1992 Honda Prelude Owners Manual

Tires Check the inflation and condition of your car's tires at least once a month. Inflation Check the pressure in the tires when they are cold. This means the car has been parked for at least three hours. If you have to drive the car before checking the tire pressure, the tires can still be considered "cold" if you drive less than one mile.

If you check the pressure when the tires are hot (the car has been driven several miles), you will see readings 28 to 41 kPa (0.3 to 0.4
kg/cm2, 4 to 6 psi) higher than the cold reading. This is normal. Do not let air out to match the specified cold pressure. The tire will be underinflated.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstThe correct cold tire pressures are: (US: S, Canada: S)

205 kPa (2.1 kg/cm2, 30 psi) (US: Si, Si 4WS, Canada: SR, SR 4WS)

220 kPa (2.2 kg/cm2, 32 psi)

Compact spare:

415 kPa(4.15 kg/cm2, 60 psi)

TIRE INFORMATION LABEL

These pressures are also given on the tire information label on the driver's door jamb. Remember to check the pressure in the spare tire at the same time.

Tires

You should get your own tire pressure gauge and use it at all times. That makes it easier for you to tell if a pressure loss is caused by a tire problem and not a variation between gauges.

Keeping the tires properly inflated provides you with the best combi- nation of riding comfort, handling and tread life. Underinflated tires wear unevenly, reduce you car's handling, and are more likely to fail because of higher temperatures. Overinflated tires make your car ride more harshly, are more prone to damage from road hazards, and wear unevenly.

Inspection Every time you check inflation, you should also examine the tires for damage, foreign objects, and wear.

You should look for:

Bumps or bulges in the tread or side of the tire. Replace the tire if you find either of these condi- tions.

Cuts, splits, or cracks in the side of the tire. Replace the tire if you can see fabric or cord.

Excessive tread wear.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstTires

INDICATOR LOCATION MARKS

TREAD WEAR INDICATORS

Your car's tires have wear indica- tors molded into the tread. When the tread wears down to that point, you will see a 12.7 mm (1/2 inch) wide band running across the tread. This shows there is less than 1.6
mm (1/16 inch) of tread left on the tire. A tire that is this worn gives very little traction on wet roads. You should replace the tire if you can see the tread wear indicator in three or more places around the tire.

Maintenance

Maintenance In addition to proper inflation, correct wheel alignment helps to decrease tire wear. You should get your car's wheel alignment check- ed every 12 months or 24,000 km (15,000 miles).

The tires were properly balanced by the factory. They may need to be rebalanced at some time before they are worn out. Have your dealer check the tires if you feel a consistent vibration while driving. A tire should always be rebalanced if it is removed from the wheel. Make sure the installer balances the wheels when you have new tires installed. This increases riding comfort and tire life.

Tire Rotation

Front

To help increase tire life and distribute wear more evenly, you should have the tires rotated every 12,000 km (7,500 miles). Move the tires to the positions shown in the chart each time they are rotated.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstReplacing Tires The tires that came with your Honda were selected to match the performance capabilities of the car and provide the best combination of handling, ride comfort, and long life. You should replace them with radial tires of the same size, load range, and speed rating. Mixing radial and bias-ply or bias-belted tires on your car can reduce its braking ability, traction, and steering accuracy.

It is best to replace all four tires at the same time. If that is not possi- ble or necessary, then replace the two front tires or the two rear tires as a pair. Replacing just one tire can seriously affect your car's han- dling. If you ever need to replace a wheel, make sure you use the same wheel that originally came on your Honda. Replacement wheels are available at your Honda dealer.

Wheels and Tires

Wheel: (US: S, Canada: S)

14 x 5.5 JJ

(US: Si, Si 4WS, Canada: SR, SR 4WS)

15 x 6.5 JJ

Tire: (US: S, Canada: S)

185/70R14 87H

(US: Si, Si 4WS, Canada: SR, SR 4WS)

205/55R15 87V

DOT Tire Quality Grading (US Cars) The tires on your car meet all U.S. Federal Safety Requirements. All tires are also graded for treadwear, traction, and temperature perform- ance according to Department of Transportation (DOT) standards. The following explains these gradings.

Tires

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a compara- tive rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under con- trolled conditions on a specified government test course. For exam- ple, a tire graded 150 would wear one and one half (1-1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative per- formance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, how- ever, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road character- istics and climate.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstWarning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading. either separately or in combination, can cause heat build-up and possible tire failure.

Tires

Traction The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.

Warning: The traction grade as- signed to this tire is based on brak- ing (straight ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.

Temperature The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstWinter Driving Tires that are marked "M+S" or "All Season" on the sidewall have an all-weather tread design. They should be suitable for most winter driving conditions. Tires without these markings are designed for optimum traction in dry conditions. They may not provide adequate performance in winter driving. For the best performance in snowy or icy conditions, you should install snow tires or tire chains. They may be required by local laws under certain conditions.

Snow Tires If you mount snow tires on your Honda, make sure they are radial tires of the same size and load range as the original tires. Mount snow tires on all four wheels to balance your car's handling in all weather conditions. Keep in mind the traction provided by snow tires on dry roads may not be as high as your car's original-equipment tires. You should drive cautiously even when the roads are clear. Check with the tire dealer for maximum speed recommendations.

Tire Chains Mount snow chains on your car when warranted by driving condi- tions or required by local laws. Make sure the chains are the cor- rect size for your tires. Install them only on the front tires. If metal chains are used, they must be SAE class"S". Cable type traction de- vices can also be used.

Tires

When installing chains, follow the manufacturer's instructions and mount them as tightly as you can. Drive slowly with chains installed. If you hear the chains contacting the body or chassis, stop and tighten them. If they still make contact, slow down until it stops. Remove the chains as soon as you begin driving on cleared roads.

