2002 Chevrolet Tracker Owners Manual

K. Coinholder

Ignition Switch

L. Power Remote Control Mirrors (If Equipped) M. Instrument Panel Brightness Thumbwheel N. Hood Release O. Instrument Panel Fuse Block P. Q. Cigarette Lighter/Accessory Power Outlet R. Power Mode Selector Switch (If Equipped) S. Shift Lever T. Ashtray U. Audio System V. Vent Shut-off Thumbwheel

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Instrument Panel Cluster Your instrument cluster is designed to let you know at a glance how your vehicle is running. You’ll know how fast you’re going, about how much fuel you have left, and many other things you’ll need to know to drive safely and economically.

United States cluster shown, Canada similar

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Speedometer and Odometer Your speedometer lets you see your speed in both miles per hour (mph) and kilometers per hour (km/h). Your odometer shows how far your vehicle has been driven, in either miles (used in the United States) or kilometers (used in Canada). Your vehicle’s odometer is tamper-resistant. You may wonder what happens if your vehicle needs a new odometer installed. If possible, the new one is to be set to the same reading as the old one. If it can’t be, then it’s set at zero. Then a label is attached on the driver’s door to show the old reading and when the new one was installed.

Trip Odometer The trip odometer can tell you how far your vehicle has been driven since you last set the trip odometer to zero. The button located to the right of the odometer display allows you to switch between the odometer and the two trip odometers. Press the button once to switch to TRIP A and again to switch to TRIP B. To return the display to the odometer reading, press the trip odometer button again. To set the trip odometers to zero, press and hold the button. Tachometer The tachometer shows engine speed in thousands of revolutions per minute (rpm). You can use it while driving to select correct shift points. The tachometer may not return to zero when the engine is not running.

NOTICE:

Do not operate the engine with the tachometer in the red area, or engine damage may occur.

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Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators This part describes the warning lights and gages that may be on your vehicle. The pictures will help you locate them. Warning lights and gages can signal that something is wrong before it becomes serious enough to cause an expensive repair or replacement. Paying attention to your warning lights and gages could also save you or others from injury. Warning lights come on when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. As you will see in the details on the next few pages, some warning lights come on briefly when you start the engine just to let you know they’re working. If you are familiar with this section, you should not be alarmed when this happens. Gages can indicate when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. Often gages and warning lights work together to let you know when there’s a problem with your vehicle.

When one of the warning lights comes on and stays on when you are driving, or when one of the gages shows there may be a problem, check the section that tells you what to do about it. Please follow this manual’s advice. Waiting to do repairs can be costly -- and even dangerous. So please get to know your warning lights and gages. They’re a big help. Safety Belt Reminder Light When the key is turned to ON or START, a tone will come on for several seconds to remind people to fasten their safety belts, unless the driver’s safety belt is already buckled.

The safety belt light will also come on and stay on until the driver’s belt is buckled.

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Air Bag Readiness Light There is an air bag readiness light on the instrument panel, which shows AIR BAG. The system checks the air bag’s electrical system for malfunctions. The light tells you if there is an electrical problem. The system check includes the air bag modules, and the crash sensing and diagnostic module. For more information on the air bag system, see “Air Bag” in the Index.

This light will come on when you start your vehicle, and it will flash for a few seconds. Then the light should go out. This means the system is ready.

If the air bag readiness light stays on after you start the vehicle or comes on when you are driving, your air bag system may not work properly. Have your vehicle serviced right away.

CAUTION:

If the air bag readiness light stays on after you start your vehicle, it means the air bag system may not be working properly. The air bags in your vehicle may not inflate in a crash, or they could even inflate without a crash. To help avoid injury to yourself or others, have your vehicle serviced right away if the air bag readiness light stays on after you start your vehicle.

The air bag readiness light should flash for a few seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON. If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.

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Charging System Light

This light will come on briefly when you turn on the ignition, but the engine is not running, as a check to show you it is working. Then it should go out when the engine starts.

If the light stays on or comes on while you are driving, you may have a problem with the electrical charging system. It could indicate that you have a loose generator drive belt or another electrical problem. Have it checked right away. Driving while this light is on could drain your battery. If you must drive a short distance with this light on, be certain to turn off all your accessories, such as the radio and air conditioner.

Brake System Warning Light When the ignition is on, the brake system warning light will come on when you set your parking brake. The light will stay on if your parking brake doesn’t release fully. If it stays on after your parking brake is fully released, it means you have a brake problem. Your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system is divided into two parts. If one part isn’t working, the other part can still work and stop you. For good braking, though, you need both parts working well. If the warning light comes on, there could be a brake problem. Have your brake system inspected right away.

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CAUTION:

Your brake system may not be working properly if the brake system warning light is on. Driving with the brake system warning light on can lead to an accident. If the light is still on after you’ve pulled off the road and stopped carefully, have the vehicle towed for service.

United States

Canada

This light should come on when you turn the ignition key to START. If it doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there’s a problem. If the light comes on while you are driving, pull off the road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor. It may take longer to stop. If the light is still on, have the vehicle towed for service. See “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” and “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

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Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light (Option)

CAUTION:

With the anti-lock brake system, this light will come on when you start your engine and it will stay on for three seconds. That’s normal.

If the light comes on when you’re driving, you don’t have anti-lock brakes and there could be a problem with your regular brakes. Pull off the road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor. It may take longer to stop. Have the vehicle towed for service. See “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

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Your regular brake system may not be working properly if the anti-lock brake system warning light is on. Driving with the anti-lock brake system warning light on can lead to an accident. After you’ve pulled off the road and stopped carefully, have the vehicle towed for service.

If the anti-lock brake system warning light stays on longer than normal after you’ve started your engine, turn the ignition off. Or, if the light comes on and stays on when you’re driving, stop as soon as possible and turn the ignition off. Then start the engine again to reset the system. If the light still stays on, or comes on again while you’re driving, your vehicle needs service. If the light is on and the regular brake system warning light isn’t on, you still have brakes, but you don’t have anti-lock brakes. The anti-lock brake system warning light should come on briefly when you turn the ignition key to ON. If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.

Engine Coolant Temperature Gage

This gage shows the engine coolant temperature. If the gage pointer moves to the H (red) side, your engine is too hot.

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Service Engine Soon Light)

Your vehicle is equipped with a computer which monitors operation of the fuel, ignition and emission control systems.

It means that your engine coolant has overheated and you should stop your vehicle and turn off the engine as soon as possible. The “Problems on the Road” section of this manual shows what to do. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

This system is called OBD II (On-Board Diagnostics-Second Generation) and is intended to assure that emissions are at acceptable levels for the life of the vehicle, helping to produce a cleaner environment. The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light comes on to indicate that there is a problem and service is required. Malfunctions often will be indicated by the system before any problem is apparent. This may prevent more serious damage to your vehicle. This system is also designed to assist your service technician in correctly diagnosing any malfunction.

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This light should come on, as a check to show you it is working, when the ignition is on and the engine is not running. If the light doesn’t come on, have it repaired. This light will also come on during a malfunction in one of two ways: D Light Flashing -- A misfire condition has been

detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions and may damage the emission control system on your vehicle. Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis and service may be required.

D Light On Steady -- An emission control system malfunction has been detected on your vehicle. Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis and service may be required.

NOTICE:

If you keep driving your vehicle with this light on, after a while, your emission controls may not work as well, your fuel economy may not be as good and your engine may not run as smoothly. This could lead to costly repairs that may not be covered by your warranty.

NOTICE:

Modifications made to the engine, transmission, exhaust, intake or fuel system of your vehicle or the replacement of the original tires with other than those of the same Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) can affect your vehicle’s emission controls and may cause the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light to come on. Modifications to these systems could lead to costly repairs not covered by your warranty. This may also result in a failure to pass a required Emission Inspection/Maintenance test.

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If the Light Is Flashing The following may prevent more serious damage to your vehicle: D Reducing vehicle speed. D Avoiding hard accelerations. D Avoiding steep uphill grades. D If you are towing a trailer, reduce the amount of

cargo being hauled as soon as it is possible.

If the light stops flashing and remains on steady, see “If the Light Is On Steady” following. If the light continues to flash, when it is safe to do so, stop the vehicle. Find a safe place to park your vehicle. Turn the key off, wait at least 10 seconds and restart the engine. If the light remains on steady, see “If the Light Is On Steady” following. If the light is still flashing, follow the previous steps, and drive the vehicle to your dealer or qualified service center for service.

If the Light Is On Steady You may be able to correct the emission system malfunction by considering the following: Did you recently put fuel into your vehicle? If so, reinstall the fuel cap, making sure to fully install the cap. See “Filling Your Tank” in the Index. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. A loose or missing fuel cap will allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. A few driving trips with the cap properly installed should turn the light off. Did you just drive through a deep puddle of water? If so, your electrical system may be wet. The condition will usually be corrected when the electrical system dries out. A few driving trips should turn the light off. Are you low on fuel? As your engine starts to run out of fuel, your engine may not run as efficiently as designed since small amounts of air are sucked into the fuel line causing a misfire. The system can detect this. Adding fuel should correct this condition. Make sure to install the fuel cap properly. See “Filling Your Tank” in the Index. It will take a few driving trips to turn the light off.

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Have you recently changed brands of fuel? If so, be sure to fuel your vehicle with quality fuel. See “Fuel” in the Index. Poor fuel quality will cause your engine not to run as efficiently as designed. You may notice this as stalling after start-up, stalling when you put the vehicle into gear, misfiring, hesitation on acceleration or stumbling on acceleration. (These conditions may go away once the engine is warmed up.) This will be detected by the system and cause the light to turn on. If you experience one or more of these conditions, change the fuel brand you use. It will require at least one full tank of the proper fuel to turn the light off. If none of the above steps have made the light turn off, have your dealer or qualified service center check the vehicle. Your dealer has the proper test equipment and diagnostic tools to fix any mechanical or electrical problems that may have developed.

Emissions Inspection and Maintenance Programs Some state/provincial and local governments have or may begin programs to inspect the emission control equipment on your vehicle. Failure to pass this inspection could prevent you from getting a vehicle registration. Here are some things you need to know in order to help your vehicle pass an inspection: Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light is on or not working properly. Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the OBD (on-board diagnostic) system determines that critical emission control systems have not been completely diagnosed by the system. The vehicle would be considered not ready for inspection. This can happen if you have recently replaced your battery or if your battery has run down. The diagnostic system is designed to evaluate critical emission control systems during normal driving. This may take several days of routine driving. If you have done this and your vehicle still does not pass the inspection for lack of OBD system readiness, see your dealer or qualified service center to prepare the vehicle for inspection.

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Oil Pressure Light

If you have a problem with your oil, this light may stay on after you start your engine, or come on when you are driving.

This indicates that there is not enough pressure to keep your engine properly lubricated and cool. The engine could be low on oil, or have some other oil related problem. Have it fixed right away. The oil light could also come on in three other situations. D When the ignition is on but the engine is not running,

the light will come on as a test to show you it is working, but the light will go out when you turn the engine to START. If it doesn’t come on with the ignition on, you may have a problem with the fuse or bulb. Have it fixed right away.

D Sometimes when the engine is idling at a stop, the light may blink on and off. This is normal.

D If you make a hard stop, the light may come on

for a moment. This is normal.

CAUTION:

Don’t keep driving if the oil pressure is low. If you do, your engine can become so hot that it catches fire. You or others could be burned. Check your oil as soon as possible and have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Damage to your engine from neglected oil problems can be costly and is not covered by your warranty.

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Four-Wheel-Drive Light (If Equipped)

Overdrive Off Light (If Equipped)

This light comes on when the ignition switch is on and the transfer case lever is in one of the four-wheel drive positions.

This light comes on when the automatic four-speed transmission has been converted to the three-speed mode and the overdrive is turned off.

See “Four-Wheel Drive” in the Index. Power Indicator Light (If Equipped)

This light also comes on as a check for approximately five seconds when the ignition key is turned to ON or START.

This light comes on when the power mode selector switch is turned to P (power) with the ignition switch in the ON position.

This light comes on as a check for approximately five seconds when the ignition key is turned to ON or START.

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Fuel Gage

Your fuel gage shows about how much fuel is in your tank. When the gage first indicates E (empty), you still have about one or two gallons (4 to 8 L) of fuel left in your tank, but you need to get more right away.

Here are four concerns some owners have had about the fuel gage. All these situations are normal and do not indicate that anything is wrong with the fuel gage. D At the gas station, the fuel pump shuts off before

the gage reads F (full).

D It takes more (or less) fuel to fill up than the gage reads. For example, the gage reads half full, but it took more (or less) than half of the tank’s capacity to fill it.

D The gage moves a little when you turn, stop or

speed up.

D When you turn the engine off, the gage doesn’t go

back to E (empty).

D It takes several minutes for the gage to read F (full)

after filling the tank.

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Section 3 Comfort Controls and Audio Systems

In this section, you’ll find out how to operate the comfort control and audio systems offered with your vehicle. Be sure to read about the particular systems supplied with your vehicle.

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Comfort Controls Climate Control System Air Conditioner Controls Heating Defogging and Defrosting Rear Window Defogger (If Equipped) Ventilation System Audio Systems

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Setting the Clock AM-FM Stereo with Compact Disc Player Understanding Radio Reception Tips About Your Audio System Care of Your Compact Discs Care of Your Compact Disc Player Fixed Mast Antenna

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Comfort Controls With this system, you can control the heating, cooling and ventilation in your vehicle. Your vehicle also has the flow-through ventilation system described later in this section. Climate Control System

Airflow Lever

(Vent): This position directs the airflow through the

instrument panel vents.

(Bi-level): This position directs air through the

instrument panel vents and toward the floor.

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(Floor): This position directs air toward the floor

and through the right and left side vents. The side vents can be shut off by closing the thumbwheel to allow for more air to be directed toward the floor.

(Defog): This position directs air toward the floor,

the windshield and side windows. The air also comes from both vents at the ends of the instrument panel if the thumbwheel below them is in the open position. The air conditioning compressor will run automatically in this setting without pressing A/C.

(Defrost): This position directs air to the

windshield and side windows. The air also comes from both vents at the ends of the instrument panel if the thumbwheel below them is in the open position. The air conditioning compressor will run automatically in this setting without pressing A/C. For maximum defrosting and defogging, adjust the temperature control lever to the hot end, move the air intake lever to outside air and shut off airflow to the outside instrument panel vents by closing the thumbwheels to increase air through the side defroster vents.

Fan Lever Slide the lever located on the upper right side away from OFF to turn the system on. Move the lever toward the fan symbol to increase the fan’s speed.

Temperature Lever Slide the lever located on the lower left side to change the temperature of the air flowing from the system. Move it to the right for warmer air and to the left for cooler air. Without air conditioning, the air temperature cannot be less than the outside air temperature.

Air Intake Lever

(Recirculate): Choose this position to recirculate

the inside air through the comfort control system.

(Outside Air): Choose this position to circulate

outside air through the comfort control system.

Air Conditioner Controls

The air conditioning system uses the same controls as described previously. The function of each lever is explained under “Climate Control System” in this part. When on, the incoming air will be cooled and dehumidified.

A/C (Air Conditioning): Press the A/C button to change your comfort control system to air conditioning. A light will come on in the button when the air conditioning is on. Air conditioning can also control the humidity in your vehicle. The air conditioner works best if you keep your windows closed. On very hot days, open the windows just long enough for the hot air to escape.

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For normal cooling, press the A/C button and slide the air intake lever to outside air. For faster cooling, slide the lever to recirculate. Then slide the airflow lever to vent, the temperature lever toward the left and the fan lever toward the fan symbol. On days when it is raining or the humidity is high, follow these dehumidifying steps to help clean windows that are cloudy with moisture. 1. Slide the air intake lever to outside air. 2. Slide the airflow lever to defrost and the fan lever

toward the fan symbol.

3. Adjust the temperature lever to a comfortable setting. The air conditioning compressor will run automatically when the airflow lever is in defog or defrost. The A/C button will illuminate, only if it is pressed, in the defog or defrost modes.

Heating For the quickest results, slide the air intake lever to recirculate. Slide the airflow lever to floor, the temperature lever toward the right for warmer air and the fan lever toward the fan symbol. You should switch to outside air once in a while to avoid stale air and cloudy windows. Defogging and Defrosting Slide the air intake lever to outside air and the airflow lever to defrost to direct air to the windshield vents. Then slide the temperature lever toward the right and the fan lever toward the fan symbol. When the windshield is clear, turn down the fan speed.

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Rear Window Defogger (If Equipped) If your vehicle has this feature, the rear window defogger uses a warming grid to remove fog from the rear window.

The button is located on the center of the instrument panel, near the vehicle’s comfort controls.

Press the button to turn on the defogger. An indicator light in the button will come on to remind you that the defogger is on. The rear window defogger will turn itself off after about 15 minutes. You can also turn it off by pressing the button again. Do not attach anything like a temporary vehicle license or a decal across the defogger grid on the rear window.

NOTICE:

Don’t use a razor blade or something else sharp on the inside of the rear window. If you do, you could cut or damage the warming grid, and the repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

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Ventilation System For mild outside temperatures, when little heating or cooling is needed, you can direct outside air through your vehicle. Slide the air intake lever to outside air and the airflow lever to bi-level. Adjust the temperature control lever to a comfortable setting and slide the fan lever toward the fan symbol. Your vehicle’s flow-through ventilation system supplies outside air into the vehicle when it is moving. Outside air will also enter the vehicle when the fan is running and the air intake lever is at outside air.

Your vehicle has air outlets that allow you to adjust the direction and amount of airflow inside the vehicle.

You can direct the airflow side-to-side by moving the control located in the center of the vent. The vent can be tilted up and down also. To control the amount of airflow though the outlets, turn the thumbwheel below the vent. The airflow from this vent cannot be controlled by the airflow lever.

Ventilation Tips Keep the hood and front air inlet free of ice, snow or any other obstruction (such as leaves). The heater and defroster will work far better, reducing the chance of fogging the inside of your windows. When you enter a vehicle in cold weather, move the fan control lever toward the fan symbol for a few moments before driving off. This helps clear the intake ducts of snow and moisture, and reduces the chance of fogging the inside of your windows. Keep the air path under the front seats clear of objects. This helps air to circulate throughout your vehicle.

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Audio Systems Your audio system has been designed to operate easily and give years of listening pleasure. You will get the most enjoyment out of it if you acquaint yourself with it first. Find out what your audio system can do and how to operate all of its controls to be sure you’re getting the most out of the advanced engineering that went into it. Setting the Clock Press and hold the HR or MIN arrow for two seconds. Then press the HR arrow until the correct hour appears. Press and hold the MIN arrow until the correct minute appears. The clock may be set with the ignition on or off.

AM-FM Stereo with Compact Disc Player

Playing the Radio PWR (Power): Press this knob to turn the system on and off. VOL (Volume): Turn the knob clockwise to increase volume. Turn it counterclockwise to decrease volume. RCL (Recall): Pressing this knob will display the station being played or it will display the clock. Clock display is available with the ignition turned off.

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Finding a Station AM FM: Press this button to switch between AM, FM1 and FM2. The display shows your selection. TUNE: Turn this knob to choose radio stations.

SEEK SEEK

: Press the right or left arrow to

tune to the next or previous station and stay there. The radio will seek to stations with a strong signal only. To scan stations, press and hold one of the SEEK arrows for two seconds until you hear a beep. The radio will go to a station, play for a few seconds and flash the station frequency, then go on to the next station. Press one of the SEEK arrows again to stop scanning. The radio will scan to stations with a strong signal only. To scan preset stations, press and hold one of the SEEK arrows for more than four seconds until you hear two beeps. The radio will go to the first preset station stored on your pushbuttons, play for a few seconds and flash the station frequency, then go on to the next preset station. This feature will only scan the six presets that are in the selected band. Press one of the SEEK arrows again to stop scanning presets. The channel number (P1 through P6) will appear momentarily just before the frequency is displayed. The radio will scan preset stations with a strong signal only.

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Setting Preset Stations The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to 18 stations (six AM, six FM1 and six FM2) by performing the following steps: 1. Turn the radio on. 2. Press AM FM to select AM, FM1 or FM2. 3. Tune in the desired station. 4. Press and hold one of the six numbered pushbuttons

until you hear a beep. Whenever you press that numbered pushbutton, the station you set will return.

5. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.

Setting the Tone (Bass/Treble) AUDIO: To adjust the bass, press and release the AUDIO button repeatedly until BAS appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to increase bass. B and a positive number will appear on the display. Press and hold the down arrow to decrease bass. B and a negative number will appear on the display. B and a zero will appear on the display when the bass level is adjusted to the middle position. Release the up or down arrow when you find the bass level you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached.

To adjust the treble, press and release the AUDIO button until TRE appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to increase treble. T and a positive number will appear on the display. Press and hold the down arrow to decrease treble. T and a negative number will appear on the display. T and a zero will appear on the display when the treble level is adjusted to the middle position. Release the up or down arrow when you find the treble level you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the treble. To adjust bass or treble to the middle position, select BAS or TRE. Then press and hold the AUDIO button for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. B and a zero or T and a zero will appear on the display. To adjust both tone controls and both speaker controls to the middle position, end out of audio mode by pressing another button, which the radio will perform that function, or by waiting five seconds which the radio will go to the clock display. Then press and hold the AUDIO button for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. CEN will appear on the display.

Adjusting the Speakers (Balance/Fade) AUDIO: To adjust the balance between the right and left speakers, press and release the AUDIO button until BAL appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to move the sound to the right speakers or the down arrow to move the sound to the left speakers. R and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the right speakers. L and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the left speakers. L and a zero will appear on the display when the sound is balanced between the speakers. Release the up or down arrow when you find the speaker balance you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached. To adjust the fade between the front and rear speakers, press and release the AUDIO button until FAD appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to move the sound to the front speakers or the down arrow to move the sound to the rear speakers. F and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the front speakers. R and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the rear speakers. F and a zero will appear on the display when the sound is balanced between the speakers. Release the up or down arrow when you find the speaker balance you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached.

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To adjust balance or fade to the middle position, select BAL or FAD. Then press and hold AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. L and a zero or F and a zero will appear on the display. To adjust both tone controls and both speaker controls to the middle position, end out of audio mode by pressing another button, which the radio will perform that function, or by waiting five seconds which the radio will go to the clock display. Then press and hold AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. CEN will appear on the display.

Radio Messages CAL (Calibration): Your audio system has been calibrated for your vehicle from the factory. If CAL appears on the display it means that your radio has not been configured properly for your vehicle and must be returned to the dealership for service.

Playing a Compact Disc Insert a disc partway into the slot, label side up. The player will pull it in. The disc should begin playing. The display will show CD. If you want to insert a compact disc with the ignition off, first press RCL or the eject button. If an error appears on the display, see “Compact Disc Messages” later in this section.

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1 PREV (Previous): Press this pushbutton or the left SEEK arrow to go to the previous track if the current track has been playing for less than eight seconds. If this pushbutton or the left SEEK arrow is pressed and the current track has been playing for more than eight seconds, it will go to the beginning of the current track. The track number will appear on the display. If you hold the pushbutton or press it more than once, the player will continue moving back through the disc. The sound will mute while seeking. 2 NEXT: Press this pushbutton or the right SEEK arrow to go to the next track. The track number will appear on the display. If you hold the pushbutton or press it more than once, the player will continue moving forward through the disc. The sound will mute while seeking. 3 REV (Reverse): Press and hold this pushbutton to reverse quickly within a track. Release it to play the passage. The display will show elapsed time while reversing. 4 FWD (Forward): Press and hold this pushbutton to advance quickly within a track. Release it to play the passage. The display will show elapsed time while forwarding.

5 RDM (Random): Press this pushbutton to hear the tracks in random, rather than sequential, order. RND will show on the display. Press RDM again to turn off random play. OFF will appear on the display. 6 RPT (Repeat): Press this pushbutton once to hear a track over again. RPT will appear on the display. The current track will continue to repeat. Press RPT again to turn off repeated play. OFF will appear on the display. RCL (Recall): Press this button to see the current track number or how long the current track has been playing. AM FM: Press this button to play the radio when a disc is in the player. The disc will stop but remain in the player. CD: With a compact disc in the player and the radio playing, press this button to play a compact disc. CD will appear on the display. Press AM FM to return to the radio when a compact disc is playing. The inactive CD will remain safely inside the radio for future listening. (Eject): Press this button to eject a CD. Eject may

be activated with either the ignition or radio off. CDs may be loaded with the radio and ignition off if this button is pressed first.

Compact Disc Messages If the disc comes out, it could be for one of the following reasons: D If you’re driving on a very rough road. When the

road becomes smooth the disc should play.

D If it’s very hot. When the temperature returns to

normal, the disc should play.

D The disc is upside down. D It is dirty, scratched or wet. D The air is very humid. (If so, wait about an hour

and try again.)

D If the CD is not playing correctly, for any other

reason, try a known good CD.

If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error can’t be corrected, contact your dealer.

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Understanding Radio Reception

AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it.

FM Stereo FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go. Tips About Your Audio System Hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud and harmful to your hearing. Take precautions by adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe sound level before your hearing adapts to it.

To help avoid hearing loss or damage do the following: 1. Adjust the volume knob to the lowest setting. 2. Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably

and clearly.

NOTICE:

Before you add any sound equipment to your vehicle -- like a tape player, CB radio, mobile telephone or two-way radio -- be sure you can add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to do it properly. Added sound equipment may interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine, Delphi Electronics radio or other systems, and even damage them. Your vehicle’s systems may interfere with the operation of sound equipment that has been added improperly. So, before adding sound equipment, check with your dealer and be sure to check federal rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.

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Care of Your Compact Discs Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge. Be sure never to touch the side without writing when handling discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge. Care of Your Compact Disc Player The use of CD lens cleaner discs is not advised, due to the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics with lubricants internal to the CD mechanism.

Fixed Mast Antenna The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should replace it. Check every once in a while to be sure the mast is still tightened to the base of the antenna which is located on the fender. If tightening is required, tighten by hand, then with a wrench one quarter turn.

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Section 4 Your Driving and the Road

Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions. We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.

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Your Driving, the Road and Your Vehicle Defensive Driving Drunken Driving Control of a Vehicle Braking Steering Off-Road Recovery Passing Loss of Control Off-Road Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle

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Driving at Night Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads City Driving Freeway Driving Before Leaving on a Long Trip Highway Hypnosis Hill and Mountain Roads Winter Driving Recreational Vehicle Towing Loading Your Vehicle Towing a Trailer

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But statistics show that the most important factor, by far, is how we drive. Knowing how these three factors work together can help you understand how your vehicle handles and what you can do to avoid many types of crashes, including a rollover crash. Driver Behavior The single most important thing is this: everyone in the vehicle, including the driver, should buckle up. See “Safety Belts” in the Index. In fact, most serious injuries and fatalities to unbelted occupants can be reduced or prevented by the use of safety belts. In a rollover crash, an unbelted person is significantly more likely to die than a person wearing a seat belt. In addition, avoiding excessive speed, sudden or abrupt turns and drunken or aggressive driving can help make trips safer and avoid the possibility of a crash, especially a rollover crash. This section provides many useful tips to help you drive more safely. Driving Environment You can also help avoid a rollover or other type of crash by being prepared for driving in inclement weather, at night, or during other times where visibility or traction may be limited (such as on curves, slippery roads or hilly terrain).

Your Driving, the Road and Your Vehicle Whenever we drive, we’re taking on an important responsibility. This is true for any motor vehicle -- passenger car, van, truck or sport utility. Driver behavior, the driving environment, and the vehicle’s design all affect how well a vehicle performs.

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Unfamiliar surroundings can also have hidden hazards. To help you learn more about driving in different conditions, this section contains information about city, freeway, and off-road driving, as well as other hints for driving in various weather conditions. Vehicle Design According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, utility vehicles have a significantly higher rollover rate than other types of vehicles. Utility vehicles do have a higher ground clearance and a narrower track or shorter wheelbase than passenger cars to make them more capable for off-road driving. Specific design characteristics like these give the driver a better view of the road, but also give utility vehicles a higher center of gravity than other types of vehicles. This means that you shouldn’t expect a utility vehicle to handle the same way a vehicle with a lower center of gravity, like a car, would in similar situations. But driver behavior factors are far more often the cause of a utility vehicle rollover than are environmental or vehicle factors. Safe driver behavior and understanding the environment in which you’ll be driving can help avoid a rollover crash in any type of vehicle, including utility vehicles.

Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. See “Safety Belts” in the Index. Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task -- such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the floor -- makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.

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Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: D Judgment D Muscular Coordination D Vision D Attentiveness. Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, about 16,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured.

Many adults -- by some estimates, nearly half the adult population -- choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to solve the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things: D The amount of alcohol consumed D The drinker’s body weight D The amount of food that is consumed before

and during drinking

D The length of time it has taken the drinker to

consume the alcohol.

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According to the American Medical Association, a 180-lb. (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.

It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks. The law in an increasing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, sets the legal limit at 0.08 percent. In some other countries, the limit is even lower. For example, it is 0.05 percent in both France and Germany. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them.

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But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater! The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision.

There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking -- driver or passenger -- is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

CAUTION:

Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious -- or even fatal -- collision if you drive after drinking. Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

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Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle.

Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.

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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking -- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

Anti-Lock Brake System (Option) Your vehicle may have anti-lock brakes. ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid.

If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, this warning light on the instrument panel will come on briefly when you start your vehicle.

When you start your engine, or when you begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves or pulses a little. This is normal. If there’s a problem with the anti-lock brake system, the anti-lock brake system warning light will stay on. See “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

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A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at both rear wheels. The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.

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Let’s say the road is wet and you’re driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here’s what happens with ABS:

As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes. Using Anti-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel a slight brake pedal pulsation or notice some noise, but this is normal.

Braking in Emergencies At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation that requires hard braking. If you have anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. However, if you don’t have anti-lock, your first reaction -- to hit the brake pedal hard and hold it down -- may be the wrong thing to do. Your wheels can stop rolling. Once they do, the vehicle can’t respond to your steering. Momentum will carry it in whatever direction it was headed when the wheels stopped rolling. That could be off the road, into the very thing you were trying to avoid, or into traffic. If you don’t have anti-lock, use a “squeeze” braking technique. This will give you maximum braking while maintaining steering control. You do this by pushing on the brake pedal with steadily increasing pressure. In an emergency, you will probably want to squeeze the brakes hard without locking the wheels. If you hear or feel the wheels sliding, ease off the brake pedal. This will help you retain steering control. If you do have anti-lock, it’s different. See “Anti-Lock Brakes” in the Index. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.

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Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.

Steering Tips Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.

Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control systems -- steering and braking -- have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Unless you have four-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard braking can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. The same thing can happen if you’re steering through a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems -- steering and acceleration -- can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.

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Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking -- if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action -- steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes -- but, unless you have anti-lock, not enough to lock your wheels. See “Braking in Emergencies” earlier in this section. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

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An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

Off-Road Recovery You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents -- the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing: D “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and

to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. D Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines.

If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.

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D Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.)

D Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time

on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.

D Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.

Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. D If you’re being passed, make it easy for the

following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

D Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.

D When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up,

start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.

D If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.

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Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs.

Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow down when you have any doubt. If you have the anti-lock braking system, remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have anti-lock, then in a braking skid (where the wheels are no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.

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Off-Road Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle This off-road guide is for vehicles that have four-wheel drive. Also, see “Anti-Lock Brakes” in the Index. If your vehicle doesn’t have four-wheel drive, you shouldn’t drive off-road unless you’re on a level, solid surface. Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. “Off-roading” means you’ve left the great North American road system behind. Traffic lanes aren’t marked. Curves aren’t banked. There are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill. In short, you’ve gone right back to nature. Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that’s why it’s very important that you read this guide. You’ll find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable.

Before You Go Off-Roading There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Check to make sure all underbody shields (if so equipped) are properly attached. Be sure you read all the information about your four-wheel-drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you’ll be driving? If you don’t know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission. Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle. D The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can.

D Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on

the off-road terrain doesn’t toss things around.

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CAUTION:

D Cargo on the load floor piled higher than the

seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.

D Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be

tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.

D Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.

You’ll find other important information in this manual. See “Vehicle Loading,” “Luggage Carrier” and “Tires” in the Index.

Environmental Concerns Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. Chevrolet recognizes these concerns and urges every off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment: D Always use established trails, roads and areas that

have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving; obey all posted regulations. D Avoid any driving practice that could damage the environment -- shrubs, flowers, trees, grasses -- or disturb wildlife (this includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground).

D Always carry a litter bag . . . make sure all refuse is

removed from any campsite before leaving.

D Take extreme care with open fires (where permitted),

camp stoves and lanterns.

D Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other combustible materials that could catch fire from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.

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Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads. It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly. Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you’ll want to know how to use it properly. Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and different driving skills. Here’s what we mean. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet and body, you’ll need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.

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Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds: D you approach things faster and you have less time

to scan the terrain for obstacles.

D you have less time to react. D you have more vehicle bounce when you drive

over obstacles.

D you’ll need more distance for braking, especially

since you’re on an unpaved surface.

CAUTION:

When you’re driving off-road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you’re driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider. Surface Conditions. Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction and longer braking distances. Surface Obstacles. Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut or bump can startle you if you’re not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider: D Is the path ahead clear? D Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? D Does the travel take you uphill or downhill?

(There’s more discussion of these subjects later.)

D Will you have to stop suddenly or change

direction quickly?

When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you’re not prepared. When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you can’t control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what isn’t. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious -- or even fatal -- accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. See “Drunken Driving” in the Index.

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Driving on Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and can’t do. There are some hills that simply can’t be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

CAUTION:

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you can’t control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, don’t drive the hill.

Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it’s one of those hills that’s just too steep to climb, descend or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge.

On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs. Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill. D Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get

sharply steeper in places?

D Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the

surface cause tire slipping?

D Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you

won’t have to make turning maneuvers?

D Are there obstructions on the hill that can block

your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)?

D What’s beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an

embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you don’t know. It’s the smart way to find out.

D Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have

ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

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Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps. D Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the

steering wheel.

D Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain your speed. Don’t use more power than you need, because you don’t want your wheels to start spinning or sliding.

D Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible.

If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

CAUTION:

Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

D Ease up on your speed as you approach the top

of the hill.

D Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible

to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

D Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to

let opposing traffic know you’re there.

D Use your headlamps even during the day. They make

you more visible to oncoming traffic.

CAUTION:

Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

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Q: What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is

about to stall, and I can’t make it up the hill? A: If this happens, there are some things you should

do, and there are some things you must not do. First, here’s what you should do:

D Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and

keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.

D If your engine is still running, shift the transmission

to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).

D If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or, shift to neutral if your vehicle has a manual transmission) and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).

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D As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand

on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It’s best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill. D Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into

NEUTRAL (N) (or pressing the clutch, if you have a manual transmission) to “rev-up” the engine and regain forward momentum. This won’t work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control. Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

D Never attempt to turn around if you are about to

stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down

the hill and decide I just can’t do it. What should I do?

A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission in FIRST (1)) and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

CAUTION:

Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) (or, if you have the manual transmission, even if you’re in gear). This is because the NEUTRAL position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or, put your manual transmission in FIRST (1)). But do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. Leave the transfer case in the 2H, 4H or 4L position.

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Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you’ll want to consider a number of things: D How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to

maintain vehicle control?

D What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough?

Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?

D Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts?

Logs? Boulders?

D What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden

creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

CAUTION:

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

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Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill? A: It’s much more likely to happen going uphill.

But if it happens going downhill, here’s what to do.

D Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.

Apply the parking brake.

D Shift to PARK (P) (or to neutral with the

manual transmission) and, while still braking, restart the engine.

D Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,

and drive straight down.

D If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.

Q: Are there some things I should not do when

driving down a hill?

A: Yes! These are important because if you

ignore them you could lose control and have a serious accident.

D When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that’s not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down.

D Never go downhill with the transmission in

NEUTRAL (N), or with the clutch pedal pressed down in a manual shift. This is called “free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

D Unless you have anti-lock: Avoid braking so hard

that you lock the wheels when going downhill. If your wheels are locked, you can’t steer your vehicle. If your wheels lock up during downhill braking, you may feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways. To regain your direction, just ease off the brakes and steer to keep the front of the vehicle pointing straight downhill.

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D Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the

incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.

For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

CAUTION:

Driving across an incline that’s too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about t he steepness of the incline, don’t drive across it. Find another route instead.

Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider: D A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be

too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

D Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over.

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Q: What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do?

A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

Stalling on an Incline If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you’ll be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

CAUTION:

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

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Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances. It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud -- the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck. When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve traction.

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

CAUTION:

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

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Driving in Water Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or exhaust pipe, don’t try it -- you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts. If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

CAUTION:

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it’s only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing water.

See “Driving Through Water” in the Index for more information on driving through water.

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Driving at Night

After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

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Here are some tips on night driving. D Drive defensively. D Don’t drink and drive. D Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the

glare from headlamps behind you.

D Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.

D Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your

headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.

D In remote areas, watch for animals. D If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place

and rest.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.

You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.

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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

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CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.

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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning.