1995 Honda Accord Coupe Owners Manual

radiator reserve tank.

2. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by squeezing the connector to unlock the tab while you push down on the connector.

3. Remove the bulb by turning it one-

quarter turn counterclockwise.

5. Push the electrical connector back

onto the bulb. Make sure it is on all the way.

6. Turn on the headlights to test the

new bulb.

7. (Passenger's side)

Reinstall the radiator reserve tank.

Maintenance

Lights

Replacing a Front Turn Signal Light Bulb

6. Push the bulb holder into the turn

signal assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks.

7. Test the lights to make sure the

new bulb is working.

8. Put the turn signal assembly into the bumper. Make sure the tabs on the turn signal assembly fit into the bumper slots. Tighten the mounting screw.

TURN SIGNAL ASSEMBLY

BULB

BULB HOLDER

1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the turn signal assembly's mounting screw.

3. Remove the bulb holder from the turn signal assembly by turning it counterclockwise.

2. Remove the turn signal assembly

from the bumper.

4. Remove the burned out bulb from the socket by pulling it straight out of its socket.

5. Install the new bulb in the socket.

Maintenance

Replacing Front Side Marker and Parking Light Bulbs

SCREW

1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screw from the top of the fender.

3. Turn the bulb holder one-quarter

turn counterclockwise to remove it from the lens.

2. Move the side marker light

assembly forward until it pops out of the body.

4. Pull the bulb straight out of its

socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.

Lights

5. Put the bulb holder back into its

hole in the lens, and turn it clockwise until it locks.

6. Turn on the parking lights and

check that the new bulb is working.

7. Put the side marker assembly

back into the body. Push on the front edge until it snaps into place. Install the mounting screw and tighten it securely.

Maintenance

Lights

Replacing Rear Bulbs

KNOB

COVER

5. Install the new bulb in the socket.

6. Reinstall the socket into the light

assembly.

7. Test the lights to make sure the

new bulb is working.

8. Reinstall the taillight assembly

cover.

1. Open the trunk and remove the

taillight cover by turning the knob.

3. Remove the socket by turning it

one-quarter turn counterclockwise.

2. Determine which of the three

bulbs is burned out: tail/stoplight, back-up light or turn signal.

4. Remove the bulb by turning it one- quarter turn counterclockwise and pulling it out of the socket. Tail/stoplight Pull the burned out bulb straight out of its socket.

Maintenance

Replacing a Rear Side Marker Light Bulb

Lights

5. Insert the socket in the assembly.

Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.

6. Reinstall the side marker assem-

bly in the bumper. Tighten the mounting screw securely.

SCREW

1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the side marker assembly mounting screw.

3. Remove the socket from the light

assembly by turning it counter- clockwise.

2. Remove the assembly from the fender by pulling out the back edge and sliding the assembly backwards.

4. Remove the bulb from the socket

by pulling it straight out. Install the new bulb. Turn on the headlights to test the bulb.

Maintenance

Lights

Replacing a High-mount Brake Light Bulb

3. Install the new bulb and reinstall

the socket. Make sure the new bulb is working.

Replacing a Rear License Bulb

1. Open the trunk and remove the

socket from the light assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counter- clockwise.

2. Remove the burned-out bulb by

pulling it straight out of the socket.

Maintenance

BULB

1. Remove the two screws and

remove the license light assembly.

2. Remove the lens from the rubber

seal and the metal cover.

3. Pull the bulb straight out of its

socket. Push the new bulb in until it bottoms in the socket.

4. Turn on the parking lights and

check that the new bulb is working.

5. Reinstall the cover and the lens. Put the license light assembly in place. Reinstall the two screws and tighten them securely.

Replacing Bulbs in the Interior Lights The ceiling light, door light and vanity mirror light come apart the same way. They do not all use the same bulb.

1. Remove the lens by carefully

prying on the edge of the lens with a fingernail file or a small flat-tip screwdriver. Do not pry on the edge of the housing around the lens.

Door light:

Not available on Canadian LX model pry on the top middle of the lens.

Ceiling light:

pry on the front edge of the lens in the middle.

Lights

CEILING LIGHT

2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.

3. Push the new bulb into the metal tabs. Snap the lens back in place.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Lights

On U.S. LX and EX models, and Canadian EX-R model

On U.S. LX and EX models, and Canadian EX-R model

DOOR LIGHT

SUN VISOR

Replacing a Trunk Light Bulb

TRUNK

1. Remove the lens by carefully

prying on the edge of the lens in the middle with a fingernail file or a small flat-tip screwdriver. Do not pry on the edge of the housing around the lens.

2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.

3. Push the new bulb into the metal tabs. Snap the lens back in place.

Maintenance

If you need to park your car for an extended period (more than 1
month), there are several things you should do to prepare it for storage. Proper preparation helps prevent deterioration and makes it easier to get your car back on the road. It is best to store your car indoors if at all possible.

Block the rear wheels.

If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jackstands so the tires are off the ground.

Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors).

Fill the fuel tank.

Disconnect the battery.

Change the engine oil and filter (see page 145).

Wash and dry the exterior completely.

Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry.

Leave the parking brake off. Put the transmission in Reverse (manual) or Park (automatic).

Support the front wiper blade arms with a folded towel or rag so they do not touch the windshield.

Apply a silicone spray lubricant to all door and trunk seals. Also, apply wax to the painted surfaces that mate with the door and trunk seals.

Storing Your Car

Cover the car with a "breathable" car cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton. Nonporous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture which can damage the paint.

If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month).

If you store your car for 12 months or longer, have your Honda dealer perform the inspections called for in the 24 months/48,000 km (30,000
miles) maintenance schedule (Normal Conditions) as soon as you take it out of storage (see page 136). The replacements called for in the maintenance schedule are not needed unless the car has actually reached that time or mileage.

Maintenance

Regular cleaning and polishing of your Honda helps to keep it "new" looking. This section gives you hints on how to clean and preserve your car's appearance: the paint, bright- work, wheels and interior. Also included are several things you can do to help prevent corrosion.

Appearance Care

Exterior Care.................................. 184
Washing...................................... 184
Waxing........................................ 185
Aluminum Wheels..................... 185
Paint Touch-up........................... 186
Interior Care................................... 187
Carpeting.................................... 187
Fabric.......................................... 187
Vinyl............................................ 187
Leather........................................187
Seat Belts.................................... 188
Windows..................................... 188
Air Fresheners........................... 188
Corrosion Protection..................... 189
Body Repairs.................................. 190

Appearance Care

Exterior Care

Washing Frequent washing helps preserve your car's beauty. Dirt and grit can scratch the paint, while tree sap and bird droppings can permanently ruin the finish.

Wash your car in a shady area, not in direct sunlight. If the car is parked in the sun, move it into the shade and let the exterior cool down before you start.

NOTICE

Chemical solvents and strong cleaners can damage the paint, metal, and plastic on your car.

Rinse the car thoroughly with cool water to remove loose dirt.

Appearance Care

Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild detergent, such as dishwashing liquid or a product made especially for car washing.

As you dry the car, inspect it for chips and scratches that could allow corrosion to start. Repair them with touch-up paint (see page 186).

Wash the car, using the water and detergent solution and a soft- bristle brush, sponge, or soft cloth. Start at the top and work your way down. Rinse frequently.

Check the body for road tar, tree sap, etc. Remove these stains with tar remover or turpentine. Rinse it off immediately so it does not harm the finish. Remember to re- wax these areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.

When you have washed and rinsed the whole exterior, dry it with a chamois or soft towel. Letting it air-dry will cause dulling and water spots.

Exterior Care

Polishes — Polishes and cleaner/ waxes can restore the shine to paint that has oxidized and lost some of its shine. They normally contain mild abrasives and solvents that remove the top layer of the finish. You should use a polish on your Honda if the finish does not have its original shine after using a wax.

Cleaning tar, insects, etc. with removers also takes off the wax. Remember to re-wax those areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.

Aluminum Wheels On the U.S. EX and Canadian EX-R models Clean your Honda's aluminum alloy wheels as you do the rest of the exterior. Wash them with the same solution, and rinse them thoroughly.

The wheels have a protective clear- coat that keeps the aluminum from corroding and tarnishing. Using harsh chemicals, including some commercial wheel cleaners, or stiff brushes can damage this clear-coat. Only use a mild detergent and soft brush or sponge to clean the wheels.

Waxing Always wash and dry the whole car before waxing it. You should wax your car, including the metal trim, whenever water sits on the surface in large patches. It should form into beads or droplets after waxing.

You should use a quality liquid or paste wax. Apply it according to the instructions on the container. In general, there are two types of products:

Waxes — A wax coats the finish and protects it from damage by exposure to sunlight, air pollution, etc. You should use a wax on your Honda when it is new.

Appearance Care

Exterior Care

Paint Touch-up Your dealer has touch-up paint to match your car's color. The color code is printed on a sticker on the driver's doorjamb. Take this code to your dealer so you are sure to get the correct color.

Appearance Care

Examine the chip or scratch closely before repairing it. If it does not go down to bare metal, clean it with soap and water and apply the touch- up paint. If it does go to the metal, apply a coat of primer first. After this dries, apply the touch-up paint. Build up the paint in the damaged area to the level of the surrounding paint. Several thin coats of paint are better than one thick coat.

TOUCH-UP PAINT

Inspect your car for chipped or scratched paint every time you wash it. Repair it as soon as possible to prevent corrosion. Use the touch-up paint on small chips and scratches. More extensive damage should be repaired by a professional.

Carpeting Vacuum the carpeting frequently to remove dirt. Ground-in dirt will make the carpet wear out faster. Periodically shampoo the carpet to keep it looking new. Use one of the foam-type carpet cleaners on the market. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner, applying it with a sponge or soft brush. Keep the carpeting as dry as possible by not adding water to the foam.

Fabric Vacuum dirt and dust out of the material frequently. For general cleaning, use a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water, letting it air dry. To clean off stubborn spots, use a commercially-available fabric cleaner. Test it on a hidden area of the fabric first, to make sure it does not bleach or stain the fabric. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner.

Vinyl Remove dirt and dust with a vacuum cleaner. Wipe the vinyl with a soft cloth dampened in a solution of mild soap and water. Use the same solution with a soft-bristle brush on more difficult spots. You can also use commercially-available spray or foam-type vinyl cleaners.

Interior Care

Leather Optional for the U.S. EX model Vacuum dirt and dust from the leather frequently. Pay particular attention to the pleats and seams. Clean the leather with a soft cloth dampened with clear water, then buff it with a clean, dry cloth. If further cleaning is needed, use a soap specifically for leather, such as saddle soap. Apply this soap with a damp, soft cloth. Wipe down and buff as described above.

Appearance Care

Interior Care

Seat Belts

METAL LOOP

If your seat belts get dirty, you can use a soft brush with a mixture of mild soap and warm water to clean them. Do not use bleach, dye, or cleaning solvents. They can weaken the belt material. Let the belts air- dry before you use the car.

Appearance Care

Dirt build-up in the metal loops of the seat belt anchors can cause the belts to retract slowly. Wipe the inside of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in isopropyl alcohol or a mixture of mild soap and warm water.

Windows Clean the windows, inside and out, with a commercially-available glass cleaner. You can also use a mixture of one part white vinegar to ten parts water. This will remove the haze that builds up on the inside of the windows. Use a soft cloth or paper towels to clean all glass and clear plastic surfaces.

NOTICE

The rear window defagger and antenna wires are bonded to the inside of the glass. Wiping vigorously up-and- down can dislodge and break these wires. When cleaning the rear window, use gentle pressure and wipe side-to- side.

Air Fresheners If you want to use an air freshener/ deodorizer in the interior of your car, it is best to use a solid type. Some liquid air fresheners contain chemi- cals that may cause parts of the interior trim and fabric to crack or discolor.

If you use a liquid air freshener, make sure you fasten it securely so it does not spill as you drive.

Two factors normally contribute to causing corrosion in your car:

1. Moisture trapped in body cavities.

Dirt and road salt that collects in hollows on the underside of the car stays damp, promoting corrosion in that area.

Many corrosion-preventive measures are built into your Honda. You can help keep your car from corroding by performing some simple periodic maintenance:

Repair chips and scratches in the paint as soon as you discover them.

2. Removal of paint and protective

coatings from the exterior and underside of the car.

Inspect and clean out the drain holes in the bottom of the doors and body.

Check the floor coverings for dampness. Carpeting and floor mats may remain damp for a long time, especially in winter. This dampness can eventually cause the floor panels to corrode.

Corrosion Protection

Use a high-pressure spray to clean the underside of your car. This is especially important in areas that use road salt in winter. It is also a good idea in humid climates and areas subject to salt air. Cars equipped with ABS have a sensor and wiring at each wheel. Be careful not to damage them.

Have the corrosion-preventive coatings on the underside of your car inspected and repaired periodically.

Appearance Care

Body Repairs

Body repairs can affect your car's resistance to corrosion. If your car needs repairs after a collision, pay close attention to the parts used in the repair and the quality of the work.

Make sure the repair facility uses genuine Honda replacement body parts. Some companies make sheetmetal pieces that seem to duplicate the original Honda body parts, but are actually inferior in fit, finish, and corrosion resistance. Once installed, they do not give the same high-quality appearance.

When reporting your collision to the insurance company, tell them you want genuine Honda parts used in the repair. Although most insurers recognize the quality of original parts, some may try to specify that the repairs be done with other available parts. You should investigate this before any repairs are begun.

Take your car to your authorized Honda dealer for inspection after the repairs are completed. He can make sure that quality materials were used, and that corrosion-preventive coatings were applied to all repaired and replaced parts.

Appearance Care

Taking Care of the Unexpected

This section covers the more- common problems that motorists experience with their cars. It gives you information about how to safely evaluate the problem and what to do to correct it. If the problem has stranded you on the side of the road, you may be able to get going again. If not, you will also find instructions on getting your car towed.

Compact Spare Tire....................... 192
Changing a Flat Tire ..................... 193
If Your Engine Won't Start........... 199
Nothing Happens....................... 199
The Starter Operates

Normally................................. 200
Jump Starting................................. 200
If Your Engine Overheats............. 202
Low Oil Pressure........................... 204
Charging System Indication......... 205
Malfunction Indicator Lamp/

Check Engine Light.................. 206
Closing the Moonroof................... 207
Fuses............................................... 208
Checking and Replacing........... 209
Towing............................................ 213

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Compact Spare Tire

Your car has a compact spare tire that takes up less space. Use this spare tire as a temporary replace- ment only. Get your regular tire repaired or replaced and put back on your car as soon as you can.

Check the inflation pressure of the compact spare tire every time you check the other tires. It should be inflated to: 420 kPa (4.2 kg/cm2, 60 psi)

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Follow these precautions whenever you are using the compact spare tire:

INDICATOR LOCATION MARK

Do not exceed 50 mph (80 km/h) under any circumstances.

This tire gives a harsher ride and less traction on some road sur- faces than the regular tire. Use greater caution while driving on this tire.

Do not mount snow chains on the compact spare.

The wheel of the compact spare tire is designed especially to fit your car. Do not use your spare tire on another car unless it is the same make and model.

TREAD WEAR INDICATOR BAR

The compact spare tire has a shorter tread life than a regular tire. Replace it when you can see the tread wear indicator bars. The replacement should be the same size and design tire, mounted on the same wheel. The compact spare tire is not designed to be mounted on a regular wheel, and the compact wheel is not designed for mounting a regular tire.

If you have a flat tire while driving, stop in a safe place to change it. Stopping in traffic or on the shoulder of a busy road is dangerous. Drive slowly along the shoulder until you get to an exit or an area to stop that is far away from the traffic lanes.

The car can easily roll off the jack, seriously injuring anyone underneath.

Follow the directions for changing a tire exactly, and never get under the car when it is supported only by the jack.

TOOL KIT

TRUNK FLOOR

Changing a Flat Tire

3. Open the trunk. Raise the trunk

floor by lifting up on the back edge.

4. Take the tool kit out of the spare

tire well.

5. Unscrew the wing bolt and take

the spare tire out of its well.

SPARE TIRE 1. Park the car on firm, level ground

JACK

away from traffic. Turn on the hazard warning lights and turn the ignition to LOCK (0).

2. Put the transmission in Park

(automatic) or Reverse (manual). Set the parking brake.

CONTINUED

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Changing a Flat Tire

6. The jack is behind a cover in the

right fender. Remove the cover by turning the handle clockwise, then pulling on the cover.

JACK

CENTER CAP

7. Turn the jack's end bracket

counterclockwise to loosen it, then remove the jack.

SCREWDRIVER

(US: EX, Canada: EX-R) Remove the center cap from the wheel with a screwdriver (not included in tool kit) or coin.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

WHEEL NUTS

EXTENSION

Changing a Flat Tire

9. Loosen the four wheel nuts 1/2

turn with the wheel wrench.

JACKING POINT

WHEEL WRENCH

10. Find the jacking point nearest the wheel you are removing. Place the jack under the jacking point. Turn the end bracket clockwise until the top of the jack contacts the jacking point. Make sure the jacking point tab is resting in the jack notch.

11. Use the extension and wheel

wrench as shown to raise the car until the flat tire is off the ground.

CONTINUED

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Changing a Flat Tire

12. Remove the wheel nuts and flat

tire. Temporarily place the flat tire on the ground with the outside surface of the wheel facing up. The outside surface contacting the ground could damage the wheel surface.

BRAKE HUB

13. Before mounting the spare tire,

wipe any dirt off the mounting surface of the wheel and hub with a cloth.

14. lPut on the spare tire. Put the

wheel nuts back on finger-tight, then tighten them in a crisscross pattern with the wheel wrench until the wheel is firmly against the hub. Do not try to tighten them fully.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Changing a Flat Tire

WING BOLT

SPACER CONE

15. Lower the car to the ground and

remove the jack.

16. Tighten the wheel nuts securely in

the same crisscross pattern. Have the wheel nut torque checked at the nearest automotive service facility. Tighten the wheel nuts to: 110 N.m (11 kg-m, 80 Ib-ft)

17. Place the flat tire face down in the

spare tire well.

18. Remove the spacer cone from the

wing bolt, turn it over, and put it back on the bolt.

19. Secure the flat tire by screwing the wing bolt back into its hole.

CONTINUED

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Changing a Flat Tire

20. Store the jack in its holder. Turn the jack's end bracket to lock it in place. Replace the cover. Store the tool kit.

21. Store the wheel cover or center

cap in the trunk. Make sure it does not get scratched or damaged.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Diagnosing why your engine won't start falls into two areas, depending on what you hear when you turn the key to START (III):

You hear nothing, or almost nothing. The engine's starter motor does not operate at all, or operates very slowly.

You can hear the starter motor operating normally, but the engine does not start up and run.

Nothing Happens or the Starter Motor Operates Very Slowly When you turn the ignition switch to START (III), you do not hear the normal noise of the engine trying to start. You may hear a clicking sound or series of clicks, or nothing at all. Check these things:

Check the transmission interlock. If you have a manual transmission, the clutch pedal must be pushed all the way to the floor or the starter will not operate. With an automatic transmission, it must be in Park or Neutral.

Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the headlights and check their brightness. If the headlights are very dim or don't light at all, the battery is discharged. See Jump Starting on page 200.

If Your Engine Won't Start

Turn the ignition switch to START (III). If the headlights do not dim, check the condition of the fuses. If the fuses are OK, there is proba- bly something wrong with the electrical circuit for the ignition switch or starter motor. You will need a qualified technician to determine the problem. (See Towing on page 213.)

If the headlights dim noticeably or go out when you try to start the engine, either the battery is dis- charged or the connections are corroded. Check the condition of the battery and terminal connec- tions (see page 161). Yo u can then try jump starting the car from a booster battery (see page 200).

Taking Care of th

e Unexpected

If Your Engine Won't Start, Jump Starting

The Starter Operates Normally In this case, the starter motor sounds normal when you turn the ignition switch to START (III), but the engine does not run.

Are you using the proper starting procedure? Refer to Starting the Engine on page 113.

Do you have fuel? Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) for a minute and watch the fuel gauge. The low fuel level warning light may not be working, so you were not reminded to fill the tank.

There may be an electrical problem, such as no power to the fuel pump. Check all the fuses (see page 208).

If you find nothing wrong, you will need a qualified technician to find the problem. See Towing on page 213.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Jump Starting If your car's battery has run down, you may be able to start the engine by using a booster battery. Although this seems like a simple procedure, there are several precautions you should take. Follow the directions closely.

A battery can explode if you do not follow the correct procedure, seriously injuring anyone nearby.

Keep all sparks, open flames, and smoking materials away from the battery.

You cannot start a Honda with an automatic transmission by pushing or pulling it.

To jump start your car:

1. Open the hood and check the

physical condition of the battery (see page 161). In very cold weather, check the condition of the electrolyte. If it seems slushy or like ice, do not try jump starting until it thaws.

NOTICE

If a battery sits in extreme cold, the electrolyte inside can freeze. Attempting to jump start with a frozen battery can cause it to rupture or explode.

2. Turn off all the electrical acces-

sories: heater, A/C, stereo system, lights, etc. Put the transmission in Neutral or Park and set the parking brake.

Jump Starting

3. Connect one jumper cable to the

positive ( +) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the positive ( +) terminal on your Honda's battery.

BOOSTER BATTERY

4. Connect the second jumper cable

to the negative (—) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the grounding strap as shown. Do not connect this jumper cable to any other part of the engine.

5. If the booster battery is in another car, have an assistant start that car and run it at a fast idle.

6. Start your car. If the starter motor

still operates slowly, check the jumper cable connections to make sure they have good metal-to- metal contact.

7. Once your car is running, discon- nect the negative cable from your car, then from the booster battery. Disconnect the positive cable from your car, then the booster battery.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

If Your Engine Overheats

The pointer of your car's tempera- ture gauge should stay in the mid- range under most conditions. It may go higher if you are driving up a long steep hill on a very hot day. If it climbs to the red mark, you should determine the reason.

NOTICE

Driving with the temperature gauge pointer at the red mark can cause serious damage to your engine.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Your car can overheat for several reasons, such as lack of coolant or a mechanical problem. The only indication may be the temperature gauge climbing to or above the red mark. Or you may see steam or spray coming from under the hood. In either case, you should take immediate action.

Steam and spray from an overheated engine can seriously scald you.

Do not open the hood if steam is coming out.

1. Safely pull to the side of the road. Put the transmission in neutral or park and set the parking brake. Turn off the heating and cooling system and all other accessories. Turn on the hazard warning indicators.

2. If you see steam and/or spray

coming from under the hood, turn off the engine.

3. If you do not see steam or spray,

leave the engine running and watch the temperature gauge. If the high heat is due to overloading (climbing a long, steep hill on a hot day with the A/C running, for example), the engine should start to cool down almost immediately. If it does, wait until the tempera- ture gauge comes down to the mid- point then continue driving.

4. If the temperature gauge stays at the red mark, turn off the engine.

5. Wait until you see no more signs of steam or spray, then open the hood.

6. Look for any obvious coolant leaks,

such as a split radiator hose. Everything is still extremely hot, so use caution. If you find a leak, it must be repaired before you continue driving (see Towing on page 213).

7. If you don't find an obvious leak,

check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank (see page 147). If the level is below the MIN mark, add coolant to half-way between the MIN and MAX marks.

8. If there was no coolant in the

reserve tank, you may also have to add coolant to the radiator. Let the engine cool down until the pointer

reaches the middle of the tempera- ture gauge, or lower, before check- ing the radiator.

Removing the radiator cap while the engine is hot can cause the coolant to spray out, seriously scalding you.

Always let the engine and radiator cool down before removing the radiator cap.

9. Using gloves or a large heavy

cloth, turn the radiator cap counterclockwise, without pushing down, to the first stop. This releases any remaining pressure in the cooling system. After the pressure releases, push down on the cap and turn it until it comes off.

If Your Engine Overheats

10. Start the engine and set the

temperature control dial to maximum. Add coolant to the radiator up to the base of the filler neck. If you do not have the proper coolant mixture available, you can add plain water. Remember to have the cooling system drained and refilled with the proper mixture as soon as you can.

11. Put the radiator cap back on

tightly. Run the engine and watch the temperature gauge. If it goes back to the red mark, the engine needs repair. (See Towing on page 213.)

12. If the temperature stays normal,

check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank. If it has gone down, add coolant to the MAX mark. Put the cap back on tightly.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

4. Start the engine and watch the oil pressure light. If the light does not go out within ten seconds, turn off the engine. There is a mechanical problem that needs to be repaired before you can continue driving. (See Towing on page 213.)

1. Safely pull off the road and shut

off the engine.

2. Let the car sit for a minute. Open

the hood and check the oil level (see page 142). Although oil level and oil pressure are not directly connected, an engine that is very low on oil can lose pressure during cornering and other driving maneuvers.

3. If necessary, add oil to bring the level back to the full mark on the dipstick (see page 142).

Low Oil Pressure

LOW OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR

The low oil pressure indicator should never come on when the engine is running. If this light flashes or stays on with the engine running, take immediate action.

NOTICE

Running the engine with low oil pressure can cause serious mechanical damage almost immediately. Turn off the engine as soon ax you can safely get the car stopped.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Charging System Indication

By eliminating as much of the electrical load as possible, you can drive several miles before the battery is too discharged to keep the engine running. Drive to a service station or garage where you can get technical assistance.

Immediately turn off all electrical accessories: radio, heater, A/C, rear defogger, cruise control, etc. Try not to use other electrically-operated controls such as the power windows. Keep the engine running and take- extra care not to stall it. Starting the engine will discharge the battery rapidly.

CHARGING SYSTEM INDICATOR

The charging system indicator should go out after the engine starts. If it comes on brightly with the engine running, the alternator is no longer charging the battery.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Malfunction Indicator Lamp/Check Engine Light

NOTICE

If you keep driving with the malfunc- tion indicator lamp/check engine light on, you can damage your car's emission controls and engine. Those repairs may not be covered by your car's warranties.

If this indicator light comes on, safely pull off the road and turn off the engine. Restart the engine and watch the indicator light. If it stays on, have your car checked by the dealer as soon as possible. Drive moderately until the dealer has inspected the problem. Avoid full- throttle acceleration and driving at high speed.

You should also have the dealer inspect your car if the indicator light comes on frequently, even though it goes off when you follow the above procedure.

MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP/ CHECK ENGINE LIGHT*

* U.S. indicator shown

If this indicator comes on while driving, there is a problem with your engine or its emission control systems. Even though you may feel no difference in your car's per- formance, it can reduce your fuel economy and cause your car to put out excessive emissions. Continued operation may cause serious engine damage.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

If the electric motor will not close the moonroof, do the following:

1. Check the fuse for the moonroof motor (see page 212). If the fuse is blown, replace it with one of the same or lower rating.

2. Try closing the moonroof. If the

new fuse blows immediately or the moonroof motor still does not operate, you can close the moonroof manually.

3. Get the tool kit out of the trunk.

Closing the Moonroof

SOCKET

ROUND PLUG

4. Use a screwdriver or coin to remove the round plug in the center of the headliner.

5. Insert the moonroof wrench into the socket behind this plug. Turn the wrench until the moonroof is fully closed.

6. Remove the wrench. Replace the

round plug.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Fuses

All the electrical circuits in your car have fuses to protect them from a short circuit or overload. These fuses are located in two or three fuse boxes.

INTERIOR

UNDERHOOD

TAB

KNOB

The interior fuse box is underneath the dashboard on the driver's side. To open, turn the knob as shown.

The underhood fuse box is located in the front of the engine compartment on the passenger's side. To open, push the tab as shown.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

ABS FUSE BOX

Cars equipped with ABS have a third fuse box for the ABS. It is in the engine compartment on the right side.

Checking and Replacing Fuses If something electrical in your car stops working, the first thing you should check for is a blown fuse. Determine from the chart on pages 211 and 212, or the diagram on the fuse box lid, which fuse or fuses control that component. Check those fuses first, but check all the fuses before deciding that is not the cause. Replace any blown fuses and check the component's operation.

1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Make sure the headlights and all other accessories are off.

2. Remove the cover from the fuse

box.

Fuses

BLOWN

3. Check each of the large fuses in

the underhood fuse box by looking through the top at the wire inside. Removing these fuses requires a Phillips-head screwdriver.

CONTINUED

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Fuses

FUSE PULLER

BLOWN

4. Check the smaller fuses in the underhood fuse box and all the fuses in the interior fuse box by pulling out each fuse with the fuse puller provided in the interior fuse box.

5. Look for a burned wire inside the fuse. If it is burned out, replace it with one of the spare fuses of the same rating or lower.

If you cannot drive the car without fixing the problem, and you do not have a spare fuse, take a fuse of the same rating or a lower rating from one of the other circuits. Make sure you can do without that circuit temporarily (such as the cigarette lighter or radio).

Taking Care of the Unexpected

If you replace the blown fuse with a spare fuse that has a lower rating, it might blow out again. This does not indicate anything wrong. Replace the fuse with one of the correct rating as soon as you can.

NOTICE

Replacing a fuse with one that has a higher rating greatly increases the chances of damaging the electrical system. If you do not have a replace- ment fuse with the proper rating for the circuit, install one with a lower rating.

6. If the replacement fuse of the

same rating blows in a short time, there is probably a serious electrical problem in your car. Leave the blown fuse in that circuit and have your car checked by a qualified technician.

INTERIOR FUSE BOX

Fuses

Spare Fuse

* : On Canadian cars

CONTINUED

Taking Care of the Unexpected

Fuses

UNDERHOOD FUSE BOX

* 1 : On Canadian cars * 2 : US: EX, Canada: EX-R

ABS FUSE BOX

Taking Care of the Unexpected

If your car needs to be towed, call a professional towing service or, if you belong to one, an organization that provides roadside assistance. Never tow your car behind another car with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous.

Emergency Towing There are three popular methods of towing a car:

Flat-bed Equipment — The operator loads your car on the back of a truck. This is the best way of trans- porting your Honda.

Wheel Lift Equipment — The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear) and lift them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on the ground.

Sling-type Equipment — The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension and the cables lift that end of the car off the ground. Your car's suspension and body can be seriously damaged if this method of towing is attempted.

If your Honda cannot be transported by flat-bed, it should be towed with the front wheels off the ground. If due to damage, your car must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, do the following:

5-speed Manual Transmission Release the parking brake. Shift the transmission to Neutral.

Automatic Transmission

Release the parking brake. Start the engine. Shift to D4, then to N. Turn off the engine.

Towing

NOTICE

Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine (automatic transmission), your car must be transported on a flat-bed.

It is best to tow the car no farther than 80 km (50 miles), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55
km/h).

NOTICE

Trying to lift or tow your car by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not designed to support the car's weight.

Taking Care of the Unexpected

The diagrams in this section give you the dimensions and capacities of your Honda, and the locations of the identification numbers. The expla- nations of several electronic and mechanical systems on your Honda are for the more technically-oriented owner.

Identification Numbers................. 216
Specifications................................. 218
Anti-lock Brake System................ 220
Tire Information............................ 221
Tire Size Designation................ 221
Wheel Size Designation............ 221
Tire Speed Ratings.................... 221
Tire Pressure Adjustment

For High Speed Driving........ 222
DOT Tire Quality Grading....... 222
Treadwear.............................. 222
Traction.................................. 223
Temperature.......................... 223

Technical Information

Emission Controls......................... 224
The Clean Air Act...................... 224
Crankcase Emission Control

System..................................... 224

Evaporative Emission Control

System..................................... 224
Exhaust Emission Controls...... 225
PGM-FI System..................... 225
Ignition Timing Control

System................................. 225

Exhaust Gas Recirculation

(EGR) System.................... 225

Three Way Catalytic

Converter............................ 225
Replacement Parts..................... 225
Three Way Catalytic Converter... 226

Technical Information

Identification Numbers

Your car has several identifying numbers located in various places.

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is the 17-digit number your Honda dealer uses to register your car for warranty purposes. It: is also necessary for licensing and insuring your car. The easiest place to find the VIN is on a plate fastened to the top of the dashboard. You can see it by looking through the windshield on the driver's side. It is also on the Certification label attached to the driver's doorjamb, and is stamped on the engine compartment bulkhead. The VIN is also provided in bar code on the Certification label.

Technical Information

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

CERTIFICATION LABEL

The Engine Number is stamped into the engine block. It is on the front.

The Transmission Number is on a label on top of the transmission.

Identification Numbers

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION NUMBER

MANUAL TRANSMISSION NUMBER

ENGINE NUMBER

Technical Information

Specifications

*1 : US: EX, Canada: EX-R *2 : US: LX, Canada: LX

(Air conditioning is optional on Canadian LX model)

Technical Information

* 1 : Including the coolant in the reserve tank and that remaining in the

engine. Reserve tank capacity: 0.6

(0.16 US gal, 0.13 Imp gal)

* 2 : Excluding the oil remaining in the engine. * 3 : US: EX, Canada: EX-R

Specifications

p a g e 159

page 211

page 212

* 1 US: LX, Canada: LX * 2 US: EX, Canada: EX-R * 3 US: LX with ABS, EX, Canada: EX-R

Technical Information

Anti-lock Brake System

The Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is standard equipment on the EX model in the U.S. and the EX-R model in Canada. It is optional on the U.S. LX model.

The ABS works by measuring how fast the wheels are turning during braking and comparing their speed. If any wheel is rotating much slower than the others (on the verge of locking up and skidding), the system reduces hydraulic pressure to that wheel's brake caliper. When that wheel's speed matches the other wheels, the system applies normal hydraulic pressure. This can take place several times per second at each wheel. You feel the ABS working as rapid pulsations in the brake pedal.

Technical Information

Each wheel has a wheel speed sensor assembly. As the wheel rotates, the sensor sends electrical pulses to the ABS control unit. The pulse frequency varies with the wheel speed.

The electrical output of the ABS control unit is connected to the modulator/solenoid unit. During braking, the ABS control unit monitors the pulse frequencies from the four wheels. When the control unit detects a wheel locking up, it energizes the appropriate solenoid in the modulator/solenoid unit. There are six solenoids: two for each front wheel, and two for the rear wheels. The energized solenoid reduces hydraulic pressure to one side of a modulator valve. This, in turn, reduces hydraulic pressure in the brake line going to the affected wheel. When that wheel speeds up because of the reduced braking effort, the control unit de-energizes

the solenoid. This builds hydraulic pressure on the modulator valve. The pressure increases in the hydraulic line to the wheel.

For the system to react quickly, the modulator/solenoid unit must have brake fluid under high pressure. This is supplied by a piston-type accumulator that is pressurized by an electric pump. A pressure-sensing switch on the accumulator controls this pump.

The control unit also contains error detection circuitry. It monitors the operation of the wheel sensors, solenoids, pump, and electronics. If the control unit detects any faults, it shuts off power to the pump motor and solenoids. The light on the instrument panel comes on. The brakes then work like a conventional system without anti-lock capabilities.

Tire Size Designation A tire's sidewall is marked with a tire size designation. You will need this information when selecting replacement tires for your car. The following explains what the letters and numbers in the tire size designation mean.

(Example tire size designation) P185/70R14 87S

P — Applicable vehicle type (tires marked with the prefix "P" are intended for use on passenger cars; however, not all tires have this marking).

185 — Tire width in millimeters.

70 — Aspect ratio. The tire's section height as a percentage of its width.

87— Load Index, a numerical code associated with the maximum load the tire can carry.

S — Speed Rating Symbol. See the speed rating chart in this section for additional information.

Wheel Size Designation Wheels are also marked with important information that you need if you ever have to replace one. The following explains what the letters and numbers in the wheel size designation mean.

(Example wheel size designation) 15 x 5-1/2 JJ

15 — Rim diameter in inches.

5-1/2 — Rim width in inches.

R — Tire construction code (Radial).

JJ — Rim contour designation.

14 — Rim diameter in inches.

Tire Information

Tire Speed Ratings The chart below shows many of the different speed ratings currently being used for passenger car tires. The speed rating symbol is part of the tire size designation on the sidewall of the tire. This symbol corresponds to that tire's designed maximum safe operating speed.

Technical Information

Be sure to readjust the pressure for normal driving speeds. You should wait until the tires are cold before adjusting the tire pressure (see page 167).

DOT Tire Quality Grading (U.S. Cars) The tires on your car meet all U.S. Federal Safety Requirements. All tires are also graded for treadwear, traction, and temperature perform- ance according to Department of Transportation (DOT) standards. The following explains these gradings.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a compara- tive rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and one half (1-1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual condi- tions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.

Tire Information

Tire Pressure Adjustment For High Speed Driving Honda strongly recommends that you not drive faster than posted speed limits and conditions allow. If you decide it is safe to drive at high speeds, be sure to adjust the cold tire pressures as shown below. If you do not adjust the tire pressure, excessive heat can build up and cause sudden tire failure.

(US: EX, Canada: LX)

(US: EX, Canada: EX-R)

Technical Information

Traction The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.

Warning: The traction grade as- signed to this tire is based on brak- ing (straight ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.

Temperature The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.

Tire Information

Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not over- loaded. Excessive speed, underinfla- tion, or excessive loading either separately or in combination, can cause heat build-up and possible tire failure.

Technical Information

Emission Controls

The burning of gasoline in your car's engine produces several byproducts. Some of these are carbon monoxide (CO), oxides of nitrogen (NOx) and hydrocarbons (HC). Gasoline evaporating from the tank also produces hydrocarbons. Controlling the production of NOx, CO, and HC is important to the environment. Under certain conditions of sunlight and climate, NOx and HC react to form photochemical "smog." Carbon monoxide does not contribute to smog creation, but it is a poisonous gas.

Technical Information

The Clean Air Act The United States Clean Air Act* sets standards for automobile emissions. It also requires that automobile manufacturers explain to owners how their emission controls work and what to do to maintain them. This section summarizes how the emission controls work. Scheduled maintenance is on page 136.

* In Canada, Honda vehicles comply with the Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (CMVSS) for Emissions valid at the time they are manufactured.

Crankcase Emission Control System Your car has a Positive Crankcase Ventilation System. This keeps gasses that build up in the engine's crankcase from going into the atmosphere. The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve routes them from the crankcase back to the intake manifold. They are then drawn into the engine and burned.

Evaporative Emission Control System As gasoline evaporates in the fuel tank, an evaporative emission control canister filled with charcoal adsorbs the vapor. It is stored in this canister while the engine is off. After the engine is started and warmed up, the vapor is drawn into the engine and burned during driving.

Exhaust Emission Controls The exhaust emission controls include four systems: PGM-FI, Ignition Timing Control, Exhaust Gas Recirculation and Three Way Catalytic Converter. These four systems work together to control the engine's combustion and minimize the amount of HC, CO, and NOx that comes out the tailpipe. The exhaust emission control systems are separate from the crankcase and evaporative emission control systems.

PGM-FI System The PGM-FI System uses sequential multiport fuel injection. It has three subsystems: Air Intake, Engine Control, and Fuel Control. The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses various sensors to determine how much air is going into the engine. It then controls how much fuel to inject under all operating conditions.

Ignition Timing Control System This system constantly adjusts the ignition timing, reducing the amount of HC, CO and NOx produced.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system takes some of the exhaust gas and routes it back into the intake manifold. Adding exhaust gas to the air/fuel mixture reduces the amount of NOx produced when the fuel is burned.

Three Way Catalytic Converter The three way catalytic converter is in the exhaust system. Through chemical reactions, it converts HC, CO, and NOx in the engine's exhaust to carbon dioxide (C0
(N ), and water vapor.

), dinitrogen

Emission Controls

Replacement Parts The emission control systems are designed and certified to work to- gether in reducing emissions to levels that comply with the Clean Air Act. To make sure the emissions remain low, you should use only new genuine Honda replacement parts or their equivalent for repairs. Using lower quality parts may increase the emissions from your car.

The emissions control systems are covered by warranties separate from the rest of your car. Read your warranty manual for more informa- tion.

Technical Information

Keep the engine tuned-up.

Have your car diagnosed and repaired if it is misfiring, back- firing, stalling, or otherwise not running properly.

Three Way Catalytic Converter

The three way catalytic converter contains precious metals that serve as catalysts, promoting chemical reactions to convert the exhaust gasses without affecting the metals. The catalytic converter is referred to as a three-way catalyst, since it acts on HC, CO, and NOx. A replacement unit must be an original Honda part or its equivalent.

The three way catalytic converter must operate at a high temperature for the chemical reactions to take place. It can set on fire any com- bustible materials that come near it. Park your car away from high grass, dry leaves, or other flammables.

Technical Information

THREE WAY CATALYTIC CONVERTE R

A defective three way catalytic converter contributes to air pollution, and can impair your engine's per- formance. Follow these guidelines to protect your car's three way catalytic converter.

Always use unleaded gasoline. Even a small amount of leaded gasoline can contaminate the catalyst metals, making the three way catalytic converter ineffective.

Warranty and Customer Relations

Warranty Coverages ...................... 228
Customer Relations

Information ................................. 229
U.S. Zone Office Map..................... 230
Canada Zone Office Map ............... 231
Reporting Safety Defects ............... 232
Authorized Manuals ...................... 233

Warranty and Customer Relations

Warranty Coverages

U.S. Cars Your new Honda is covered by these warranties:

Seat Belt Limited Warranty — a seat belt that fails to function properly is covered for the useful life of the car.

New Car Limited Warranty — covers your new car, except for the battery, emissions control systems and accessories, against defects in materials and workmanship.

Rust Perforation Limited Warranty — all exterior body panels are covered for rust-through from the inside for the specified time period with no mileage limit.

Emissions Control Systems Defects Warranty and Emissions Performance Warranty — these two warranties cover your car's emissions control systems. Time, mileage, and coverage are condi- tional. Please read the warranty manual for exact information.

Original Equipment Battery Limited Warranty — this warranty gives up to 100% credit toward a replacement battery.

Accessory Limited Warranty — Genuine Honda Accessories are covered under this warranty. Time and mileage limits depend on the type of accessory and other factors. Please read your warranty manual for details.

Replacement Parts Limited Warranty — covers all Genuine Honda replacement parts against defects in materials and workman- ship.

Replacement Battery Limited Warranty — provides prorated coverage for a replacement battery purchased from a Honda dealer.

Replacement Muffler Lifetime Limited Warranty — provides coverage for as long as the pur- chaser of the muffler owns the car.

Restrictions and exclusions apply to all these warranties. Please read the 1995 Honda Warranties booklet that came with your car for precise information on warranty coverages. Your Honda's original tires are covered by their manufacturer. Tire warranty information is in a separate booklet.

Canada Cars Please refer to the 1995 Warranty and Maintenance Guide that came with your car.

Warranty and Customer Relations

Customer Relations Information

Honda dealership personnel are trained professionals. They should be able to answer all your questions. If you encounter a problem that your dealership does not solve to your satisfaction, please discuss it with the dealership's management. The Service Manager or General Manager can help. Almost all problems are solved in this way.

If you are dissatisfied with the decision made by the dealership's management, contact your Honda Customer Relations Zone Office. Refer to the U.S. and Canadian Zone Office maps on the following pages.

When you call or write, please give us this information:

Vehicle Identification Number (see page 216) Name and address of the dealer who services your car Date of purchase Mileage on your car Your name, address, and tele- phone number A detailed description of the problem Name of the dealer who sold the car to you

Warranty and Customer Relations

U.S. Zone Office Map

The addresses and telephone numbers are subject to change. If you cannot reach your Zone office, ask your Honda dealer for the current information.

Customer Relations

Western Zone P.O. Box 2260

700 Van Ness Avenue Torrance, California 90509-2260
(310) 781-4565

Northwestern Zone P.O. Box 20186

12439 N.E. Airport Way Portland, Oregon 97220
(503) 256-0943
(also includes Alaska and Hawaii)

South Central Zone 4529 Royal Lane

Irving, Texas 75063
(214) 929-5481

Central Zone 101 South Stanfield Road

Troy, Ohio 45373
(513) 332-6250

Mid-Atlantic Zone 902 Wind River Ln., Suite 200