1993 Chevrolet Tracker Owners Manual

judgment will be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious - or even fatal - accident if you drive after drinking. Please don't drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you're with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

I Conboi of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road. Sometimes, as when you're driving on snow or ice, it's easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle.

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Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second,

a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could. be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; and the condition of your brakes. Most drivers treat their brakes with care. Some, however, overwork the braking system with poor driving habits.

Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts - heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking - rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. Don’t “ride” the brakes by letting your left foot rest lightly on the brake pedal while driving.

Your Driving

GAU I IUN

A “Riding” your brakes can

cause them to overheat to the I

point that they won’t work well. You might not be able to stop your vehicle in time to avoid an accident. If you “ride” your brakes, they will get so hot they will require a lot of pedal force to slow you down. Avoid “riding” the brakes.

N U 1 /Ut “Riding” the brakes wears them )ut much faster. You would n :ostly brake replacement mucl iooner than normal, and it -educes fuel econo----

If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life.

If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it as you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

longer to

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L

You slam on

the brakes. Here’s what

Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) Your vehicle has an advanced electronic happens with ABS. braking system that can help you keep it A computer senses that a rear wheel is under control. When you stag your - slowing down. The computer works the vehicle and begin to drive away, you brakes at the rear wheels. It is may hear a momentary motor or programmed to make the most of clicking noise. The ABS motor comes available tire and road conditions. on momentarily when the vehicle As you brake, your computer keeps reaches 8 mph (12 km/h). This is the receiving updates on rear wheel speed ABS system testing itself. and controls braking pressure Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say accordingly. the road is wet. You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you.

A Anti-lock doesn’t change the

time you need to get your foot

up to the brake pedal. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes.

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Your Driving and the Road

Disc Brake Wear Indicators Your Geo has front disc and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake Pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

I I

I I

To Use Anti-Lock: Use rear wheel anti-lock like regular brakes. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some noise outside your vehicle, but this is normal. Let anti-lock work for you, but remember: Your front wheels can still stop rolling. If that happens, release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again so that you can steer. With the four-wheel-drive option, you won't have anti-lock braking when you shift into four-wheel drive. But you will have regular braking. When you shift back into two-wheel drive, you will have anti-lock again.

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t The brake wear warning

l sound means that sooner or : your brakes won't work well.

1; I'hat could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle cerviced.

I V V I I U L Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads cc brake rep;

in cost'

' I

~

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Rear Drum Brakes Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too.

Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then - very carefully - make a

few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times.

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Your Driving and the Road

Braking in Emergencies At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation that requires hard braking. You have the rear wheel anti-lock braking system. Your front wheels can stop rolling when you brake very hard. Once they do, the vehicle can’t respond to your steering. Momentum will carry it in whatever direction it was headed when the wheels stopped rolling. That could be off the road, into the very thing you were trying to avoid, or into traffic.

So, use a “squeeze” braking technique. This will give you maximum braking while maintaining steering control. You do this by pushing on the brake pedal with steadily increasing pressure. When you do, you can maintain steering control. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.

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Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system fails to function, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Steering Tips Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the ‘‘driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of

the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control systems - steering i and braking - have to do their work

where the tires meet the road. Adding the hard braking can demand too much at those places. You can lose control. The same thing can happen if you’re steering through a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems - steering and acceleration - can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Let up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of

course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.

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When you drive into a curve at night, it’s harder to see the road ahead of you because it bends away from the straight beams of your lights. This is one good reason to drive slower.

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Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking - if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action - steering around the problem. Your Geo can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your

brakes, but not enough to lock your front wheels. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available. An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. You must then be prepared to steer back to your original lane and then brake to a controlled stop.

Depending on your speed, this can be rather violent for an unprepared driver. This is one of the reasons driving experts recommend that you use your safety belts and keep both hands on the steering wheel. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times.

Off-Road Recovery You may find sometime that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder (A) while you’re driving. If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to 1/4 turn (B) until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

If the shoulder appears to be about four inches (100 mm) or more below the pavement, this difference can cause problems. If there is not enough room to pull entirely onto the shoulder and stop, then follow the same procedures. But if the right front tire scrubs against the side of the pavement, do NOT steer more sharply. With too much steering angle, the vehicle may jump back onto the road with so much steering input that it crosses over into the oncoming traffic before you can bring it back under control. Instead, ease off again on the accelerator and steering input, straddle the pavement once more, then try again.

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Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver?

Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents - the head-on collision.

So here are some tips for passing:

“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear).

Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic. If you suspect that the driver of the vehicle you want to pass isn’t aware of your presence, tap the horn a couple of times before passing. Or, if your Geo has the Passing Signal option, you can use that. See “Passing Signal” in the Index. Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle.

Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.

If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot. Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle

Your Driving and the Road

you just passed may seem to be further away from you than it really is.) Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle. Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lights are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible.

The three types of skids correspond to your Geo’s three control systems. In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide (as when you turn a corner on a wet, snow- or ice-covered road), ease your foot off the accelerator

pedal as soon as you feel the vehicle start to slide. Quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle will straighten out. As it does, straighten the front wheels. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited.

While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues - such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the. road to make a “mirrored surface’’ - and slow down when you have any doubt.

Remember: the rear wheel anti-lock braking system (RWAL) helps avoid only a rear braking skid. In a braking skid (where the front wheels are no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the brakes to get the front wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the front wheels are rolling, you will have steering control. Steer the way you want to go.

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Driving Guidelines

This multipurpose passenger vehicle is defined as a utility vehicle in Consumer Information Regulations issued by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) of the United States Department of Transportation. Utility vehicles have higher ground clearance and a narrower track to make them capable of performing in a wide variety of off-road applications. Specific design characteristics give them a higher center of gravity than ordinary cars. An advantage of the higher ground clearance is a better view of the road allowing you to anticipate problems.

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They are not designed for cornering at the same speeds as conventional two-wheel drive vehicles any more than low-slung sports cars are designed to perform satisfactorily under off-road conditions. If at all possible, avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. As with other vehicles of this type, failure to operate this vehicle correctly may result in loss of control or vehicle rollover.

1 Off-Road Driving with Your Geo Four-Wheel- Drive Vehicle

This off-road guide is for vehicles that have four-wheel drive. Also, see “Anti-Lock Brakes” in the Index. If your vehicle doesn’t have four-wheel drive, you shouldn’t drive off-road unless you’re on a level, solid surface. Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. “Off-roading” means you’ve left the great North American road system behind. Traffic lanes aren’t marked. Curves aren’t banked. There are no road

signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill. In short, you’ve gone right back to nature. Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that’s why it’s very important that you read this guide. You’ll find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable. Before You Go Off-Roading There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Be sure to read all the information about your four-wheel drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the

spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you’ll be driving? If you don’t know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Wil you be on someone’s private land? If so be sure to get the necessary permission. Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle.

The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can. Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on the off-road terrain doesn’t toss things around.

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A Cargo on the load floor L piled higher than the

seatbacks can be thrown forwarc during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks. Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be strucl by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly. Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.

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Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you’ll want to know how to use it properly.

You’ll find other important information in this manual. See “Vehicle Loading,” and “Tires” in the Index. Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads. It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly.

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Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and different driving skills. Here’s what we mean. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet, and body you’ll need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.

Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the When you’re driving best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds:

I.

CAUTION

off road,

c L bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you’re driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

You approach things faster and you have less time to scan the terrain for obstacles. You have less time to react. You have more vehicle bounce when you drive over obstacles. You’ll need more distance for braking, especially since you’re on an unpaved surface.

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Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider. Surface Conditions. Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt; gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration, and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction. and longer ... 144 braking distanc

Surface Obstacles. Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you’re not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:

Is the path ahead clear? Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? (There’s more discussion of these subjects later.) Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction quickly?

When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you’re not prepared. When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you can’t control the vehicle as well or at all.

Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what isn’t.

I CAUTION ’ Drinking and driving can be - very dangerous on any road.

And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious - or even fatal - accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. (See “Drunken Driving” in the Index.)

Driving on Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and can’t do. There are some hills that simply can’t be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

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are simply too

1 CAUTION 1 Many hills - steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you can’t control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, don’t drive the hill.

Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it’s one of those hills that’s just too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs. Here are some other things to consider as you approch a hill.

Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping? Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you won’t have to make turning maneuvers? Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)? What’s beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you don’t know. It’s the smart way to find out.

Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps.

Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering wheel.

Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain your speed. Don’t use more power than you need, because you don’t want your wheels to start spinning or sliding. Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

CAUTION

A Turning or driving across

steep hills can be dangerous.

You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

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Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of the hill. Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills. Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to let opposing traffic know you’re there. Use your headlights even during the day. They make you more visible to oncoming traffic.

CAUTION A Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an

accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

Q: What should I do if my vehicle

stalls, or is about to stall, and I can’t make it up the hill?

A: If this happens, there are some

things you-should do, and there are some things you must not do. First, here’s what you should do: Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake. If your engine is still running, shift the transmission into reverse, release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in reverse.

If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to restart it. With the brake pedal depressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to P (Park) (or, shift to Neutral if your vehicle has a manual transmission) and restart the engine. Then, shift to reverse, release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in reverse. As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels are straight or turned to the left or right as you back down.

Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill.

Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into N (Neutral) (or depressing the clutch, if you have a manual transmission) to “rev-up” the engine and regain forward momentum. This won’t work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control.

Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift into reverse, release the parking brake, and slowly back down.

Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t make it up the hill, you must back down the hill. Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the hill and decide I just can’t do it. What should I do?

A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in P (Park) (or the

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manual transmission in first gear), and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to N (Neutral) when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

A Shifting the transfer case to

N (Neutral) can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park) (or, if you have the manual transmission, even if you’re in gear). This is because the N (Neutral) position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to P (Park) (or, put your manual transmission in first gear). But do I not shift the transfer case to the N (Neutral) position. Leave the transfer case in the 2H, 4H, or 4L I position.

Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you’ll want to consider a number of things:

How steep is the downhill? Will I b able to maintain vehicle control? What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel? Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders? What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

A Heavy braking when going

down a hill can cause your

brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

Q:

A:

Are there some things I should not do when driving down a hill? Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose control and have a serious accident. When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that’s not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down. Never go downhill with the transmission in Neutral, or with the clutch pedal depressed in a manual shift. This is called

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“free-wheeling. ” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade. Avoid braking so hard that you lock the wheels when going downhill. If your front wheels are locked, you can’t steer your vehicle. If your wheels lock up during downhill braking, you may feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways. To regain your direction, just ease off the brakes and steer to keep the front of the vehicle pointing straight downhill.

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Q: Am I likely to stall when going

A:

downhill? It’s much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it happens going downhill, here’s what to do. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes. Apply the parking brake. Shift to P (Park) (or to Neutral with the manual transmission) and, while still braking, restart the engine. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight down.

If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.

Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:

A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the likelihood the vehicle will

tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

0 Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over.

Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more. For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

Your Driving and the Road

Q:

A:

I A Driving across an incline - I that’s too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, don’t drive across it. Find another route instead.

What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do? If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

Stalling on an Incline If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you’ll be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

.

CA UTlON t Getting out on the downhill

(low) side of a vehicle stopped across 811 incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances. It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck. When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will

to reduce the air

tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. You may want pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve traction, Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

Your Driving and the Road

I CAUTION A Driving on frozen lakes,

ponds or rivers can be

dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

)riving in Water ight rain causes no special off-road riving problems. But heavy rain can lean flash flooding, and flood waters emand extreme caution.

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I CAUTION

’ Driving through rushing water - can be dangerous. Deep water

-m sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it’s only inches deep, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing water.

Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, don’t try it - you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts. If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

rn Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired - by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively. Remember, this is the most dangerous time. Don’t drink and drive. (See “Drunken Driving” in the Index for more on this problem.) Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlights behind you.

Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. It’s hard to tell how fast the vehicle ahead is going just by looking at its taillights. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlights can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

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Your Driving and the Road

Night Vision No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night.

But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlights, but they also make a lot of things invisible that should remain visible - such as parked cars, obstacles, pedestrians, or even trains blocking railway crossings. You may want to put on your sunglasses after you have pulled into a brightly-lighted service or refreshment area. Eyes shielded from that glare may adjust more quickly to darkness back on the road. But be sure to remove your sunglasses before you leave the service area.

You can be temporarily blinded by approaching lights. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlights), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching lights. If there is a line of opposing traffic, make occasional glances over the line of headlights to make certain that one of the vehicles isn’t starting to move into your lane. Once you are past the bright lights, give your eyes time to readjust before resuming speed.

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High Beams If the vehicle approaching you has its high beams on, signal by flicking yours to high and then back to low beam. This is the usual signal to lower the headlight beams. If the other driver still doesn’t lower the beams, resist the temptation to put your high beams on. This only makes two half-blinded drivers. On a freeway, use your high beams only in remote areas where you won’t impair approaching drivers. In some places, like cities, using high beams is illegal.

When you follow another vehicle on a freeway or highway, use low beams. True, most vehicles now have day-night mirrors that enable the driver to reduce glare. But outside mirrors are not of this type and high beams from behind can bother the driver ahead. A Few More Night Driving Suggestions Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean - inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Tobacco smoke also makes inside glass surfaces very filmy and can be a vision hazard if it’s left there.

Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. You might even want to keep a cloth and some glass cleaner in your vehicle if you need to clean your glass frequently. Remember that your headlights light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlights should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness - the inability to see in dim light - and aren’t even aware of it.

Your Driving and the Road

*. ’ i

Driving in the Rain

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and

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traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. Road spray can often be worse for vision than rain, especially if it comes from a dirty road. So it is wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work

well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. You might not be aware of hydroplaning. You could drive along for some time without realizing your tires aren’t in constant contact with the road. You could find out the hard way: when you have to slow, turn, move out to pass - or if you get hit by a gust of wind. You could suddenly find yourself out of control.

Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining, and be careful.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips

Turn on your headlights - not just your parking lights - to help make you more visible to others. Look for hard-to-see vehicles coming from behind. You may want to use your headlights even in daytime if it’s raining hard. Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. If the road spray is so heavy

Your Drlvlng and the Road

you are actually blinded, drop back. Don’t pass until conditions improve. Going more slowly is having an accident. Use your defogger if it helps. Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)

better than

162

9 9 .

H Driving in Fog, Mist

and Haze

Fog can occur with high humidity or heavy fiost. It can be so mild that you can see through it for several hundred feet (meters). Or it might be so thick that you can see only a few feet (meters) ahead. It may come suddenly to an otherwise clear road. And it can be a major hazard. When you drive into a fog patch, your visibility will be reduced quickly. The biggest dangers are striking the vehicle ahead or being struck by the one behind. Try to “read” the fog density down the road. If the vehicle ahead starts to become less clear or, at night, if the taillights are harder to see, the fog is

probably thickening. Slow down to give traffic behind you a chance to slow down. Everybody then has a better chance to avoid hitting the vehicle ahead. A patch of dense fog may extend only for a few feet (meters) or for miles (kilometers); you can’t really tell while you’re in it. You can only treat the situation with extreme care. One common fog condition - sometimes called mist or ground fog - can happen in weather that seems perfect, especially at night or in the early morning in valley and low, marshy areas. You can be suddenly enveloped in

thick, wet haze that may even coat your windshield. You can often spot these fog patches or mist layers with your headlights. But sometimes they can be waiting for you as you come over a hill or dip into a shallow valley. Start your windshield wipers and washer, to help clear accumulated road dirt. Slow down carefully. Tips on Driving in Fog If you get caught in fog, turn your headlights on low beam, even in daytime. You’ll see - and be seen - better.

Don’t use your high beams. The light will bounce off the water droplets that make up fog and reflect back at you. Use your defogger. In high humidity, even a light buildup of moisture on the inside of the glass will cut down on your already limited visibility. Run your windshield wipers and washer occasionally. Moisture can build up on the outside glass, and what seems to be fog may actually be moisture on the outside of your windshield. Treat dense fog as an emergency. Try to find a place to pull off the road. Of course you want to respect another’s

property, but you might need to put something between you and moving vehicles - space, trees, telephone poles, a private driveway, anything that removes you from other traffic. If visibility is near zero and you must stop but are unsure whether you are away from the road, turn your lights on, start your hazard warning flashers, and sound your horn at intervals or when you hear approaching traffic. Pass other vehicles in fog only if you can see far enough ahead to pass safely. Even then, be prepared to delay your pass if you suspect the fog is worse up ahead. If other vehicles try to pass you, make it easy for them.

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Your Driving and the Road

H City Dnving One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:

to get to where

Know the best way you are going. Try not to drive around trying to pick out a familiar street or landmark. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

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Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next section, “Freeway Driving.”) Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

Obey all posted speed limits. But remember that they are for ideal road, weather and visibility conditions. You may need to drive below the posted limit in bad weather or when visibility is especially poor. Pull to the right (with care) and stop clear of intersections when you see or hear emergency vehicles.

Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.

Entering the Freeway At the entrance there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. If traffic is light, you may have no problem. But if it is heavy, find a gap as you move along the entering lane and time your approach. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your rearview mirrors as you move along, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow.

Driving on the Freeway Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it's slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. If you are on a two-lane freeway, treat the right lane as the slow lane and the left lane as the passing lane. If you are on a three-lane freeway, treat the right lane as the slower-speed through lane, the middle lane as the higher-speed through lane, and the left lane as the passing lane. Before changing lanes, check your rearview mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to

1 6 5 -

Your Driving and the Road

make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your ‘ ‘blind’ ’ spot. If you are moving from an outside to a center lane on a freeway having more than two lanes, make sure another vehicle isn’t about to move into the same spot. Look at the vehicles two lanes over and watch for telltale signs: turn signals flashing, an increase in speed, or moving toward the edge of the lane. Be prepared to delay your move. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night.

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Leaving the Freeway When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. Dashing across lanes at the last minute is dangerous. If you miss your exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. At each exit point is a deceleration lane. Ideally it should be long enough for you to enter it at freeway speed (after signaling, of course) and then do your braking before moving onto the exit ramp. Unfortunately, not all deceleration lanes are long enough - some are too short for all the braking. Decide when to start braking. If you must brake on

the through lane, and if there is traffic close behind you, you can allow a little extra time and flash your brake lights (in addition to your turn signal) as extra warning that you are about to slow down and exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. For example, 40 mph (65 km/h) might seem like only 20 mph (30 km/h). Obviously, this could lead to serious trouble on a ramp designed for 20 mph (30 km/h)!

I Driving a Long

Distunce

Although most long trips today are made on freeways, there are still many made on regular highways. Long-distance driving on freeways and regular highways is the same in some ways. The trip has to be planned and the vehicle prepared, you drive at higher-than-city speeds, and there are longer turns behind the wheel. You’ll l enjoy your trip more if you and your vehicle are in good shape. Here are some tips for a successful long trip.

Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh - such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Geo dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.

Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?

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Your Driving and the Road

Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

On the Road Unless you are the only driver, it is good to share the driving task with others. Limit turns behind the wheel to about 100 miles (160 km) or two hours at a sitting. Then, either change drivers or stop for some refreshment like coffee, tea or soft drinks and some limbering up. But do stop and move around. Eat lightly along the way.

Heavier meals tend to make some people sleepy. On two-lane highways or undivided multilane highways that do not have controlled access, you’ll want to watch for some situations not usually found on freeways. Examples are: stop signs and signals, shopping centers with direct access to the highway, no passing zones and school zones, vehicles turning left and right off the road, pedestrians, cyclists, parked vehicles, and even animals.

Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured.

-- A

What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors frequently and your instruments from time to time. This can help you avoid a fixed stare. Wear good sunglasses in bright light. Glare can cause drowsiness. But don’t wear sunglasses at night. They will

drastically reduce your overall vision at the very time you need all the seeing power you have. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

As in any driving situation, keep pace with traffic and allow adequate following distances.

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain. If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See “Off-Road Driving’’ in the Index for information about driving off-road.)

Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These ‘parts can work hard on mountain roads.

Your Driving and the Road

CA UT/ON

A If you don’t shift down, your

brakes could get so hot that

they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

A Coasting downhill in N - a (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Don’t make your brakes do it all. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill. That way, you will slow down without excessive use of your brakes.

. . . 170

Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. That way, you won’t be surprised by a vehicle coming toward you in the same lane. It takes longer to pass another vehicle when you’re going uphill. You’ll want to leave extra room to pass. If a vehicle is passing you and doesn’t

have enough room, slow down to make it easier for the other vehicle to get by. As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action. Winter driving can present special problems. See ‘ ‘Winter Driving” in the Index.

H Parking on Hills Hills and mountains mean spectacular scenery. But please be careful where you stop if you decide to look at the view or take pictures. Look. for pull-offs or parking areas provided for scenic viewing. Another part of this manual tells how to use your parking brake (see “Parking Brake” in the Index). But on a mountain or steep hill, you can do one more thing. You can turn your keep your vehicle from rolling downhill or out into traffic. Here’s how:

front wheels to

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Your Driving and the Road

Parking Downhill Turn your wheels to the right. You don't have to jam your tires against the curb, if there is a curb. A gentle contact is all you need.

Parking Uphill If there is a curb, turn your wheels to the left if the curb is at the right side of your vehicle.

If you're going uphill on a one-way street and you're parking on the left side, your wheels should point to the right.

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[f there is no curb when you’re parking uphill, turn the wheels to the right. [f there is no curb when you’re parking uphill on the left side of a one-way street, your wheels should be turned to the left. Torque Lock (Automatic Transmission) If you are parking on a hill and you don’t shift your transmission into P (Park) properly, the weight of the vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl in the transmission. You may find it difficult to pull the shift lever out of P (Park). This is called

“torque lock.” To prevent torque lock, always be sure to shift into P (Park) properly before you leave the driver’s seat. To find out how, see ‘‘Shifting into P (Park)” in the Index. When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of P (Park) BEFORE you release the parking brake. If torque lock does occur, you may need to have another vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some of the pressure from the transmission, so you can pull the shift lever out of P (Park).

Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your Geo in good shape for winter. Be sure your engine coolant mix is correct. Snow tires can help in loose snow, but they may give you less traction on ice than regular tires. If you do not expect to be driving in deep snow, but may have to travel over ice, you may not want to switch to snow tires at all.

Your Driving and the Road

rn

to put winter

You may want emergency supplies in your vehicle. Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very

careful.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice. ” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about freezing (32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow - drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

Your anti-lock brakes improve your ability to make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-lock” in the Index. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.

Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges.

Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If You’re Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.

Your Driving and the Road

If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

176

A Snow can trap exhaust gases

under your vehicle. This can

cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can't see it or smell it, so you might not know it was in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn't collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that's away from the wind. This will help keep co out.

.._

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlights. Let the heater run for awhile. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as

long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. If You’re Stuck in Deep Snow This manual explains how to get the vehicle out of deep snow without damaging it. See “Rocking Your Vehicle” in the Index.

rn Towing a Trailer

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by you warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section.

Your Driving and the Road

Your Geo can tow a trailer. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this section. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. 9 178

Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, wheel assemblies, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. All of that means changes in:

Handling Durability Fuel economy