1995 GMC Sierra Owners Manual

unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don‘t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Air Cleaner

To avoid the possibility of un-filtered air being drawn into the engine, make sure the air cleaner cover is o n straight and the wing nuts are properly tightened. If there is an arrow on the air cleaner cover, it should point to the front of the engine. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

A CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engjne backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner off.

I NOTICE:

If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

To remove the air cleaner filter on a gasoline engine or a 6.5 liter naturally aspirated diesel engine, turn the wing nuts to the left. Remove the cover and change the filter.

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To remove the air cleaner filter on a 6.5 liter turbocharged diesel engine, first remove the rubber elbow. Remember to observe the caution about turbocharger blades on the rubber elbow.

Then, unhook the cover retaining clips and push the rear of the cover toward the engine.

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See "Scheduled Maintenance Services'' in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading. the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). To check transmission fluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures. To check transmission fluid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (IOOC), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

To check the fluid hot or cold

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a

clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out

again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all

the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick

in place.

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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a int. Don ’t overfill. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON -111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

0 After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to

Check.”

0 When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all

the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this. done at your GM dealer Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.

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Then, follow these steps:

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole. 3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the

fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. A slight amount of play (1/4 inch to 1/2 inch) in the pedal is normal.

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When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and d for the proper fluid.

See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

How to Check The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See ”Scheduled Maintenance Services’‘ in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. C3 (3500 H.D.) Trucks Equipped with Dana Rear Axle Additional rear axle scheduled maintenance is required on 3500 H.D. models equipped with Dana rear axles when they are driven under the following conditions:

0 Extreme loading (at or near GVWR) or trailer towing, and:

Operation above 45 mph for extended periods of time

Vehicles used i n any of these conditions require the rear axle lubricant (SAE 8OW-90 - GL-5) be changed every 3 months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first. To reduce required maintenance, SAE 75W-140 synthetic gear lubricant may be used. With the use of synthetic SAE 75W-140 lubricant, the fluid change intervals may be increased to 30,000 miles. Before using SAE 75W-140, it is important to drain and flush the axle with clean mineral based (non-synthetic) axle lubricant. Fluid capacity is 4.12 qts. (3.9L). Four- Wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication.

Transfer Case

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants”

in the Index.

Front Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the in lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant.

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If the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. If the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch ( 12 mm) below the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your vehicle will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C).

0 Give boiling protection up to 262°F (128°C).

Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning gages work as they should.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half cleun water (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 6038-M,” which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to “GM Specification 6038-M.” Use GM Coolant Supplement (Sealer) with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this mixture. you don’t need to add anything else.

A CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and a proper antifreeze.

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NOTICE: If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

Some conditions. such as air trapped in the cooling system. can affect the coolant level i n thc radiator. Check the coolant level when the engine is cold and follow the steps under “Adding Coolant“ for the proper way to add coolant. If you have to add coolant more than lour timcs a ycar, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Adding Coolant - Gasoline Engine

The coolant reco\wy tank is located on the passenger side a t the rear comer of the engine compartment.

To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the HOT mark, or a little higher.

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To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tank.

A CAUTION:

a r n i n g the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

A CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Adding Coolani - Diesel Engine

The coolant surge tank is located on the passenger side at the rear corner of the engine compartment.

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To Check Coolant

A CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.

When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark, or a little higher.

If this light comes on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix ut the surge t m k , but only when the engine is cool. If the surge tank is empty, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index for the proper fill procedure.

A CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is tight.

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Radiator Pressure Cap - Gasoline Engine

The radiator pressure cap must be tightly installed with the arrows on the cap lined up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

NOTICE: Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator Surge Tank Pressure Cap - Diesel Engine The surge tank pressure cap must be tightly installed with the arrows on the cap lined up with the top tube of the coolant surge tank.

filler neck.

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NOTICE: Your surge tank pressure cap is a unique 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap for use with surge tank cooling systems only. It must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the top tube of the coolant surge tank.

Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended. Power Steering Fluid

flow of coolant through the

How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. Add enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

it. Then

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What to Add Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of' tluid to use See "Recommended Fluids and Lubricants" i n the Index.

NOTICE: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

the proper

Hydro-Boost Brake System (Hydraulic Pump) The power steering pump is also used as the Hydro-boost pump. Refer to "Power Steering System'' in this section when checking fluid level or adding fluid. Windshield Washer Fluid

What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manuhcturer's instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature m a y fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

To Add

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

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NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

0 Fill your washer fluid tank only 3/4 full when it’s very cold.

if it is This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank completely full.

0 Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It

can damage your washer system and paint.

Brake Master Cylinder Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in your master cylinder might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn‘t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add

6-42

(or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake

hydraulic system. A CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

To Check Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the windows on the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid levels should be above MIN. If they aren’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the levels are above MIN and below the top of each window.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid - such as (GM Part No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a Delco Supreme 11 sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.

NOTICE:

Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. If you have a C 3500 HD model, it has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

I A CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. If you have rear drum brakes, they don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake d r u m should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

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Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modeffl VEShicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your vehicle does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in - be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don't, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you've come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Front Shock Absorbers The front shock absorbers of your vehicle do many things. They help the vehicle ride smoothly and also control the travel of the suspension system. When the shock absorbers are serviced, any replacement shock absorbers must be the same as the original equipment shock absorbers in both extended length and strength.

I NOTICE:

If you use shock absorbers that are not the same as the original shock absorbers, the shock absorbers or suspension system could be damaged.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Inserts

To replace the windshield wiper blade insert, lift the wiper arm and rotate the blade until it is facing away from the windshield.

Unlatch the end of the insert from the holding clips. Remove the insert and slide a new one in place. Make sure the blade is secured in the clips. Air Conditioning Every now and then have your dealership check your air conditioning system to be sure it has not lost any cooling ability. If you think the system is not working properly, have your dealership check it out as soon as possi bleb The air conditioning will not work when the temperature is below 40°F (4°C). Fluid Leak Check After the vehicle has been parked for a while, inspect the surface under the vehicle for water, oil, fuel or other fluids. Water dripping from the air conditioning system after it has been used is normal. If you notice fuel leaks or fumes, the causes should be found and corrected at once. Lock Cylinders To be sure your locks operate properly, they must be lubricated. Your vehicle’s maintenance schedule will tell you how often to lubricate them. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for the proper lubricant to use. You should not use penetrating oils because they could wash out the factory installed lubricant and cause the lock to bind. De-icers which contain alcohol could also wash away the lubricant, so be sure to lubricate the lock after using a de-icer of this type.

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Battery Every new GM vehicle has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom@ battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more. take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

A CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting’’ in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs. be sure that a l l the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running.

Sealed Beam Headlamps

I . Remove the four screws from the headlamp retainer.

2. Pull the headlamp

out and remove the retainer.

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3. Unplug and remove the headlamp.

4. Plug in the new

headlamp and put it in place. 5. Install the

retainer to the headlamp and tighten the screws.

Halogen Bulbs A CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Take special care when handling and disposing of halogen bulbs.

if you

NOTICE: Avoid touching the bulb or letting it come in contact with anything damp. Oil from your skin or moisture on the bulb can cause the bulb to explode when it contact with the bulb, clean it with alcohol or degreaser and wipe the bulb dry.

is turned on. If either comes in

a suitable

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Composite Headlamps

1. Remove the two screws at the top of the radiator support.

2. Pull the headlamp

lens assembly out.

1 3. Unplug the

electrical connector.

4. TLH-II the bulb to

the left and remove it.

5. Put the new bulb in the lens assembly and turn it to the right until it is

tight.

6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp lens assembly back into the vehicle. Install and

tighten the two screws.

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Front Parkingnurn Signal Lamps with Sealed Beam Headiamps

1. Remove the two

screws at the inside edge of the parkinghrn signal lamp assembly.

2. Remove the lamp assembly by swinging it out from the inside edge and

sliding it out at the outside edge.

3. Squeeze the tab on the side of the lamp socket while turning the socket to the left.

4. Pull the socket out of the lamp assembly.

5. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it t o the left and remove it from the

socket.

6. Put the new bulb in the socket, gently press in on the bulb and turn it to

the right until it is tight.

7. Put the socket back into the lamp assembly and turn it to the right until

it locks.

8. Put the parking/turn signal lamp assembly back inlo the vehicle and

tighten the screws.

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Front Parkingflurn Signal Lamps with Composite Headlamps

1. Remove the

screws and take out the parkinghum signal lamp assembly.

2. Squeeze the tab on the side of the lamp socket while turning the socket to the left.

3. Pull the socket out: of the lamp assembly.

4. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it to the left and remove it from the socket.

5. Put the new bulb in the socket, gently press in on the bulb and turn it to

the right until it is tight.

6. Put the socket back into the lamp assembly and turn it socket to the

right until it locks.

7. Put the parkinghurn signal lamp assembly back into the vehicle and

tighten the screws.

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Side Marker Lamps with Sealed Beam and Composite Headlamps

1. Remove the

screws and pull out the parkinghum signal lamp assembly.

2. Reach through

the opening and turn the side marker bulb socket to the left and remove it.

3. Pull the bulb

straight out of the socket.

4. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight.

5. Put the socket back into the side marker assembly and

turn it to the

right to tighten it.

6. Replace the parking/turn signal lamp assembly and tighten the screws.

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Fender Marker Lamps - Dual Rear Wheel Pickup Models

4 screws and take

1. Remove the

er

the fender mark assembly out of the fender.

I 2. Turn the bulb socket to the left and remove it from the lens assembly.

3. Pull the bulb

straight out of the socket.

3. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight. 5. Put the socket back into the lens assembly and turn it to the right to

tighten it.

6. Replace the lens and tighten the screws.

Tailgate Marker Lamps I. Use a screwdriver to gently pry the lens/bulb assembly from the lens

holder.

2. Unplug the lens/bulb assembly at the connector wire. 3. Plug in a new lens/bulb assembly and push the connector wire into the

hole in the tailgate.

4. Snap the lens/bulb assembly into the lens holder.

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Roof Marker Lamps

1. Remove the screws and lift off the lens. 2. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 3. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight. 4. Replace the lens and tighten the screws.

Cargo LampKenter High Mount Stoplamp (CHMSL)

1. Remove the

screws and lift off the lens.

2. Pull the old bulb straight out of the socket.

.. . . .

LI

3. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight.

4. Replace the lens

and tighten the screws.

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Rear Lamps - Pickup Models

1. Open the tailgate. 2. Remove the two

rear lamp assembly screws near the tailgate latch and pull out the lamp assembly.

3. Remove the

screws from the bulb retainer and take it off the lamp assembly.

4. Pull the old bulb straight out of the socket.

5. Put in a new bulb

and push it in until it is tight. 6. Replace the bulb

retainer.

7. Replace the rear lamp assembly and tighten the screws. 8. Close the tailgate.

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Rear Lamps - Chassis Cab Models

1. Using your

hands, peel the rubber seal away from the lens. 2. Lift the lens off

the lamp assembly.

3. Slide the socket out of the lamp assembly.

4. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it to the left and remove it from the socket.

5. Put in a new bulb

and, pushing in gently, turn it to the right until it is tight.

6. Put the socket back i n the lamp assembly and replace the lens and lens

seal.

Exhaust System To help prevent damage to your exhaust system, do not continue to drive your vehicle if you notice:

0 Engine misfiring 0 Loss of performance 0 Exhaust system components hanging lower than normal 0 Loud exhaust system noises 0 Other unusual operating conditions

Have your engine and exhaust system serviced regularly.

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Three- Way Catalytic Converter (Gasoline Engines) Your vehicle’s three-way catalytic converter is designed to reduce the pollutants in your vehicle‘s exhaust. Use only unleaded fuel in your vehicle. If you use leaded fuel, you could damage your three-way catalytic converter and other engine components.

Oxidation Catalytic Converter (Diesel Engines) Your vehicle’s oxidation catalytic converter is designed to reduce the particulates in your vehicle‘s exhaust. If your vehicle’s oxidation catalytic converter ever needs to be replaced, it must be replaced with an oxidation converter intended for use with diesel engines only.

Engine Control Module System

Gasoline Engines This system has an oxygen sensor (OS) that helps keep your engine’s air-fuel mixture at a proper level. Use only unleaded fuel in your vehicle. If you use leaded fuel, you could damage your oxygen sensor (OS) and three-way catalytic converter.

Diesel Vehicles Below 8,500 (3 850 Kg) G VWR This system monitors engine speed and throttle position. It adjusts exhaust gas recirculation to limit emissions.

Malfunction Indicator (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) Light The Malfunction Indicator (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) Light on your instrument panel lets you know when your emission system needs service. The light will come on briefly when you start your engine to let you know that the system is working. If it does not come on when you start your engine, or if it comes on and stays on while you’re driving, your system may need service. Your vehicle should still be driveable, but you should have your system serviced right away. Secondary Air Injection Reaction (AIR) System (Gasoline Engines) You may have this system. It has a control valve that will direct air to where it is needed. If the AIR system needs service, your Malfunction Indicator (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) Lamp on your instrument panel will come on.

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Tires We don’t make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. These tires are warranted by the tire manufacturers, and their warranties are delivered with every new vehicle. If your spare tire is a different brand than your road tires, you will have a tire warranty folder from each of these manufacturers.

A CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact, such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Inflation - Tire Pressure The Certification/Tire label which is on the rear edge of the driver‘s door, or on the incomplete vehicle document in the cab, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires, when they’re cold. “Cold“ tneans your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than a mile. You can operate some vehicles at reduced inflation pressures only when you’ll be carrying reduced loads. On those vehicles, the minimum cold inflation pressures for a typical reduced load are printed on the “Improved Ride Tire Pressure” label located on the driver’s door. Weigh the vehicle to find the load on each tire and see the label for the minimum cold inflation pressures for that load.

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NOTICE: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If’ your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation) you can get: 0 Too much flexing

Too much heat 0 Tire overloading

Bad wear Bad handling

0 Bad fuel economy. If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get:

Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires - which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated. If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be inspected every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km) for any signs of unusual wear. If unusual wear is present, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When it’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, also see “Dual Tire Operation” later in this section.

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The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

FRT

I I I

FRT

If your vehicle has single rear wheels, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires. If your vehicle has front tires with different load ranges o r tread designs (such as all season vs. on/off road) than the rear tires. don‘t rotate your tires front to rear.

W v

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels and the load range and tread design for your front tires is the same as your rear tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires.

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or tread design for

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels and the load range your front tires is different from your rear tires, always use rotation pattern shown here when rotating your tires. The dual tires are rotated as a pair, and the inside rear tires become the outside rear tires. When you install dual wheels, be sure the vent holes in the inner and outer wheels on each side are lined up. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certificatioflire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

the correct

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When it’s Time for New Tires

Tread Wear Indicators One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if:

0 You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. 0 You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber.

The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that can‘t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Dual Tire Operation When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index. The outer tire on a dual wheel setup generally wears faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically. If you’re going to be doing a lot of driving on high-crown roads, you can reduce tire wear by adding 5 psi (35 kPa) to the tire pressure in the outer tires. Be sure to return to the recommended pressures when no longer driving under those conditions.

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A CAUTION:

If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is badly underinflated, the tire can overheat. An overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire. You or others could be injured. Be sure all tires (including the spare, if any) are properly inflated.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the CertificationRire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same. size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

I A CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all four wheels.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)

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Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest are: A, B, and C. They represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straight-ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction. Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. These grades are molded on the sidewalls of passenger car tires. While the tires available as standard or optional equipment on General Motors vehicles may vary with respect to these grades, all such tires meet General Motors performance standards and have been approved for use on General Motors vehicles. All passenger type (P Metric) tires must conform to Federal safety requirements in addition to these grades.

6-64

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. In most cases, you will not need to have your wheels aligned again. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your GM dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your

vehicle. A CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control, You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.

NOTICE: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

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Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles ( 160, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

Used Replacement Wheels

A CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how many miles it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel use a new GM original equipment wheel.

‘ire Chains

NOTICE: If your vehicle has dual wheels or LT265/75R16 size tires, don’t use tire chains; they can damage your vehicle. If you don’t have dual wheels or if you have a tire size other than LT26975R16, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Don’t use chains on the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

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Appearance Care

Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:

Gasoline Benzene Naphtha

0 Carbon Tetrachloride ’ 0 Acetone

Paint Thinner Turpentine Lacquer Thinner Nail Polish Remover

They can all be hazardous - some more than others - and they can all damage your vehicle, too. Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:

Alcohol Laundry Soap Bleach Reducing Agents

6-67

C/eaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or leather with a clean, damp cloth. Your GM dealer has two CM cleaners, a solvent-type spot lifter and a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. Do not use them on vinyl or leather. Here are some cleaning tips:

Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set.

0 Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft

brush may be used if stains are stubborn.

0 Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area only. If you use

them, don‘t saturate the stained area.

0 If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or

it will set.

Using Foam-Type Cleaner on Fabric

Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner following the directions on the container label. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate the material. Don’t rub it roughly. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove the suds. Rinse the section with a clean, wet sponge. Wipe off what’s left with a slightly damp paper towel or cloth. Then dry it immediately with a blow dryer or a heat lamp.

NOTICE: Be careful. A blow dryer may scorch the fabric.

~~

0 Wipe with a clean cloth.

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Using Solvent-Type Cleaner on Fabric First, see if you have to use solvent-type cleaner at all. Some spots and stains will clean off better with just water and mild soap. If you need to use a solvent:

Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with a clean, dull knife or scraper. Use very little cleaner, light pressure and clean cloths (preferably cheesecloth). Cleaning should start at the outside of the stain, “feathering” toward the center. Keep changing to a clean section of the cloth. When you clean a stain from fabric, immediately dry the area with a blow dryer to help prevent a cleaning ring. (See the previous NOTICE.)

Fabric Protection Your vehicle has upholstery and carpet that has been treated with Scotchgard TM Fabric Protector, a 3M product. Scotchgard TN protects fabrics by repelling oil and water, which are the carriers of most stains. Even with this protection, you still need to clean your upholstery and carpet often to keep it looking new. Further information on cleaning is available by calling 1-800-433-3296 Minnesota, 1-800-642-6 167).

(in

Special Cleaning Problems

Greasy or Oily Stains Stains caused by grease, oil, butter, margarine, shoe polish, coffee with cream, chewing gum, cosmetic creams, vegetable oils, wax crayon, tar and asphalt can be removed as follows:

Carefully scrape off excess stain. Follow the solvent-type instructions described earlier. Shoe polish, wax crayon, tar and asphalt will stain if left on a vehicle seat fabric. They should be removed as soon as possible. Be careful, because the cleaner will dissolve them and may cause them to spread.

Non-Greasy Stains Stains caused by catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, wine, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows:

Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water. If a stain remains. follow the foam-type instructions described earlier.

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If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a waterhaking soda solution: I teaspoon ( 5 ml> of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water. If needed, clean lightly with solvent-type cleaner.

Combination Stains Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows:

0 Carefully scrape off excess stain, then clean with cool water and allow

to dry.

0 If a stain remains, clean it with solvent-type cleaner. Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth.

0 Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do it

more than once.

0 Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them

off quickly. Use a clean cloth and GM vinyMeather cleaner.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap.

For stubborn stains, use GM vinylheather cleaner. Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

0 Soiled leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work

into finish, it can harm the leather.

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.

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Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

A CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you weaken them. In a crash they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

do, it may severely

Glass Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner (GM Part No. 1050427) or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films. Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon-Ami Powder@ (GM Part No. 105001 1). The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Wiper blades should be checked on a regular basis and replaced when worn. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.)

6-71

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Use liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soaps. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois o r a 100% cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Your GM manufactured vehicle may have a ‘‘base~~at/~learcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoatklearcoat paint finish.

NOTICE: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoatlclearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc. can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.

6-72

Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use GM Chrome Polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts. Aluminum Wheels (If So Equipped) Your aluminum wheels have a protective coating similar surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, chrome polish, abrasive cleaners or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage this coating. After rinsing thoroughly, a wax may be applied.

to the painted

I NOTICE:

If you have aluminum wheels, don’t use an automatic car wash that has hard silicon carbide cleaning brushes. These brushes can take the protective coating off your aluminum wheels.

Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner. When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from painted surfaces. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish. Sheet Metal Damage replacement, If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Foreign Material Calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, and other foreign matter can damage your vehicle’s finish Use cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces matter.

if they remain on painted surfaces.

road oil and tar, tree

to remove foreign

6.- 73

Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan, and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody vehicle washing system can do this for you. Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever comes first. This applies only to materials manufactured and sold by General Motors. Bodies, body conversions or equipment not made or sold by General Motors are not covered.

6-74

Appearance Care Materials Chart

PART NO. 1050172

SIZE

16 oz. (0.473L)

PRODUCT Tar and Road Oil Remover

USAGE Removes old waxes, polishes, tar and road oil

1050173

16 oz. (0.473L)

Chrome Cleaner Removes rust and Polish

and corrosion on chrome and stainless steel Cleans white and black tires Spot and stain removal on leather or vinyl Spot and stain removal on cloth and fabric Glass cleaning and spot cleaning on vinyls Cleans vinyl and cloth on door trim, seats, and carpet-also tires and mats. Cleaning of vinyl tops Vinyl top dressing Spot and stain removal on cloth and fabric Exterior wash

Exterior cleaner and polish

1050 174

16 oz. (0.473L)

10502 14

32 oz. (0.946L)

White Sidewall Tire Cleaner Vinyl Leather Cleaner

1050244

16 oz. (0.473L)

Fabric Cleaner

1050427

23 oz. (0.680L)

Glass Cleaner

1050429

6 Ibs. (2.72 kg)

Multi-Purpose Powder Cleaner

1050729

8 oz. (0.237L)

1051055

16 oz. (0.473L)

Vinyl Top Cleaner Preservatone

1051398

8 oz. (0.237L)

Spot Lifter

1052870

16 oz. (0.473L)

105020 1

16 oz. (0.473L)

Wash-Wax (conc .) Magic Mirror Cleaner-Polish

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Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

0 TESTVNXX3XXQ09696 G

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.

Engine ldentificafion The eighth character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications. and replacement parts.

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31 I

00

W f

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Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the inside of the glove box. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:

your VIN, the model designation, 0 paint information, and

a list of all production options and special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle. Add-on Electrical Equipment

NOTICE: Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.

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Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers, and fusible thermal links in the wiring itself. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers’’ in the Index for more information.

Headlamps The headlamp wiring is protected by a circuit breaker in the lamp switch. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to flicker on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away.

Windshield Wipers The windshield wiper motor is protected by a clrculc DreaKer ana a ruse. 11 the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. Although the circuit is protected from electrical overload, overload due to heavy snow, etc., may cause wiper linkage damage. Always clear ice and heavy snow from the the windshield before using the windshield wipers. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers in the fuse panel protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes. This protects the circuit until the current load returns to normal or the problem is fixed.

Trailer Wiring Harness The standard seven-wire trailer wiring harness is protected by an in-line fuse in the battery feed wire. This fuse is near the junction block. See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index for more information.

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Fuse Block

The fuse block access door is on the driver’s side edge of the instrument panel. Pull off the cover to access the fuse block. You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor. The fuse extractor is mounted to the fuse block access door.

To remove fuses if you don’t have a fuse extractor, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out. Be sure to use the correct fuse. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can “borrow” one of the correct value. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without-like the radio its fuse, if it is of the value you need. Replace or cigarette lighter-and use it as soon as you can. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Tndex for more information. Specification Charts Replacement Parts Replacement part numbers listed in this section are based on the latest information available at the time of printing, and are subject to change. If a part listed in this manual is not the same as the part used in your vehicle when it was built, or if you have any questions, please contact your GM truck dealer. These specifications are for information only. If you have any questions, see the service manual for the chassis or refer to the body manufacturer’s publications.

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Engine Identification - Gasoline Engines

Engine Type

VIN Code Fuel System Emissions

5.0L V8 TBI? LD

"Light Duty Emissions with 8,500 lbs. (3 850 Kg) GVWR and below. **Heavy Duty Emissions over 8,500 lbs. (3 850 Kg) GVWR. ?Throttle Body Injection Engine Identification - Gasoline Engines (cont.)

Engine Type

VIN Code Fuel System Emissions

7.4L V8 TBI?

LD*/HD**

"Light Duty Emissions with 8,500 lbs. (3 850 Kg) GVWR and below. ""Heavy Duty Emissions over 8,500 lbs. ( 3 850 Kg) GVWR. ?Throttle Body Injection Engine Identification - Diesel Engines

Engine Type

VIN Code Fuel System

6.5L V8

Diesel

6.5L V8

6.5L V8

Turbo Diesel

Turbo Diesel

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Wheel Nut Torque

MODEL

C 1500 K 1500 & C-K 2500 C-K 2500 (w/CGP) C-K 3500 -Single Rear Wheels C3500 -Dual Rear Wheels C3500 HD -Front -Rear

DESCRIPTION 5 bolts ( 14mm) 6 bolts (14mm) 8 bolts ( 14mm)

TORQUE

120 ft. lbs. (1 60 Nmm) 120 ft. lbs. (160 Nmm) 120 ft. lbs. (160 Nom)

8 bolts ( 14mm)

120 ft. lbs. (1 60 Nom)

8 bolts (14rnm)

140 ft. lbs. ( 190 Nmm)

5 bolts (518 in.) 10 bolts (5/8 in.)

175 ft. lbs. (240 Nom) 175 ft. lbs. (240 Nom)

Cooling System Capacity

ENGINE

4.3L 5 .OL

5.7L

6.5L

6.5L

6.5L

7.4L

7.4L w/3500 HD

VIN

QUANTITY*

13 Quarts (12.3 Liters) 17.5 Quarts (16.6 Liters) 17.5 Quarts (16.5 Liters) 23.5 Quarts (22.2 Liters) 23.5 Quarts (22.2 Liters) 23.5 Quarts (22.2 Liters) 25 Quarts (23.5 Liters) 28.5 Quarts (27 Liters)

After refill, the level MUST be checked as outlined under “Engine Cooling System” in Section 5. *All quantities are approximate.

6-82

CranKcase Capacity

ENGINE

VIN

4.3L 5 .OL 5.7L“ 6.5L 6.5L 6.5L 7.4L>$

€4

QUANTITY WITH

FILTER*

4.5 Quarts (4.3 Liters) 5 Quarts (4.8 Liters) 5 Quarts (4.8 Liters) 7 Quarts (6.5 Liters) 7 Quarts (6.5 Liters) 7 Quarts (6.5 Liters) 7 Quarts (6.5 Liters)

After refill, the level MUST be checked as outlined under “Engine Oil And Filter Recommendations” in Section 5. All quantities are approximate. “Add one additional quart for C3500 HD Models. +Oil filter should be changed at EVERY oil change.

Fuel Tank Capacity

TYPE

Gasoline/Diesel with Short Bed with Long Bed Crew Cab Standard Chassis-Cab Models Standard (Side Tank) Optional (Rear Tank) 3500 HD Models Standard (Side Tank) Optional (Rear Tank)

QUANTITY

26 Gallons (98 Liters) 34 Gallons (1 28 Liters)

34 Gallons (1 28 Liters)

23 Gallons (87 Liters) 3 1 Gallons (1 17 Liters)

23 Gallons (87 Liters) 3 1 Gallons ( 117 Liters)

All quantities are for a completely dry tank and are approximate.

6-83

Service Replacement Part and Filter Recommendations - Gasoline Engines 5.7L

Engine VTN

4.3L

5.0L

Oil Filter Air Cleaner

Filter

PCV Valve Spark Plugs* Fuel Filter Radiator Cap

PFS2

A 178CW

CV789C .CR43TS GF48 1 RC36

PF12183- A348C

c v 7 7 4 c .CR43TS GF48 1 RC36

PF1218q A348C

c v 7 7 4 c .CR43TS GF38 1 RC36

+Four Wheel Drive Vehicle - use a PFS2 oil filter W s e AC copper-cored resistor type spark plugs Service Replacement Part and Filter Recommendations - Diesel Engines

7.41

PF1218 A348C

c v 7 7 4 c .CR43TS GF48 I RC36

Engine VIN

Oil Filter Air Cleaner Fuel Filter RC33

Surge Tank Cap

6.5L

PF1218 A644C TP 1006

6.5L

PF1218 A 1236C TP 1 006 RC33

6.51

PF1218 A 1236C TP I006 RC33

6-84

Air Conditioning Refrigerants Not all air conditioning refrigerants are the same. If the air conditioning system in your vehicle needs refrigerant, be sure the proper refrigerant is used. If you’re not sure, ask your GM dealer. For additional information, see your “Warranty and Owner Assistance Information” booklet,

NOTICE: R-134A refrigerant is not compatible with R-12 refrigerant in an air conditioning system. R-12 in an R-134A system will cause compressor failure, refrigerant oil sludge, or poor air conditioning system performance.

Air Conditioning

Refrigerant Capacity

TYPE Refrigerant R-

134A

QTY

2.25 lbs. (1.020 kg)

6-85

Fuse Block

I 25AMP I CLEAR I 30AMP I GREEN I

0.

lo

22

23

l2

24

o2 o3 . D 01 o9 o7 [I,,

[I8

6-86

Fuses and Circuit Breakers

POSITION NAME 1.

STOP/HAZ

T CASE CTSY

GAGES

RR HVAC CRUISE AUX PWR CRANK PARK LPS

AIR BAG WIPER HTR-A/C CIG LTR

ILLUM

DRL-FOG TURN-B/U RADIO BRAKE RADIO BATT TRANS