2002 Oldsmobile Aurora Owners Manual

“Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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To check or replace the air filter, do the following: 1. With the hood open, unlatch and remove the

access panel.

2. To remove the filter, press on the spring tab on

the side of the filter housing and pull the filter out of the housing.

3. To install the new filter, press on the spring tab and insert the filter into the housing. The filter should be fully inserted into the upper and lower grooves and locked into place by the spring tab.

4. Reinstall the air filter access panel at the base of

the windshield.

Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to drive longer.

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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: If your vehicle has the 3.5 L V6 engine, the automatic transaxle fluid dipstick is located in the rear of the engine compartment toward the driver’s side of the vehicle. If your vehicle has the 4.0 L V8 engine, it is located near the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3.5L V6 Engine

4.0L V8 Engine

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Checking Coolant

The engine coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the cold level mark.

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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

If the LOW ENGINE COOLANT DIC message comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure the arrow lines up with the tube.

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Cooling System Pressure Cap The cooling system pressure cap is located on the surge tank.

NOTICE:

Your cooling system pressure cap is a 18 psi (124 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating.

Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is near the center of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.

What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location.

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Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

NOTICE:

D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.

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So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. A chime will sound if you try to drive with this warning light on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

NOTICE:

D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

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Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery.

WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. The battery is located under the rear seat cushion. To access the battery, see “Removing the Rear Seat Cushion” in the Index. You don’t need to access the battery to jump start your vehicle. See “Jump Starting” in the Index.

CAUTION:

A battery that isn’t properly vented can let sulfuric acid fumes into the area under the rear seat cushion. These fumes can damage your rear seat safety belt systems. You may not be able to see this damage, and the safety belts might not provide the protection needed in a crash. If a replacement battery is ever needed, it must be vented in the same manner as the original battery. Always make sure that the vent hose is properly reattached before reinstalling the seat cushion.

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Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

To be sure the vent hose (A) is properly attached, the vent hose connectors (B) must be securely reattached to the vent outlets (C) on each side of the battery, and the vent assembly grommet (D) must be secured to the floor pan (E).

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Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs

CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Headlamps

1. Remove the two bolts from the headlamp assembly. 2. Use a large screwdriver by the outside mount to

separate the lamp assembly from the outboard snap mounting pin. Slide the headlamp assembly outward and lift it out.

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3. Disconnect the wiring harness from the

headlamp assembly.

4. Lift the tabs to remove the bulb from the assembly. 5. Replace the bulb. 6. Push the bulb assembly in and turn it

clockwise to install the bulb assembly into the headlamp assembly.

7. Then reconnect the wiring harness to the

lamp assembly.

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8. Slide the lamp assembly back into place by lining

up the track on the bottom of the assembly with the guide on the vehicle.

9. Then connect the outboard snap mounting pin. 10. Secure the lamp assembly with the two bolts.

Headlamp Aiming

Your vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system equipped with horizontal aim indicators. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales. If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low beam may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your dealer for service. However, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure.

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NOTICE:

To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.

The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: D The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps

are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other flat surface.

D The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly

level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other flat surface.

D The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to

the wall or other flat surface.

D The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud

attached to it.

D The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.

D The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full

tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs. (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.

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D Tires should be properly inflated. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle low beam lamps. The high beam lamps will be correctly aimed if the low beam lamps are aimed properly. The headlamp aiming devices are under the hood near the headlamps.

If you believe your headlamps need horizontal (left/right) adjustment, follow the horizontal aiming procedure. If you believe your headlamps need only vertical (up/down) adjustment, follow only the vertical aiming procedure. Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 TorxR socket or T15 Torx screwdriver.

Headlamp Horizontal Aiming Turn the horizontal aiming screw (A) until the indicator (B) is lined up with zero.

Headlamp Vertical Aiming

NOTICE:

Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim.

Horizontal aiming must be performed before making any adjustments to the vertical aim. Adjusting the vertical aim first will result in an incorrect headlamp aim.

1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low beam lamps.

2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on each lamp; if left low beam, subtract two inches. Record this distance.

3. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from the

ground upward the recorded distance from step 2 and draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle.

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NOTICE:

Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp.

4. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the flat surface.

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5. Turn the vertical aiming screw (C) until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line.

The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line.

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the opposite headlamp. Front Turn Signals and Parking Lamps Once the headlamp assembly has been removed from the vehicle, the front turn signal and parking lamps can be accessed. See “Headlamps” in the Index for more information on location.

1. Tip the headlamp assembly and while pressing the

release, turn the bulb and socket counterclockwise to remove them.

2. Replace the bulb in the socket. 3. Then reconnect the socket wiring harness to the

lamp assembly.

4. Reinstall the headlamp assembly into the vehicle.

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Rear Turn Signals, Stoplamps, Taillamps and Back-up Lamps 1. Open the trunk. 2. Turn the screws located inside of the trunk

counterclockwise and remove them.

3. Remove the plastic trim piece from the trunk. 4. Pull the carpeting away from the rear corner of

the trunk.

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5. Remove the three nuts holding the lamp in place and

remove the lamp assembly.

6. While pressing the release, turn the bulb socket

assembly counterclockwise to remove it from the lamp assembly.

7. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from

the socket.

8. Replace the bulb and reverse the steps to reinstall the

lamp assembly.

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in the Index for more information. To replace the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm up from the windshield and set it

in the vertically locked position.

2. Push the tab on the wiper blade assembly and

pull the assembly down enough to release it from the “U” hooked end of the wiper arm. Slide the assembly away from the arm.

3. Remove the blade. 4. To reinstall the wiper blade assembly, slide it over the wiper arm to engage the “U” hooked end on the wiper blade assembly. Pull up on the assembly to lock it into place.

For the proper windshield wiper blade assembly replacement length and type, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Oldsmobile Warranty booklet for details.

CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as

overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

D Overinflated tires are more likely to be

cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your

tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy

NOTICE: (Continued)

NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Check Tire Pressure System The check tire pressure system can alert you to a large change in the pressure of one tire. The system won’t alert you before you drive that a tire is low or flat. You must begin driving before the system will work properly. The LOW TIRE PRESSURE message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if pressure difference (low pressure) is detected in one tire. The check tire pressure system may not alert you if: D more than one tire is low, D the vehicle is moving faster than 65 mph (105 km/h), D the system is not yet calibrated, D the tire treadwear is uneven, D the compact spare tire is installed, D tire chains are being used, or D the vehicle is being driven on a rough or frozen road.

If the anti-lock brake system warning light comes on, the check tire pressure system may not be working properly. See your dealer for service. Also, see “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index. The check tire pressure system detects differences in tire rotation speeds that are caused by changes in tire pressure. The system can alert you about a low tire -- but it doesn’t replace normal tire maintenance. See “Tires” in the Index. When the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message appears on the Driver Information Center, you should stop as soon as you can and check all your tires for damage. If a tire is flat, see “If a Tire Goes Flat” in the Index. Also check the tire pressure in all four tires as soon as you can. See “Inflation-Tire Pressure” in the Index. Any time you adjust a tire’s pressure or have one or more tires repaired or replaced, you’ll need to reset (calibrate) the check tire pressure system. You’ll also need to reset the system whenever you rotate the tires, buy new tires and install or remove the compact spare.

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Don’t reset the check tire pressure system without first correcting the cause of the problem and checking and adjusting the pressure in all four tires. If you reset the system when the tire pressures are incorrect, the check tire pressure system will not work properly and may not alert you when a tire is low or high. To reset (calibrate) the system: 1. Turn the ignition switch to ON. 2. Press the SELECT right arrow on the DIC until

you enter the GAGE mode. Then press the SELECT down arrow until TIRE PRESSURE appears on the display.

3. Press and hold the DIC RESET button for about five

seconds. After five seconds, the display will show TIRE PRESSURE RESET. If TIRE PRESSURE RESET does not appear on the display after about five seconds, see your dealer for service. After you release the DIC RESET button, TIRE PRESSURE NORMAL will appear on the display.

The system completes the calibration process during driving. Calibration time can take 45 to 90 minutes, depending on your driving habits. After the system has been calibrated, the system will alert the driver that a tire is low, up to a maximum speed of 65 mph (105 km/h).

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.

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Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Reset the Check Tire Pressure System. See “Check Tire Pressure System” in the Index. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

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When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

D You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep

enough to show cord or fabric.

D The tire has a bump, bulge or split. D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare, though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.

CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example:

Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.

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Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

Used Replacement Wheels

CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

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Tire Chains

CAUTION:

If your vehicle has P235/55R17 size tires, don’t use tire chains, there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.

