the windshield washer fluid reservoir, at the back of the engine compartment.

5-37

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 72 for reservoir location. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off , let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the H (hot) mark. When it’s cold, should be at the C (cold) mark. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-16. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

the level

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

. --

5-38

Brakes Brake Fluid

Noiice:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

in your

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compatfment Overview on --a - 5-12 fnr the Incatinn nf the resewnir~ r n3np

5-39

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

1. ,’- have too much brake f L J , it can spi.. an the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

5-40

BRAKE

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-44. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 16. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

\ h the wrong kind of fluid system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

in ur brake

Notice:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.

5-41

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-15. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

5-42

Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco@ battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco@ battery. See Engine Comparfment Overview on page 5-72 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3- IO 1.

5-43

Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely. On vehicles equipped with the optional power sliding door, a low-voltage battery or replacing a battery may cause the system to become inoperative. See Power Sliding Door (PSD) on paae 2-76for more information.

Batteries can .. -.rt you. The, :an because:

._ 5 d-.. .gerous

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

5-44

Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3.

Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio! Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminal locations on each vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose.

4.

The terminal is located under a tethered cap at the front of the underhood fuse block. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 for more information on location.

Squeeze the tabs and pull up on the cap to access the remote positive (+) terminal. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on your battery.

An electric fan can start up ever !hen the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

5-45

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco@ battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery of fluid has filler caps, be sure the right amount is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get your eyes or on your skin, water and get medical help immediately.

flush the place with

it in

--

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

5-46

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part, or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

5-47

9. Connect the other end

of the negative (-) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

5-48

P d

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its

original position.

5-49

How to Check Lubricant

All-Wheel Drive If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case (Power Transfer Unit) When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6- 14.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-16.

5-50

Carrier Assembly-Differential (Rear Drive Module) When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. A fluid loss could indicate a problem; check and have it repaired, if needed. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-16.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

5-51

Bulb Replacement For the type of bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-57. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs

Headlamps 1. Open the hood. 2. Remove the front turn signaVparking lamp

assembly. See Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps on page 5-54.

3. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle.

Ha.,Jen ,Jibs h, - e pressurized ga, .nside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

5-52

4. Unscrew the black retainer ring that holds the bulb

assembly in place.

5.

6.

:-+e. +Le -l--+";--l

7. Install the new bulb through the black retainer ring l-:-I-rL-.- I 191 lief I 11 ~t: uidbk a1 tu 11 i1u LI IC CitbLI ibal but 11 ~ t b t u ~ . retainer ring in place. Push the bulb firmly enough so that the blue tabs hook over the tab on the bulb.

.LL- i-l--l-

-n----rL-.r

8. Carefully put the bulb assembly back into the lamp housing. Be careful not to damage the bulb on the headlamp aiming bar.

5-53

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps 1. Open the hood.

9. Align the pins on the bottom of the headlamp assembly with the holes in the lamp support bracket.

10. To reinstall the front turn signaVparking lamp assembly. See Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps on page 5-54 next.

2. Remove the thumbscrew attaching the front turn signaVparking lamp assembly to the headlamp assembly.

5-54

3. Pull the front turn signaVparking lamp assembly

away from the vehicle.

Front Turn SignaVParking Lamp

Front Sidemarker Lamp

4.

5.

6.

Unscrew the bulb socket from the lamp assembly by pressing the tab while turning it counterclockwise. Replace the bulb by pulling the old one out and gently pushing the new one into the lamp socket. Line up the tabs on the socket with the gaps in the socket holes and screw the bulb socket back into the lamp housing until a click is heard (the tab popping back out).

5-55

Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps 1. Open the liftgate. 2. Remove the two screws from the taillamp housing

on the inboard side.

3. Pull off the entire taillamp housing.

The locator/retaining pins on the outboard side are part of the lamp assembly and will remain intact during removal.

7. To reinstall the lamp assembly, line up and insert

the tabs on the back of the assembly in the slots in the fender. Engage the lower clip on the back of the lamp assembly into the fender, keeping the upper tab on the front turn signaVparking lamp assembly inboard of the headlamp bracket tab.

8. To align the front turn SignaVparking lamp assembly

with the headlamp assembly, lift up the front turn signaVparking lamp assembly until the upper edge is contacting the fender.

9. Fasten the front turn signaVparking lamp assembly

to the headlamp assembly with the thumbscrew removed in Step 2.

5-56

4. Remove the bulb holder by pressing the four

retaining tabs and pulling the holder away from the assembly.