NOTICE

Chains of the wrong size or that are improperly installed can damage your car's brake lines, suspension, body, and wheels. Stop driving if you hear the chains hitting any part of the car.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstReplacing a Headlight Bulb Your car has two bulbs on each side, four in total. Make sure you are replacing the bulb that is burned out. Your car uses halogen headlight bulbs. When replacing a bulb, handle it by its plastic case and protect the glass from contact with your skin or hard objects. If you touch the glass, clean it with denatured alcohol and a clean cloth.

NOTICE

Halogen headlight bulbs get very hot when lit. Oil, perspiration, or a scratch on the glass can cause the bulb to overheat and shatter.

Lights

Check the operation of your car's exterior lights at least once a month. A burned out bulb can create an unsafe condition by reducing your car's visibility and the ability to signal your intentions to other drivers. Check the following:

Headlights (low and high beam) Parking lights Taillights Brake lights High-mount brake light Turn signals Back-up lights Hazard light function License plate light Side marker lights Daytime running lights (Canadian cars)

If you find any bulbs are burned out, replace them as soon as possible. Refer to the chart on page 207 to determine what type of replacement bulb is needed.

Maintenance

1. Open the hood.

If you need to change the high beam headlight bulb on the passenger's side, remove the radiator reserve tank by pulling it straight up.

2. To disconnect the bulb from the

electrical harness, push on the end of the lock tab to release the connector then push the connec- tor straight down.

Main MenuTable of Contentsst3. Turn the lock ring counterclock- wise (about one-quarter turn) to unlock the headlight bulb.

4. Remove the bulb by pulling it

straight out of its recess.

5. Install the new bulb with the electrical connector pointing down. Make sure all three tabs on the bulb are seated in their slots in the headlight.

6. Turn the lock ring clockwise to

lock the bulb in place. Do not force the ring. Check the seating of the bulb's tabs if the ring will not return to its original position.

7. Reinstall the harness connector

on the bulb connector. Make sure it locks in place. Turn on the headlights to test the new bulb.

8. (Passenger's side)

Reinstall the radiator reserve tank.

Lights

Replacing a Parking Light Bulb

SCREW

1. Use a phillips head screwdriver

to remove the screw from the top of the fender.

2. Move the parking light assembly forward until it slides out of the body.

3. Turn the socket one-quarter turn

counterclockwise to remove it from the lens.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstLights

4. Pull the bulb straight out of its

socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.

5. Insert the socket back into the

lens. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.

6. Turn on the parking lights to

make sure the new bulb works.

7. To reinstall the light assembly in the fender, line up the fingers on the light assembly with the holes in the fender. Push the light assembly straight back.

8. Install the mounting screw and

tighten it securely.

Maintenance

Replacing a Front Side Marker Light Bulb

BULB

SCREW

FRONT SIDE MARKER ASSEMBLY

BULB HOLDER

1. Use a phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the side marker assem- bly's mounting screw.

3. Remove the bulb holder from the side marker assembly by turning it one-quarter counterclockwise.

2. Remove the side marker assem-

bly from the bumper.

4. Pull the bulb straight out of its

socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.

Main MenuTable of Contentsst5. Push the bulb holder into the side

marker assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks.

6. Test the side marker to make sure the new bulb is working.

7. Put the side marker assembly

into the bumper. Make sure the tab on the side marker assembly fits into the bumper slot. Tighten the mounting screw.

Lights

Replacing a Front Turn Signal Light Bulb

TURN SIGNAL ASSEMBLY

SCREW

BULB

BULB HOLDER

1. Use a phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the turn signal assem- bly's mounting screw.

3. Remove the bulb holder from the

turn signal assembly by turning it counterclockwise.

2. Remove the turn signal assembly

from the bumper.

4. Remove the burned out bulb

from the socket by pushing it in and turning counterclockwise until it unlocks. Install the new bulb.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstReplacing a High-mount Brake Light Bulb

Lights

5. Push the bulb holder into the

turn signal assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks.

6. Test the turn signals to make sure the new bulb is working.

7. Put the turn signal assembly into

the bumper. Make sure the tab on the turn signal assembly fits into the bumper slot. Tighten the mounting screw.

COVER

1. Remove the cover by pulling it

down and sliding it forward.

4. Test the lights to make sure the

new bulb is working.

2. Determine which bulb is burned

out.

5. Reinstall the cover by sliding it into position and pushing it up.

3. Pull the bulb straight out of its

socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstReplacing Rear Bulbs

COVER

Lights

4. Install the new bulb in the socket.

Test it to make sure it works.

5. Reinstall the bulb holder assem-

bly. Install the two screws and tighten them securely.

1. Open the trunk and the taillight

assembly cover.

2. Use a phillips head screwdriver to remove the two screws from the bulb holder. Remove the holder from the taillight assem- bly.

3. Try the tail/stoplights, rear turn

signals and back-up lights to verify which bulb needs replac- ing. Remove that bulb from the socket by pushing it in slightly and turning it counterclockwise.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstLights

Replacing a Rear Side Marker Light Bulb

5. Insert the socket in the assembly.

Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.

6. Reinstall the side marker assem-

bly in the fender. Tighten the mounting screw securely.

SCREW

1. Use a phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the side marker assem- bly mounting screw.

3. Remove the socket from the light assembly by turning it counterclockwise.

2. Remove the assembly from the fender by pulling out the back edge and sliding the assembly backwards.

4. Remove the bulb from the socket

by pulling it straight out. Install the new bulb. Turn on the headlights to test the bulb.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstReplacing a Rear License Bulb

4. Turn on the parking lights and

check that the new bulb is working.

5. Reinstall the cover and the lens.

Put the license light assembly in place. Reinstall the two screws and tighten them securely.

1. Remove the two screws and

remove the license light assem- bly.

2. Remove the lens from the rubber

seal and the metal cover.

3. Pull the bulb straight out of its

socket. Push the new bulb in until it bottoms in the socket.

Lights

Replacing Interior and Trunk Light Bulbs

INTERIOR LIGHT

1. Remove the lens by carefully

prying on the edge of the lens in the middle with a fingernail file or a small flat-tip screwdriver. Do not pry on the edge of the housing around the lens.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstLights

TRUNK LIGHT

2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.

3. Push the new bulb into the metal tabs. Snap the lens back in place.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstStoring Your Car

If you need to park your car for an extended period (more than 1
month), there are several things you should do to prepare it for storage. Proper preparation helps prevent deterioration and makes it easier to get your car back on the road. It is best to store your car indoors if at all possible.

Block the rear wheels.

If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jackstands so the tires are off the ground.

Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors).

Fill the gas tank.

Disconnect the battery.

If you store your car for 12 months or longer, have your Honda dealer perform the inspections called for in the 24 months/48,000 km (30,000
miles) maintenance schedule as soon as you take it out of storage (see page 133). The replacements called for in the maintenance schedule are not needed unless the car has actually reached that time or mileage.

Change the engine oil and filter (see page 137).

Wash and dry the exterior completely.

Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry.

Leave the parking brake off. Put the transmission in Reverse (5- speed) or Park (automatic).

Cover the car with a "breathable" car cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton. Nonporous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture which can damage the paint.

If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month).

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstAppearance Care

Regular cleaning and polishing of your Honda helps to keep it "new" looking. This section gives you hints on how to clean and preserve your car's appearance: the paint, brightwork, wheels and interior. Also included are several things you can do to help prevent corro- sion.

Exterior Care................................ 176
Washing..................................... 176
Waxing....................................... 177
Aluminum Wheels................... 177
Paint Touch-up......................... 178
Interior Care.................................. 179
Carpeting................................... 179
Fabric........................................ 179
Vinyl........................................... 179
Seat Belts.................................. 179
Windows..................................... 180
Air Fresheners.......................... 180
Corrosion Protection................... 180
Body Repairs................................. 181

Appearance Care

Main MenustExterior Care

Washing Frequent washing helps preserve your car's beauty. Dirt and grit can scratch the paint, while tree sap and bird droppings can perma- nently ruin the finish.

Wash your car in a shady area, not in direct sunlight. If the car is parked in the sun, move it into the shade and let the exterior cool down before you start.

NOTICE

Chemical solvents and strong cleaners can damage the paint, metal and plastic on your car. Only use the solvents and cleaners recommended in this Owner's Manual.

Appearance Care

When you have washed and rinsed the whole exterior, dry it with a chamois or soft towel. Letting it air-dry will cause dulling and water spots.

As you dry the car, inspect it for chips and scratches that could allow corrosion to start. Repair them with touch-up paint (see page 178).

Rinse the car thoroughly with cool water to remove loose dirt.

Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild detergent, such as dishwashing liquid or a product made especially for car washing.

Wash the car, using the water and detergent solution and a soft- bristle brush, sponge or soft cloth. Start at the top and work your way down. Rinse frequently.

Check the body for road tar, tree sap, etc. Remove these stains with tar remover or turpentine. Rinse it off immediately so it does not harm the finish. Remem- ber to re-wax these areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstWaxing Always wash and dry the whole car before waxing it. You should wax your car, including the metal trim, whenever water sits on the surface in large patches. It should form into beads or droplets after waxing.

You should use a quality liquid or paste wax. Apply it according to the instructions on the container. In general, there are two types of products:

Waxes — A wax coats the finish and protects it from damage by exposure to sunlight, air pollution, etc. You should use a wax on your Honda when it is new.

Polishes — Polishes and cleaner/ waxes can restore the shine to paint that has oxidized and lost some of its shine. They normally contain mild abrasives and solvents that remove the top layer of the finish. You should use a polish on your Honda if the finish does not have its original shine after using a wax.

Cleaning tar, insects, etc. with removers also takes off the wax. Remember to re-wax those areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.

Exterior Care

Aluminum Wheels Clean your Honda's aluminum alloy wheels as you do the rest of the exterior. Wash them with the same solution, and rinse them thoroughly.

The wheels have a protective clear- coat that keeps the aluminum from corroding and tarnishing. Using harsh chemicals, including some commercial wheel cleaners, or stiff brushes can damage this clear-coat. Only use a mild detergent and soft brush or sponge to clean the wheels.

Appearance Care

Main MenuTable of ContentsstExterior Care

Paint Touch-up Your dealer has touch-up paint to match your car's color. The color code is printed on a sticker on the driver's door jamb. Take this code to your dealer so you are sure to get the correct color.

Appearance Care

Examine the chip or scratch closely before repairing it. If it does not go down to bare metal, clean it with soap and water and apply the touch-up paint. If it does go to the metal, apply a coat of primer first. After this dries, apply the touch-up paint. Build up the paint in the damaged area to the level of the surrounding paint. Several thin coats of paint are better than one thick coat.

TOUCH-UP PAINT

Inspect your car for chipped or scratched paint every time you wash it. Repair it as soon as possible to prevent corrosion. Use the touch-up paint on small chips and scratches. More extensive damage should be repaired by a professional.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstVinyl Remove dirt and dust with a vacuum cleaner. Wipe the vinyl with a soft cloth dampened in a solution of mild soap and water. Use the same solution with a soft- bristle brush on more difficult spots. You can also use commercially- available spray or foam-type vinyl cleaners. Seat Belts If your seat belts get dirty, you can use a soft brush to clean them with a mixture of mild soap and warm water. Do not use bleach, dye, or cleaning solvents. They can weaken the belt material. Let the belts air-dry before you use the car.