NOTICE:

If your vehicle has a tire size other than P235/55R17 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

6-57

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: D Gasoline D Benzene D Naphtha D Carbon Tetrachloride D Acetone D Paint Thinner D Turpentine D Lacquer Thinner D Nail Polish Remover

They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too. Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: D Alcohol D Laundry Soap D Bleach D Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.

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Here are some cleaning tips: D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. D Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. D Carefully scrape off any excess stain. D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.

D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the

entire area immediately or it will set.

Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section.

Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.

3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate

the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge

to remove any excess cleaner.

6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened

towel or cloth.

7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.

Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to

dry completely.

3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

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Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Cleaning Wood Panels Use a clean cloth moistened in warm, soapy water (use mild dish washing soap). Dry the wood immediately with a clean cloth.

Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.

You may have to do it more than once.

D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if

you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your

dealer for this product.

D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

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Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.

6-61

Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

6-62

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.

NOTICE:

Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.

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Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Use chrome polish only on chrome-plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.

Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.

NOTICE:

When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires.

Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.

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Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection.

At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you. Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, Oldsmobile will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

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GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

6-66

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.

Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts. Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the underside of the spare tire cover. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is: D your VIN, D the model designation, D paint information and D a list of all production options and

special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.

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Electrical System Add-On Electrical Equipment

NOTICE:

Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.

Headlamp Wiring The headlamp wiring is protected by a circuit breaker in the wiring harness. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to go on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlamp system checked right away. Windshield Wiper Fuses The windshield wiper motor is protected by an internal circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem, have it fixed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers in the fuse panel protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed.

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Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses and circuit breakers. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If a MaxiFuseR should blow, see your dealer for service immediately. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can “borrow” one that has the same amperage. Pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without -- like the radio or cigarette lighter -- and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can. You will find a fuse puller clipped in both of the fuse blocks. Snap the wide end of the fuse puller at the side indentations and pull the fuse out. The MaxiFuses are located in two fuse blocks, one located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side and the other under the rear seat on the driver’s side. If a MaxiFuse should blow, have your vehicle serviced by your dealer immediately.

Engine Compartment Fuse Block

The engine compartment fuse block is located near the front on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

Lift the cover to gain access. Fuse 22 or 23 can be moved to the outer position to provide continuous power to the accessory power outlet or cigarette lighter when the ignition is not on. See your dealer for additional assistance, if needed. Leaving an accessory on for a long period of time can drain the vehicle’s battery.

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Minifuse

10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19

20
21
22
23
24

25
26

Usage Right High-Beam Headlamp Left High-Beam Headlamp Ignition 1
Not Used Transaxle Cruise Control Direct Ignition System Injector Bank #2
Not Used Not Used Powertrain Control Module Ignition Oxygen Sensor Injector Bank #1
Auxiliary Power Cigarette Lighter Fog Lamps/Daytime Running Lamps Horn Air Conditioner Clutch

Minifuse

Usage Not Used Accessory Windshield Wipers Not Used Left Low-Beam Headlamp Right Low-Beam Headlamp Spare Powertrain Control Module Battery

6-70

Micro Relays

27
28
29
30
31
32
33

Mini Relays

34
35
36
37
38
39
40

Usage High-Beam Headlamp Low-Beam Headlamp Fog Lamps Daytime Running Lamps Horn Air Conditioner Clutch HVAC Solenoid

Usage Accessory Air Pump Starter 1
Cooling Fan 2
Ignition 1
Cooling Fan Series/Parallel Cooling Fan 1

Maxibreaker

41

Usage Starter

MaxiFuses

42
43
44
45
46
47

Spare Fuses

48
49
50
51
52
53

Usage Not Used Empty ABS Air Pump A Cooling Fan 2
Cooling Fan 1

Usage Spare Spare Spare Spare Spare Fuse Puller

6-71

Removing the Rear Seat Cushion To access the battery and rear compartment fuse panels, the rear seat cushion must be removed. This procedure is somewhat difficult. You may wish to have your dealer do this for you.

To remove the rear seat cushion, do the following: 1. Pull up on the front of the cushion to release the

front hooks.

2. Pull the cushion up and out toward the front of

the vehicle.

NOTICE:

The battery and main fuse blocks are located under the rear seat cushion. The battery’s ground terminal and some relay wires are exposed. To help avoid damage to the battery and wires, be careful when removing or reinstalling the seat cushion. Do not remove covers from covered parts. Do not store anything under the seat, as objects could touch exposed wires and cause a short.

CAUTION:

A safety belt that isn’t properly routed through the seat cushion or is twisted won’t provide the protection needed in a crash. If the safety belt hasn’t been routed through the seat cushion at all, it won’t be there to work for the next passenger. The person sitting in that position could be badly injured. After reinstalling the seat cushion, always check to be sure that the safety belts are properly routed and are not twisted.

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To reinstall the rear seat cushion, do the following: 1. Buckle the center passenger position safety belt, and then route the safety belts through the proper slots in the seat cushion. Don’t let the safety belt get twisted.

2. Slide the rear of the cushion up and under the

seatback so the rear locating guides hook into the wire loops on the back frame.

3. With the seat cushion lowered, push rearward and

then press down on the seat cushion until the spring locks on both ends engage.

4. Check to make sure the safety belts are properly

routed and that no portion of any safety belt is trapped under the seat. Also make sure the seat cushion is secured.

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Rear Underseat Fuse Block

The rear fuse block is located beneath the rear seat on the driver’s side. The rear seat cushion must be removed to access the fuse block. See “Removing the Rear Seat Cushion” earlier in this section.

Minifuses

Usage Fuel Pump HVAC Blower Memory ALDL Rear Fog Lamps Compact Disc (CD) Driver’s Door Module Air Bag System Not Used

6-74

Minifuses

10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29

Usage Right Parking Lamp Vent Solenoid Ignition 1
Left Parking Lamp Dimmer Not Used Left Front Heated Seat Not Used Rear Door Module Stoplamp Park/Reverse Audio Retained Accessory Power (RAP) Not Used Not Used Passenger Door Module Body Interior Lamps Not Used Ignition Switch

Minifuses

30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38

Micro Relays

39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46

Usage Instrument Panel Right Front Heated Seat Not Used HVAC Ignition 3 Rear Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Turn Signal/Hazard HVAC Battery Dimmer

Usage Fuel Pump Parking Lamp Ignition 1
Rear Fog Lamp Not Used Park Reverse Retained Accessory Power (RAP)

6-75

Micro Relays

47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55

Usage Fuel Tank Door Lock Not Used Ignition 3
Fuel Tank Door Release Interior Lamps Trunk Release Front Courtesy Lamps Not Used Electronic Level Control (ELC)

Circuit Breakers

Usage

56
57

Mini Relays

58
59

Power Seats Power Windows

Usage Cigar Rear Defogger

6-76

MaxiFuses

60
61
62
63
64
65
66

Spare Fuses

67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75

Usage Not Used Rear Defog Not Used Audio Amplifier Electronic Level Control (ELC) Cigar Not Used

Usage Not Used Not Used Not Used Spare Spare Spare Spare Spare Fuse Puller

Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamps Front

Bulb

Halogen Headlamps Low Beam High Beam Front Turn Signal Lamps

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9006
9005
3157NA

Rear

Back-Up Lamps Stop/Taillamps Rear Turn Signal Lamps

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3155
3057
3057

For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer.

Capacities and Specifications The following approximate capacities are given in English and metric conversions. Please refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for more information. Engine Code (LX5) 3.5L V6
Automatic Transaxle Engine Cooling System Engine Oil with Filter Fuel Tank

7.4 quarts (7.0 L) 10.0 quarts (9.5 L) 5.5 quarts (5.2 L) 18.5 U.S. gallons (70.0 L)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine Code (L47) 4.0L V8
Automatic Transaxle Engine Cooling System Engine Oil with Filter Fuel Tank

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11.0 quarts (10.4 L) 13.0 quarts (12.3 L) 7.0 quarts (6.6 L) 17.5 U.S. gallons (66.2 L)

All capacities are approximate. When adding, be sure to fill to the appropriate level as recommended in this manual. Wheel Nut Torque 100 lb-ft (140 N·m)

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Air Conditioning Refrigerant Capacity If you do your own service work, you’ll need the proper service manual. See “Doing Your Own Service Work” in the Index for additional information. It is recommended that service work on your air conditioning system be performed by a qualified technician. Air Conditioning

Refrigerant R-134a

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.2 lbs. (1.0 kg)

Use Refrigerant Oil, R-134a Systems

Engine Specifications The following engine specifications are for the (LX5) 3.5L V6. VIN Engine Code Type Displacement Firing Order

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

V6
212 cubic inches (3.5L) 1-2-3-4-5-6

The following engine specifications are for the (L47) 4.0L V8. VIN Engine Code Type Displacement Firing Order

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

V8
244 cubic inches (4.0L) 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8

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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A-1096C*

Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts The following replacement parts are for the (LX5) 3.5L V6. Air Cleaner Element Passenger Compartment

Air Filter

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine Oil Filter Fuel Filter Spark Plugs

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

GM Part # 25654414
PF-2129* GF-627* PTR5C-13* (GM Part # 12556183) Gap: 0.050 inch (1.27 mm)

Windshield Wiper Blades

Type Length

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Shepherd’s Hook 22.0 inches (56.0 cm)

*ACDelcoR part number.

The following replacement parts are for the (L47) 4.0L V8. Air Cleaner Element Passenger Compartment

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Air Filter

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine Oil Filter Fuel Filter Spark Plugs

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

GM Part # 25654414
PF-58* GF-627* PT16EPR-C13* (GM Part # 12561466) Gap: 0.050 inch (1.27 mm)

A-1096C*

Windshield Wiper Blades

Type Length

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Shepherd’s Hook 22.0 inches (56.0 cm)

*ACDelcoR part number.

6-79

Section 7 Maintenance Schedule

This section covers the maintenance required for your vehicle. Your vehicle needs these services to retain its safety, dependability and emission control performance.

7-2
7-4
7-5
7-16

Introduction Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services Scheduled Maintenance Part B: Owner Checks and Services

7-20
7-22
7-24

Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants Part E: Maintenance Record

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Introduction Your Vehicle and the Environment Proper vehicle maintenance not only helps to keep your vehicle in good working condition, but also helps the environment. All recommended maintenance procedures are important. Improper vehicle maintenance can even affect the quality of the air we breathe. Improper fluid levels or the wrong tire inflation can increase the level of emissions from your vehicle. To help protect our environment, and to keep your vehicle in good condition, please maintain your vehicle properly. Maintenance Requirements Maintenance intervals, checks, inspections and recommended fluids and lubricants as prescribed in this manual are necessary to keep your vehicle in good working condition. Any damage caused by failure to follow recommended maintenance may not be covered by warranty.

Have you purchased the GM Protection Plan? The Plan supplements your new vehicle warranties. See your Warranty and Owner Assistance booklet or your dealer for details.

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“Part B: Owner Checks and Services” tells you what should be checked and when. It also explains what you can easily do to help keep your vehicle in good condition. “Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections” explains important inspections that your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center should perform. “Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” lists some recommended products necessary to help keep your vehicle properly maintained. These products, or their equivalents, should be used whether you do the work yourself or have it done. “Part E: Maintenance Record” is a place for you to record and keep track of the maintenance performed on your vehicle. Keep your maintenance receipts. They may be needed to qualify your vehicle for warranty repairs.

How This Section is Organized This maintenance schedule is divided into five parts: “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services” explains what to have done and how often. Some of these services can be complex, so unless you are technically qualified and have the necessary equipment, you should let your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center do these jobs.

CAUTION:

Performing maintenance work on a vehicle can be dangerous. In trying to do some jobs, you can be seriously injured. Do your own maintenance work only if you have the required know-how and the proper tools and equipment for the job. If you have any doubt, have a qualified technician do the work.

If you want to get the service information, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.

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Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services Using Your Maintenance Schedule We at General Motors want to help you keep your vehicle in good working condition. But we don’t know exactly how you’ll drive it. You may drive very short distances only a few times a week. Or you may drive long distances all the time in very hot, dusty weather. You may use your vehicle in making deliveries. Or you may drive it to work, to do errands or in many other ways. Because of all the different ways people use their vehicles, maintenance needs vary. You may need more frequent checks and replacements. So please read the following and note how you drive. If you have any questions on how to keep your vehicle in good condition, see your dealer.

This part tells you the maintenance services you should have done and when you should schedule them. If you go to your dealer for your service needs, you’ll know that GM-trained and supported service people will perform the work using genuine GM parts. The proper fluids and lubricants to use are listed in Part D. Make sure whoever services your vehicle uses these. All parts should be replaced and all necessary repairs done before you or anyone else drives the vehicle. This schedule is for vehicles that: