1997 GMC Sierra Owners Manual

Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Air Conditioning Specifications

Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

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Delco

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.

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Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your GM dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System” in the Diesel Engine Supplement. For vehicles with gasoline engines, please read this. Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. At a minimum, it should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared to other gasolines.

Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood tune-up label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on andor your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadlenyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not his fuel contains " T . General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

I NOTICE: (Continued)

metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn't be covered under your warranty. Fuels in Foreign Countries -- Gasoline Engines If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn't be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you'll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you're going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don't use it. It can corrode NOTICE: (Continued)

General Motors International Product Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L 1 H 8P7

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Filling Your Tank

For vehicles equipped with the “VORTEC” 5000,5700, 7400 and 6.5L engines, the fuel cap is located on the left side of your vehicle.

For vehicles equipped with the “VORTEC” 4300 engine, the fuel cap is located on the left side of your vehicle.

On a chassis-cab model, refuel the front tank first, or in instances when only a partial fuel fill is desired. An automatic transfer mechanism will maintain approximately equal fuel levels in both tanks, so no switching is required by the operator. .- ‘ P

’ION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

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7400 and 6.5L engines, hang the cap inside the fuel filler door.

While refueling vehicles equipped with the “VORTEC” 4300 engine, let the cap hang by the tether below the fuel filler neck.

To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

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/1\ CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap.

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

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Checking Things Under the Hood

I A CAUTION:

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary engine fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

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Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline or diesel fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

Hood Release

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle.

Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the secondary hood release, located just to the passenger’s side of the center of the grill. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close

it firmly.

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“VORTEC” 4300,5000,5700 Engine When you lift up the hood you’ll see:

“VORTEC” 5700 engine shown, locations for other engines similar.

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A. Battery B. Air Cleaner C. Radiator Cap D. Coolant Recovery Tank E. Air Filter Restriction Indicator F. Engine Oil Dipstick G. Automatic Transmission Dipstick

H. Fan I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir J. Engine Oil Fill K. Brake Fluid Reservoir L. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir M. Fuse/Relay Center

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3

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A. Battery B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Air Cleaner D. Radiator Cap E. Air Filter Restriction Indicator E Engine Oil Dipstick G. Automatic Transmission Dipstick

H. Engine Oil Fill I. Fan J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir K. Brake Fluid Reservoir L. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir M. FuseRelay Center

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Noise Control System The following information relates to compliance with Federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,OOO lbs. (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your Warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States. Tampering With Noise Control System Prohibited Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof: I. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person,

other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or

2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element

of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation: 0 Removal of the noise shields or underhood insulation. Engine: 0 Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if

equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.

Fan and Drive: 0 Removal of fan clutch (if equipped) or rendering

clutch inoperative.

0 Removal of the fan shroud (if equipped). Air Intake:

Removal of the air cleaner silencer.

0 Reversing the air cleaner cover. Exhaust: 0 Removal of the muffler and/or resonator.

Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe clamps.

Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine Oil (Diesel Engine)” in the Diesel Engine Supplement. It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

The engine oil dipstick has a yellow ring handle and is located on the passenger’s side of the engine. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

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I

I NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The engine oil fill cap for the “VORTEC” 4300, 5000 and 5700 engines are located on the driver’s side engine valve cover.

1 What Kind of Oil to Use I Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by

looking for the “Starbuk” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

.I

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.

The engine oil fill cap for the “VORTEC” 7400 engine is located at the front of the engine. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines. You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

RECOMMENDED SAE YlSCOSlTT GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAL VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

HOT

WEATHER

LWK Fm THIS SYMBOL

SAE 5w-30 PREFERRED

COLD

WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 2ow-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (- 18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29”C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.

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Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity maintenance schedule:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently. You frequently tow a trailer. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first.

If none of them is true, use the long triphighway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner, Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Air Cleaner (Gasoline Engines)

The air cleaner assembly has an indicator that lets you know when the air filter is dirty and needs to be serviced. The indicator is located in the air intake tube between the air cleaner and the engine.

Your air cleaner is located between the battery and coolant recovery tank.

See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index to determine when to check the indicator. If the area inside the clear section of the indicator is green, no air filter service is required. When the area inside the indicator is orange and CHANGE AIR FILTER appears, the filter should be replaced.

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..

To remove the air filter, unhook the retaining clips and remove the cover. Lift the filter and the connected duct out of the air cleaner housing. Hold the duct and remove the filter by both pulling and twisting the filter away from the duct. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible. Clean the filter sealing surface of the duct and the filter housing.

Install the new filter by pushing it all the way to the stop on the duct. Install the duct and the filter into the air cleaner housing. Make sure that the duct fits properly into the housing. Install the cover and fasten the two retaining clips. After the air filter is properly serviced, the indicator should be reset. Push the button on top of the indicator to reset it to the green (clean) filter zone.

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Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index.

Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can cause you OF others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner off.

I NOTICE:

If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle’s CVWR is over 8,600 or if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. When doing frequent trailer towing. Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 and you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). 0 At high speed for quite a while. 0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. 0 While pulling a trailer.

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To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200 "F (82°C to 93°C). Checking Transmission Fluid Hot Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F ( 10°C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.

Checking Transmission Fluid Cold A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F ( 10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

Checking the Fluid Hot or Cold

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P).

0 With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

0 Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

1. The red transmission dipstick handle is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger's side. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don ’t ove@ZZ.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON-111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “HOW to Check.”

0 When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case. Then, follow these steps:

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of

the filler plug hole.

3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch system in your vehicle is self-adjusting. A slight amount of play (114 inch to 1/2 inch or 6 mm to 12 mm) in the pedal is normal. It isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your clutch fluid. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

When to Check and What to Use

y k

Refer to the Maintenance I Schedule, Owner Checks and Services, to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

How to Check The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

C3 (3500 HD) Trucks Equipped with Dana Rear Axle Additional rear axle scheduled maintenance is required on 3500 HD models equipped with Dana rear axles when they are driven under the following conditions:

Extreme loading (at or near GVWR) or trailer towing, and: Operation above 45 mph (70 km/h) for extended periods of time.

Vehicles used in any of these conditions require the rear axle lubricant be changed every 30,000 miles (50 OOO km). Fluid capacity is 4.12 quarts (3.9 L). Four-wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant.

If the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. If the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with new DEX-COOL@ engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL@ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

A 50/50 mixture of water and the proper coolant for your vehicle will: 0 Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). 0 Give boiling protection up to 265 “F (1 29°C).

Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature.

0 Let the warning gages work as they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@(silicate-free) coolant. is added to If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ the system, premature engine, heater core or engine coolant will require change sooner -- at radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ covered by your new vehicle warranty.

is not

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half DEX-COOL’ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

A CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Checking Coolant If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Checking Coolant” in the Diesel Engine Supplement.

The coolant recovery tank is located on the passenger’s side at the rear corner of the engine compartment. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the HOT mark, or a little higher.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

A CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the allow steam and engine and radiator are hot can scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator.

Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

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Radiator Pressure Cap (Gasoline Engine)

NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended.

The radiator pressure cap must be tightly installed with the arrows on the cap lined up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

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Power Steering Fluid

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

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NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.

So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme ll@ (GM Part No. 12377967). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

' A CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Checking Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the window on the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn't, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above MIN and below the top of the window.

6-36

NOTICE:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear If you have a C 3500 HD model, it has four-wheel disc brakes without wear indicators. If you ever hear a brake rubbing noise, have the brake linings inspected. If your pickup is not a C 3500 HD model, it has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes.

Disc brake pads (except C 3500 HD models) have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. If you have rear drum brakes, they don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer. work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Every new vehicle has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

25 days or more,

A CA“T1ON:

Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index for the proper types of bulbs to use. Halogen Bulbs

-N:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

Headlamps Sealed Beam Lamps

1. Remove the

four screws from the headlamp retainer.

2. Pull the headlamp out and remove the retainer.

4. Plug in the new headlamp and put it in place. 5. Install the retainer to the headlamp and tighten

the screws.

6-40

Composite Headlamps

1. Remove the two screws

at the top of the radiator support.

4. Turn the bulb

counterclockwise and remove it.

2. Pull the headlamp lens assembly out. 3. Unplug the electrical connector.

5. Put the new bulb into the lens assembly and turn it to

the right until it is tight.

6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp lens assembly back into the

vehicle. Install and tighten the two screws.

Front lhm Signal Lamps (Sealed Beam Headlamps)

1. Remove the two screws

at the inside edge of the parking/turn signal lamp assembly.

4. Pull the socket out of the

lamp assembly.

2. Remove the lamp assembly by swinging it out from the inside edge and sliding it out at the outside edge. 3. Squeeze the tab on the side of the lamp socket while

turning the socket counterclockwise.

5. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it counterclockwise

and remove it from the socket.

6. Put the new bulb into the socket, gently press in on

the bulb and turn it to the right until it is tight.

7. Put the socket back into the lamp assembly and turn

it to the right until it locks.

8. Put the parkinghum signal lamp assembly back into

the vehicle and tighten the screws.

6-42

Front 'hrn Signal Lamps (Composite Headlamps)

1. Remove the screws and take out the parkingkurn signal lamp assembly.

2. Squeeze the tab on the side of the lamp socket while

turning the socket counterclockwise.

4. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it counterclockwise

and remove it from the socket.

5. Put the new bulb into the socket, gently press in on

the bulb and turn it to the right until it is tight.

6. Put the socket back into the lamp assembly and turn

it to the right until it locks.

7. Put the parkinghurn signal lamp assembly back into

the vehicle and tighten the screws.

Fender Marker Lamps (Dual Rear Wheel Pickup Models)

1. Remove the screws and

take the fender marker assembly out of the fender.

. .

, .

.. ..

. .

2. Turn the bulb socket

counterclockwise and remove it from the lens assembly.

3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it

is tight.

5. Put the socket back into the lens assembly and turn it

clockwise to tighten it.

6. Replace the lens and tighten the screws.

6-44

Sidemarker Lamps

1. Remove the screws and pull out the parkinghum signal lamp assembly.

3. Pull the bulb straight out

of the socket.

2. Reach through the opening and turn the sidemarker

bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it.

4. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it

is tight.

5. Put the socket back into the sidemarker assembly

and turn it clockwise to tighten it.

6. Replace the parkinghurn signal lamp assembly and

tighten the screws.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)

2. Pull the old bulb straight out of the socket.

4. Replace the lens and tighten the screws.

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Roof Marker Lamps 1. Remove the screws and lift off the lens. 2. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 3. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it

is tight.

4. Replace the lens and tighten the screws. Tailgate Marker Lamps 1. Use a screwdriver to gently pry the lensbulb

assembly from the lens holder.

2. Unplug the lensbulb assembly at the connector wire. 3. Plug in a new lensbulb assembly and push the

connector wire into the hole in the tailgate.

4. Snap the lensbulb assembly into the lens holder. Taillamps (Pickup Models) 1. Open the tailgate.

2. Remove the two rear lamp assembly screws near the tailgate latch and pull out the lamp assembly.

3. Remove the screws

from the bulb retainer and take it off the lamp assembly.

4. Pull the old bulb straight

out of the socket.

Taillamps (Chassis Cab Models) 1. Using your hands, peel the rubber seal away from

the lens.

2. Lift the lens off the

lamp assembly.

5. Put in a new bulb and push it in until it is tight. 6. Replace the bulb retainer. 7. Replace the rear lamp assembly and tighten

the screws.

8. Close the tailgate.

3. Slide the socket out of the lamp assembly.

6-48

4. Push in gently on

the bulb, turn it counterclockwise and remove it from the socket.

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement For proper type and length, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly:

i”

I A

5. Put in a new bulb and, pushing in gently, turn it

clockwise until it is tight.

6. Put the socket back in the lamp assembly and replace

the lens and lens seal.

1. Lift the wiper arm and rotate the blade until it is

facing away from the windshield.

2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly

toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.

3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.

your GM Warranty booklet for details. -

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see

A CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. 0 Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

6-50

0 Underinflated tires pose the same danger as

overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

0 Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden

impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. 0 Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Inflation -- Tire Pressure

The Certificationmire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, or on the incomplete vehicle document in the cab, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). You can operate some vehicles at reduced inflation pressures only when you’ll be carrying reduced loads. On those vehicles, the minimum cold inflation pressures for a typical reduced load are printed on the Improved Ride Tire Pressure label located on the driver’s door. Weigh the vehicle to find the load on each tire and see the label for the minimum cold inflation pressures for that load.

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat

0 Tire overloading

Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy.

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards.

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When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, also see “Dual Tire Operation” later in this section.

6-52

The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

FRT

FRT

If your vehicle has single rear wheels, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires. If your vehicle has front tires with different load ranges or tread designs (such as all season vs. odoff road) than the rear tires, don’t rotate your tires front to rear.

n

111 V

1 1 1

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels and the load range or tread design for your front tires is different from your rear tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here when rotating your tires.

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels and the and tread design for your front tires is the same as your rear tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires.

load range

The dual tires are rotated as a pair, and the inside rear tires become the outside rear tires. When you install dual wheels, be sure the vent holes in the inner and outer wheels on each side are lined up. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certificatiomire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)

6-54

When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: 0 You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

0 You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

0 The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep

enough to show cord or fabric.

0 The tire has a bump, bulge or split. 0 The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Dual Tire Operation When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,OOO and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 OOO km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index. The outer tire on a dual wheel setup generally wears faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically. If you’re going to be doing a lot of driving on high-crown roads, you can reduce tire wear by adding 5 psi (35 kPa) to the tire pressure in the outer tires. Be sure to return to the recommended pressures when no longer driving under those conditions. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the CertificationEire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is badly underinflated, the tire can overheat. An overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire. You or others could be injured. Be sure all tires (including the spare, if any) are properly inflated.

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires.

While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half ( 1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.

Traction -- A, B, C

The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straightahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.

Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.

Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your GM dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

I a CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

I NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles ( 160, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque’’ in the Index. 6-58

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

Used Replacement Wheels

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Tire Chains

I NOTICE:

If your vehicle has dual wheels or P26975R16 size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance.

NOTICE: (Continued)

NOTICE: (Continued)

Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires. If you don’t have dual wheels or if you have a tire size other than P265175R16, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Don’t use chains on the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:

Gasoline Benzene Naphtha

0 Carbon Tetrachloride 0 Acetone 0 Paint Thinner

Turpentine Lacquer Thinner

0 Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

6-59

Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: 0 Alcohol

Laundry Soap

0 Bleach

Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or leather with a clean, damp cloth. Your GM dealer has two cleaners, a solvent-type spot lifter and a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. Do not use them on vinyl or leather. Here are some cleaning tips: 1. Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. 2. Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. 3. Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.

4. Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area

only. If you use them, don’t saturate the stained area.

5. If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire

area immediately or it will set.

Using Foam-Type Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask

surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.

3. Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner following the

directions on the container label.

4. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t

saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge

to remove the suds.

6. Rinse the section with a clean, wet sponge. 7. Wipe off what’s left with a slightly damp paper towel

or cloth.

8. Dry it immediately with a blow dryer. 9. Wipe with a clean cloth.

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Using Solvent-Type Cleaner on Fabric First, see if you have to use solvent-type cleaner at all. Some spots and stains will clean off better with just water and mild soap. If you need to use a solvent: 1.

Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with a clean, dull knife or scraper. Use very little cleaner, light pressure and clean cloths (preferably cheesecloth). Cleaning should start at the outside of the stain, “feathering” toward the center. Keep changing to a clean section of the cloth. When you clean a stain from fabric, immediately dry the area with a blow dryer to help prevent a cleaning ring.

2.

3. 4.

Fabric Protection Your vehicle has upholstery and carpet that has been treated with Scotchgard” Fabric Protector, a 3M product. It protects fabrics by repelling oil and water, which are the carriers of most stains. Even with this protection, you still need to clean your upholstery and carpet often to keep it looking new. Further information on cleaning is available by calling 1-800-433-3296 (in Minnesota, 1-800-642-6 167). Special Cleaning Problems Greasy or Oily Stains Stains caused by grease, oil, butter, margarine, shoe polish, coffee with cream, chewing gum, cosmetic creams, vegetable oils, wax crayon, tar and asphalt can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Follow the solvent-type instructions described earlier. Shoe polish, wax crayon, tar and asphalt will stain if left on a vehicle’s seat fabric. They should be removed as soon as possible. Be careful, because the cleaner will dissolve them and may cause them to spread.

6-61

Non-Greasy Stains Stains caused by catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, wine, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the foam-type instructions

described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a waterhaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. If needed, clean lightly with solvent-type cleaner.

Combination Stains Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry. 3. If a stain remains, clean it with solvent-type cleaner.

Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. 0 Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You

may have to do it more than once.

0 Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you

don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinylAeather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. 0 For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your

dealer for this product.

0 Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

0 Soiled leather should be cleaned immediately. If

dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

6-62

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

A CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Glass Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner (GM Part No. 1050427) or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass.

Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield (non-scratching glass cleaning Cleaner, Bon powder), GM Part No. 1050011 or equivalent. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. to the wiper blades Grime from the windshield will stick and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.

A m i @

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Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.) Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s frnish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Use liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soaps. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

Cleaning Exterior LampsLenses Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow the instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Your GM manufactured vehicle may have a “basecoatklearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoatklearcoat paint finish.

NOTICE:

Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoatklearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.

Aluminum or Chrome Wheels (If Equipped) Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. You may use chrome polish on chrome wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.

Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.

NOTICE:

~~

When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish.

Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.

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Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditiow &n cr&ite a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first. This applies only to materials manufactured and sold by General Motors. Bodies, body conversions or equipment not made or sold by General Motors are not covered.

Appearance Care Materials Chart

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Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the inside of the glove box. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:

111 111 111111 II SAMPLE4UXVM072675

E N G I N E A 7 f 1 ASSEMBLY

IS1

CODE MODEL YEAR

PLANT

your VIN, the model designation,

0 paint information and

a list of all production options and special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.

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Electrical System Add-on Electrical Equipment

NOTICE:

Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.

Headlamps The headlamp wiring is protected by an internal circuit breaker. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to go on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away. Windshield Wipers The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.

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Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible thermal links. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have