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With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: • What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


• How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.


• Do you have the proper towing equipment?



See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed.


Towing


Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 424. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle — such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).


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If you tow your vehicle with all


Dinghy Towing Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: four wheels on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground. Notice: Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle if any of its wheels will be on the ground.


Dolly Towing Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from the rear: 1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly. 2. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on page 128 for more information.


3. Put the automatic transmission in PARK (P). 4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions


to attach and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle. Make sure the wheels are straight before towing. Use an adequate clamping device to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.


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5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.


6. Turn the ignition to LOCK.


If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent your battery from draining while towing.


All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with two wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground. Notice: Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle if any of its wheels will be on the ground.


Towing a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs that would not be covered by your warranty. Always follow the instructions in this section and check with your dealer for more information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


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To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in acceleration, braking, handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: • There are many different laws, including speed


limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


• Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches”


later in this section.


• Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first


500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.


• Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that


you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. • See also “Driving on Grades” later in this


section.


Three important considerations have to do with weight: • • • and the weight on your vehicle’s tires


the weight of the trailer the weight of the trailer tongue


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Tow/Haul Mode Tow/haul is designed to assist while your vehicle is pulling a large or heavy load or trailer. Tow/haul is most useful while pulling such a load in rolling terrain, in stop-and-go traffic, or when you need improved low-speed control, such as when parking. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is to: • Reduce the frequency and improve the


predictability of transmission shifts,


• provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded, improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity.



Press this button located to the right of the steering wheel on the instrument panel to turn tow/haul mode on and off.


While activated, the indicator light on the instrument panel will be on.


Tow/haul mode will turn off automatically when the ignition is turned off. See Tow/Haul Mode Light on page 185. Tow/haul is most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the Trailer” later in this section. Driving with tow/haul activated without a heavy load will cause reduced fuel economy and unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics, but will not cause damage.


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Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry.


See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.


The following charts show how much your trailer can weigh, based upon vehicle model and options.


G1500 Cargo Van 2WD Axle Ratio 4300 V6


5300 V8


3.42
3.42
3.73


Maximum Trailer Weight


4,300 lbs (1 950 kg)


5,900 lbs (2 676 kg)


GCWR*


9,500 lbs (4 309 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg)


H1500 Cargo Van AWD Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


5300 V8


G1500 Passenger Van 2WD 4300 V6


5300 V8


3.42
3.73


6,500 lbs (2 948 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg)


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.42
3.42
3.73


3,900 lbs (1 769 kg)


6,300 lbs (2 858 kg)


9,500 lbs (4 309 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg)


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H1500 Passenger Van AWD


5300 V8


G2500 Cargo Van 2WD Short Wheelbase


4800 V8


6000 V8


6600 V8 Diesel


G2500 Cargo Van 2WD Long Wheelbase


4800 V8


6000 V8


6600 V8 Diesel


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.42
3.73


6,100 lbs (2 767 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg)


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73


6,300 lbs (2 858 kg) 7,300 lbs (3 311 kg) 8,300 lbs (3 765 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 17,000 lbs (7 711 kg)


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73


6,100 lbs (2 767 kg) 7,100 lbs (3 220 kg) 8,100 lbs (3 674 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 17,000 lbs (7 711 kg)


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G2500 Passenger Van 2WD Short Wheelbase


4800 V8


6000 V8


6600 V8 Diesel


G3500 Cargo Van 2WD Short Wheelbase


4800 V8


6000 V8


6600 V8 Diesel


G3500 Cargo Van 2WD Long Wheelbase


4800 V8


6000 V8


6600 V8 Diesel


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73


5,800 lbs (2 631 kg) 6,800 lbs (3 084 kg) 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg) 9,800 lbs (4 445 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 17,000 lbs (7 711 kg)


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73


6,200 lbs (2 812 kg) 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) 8,200 lbs (3 719 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 k3) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 17,000 lbs (7 711 kg)


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73


6,000 lbs (2 721 kg) 7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 8,000 lbs (3 629 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 18,500 lbs (8 391 kg)


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G3500 Passenger Van 2WD Short Wheelbase


6000 V8


6600 V8 Diesel


G3500 Passenger Van 2WD Long Wheelbase


6000 V8


6600 V8 Diesel


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.73
4.10
3.73


7,700 lbs (3 483 kg) 9,700 lbs (4 400 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg)


14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 17,000 lbs (7 711 kg)


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.73
4.10
3.73


7,400 lbs (3 357 kg) 9,400 lbs (4 264 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg)


14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 17,000 lbs (7 711 kg)


*The Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo equipment and conversion. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.


You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 422 for more information.


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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 259 about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 400 lbs (181 kg) with a weight carrying hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 1,000 lbs (454 kg) with a weight distributing hitch. Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle.


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After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle.


It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:


You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg).


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Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). But let’s say your specific vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:


Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer


would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.


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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see Loading Your Vehicle on page 259. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.


276


Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches


(A) Body to Ground Distance, (B) Front of Vehicle


When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle. If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.


If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you’re using the wiring provided with the factory-installed trailering package, you should not need to make any holes in the body of your vehicle. However, if you have an aftermarket hitch installed, you may need to make holes in the body. If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle as well as dirt and water. See “Carbon Monoxide” under Engine Exhaust on page 132.


Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Since your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®, your trailer brake system cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system.


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Driving with a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you have a rear-most window open and you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You can not see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. See Engine Exhaust on page 132. To maximize your safety when towing a trailer:


(cid:127) Have your exhaust system inspected for leaks, and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip.


(cid:127) Keep the rear-most windows closed. (cid:127) If exhaust does come into your vehicle through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


278


CAUTION:


(Continued)


Do not use the climate control setting for maximum air because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. See Climate Control System in the Index.


Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time.


During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.


Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal flasher (included in the optional trailering package). The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating on page 309.


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Parking on Hills


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer


wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release


the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your


parking brake and then shift to PARK (P).


5. Release the regular brakes. When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal


down while you: • start your engine, • shift into a gear, and •


release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the


chocks.


4. Stop and have someone pick up and store


the chocks.


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Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Wiring Harness The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package includes a seven-wire harness assembly at the rear of the vehicle and a four-wire harness assembly under the left hand side of the instrument panel. The seven-wire harness assembly is taped together and located in a frame pocket at the driver side rear left corner of the frame.


The seven-wire harness includes a 30-amp feed wire. Both harnesses come without connectors and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician. The technician can use the following color code chart when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer and trailer brake controller. Seven-Wire Harness • Light Green: Back-up lamps • Brown: Parking lamps • Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal • Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal • Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes • Red/Black Stripe: Trailer accessory • White (heavy gage): Ground wire Four-Wire Harness (Trailer Brake Controller) • Black: Ground • Red/White Stripe: Fused Battery • Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Feed • Light Blue: Fused Stoplamp/CHMSL


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Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ........................................................ 286
Accessories and Modifications ................... 286
California Proposition 65 Warning .............. 286
Doing Your Own Service Work .................. 287
Adding Equipment to the Outside


of Your Vehicle ...................................... 287
Fuel ............................................................. 288
Gasoline Octane ........................................ 288
Gasoline Specifications .............................. 288
California Fuel ........................................... 289
Additives ................................................... 289
Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) ............................ 290
Fuels in Foreign Countries ........................ 291
Filling the Tank ......................................... 292
Filling a Portable Fuel Container ............... 294
Checking Things Under the Hood .............. 294
Hood Release ........................................... 295
Engine Compartment Overview .................. 296
Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) .................... 297


Engine Oil Life System


(Gasoline Engine) .................................. 300
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ............................ 302
Automatic Transmission Fluid .................... 303
Engine Coolant .......................................... 306
Radiator Pressure Cap .............................. 309
Engine Overheating ................................... 309
Cooling System ......................................... 311
Engine Fan Noise ..................................... 317
Power Steering Fluid ................................. 317
Windshield Washer Fluid ........................... 318
Brakes ...................................................... 319
Battery ...................................................... 323
Jump Starting ............................................ 324
All-Wheel Drive ........................................... 330
Rear Axle .................................................... 331
Front Axle ................................................... 331


283


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Noise Control System ................................. 332


Tampering with Noise Control System


Prohibited .............................................. 332
Bulb Replacement ....................................... 334
Halogen Bulbs ........................................... 334
Headlamps ................................................ 334
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and


Parking Lamps ....................................... 336
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) ... 336
Taillamps ................................................... 337
Replacement Bulbs ................................... 338
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ....... 338
Tires ............................................................ 340
Tire Sidewall Labeling ............................... 341
Tire Terminology and Definitions ............... 345
Inflation - Tire Pressure ............................. 348


Dual Tire Operation ................................... 350
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...................... 351
When It Is Time for New Tires .................. 353
Buying New Tires ...................................... 353
Different Size Tires and Wheels ................ 355
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..................... 356
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ............ 357
Wheel Replacement .................................. 357
Tire Chains ............................................... 359
If a Tire Goes Flat .................................... 360
Changing a Flat Tire ................................. 360
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .......... 362
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing


the Spare Tire ....................................... 365
Secondary Latch System ........................... 371
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...... 375
Spare Tire ................................................. 376


284


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Appearance Care ........................................ 377
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .......... 377
Fabric/Carpet ............................................. 378
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other


Plastic Surfaces ..................................... 379
Care of Safety Belts .................................. 380
Weatherstrips ............................................ 380
Washing Your Vehicle ............................... 380
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ................ 381
Finish Care ............................................... 381
Windshield and Wiper Blades .................... 382
Aluminum Wheels ...................................... 382
Tires ......................................................... 383
Sheet Metal Damage ................................. 383
Finish Damage .......................................... 383
Underbody Maintenance ............................ 384


Chemical Paint Spotting ............................ 384
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ............ 385
Vehicle Identification .................................. 386
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ........... 386
Service Parts Identification Label ............... 386
Electrical System ........................................ 387
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..................... 387
Headlamp Wiring ....................................... 387
Windshield Wiper Fuses ............................ 387
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ....................... 387
Floor Console Fuse Block ......................... 388
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ............... 390
Capacities and Specifications .................... 393


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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


286


Accessories and Modifications When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


Doing Your Own Service Work


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,


and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 96. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 413.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.


If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 437.


287


Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 289 for additional information.


Fuel If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System” in the DURAMAX® Diesel Supplement. For vehicles with gasoline engines, please read this. Gasoline Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep your engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, GM recommends the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 386. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85); also see Fuel E85
(85% Ethanol) on page 290. In all other gasoline engines, use only regular unleaded gasoline.


288


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 178. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel.


However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.


289


Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer for service.


Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 386. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85); also see Fuel on page 288. In all other engines, use only the unleaded gasoline described under Gasoline Octane on page 288.


290


Only vehicles that have the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z) may use 85% ethanol fuel (E85). General Motors encourages the use of E85
in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops. Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E85) pump available. The U. S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (www.eere.energy.gov/ afdc/infrastructure/locator.html) that can help you find E85 fuel. Those stations that do have E85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. At a minimum, E85 should meet ASTM Specification D 5798. By definition, this means that fuel labeled E85 will have an ethanol content between 70% and 85%. Filling the fuel tank with fuel mixtures that do not meet ASTM specifications can affect driveability and could cause the check engine light to come on.


To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the E85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E85, it may be because your E85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to your fuel tank may improve starting. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. It is best not to alternate repeatedly between gasoline and E85. If you do switch fuels, it is recommended that you add as much fuel as possible — do not add less than three gallons (11 L) when refueling. You should drive the vehicle immediately after refueling for at least seven miles (11 km) to allow the vehicle to adapt to the change in ethanol concentration. E85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to refill your fuel tank more often when using E85 than when you are using gasoline. See Filling the Tank on page 292.


Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E85 fuel and may harm your vehicle’s fuel system. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by your new vehicle warranty. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


291


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver side of the vehicle.


If the vehicle has E85 fuel capability, a yellow cap with the words “E85/gasoline” can be seen. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.


Filling the Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


292


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure


Notice: to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 178.


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 380. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 178.


293


Checking Things Under the Hood


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine or fuel operated heater (FOH) parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine or fuel operated heater (FOH).


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.


(cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


294


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the handle with this symbol on it. It is located in front of the driver’s side door frame near the floor.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and lift up the secondary hood release, which is located underneath the middle of the hood.


3. Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its


retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood.


If your vehicle has an underhood lamp, it will automatically come on and stay on until the hood is closed. Before closing the hood, be sure all of the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Let the hood down and close it firmly.


295


Engine Compartment Overview When you lift the hood, here is what you will see:


296


A. Battery. See Battery on page 323. B. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure


Cap on page 309.


C. Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 311.


D. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 303.


E. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine


Oil” under Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 297.


F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 297.


G. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 302.


H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power


Steering Fluid on page 317.


I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake


Fluid” under Brakes on page 319.


J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 318.


Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine Oil” in the DURAMAX® Diesel Engine Supplement. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296
for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper


towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


297


When to Add Engine Oil


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 393. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.


Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


298


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use


These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Look for two things: • GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. • SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.


299


When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light will come on. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 183. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


Engine Oil Life System (Gasoline Engine) When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.


300


How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a change engine oil light being turned on, reset the system. To reset the change engine oil light, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the


engine off.


2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal


slowly three times within five seconds.


3. If the Change Engine Oil light flashes for


five seconds, the system is reset.


4. Turn the key to LOCK. If the change engine oil light comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. If it still does not reset, see your dealer for service. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 183.


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.


301


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


The engine air cleaner/filter is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296 for more information on location.


302


When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (85 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 399 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. Never use compressed air to clean the filter. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Unhook the retainer clips and remove


the cover.


2. Lift the filter out of the engine air cleaner/filter housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.


Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services (Gasoline Engine) on page 402, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409.


3. Clean the engine air cleaner/filter housing. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter.


Make sure that the filter fits properly into the housing.


5. Reinstall the cover and fasten the


retaining clips.


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire


Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


303


To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.


How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: • When outside temperatures are above


90°F (32°C).


• At high speed for quite a while. • • While pulling a trailer.


In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.


304


Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the


engine running.


2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift


lever in PARK (P).


3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). 4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes


or more.


Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


The transmission dipstick is located near the center of the engine compartment and will be labeled with the graphic shown.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296
for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds


and then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the


lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


305


How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409. Using a funnel, add fluid down the transmission dipstick tube only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409. • After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.


• When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


306


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 309. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: • Give freezing protection down to


−34°F (−37°C).


• Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). • Protect against rust and corrosion. • Help keep the proper engine temperature. • Let the warning lights and gages work as


they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, radiator and fuel operated heater (FOH) corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant.


If you use an improper coolant


Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 409 for more information.


If you use extra inhibitors and/or


307


Checking Coolant for Gasoline Engines If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Checking Coolant” under “Van Models” in the DURAMAX® Diesel Supplement for information on checking your vehicle’s coolant.


Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.


The coolant recovery tank is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296
for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD FILL mark, or a little higher.


308


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 311.


Radiator Pressure Cap The radiator pressure cap is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296 for more information on location. Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.


If the pressure cap is not tightly


Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 178 for more information.


309


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


If your engine catches fire because


Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


310


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: • Climb a long hill on a hot day. • Stop after high-speed driving. • Idle for long periods in traffic. • Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under


Towing a Trailer on page 266.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in


NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest


fan speed and open the windows as necessary.


Cooling System If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Van Models” under “Cooling System” in the DURAMAX® Diesel Supplement. When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Engine Cooling Fan(s) If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down.


311


When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the COLD FILL mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.


{CAUTION:


Heater, fuel operated heater (FOH), radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.


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Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank for Gasoline Engines If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank” under “Van Models” in the Cooling System section of the DURAMAX® Diesel Supplement for the proper coolant fill procedure. If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the COLD FILL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 306
for more information.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer


fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.


(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only


three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in


your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


In cold weather, water can freeze and


Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


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{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot components in the engine compartment. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine or components in the engine compartment.


When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the COLD FILL mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator for Gasoline Engines If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “How to Add Coolant to the Radiator” under “Van Models” in the Cooling System section of the DURAMAX® Diesel Supplement for the proper radiator fill procedure.


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1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap


when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now


push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.


3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®


coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 306 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.


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4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the


COLD FILL mark.


5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank,


but leave the radiator pressure cap off.


6. Start the engine and let it run until you can


feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.


7. By this time, the coolant level inside the


radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time


during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap.


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Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch partially disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.


Power Steering Fluid


The power steering fluid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 296 for reservoir location.


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid

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