Carpeting Vacuum the carpeting frequently to remove dirt. Ground-in dirt will make the carpet wear out faster. Periodically shampoo the carpet to keep it looking new. Use one of the foam-type carpet cleaners on the market. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner, apply- ing it with a sponge or soft brush. Keep the carpeting as dry as possi- ble by not adding water to the foam. Fabric Vacuum dirt and dust out of the material frequently. For general cleaning, use a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water, letting it air dry. To clean off stubborn spots, use a commercially-available fabric cleaner. Test it on a hidden area of the fabric first, to make sure it does not bleach or stain the fabric. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner.

Interior Care

METAL LOOP

Dirt build-up in the metal loops of the seat belt anchors can cause the belts to retract slowly. Wipe the inside of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in isopropyl alcohol.

Appearance Care

Main MenuTable of ContentsstInterior Care, Corrosion Protection

Windows Clean the windows, inside and out, with a commercially-available glass cleaner. You can also use a mixture of one part white vinegar to ten parts water. This will remove the haze that builds up on the inside of the windows. Use a soft cloth or paper towels to clean all glass and clear plastic surfaces.

NOTICE

The rear window defogger wires are bonded to the inside of the glass. Wiping vigorously up-and-down can dislodge and break the defog- ger wires. When cleaning the rear window, use gentle pressure and wipe side-to-side.

Appearance Care

Air Fresheners If you want to use an air freshener/ deodorizer in the interior of your car, it is best to use a solid type. Some liquid air fresheners contain chemicals that may cause parts of the interior trim and fabric to crack or discolor.

If you use a liquid air freshener, make sure you fasten it securely so it does not spill as you drive.

Corrosion Protection Two factors normally contribute to causing corrosion in your car:

1. Moisture trapped in body cavi- ties. Dirt and road salt that col- lects in hollows on the underside of the car stays damp, promoting corrosion in that area.

2. Removal of paint and protective

coatings from the exterior and underside of the car.

Many corrosion-preventive mea- sures are built into your Honda. You can help keep your car from corroding by performing some simple periodic maintenance:

Repair chips and scratches in the paint as soon as you discover them.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstInspect and clean out the drain holes in the bottom of the doors and body.

Check the floor coverings for dampness. Carpeting and floor mats may remain damp for a long time, especially in winter. This dampness can eventually cause the floor panels to corrode.

Use a high-pressure spray to clean the underside of your car. This is especially important in areas that use road salt in winter. It is also a good idea in humid climates and areas subject to salt air. Cars equipped with ABS have a sensor and wiring at each wheel. Be careful not to damage them.

Have the corrosion-preventive coatings on the underside of your car inspected and repaired periodically.

Corrosion Protection, Body Repairs

Body Repairs Body repairs affect your car's resistance to corrosion. If your car needs repairs after a collision, pay close attention to the parts used in the repair and the quality of the work.

Make sure the repair facility uses genuine Honda replacement body parts. Some companies make sheetmetal pieces that seem to duplicate the original Honda body parts, but are actually inferior in fit, finish, and quality. Once installed, they do not give the same high- quality appearance and level of corrosion resistance.

When reporting your collision to the insurance company, tell them you want genuine Honda parts used in the repair. Although most insurers recognize the higher quality of original parts, some may try to specify that the repairs be done with the "lowest cost" parts available. You should investigate this before any repairs are begun.

Take your car to your authorized Honda dealer for inspection after the repairs are completed. He can make sure that quality materials were used, and that corrosion- preventive coatings were applied to all repaired and replaced parts.

Appearance Care

Main MenuTable of ContentsstTaking Care of the Unexpected

This section covers the more- common problems that motorists experience with their cars. It gives you information about how to safely evaluate the problem and what to do to correct it. If the problem has stranded you on the side of the road, you may be able to get going again. If not, you will also find instructions on getting your car towed.

Compact Spare Tire..................... 184
Changing a Flat Tire................... 185
If Your Engine Won't Start........ 190
Nothing Happens...................... 190
The Starter Operates

Normally................................ 191
Jump Starting................................ 191
If Your Engine Overheats.......... 193
Low Oil Pressure.......................... 195
Charging System Indication ...... 196
Check Engine Light..................... 197
Closing the Sunroof ..................... 198
Fuses............................................... 199
Checking and Replacing......... 200
Towing........................................... 202

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Main MenustCompact Spare Tire

Your car has a compact spare tire that takes up less space. Use this spare tire as a temporary replace- ment only. Get your regular tire repaired or replaced and put back on your car as soon as you can.

Check the inflation of the compact spare tire every time you check the other tires. It should be inflated to: 415 kPa (4.15 kg/cm2, 60 psi)

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Follow these precautions whenever you are using the compact spare tire:

INDICATOR LOCATION MARK

Do not exceed 50 mph (80 km/h) under any circumstances.

This tire gives a harsher ride and less traction on some road sur- faces than the regular tire. Use greater caution while driving on this tire.

Do not mount snow chains on the compact spare.

The wheel of the compact spare tire is designed especially to fit your car. Do not use your spare tire on another car unless it is the same make and model.

