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Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.


Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lafie change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that if your right outside mirror is convex, the vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.) Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle. Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.


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Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.


A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If you have the Traction Assist System, remember: It helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If you do not have this system, or if the system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited.


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While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues - such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a ”mirrored surface” - and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid. Off-Road Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle This off-road guide is for vehicles that have four-wheel drive. Also, see Braking on page 4-6. If your vehicle doesn’t have four-wheel drive, you shouldn’t drive off-road unless you’re on a level, solid surface.


Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. “Off-roading” means you’ve left the great North American road system behind. Traffic lanes aren’t marked. Curves aren’t banked. There are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill. In short, you’ve gone right back to nature. Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that’s why it’s very important that you read this guide. You’ll find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable. If you think you will need some more ground clearance at the front of your vehicle, you can easily remove the front bumper lower air dam.


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1. Insert a tool into the


push-pin slot and pull downward until the push-pin snaps loose.


2. While continuing to pull


downward on the push-pin, squeeze and turn the expandable end of the push-pin with a tool until it releases from the retainer.


The front bumper lower air dam is held in place by a series of push-pins located around the lower edge of the front bumper. The push-pins are accessible from underneath the front bumper. The following steps must be performed on each of the push-pins to remove the air dam:


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3. Pull the push-pins and


lower dam assembly away from the retainers until the lower dam is free.


When you’re back on roads, though, be sure to replace the air dam. Notices Operating your vehicle for extended periods without the front bumper lower air dam installed can cause improper air flow to the engine and may allow things like fog lamps or tow hooks on the front of your vehicle to be damaged. Always be sure to replace the front bumper air dam when you’re finished off-road driving.


To reinstall the lower air dam, do the following:


1. Line up each push-pin


with its intended retainer and push the washer portion of the push-pin toward the retainer until it locks into place.


2. Push the flat end of the


push-pin toward the retainer until it locks into place, making sure each is secure.


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Before You Go Off-Roading There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Check to make sure all underbody shields (if so equipped) are properly attached. Be sure you read all the information about your four-wheel-drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you’ll be driving? If you don’t know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission. Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle.


The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can.


0 Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on


the off-road terrain doesn’t toss things around.


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Cargo on the floor piled higher than the seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks. Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly. Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.


You’ll find other important information in this manual. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-56 and Tires on page 5-72.


Environmental Concerns Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. GM recognizes these concerns and urge every off-roader to follow these basic ru!es for protecting the environment:


Always use established trails, roads and areas that have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving; obey all posted regulations. Avoid any driving practice that could damage the environment - shrubs, flowers, trees, grasses - or disturb wildlife (this includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground). Always carry a litter bag ... make sure all refuse is removed from any campsite before leaving. Take extreme care with open fires (where permitted), camp stoves and lanterns. Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other combustible materials that could catch fire from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.


Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads. It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly. Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you’ll want to know how to use it properly. Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and different driving skills. Here’s what we mean. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet and body, you’ll need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.


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Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds:


you approach things faster and you have less time to scan the terrain for obstacles. you have less time to react. you have more vehicle bounce when you drive over obstacles. you’ll need more distance for braking, especially since you’re on an unpaved surface.


/’re driving off-rc


I, bouncing and Whe quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you’re driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.


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Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider.


Surface Conditions: Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction and longer braking distances.


Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut or bump can startle you if you’re not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:


Is the path ahead clear? Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? (There’s more discussion of these subjects later.) Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction quickly?


Driving on Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and can’t do. There are some hiiis that simpiy can’t be driven, -- matter how well built the vehicle.


Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you can’t control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, don’t drive the hill.


When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you’re not prepared. When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you can’t control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what isn’t. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious - or even fatal - accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. See Drunken Driving on page 4-2.


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Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it’s one of those hills that’s just too steep to climb, descend or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs. Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill.


Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping? Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you won’t have to make turning maneuvers? Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)? What’s beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you don’t know. It’s the smart way to find out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.


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Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps. 0 Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering


wheel. Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain your speed. Don’t use more power than you need, because you don’t want your wheels to start spinning or sliding. Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.


Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.


Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.


0 Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill


to let opposing traffic know you’re there.


0 Use your headlamps even during the day. They


make you more visible to oncoming traffic.


Driving tc _he --> (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.


A: If this happens, there are some things you should do, and there are some things you must not do. First, here’s what you should do: Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake. If your engine is still running, shift the transmission to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R). If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or shift to neutral if your vehicle has a manual transmission) and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R). As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It’s best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.


