2003 Chevrolet Silverado Owners Manual

Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance inspections on page 6-16.

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Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 18. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

he wrong kind of fl

system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.

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Nofice:

in your

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, brake system can damage brake system soon your brakes won’t work parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted serviced. surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care’’ in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear v ning sound means that

well. That could

lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6- 17.

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Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco@ battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco@ battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Batteries ..-ve acid that can burn yo- And gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3- 12 I.

Jump Starting

If your battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

Batteries ca.. hurt you. They can be dang because:

‘OUS

0 They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

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2. If you have a vehicle with a diesel engine with two

batteries (or more), you should know before you begin that, especially in cold weather, you may not be able to get enough power from a single battery in another vehicle to start your diesel engine. If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the battery that’s closer to the starter - this will reduce electrical resistance.

3. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear not in NEUTRAL. Notices If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

5. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and

negative (-) terminal locations of the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (-) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located behind a red plastic cover near the engine accessory drive bracket. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover. The remote negative (-) terminal is located on the engine drive bracket on all V8 and diesel engines, and on the thermostat housing on the 8.1 L engine. On V8 engines it is marked “GND.” On V6 engines the remote negative (-) terminal is located on a tab attached to the engine accessory drive bracket where it is marked “GND.” See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

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C-.ng a r..-fch near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco@ battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

I . IS or other movi you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

engine pal

can i

6. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before vou connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or a remote positive terminal (+) if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. On vehicles equipped with dual batteries, make all battery connections to the remote positive (+) and remote negative (-) terminals.

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7. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

9. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

10. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next

step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery.

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11. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the dead battery or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

12. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

13. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If

it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

V8 Engine

V8 Engine, Diesel

Similar

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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following:

1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the bad battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover to its

original position.

Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (-) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (-) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

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Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level for the 1500 Series is from 5/8 inch to 1 5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 1500 HD Series, 2500 Series, 2500 HD, and 3500 Series is from 0 to 1/2 inch (0 to 13 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 1500 and 2500 Series vehicles with QUADRASTEERTM (4 Wheel Steer) is from 0 to 1/4 inch (0 to 6 mm) below the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-18.

1500 Series Shown, 2500 Series Similar

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Four-wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-16. How to Check Lubricant

Manual Transfer Case

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Automatic Transfer Case

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-18.

Front Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 0 to 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-18.

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Noise Control System

Tampering with Noise Control System Prohibited

The following information relates to compliance with federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 Ibs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States. Tampering With Noise Control System Prohibited Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof:

1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person,

other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or

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2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element

of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation:

Removal of the noise shields or any underhood insulation.

Engine:

Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.

Fan and Drive:

Removal of fan clutch (if equipped) or rendering clutch inoperative. Removal of the fan shroud (if equipped).

Air Intake:

Removal of the air cleaner silencer Modification of the air cleaner.

Exhaust:

Removal of the muffler and/or resonator. Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe clamps.

Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. See Replacement Buibs on page 5-70 for the proper types of bulbs to use. Halogen Bulbs

. . . . . . -

Hal en bulbs have pressurized gas and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

inside

Headlamps

1 . If your vehicle is equipped with two pins, remove

the two pins on the top of the headlamp assembly. To remove the pins, turn the outer pin outward and pull it straight up. To remove the inner pin, turn it in and pull it straight up.

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I

A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. High-Beam Headlamp

2. Pull the headlamp assembly out. 3. Unplug the electrical connector. 4. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and remove it

from the headlamp assembly.

5. Put the new bulb into the assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight. Use care not to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands.

6 . Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle. Install and tighten the two pins. If your vehicle has one pin, install it and turn it into the locking feature.

If your vehicle has one pin on the headlamp assembly, remove the pin. To remove the pin, turn the pin up and pull it out straight out.

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3. Pull the turn signal housing out from the vehicle. 4. Press the locking release lever, turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal housing.

5. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 6. Put the new bulb into the bulb socket. Use care not

to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands.

7. Put the bulb socket into the turn signal housing and

turn it clockwise until it locks.

8. Put the turn signal housing back onto the vehicle placing the hook and posts on the inner side into the alignment holes first and then the outer side into the retainer bracket. Push until you hear a click.

9. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime Running Lamps

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Retainer Clip C. Front Turn Signal Lamp D. Daytime Running Lamp 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as mentioned

previously.

2. Press the retainer clip, located behind the turn

signal housing, towards the outside of the vehicle.

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Roof Marker Lamps

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2. Remove the six screws on the center roof marker

lamps.

3. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise to remove it

from the socket.

4. Put a new bulb into the

socket and turn clockwise until it locks in place.

5. Reinstall the lens and tighten the screws.

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Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) and Cargo Lamp

1. Remove the screws and lift off the lamp assembly.

A. Cargo Lamps B. Center High-Mounted Stoplamps

2.

3.

Remove the CHMSL bulb holder back plate from the housing by pressing the release tabs. Remove the CHMSL bulb by pulling the bulb straight out from the holder back plate. Remove a cargo bulb by turning the socket counterclockwise and pulling the bulb straight out.

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Pickup Box Identification and Fender Marker Lamps 2. Unplug the lamp assembly harness. 3. Gently pry the individual lamp from the lamp

Remove the screws and lamp assembly.

housing.

4. If a CHMSL bulb is replaced, put the new bulb into

the socket and press it in until it is tight. If a cargo lamp is replaced, put a new cargo lamp bulb into the socket and press it in until it is tight before turning the socket counterclockwise.

5. Put the bulb holder back plate into the lamp

housing.

6. Reinstall the lamp assembly and tighten the screws.

4. Unplug the lamp. 5. Plug in a new lamp and snap it into the housing. 6. Reinstall the lamp housing. Taillamps 1. Open the tailgate.

2. Remove the two rear

lamp assembly screws near the tailgate latch and pull out the lamp assembly.

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Your vehicle may have one of the following taillamp assemblies:

A. B. C.

Stoplamp Turn Signal Back-up Lamp

A. Stoplamp B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp D. Side Marker Lamp

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3. Press the release tab, if equipped, and turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp housing.

4. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket. 5. Press a new bulb into the socket and turn the socket

clockwise into the taillamp housing.

6. Reinstall the rear lamp assembly. 7. Close the tailgate.

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Taillamps (Chassis Cab Models)

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp Low-Beam Headlamlss High-Beam Headlamp I Davtime Runnina Lamps (DRL) Front Roof Marker Lamps Front Parkinq and Turn Lamp Rear Marker Lamp, Taillamp and Stop Lamp** Taillamp and Stop Lamp** Sidemarker Lamp (If Equipped) Rear Turn Lamp Rear Turn Lamp ** Back-up Lamp Back-up Lamp** Fenter High-Mounted Stoplamp I Carao

~~~

Bulb Number 9006 I 9005 I41 57K 194 3457A 3157 1157 194 31 57 1156 31 57 1156 I912 I912

A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Stoplamp C. Back-up Lamp 1. Using your hands, peel the rubber seal away from

Lamp

the lens.

2. Lift the lens off the lamp assembly. 3. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket. 4. Put a new bulb into the socket and press it in until it

is tight.

5. Reinstall the lens and the lens seal.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See At Least Twice a Year on page 6-12 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5- 124.

To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following:

1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is

facing away from the windshield.

2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly

toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.

3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your warranty booklet for details.

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

pose the same danger

Underinfla,,, ,,res as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact - such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure

The CertificationRire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: 0 Too much flexing 0 Too much heat 0 Tire overloading

Bad wear Bad handling

0 Bad fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear 0 Bad handling 0 Rough ride e Needless damage from road hazards When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Dual Tire Operation

Tire Inspection and Rotation

Tires should be rotated every 7,500 miles (12 500 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-77 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-80 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel wrench/hoist shaft to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-84. If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, also see Dual Tire Operation on page 5-74. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services,” in Section 6, for scheduled rotation intervals.

When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (1 60, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque and wheel nut tightening information, see “Tightening the Wheel Nuts” later in this section. The outer tire on a dual wheel setup generally wears faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” earlier in this section. Also see “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in th

‘ndex for scheduled rotation intervals

~~

you operai

lour vehicle \ - - . - I a .--‘e that is badly underintlated, the tire can overheat. An overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire. You or others could be injured. Be sure all tires (including the spare) are properly inflated.

See “Tires” and “Inflation - Tire Pressure” in the Index for more information on proper tire inflation.

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I

FRT

FRT

If your vehicle has single rear wheels and the tread design for your front tires is the same as your rear tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires. If your vehicle has front tires with different tread designs (such as all season vs. on/off road) than the rear tires, don't rotate your tires front to rear.

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels and the tread design for your front tires is the same as your rear tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires.

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I1

I1

After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certificationflire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5- 120.

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels and the tread design for the front tires is different from the dual rear tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here when rotating your tires. The dual tires are rotated as a pair, and the inside rear tires became the outside rear tires. When you install dual wheels, be sure the vent holes in the inner and outer wheels on each side are lined up.

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

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When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:

You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split.

0 The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Buying New Tires

To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not inclu e acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak raction characteristics.

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Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carryin? capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

L-.ng the w. -ng reyxement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (1 60, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

Used Repla

?merit \‘“leek

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

5-81

Notice: If your vehicle does not have dual wheels and is equipped with a tire size other than P265ff5R16, or LT65R5R16, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Don’t use chains on the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

Tire Chains

If your vehicle has dual wheels or P265fffiR16 or LT265/75R16 size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to yourvehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.”

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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes ocrt of a. tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout”, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.

A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop - well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-83

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be

sure the transfer case is in a drive gear - not in NEUTRAL.

4. Turn off the engine. 5. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear

of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

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The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

Regular Cab

Extended and Crew Cab@

5-85

The equipment you'll need is behind the passenger's seat. For Extended and Crew Cab@ models, the equipment is under the passenger's side second row seat. 1. If there is a cover, move the seats forward and turn

the wing nut on the cover counterclockwise to remove it. For Crew Cab@ models, pull up the second row seat with the loop at the base of the seat cushion to access the tools.

2. The wheel blocks and the wheel block retainer can

be removed by turning the wing nut counterclockwise.

3. To release the bottle jack from its holder, turn the knob on the bottle jack counterclockwise to lower the jack head.

4. There is also a wing nut used to retain the storage

bag and tools. To remove it, turn the wing nut counterclockwise.

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You'll use the jack handle and the wheel wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.

A. Hoist Assembly B. Wheel Wrench C. Extensions D. Hoist Shaft E. Valve Stem,

Pointed Down

F. Spare Tire

G. Tire Retainer H. Hoist Cable I. Hoist Lock (If Equipped) J. Hoist Shaft Access Hole K. Hoist End

Follow these instructions to lower the spare tire: 1 .

If the vehicle is equipped with a hoist lock, open the spare tire lock cover on the bumper and use the ignition key to remove the lock. Assemble the wheel wrench and the two jack handle extensions as shown. Insert the hoist end (open end) of the extension through the hole in the rear bumper. Be sure the hoist end of the extension connects into the hoist shaft. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. The wheel wrench has a hook that allows you to pull the hoist cable towards you, to assist in reaching the spare tire. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, engaged, causing the tire not to lower. See “Secondary Latch System’’ next. When the tire has been lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

the secondary latch is

2.

3.

4.

5.

Secondary Latch System

Your vehicle has an underbody mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It’s designed to stop the spare tire from falling off your vehicle. For the secondary latch to work, the spare must be installed with the valve stem pointing down. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” for instructions on storing the spare

. flat tire correctly.

Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed below.

5-87

To release the spare tire from the secondary latch do the following:

4. Repeat this procedure at least two times. If the

spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with Step 4 of “Removing Your Spare Tire and Tools” earlier in this section.

5. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until

approximately six inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.

6. Stand the wheel blocks on their shortest ends, with the backs facing each other.

1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable end is

visible.

2. If it is not visible, proceed to Step 6.

If it is visible, first try to tighten the cable by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.

3. Loosen the cable by turning the wrench

counterclockwise three or four turns.

5-88

7.

8.

Hook the bottom edge of the jack on the wheel blocks, separating them so that the jack is balanced securely. Attach the jack handle, extension, and wheel wrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel blocks) under the vehicle towards the front of the rear bumper. Position the center lift point of the jack under the center of the spare tire.

If the spare is hanging from the cable, insert the hoist handle, extension and wheel wrench into the hoist shaft hole in the bumper, and turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare the rest of the way.

13. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

14. If the cable is hanging under the vehicle, turn the

wheel wrench in the hoist shaft hole in the bumper clockwise to raise the cable back up.

Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or flat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been replaced.

5-89

9.

IO.

11.

12.

Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it lifts the end fitting. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops moving upward and is held firmly in place. The secondary latch has released and the spare tire is balancing on the jack. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by the cable. Disconnect the jack handle from the jack and carefully remove the jack. Use one hand to push against the spare while firmly pulling the jack out from under the spare tire with the other hand.

The tools you’ll be using include the bottle jack (A), the wheel blocks (B), the jack handle (C), the jack handle extensions (D), and the wheel wrench (E). if the flat tire is on the rear of the vehicle, you’ll need to use both jack handle extensions.

Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extensions (as needed). Attach the jack handle to the jack.

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If your vehicle has wheel nut caps, loosen them by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. If you have a center cap with wheel nut caps, the wheel nut caps are designed to remain with the center cap.

Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the jack lift head a little.

Remove the center cap. If the wheel has a smooth center piece, place the chisel end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry out.

5-9 1

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

1. Use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Don’t remove the wheel nuts yet.

Notice: If your vehicle is equipped with QUADRASTEERTM avoid contact with tie rods and tie rod boots when jacking the vehicle.

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2. Position the jack under the vehicle. If the flat tire is

on the front of the vehicle (Two-Wheel Drive 1500 Series vehicles), position the jack under the bracket attached to the vehicle’s frame, behind the flat tire. If the flat tire is on the front of the vehicle (all other models), position the jack on the frame behind the flat tire. If the flat tire is on the rear, position the jack under the rear axle between the spring anchor and the shock absorber bracket. If you have added a snow plow to the front of your vehicle, lower the snow plow fully before raising the vehicle.

Getting under a vehicb, Nhen it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

Front Position 2WD 1500 Series

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, . _ i :

Front Position All Other Models

Rear Position

3. Make sure the jack head is positioned so that the rear axle is resting securely between the grooves that are on the jack head. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit under the wheel well.

5-94

4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

Rust or -..t on t..- wheel, c. on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

Never use oil or grease on stuus or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

5-95

6. After mounting the spare, reinstall the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each wheel nut by hand using the wheel wrench until the wheel is held against the hub.

Front Position All Other Models

5-96

Front Position 2WD 1500 Series

Rear Position

7. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the vehicle. Lower the jack completely.

5-97

10 4

3 01

8. Tighten the nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as

shown by turning the wheel wrench clockwise.

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See ”Capacities and Specifications’’ in the Index for wheel nut torque specification.

Nofice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the index for the wheel nut torque specification.

5-98

Stor'--

~~

a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

A-

rc?

Iment in the Storing a jack, a tire, or other eq passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

Notice: An aluminum wheel with a flat tire should always be stored under the vehicle with the hoist. However, storing it that way for an extended period of time could damage the wheel. To avoid this, always stow the wheel properly with the valve stem pointing down and have the wheel repaired as soon as possible. Return the bottle jack, wheel blocks, wheel wrench and jack extensions to their location behind the passenger's seat. Secure the items in the vehicle as shown.

A. Wing Nut B. Wheel Blocks C. Wheel Wrench and Extensions Retainer D. Gloves E. Wheel Wrench and Extensions F. Storage Bag G. Bottle Jack Holder H. Bottle Jack I. Wheel Block Retainer

5-99

Store the tire under the rear of the vehicle in the spare tire carrier. To store the tire, do the following:

1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle

with the valve stem pointed downward and to the rear.

2. Tilt the retainer downward and through the wheel

opening. Make sure that the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.

3. Attach the wheel wrench and extensions together.

Insert the hoist end through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft.

4. Raise the tire part of the way upward. When the tire

is almost in the stored position, adjust the tire so that the valve stem is toward the rear of the vehicle.

D. c “Down“

Raise

*FRT’

A. Hoist Assembly B. Wheel Wrench C. Extensions D. Hoist Shaft E. Valve Stem, Pointed Down F. Flat or Spare Tire G. Retainer H. Hoist Cable

5. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. The cable cannot be overtightened.

5-1 00

6. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull,

and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench/hoist shaft to tighten the cable.

Put back the jack, tools and spare tire lock, if equipped.

PUSH & PULL

5-1 01

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:

Gasoline Benzene Naphtha Carbon Tetrachloride Acetone Paint Thinner Turpentine Lacquer Thinner Nail Polish Remover

They can all be hazardous - some more than others -and

they can all damage your vehicle, too.

5-1 02

Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:

Alcohol Laundry Soap Bleach Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. FabridCarpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM - approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5- 108. Here are some cleaning tips: 0 Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.

Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set. Carefully scrape off any excess stain.

Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.

Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any

loose dirt.

2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask

surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.

3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate

the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a

sponge to remove any excess cleaner.

6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened

towel or cloth.

7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.

Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat

the area with a watedbaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry completely. 3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

5-1 03

Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5- 108. Notice: Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the

Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth.

Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do this more than once. Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.

For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product. Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. defogger grid. Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.

5-1 04

Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

Do ..A bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 18.

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-708. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle. If your vehicle is equipped with QUADRASTEERTM see QUADRASTEERTM on page 4- 14.

5-1 05

Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5- 108. If your vehicle has a “basecoatlclearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoatlclearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoatklearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.

5-1 06

Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts. Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water.

Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels Your vehicle may be equipped with either aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Use chrome polish only on chrome-plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.

Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: When applying a tire dressing, always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires. Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.

Finish Damage

Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials avaliable from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.

5-1 07

Underbody Maintenance

Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

Chemical Paint Spotting

Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms; blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first. 5-1 08

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials See your GM dealer for more information on purchasing the following products.

GM Vehicle Care/A

Dpearance Materials

Description

Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Polish White Sidewall Tire Cleaner

Vinyl Cleaner

Glass Cleaner

Usage

Interior and exterior polishing cloth. Removes tar, road oil and asphalt. Use on chrome or stainless steel. Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls. Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops. Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints.

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

(cont’d)

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

(cont’d)

Description Usage

chrome and Wire Cleaner

Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers.

Description

Wash Wax Concentrate

Finish Enhancer

ontaminants, Spray on

Swirl Remover Polish

Cleaner Wax

Foaming Tire Shine Gloss

Removes swirl marks, fine scratches and other

contamination. Removes light scratches and protects finish. Cleans, shines and protects in one easy step, no wiDina necessarv.

Spot Lifter

Odor Eliminator

Usage Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free. Quickly and easily removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl and cloth upholstery. Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather and carpet.

See your General Motors parts department for these products. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-18.

5-1 09

Vehicle Identification

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.

Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts. Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label located in the glove box. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:

your VIN, the model designation, paint information and a list of all production options and special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.

5-1 10

Electrical System

Add-on Electrical Equipment

Notice: Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working-as they should. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-77.

The

Windshield Wiper Fuses

The windshield wiper motor is protected by an internal circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed.

Power Windows and Other Power Options

Circuit breakers protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.

Fuses and Circuit Breakers

wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from

short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible thermal links. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without - like the radio or cigarette lighter - and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can.

5-1 11

Instrument Panel Fuse Block

The fuse block access door is on the driver’s side edge of the instrument panel. Pull off the cover to access the fuse block.

You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor which is mounted to the fuse block access door. To remove fuses, if you don’t have a fuse extractor, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out. You may have spare fuses located behind the fuse block access door. These can be used to replace a bad fuse. However, make sure it is of the correct amperage.

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LT DOORS

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I Power Door Lock Relay (Lock Function) I Climate Control System Driver’s Door Harness

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I Right Turn Signals and Sidemarkers I Harness

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Left Power Windows Circuit Breaker

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Center Instrument Panel Fuse Block The center instrument panel utility block is located underneath the instrument panel, to the left of the steering column.

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