Replacement Bulbs For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer. I Back-ur, Lamps I Front Sidemarker Lamps Front Turn SignaVParking Lamps Headlamps

I Bulb Number

4157 NAK 9004-HBI

(3rd from Tor,)

31 56 194

Lamp

I Turn Signal Lamps

(2nd from Top)

3156

A. Taillamp Bulb 6. Back-up Lamp Bulb

C. Turn Signal Lamp Bulb

D. StopTTailIamp Bulb 5. Replace the bulb by pulling the old bulb out and gently pushing the new bulb into the bulb holder socket.

6. Snap the bulb holder back into place, making sure all retaining tabs are properly over the bulb holder tabs.

7. Reinstall the taillamp assembly by inserting the outboard locatingh-etaining pins until the lamp is seated. Secure with the inboard screws.

5-57

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check in At Least Twice a Year on page 6-10 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5- 105.

To remove the windshield wiper blade(s):

1. Turn the wipers on to the lowest intermittent setting. 2. Turn the ignition to OFF while the wipers are at

the outer position of the wipe pattern.

3. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the

windshield or backglass.

4. While holding the

wiper arm away from the glass, push the release clip from under the blade.

5-58

5. Push the release clip at the connecting point of the blade and the arm up. Then pull the blade assembly down toward the glass to remove it from the wiper arm.

6. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm

until you hear the release clip “click” into place.

7. Push the release clip, from Step 4, down to secure

the wiper blade into place.

5-59

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Oldsmobile Warranty booklet for details.

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION:

(Continued]

0 Underinflated tires pose the same danger

as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact - such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

5-60

Inflation - Tire Pressure The Certificationflire label, which is on the rear edge ot the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear e Bad handling

Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

T L - . L-1.- I I I C Y

I I C I ~ PI G V C I 11 IcaRa u y nt;cpI ~y uut UII c ar IU

L . . I<--.-:.-- ^..I A:.A

L l - - l , -

...-A

. - Y ^ . . ^ Y

moisture.

5-6 1

Tire Inspection and Rotation

Tires should be rotated every 7,500 miles (12 500 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-63 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-66 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire, If it moves, use the folding wrench to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services,” in Section 6, for scheduled rotation intervals.

I,‘ \ /I

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation.

5-62

After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certification/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5- 103.

-3ust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:

You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

__ can’t be repaired well because of the size or

location of the damage.

5-63

Buying New Tires

To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certificationflire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Petformance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

5-64

Mixing tires coul-. Lause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the index.

If you use bias-ply 1 1s on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety It=~Ullt=lllelltb allu ~ U U I ~ I U I I Q I U C I I C I ~ ~ ill^+-”, T:”- lvlulula I I I G Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

-A-l:*:---l

- . - A

fi,,,,,I

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 5 ) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - AA, A, 9, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, wrrlerir~ly, ilydlupih1Gl^ly, w r pea“ t I d w u I I cII la1 c ~ w z ; I 1 a L 1 t - a .

-A: - .- -L.

._ - - 1 . A..-

-+--:-+:--

5-65

Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

5-66

If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the

Used Replacement WI els

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70 for more information.

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

to replace a

Tire Chains Notice: Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s !-- - I - ~ - - - I ’ - ~- - If . I~IS1ruC;LIVIIs. II yuu u a l ~ Ileal ~ l l e Glla~llb G U I I L Q ~ L I I ~ ~ your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

IL- -L - . - -

--.-*-.-a:--.

5-67

Accessory Inflator

Your vehicle may have an air inflator. With it, you can inflate things like air mattresses and basketballs, and you can also use it to bring your tires up to the proper pressure. The air inflator is located in the rear compartment on the driver’s side. To remove the cover, pull the tab on the cover and pull it off.

This is the switch for the air inflator.

There may be an air inflator kit stored in the glove box. It includes a 20-foot (6 m) hose with an air pressure gage and nozzle adapters.

5-68

ting something too much can make it

....___

explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate any object only to its recommended pressure.

To use your air inflator system, do the following:

1. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY or RUN. 2. Attach the appropriate nozzle adapter, if required, to the end of the hose that has the pressure gage. 3. Attach that end of the hose to the object you wish

to inflate.

4. Remove the protective cap covering the outlet. 5. Attach the other end of the hose to the outlet. 6. Press the accessory inflator switch. The light in the switch will come on to show the system is working.

If the air inflator system does not turn on or the light does not come on, the fuse may be blown or installed incorrectly. See Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-96 or see your dealer for service.

Your air inflator will automatically shut off after about 10 minutes. The light in the switch will blink. After about one minute you can use the system again. Press the inflator switch and the indicator light will come on. Notice: Don’t run your air inflator for longer 30 minutes at one time. If you do, you may damage the system. After running the air inflator for 30 minutes, wait at least 10 minutes before restarting the air inflator. To turn off the inflator, do the following:

than

1. Press the switch and detach the hose, first from the

inflated object, then from the outlet.

2. Put the protective cap back on. 3. Place the inflator kit tools in the pouch, and store in

the glove box.

To put the cover back on, line up the tabs at the back of the cover and put it in place. Push down the tab to secure the cover.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout”, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop - well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-69

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard v.--nin- 'lashers.

a tire can cause an injury. The

Chan,,,lg vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won't move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

5-70

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

To remove the tools, do the following:

1. Remove the side convenience net. 2. Open the jack storage compartment by lifting up the

tab and pulling the cover off.

A. Jack 9. Strap C. Bracket D. Wing Nut 3. Remove the jack and jacking tools by loosening

E. Jacking Instructions F. Bag and Tools G. Tire Bag and Cable

(AWD only)

the wing nut and bracket.

4. Separate the plastic pouch from the jack and remove the jacking tools (folding wrench and extension) from the pouch.

5-71

C

The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A), extension (B) and folding wrench (C). The compact spare tire is located under the rear of the vehicle. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section for more information about the compact spare.

To remove the compact spare tire, do the following:

- C

E. Extension

(Chisel End)

A. Hoist Shaft B. Hoist Assembly C. Retainer D. Compact Spare Tire I. Attach the folding wrench to the extension and insert the chisel end on an angle through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft.

F. Folding Wrench

5-72

2. Turn the folding wrench counterclockwise to lower the compact spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wrench so the compact spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.

-. If your vehicle is an all-wheel-drive vehicle, after removing the compact spare tire turn the wrench clockwise to raise the cable back up. On an AWD vehicle, you can not store a full-size tire under the vehicle. It should be stowed inside the vehicle by the cable provided. See “Storing the Flat Tire on an All-Wheel-Drive Vehicle” later in this section. If you have a front-wheel-drive vehicle, the hoist is used to store a full-size or a flat road tire under the vehicle. See “Storing the Spare Tire and Tools” and “Storing the Flat Tire on a Front-Wheel-Drive Vehicle” later in this section.

If the compact spare tire will not lower, check under the vehicle to see if the tire is hanging loose and the cable end and spring under the wheel plate are missing. If so, the secondary latch system is engaged. See “Secondary Latch System” later in this section. To continue changing the flat tire see “Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire” later in this section.

5-73

3. To remove the compact spare tire from the cable, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening.

Secondary Latch System Your vehicle may have an underbody mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It‘s designed to stop a tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire must be stowed with the valve stem pointing down. Front-wheel-drive vehicles use the underbody tire hoist assembly to store either the compact spare or a flat road tire. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” in the Index for instructions on storing the spare or flat tire correctly. If your vehicle is equipped with all-wheel-drive, the underbody tire hoist assembly stores only the compact spare tire. See “Storing the Spare Tire and Tools” later in this section for instructions. To store a flat full-size tire correctly, see “Storing the Flat Tire on an All-Wheel-Drive Vehicle” later in this section.

Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed below.

To release the spare tire from the secondary latch, do the f .. )wing:

Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from the spare.

5-74

1. Place the jack under the vehicle, ahead of the rear

bumper. Position the center lift point of the jack under the center of the compact spare tire.

2. Turn the folding wrench clockwise to raise the jack

until it lifts the secondary latch device under the wheel plate.

3. Keep raising tne jack untii rne compact spare tire stops moving upward and is held firmly in place, this lets you know that the secondary latch has released.

5. Grasp the compact spare tire with both hands and

pull it out from under the vehicle.

6. Reach under the vehicle and remove the folding

wrench and jack.

Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or flat tire usinG the hoist assembly until it has been repaired or replaced.

~-

4. Lower the jack by turning the folding wrench

counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the compact spare tire is resting on the folding wrench.

-~

5-75

Removing the Wheel Covers If the wheel has a center cap, use the handle of the folding wrench to pry it off. Then, with the other end of the folding wrench, loosen the nuts.

If your vehicle has the plastic “bolt-on” wheel covers, loosen the bolts completely using the folding wrench, and remove the wheel cover.

5-76

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

1. Loosen the wheel nuts - but do not remove them - using the folding wrench. (Turn the handle about 180 degrees, then flip the handle back to the starting position. This avoids taking the wrench off the lug nut for each turn.)

For wheels with a wheel lock key, use the wheel lock key between the lock nut and folding wrench. The key is supplied in the front passenger door pocket.

Notice: To help avoid damage to lock nut or wheel lock key, do not use an impact wrench with this key.

2. Near each wheel, there is a notch in the vehicle's body. Position the jack and raise the jack head until it fits firmly into the notch in the vehicle's frame nearest the flat tire.

Do not raise the vehicle yet. Put the compact spare tire near you.

Getting under a vehicle when dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

it is jacked up is

Notice: Do not place the jack under the rear axle control arms or you may damage your vehicle. Only use the areas shown for proper jack location.

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the befcre iaek l i e )'""' raising the vehicle.

...- - thn

-..- pmper h

..--- intn

...- hnad

5-77

3. Attach the folding wrench to the jack, and turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack head a few inches.

6. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

4. Raise the vehicle by turning the folding wrench

clockwise in the jack. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit under the wheel well.

5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

5-78

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

I

Nev,. use oil or grease on st,,s do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

or nuts. If you

7. Install the compact spare tire and put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

8. Lower the vehicle by attaching the folding wheel

wrench to the jack and turning the wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

5-79

9. Tighten the wheel nuts

firmly in a crisscross sequence, as shown.

Nofice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the index for the wheel nut torque specification.

10. Don’t try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare

tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover securely in the rear of the vehicle until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

Notice: Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See ”Capacities and Specifications” in the Index for wheel nut torque specification.

5-80

Storing a Fla' or Spare 'ire : d Tools

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

The underbody-mounted spaL, tire needs to be stored with the valve stem pointing down. If the spare tire is stored with the valve stem pointing upwards, its secondary latch won't work properly and the spare tire could loosen and suddenly fall from your vehicle. If this happened when your vehicle was being driven, the tire might contact a person or another vehicle, causing injury and, of course, damage to itself as well. Be sure the underbody-mounted spare tire is stored with its valve stem pointing down.

5-8 1

Storing the Spare Tire and Tools 1. Lay the tire near the rear of the vehicle with the

valve stem down.

2. If the vehicle has aluminum wheels, remove the small center cap by tapping the back of the cap with the extension of the shaft.

3. Slide the cable retainer through the center of the

wheel and start to raise the tire. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.

4. When the tire is almost in the stored position, turn the tire so the valve is towards the rear of the vehicle. This will help when you check and maintain tire pressure in the spare.

5. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the

vehicle. Continue turning the folding wrench until you feel more than two clicks. This indicates that the compact spare tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist cannot be overtightened.

5-82

PUSH & PULL

6. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull,

and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the folding wrench to tighten the cable. Put back all tools as they were stored in the jack storage compartment and put the compartment cover back on.

To put the cover back on, line up the tabs on the right of the cover with the slots in the cover opening. Push the cover in place and push down the tab so that it rests in the groove. This secures the cover in place.

Store the center cap or the plastic “bolt-on” wheel covers until a full size tire is put back on the vehicle. When you replace the compact spare with a full-size tire, reinstall the bolt-on wheel covers or the center cap. Tighten them “hand tight” over the wheel nuts, using the folding wrench. Storing the Flat Tire on a Front-Wheel Drive Vehicle Follow the procedure for storing a spare tire listed previously.

A. Strap 9. Bag and Tools C. Jack

5-83

Storing the Flat Tire on an All-Wheel-Drive Vehicle 1 . Remove the tire storage bag and cable package

from the jack storage area.

2. If the vehicle has aluminum wheels, remove the small center cap by tapping the back of the cap with the extension of the shaft.

3. Put the flat tire in the tire storage bag and place il

in the rear storage area with the valve stem pointing toward the front of the vehicle.

5-84

A. Cable B. Liftgate Hinges C. Door Striker

4. Pull the cable through the door striker and the

center of the wheel.

5. Hook the cable onto the outside portion of the liftgate hinges.

7. Make sure the metal

tube is centered at the striker. Push the tube towards the front of the vehicle.

6. Pull on the cable to make sure it is secure.

8. Close the liftgate and make sure that it is latched.

5-85

Compact Spare Tire

Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again. Notice: When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles.

And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare. All-Wheel Drive After installing a compact spare tire on a vehicle with all-wheel drive you will need to drive with light to moderate acceleration, for 10 seconds, in a straight line. This action will allow the vehicle to detect the compact spare tire and disable the all-wheel drive system. The AWD DISABLE message will come on indicating that the all-wheel drive system is off. You may detect a slight pull during this time, but this is normal. Notice: You may damage your vehicle’s all-wheel drive system if your vehicle period with a compact spare tire installed and the all-wheel drive system in operation. See “All-Wheel Drive System’’ and “AWD Disable Warning Message’’ in the Index for more information.

is driven for an extended

5-86

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:

Gasoline Benzene Naphtha Carbon Tetrachloride Acetone Paint Thinner Turpentine Lacquer Thinner Nail Polish Remover

They can all be hazardous - some more than others - and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: 0 Alcohol

Laundry Soap Bleach Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. FabridCarpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-93.

5-87

Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine,

treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry completely. 3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

Here are some cleaning tips: 0 Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.

Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set. Carefully scrape off any excess stain.

* Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean

area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.