2007 GMC Savana Owners Manual

until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296
for reservoir location.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine

compartment cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the

reservoir clean.

3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Then remove the cap again and look at

the fluid level on the dipstick.

The level should be at the COLD FILL mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. To prevent contamination of brake fluid, never check or fill the power steering reservoir with the brake master cylinder cover off. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer

fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.

(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in

your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

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So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399. Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine and/or fuel operated heater parts, if equipped. If your vehicle has a diesel engine and a fuel operated heater, see “Fuel Operated Heater (FOH)” in the diesel engine supplement. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

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Look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3
brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 380.

(cid:127)

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

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Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

or ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 324 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

324

Ignoring these steps could result in

Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a

12-volt battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a

Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper

cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles.

Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

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4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+)

and negative (−) terminal locations of the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located behind a red plastic cover near the engine accessory drive bracket on the driver’s side of the engine compartment, below the alternator. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover. The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the engine drive bracket on all V8 engines and is marked GND (Ground). On V6 engines the remote negative (−) terminal is located on a tab attached to the engine accessory drive bracket and is marked GND (Ground).

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

326

{CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

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7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect

it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal for this purpose. It is marked GND. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery

and run the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead

battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover

to its original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or

Remote Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and

Remote Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

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All-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409.

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399. How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

If you have the 1500 Series, the proper level is from 5/8 inch (15 mm) to 1 5/8 inch (40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 2500 and 3500 Series is from 0 to 1/4 (6 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409. Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399.

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Noise Control System Tampering with Noise Control System Prohibited The following information relates to compliance with federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States.

How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant.

When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 3/8 inch (10 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409.

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Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof: 1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any

person, other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or

2. The use of the vehicle after such device or

element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation: • Removal of the noise shields or any

underhood insulation.

Engine: • Removal or rendering engine speed governor,

if the vehicle has one, inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.

Fan and Drive: • Removal of fan clutch, if the vehicle has one,

or rendering clutch inoperative.

• Removal of the fan shroud, if the vehicle

has one. Air Intake: • Removal of the air cleaner silencer. • Modification of the air cleaner. Exhaust: • Removal of the muffler and/or resonator. • Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust

pipe clamps.

Fuel Operated Heater (FOH) — Diesel Engine: • Removal of the muffler.

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Headlamps To remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle and access the bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on

page 295 for more information.

2. Remove the two bolts from the headlamp

assembly.

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 338. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

3. Remove the two pins on the top of the

headlamp assembly. To remove the pins, turn the outer pin clockwise and pull it straight up. To remove the inner pin, turn it counterclockwise and pull it straight up.

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4. Lift the inboard side of the headlamp to release the inboard tab from the radiator support.

5. Lift the outboard side of the headlamp to release the outboard tab from the radiator support.

6. Lower the headlamp to allow the vertical

adjustor to clear the tie bar.

7. Turn the headlamp forward and upward to

remove it from the grille.

8. Turn the bulb connector counterclockwise and

pull it out of the housing.

9. Without removing the headlamp assembly

itself, remove the bulb socket from the back of the headlamp on the driver’s side.

10. Turn the bulb counterclockwise one quarter

turn to remove it from the socket.

11. On the passenger’s side, turn the bulb

clockwise one turn.

12. Install the new bulb into the socket then reinstall it into the headlamp assembly.

13. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp

assembly.

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3. Remove the lamp from the grille. 4. Squeeze the tab on the side of the bulb socket while turning it counterclockwise.

5. Remove the bulb socket from the back of the

lamp assembly.

6. Replace the bulb. 7. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall it in

the lamp assembly.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) The center high-mounted stoplamp (CHMSL) is located above the rear doors at the center of the vehicle.

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps To replace the front turn signal, sidemarker and/or parking lamp bulb(s), do the following:

1. Use a small tool to unlatch the outboard clip

on the lamp.

2. Pull the lamp forward to completely unlatch the clip. Move the lamp outboard to loosen the tabs.

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To replace a bulb, do the following:

Taillamps To replace one of these bulbs, do the following:

1. Remove the

two inboard nuts from the inside of the taillamp assembly.

1. Remove the two screws from the CHMSL

assembly.

2. Remove the assembly. 3. Turn the bulb counterclockwise one quarter

turn to remove it from the socket.

4. Install a new bulb. 5. Reverse the steps to reinstall the assembly. If items are loaded on the roof of the vehicle, as in a luggage carrier, care should be taken not to block or damage the center high-mounted stoplamp unit.

2. Pull the taillamp assembly rearward to clear

the studs.

3. Slide the taillamp assembly slightly upward to

release the lower clip.

4. Remove the three nuts on the taillamp

assembly.

5. Remove the taillamp assembly from the

vehicle.

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Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp Back-up, Rear Parking, Stoplamp, and Turn Signal Lamp CHMSL Front Parking and Turn Signal Lamp Front Sidemarker Lamp Headlamps

Composite High-Beam Composite Low-Beam Sealed Beam Headlamp

Bulb Number

3157

912

3157KX

194

9005

9006GS H6054

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399 for more information on wiper blade inspection.

6. Remove the bulb socket by squeezing the tab

on the side of the socket while turning it counterclockwise.

7. Turn the bulb counterclockwise to remove it. 8. Install a new bulb. 9. Reverse the steps to reinstall the taillamp

assembly.

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Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. To remove the type with a release clip, do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm until it locks into a vertical

position.

2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot

locking tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.

3. The insert has two notches at one end that

are locked by bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the

notched end last, into the end with two blade claws. Then slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end.

5. Make sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slot.

6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull it up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade

assembly into the windshield.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

340

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same

danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If

the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.

Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

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(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 356.

(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348
and Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

342

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual configuration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

(D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

(E) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

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Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

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(A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the first two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.

345

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

346

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 353.

347

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 356.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 259.

Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards

348

A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 259. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the tire and loading information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

349

Dual Tire Operation When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper wheel nut tightening information, see “Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire” later in this section, under Changing a Flat Tire on page 360. Also see “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 393. The outer tire on a dual wheel setup generally wears faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 351. Also see Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399.

{CAUTION:

If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is badly underinflated, the tire can overheat. An overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire. You or others could be injured. Be sure all tires (including the spare) are properly inflated.

See Tires on page 340 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348 for more information on proper tire inflation.

350

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 353
and Wheel Replacement on page 357 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the ratchet/wheel wrench to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 360. If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, also see Dual Tire Operation on page 350. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399.

Single Rear Wheels

If your vehicle has single rear wheels, always use the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your vehicle’s tires. Do not include the spare tire in the tire rotation, if the spare tire/wheel assembly does not match your vehicle’s road tires and wheels in size and type.

351

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 360.

Dual Rear Wheels

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires. When you install dual wheels, be sure that vent holes in the inner and outer wheels on each side are lined up. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 259. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 393.

352

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: • You can see the indicators at three or more

places around the tire.

• You can see cord or fabric showing through

the tire’s rubber.

• The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or

snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.

• The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. • The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage

that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires.

353

GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by a MS, for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 341 for additional information.

{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires) the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on your vehicle’s wheels.

354

{CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 259, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label.

Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.

{CAUTION:

If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.

See Buying New Tires on page 353 and Accessories and Modifications on page 286 for additional information.

355

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

356

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

357

Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 393. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 360 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

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Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has dual wheels or P245/ 75R16 or LT245/75R16 size tires, do not use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid (Continued)

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

(Continued)

damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust, or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin the vehicle’s wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

Notice: If your vehicle does not have dual wheels and has a tire size other than P245/ 75R16 or LT245/75R16, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Do not use chains on the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

359

If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

360

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your vehicle’s hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 146 for more information.

{CAUTION:

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart

while the vehicle is raised.

4. Do not allow passengers to remain in

the vehicle.

To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

When your vehicle has a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.

The following information will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire.

361

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools If you have a cargo van or a passenger van, the equipment you will need is located in the passenger side rear corner of the vehicle.

Remove the retaining wing bolt and lift it off of the mounting bracket.

If you have a van with the 15-passenger seating arrangement, the equipment you will need is secured on the rear floor of the passenger side of the vehicle.

362

To access the equipment, remove the retaining wing bolt and lift it out of the mounting bracket.

To lower the spare tire from the vehicle, do the following:

1. Attach the wheel

wrench and ratchet, with the DOWN side facing you. The wheel wrench has a socket end and a flat chisel end. Note that there is an UP side and a DOWN side on the ratchet.

The tools you will be using include the jack (A), jack handle extension (B), jack handle (C), wheel wrench (D), and the ratchet (E). The spare tire is stored underneath the rear of your vehicle. You will use the wheel wrench (D) and the ratchet (E) to lower the spare tire from the vehicle.

2. Put the flat chisel end of the wheel wrench on

an angle through the hole between the body and the bumper. Be sure the flat end connects into the hoist shaft.

363

3. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to lower. See Secondary Latch System on page 371.

4. When the tire has been lowered, pull the tire toward you so you can reach the tire retainer and pull it up through the wheel opening.

If you have a vehicle which was completed from a cab and chassis, refer to the information from the body supplier/installer. The spare tire is a full-size tire, like the other tires on your vehicle.

364

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire If your vehicle has plastic wheel nut caps, loosen them by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. The wheel nut caps are designed to remain with the center cap. Remove the center cap. If the wheel has a smooth center piece, place the chisel end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry it out. 1. With the DOWN side facing you, use the

ratchet and wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Do not remove them yet.

2. Assemble the jack and tools for a front or rear

flat as follows:

Front Position

Front Flat: Assemble the jack (A) together with the jack handle (B) and ratchet (C) as shown. Be sure that the ratchet has the UP mark facing you.

365

Rear Position

Rear Flat: Assemble the jack (A) together with the jack handle (B), jack handle extension (C) and ratchet (D) as shown. Be sure that the ratchet has the UP mark facing you. To assemble the jack handle and jack handle extension, use the art and text following.

Connect the jack handle (B) and jack handle extension (C) together and press the retention clip (arrow) so it engages.

366

3. Position the jack under the vehicle as shown.

Front Position

Rear Position

{CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

367

{CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

368

4. Raise the vehicle by turning the ratchet

clockwise. Make sure the UP mark faces you. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

5. Remove all the

wheel nuts.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

6. Take flat tire off of the mounting surface.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places

CAUTION:

(Continued)

where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.

7. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

369

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

8. Put the wheel nuts

back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each wheel nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

370

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 393
for wheel nut torque specification.

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can

Notice: lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 393 for the wheel nut torque specification.

10. Use the wheel wrench to tighten the nuts firmly. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise and in a crisscross sequence as shown.

11. Put the wheel cover or the center cap and

plastic wheel nut caps back on. Remove any wheel blocks.

Secondary Latch System Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling off the vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire must be stowed with the valve stem pointing down. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 375 for instructions on storing the spare tire correctly.

{CAUTION:

Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed next.

371

To release the spare tire from the secondary latch, do the following:

{CAUTION:

Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from the under spare.

1. Check under the

vehicle to see if the cable end is visible.

If the cable is not visible, start this procedure at Step 6.

2. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.

372

3. Connect the jack handle (C) and jack handle

extension (B) together and press the retention clip (arrow) so it engages.

4. Attach the jack handle/jack handle extension

to the jack. With the UP mark facing you, slide the ratchet onto the end of the jack handle extension. The set-up should look like the picture above.

5. Place the jack under the vehicle, ahead of the

rear bumper. Position the center lift point of the jack under the center of the spare tire and turn the handle clockwise to raise the jack until it lifts the secondary latch spring.

6. Keep raising the jack until the spare tire stops

moving upward and is held firmly in place. This lets you know that the secondary latch has released. The spare tire is now balancing on the jack.

373

7. Lower the jack by turning the ratchet

counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by the cable.

8. Disconnect the jack handle from the jack and

carefully remove the jack. Use one hand to push against the spare while firmly pulling the jack out from under the spare tire with the other hand. If the spare tire is hanging from the cable, slide the ratchet onto the wheel wrench and insert the wheel wrench into the hoist shaft hole above the bumper. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare the rest of the way. Be sure the DOWN mark on the ratchet is facing you.

9. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and

pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

If you drive away before the spare

Notice: tire or secondary latch system cable has been reinstalled, you could damage your vehicle. Always reinstall this cable before driving your vehicle. 10. If the cable is hanging under the vehicle, turn the wheel wrench in the hoist shaft hole in the bumper clockwise to raise the cable back up.

Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or flat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been repaired or replaced. To continue changing the flat tire, return to Step 4
of Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 365.

374

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

{CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the

vehicle with the valve stem pointed down.

2. Pull the retaining bar through the center of the

wheel, making sure it is properly attached.

3. Pull the wheel toward the rear of the vehicle,

keeping the cable tight.

4. With the UP side facing you, attach the

ratchet to the wheel wrench.

5. Put the flat end of the wheel wrench on an

angle through the hole in the rear door frame, above the bumper.

6. Raise the tire fully against the underside of

the vehicle. Continue turning the ratchet until the tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist cannot be overtightened.

375

Spare Tire Your vehicle, when new, had a fully inflated spare tire. A spare tire may lose air over time, so check its inflation pressure regularly. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 348 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 259 for information regarding proper tire inflation and loading your vehicle. For instructions on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 365 and Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 375. Your vehicle may have a different size spare tire than the road tires originally installed on your vehicle. This spare tire was developed for use on your vehicle, so it is all right to drive on it. After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare tire is correctly inflated. Have the damaged or flat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, a spare tire will be available in case you need it again.

7. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push,

pull (A), and then try to turn (B) the tire. If the tire moves, use the ratchet to tighten the cable. You will hear two clicks when the tire is up all the way.

8. Return the jacking equipment to the proper location. Secure the items and replace the jack cover.

376

Do not mix tires and wheels of different sizes, because they will not fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. If your vehicle has a spare tire that does not match your vehicle’s original road tires and wheels in size and type, do not include the spare tire in the tire rotation. Appearance Care

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior.

If you use abrasive cleaners when

When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners specifically designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth. Notice: cleaning glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning your vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening your vehicle’s doors and windows. Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles.

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Your dealer has a product for cleaning your vehicle’s glass. Should it become necessary, you can also obtain a product from your dealer to remove odors from your vehicle’s upholstery. Do not clean your vehicle using the following cleaners or techniques: • Never use a knife or any other sharp object to

remove a soil from any interior surface.

• Never use a stiff brush. It can cause damage

to your vehicle’s interior surfaces. • Never apply heavy pressure or rub

aggressively with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage your interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal.

• Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps. Avoid

laundry detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers. Using too much soap will leave a residue that leaves streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide.

• Do not heavily saturate your upholstery

while cleaning.

• Damage to your vehicle’s interior may result

from the use of many organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc.

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Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on floor carpet and carpeted floor mats. For soils, always try to remove them first with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques: • For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a

paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed.

• For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible

and then vacuum.

To clean, use the following instructions: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with

water or club soda.

2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture. 3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently

rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled.

4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the

cleaning cloth remains clean.

5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild soap solution and repeat the cleaning process that was used with plain water.

If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a small hidden area for colorfastness first. If the locally cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation may result, clean the entire surface. After the cleaning process has been completed, a paper towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the fabric or carpet.

Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a clean soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used to gently remove dust and dirt. Never use spot lifters or removers on plastic surfaces. Many commercial cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect soft plastic surfaces may permanently change the appearance and feel of your interior and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Some commercial products may increase gloss on your instrument panel. The increase in gloss may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.

379

Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

{CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409.

Washing Your Vehicle The paint finish on the vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention, and durability. The best way to preserve the vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Do not wash the vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Do not use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. Approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 385. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter the vehicle.

380

Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under Washing Your Vehicle on page 380.

Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 385. If your vehicle has a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish, the clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and