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Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill.


Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into NEUTRAL (N) (or pressing the clutch, if you have a manual transmission) to ‘rev-up’ the engine and regain forward momentum. This won’t work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control. Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down. Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.


Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the hill and decide I just can’t do it. What should I do? A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in PARK (P), or the manual transmission in FIRST (l), and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.


Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) (or, if you have the manual transmission, even if you’re in gear). This is because the NEUTRAL position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the


CAUTION:


(Continued)


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transmission LU PARK ( transmission FIRST (1). But do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. Leave the transfer case in the 2 Wheel High, 4 High or 4 Low


Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you’ll want to consider a number of things:


How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain vehicle control? What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel? Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders? What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?


If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.


Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.


driving down a hill?


Q: Are there some things I should not do when A: Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose control and have a serious accident. When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that’s not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down. Never go downhill with the transmission in NEUTRAL (N), or with the clutch pedal pressed down in a manual shift. This is called ‘free-wheeling’. Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.


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e


Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill? A:


It’s much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it happens going downhill, here’s what to do. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes. Apply the parking brake. Shift to PARK (P) (or to neutral with the manual transmission) and, while still braking, restart the engine. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight down. If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.


Driving Across an Incline- Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:


A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline,


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the much more narrow track width (the distance between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover. Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over. Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.


For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.


Stalling on an Incline If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get o ~ t on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you’ll be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.


Driving across an incline that’s too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, don’t drive across it. Find another route instead.


Q: What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do?


A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and ”walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.


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. ,. .,..... -


Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.


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Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances. It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck. When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve traction. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it‘s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.


-


Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.


Driving in Water Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or exhaust pipe, don’t try it - you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts. If the water isn’t too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.


can be


ving through rushing wa


dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it’s only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing water.


See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-37 for more information on driving through water. After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.


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Driving at Night


Here are some tips on night driving.


Drive defensively. Don’t drink and drive. Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you. Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.


No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.


F” //


Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired - by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.


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You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean - inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness - the inability to see in dim light - and aren’t even aware of it.


Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads


Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.


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The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.


Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you t-’L them.


Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.


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Hydroplaning


Driving Through FlolAti-g Water


Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. \N-hen your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water


Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.


Flowing’or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


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Some Other Rainy Weather Tips


City Driving


Turn on your low-beam headlamps - not just your parking lamps - to help make you more visible to others. Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires on page 5-72.


One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.


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Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:


Freeway Driving


Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. See the next part, “Freeway Driving.’’ Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.


Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.


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At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit.


The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh - such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.


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Here are some things you can check before a trip:


Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservior full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?


Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:


Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior.


e Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and


to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.


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Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.


If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.


Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain. If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. See Off-Road Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle on page 4-21 for information about driving off-road.


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Coasting downhil. ..I N-JTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They couldget so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hili. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.


0 Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down


to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.


0 As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There


could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.


0 You may see highway signs on mountains


that


warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.


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Winter Driving


Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.


Here are some tips for winter driving:


Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle.


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Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow - drive with caution. If you have traction assist, keep the system on. It will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. But you can turn the traction system off it your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow. See If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-50. Even though your vehicle has a traction system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See Traction Assist System (TAS) on page 4-9. If you don’t have a traction system, accelerate gently. Try not to break the gentle traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.


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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.


Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Braking on page 4-6.


Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.


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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard


. .


/’


If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow.Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:


Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow.


Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck tinder your clothing to keep warm.


Snow can trap exhaust gases under ysur vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.


Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.


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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.


If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow


In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.


If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 25 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. For more information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see lire Chains on page 5-82.


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Using the Recovery Hooks


Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. If your vehicle has the Traction Assist System, you shouid turn it off by pressing the TAS on/off button. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn't get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-53.


Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you're stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.


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i -


These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.


Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.


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Towing


Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following. Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle - such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle will all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See Dinghy Towing and Dolly Towing following.


the ground and


Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing:


What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations. How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-42.


Dinghy Towing When towing your vehicle, turn the ignition to LOCK. Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground.


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Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles


4. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See


Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-35 for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.


5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle


being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.


6. Turn the ignition off.


le’s transfer


Shifting a four-wheel-drive vet-- case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.


Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Firmly set the parking brake. 2. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK (P), or a


manual transmission to FIRST (1).


3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow


vehicle.


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Dolly Towing Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground. Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Firmly set the parking brake. 2. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK (P), or a


manual transmission to FIRST (1).


3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow


vehicle.


4. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See


Four-wheel Drive on page 2-35 for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.


5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle


being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.


6. Turn the ignition off.


lg - .our-wheel-drive vehicle’s tran


?r


case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.


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Loading Your Vehicle


COLD TIRE PRESSURE 0 0 0 0 n o


The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. The Certification/Tire label also contains information about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. See “Front Axle Reserve Capacity” later in this section. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.


The Certificationrnire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door or in the Incomplete Vehicle Document in the cab. The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.


In the case of sudden stop :ollision, things carried In the bed of your truck could shift forward and come into the passenger area, injuring you and others. If you put things in the bed of your truck, you should make sure they are properly secured.


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Do not load your vehicle any heavier than tl GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Nofice: Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading. This will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. If you put things inside your vehicle - like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else - they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.


Thi -s you put i ide your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


0 Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly.


0 Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


0 Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in


your vehicle. When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


There’s also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under 017-Road Driving with Your Four- Wheel-Drive Vehicle on page 4-2 1.


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Payload Payload capacity is the maximum load capacity that your vehicle can carry. Be sure to include the weight of the occupants as part of your load. If you added any accessories or equipment after your vehicle left the factory, remember to subtract the weight of these things from the payload. Your dealer can help you with this. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-56. 2-Tiered Loading By positioning four 2” x 6” wooden planks across the width of the pickup box, you can create an upper load platform. The planks must be inserted in the pickup box depressions. The length of the planks must allow for at least a 3/4 inch (2 cm) bearing surface on each end of the plank. When using this upper load platform, be sure the load is securely tied down to prevent it from shifting. The load’s center of gravity should be positioned in a zone over the rear axle. The zone is located in the area between the front of each wheel well and the rear of each wheel well. The center of gravity height must not extend above the top of the pickup box flareboard. Any load that extends beyond the vehicle’s taillamp area must be properly marked according to local laws and regulations.


4-58


Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-56. Add-on Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment.


Notice: Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-56.


. .


I Maximum Weight I750 Ibs. (340 kg)


and Carqo I400 Ibs. (181 kg)


*EauiDment Ladder Rack and Cargo Cross Toolbox Side Boxes and Cargo * The combined weight for all rail-mounted equipment should not exceed 1,000 Ibs. (454 kg). A reinforcement kit for rail-mounted add-on equipment is recommended. See your dealer.


250 Ibs. per side (1 13 kg per side)


Q: How heavy can a snow plow safely be? A: The plow your vehicle can carry depends on many


things, such as: The options your vehicie came with, and the weight of those options, The weight and number of passengers you intend to carry,


0 The weight of items you’ve added to your vehicle,


like a tool box or truck cap, The total weight of any additional cargo you intend to carry.


Say, for example, you have a 700 Ib. (318 kg) snow plow. The total weight of all occupants and cargo inside the cab should not exceed 300 Ib. (1 35 kg). This means that you may only be able to carry one passenger. But, even this may be too much if you’ve got other equipment already adding to the weight of your vehicle.


Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment


Before installing a snow plow on your vehicle, here are some things you’ll need to know:


Notice: If your vehicle doesn’t have the snow plow prep package, adding a plow can damage your vehicle, and the repairs wouldn’t be covered by warranty. Unless your vehicle was built to carry a snow plow, don’t add one to your vehicle. If your vehicle has the snow plow option called RPO VYU (snow plow prep package), then the payload your vehicle can carry will be reduced when a snow plow is installed. Your vehicle can be damaged if either the front or rear axle ratings, or the GVW, are exceeded. Q: How do I know if my vehicle can handle a A: Some vehicles are built with a special package, called RPO VYU (snow plow prep package). If your vehicle has this option, you can add a plow to it, provided certain weights, such as the weights on the vehicle’s axles and the GVW, aren’t exceeded.


snow plow?


4-59


I calculate it?


Q: What is front axle reserve capacity, and how do A: Front axle reserve capacity is the difference between your front GAWR and the front axle weight of your truck with full fuel and passengers. Basically, it’s the amount of weight you can add to your front axle before reaching your front GAWR. The front axle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the CertificationDire label, as shown. : TRUCK


1 I--


COLD TIRE PRESSURE XXXKPA(XXPS1) XXXKPA(XXPS1)


E INFORMATION


FXXX + T x x x x


Canada


United States


COLD TIRE PRESSURE PRESSION A FROlD


xxxxxxxx(xxPS1) >ooooooo<(xxPSl) I)AVIFXXX


T xxx


Here are some guidelines for safely carrying a snow plow on your vehicle:


Make sure the weight on the front and rear axles doesn’t exceed the axle rating for each. For the front axle, if more cargo or passengers must be carried, appropriate counter ballast must be installed rear of the rear axle. Counter ballast must be properly secured so it won’t move during driving. Follow the snow plow manufacturer’s recommendations regarding rear ballast. Rear ballast may be required to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual weight at the front axle may be less than the front axle rating. The snow plow manufacturer or installer can assist you in determining the amount of rear ballast required, to help make sure your snowplow/vehicle combination does not exceed the GVW rating, the front and rear axle ratings, and the front and rear weight distribution ratio. The total vehicle must not exceed the GVW rating.


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In order to calculate the amount of weight any front accessory, such as a snow plow, is adding to the front axle, use the following formula:


W.B.


(W x (A + W.B.)) /W.B.= Weight the accessory is adding to the front axle. Where: W = Weight of added accessory A = Distance that the accessory is in front of the front axle W.B. = Vehicle Wheelbase For example, adding a 700 Ib. (318 kg) snow plow actually adds more than 700 Ib. (318 kg) to the front axle. Using the formula, if the snow plow is 4 ft. (122 cm) in front of the front axle and the wheel base is 10 ft. (305 cm), then: W = 700 Ib. (318 kg) A = 4 ft. (122 cm) W.B. = 10 ft. (305 cm) (W X (A + W.B.))/W.B. = (700 X (4 + 10))/10 = 980 Ib. (445 kg) So, if your truck's front axle reserve capacity is more than 980 Ib. (445 kg), you could add the snow plow without exceeding the front GAWR.


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vehicle?


Q: What if I want to add heavier equipment to my A: You can add heavier equipment on the front of the vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer passengers, less cargo, or by positioning cargo towards the rear. This has the effect of reducing the load on the front. However, the front GAWR, rear GAWR and the GVWR must never be exceeded.


On some vehicles eqi ped with certain front mounted equipment, such as a snow plow, it may be possible to load the front axle to the front GAWR but not have enough weight on the rear axle to have proper braking performance. If your brakes can’t work properly, you could have a crash. To help your brakes work properly when a snow plow is installed, always follow the snow plow manufacturer or installer’s recommendation for rear ballast to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though theactual front weight may be less than the and the total vehicle weight is less than the GVWR. Maintaining a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio is necessary to provide proper braking performance.


frontGAWR,


4-62


Q: What is total vehicle reserve capacity? A: This is the difference between your GVWR and the weight of your truck with full fuel and passengers. It’s the amount of weight you can add to your vehicle before reaching your GVWR. Keep in mind that reserve capacity numbers are intended as a guide when selecting the amount of equipment or cargo your truck can carry. If you are unsure of your truck’s front, rear or total weight, go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can also help you with this.


See your dealer for additional advice and information about using a snow plow on your vehicle. Also, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-56.


Truck-Camper Loading Information This label is inside your glove box. It will tell you if your vehicle can carry a slide-in camper, how much of a load your vehicle can carry, and how to correctly spread out your load. Also, it will help you match the right slide-in camper to your vehicle. When you carry a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of your vehicle is the weight of the camper, plus


everything else added to the camper after it left the factory, everything in the camper and all the people inside.


The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But, you can figure about 150 Ibs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.


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Refer to the Truck-Camper Loading Information label in glove box for dimensions A and B as shown in the following illustration.


Here is an example of proper truck and camper match:


Use the rear edge of the load floor for measurement purposes. The recommended location for the cargo center of gravity is at point C for the CWR. It is the point where the mass of a body is concentrated and, if suspended at that point, would balance the front and rear.


A. Camper Center of Gravity B. Recommended Center of Gravity Location Zone The camper’s center of gravity should fall within the center of gravity zone for your vehicle’s cargo load. You must weigh any accessories or other equipment that you add to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra weight may shorten the center of gravity zone of your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. If your slide-in camper and its load weighs less than the CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger.


4-64


Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper match. He’ll also help you determine your CWR. After you’ve loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and weigh the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on your axles. The loads on the front and rear axles shouldn’t be more than either of the GAWRs. The total of the axle loads should not be more than the GVWR. Open your driver’s door and look at the CertificationRire label to find out your GAWR and GVWR. If you’ve gone over your weight ratings, move or take out some things until all the weight falls below the ratings. Of course, you should always tie down any loose items when you load your vehicle or camper. When you install and load your slide-in camper, check the manufacturer’s instructions. If you want more information on curb weights, cargo weights, Cargo Weight Rating and the correct center of gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer can help you. Just ask for a copy of ”Consumer Information, Truck-Camper Loading.”