TREAD WEAR INDICATOR BAR

The compact spare tire has a shorter tread life than a regular tire. Replace it when you can see the tread wear indicator bars. The replacement should be the same size and design tire, mounted on the same wheel. The compact spare tire is not designed to be mounted on a regular wheel, and the com- pact wheel is not designed for mounting a regular tire.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstIf you have a flat tire while driving, stop in a safe place to change it. Stopping in traffic or on the shoul- der of a busy road is dangerous. Drive slowly along the shoulder until you get to an exit or an area to stop that is far away from the traf- fic lanes.

The car can easily roll off the jack, seriously injuring anyone underneath.

Follow the directions for chang- ing a tire exactly, and never get under the car when it is supported only by the jack.

1. Park the car on firm, level

ground away from traffic. Turn on the hazard warning lights and turn the ignition to LOCK (0).

Changing a Flat Tire

TRUNK FLOOR

JACK

5. Unscrew the wing bolt and take the spare tire out of the trunk.

SPARE TIRE

TOOL KIT

2. Put the transmission in Park

(automatic) or Reverse (5-speed). Set the parking brake.

3. Open the trunk. Raise the trunk

floor by lifting up on the back edge.

4. Take the tool kit out of the trunk.

CONTINUED

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Main MenuTable of ContentsstChanging a Flat Tire

HANDLE

COVER

JACK

6. The jack is behind a cover in the right fender. Remove the cover by turning the handle clockwise, then pulling on the cover.

7. Turn the jack's end bracket

counterclockwise to loosen it, then remove the jack.

8. Loosen the four wheel nuts 1/2

turn with the wheel wrench.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Main MenuTable of ContentsstChanging a Flat Tire

JACKING POINT

WHEEL WRENCH

EXTENSION

9. Locate the jacking point nearest the tire you need to change. It is pointed to by an arrow molded into the underside of the body. Place the jack under the jacking point. Turn the end bracket clockwise until the top of the jack contacts the jacking point. Make sure the jacking point tab is resting on the jack notch.

10.Use the extension and wheel

wrench as shown to raise the car until the flat tire is off the ground.

11.Remove the wheel nuts and flat tire. Temporarily place the flat tire on the ground with the outside surface of the wheel facing up. The outside surface contacting the ground could damage the wheel surface.

CONTINUED

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Main MenuTable of ContentsstChanging a Flat Tire

BRAKE HUB

12.Before mounting the spare tire, wipe any dirt off the mounting surface of the wheel and hub with a cloth.

13.Put on the spare tire. Put the

wheel nuts back on finger-tight, then tighten them in a crisscross pattern with the wheel wrench until the wheel is firmly against the hub. Do not try to tighten them fully.

14.Lower the car to the ground and

remove the jack.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Main MenuTable of ContentsstWING BOLT

Changing a Flat Tire

SPACER CONE

19.Store the jack in its holder with

the end bracket facing to the rear. Turn the jack' s end bracket to lock it in place. Replace the cover. Store the tool kit.

20.Store the wheel cover or center

cap in the trunk.

15.Tighten the wheel nuts securely in the same crisscross pattern. Have the wheel nut torque check- ed at the nearest automotive service facility. Tighten the wheel nuts to: 110 N.m (11 kg-m, 80 Ib-ft)

16.Remove the wheel cover or

center cap. Place the flat tire face down in the trunk well.

17.Remove the spacer cone from the wing bolt, turn it over, and put it back on the bolt.

18.Secure the flat tire by screwing the wing bolt back into its hole.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Main MenuTable of ContentsstIf Your Engine Won't Start

Diagnosing why your engine won't start falls into two areas, depending on what you hear when you turn the key to START (III):

You hear nothing, or almost nothing. The engine's starter motor does not operate at all, or operates very slowly.

You can hear the starter motor operating normally, but the engine does not start up and run.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Nothing Happens or the Starter Motor Operates Very Slowly When you turn the ignition switch to START (III), you do not hear the normal noise of the engine trying to start. You may hear a clicking sound or series of clicks, or nothing at all. Check these things:

Check the transmission interlock. If you have a 5-speed, the clutch pedal must be pushed all the way to the floor or the starter will not operate. With an automatic transmission, it must be in Park or Neutral.

Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the headlights and check their brightness. If the headlights are very dim or don't light at all, the battery is dis- charged. See Jump Starting on page 191.

Turn the ignition switch to START (III). If the headlights do not dim, check the condition of the fuses. If the fuses are OK, there is probably something wrong with the electrical circuit for the ignition switch or starter motor. You will need a qualified technician to determine the problem. (See Towing on page 202.)

If the headlights dim noticeably or go out when you try to start the engine, either the battery is discharged or the connections are corroded. Check the condi- tion of the battery and terminal connections (see page 153 ). You can then try jump starting the car from a booster battery (see page 191).

Main MenuTable of ContentsstIf Your Engine Won't Start, Jump Starting

The Starter Operates Normally In this case, the starter motor sounds normal when you turn the ignition switch to START (III), but the engine does not run.

Are you using the proper starting procedure? Refer to Starting the Engine on page 109 .

Do you have gas? Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) for a minute and watch the fuel gauge.

There may be an electrical problem, such as no power to the fuel pump. Check all the fuses (see page 199 ).

Jump Starting If your car's battery has run down, you may be able to start the engine by using a booster battery. Although this seems like a simple procedure, there are several precau- tions you should take. Follow the directions closely.

A battery can explode if you do not follow the correct procedure, seriously injuring anyone nearby.

Keep all sparks, open flames, and smoking materials away from the battery.

If you find nothing wrong, you will need a qualified technician to find the problem. See Towing on page 202.

You cannot start a Honda with an automatic transmision by pushing or pulling it.

To jump start your car:

1. Open the hood and check the

physical condition of the battery (see page 152 ). In very cold weather, check the condition of the electrolyte. If it seems slushy or like ice, do not try jump starting until it thaws.

NOTICE

If a battery sits in extreme cold, the electrolyte inside can freeze. Attempting to jump start with a frozen battery can cause it to rupture or explode.

2. Turn off all the electrical acces-

sories: heater, A/C, stereo system, lights, etc. Put the transmission in Neutral or Park and set the parking brake.

CONTINUED

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Main MenuTable of ContentsstJump Starting

3. Connect one jumper cable to the

positive (+) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the positive (+) terminal on your Honda's battery.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

BOOSTER BATTERY

4. Connect the second jumper cable

to the negative (—) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the grounding strap as shown. Do not connect this jumper cable to any other part of the engine.

5. If the booster battery is in

another car, have an assistant start that car and run it at a fast idle.

6. Start your car. If the starter

motor still operates slowly, check the jumper cable connections to make sure they have good metal- to-metal contact.

7. Once your car is running,

disconnect the negative cable from your car, then from the booster battery. Disconnect the positive cable from your car, then the booster battery.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstYour car's temperature gauge should register in the midrange under most conditions. It may register higher if you are driving up a long steep hill on a very hot day. If it illuminates the red marker at the right end of the gauge, you should determine the reason.

NOTICE

Driving with the temperature gauge's red marker lit can cause serious damage to your engine.

Your car can overheat for several reasons, such as lack of coolant or a mechanical problem. The only indication may be the temperature gauge illuminating the red marker. Or you may see steam or spray coming from under the hood. In either case, you should take immediate action.

Steam and spray from an over- heated engine can seriously scald you.

Do not open the hood if steam is coming out.

1. Safely pull to the side of the road.

Put the transmission in neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Turn off the climate control and all other accessories. Turn on the hazard warning indicators.

If Your Engine Overheats

2. If you see steam and/or spray coming from under the hood, turn off the engine.

3. If you do not see steam or spray,

leave the engine running and watch the temperature gauge. If the high heat is due to overload- ing (climbing a long, steep hill on a hot day with the A/C running, for example), the engine should start to cool down almost immedi- ately. If it does, wait until the temperature gauge comes down to the midpoint then continue driving.

4. If the temperature gauge continues to display the red marker, turn off the engine.

5. Wait until you see no more signs

of steam or spray, then open the hood.

CONTINUED

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Main MenuTable of ContentsstIf Your Engine Overheats

6. Look for any obvious coolant leaks, such as a split radiator hose. Everything is still extreme- ly hot, so use caution. If you find a leak, it must be repaired before you continue driving (see Towing on page 202 ).

7. If you don't find an obvious leak,

check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank (see page 139). If the level is below the MIN mark, add coolant to half- way between the MIN and MAX marks.

8. If there was no coolant in the

reserve tank, you may also have to add coolant to the radiator. Let the engine cool down until the temperature gauge registers below the midpoint, or lower, before checking the radiator.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Removing the radiator cap while the engine is hot can cause the coolant to spray out, seriously scalding you.

Always let the engine and radiator cool down before removing the radiator cap.

9. Using gloves or a large heavy

cloth, turn the radiator cap counterclockwise, without pushing down, to the first stop. This releases any remaining pressure in the cooling system. After the pressure releases, push down on the cap and turn it until it comes off.

10.Start the engine and set the

heater control lever to maximum. Add coolant to the radiator up to the base of the filler neck. If you do not have the proper coolant mixture available, you can add plain water. Remember to have the cooling system drained and refilled with the proper mixture as soon as you can.

11.Put the radiator cap back on tightly. Run the engine and watch the temperature gauge. If it illuminates the red marker again, the engine needs repair. (See Towing on page 202.)

12.If the temperature stays normal,

check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank. If it has gone down, add coolant to the MAX mark. Put the cap back on tightly.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstLow Oil Pressure

4. Start the engine and watch the

oil pressure light. If the light does not go out within ten seconds, turn off the engine. There is a mechanical problem that needs to be repaired before you can continue driving. (See Towing on page 202.)

1. Safely pull off the road and shut

off the engine.

2. Let the car sit for a minute. Open

the hood and check the oil level (see page 135). Although oil level and oil pressure are not directly connected, an engine that is very low on oil can lose pressure during cornering and other driving maneuvers.

3. If necessary, add oil to bring the level back to the full mark on the dipstick (see page 135).

Taking Care of the Unexpected

LOW OIL PRESSURE LIGHT

The low oil pressure light should never come on when the engine is running. If this light comes on with the engine running, take immediate action.

NOTICE

Running the engine with low oil pressure can cause serious mechani- cal damage almost immediately. Turn off the engine as soon as you can safely get the car stopped.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstImmediately turn off all electrical accessories: radio, heater, A/C, rear defogger, cruise control, etc. Try not to use other electrically- operated controls such as the power windows. Keep the engine running and take extra care not to stall it. Starting the engine will discharge the battery rapidly.

By eliminating as much of the electrical load as possible, you can drive several miles before the battery is too discharged to keep the engine running. Drive to a service station or garage where you can get technical assistance.

Charging System Indication

CHARGING SYSTEM LIGHT

The charging system light should go out after the engine starts. If it comes on brightly with the engine running, the alternator is no longer charging the battery.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Main MenuTable of ContentsstCheck Engine Light

NOTICE

If you keep driving with the check engine light on, you can damage your car's emission controls and engine. Those repairs are not covered by your car's warranties.

If this light comes on, safely pull off the road and turn off the engine. Restart the engine and watch the check engine light. If it stays on, have your car checked by the dealer as soon as possible. You should also have the dealer inspect your car if the light comes on frequently, even though it goes off when you do the above procedure.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

If the check engine light comes on while driving, there is a problem with your engine or its emission control systems. Even though you may feel no difference in your car's performance, it can reduce your fuel economy and cause your car to put out excessive emissions. Continued operation may cause serious engine damage.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstClosing the Sunroof

If the electric motor will not close the sunroof, do the following:

1. Check the fuse for the sunroof

motor (see page 200 ). If the fuse is blown, replace it with one of the same or lower rating.

2. Try closing the sunroof. If the new fuse blows immediately or the sunroof motor still does not operate, you can close the sunroof manually.

3. Get the tool kit out of the trunk.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

SOCKET

ROUND PLUG

4. Pry off the round plug in the

center of the headliner.

5. Insert the sunroof wrench into

the socket behind this plug. Turn the wrench until the sunroof is fully closed.

6. Remove the wrench. Replace the

round plug.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstAll the electrical circuits in your car have fuses to protect them from a short circuit or overload. These fuses are located in two fuse boxes.

UNDERHOOD

TAB

INTERIOR

Fuses

KNOB

The underhood fuse box is located in the engine compartment next to the battery. To open, push the tab as shown.

The interior fuse box is underneath the dashboard on the driver's side. To open, turn the knob as shown.

CONTINUED

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Main MenuTable of ContentsstFuses

Checking and Replacing Fuses If something electrical in your car stops working, the first thing you should check for is a blown fuse. Determine from the chart on the fuse box cover or inside the fuse box which fuse or fuses control that component. Check those fuses first, but check all the fuses before deciding that is not the cause. Replace any blown fuses and check the component's operation.

1. Turn the ignition switch to

LOCK (0). Make sure the head- lights and all other accessories are off.

2. Remove the cover from the fuse

box.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

FUSE PULLER

BLOWN

3. Check each of the large fuses in

the underhood fuse box by looking through the top at the wire inside. Removing these fuses requires a phillips-head screwdriver.

4. Check the smaller fuses in the underhood fuse box and all the fuses in the interior fuse box by pulling out each fuse with the fuse puller provided in the interior fuse box.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstBLOWN

5. Look for a burned wire inside the fuse. If it is burned out, replace it with one of the spare fuses of the same rating or lower.

If you cannot drive the car without fixing the problem, and you do not have a spare fuse, take a fuse of the same rating or a lower rating from one of the other circuits. Make sure you can do without that circuit temporarily (such as the rear window defogger, or radio). If you replace the burned out fuse with a spare fuse that has a lower rating, it might blow out again. This does not indicate anything wrong. Replace the fuse with one of the correct rating as soon as you can.

Fuses

NOTICE

Replacing a fuse with one that has a higher rating greatly increases the chances of damaging the electrical system. If you do not have a replacement fuse with the proper rating for the circuit, install one with a lower rating.

6. If the replacement fuse of the

same rating burns out in a short time, there is probably a serious electrical problem in your car. Leave the burned out fuse in that circuit and have your car check- ed by a qualified technician.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Main MenuTable of ContentsstTowing

If your car needs to be towed, call a professional towing service or, if you belong to one, an organization that provides roadside assistance. Never tow your car behind another car with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous. Emergency Towing There are three popular methods of towing a car: Flat-bed Equipment — The operator loads your car on the back of a truck. This is the best way of transporting your Honda.

Wheel Lift Equipment — The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear) and lift them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on the ground.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Sling-type Equipment — The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension and the cables lift that end of the car off the ground. Your car's sus- pension and body can be seriously damaged if this method of towing is attempted.

If your Honda cannot be trans- ported by flat-bed, it should be towed with the front wheels off the ground. If due to damage, your car must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, do the following:

5-Speed Transmission

Release the parking brake. Shift the transmission to Neutral.

Automatic Transmission

Release the parking brake. Start the engine. Shift to D4, then to N. Turn off the engine.

NOTICE

Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine (automatic trans- mission), your car must be trans- ported on a flat-bed.

It is best to tow the car no far- ther than 80 km (50 miles), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55
km/h).

NOTICE

Trying to lift or tow your car by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not designed to support the car's weight.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstThe diagrams in this section give you the dimensions and capacities of your Honda, and the locations of the identification numbers. The explanations of several electronic and mechanical systems on your Honda are for the more technically- oriented owner.

Technical Information

Identification Numbers............... 204
Specifications................................ 206
Anti-lock Brake System ............. 208
Supplemental Restraint

System........................................ 209
Four Wheel Steering ................... 210
Emission Controls......................... 211
The Clean Air Act.................... 211
Crankcase Emission Control

System.................................... 211

Evaporative Emission Control

System.................................... 211
Exhaust Emission Controls.... 212
PGM-FI System.................... 212
Ignition Timing Control

System................................ 212

Exhaust Gas

Recirculation..................... 212
Catalytic Converter............. 212
Replacement Parts................... 212
Catalytic Converter..................... 213

Technical Information

Main MenustIdentification Numbers

Your car has several identifying numbers located in various places.

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is the 17-digit number your Honda dealer uses to register your car for warranty purposes. It is also necessary for licensing and insur- ing your car. The easiest place to find the VIN is on a plate fastened to the top of the dashboard. You can see it by looking through the windshield on the driver's side. It is also on the Certification label at- tached to the driver's door jamb, and is stamped on the engine com- partment bulkhead. The VIN is also provided in bar code on the Certification label.

Technical Information

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

CERTIFICATION LABEL

Main MenuTable of ContentsstIdentification Numbers

MANUAL TRANSMISSION NUMBER

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION NUMBER

The Engine Number is stamped into the engine block.

The Transmission Number is on a label on top of the transmission.

ENGINE NUMBER

Technical Information

Main MenuTable of ContentsstSpecifications

* 1 : US: S, Canada: S * 2 : US: Si, Si 4WS, Canada: SR, SR 4WS

page 152

Technical Information

* 1 : Including the coolant in the reserve tank and that remaining in the engine.

Reserve tank capacity: 0.6

(0.16 US gal,0.13 Imp gal)

* 2 : US: S, Canada: S * 3 : US: Si, Si 4WS, Canada: SR, SR 4WS * 4 : Excluding the oil remaining in the engine.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstSpecifications

* 1 : US: S, Canada: S * 2 : US: Si, Si 4WS, Canada: SR, SR 4WS

Technical Information

Main MenuTable of ContentsstAnti-lock Brake System

The Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is standard equipment on the Prelude Si, Si 4WS sold in the U.S. and SR, SR 4WS sold in Canada. It is not available on any other models.

The ABS works by measuring how fast the wheels are turning during braking and comparing their speed. If any wheel is rotating much slower than the others (on the verge of locking up and skidding), the system reduces hydraulic pressure to that wheel's brake caliper. When that wheel's speed matches the other wheels, the system applies normal hydraulic pressure. This can take place several times per second at each wheel. You feel the ABS working as rapid pulsations in the brake pedal.

Technical Information

Each wheel has a wheel speed sensor assembly. As the wheel rotates, the sensor sends electrical pulses to the ABS control unit. The pulse frequency varies with the wheel speed.

The electrical output of the ABS control unit is connected to the modulator/solenoid unit. During braking, the ABS control unit monitors the pulse frequencies from the four wheels. When the control unit detects a wheel locking up, it energizes the appropriate solenoid in the modulator/solenoid unit. There are three solenoids: one for each front wheel, and one for the rear wheels. The energized solenoid reduces hydraulic pres- sure to one side of a modulator valve. This, in turn, reduces hydrau- lic pressure in the brake line going to the affected wheel. When that wheel speeds up because of the re- duced braking effort, the control

unit de-energizes the solenoid. This builds hydraulic pressure on the modulator valve. The pressure in- creases in the hydraulic line to the wheel.

For the system to react quickly, the modulator/solenoid unit must have brake fluid under high pressure. This is supplied by an accumulator that is pressurized by an electric pump. A pressure-sensing switch on the accumulator controls this pump.

The control unit also contains error detection circuitry. It monitors the operation of the wheel sensors, solenoids, pump, and electronics. If the control unit detects any faults, it shuts off power to the pump motor and solenoids. The light on the instrument panel comes on. The brakes then work like a conventional system without anti- lock capabilities.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstThe Honda Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) is standard on all Preludes sold in the U.S. and the SR, SR 4WS sold in Canada.

The SRS includes the steering wheel airbag assembly, sensors in the dashboard, and a control unit with sensors behind the center console. (On Si 4WS model) The system also has a dashboard- mounted airbag assembly for the passenger.

The sensors are decelerometers, set to trigger in a frontal impact that generates more force than a 10
mile per hour barrier crash. For the SRS to activate, at least two sen- sors must trigger. This duplication is to prevent accidental activation.

Supplemental Restraint System

When the control unit receives trigger signals from at least two sensors, it sends voltage to the airbag. The control unit stores this charge in capacitors to insure reliability even if a severe impact damages the car's battery or electrical connections.

The electrical charge sent to the airbag assembly ignites its propel- lant, which burns instantaneously. The gas produced by the burning propellant inflates the airbag in about 40 milliseconds (1/25 of a second).

The airbag is vented so it stays inflated for only an instant and does not block the driver's vision. Smoke from the burned propellant comes out of the airbag and into the car's interior. This is normal and does not mean there is a fire. The airbag collapses onto the driver's lap.

The airbag unit can inflate only one time. After use, your Honda dealer must check the complete Supple- mental Restraint System and re- place the airbag assembly.

To ensure long-term reliability, the SRS uses gold-plated electrical connections throughout. Exposed components are sealed with epoxy. The control unit monitors the SRS circuitry whenever the ignition is ON (II). If the control unit senses any faults, it turns on the SRS indicator light on the instrument panel. Take the car to your Honda dealer to diagnose and repair the system as soon as possible.

The SRS needs no regular mainte- nance other than an inspection by your Honda dealer ten years after manufacture.

Technical Information

Main MenuTable of ContentsstFour Wheel Steering

The Si 4WS model in the U. S and the SR 4WS model in Canada are equipped with an electronic Four Wheel Steering system.

As inputs, the 4WS system uses a vehicle speed sensor and a sensor to measure how far the front wheels are turned.

The electronic control unit for 4WS system uses these inputs to deter- mine which direction to steer the rear wheels, and at what angle. Depending on vehicle speed and the angle of the front wheels, the rear wheels will be "countersteered" (steered in the opposite direction of the front wheels) or "same-steered" (steered in the same direction as the front wheels).

Technical Information

The 4WS electronic control unit drives an electric motor built into the rear steering box. Sensors for rear wheel angle and speed provide feedback. The electronic control unit uses this feedback to compare the actual rear wheel angle to the desired angle.

When the driver turns the front wheels with the car traveling less than 18 mph (30 km/h), the rear wheels are countersteered. The angle of countersteer increases as the angle of the front wheels in- creases, to a maximum counter- steer angle of six degrees. This improves response when parallel parking or making sharp turns.

Above 18 mph (30 km/h), the rear wheels are same-steered as the driver begins to turn the steering wheel. The rear wheel angle for any given steering wheel angle is not fixed; it increases as vehicle

speed increases. This improves response in lane-changing maneu- vers.

As the driver continues to turn the steering wheel, the rear wheels are steered back to the straight-ahead position and then to countersteer