1995 GMC Sierra Owners Manual

In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things carried in the bed of your truck could shift forward and come into the passenger area, injuring you and others. If you put things in the bed of your truck, you should make sure they are properly secured.

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A CAUTION:

DO not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, or it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. If your vehicle is equipped for front-end equipment (a snow plow, for example), the front suspension may have been adjusted (raised) to level the vehicle when the equipment was installed. If the front suspension was adjusted, you must re-adjust the front suspension after the equipment is removed to avoid possible front suspension damage. Adjust the front suspension to original design specifications for your particular model.

NOTICE: Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

There’s also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle“ in the Index.

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Truck-Camper Loading Information Open your glove box door and look for this label:

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This label will tell you how much of a load your vehicle can carry, and how to spread out your load the right way. Also, it will help you match the right slide-in camper to your vehicle. When you carry a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of your vehicle is the weight of the camper, PLUS

everything else added to the camper after it left the factory; everything in the camper; and all the people inside.

The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But, you can figure about 150 pounds for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR. TRUCK LOADING INFORMATION

1. Recommended

location for cargo center of gravity for cargo weight rating (Pickup Truck) .

Refer to the Truck Camper Loading Information label in glove box for “A”and “B” dimensions. Use the rear edge of the load floor for measurement purposes.

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EXAMPLE OF PROPER TRUCK AND CAMPER MATCH

I . Camper center of

gravity

2. Recommended center of gravity location zone.

The camper’s center of gravity should fall within the center of gravity zone for your vehicle’s cargo load. You must weigh any accessories or other equipment that you add to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra weight may shorten the center of gravity zone of your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. If your slide-in camper and its load weigh less than the CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger. Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper match. He’ll also help you determine your CWR. After you’ve loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and weigh on the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on your axles. The loads on the front and rear axles shouldn’t be more than either of the GAWRs. The total of the axle loads should not be more than the GVWR. Open your driver’s door and look at the CertificatiodTire label to find out your GAWR and GVWR. If you’ve gone over your weight ratings, move or take out some things until all the weights fall below the ratings. Of course, you should always tie down any loose items when you load your vehicle or camper. When you install and load your slide-in &‘@er, check the manufacturer’s instructions. If you want more information on curb weights, cargo weights, cargo weight rating and the correct center of gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer can help you. Just ask for a copy of “Consumer Information, Truck-Camper Loading.”

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Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the CWR for your vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer hitch attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or the G A M . You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see “Trailer Towing” in the Index. Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may consider having the pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed. Before you do so, first contact the GM Zone Office for your area for “Warranty information on such conversions specific to this vehicle. (See the and Owner Assistance” booklet for Zone Office.) Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which may affect vehicle safety. The components necessary to adapt a pickup to permit its safe use with a specialized body should be installed by a body builder in accordance with the information available from the Zone Office. Towing a Trailer

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your GM dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

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Most vehicles are ready for some trailer towing. If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points.

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 4,000 pounds ( I 800 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than 4,000 pounds (1 800 kg). You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don‘t drive over 50 mph (80 k d h ) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. If you have an automatic transmission, you should use DRIVE (3) (or, as you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in DRIVE (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat build-up and extend the life of your transmission. If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH ( 5 ) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.

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You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to: General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Assistance Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario Ll H 8P7 Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The gross vehicle weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle‘s tires are inflated t o the limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Tire Loading“ in the Index. Then be sure you don‘t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, includins the weight of the trailer tongue.

Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

If you use a step bumper hitch, and your trailer tongue has a V-shaped foot. your bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Check the distance from the front edge of the foot to the middle of the hitch ball socket. If the distance is less than 12 inches, take the foot off the trailer tongue. If you‘ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 4,000 pounds ( 1 8 14 kg) be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes - and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install. adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer brake system can tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system, but consider the following:

Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system will use more than 0.02 cubic inch ( 0 . 3 ~ ~ ) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Tf it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.

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Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 Wa) of Ijressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not be

used with your vehicle.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. ‘This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. . Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the back up slowly and, if possible, right, move your hand to the right. Always have someone guide you.

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Making Turns

I NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring (included in the optional trailering package). The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 kmh) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating. If you have an automatic transmission you should use DRIVE (3) (or, as you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in DRIVE (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat build-up and extend the life of your transmission. If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH ( 5 ) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).

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When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (Pj (or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1 .

Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet, or in gear for a manual transmission. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. Re-apply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P), or REVERSE (Rj for a manual transmission. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear-not in NEUTRAL (N). Release the regular brakes.

2. 3.

4.

5.

6.

A CAUTION:

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can rofl. If you have Ieft the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. If you have four-wheel drive and your transfer case is in NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear - not in NEUTRAL (N).

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:

Start your engine: Shift into a gear; and Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

Trailer Lighting Systems Wiring See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.

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4-50

Problems on the Road

Section

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road. Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off. But they won’t flash if you’re braking.

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Push the button at the top of the steering column all the way down to make your front and rear turn signals flash on and off.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. To turn off the flashers, push the button until the first click and release. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can use them to warn others. Set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.

A CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. 0 They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these can hurt you.

things

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A CAUTION:

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

NOTICE: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your vehicle warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it could damage your vehicle, even if you have a manual transmission. And if you have an automatic transmission, it won’t start that way.

To Jump Start Your Vehicle 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative

ground system.

NOTICE: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

If you have a diesel engine vehicle with two batteries (or more), you should know before you begin that, especially in cold weather, you may not be able to get enough power from a single battery in another vehicle to start your diesel engine. If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the battery that’s on the passenger side of the vehicle - this will reduce electrical resistance. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be

sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

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You could be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL (N). If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not i n NEUTRAL (N).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all lights that aren’t

needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

NOTICE: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and

negative (-) terminals on each battery.

A CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the batteries have enough water. You don’t need to add water to the Delco Freedom@ battery (or batteries) installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. ff you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If

they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect (+) to (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.

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A CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engines are running.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the

vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Dead Battery

(+)

Good Battery (+)

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+)

terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative

(-) cable. Don‘t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable DOESN’T go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part of the vehicle with the dead battery.

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Good Battery (-)

Heavy Metal Engine

Part

9.

IO.

11.

Attach the cable at leas1 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for awhile. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service. Remove Cables in this Order: - +

1. Heavy Metal Engine Part

2. Good

Battery (-)

.. .

3. Good

Battery (+)

4. Dead Battery

(+>

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent electrical shorting.

Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.

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To wing Your Vehicle Try to have your GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know how to tow it without damage. If your vehicle has been changed since it was factory-new. by adding such things like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these things could be damaged during towing. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

0 That your vehicle has rear-wheel drive, or that it has the four-wheel

drive option. The make, model, and year of your vehicle.

0 Whether you can move the shift lever for the transmission and transfer

case, if you have one. If there was an accident. what was damaged.

A CAUTION:

To help avoid injury to you or others:

Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is being towed.

0 Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds. 0 Never tow with damaged parts not fuIly secured. 0 Never get under your vehicle after it has been lifted by the

tow truck.

0 Always use separate safety chains on each side when towing a

vehicle.

0 For pickups (except cab chassis models), use T-hooks on front

of vehicle, J-hooks on rear. For cab chassis models, use J-hooks on front and rear of vehicle.

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing, service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transmission and transfer case, if you have one, should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released.

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A CAUTION:

A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t adequately secured. This can cause a collision, serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or steel cables before it is transported. Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps, canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp edges underneath the towed vehicle.

Towing From the Front

If you have a two-wheel drive vehicle, don’t have your vehicle towed on the rear wheels, unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the rear wheels, don’t go more than 35 mph (56 km/h) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transmission will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the rear wheels have to be supported on a dolly. If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option and the transfer case is engaged, a dolly must be used under the rear wheels when towing from the front .

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lowing From the Rear

NOTICE: Towing pickup models from the rear while loaded with heavy cargo may cause the frame side rails to flex sufficiently to allow the pickup box to contact the cab and could cause damage to the cab and/or box.

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Engine Overheating YOU will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle instrument panel. If YOU have a diesel engine, you will also find a low coolant light on your instrument panel. lf Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

A CAUTION:

if you see or

you badly, even if

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before opening the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

NOTICE: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

0 Climb a long hill on a hot day. 0 Stop after high speed driving. 0 Idle for long periods in traffic.

Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades’’ in the Index.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:

1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the

window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the

highest gear while driving - AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (@) or DRIVE (3) for automatic transmissions.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turn ofSthe engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

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Cooling System - Gasoline Engines

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see: A. Coolant recovery tank B. Engine fan(s) C. Radiator pressure cap

I A CAUTION:

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

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The coolant level should be a 1 or above the COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses. heater hoses, radiator. water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

A CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

NOTICE: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there s e e m to be no leak. start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the COLD mark, add a SO/SO mixture of c.lea12 water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)

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NOTICE: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant.

5-14

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the COLD mark. start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

A CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and turn the radiator pressure cap - even a little - they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

if you

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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator r

1.

You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don't press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

:_.

.w

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

5-16

3. Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base of the filler neck.

4. Then fill the

coolant recovery tank to the COLD mark.

5. Put the cap back

on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

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I L

F

6. Start the engine

and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan(s).

7. By this time the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

I _

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if

coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

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Cooling System - Diesel Engines

When you decide it‘s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see: A. Coolant surge tank pressure cap B. Engine fan(s)

C. Radiator A CAUTION:

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

The coolant level should be at or above the COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

5-19

I A CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

I NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank

I NOTICE:

The diesel engine has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.

If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of cleun water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)

5-20

A CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap - even a little - they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot.

’ Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap

to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

A CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and a proper antifreeze.

5-21

NOTICE: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. So use the recommended coolant.

A CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don't spill coolant on

a hot engine.

1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling

system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don't press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

5-22

2. Then keep

turning the cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

3. After the engine cools, open the air bleed valve on the thermostat housing.

A CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and parts are hot enough. Don't spill coolant on a hot engine.

it will burn if the engine

4. Fill with the proper mix. Add coolant until you see a steady stream of

coolant coming from the bleed valve.

5. Close the bleed valve. 6. Rinse or wipe the spilled coolant from the engine and compartment.

5-23

7. Then fill the coolant surg,e tank with the proper mix. up to the COLD mark.

8. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it

run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan(s). By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the COLD mark.

5-24

Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day driving conditions the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch partially disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages. If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly, Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-25

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

A. Flat Tire B. Blocked Tire

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. The equipment you’ll need is behind the passenger’s seat. Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and remove the jack cover, if there is one. Your spare tire is stowed under the truck bed, at the rear.

5-26

Jack and Jacking Tool Storage - Two and Four Door Models

1. Nut 2. Jack 3. Jack Handle Extension 4. Wheel Wrench Jack and Jacking Tool Storage - Extended Cab Models

5. Jack and Tool Storage Box 6. Ratchet 7. Jack Handle 8. Tool Retainer

1. Nut 2. Jack and Tool Cover 3. Jack Handle Extension 4. Tool Retainer

5. Jack and Tool Storage Box 6. Ratchet 7. Wheel Wrench 8. Jack 9. Jack Handle

5-27

Jack and Jacking Tool Storage - Chassis Cab Models Jacking Tool Storage - Chassis Cab Models

-1 -1

3 3

1. Nut 2. Jack Handle Extension 3. Wheel Wrench 4. Jack and Tool Storage Box

5. Ratchet 6. Jack Handle 7. Tool Retainer 8, Jack

To Remove the Spare Tire The spare tire, if you have one, is full size like the other tires on your vehicle.

5-28

Spare Tire Stowage - Under-Body Carrier

I . Hoist Assembly 2. Ratchet 3. Wheel Wrench 4. Hoist Shaft

5. Valve Stem, Pointed Down 6. Spare Tire 7. Retainer 8. Hoist Cable

The spare tire is stowed under the vehicle in an under-body carrier. Remember. never remove or restow a tire from an under-body carrier while the vehicle is supported only by a jack. If you have a chassis cab, refer to the information from the body supplier/installer for the location of your spare tire.

5-29

UP Marking

DOWN Marking

One side of the ratchet has an UP marking. The other side has a DOWN marking.

Attach the ratchet to the wheel wrench with the DOWN marking facing you.

Put the other end of the wheel wrench through the rear bumper access hole, located at the passenger side edge of the license plate. Be sure the wheel wrench connects into the hoist shaft.

5-30

Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to lower- the spare tire. Keep turning the ratchet until the spare tire can be pulled o u t from under the vehicle.

When the tire h a s been lowered. till the retainer at the end o f the cable and pull it through the wheel opening.

5-31

Changing the Tire

Start with the jack, the jack handle and the ratchet. If the flat tire is on the rear of the vehicle, you’ll need the jack handle extensions also.

Attach the jack handle (and jack handle extension, if needed) to the jack.

With the U p marking on the ratchet facing you, rotate the ratchet clockwise. That will lift the jack head a little.

Before you start, put the spare tire near the flat tire. Remove the wheel trim and loosen the wheel nuts. The next part wi!l show you how to do these things properly.

5-32

Kemoving Wheel Trim

If your vehicle has wheel nut caps, use the wheel wrench and ratchet t o remove them. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise. with DOWN facing you, to remove the wheel nut caps. Then take off the hub cap.

If the wheel also has a trim ring. use the wheel wrench to pry along the edge and remove it.

If the wheel has a smooth center piece or a center piece with recessed nuts, place the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry out.

5-33

Now, use the ratchet and wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise, with DOWN facing you, to loosen the wheel nuts. Don’t remove the wheel nuts yet.

If the flat tire is on the rear of the vehicle, put the jack handle extension on the jack handle. Position the jack under the vehicle.

1 A CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

NOTICE: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

5-34

Front rosluon

Rear Position

With UP on the ratchet facing you, raise the vehicle by rotating the ratchet and wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire,

A CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

5-35

Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

A CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel.

Tighten each wheel nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

Front Position

Rear Position

Lower the vehicle by rotating the ratchet and wheel wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

5-36

Tighten Clockwise

Tightening Sequence

4 0

Tighten the nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Rotate the wheel wrench clockwise.

A CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get the right kind. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque.

For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index. Put the wheel trim back on. For vehicles with plastic wheel nut caps, tighten the caps until they are finger tight, then tighten them an additional one-half turn with the ratchet and wheel wrench. Remove any wheel blocks. Remember, the jack, jacking equipment and tire must be properly stored in their original storage position before you begin driving again. The next part, “Storing the Tire and Jack,” will show you how.

5-37

I A ,CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

Stowing the Tire - Under-Body Carrier Stow the flat tire under the r w r of the vehicle in spare tire carrier. To stow the flat tire:

1 .

A I

3.

4.

5.

Put the tire on the ground a t the rear of the vehicle with the valve stern pointed down. Pull the wheel retainer through thc wheel opening. Attach the ratchet t o the urheel n'rench with the UP marking Facing you. Put the other end of the whcel wrench through the rcar bumper access hole, located at the passenger side edge of the license plate. Be sure the wheel wrench connects into the hoist shaft. Turn the ratchet clockwise to raise the tire. Keep turning the ratchet until the tire is all the way up. You will hear two "clicks" when the tire is secure. Pull on the tire t o nuke sure it is tightly secured.

Stowing the Jack and Jacking Tools Return the jack, ratchet, wheel wrench and jack extensions to their location behind the passenger's seat. Stow thc jack and jacking tools as shown in the illustrations earlier in this part. Secure the items and replace the jack cover, if there is one.

5-38

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as ”rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you nlust use caution.

A CAUTION:

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

I NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First. turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1 ) or SECOND (2) gear and REVERSE), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out. see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

5-39

Using the Recovery Hooks

Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you're stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

I A CAUTION:

The recovery hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

5-40

NOTICE: Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

5-41

Notes

5-42

Service & Appearance Care

Section

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care. Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you‘ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index.

6-1

You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

A CAUTION:

You can be injured if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it,

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, and the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners, “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

NOTICE: If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough about it, your vehicle could be damaged.

Fuel (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System” in this Section. For vehicles with gasoline engines, please read this. Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the United States and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see UNLEADED right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

6-2

What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.

NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there to must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel help avoid these problems.

Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions. Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel Sysrem Some states and provinces have restrictions on the purchase of diesel fuel for light-duty vehicles and require you to buy permits or pay special taxes. Some of these restrictions apply only to residents, and others apply to both residents and visitors. These restrictions can change. To learn the current restrictions in any state or province, contact your auto club, the police or other officials.

6-3

Fuel Requirements

NOTICE: Diesel fuel or fuel additives not recommended in this manual could damage your fuel system and engine. Your warranty wouldn’t cover this damage. And:

Diesel fuel that has been mixed with engine oil could damage your engine and emission controls. Always check with your service station operator to make sure his diesel fuel has not been mixed with engine oil. If you ever run out of diesel fuel, it can be difficult to restart your engine. “Running Out of Fuel,” later in this section, tells you how to get it started again. To avoid all this, try never to let your tank get empty.

What Fuel to Use For best results, use Number 2-D diesel fuel year-round (above and below freezing conditionsj as oil companies blend Number 2-D fuel to address climate differences. Number 1-D diesel fuel may be used in very cold temperatures (when it stays below 0°F or -18°C); however, it will produce a power and fuel economy loss. The use of Number I-D diesel fuel in warm or hot climates may result in stalling, poor starting when the engine is hot and may damage the fuel injection system. Diesel fuel may foam when you fill your tank. This can cause the automatic pump nozzle to shut off, even though your tank isn’t full. If this happens, just wait for the foaming to stop and then continue to fill your tank.

A CAUTION:

Heat coming from the engine may cause the fuel to expand and force the fuel out of your tank. If something ignites the fuel, a fire could start and people could be burned. To help avoid this, fill your fuel tank only until the automatic Don’t try to “top it off.”

nozzle shuts off.

6-4

Canadian Fuels Diesel-powered trucks are now equipped with emission control systems that require the use of diesel fuel with low-sulfur (.05% by weight) content. Both low- and higher-sulfur fuels will be available in Canada. Only low-sulfur diesel fuels are available in the United States. It is important that diesel-powered trucks are refueled with low-sulfur fuel. Use of fuels with higher-sulfur content will affect the function of the emission components and may cause reduced performance, excessive smoke and unpleasant odor.

Cold Weather Operation Follow the instructions listed previously under the heading “What Fuel to Use.” If you’re driving in very toold temperatures and can’t get a “winterized” Number 2-D that has been adapted to cold weather or a Number 1-D, you can use one gallon of kerosene for every two gallons of diesel fuel. Once you add the kerosene, run your engine for several minutes so the fuels will mix. Add kerosene only when the temperature falls below 0°F (-1 S”C), because the fuel economy of kerosene isn’t as good as that of diesel fuel.

NOTICE: Never use home heating oil or gasoline in your diesel engine. They can cause engine damage.

In cold weather, your fuel filter may become clogged (waxed). To unclog it, warm the filter to between 32°F and 50°F (OOC to 10°C). You won’t need to replace it. Water in Fuel Sometimes, water can be pumped into your fuel tank along with your diesel fuel. This can happen if a service station doesn’t regularly inspect and clean its fuel tanks, or if it gets contaminated fuel from its suppliers. If this happens, a WATER IN FUEL light will come on. If it does, the excess water must be drained. Your dealer can show you how to do this.

6-5

WATER

IN FUEL

This light also should come on briefly when you start your engine, as a check. If it doesn’t, have it fixed so it will be there to let you know if you ever do get water in your fuel.

If the light comes on at any other time, use this chart.

If you drive when this warning light is on, you can damage your fuel injection system and your engine. If the light comes on right after you refuel, it means water was pumped into your fuel tank. Turn off your engine immediately. Then, have the water drained at once.

“WATER IN FUEL” LIGHT CHART Problem

Action

Light comes on intermittently. Light stays on: 1. At temperatures above freezing.

2. At temperatures below freezing.

3. Immediately after refueling - large amount of water possibly pumped into fuel tank.

Recommended Drain water from fuel filter.

Drain fuel filter immediately. If no water can be drained and light stays on, see your dealer for assistance. Drain fuel filter immediately. If no water can be drained-water may be frozen. Open the air bleed valve to check for fuel pressure. If no fuel pressure is present, replace the fuel filter. Fuel tank purging required. See your dealer for assistance.

6-6

Hesitation or “flat” performance at high speed or during hard acceleration may be an indication of premature fuel filter plugging due to dirty or contaminated fuel. The fidter element may need to be changed if this happens. See your dealer for assistance. To drain water:

1. Stop and park the vehicle in a safe place. Turn off the engine and apply

the parking brake.

2. Remove the fuel tank cap. 3. Place a fuel-resistant container under the filter drain hose.

4. With the engine

off, open the water drain valve 2 to 3 turns. When standing in front of the vehicle, the valve is located on the right side of the thermostat housing.

5. 6. 7.

Start the engine and allow it to idle until clear fuel is observed. Stop the engine and close the water drain valve. Remove the fuel-resistant container and properly dispose of the contaminated fuel. To find out how to properly dispose of contaminated diesel fuel see “What to Do with Used Oil” in the “Engine Engines)” part, later in this section. Install the fuel tank cap.

8. If the WATER IN FUEL light comes on again after driving a short distance or the engine runs rough or been pumped into the fuel tank. The fuel tank should be purged.

large amount of water has probably

Oil (Diesel

stalls-a

6-7

NOTICE: If there is water in your diesel fuel and the weather humid, fungus and bacteria can grow in the damage your fuel system. You'll need a diesel fuel biocide to sterilize your fuel system. Your dealer can advise you if you ever need this. If your fuel tank needs to be purged to remove water, see your dealer or a qualified technician. Improper purging can damage your fuel system.

fuel. They can

is warm or

Running Out of Fuel (Diesel Engines) If the engine stalls and you think that you've run out of fuel, do this:

First, open the fuel filter air bleed valve. Briefly crank the engine and have someone watch the bleed valve. If there is air, then you are probably out of fuel.

To restart your engine:

I . If you're parked on a level surface, add at least two gallons of fuel.

However, if you're parked on a slope, you may need to add up to five gallons of fuel.

2. With the air bleed valve open, turn your ignition key to START for 10

to 15 seconds to crank (but not start) your engine. Wait one minute between intervals of cranking to allow the starter motor to cool. Overheating the starter motor could damage it. Keep doing this until you can just see some clear fuel at the air bleed valve. (If, during this step, the engine starts, turn the ignition off and close the valve before restart.)

6-8

A CAUTION:

Diesel fuel is flammable. It could start a fire if it gets on hot engine parts. You could be burned. Don't let too much fuel flow from the air bleed valve, and wipe up any spilled fuel with a cloth.

3. Close the air bleed valve. 4. Turn the ignition key to START for 10 to 15 seconds at a time until

your engine starts.

Fuel Filter Replacement (Diesel Engines) If you want to change the fuel filter yourself, here's how to do it:

A CAUTION:

Diesel fuel is flammable. It could start a fire if something ignites it, and you could be burned. Don't let it get on hot engine parts, and keep matches or other ignition sources away.

First. drain any water from the filter following the procedure for draining water listed previously. Your vehicle's engine should be off until the end of the following procedure.

1. Apply the parking brake. 2. Take off the fuel tank cap. This releases vacuum in the tank.

3. Unscrew and

remove the ring nut from the top of the filter head.

6-9

4. Lift the element out of the filter head.

5. If there is any dirt

on the element sealing surface of the filter head, clean it off.

6. Line up the

widest slot in the top of the new element with the widest key on then top of the filter head. Push the element in until the mating surfaces touch.

7. 8.

9. 10.

Replace and tighten the ring nut to the top of the filter head With the air bleed valve open, turn your ignition key to START for 10 to 15 seconds. Wait one minute for your starter to cool. Do this until you can see clear fuel coming from the air bleed valve. Close the air bleed valve and replace the fuel cap. Start your engine and let it idle for five minutes. Check your fuel filter and air bleed valve for leaks.

6- 10

Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines) If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation, North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L l H 8P7 Filling Your Tank

The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle.

A CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that if you’re near gasoline can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from gasoline.

6-11

While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door.

To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

A CAUTION:

-~

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you 1 open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if

your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear a clicking noise.

1 NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure t.0 get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

6- 12

Checking Things Under the Hood Hood Release

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle.

Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the secondary hood release, located just to the passenger side of the center of the grill. Lift the hood.

Your vehicle, if it has air conditioning, may have a auxiliary engine fan in addition to the belt driven fan.

6- 13

A CAUTION:

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary engine fan under the hood can start up and injure engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

you even when the

A CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start These include liquids like gasoline or diesel fuel, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

a fire. oil, coolant,

or

Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly. Cleaning Your Diesel Engine

I NOTICE:

If you spray or pour water or any other liquid on your engine when it is warm or hot, or when it is running, you could cause serious damage to it. If you ever clean the engine, clean it only when it is cold.

Noise Control System The following information relates to compliance with Federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 pounds (4 536 kilograms). The Maintenance Schedule booklet provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your Warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States.

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Tampering With Noise Control System Prohibited Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof

1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person, other than for

purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or

2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element of design has been

removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation:

Removal of noise shields or underhood insulation.

Engine:

0 Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if so equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.

Fan and Drive:

Removal of fan clutch (if so equipped) or rendering clutch inoperative.

0 Removal of fan shroud (if so equipped).

Air Intake:

0 Removal of air cleaner silencer.

Reversing air cleaner cover.

Exhaust:

0 Removal of muffler and/or resonator. 0 Removal of exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe clamps.

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Engine Oil (Gasoline Engines) It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down.

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When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see ”Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The engine oil filler cap is located on the driver’s side engine valve cover. Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Oil to Use Oils of the proper quality for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. The “Starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is prefenced for use in your gasoline engine.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the “Starburst” symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

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.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart: LIGHT DUTY EMISSIONS - GASOLINE ENGINES

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE 011 FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

HOT

WEATHER

LOOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

r31.

L c,

SAE IOW-30

SAE SW-30 PREFERRED

WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE IOW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (-I 8°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 2OW-SO.

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HEAVY DUTY EMISSIONS - GASOLINE ENGINES

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

~~~

HOT

WEATHER

LOOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

SAE 10W-30 PREFERRED above 0°F

(‘1 8°C)

SA€ 5W-30

COLD

WEATHER

00 NOT USE SA€ 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 10W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE SW-30 if it’s going to be colder than 60°F (16°C) before your next oil change. When it‘s very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 2OW-50.

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NOTICE: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the proper oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle.

Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop and go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas. You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently. You frequently tow a trailer.

If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first. Light Duty Emissions: If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. Heavy Duty Emissions: If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 6,000 miles (10 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first.

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Engine Coolant Heater An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0°F (-1 8OC) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater’’ in the Index.

What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer‘s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead. recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. Engine Oil (Diesel Engines) It’s a good idea to check your engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

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To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down.

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

I NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The engine oil filler cap is located on a filler tube at the front of the engine. Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

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What Kind of Oil to Use Look for these two things:

CF-4/SH CF-4/SH is the best oil for your vehicle. However. if you can not find C F 4 S H oil, you may use C F 4 S G or CE/SH or CE/SG oil. These may be listed as shown or in reverse order, for example SHKF-4. Other letters may also be listed, such as SH/CD, CE, C F 4 . These letters show American Petroleum Institute (API) levels of quality.

NOTICE: If you use oils that don’t have these designations, you can cause engine damage which is not covered by your warranty.

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DIESEL ENGINES

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

SELECT THE SAE GRADE OIL BASE0 ON THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE

BEFORE NEXT OIL CHANGE

WEATHER

HOT - -

:'

I- 100

/c3'

- -+16

+ 60

+ 32

- 3 0

- - -16 - - -29

-20

WEATHER

FOR LOOK THIS @

SYMBOL

- SAE

30

SAE 1 5 W 4 PREFERRED above 0°F

(-1 8°C)

SAE 1OW-30

00 NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

a SAE 15W-40

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 15W-40 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE IOW-30 if it's going to be colder than 32°F (0°C) before your next oil change. When it's very cold, below 0°F (-18"C), you should use SAE low-30 to improve cold starting. Also, SAE 30 may be used at temperatures above freezing, 32°F (0°C). These numbers on the oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 10W-40 or SAE 20W-50.

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This doughnut-shaped logo (symbol) is used on most oil containers to help you select the correct oil. You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that display the logo. GM Goodwrench‘ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.

When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

0 Most trips are less than 5 to I O miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly

important when outside temperatures are below freezing.

0 Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop and

e 00 traffic).

0 You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently. 0 You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle.

If any of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 2,500 miles (4 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles (8 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be