Trailer Recommendations


You must subtract your hitch loads from the CWR for your vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that y o ~ l won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the spring bars in place. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-66.


Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab


General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may consider having the pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed. Before you do so, first contact GM Customer Assistance for information on such conversions specific to this vehicle. Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which may affect vehicle safety. The components necessary to adapt a pickup to permit its safe use with a specialized body should be installed by a body builder in accordance with the information available from GM Customer Assistance See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-4.


4-65


Towing a Trailer -


If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Additional rear axle maintenance is required for a vehicle used to tow a trailer. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


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To identify the vehicle trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in Weight of the Trailer that appears later in this section. If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh less than 5,000 Ibs. (2 270 kg) for light duty vehicles, or less than 7,500 Ibs. (3 405 kg) for heavy duty vehicles. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.


Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear heavier loads. If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use the highest gear. See Tow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-48.


in at the


Three important considerations have to do with weight:


the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.


Tow/Haul Mode Tow/haul is a feature on automatic transmission equipped vehicles that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. The purpose of the


tow/haul mode is to: Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded. Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.


Automatic transmission equipped vehicles are provided with a button at the end of the shift lever which when pressed enables tow/haul. When the button is pressed, a light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that tow/haul has been selected. Tow/haul may be turned off by pressing the button again, at which time the indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off tow/haul every time it is started.


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Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. Use one of the following charts to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Above the 5,000 Ibs. (2 268 kg) trailer rating, handlinghrailering suspension is required on C-1500 models and the handlinghrailering or suspension is required on K-1500 models.


off -road


the


Tow/haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See Weight of the Trailer later in the section. Tow/haul is most useful under the following driving conditions:


When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load through rolling terrain. When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load in stop and go traffic.


4 When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy


load in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.


Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of tow/haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.


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Vehicle"


Axle Ratio I


C-I500 Regular Cab Short Box (2WD)"


4300 V6 (Auto)


4300 V6 (Manual)


4800 V8 (Auto)


4800 V8 (Manual)


5300 V8


3.08 3.42 3.08 3.42


3.42 3.73 3.42 3.73


Maximum Trailer


Weight


GCWR


4,500 Ibs. (2 041 kg) 5,000 267kgj ibs. (2 587 kg) 4,000 Ibs. (1 81 4 kg) 6,400 Ibs. (2 902 kg) 7,400 Ibs. (3 356 kg) 4,400 Ibs. (1 995 kg) 5,400 Ibs. (2 449 kg) 7,400 Ibs. (3 356 kg) 8,400 Ibs. (3 810 kg)


9,000 Ibs. (4 086 kg) 9,500 ibs. (4 313 kg) 8,000 Ibs. (3 632 kg) 3,500 Ibs. (1 8,500 Ibs. (3 859 kg) 11,000 Ibs. (4 994 kg) 12,000 Ibs. (5 448 kg) 9,000 Ibs. (4 086 kg) 10,000 Ibs. (4 540 kg) 12,000 Ibs. (5 448 kg) 13,000 Ibs. (5 902 kg)


* Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,000 Ibs (454 kg). Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs. (680 kg) maximum.


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Vehicle*


I Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR


* Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,000 Ibs (454 kg). Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs. (680 kg) maximum. **Maximum 8,000 Ibs. (3 628 kg) for fifth-wheel or gooseneck. ***Maximum 7,500 Ibs. (3 401 kg) for fifth-wheel or gooseneck.


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Vehicle*


C-1500 Crew Cab Short Box (2WD)*


Ratio


I Axle


Maximum Trailer Weight GCWR


6000 V8


6000 V8 w/4WS


14,000 Ibs. (6 356 kg) Ibs. (7 264 kg Ibs. (6 356 kg) 16,000 Ibs. (7 264 kg * Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs (680kg). Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 2,500 Ibs. (1 133 kg) maximum.


8,200 Ibs. (3 719 kg) 10,200 Ibs. (4 626 kg 7,900 Ibs. (3 583 kg) 9,900 Ibs. (4 490 kg)


3.73 4.10 16,000 3.73 14,000 4.1 0


Vehicle* C-1500 Regular Cab Lona Box (2WD)*


Ratio


I Axle


I Maximum Trailer


Weight


I GCWR


Ibs.


9,000 10,000


4800 V8 (Manual)


Ibs. (4 540 a g) gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs. (680 kg 7 maximum.


5300 V8 * Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,000 Ibs (454 k ). Fifth-wheel or


3.42 3.73 3.42 3.73


(4 086 k )


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Vehicle*


I Axle Ratio I Maximum Trailer


Weight


I GCWR


Vehicle* K-1500 Regular Cab Short Box (4WD)*


I Axle Ratio I Maximum Trailer Weight


I GCWR


* Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,000 Ibs (454 kg). Fifth-wheel or


, gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs. (680 kg) maximum.


**Maximum weight 7,900 Ibs. (3,583 kg) for fifth-wheel or gooseneck.


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4800 V8 (Auto)


4800 V8 (Manual)


3.73 4.1 0


5300 V8 w/4WS


I K-1500 Crew Cab Short Box (4WD)* 6000 V8


4-73


I Maximum Trailer Weiqht


I GCWR


I Vehicle* K-I500 Regular Cab Long Box (4WD) 4300 V6 (Auto)


I Axle


Ratio


3.42


4300 V6 (Manual)


4800 V8 (Auto)


4800 V8 (Manual)


(2 086 kg) (2 313 kg) 3.73


3.42 3.73 4,100 Ibs. 3.73 4.1 0


3,600 Ibs. (1 632 kg) (1 859 kg) 7,000 Ibs. (3 175 kg) (3 628 kg)


4.1 0


5,000 Ibs. (2 267 kg) 3.73 6,000 Ibs. (2 721 kg) 8,000 Ibs. (3 628 kg) 3.73 9,000 Ibs. (4 082 kg)*


9,500 Ibs. (4 313 kg) 4,600 Ibs. 10,000 Ibs. (4 540 kg) 5,100 Ibs. 8,500 Ibs. (3 859 kg) 9,000 Ibs. (4 082 kg) 12,000 Ibs. (5 448 kg) 13,000 Ibs. (5 902 kg) 8,000 Ibs. 10,000 Ibs. (4 540 kg) 1 1,000 Ibs. (4 994 kg) 13,000 Ibs. (5 902 kg) 14,000 Ibs. (6 356 kg)


5300 V8 * Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,000 Ibs (454 kg). Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs. (680 kg) maximum. **Maximum weight 8,900 Ibs. (4 036 kg) for fifth-wheel and gooseneck.


4.1 0


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Vehicle* K-1500 Extended Cab Long Box (4WD)


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


I 4800 V8 I 4800 V8 (Manual) I 5300 V8


3.73 4.10


6,700 Ibs. (3 041 kg) 7,700 Ibs. (3 495 kg)** 4,700 Ibs. (2 133 kg). 5,700 Ibs. (2 587 kg) 7,700 Ibs. (3 495 kg)** 8,700 Ibs. (3 949 kg)**


GCWR


I 13,000 Ibs.


12,000 Ibs. (5 448 kg) (5 902 kg) 10,000 Ibs. (4 540 kg) 11,000 Ibs. (4 994 kg) 13,000 Ibs. (5 902 kg) 14,000 Ibs. (6 356 kg)


~~~~~


* Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,000 Ibs (454 kg). Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs. (680 kg) maximum. **Maximum weight 6,800 Ibs. (3 084 kg) for fifth-wheel and gooseneck.


I Vehicle* I C-2500 LD (2WD**


I Axle


Ratio


I Maximum Trailer Weight


I GCWR


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I Vehicle*


I Axle


Ratio


I Maximum Trailer


Weight


I GCWR


* Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs (680 kg). Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 2,500 Ibs. (1 133 kg) maximum. ** Limited to 12,000 Ibs. (5 443 kg) with weight distributing hitch.


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Vehicle* C-2500 Extended Cab Long Box HD (2WD)*


I Axle Ratio I Maximum Trailer


Weight


I GCWR


C-2500 Crew Cab Short Box HD (2WD)** 6000 V8 81 00 V8


I 4.10


I 10,l 00 Ibs. (4 585 kg)


I 16,000 Ibs. (7 264 kg)


* Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs (680 kg). Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 3,000 Ibs. (1 360 kg) maximum. ** Limited to 12,000 Ibs. (5 443 kg) with weight distributing hitch.


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Vehicle* C-2500 Crew Cab Long Box HD (2WD) 6000 V8

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