2002 Chevrolet Trailblazer Owners Manual

instrument panel.

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the

secondary hood release.

3. Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer

and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. There may be a lamp that comes on when you open the hood.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood you’ll see the following:

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A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir D. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Indicator E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir F. Automatic Transmission Dipstick G. Engine Oil Dipstick H. Radiator Pressure Cap I. Engine Oil Fill Cap J. Front Engine Lift Bracket Marked “GND” K. Brake Master Cylinder L. Battery M. Engine Compartment Fuse Block

Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from its slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then pull the hood down firmly to close. It will latch when dropped from 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) without pressing on the hood.

Engine Oil If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “Check Oil Level Message” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow ring located in the engine compartment toward the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the F mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The engine oil fill cap is located in the engine compartment toward the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the L mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.

Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil. This is not based on mileage, but on engine revolutions and engine operating temperature. When the computer has calculated that the oil needs changing, the GM Oil Life Systemt will indicate that a change is necessary. The mileage between oil and filter changes will vary depending on how you drive your vehicle -- usually between 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and 12,000 miles (20 000 km) since your last oil and filter change. Under severe conditions, the system may come on before 3,000 miles (5 000 km). Never drive your vehicle more than 12,000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first) without an oil change. The system won’t detect dust in the oil. So, if you drive in a dusty area, be sure to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or sooner. Remember to reset the CHANGE ENG OIL light whenever the oil is changed.

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How to Reset the CHANGE ENG OIL Light To reset the CHANGE ENG OIL light, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal

three times within five seconds. If the CHANGE ENG OIL light flashes for five seconds, the system is reset. If the light does not flash, repeat the procedure.

What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

The engine air cleaner/filter is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

The engine air cleaner/filter assembly has an indicator that lets you know when the air filter is dirty and needs to be serviced. The indicator is located on the engine air cleaner/filter air duct.

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on engine air cleaner/filter location.

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on engine air cleaner/filter indicator location. The service window (A) with the percentage scale shows the amount of engine air cleaner/filter life used. When both service window (A) and service window (B) turn orange, replace the engine air cleaner/filter.

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After changing the engine air cleaner/filter, press the button on top of the indicator to reset it. See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index to determine when to check the indicator. To replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Remove the three screws on the engine air

cleaner/filter and lift off the cover.

2. Twist out the old engine air cleaner/filter and replace

it with a new one. 3. Reinstall the cover.

CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

NOTICE:

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

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Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50_F (10_C) or more. If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

Locate the handle with the transmission and lock symbols for the automatic transmission dipstick in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and

wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

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3. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push

the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level is from 0 to 3/8 inch (0 to 10 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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How to Check Lubricant

Four-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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Front Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Checking Coolant

The engine coolant recovery tank is in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be at the base of the filler neck or a little higher.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

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Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

Radiator Pressure Cap

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see “Cooling System” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating.

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for information on location.

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How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the C (cold) mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

NOTICE:

D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up.

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The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

Checking Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

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NOTICE:

D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for battery location. WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

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Bulb Replacement For the type of bulbs, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Taillamps and Rear Turn Signals 1. Open the liftgate.

2. Remove the two screws from the lamp assembly.

3. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle.

4. Unclip the wiring harness (A) and remove the three

socket retaining screws (B).

5. Remove the socket by releasing the retaining tabs. 6. Holding the socket, pull the bulb to release it from

the socket.

7. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 8. Reinstall the socket and screws. 9. Reconnect the wiring harness. 10. Reinstall the lamp assembly and tighten the screws. 11. Close the liftgate.

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1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm

until it locks into a vertical position.

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in the Index for more information. See “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index for the proper type of replacement blade.

NOTICE:

Use care when removing or installing a blade assembly. Accidental bumping can cause the arm to fall back and strike the windshield.

A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab

D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook

2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab.

Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.

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3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D),

notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.

5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.

A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation 6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm

hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly

onto the windshield.

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Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement See “Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement” in this section for instructions on how to change the backglass wiper blade. The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position like the windshield wiper blade, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Chevrolet Warranty booklet for details.

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CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

D Overinflated tires are more likely to be

cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your

tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Certification/Tire label, which is on the driver’s door edge, above the door latch, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy

NOTICE: (Continued)

NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” in the Index. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

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When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certification/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

D You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep

enough to show cord or fabric.

D The tire has a bump, bulge or split. D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.

CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

6-42

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.

6-44

Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

Used Replacement Wheels

CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

6-45

Tire Chains

CAUTION:

Don’t use tire chains. There’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels.

6-46

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: D Gasoline D Benzene D Naphtha D Carbon Tetrachloride D Acetone D Paint Thinner D Turpentine D Lacquer Thinner D Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: D Alcohol D Laundry Soap D Bleach D Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.

Here are some cleaning tips: D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. D Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. D Carefully scrape off any excess stain. D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean

area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.

D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the

entire area immediately or it will set.

Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section.

Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.

3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate

the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge

to remove any excess cleaner.

6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened

towel or cloth.

7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.

6-47

Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to

dry completely.

3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You

may have to do it more than once.

D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain

if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your

dealer for this product.

D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

6-48

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.

6-49

Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield, Backglass and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

6-50

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.

NOTICE:

Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.

6-51

Cleaning Aluminum Wheels Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.

Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.

NOTICE:

When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires.

Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.

6-52

Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, Chevrolet will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

6-53

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

6-54

Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the inside of the glove box. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is: D your VIN, D the model designation, D paint information and D a list of all production options and special equipment. Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.

6-55

Electrical System Add-On Electrical Equipment

NOTICE:

Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.

Headlamps The headlamp wiring is protected by four fuses. An electrical overload will cause a lamp to go on and off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away. Windshield Wipers The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow or ice, the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem, be sure to get it fixed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.

6-56

Engine Compartment Fuse Block

Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses and circuit breakers. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without -- like the radio or cigarette lighter -- and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can.

The fuse block is located under the hood in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Remove the cover by turning the fastener counterclockwise. To reinstall the fuse panel cover, push in and turn the fastener clockwise.

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6-58

Mini Fuses

10
11
12
13
14
15
16

Usage ECAS Passenger’s Side High-Beam Headlamp Passenger’s Side Low-Beam Headlamp Back-Up Trailer Lamps Driver’s Side High-Beam Headlamp Driver’s Side Low-Beam Headlamp WASH ATC Windshield Wipers Powertrain Control Module B Fog Lamps ST/LP Cigarette Lighter COILS RIDE TBD -- Ignition 1

Mini Fuses

17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24

25

26
27
28
29
30
31
50
51
52

Usage Crank Air Bag ELEK Brake Cooling Fan Horn Ignition E ETC Instrument Panel Cluster, Driver Information Center Automatic Shift Lock Control System ENG 1
Back-Up Powertrain Control Module 1
Oxygen Sensor Air Conditioning TBC Passenger’s Side Trailer TRN Driver’s Side Trailer TRN Hazard Flashers

6-59

J-Case Fuses

32
33
34
35
36

Micro Relays

37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44

Solid

State Relays

Usage Trailer Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) Ignition A Blower Motor Ignition B Usage Blank Rear Window Washer Fog Lamps Horn Fuel Pump Windshield Wipers/Washer High-Beam Headlamp Air Conditioning Usage

45
46

Cooling Fan HDM

6-60

Mini Relay

Usage Starter Miscellaneous Usage

47

48
49

Instrument Panel Battery Fuse Puller

Rear Underseat Fuse Block

The rear underseat fuse block is located under the rear seat on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

Fuse 01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
10
11
12
13
14
15
16

Usage Right Door Control Module Left Door Control Module LGM 2
TBC 3
Rear Fog Lamps LGM/DSM TBC 2
Power Seats Blank DDM AMP PDM Rear Climate Controls Left Rear Parking Lamps Auxiliary Power 2
VEH CHMSL

6-61

Usage Right Rear Parking Lamps LOCKS Blank Sunroof LOCK Blank UNLOCK Blank Blank OH Battery/OnStarR System Rainsense Wipers Parking Lamps TBC 4CC TBC5
Front Wipers VEH STOP Blank

Fuse 17
18
19
20
21
23
24
25
26
27
29
30
31
32
33
34
35

6-62

Fuse 36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52

Usage HVAC B Front Parking Lamps Left Turn Signal HVAC 1
TBC 4
Radio TR PARK Right Turn Signal HVAC Rear Fog Lamps Auxiliary Power 1
Ignition 0
Four-Wheel Drive Blank TBC IG Brakes TBC RUN

Number 3157
3157

Capacities Cooling System Crankcase Transmission

Replacement Bulbs Lamps

Tail and Stoplamps Rear Turn Signal Lamps

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer. Capacities and Specifications Engine Specifications Engine Description Type VIN Code Firing Order Spark Plug Gap

“VORTEC” 4200
L6
1-5-3-6-2-4
0.050 inches (1.25 mm)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . .

Wheel and Tires Wheel Nut Torque

. . . . . . . . . . .

100 lb-ft (140 N·m)

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

13.9 quarts (13.1 L) 7.0 quarts (6.6 L)

(Drain and Refill)

. . . . . . . . . . . .

5.0 quarts (4.7 L)

Differential Fluid

Rear Front

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4.0 pints (1.9 L) 2.6 pints (0.8 L) 18.7 U.S. gallons (75.7 L)

Fuel Tank

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

All capacities are approximate. When adding, be sure to fill to the appropriate level, as recommended in this manual. Recheck the fluid level after filling. Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts Engine Oil Filter Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Automatic Transmission

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

PF59* A2014C*

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Filter Kit Spark Plugs Fuel Filter Windshield Wiper Blade Backglass Wiper Blade

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

GM Part No. 24200796
41-965* GF831* 20.0 inches (50.8 cm) 14.0 inches (35.6 cm)

. . . . . . . . . . .

*ACDelcoR part number

6-63

Section 7 Maintenance Schedule

This section covers the maintenance required for your vehicle. Your vehicle needs these services to retain its safety, dependability and emission control performance.

7-2
7-4
7-5
7-15

Introduction Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services Scheduled Maintenance Part B: Owner Checks and Services

7-20
7-22
7-25

Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants Part E: Maintenance Record

7-

7-1

Introduction Your Vehicle and the Environment Proper vehicle maintenance not only helps to keep your vehicle in good working condition, but also helps the environment. All recommended maintenance procedures are important. Improper vehicle maintenance can even affect the quality of the air we breathe. Improper fluid levels or the wrong tire inflation can increase the level of emissions from your vehicle. To help protect our environment, and to keep your vehicle in good condition, please maintain your vehicle properly. Maintenance Requirements Maintenance intervals, checks, inspections and recommended fluids and lubricants as prescribed in this manual are necessary to keep your vehicle in good working condition. Any damage caused by failure to follow recommended maintenance may not be covered by warranty.

Have you purchased the GM Protection Plan? The Plan supplements your new vehicle warranties. See your Warranty and Owner Assistance booklet or your dealer for details.

7-2

How This Section is Organized This maintenance schedule is divided into five parts: “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services” explains what to have done and how often. Some of these services can be complex, so unless you are technically qualified and have the necessary equipment, you should let your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center do these jobs.

CAUTION:

Performing maintenance work on a vehicle can be dangerous. In trying to do some jobs, you can be seriously injured. Do your own maintenance work only if you have the required know-how and the proper tools and equipment for the job. If you have any doubt, have a qualified technician do the work.

If you want to get the service information, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.

“Part B: Owner Checks and Services” tells you what should be checked and when. It also explains what you can easily do to help keep your vehicle in good condition. “Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections” explains important inspections that your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center should perform. “Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” lists some recommended products necessary to help keep your vehicle properly maintained. These products, or their equivalents, should be used whether you do the work yourself or have it done. “Part E: Maintenance Record” is a place for you to record and keep track of the maintenance performed on your vehicle. Keep your maintenance receipts. They may be needed to qualify your vehicle for warranty repairs.

7-3

The proper fluids and lubricants to use are listed in Part D. Make sure whoever services your vehicle uses these. All parts should be replaced and all necessary repairs done before you or anyone else drives the vehicle. This schedule is for vehicles that: D carry passengers and cargo within recommended limits. You will find these limits on your vehicle’s Certification/Tire label. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

D are driven on reasonable road surfaces within legal

driving limits.

D are driven off-road in the recommended manner. See

“Off-Road Driving With Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle” in the Index.

D use the recommended fuel. See “Fuel” in the Index.

Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services Using Your Maintenance Schedule We at General Motors want to help you keep your vehicle in good working condition. But we don’t know exactly how you’ll drive it. You may drive very short distances only a few times a week. Or you may drive long distances all the time in very hot, dusty weather. You may use your vehicle in making deliveries. Or you may drive it to work, to do errands or in many other ways. Because of all the different ways people use their vehicles, maintenance needs vary. You may need more frequent checks and replacements. So please read the following and note how you drive. If you have any questions on how to keep your vehicle in good condition, see your dealer. This part tells you the maintenance services you should have done and when you should schedule them. If you go to your dealer for your service needs, you’ll know that GM-trained and supported service people will perform the work using genuine GM parts.

7-4

Scheduled Maintenance

The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles (166 000 km) should be performed after 100,000 miles (166 000 km) at the same intervals. The services shown at 150,000 miles (240 000 km) should be performed at the same interval after 150,000 miles (240 000 km). See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” following.

Footnotes [ The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the California Air Resources Board has determined that the failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance services be performed at the indicated intervals and the maintenance be recorded. + A good time to check your brakes is during tire rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C of this schedule.

7-5

Scheduled Maintenance

Engine Oil Scheduled Maintenance Change engine oil and filter as indicated by the GM Oil Life Systemt (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Reset the system. The system will show you when to change the oil -- usually between 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and 12,000 miles (20 000 km) since your last oil change. Under severe conditions, the indicator may come on before 3,000 miles (5 000 km). Never drive your vehicle more than 12,000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months without an oil and filter change.

The system won’t detect dust in the oil. So if you drive in a dusty area, be sure to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or sooner if the CHANGE ENG OIL light appears. Remember to reset the Oil Life System when the oil and filter have been changed. See “Oil Life System” in the Index for information on resetting. An Emission Control Service.

7-6

Scheduled Maintenance

7-7

Scheduled Maintenance

7-8

Scheduled Maintenance

7,500 Miles (12 500 km) j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant

velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.

j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

15,000 Miles (25 000 km) j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant

velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.

j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

22,500 Miles (37 500 km) j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant

velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.

j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

7-9

Scheduled Maintenance

30,000 Miles (50 000 km) j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant

velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.

j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

j Replace fuel filter.

An Emission Control Service. (See footnote [.)

37,500 Miles (62 500 km) j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant

velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.

j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

45,000 Miles (75 000 km) j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant

velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.

j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

7-10

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

Scheduled Maintenance

50,000 Miles (83 000 km) j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven

under one or more of these conditions: – In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches

90_F (32_C) or higher.

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

– In hilly or mountainous terrain. – When doing frequent trailer towing. – Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km).

j Automatic Transfer Case Only: Change transfer case fluid.

52,500 Miles (87 500 km) j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant

velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.

j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

7-11

Scheduled Maintenance

60,000 Miles (100 000 km) j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant

velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.

j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

j Inspect engine accessory drive belt.

An Emission Control Service.

j Replace fuel filter.

An Emission Control Service. (See footnote[.)

67,500 Miles (112 500 km) j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant