2007 GMC Acadia Owners Manual

6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load

from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity for your vehicle.

See Towing a Trailer on page 371 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.

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Example 1

Example 2

Item

Description

Total

Item

Description

Total

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

300 lbs (136 kg)

700 lbs (317 kg)

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

750 lbs (340 kg)

250 lbs (113 kg)

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Certification/Tire Label

Example 3

Item

Description

Total

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

0 lbs (0 kg)

Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.

A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR).

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To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer/retailer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle.

If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.

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Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

(cid:129) Put things in the cargo area of your

vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like

suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

(cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child

restraint in your vehicle.

(cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down

unless you need to.

Towing

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 524. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.

Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).

With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing” following in this section. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

(cid:129) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.

(cid:129) Do you have the proper towing equipment?

See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 352.

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(cid:129) Dinghy Towing If you have a front-wheel-drive vehicle, it can be dinghy towed from the front. These vehicles may also be towed by putting the front wheels on a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” later in this section. If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, it can be dinghy towed from the front. You can also tow these vehicles by placing them on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground. These vehicles cannot be towed using a dolly. For vehicles being dinghy towed, the vehicle should be run at the beginning of each day and at each RV fuel stop for about five minutes. This will ensure proper lubrication of transmission components. Put the IGN (Ignition) fuse in to start the vehicle.

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To tow your vehicle from the front with all four wheels on the ground: 1. Position the vehicle to tow and then secure it. 2. Turn the ignition to OFF. 3. Set the parking brake. 4. To prevent your battery from draining while the vehicle is being towed, remove the IGN (Ignition) fuse from the underhood fuse block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 493.

5. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY.

If you tow your vehicle without

6. Shift your transmission to NEUTRAL (N). 7. Release the parking brake. Notice: performing each of the steps listed under “Dinghy Towing,” you could damage the automatic transmission. Be sure to follow all steps of the dinghy towing procedure prior to and after towing your vehicle. Notice: towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your vehicle. Once you have reached your destination, do the following: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition key to OFF and remove the

If you exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while

key from the ignition.

3. Reinstall the IGN (Ignition) fuse. Notice: Don’t tow a vehicle with the front drive wheels on the ground if one of the front tires is a compact spare tire. Towing with two different tire sizes on the front of the vehicle can cause severe damage to the transmission.

Dolly Towing (All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles)

All-wheel-drive vehicles must not be towed with two wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground or dinghy towed from the front.

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Dolly Towing (Front-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Only)

Towing Your Vehicle From the Rear

Notice: Towing your vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed from the rear. Do not tow your vehicle from the rear.

To tow your front-wheel-drive vehicle from the front with two wheels on the ground: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Move the shift lever to PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead

position with a clamping device designed for towing.

5. Release the parking brake.

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Towing a Trailer

{CAUTION:

If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section.

But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.

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(cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.

(cid:129) You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to

shift the transmission to a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). See “Tow/Haul Mode” later in this section.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires

If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:129) There are many different laws, including speed

limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

(cid:129) Consider using a sway control. You can ask a

hitch dealer/retailer about sway controls. (cid:129) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first

500 miles (805 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

(cid:129) Then, during the first 500 miles (805 km) that

you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Tow/Haul Mode Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. The purpose of the Tow/Haul mode is to: (cid:129) Reduce the frequency and improve the

predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

(cid:129) Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded. Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Increase the charging system voltage to assist in recharging a battery installed in a trailer. Press this button on the console to enable/disable the tow/haul mode.

A light on the instrument panel will come on to indicate that tow/haul mode has been selected.

Tow/Haul may be turned off by pressing the button again, at which time the indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off Tow/Haul every time it is started. Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See Weight of the Trailer later in this section. Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: (cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or

heavy load through rolling terrain.

(cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or

heavy load in stop and go traffic.

(cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy

load in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment.

The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Look in the following chart to find the maximum trailer weight for your vehicle.

Package

Front-Wheel

Drive

All-Wheel Drive

Maximum

Trailer Weight

4,500 lbs (2 041 kg) 4,500 lbs (2 041 kg)

*GCWR

9,500 lbs (4 309 kg) 9,700 lbs (4 400 kg)

*The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 522 for more information.

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 361 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10-15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may also be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating).

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The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:

The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). But let’s say your specific vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:

You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much.

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Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg).

You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification/Tire label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 361. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: (cid:129) The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.

(cid:129) Will you have to make any holes in the body of

your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 138. Dirt and water can, too.

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Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If you tow more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg), use trailer brakes. Because your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, don’t try to tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

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Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer/retailer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

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Driving on Grades Your vehicle is designed primarily as a passenger and load carrying vehicle. If you tow a trailer, your vehicle will require more frequent maintenance due to the additional load. Because of the added load of the trailer, your vehicle’s engine may overheat on hot days, when going up a long or steep grade with a trailer. If the engine coolant temperature gage indicates overheating, turn off the air conditioning to reduce engine load, pull off the road and stop in a safe spot. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 55 mph (88 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating.

Parking on Hills

{CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift

into PARK (P). When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.

2. Have someone place chocks behind the

trailer wheels.

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3. When the chocks are in place, release the

regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your

parking brake and shift into PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes. When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal

down while you:

start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the

chocks.

4. Stop and have someone pick up and store

the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 502 for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Trailer Wiring Harness Your vehicle is equipped with the following wiring harness for towing a trailer.

Basic Trailer Wiring The trailer wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector, is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to the vehicle’s frame. The harness connector can be plugged into a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector available through your dealer/retailer. The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:129) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Brown: Taillamps (cid:129) White: Ground

Light Green: Back-up Lamps

(cid:129) Red: Battery Feed* (cid:129) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake* *The fuses for these two circuits are installed in the underhood electrical center, but the wires are not connected. They should be connected by your dealer/retailer or a qualified service center. If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, press the tow/haul mode button located at the end of the shift lever. This will boost the vehicle system voltage and properly charge the battery. If the trailer is too light for tow/haul mode, you can turn on the headlamps (Non-HID only) as a second way to boost the vehicle system and charge the battery. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 410.

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(cid:129) Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Service ........................................................ 385
Accessories and Modifications ................... 385
California Proposition 65 Warning .............. 386
Doing Your Own Service Work .................. 386
Adding Equipment to the Outside

of Your Vehicle ...................................... 387
Fuel ............................................................. 387
Gasoline Octane ........................................ 388
Gasoline Specifications .............................. 388
California Fuel ........................................... 388
Additives ................................................... 389
Fuels in Foreign Countries ........................ 390
Filling the Tank ......................................... 390
Filling a Portable Fuel Container ............... 393
Checking Things Under the Hood .............. 394
Hood Release ........................................... 395
Engine Compartment Overview .................. 396
Engine Oil ................................................. 397
Engine Oil Life System .............................. 400
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ............................ 402
Automatic Transmission Fluid .................... 404
Engine Coolant .......................................... 406
Radiator Pressure Cap .............................. 410
Engine Overheating ................................... 410

Overheated Engine Protection

Operating Mode ..................................... 412
Cooling System ......................................... 413
Power Steering Fluid ................................. 419
Windshield Washer Fluid ........................... 420
Brakes ...................................................... 421
Battery ...................................................... 424
Jump Starting ............................................ 425
All-Wheel Drive ........................................... 430
Headlamp Aiming ........................................ 431
Bulb Replacement ....................................... 432
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting ..... 432
Halogen Bulbs ........................................... 432
License Plate Lamp ................................... 433
Replacement Bulbs ................................... 433
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ....... 434
Tires ............................................................ 435
Tire Sidewall Labeling ............................... 436
Tire Terminology and Definitions ............... 439
Inflation - Tire Pressure ............................. 442
Tire Pressure Monitor System ................... 444
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...................... 448
When It Is Time for New Tires .................. 450

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Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Buying New Tires ...................................... 450
Different Size Tires and Wheels ................ 452
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..................... 453
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ............ 454
Wheel Replacement .................................. 454
Tire Chains ............................................... 456
If a Tire Goes Flat .................................... 457
Changing a Flat Tire ................................. 458
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .......... 459
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing

the Spare Tire ....................................... 463
Secondary Latch System ........................... 468
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...... 472
Compact Spare Tire .................................. 477
Appearance Care ........................................ 478
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .......... 478
Fabric/Carpet ............................................. 480
Leather ...................................................... 481
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other

Plastic Surfaces ..................................... 481
Care of Safety Belts .................................. 482
Weatherstrips ............................................ 482
Washing Your Vehicle ............................... 482
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ................ 483

384

Finish Care ............................................... 483
Windshield, Backglass, and

Wiper Blades ......................................... 484

Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels

and Trim ................................................ 484
Tires ......................................................... 485
Sheet Metal Damage ................................. 486
Finish Damage .......................................... 486
Underbody Maintenance ............................ 486
Chemical Paint Spotting ............................ 486
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ............ 487
Vehicle Identification .................................. 488
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ........... 488
Service Parts Identification Label ............... 488
Electrical System ........................................ 489
High Voltage Devices and Wiring .............. 489
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..................... 489
Windshield Wiper Fuses ............................ 490
Power Windows and Other

Power Options ....................................... 490
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ....................... 490
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..................... 490
Underhood Fuse Block .............................. 493
Capacities and Specifications .................... 497

Service Your dealer/retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer/retailer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Accessories and Modifications When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.

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California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.

Doing Your Own Service Work

{CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

(cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient

knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

(cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,

and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

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If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 535. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 90. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 514.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.

387

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 226. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by your warranty.

Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. For best performance or trailer towing, you could choose to use middle grade 89 octane unleaded gasoline. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 389 for additional information.

388

Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.

389

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.

Filling the Tank

{CAUTION:

Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.

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The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

To open the fuel door, push the rearward center edge in and release. The door will pop open.

To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.

391

If your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the TIGHTEN GAS CAP message will be displayed if the fuel cap is not properly installed.

{CAUTION:

If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to

Notice: get the right type. Your dealer/ retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 226.

{CAUTION:

Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 482. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 226.

392

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

{CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

(cid:129) Dispense gasoline only into approved

containers.

(cid:129) Do not fill a container while it is inside

a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

(cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping

gasoline.

(cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while

pumping gasoline.

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Checking Things Under the Hood

{CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

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Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

1. Pull the hood

release handle with this symbol on it. It is located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull the hood down to close. Lower the hood until the lifting pressure of the strut is reduced. Then allow the hood to fall and latch into place under its own weight. Check to make sure the hood is closed. If the hood does not fully latch, gently push the hood down at the front and center of the hood until it is completely latched.

2. At the front of the vehicle, pull up on the

center of the hood, and push the secondary hood release to the right.

3. After you have partially lifted the hood, gas struts will automatically take over to lift and hold the hood in the fully open position.

395

Engine Compartment Overview When you lift the hood, here is what you will see:

396

A. Radiator Pressure Cap (Out of View).

See Radiator Pressure Cap on page 410.

B. Engine Coolant Recovery Cap. See Cooling

System on page 413.

C. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse

Block on page 493.

D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump

Starting on page 425.

E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power

Steering Fluid on page 419.

F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine

Oil” under Engine Oil on page 397.

G. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 397.

H. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 404.

I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake

Fluid” under Brakes on page 421.

J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air

Cleaner/Filter on page 402.

K. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir.

See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 420.

Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396
for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil

several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper

towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

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When to Add Engine Oil

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.

If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 497. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.

Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use

These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

(cid:129) Oils meeting these

requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.

399

Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M

Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.

(cid:129) SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.

When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will come on. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection.

Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.

400

If your vehicle has a DIC: 1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off. 2. Press the MODE button until the DIC

reads OIL LIFE LEFT/HOLD SET TO RESET.

3. Press and hold the SET button until 100% is

displayed. You will hear three chimes and the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will go off.

4. Turn the key to OFF. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.

How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. If your vehicle does not have a Driver Information Center (DIC): 1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal

slowly three times within five seconds.

3. Turn the key to OFF.

If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.

401

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 502 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.

402

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396
for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter.

How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter (away from vehicle) to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Loosen the screws that hold the cover on. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Lift off the cover. 4. Remove the engine air cleaner/filter element

and any loose debris that may be found in the air cleaner base.

5. Inspect or replace the air filter element. 6. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the

cover and reconnect the electrical connector.

{CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire

Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.

403

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check the automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 504, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above

90°F (32°C).

(cid:129) At high speed for quite a while.

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

(cid:129) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.

404

(cid:129) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396
for more information on location. 1. Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean

rag or paper towel.

2. Reinstall back in all the way, wait

three seconds and then pull it back out again.

Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift

lever in PARK (P).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the

shift lever through each gear, pausing for about three seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

4. Let the engine run at idle for three to

five minutes.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The transmission fluid dipstick cap has this symbol on it, and is located near the front of the engine compartment.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the crosshatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range,

twist & lock dipstick cap in place.

405

How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Remove the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one half of a pint (0.25 L). Do not overfill.

Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained,

twist & lock dipstick cap in place.

406

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating or if you need to add coolant to the radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 410. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down to

−34°F (−37°C).

(cid:129) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:129) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

(cid:129) Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

If you use an improper coolant

Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts.

407

If you use extra inhibitors and/or

If coolant needs to be added more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check the cooling system. Notice: additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511 for more information.

Checking Coolant

The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396
for more information on the location of the coolant recovery tank. The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD line or a little higher. When the engine is warm, the level could be above the FULL COLD level. The FULL COLD line is marked on the coolant recovery tank.

408

Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See Engine Overheating on page 410.

{CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 413.

409

If the pressure cap is not tightly

Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396
for more information on location.

Engine Overheating There is an engine coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 225. Your vehicle may also have an ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE and ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE message displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 244.

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

410

CAUTION:

(Continued)

If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 412 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

If your engine catches fire because you

Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 412
for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:129) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic.

(cid:129) Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest

fan speed and open the windows as necessary.

3. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving — DRIVE (D) or LOW (L).

411

(cid:129) If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode lets your vehicle be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, there is a significant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage indicates an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 397.

412

Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

A. Engine Coolant Reservoir B. Radiator Pressure Cap (covered) C. Engine Cooling Fans

413

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at least up to the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

414

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant recovery tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 406 for more information.

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

415

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

In cold weather, water can freeze and

Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

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3. Keep turning the

pressure cap slowly, and remove it.

1. To remove the panel that covers the radiator

cap, detach fasteners and lift off panel.

2. Remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

4. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 406
for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

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5. Fill the coolant recovery tank to the FULL

COLD mark.

6. Reinstall the cap on the coolant recovery tank,

but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

7. Start the engine and let it run until you can

feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

8. By this time, the coolant level inside the

radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck. Replace the pressure cap.

At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure to secure it tightly.

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Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396
for reservoir location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine

compartment cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the

fluid level on the dipstick.

The fluid level should be somewhere within the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer

fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.

(cid:129) Fill the washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in

your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When adding windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer fluid reservoir is low, a WASHER FLUID LOW ADD FLUID message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 244 for more information.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396
for reservoir location.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have the brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.

So, it is not a good idea to top off the brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when the linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the brake warning light comes on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 222.

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What to Add When you need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 482.

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(cid:129) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten