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you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.


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How to Reset the Change Oil Soon Message The GM Oil Life SystemTM calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE OIL SOON message after an oil change, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off. 2. Press the TRIP button so the OIL LIFE percentage


is displayed.


3. Press RESET and hold for two seconds. OIL LIFE


REMAIN 100% will appear.


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


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Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleanedfilter off.


Notice: If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


The engine air cleaner/filter is located at the center front of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Refer to Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 to determine when to replace the air filter.


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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Replacement To remove the engine air cleaner/filter:


1. Pull up on the clips on each side to release the


assembly.


2. Pull the assembly out. 3. Replace the filter. See Normal Maintenance


Replacement Parts on page 5-94. 4. Push the assembly back into place. v K . FQCtnn


U V L V . . tha


.I.- Plinc - * t r - -


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Automatic Transmission Fluid How to Check It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your dealer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. There is a special procedure for checking and changing the transmission fluid. Because this procedure is difficult, you should have this done at your dealer service department. Contact your dealer for additional information or the procedure can be found in the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7- 10. Notices We recommend yu use only fluid labeled DEXRON@ 111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@ 111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.


Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (80 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one of these conditions:


In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. High performance operation.


If you do not use your vehicle under one of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (1 66 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for the proper service intervals for the transmission fluid and filter. Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing.


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How to Check Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.


Then, follow these steps:


1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of


the filler plug hole.


3. !? the flnirl !s?re! k CJCCC!, inst?!! the F!L!cJ 2nd he SL!!? it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.


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How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 13. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough


fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully


seated.


4. Tighten the plug to 20 Ib ft (27 N*m ). Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check the fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


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When to Check and What to Use


The clutch master cylinder reservoir is located at the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-7 and Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 13.


How to Check and Add Fluid


Fluid should be added if the fluid level is below the step on the inside of the reservoir. There are additional instructions on the reservoir cap. Put the rubber seal ana cap back on. See Engine Zomparimeni Zlverview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLa engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL@ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@) coolant will: 0 Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C).


Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C).


0 Protect against rust and corrosion. 0 Help keep the proper engine temperature. 0 Let the warning lights and gages work as they


- L - . . l A 3 1 I U U I U .


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Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.


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Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.


Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.


Notice: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


Checking Coolant


The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment behind the passenger's side headlamp. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more intormation on locatlon.


Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark. The FULL COLD mark is on the front of the coolant surge tank. Don't overfill the surge tank. Too much coolant can result in an overflow when the fluid is hot.


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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the


engine is cool. r You can bc urned you


I - II coolant on hot


engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap


Notice: Your pressure cap is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. See “Capacities and Specifications” for more information. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for information on location.


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Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on the instrument panel cluster and a COOLANT OVER TEMP message on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-38 and DlC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the messages COOLANT OVER TEMP and REDUCED ENGINE POWER are displayed, along with the Check Engine light, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency; you may drive up to 50 miles (80 km). Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


Steam from an ove ... eated engine can b n you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. dust turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


Nofice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode“ in the index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:


Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:


1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the window as necessary.


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you are not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


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Cooling System


When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:


An elec :tric engine cooling fan unde Nr tne nood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.


A. Electric Engine Cooling Fans B. Coolant Surge Tank


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Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.


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Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL~ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level isn’t at the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information.


If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


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Your vehicle's coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn't get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX COOL@ coolant.


Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


Id i' ou spill coolant on hot


You can be bul engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don't spill coolant on a hot engine.


Adding only plai Mater to system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will.


ur cooling


CAUTION:


(Continued) I


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3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture, to the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank.


1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter turn and then stop. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


2. Then keep remove it.


turning the pressure cap slowly, and


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5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start


the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan(s). By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank.


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Power Steering Fluid


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.


0 When the engine


compartment is hot, the level should be at the HOT mark. When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be at the FULL COLD mark.


What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fiukis and iubsicanis on page 8-13. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


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Notice:


freeze and


When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.


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Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It is filled with UWT-3 brake iiuia. See Engine Gompanmenr zlverview on page 5- 12. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake ini in^ Y ‘ A ‘ P = I Y . Wher! new !inings are put in, the fluid level goes back up.


The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


-.‘akc _ _


1, it can spill on


If you have too mu the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Part C: Periodic !vMik17ance i17specihs 017 page 6- i 1.


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Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above the MIN mark on the reservoir. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is between the MIN and MAX marks. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


‘ith the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice:


Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.


If


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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).


lg sot


1 means that


The 'ake wear war soon your brakes won't work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Z06 models are equipped with high performance front brake linings designed for improved brake performance under severe use. They will normally exhibit some low speed noise and you may notice an increase in the amount of brake dust.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-12. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment As you make brake stops, your disc brakes automatically adjust for wear.


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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery


Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco@ battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco@ battery. For battery replacement, see your dealer or the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service and Owner Publications in Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-10.


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Warnings Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


u and gas Batteries have acid that can burn that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-75.


Jump Starting


If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to fo” N the steps below to do it safely.


I L t e r i e s ca.. .wrt you. They can be _._ingerous because:


They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.


If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


Notices If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brakes.


Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette l+ ,,,JIJ Th:- ... ;II lighter or in the accessory power outlet. Turn off LL- - - A : - LI it; lauiu ai IU all l a 1 I ‘pa 11 l a 1 alcil I L I IGGUGU. I I 1 1 3 Y V I I I avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!


-___


I ----


4 L - &


- - A


,I1


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4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


I elect. __ fan can st,.


- up even when the


engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


C-. - a ma 1 near a lttery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco@ battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a


CAUTION: (Continued)


5-42


battery has filler caps, be sure the rightamount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)


terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


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7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


8. Now connect the black


negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.


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9. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable at


least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11 = Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If


it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


Nofice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following:


1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other


vehicle.


B \


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery


5-45


Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6- 1 1. How to Check Lubricant


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use To add lubricant when the level is low, use SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lubricant (GM Part No. 12378261) or equivalent meeting GM Specification 99861 15. To completely refill after draining, add 4 ounces (1 18 ml) of Limited-Slip Differential Lubricant Additive (GM Part No. 1052358) or equivalent. Then fill to the bottom of the filler plug hole with the Synthetic Gear Lubricant.


5-46


Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulb, see Bulb Replacement on page 5-47. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer’s service department.


Halogen Bulbs


Headlamps 1. The headlamp doors need to be halfway open.


Turn the headlamps on, then quickly back to the parking lamps setting. You may have to do this a few times to get the half-open position.


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


You can also open the headlamp doors manually by turning the adjuster counterclockwise.


5-47


2. Remove the screws on each side of the


headlamp bezel. 3. Open the hood. 4. To remove the bezel, pull the sides slightly outward


and tilt the bezel forward. Pull the clip centered above the lens outward. Be careful not to scratch the paint on the vehicle.


5. Reach behind the lamp and turn the bulb


counterclockwise to remove it. Don’t touch the halogen bulbs. The inner bulb is the high beam and the outer bulb is the low beam.


6. Disconnect the desired bulb from the wiring


harness.


7. Reverse the steps listed previously with a new bulb.


5-48


Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps


A. Back-up Lamp B. Inboard Taillamp C. Outboard Taillamp


1. Remove the screws. 2. Pull the taillamp housing assembly out.


5-49


3. To remove the socket with the bulb, squeeze the


tab while you turn the socket counterclockwise.


4. Remove the bulb from the socket. 5. Reverse the steps listed previously with a new bulb.


5-50


Back-up Lamps You can access the back-up lamps through the inboard taillamp opening. See Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps on page 5-49. 1. Squeeze the tab on the socket while turning it


counterclockwise to remove it from the assembly.


2. Remove the bulb from the socket. 3. Reverse the steps listed previously with a new bulb.


Replacement Bulbs


For any bulb replacements or procedures not listed here, please consult your dealer.


5-51


Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check under Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-7 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5-9 I. It’s a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly every six months. Notice: Use care when removing or installing a blade assembly. Accidental bumping can cause the arm to fall back and strike the windshield. To remove the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Open the hood to gain access to the windshield


wipers.


2. Lift the wiper arm until it locks into a vertical


position.


5-52


A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab 3. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab (C). Pull down on the blade assembly (A) to release it from the wiper arm hook (F).


D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook


4. Remove the insert from the blade assembly (A). The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notch end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.


To install the new wiper insert:


3. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook.


Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.


4. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly


onto the windshield.


Installation guide:


E3


,D


1. Slide the insert (D), notched end last, into the end with the two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). Plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the :.---.A II I ~ G I


L 13 rully II I 3 t a l l t ; u . ^I


I- 1. -11. . :--*-11-


2. Be sure the notches are locked by the bottom


claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.


A. Claw in Notch + I--+-II-+:-- n r- t X L II I ~ l i l l l d l l U I I D. bUl I C. Incorrect Installation


-I---


5-53


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Ct-


rolet V ’ rranty booklet for details.


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.


Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle’’ in the Index. Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


5-54


0 Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact - such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


Extended Mobility Tires (Except Z06) Your vehicle, when new, had Goodyear Extended Mobility Tires (EMT). There’s no spare tire, no tire changing equipment and no place to store a tire in the vehicle. Extended Mobility Tires perform so well without any air that a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) is used to alert you if a tire has lost pressure. If a tire goes flat, you won’t need to stop on the side of the road to change the tire. You can just keep on driving. The shorter the distance you drive and the slower the speed, the greater the chance that the tire will not have to be replaced. If you drive on a deflated EMT for 50 miles (80 km) or less and at speeds of 55 mph (90 km/h) or less, there is a good chance that the tire can be repaired.


The tire can operate effectively with no air pressure for up to 200 miles (320 km) at speeds up to 55 mph (90 km/h), but the tire would then have to be replaced. When a tire is filled with air, it provides a cushion between the road and the wheel. Because you won’t have this cushion when driving on a deflated tire, try to avoid potholes that could damage your wheel and require replacement of it. Some road hazards can damage a tire beyond repair. This damage could occur even before you’ve driven on the tire in a deflated condition. When a tire has been damaged, or if you’ve driven any distance on a deflated EMT, check with an authorized Goodyear EMT Service Center to determine whether the tire can be repaired or should be replaced. To maintain your vehicle’s extended mobility feature, all replacement tires must be Extended Mobility Tires. As soon as possible, contact the nearest authorized GM or Goodyear EMT servicing facility for inspection and repair or replacement. To locate the nearest GM or Goodyear EMT servicing facility, call Roadside Assistance. Fsr phsne nE!?hers 2nd REdSidf? .A.ssistsnce dPf?!l!S see Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5. You may also contact Goodyear, for the nearest authorized EMT servicing facility, by calling 1-800-789-9878.


.ded mobili,.,


tires are cons,. Jcted


Exl,. differently than other tires and could explode during improper service. You or others could be injured or killed if you attempt to repair, replace, dismount, or mount an extended mobility tire. Let only an authorized Goodyear EMT Service Center repair, replace, dismount and mount extended mobility tires.


The valve stems on your extended mobility tires have sensors that are part of the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM). See Tire Pressure Monitor System (Except Z06) on page 5-57. These sensors contain batteries which are designed to last for 10 years under normal driving conditions. See your dealer if you ever need to have a wheel replaced, or if the sensors ever need replacement.


Notice: Using liquid sealants can damage the tire valves and tire pressure monitor sensors in your extended mobility tires. This damage would not be covered by warranty. Don’t use liquid sealants in your extended mobility tires.


5-55


If you feel that winter tires are needed for your driving conditions, Goodyear Eagle M+S EMT tires are available in your original equipment sizes from an authorized Goodyear EMT retailer. These tires will improve snow traction while maintaining your vehicle’s extended mobility feature. When using winter tires on your vehicle, be sure to use them on all four wheels. See Buying New Tires on page 5-59.


Inflation -- Tire Pressure


Information label, which is on the rear


The Tire-Loading edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:


Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy


5-56


If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:


Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards


When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. If your vehicle is equipped with the Tire Pressure Monitor, you can check tire inflation pressures while driving. After you’ve reached a speed of 15 mph (24 kmh) or more, press and release the GAGES button on the Driver Information Center (DIC) until the front tire pressures are displayed. Then, press and release the GAGES button for the rear tire pressures.


Monitor System


If the display doesn’t show tire pressure, or if the SERVICE TIRE MON SYS message appears see your dealer for service. For more information, see Tire Pressure Monitor System (Except Z06) on page 5-57 and Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-44. Tire Pressure (Except Z06) The Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) has a sensor on each road wheel that transmits to a receiver on the instrument panel. The system operates on a radio frequency subject to Federal Communications Commission (FCC) Rules and with Industry and Science Canada. This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) this device may not cause harmful interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operaiion.


This device complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) this device may not cause interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device. Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment. If a tire’s inflation pressure is between 5 psi (35 kPa) and 25 psi (1 70 kPa), you will see a message on the Driver Information Center. This message will show which tire is underinflated and two chimes will sound. An example would be LOW TIRE PRESSURE-LR. This would mean that the inflation pressure in your left rear tire is between 5 psi (35 kPa) and 25 psi (1 70 kPa). If the inflation pressure in the tire drops below 5 psi (35 kPa), the message would read FLAT TIRE-LR and four chimes will sound. See Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-44. The TPM will also alert you if a tire’s nressure is higher than 42 psi (290 kPa). The message will show which tire is overinflated and two chimes will sound. An example would be HIGH PRESSURE-LR. This would mean that the inflation pressure in your left rear tire is higher than 42 psi (290 kPa). See Driver Information Center p ! q o!? p g e 2-44.


5-57


If a tire pressure message appears on the Driver Information Center, stop as soon as you can. Have the tire pressures checked and set to those shown on your Tire-Loading Information label. See inflation -- Tire Pressure on page 5-56.


en th


.OW TIRE PRESSURE or FLAT TIRE message is displayed on the Driver Information Center, your vehicle’s handling capabilities will be reduced during severe maneuvers. If you drive too fast, you could lose control of your vehicle. You or others could be injured. Don’t drive over 55 mph (90 km/h) when the LOW TIRE PRESSURE or FLAT TIRE message is displayed. Drive cautiously, and check your tire pressures as soon as you can.


Tire Rotation


The tires on your vehicle are different sizes front to rear. Due to this, your tires should not be rotated. Each tire and wheel should be used only in the position it is in.


5-58


When It’s Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:


You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.


the vehicle m - not handle p -)erly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle) may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size and type tires on all four wheels.


If your vehicle is equipped with Extended Mobility Tires and you feel that winter tires are needed, see Extended Mobility Tires (Except Z--’


I page 5-54.


Mix..-d tires could cause yo-. __ .--e con-. -11 while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle) or types (radial and bias-belted tires), (Continued)


CAUTION:


I wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after


_..‘es on your v t ... cle, the


If you use bias-1


many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


5-59


Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 -5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


5-60


Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Yollr dealer will know the kind nf wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.


5-6 1


If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


Using the wrong re1 cement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to the body and chassis.


Never use oil or grease on studs or the threads of the wheel nuts. If you do, the wheel nuts might come loose and the wheel could fall off, causing a crash.


5-62


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly llyhtened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts.


Notice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the whee! nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.


Magnesium Wheels


Notice: If your vehicle has magnesium wheels, I moisture on or around the mounting surface of the


magnesium wheel will cause corrosion and damage to the wheel. To help prevent this, a magnesium wheel has two rubber O-rings. One goes on the inboard side of the wheel and the other on the back of the center hubcap. When you put a magnesium wheel back on, be sure the O-rings are correctly installed. On the inboard side, work the O-ring into the groove. When properly installed, this O-ring fits snugly. The other O-ring goes around the edge of the center cap. Used Replacement Wheels


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


5-63


Tire Chains


--


Lifting Your Corvette


.,..IS. Therc


Don’t use tire not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.


Lifting a veh- - - e can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to lift your vehicle. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in PARK (P), or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R). Turn off the engine.


3. Turn off the engine.


To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks in front of and behind the wheels.


5-64


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to place the jack in the proper location before raising the vehicle.


If you ever use a jack to lift your Corvette, such as to display it at a show, follow the instructions that came with the jack, and be sure to use the correct lifting points to avoid damaging your vehicle. Notice: Lifting your vehicle improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To lift your vehicle properly, follow the advice in this part. To help prevent vehicle damage: * Be sure to place a block or pad between the


jack and the vehicle.


0 Make sure the jack you’re using spans at least


two crossmem ber ribs.


0 Lift only in the areas shown in the following


pictures.


For additional information, see your dealer and the Chevrolet Corvette service manual.


5-65


Lifting From the Front


The front lifting point can be accessed for either the driver’s or passenger’s side of the vehicle, behind the front tires.


5-66


1. Locate the lifting point (B) on either side of your


vehicle to jack the vehicle according to the illustration shown.


2. Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack


and the vehicle.


3. Lift the vehicle with the jack, making sure the jack


spans at least two of the crossmember ribs (A).


Lifting From the Rear


The rear lifting point can be accessed from the rear of the vehicle, on either the driver’s or passenger’s side.


1. Locate the lifting point to jack your vehicle according


to the illustration shown.


2. Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack


and the vehicle.


3. Lift the vehicle with the jack, making sure the jack


spans at least two of the crossmember ribs.


For more information, see Doing Your Own Service Work on page 5-4.


5-67


Special tools and procedures are required to service an Extended Mobility Tire (EMT). If these special tools and procedures aren’t used you or others could be injured and your vehicle could be damaged. Always be sure the proper tools and procedures, as described in the service manual, are used.


To order a service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.


If a Tire Goes Flat


Your Corvette has no spare tire, no tire changing equipment and no place to store a tire. It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. See “Tires” in the Index. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. If your vehicle has Extended Mobility Tires (EMT), you won’t need to stop on the side of the road to change a flat tire. EMT tires can operate effectively with no air pressure. If you drive on a deflated EMT for 50 miles (80 km) or less and at speeds of 55 mph (90 km/h) or less, there is a good chance that the tire can be repaired. Contact the nearest authorized Chevrolet or Goodyear EMT servicing facility, as soon as possible, to have the flat tire inspected and repaired or replaced. For more information, see “Extended Mobility Tires” in the Index.


5-68


Z06 models do not have Extended Mobility Tires. If a Z06 model tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place and stopping. Then do this: 1. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. 2. Set the parking brake firmly. 3. Put the shift lever (manual transmission) in


REVERSE (R).


4. Turn off the engine. 5. Inspect the flat tire. If the tire has been separated from the wheel or has damaged sidewalls or large tears that allow rapid air IOSS, Assistance” in the Index.


call a tire repair facility. See “Roadside


If the flat tire is due to a slow leak caused by a nail or other similar road hazard, the tire inflator kit may be used to repair the damaged tire temporarily. The kit uses a liquid tire sealant to seal small punctures in the tread area of the tire. The flat tire is then inflated to at least 26 psi (1 79 kPa) and driven to evenly distribute the tire sealant. The tire pressure is checked after driving for a maximum of 10 minutes to see if the slow leak has been stopped. If the tire pressure is 19 psi (131 kPa) or more, inflate the tire up to the standard operating pressure as shown on the Tire Pressure Label found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. See “Tires, Pressure” in the Index. You should have the damaged tire repaired as soon as possible. The tire sealant is a temporary repair only. For more information regarding the tire inflator kit see “Tire Inflator Kit” following this section. Notice: If the tire pressure has dropped below 19 psi (131 kPa), the vehicle should not be driven further. Damage to the tire may be severe and the sealant will not be effective. Contact Roadside Assistance. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index.


5-69


Tire Inflator Kit (Z06 Only) Every Z06 model with P295/35ZR18 and P265/402Rl7 tires, when new, was equipped with a tire inflator kit. The repair kit contains a detailed instruction card that outlines step by step the temporary repair procedure. Be sure to read and follow all the tire inflator kit instructions. The kit also includes:


5-70


A. Air Compressor B. Tire Sealant C. Sealant Filling Hose D. Air Compessor


Accessory Plug E. Air Compressor


Inflator Hose


F. Air Pressure Gage G. Sealant Filling


Hose Plug


H. Valve Core Remover I. Spare Valve Core J. 55-mph Label


Tire Sealant The kit contains a liquid sealant that when injected into a flat tire, may temporarily repair nail holes or cuts in the tread area of the tire. The tire sealant cannot repair tire damage caused while driving on a flat tire or a tire that has had a “blow out” or a tire that has punctures in the sidewall areas. The tire sealant solution is a one-time use application for one tire only. Check the tire sealant expiration date; the sealant may not be as effective beyond the expiration date. The tire sealant can be peeled off easily after drying.


Notice: Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle is equipped with Extended Mobility Tires or tire pressure monitors. The tire sealant can damage tire pressure monitor sensors. See “Extended Mobility Tires” in the Index. Air Compressor The air compressor included in the tire inflator kit, was designed exclusively for the Z06 Model equipped with P295/35ZR18 and P265/40ZR17 tires. After the sealant has been injected into the flat tire, use the air compressor to inflate the tire to at least 26 psi (179 kPa). Instructions for connecting and using the air compressor are iocateci on the air Compressor.


A. Inflating Hose B. Air Pressure Gage


C. ON/OFF Switch D. Air Compressor Plug Notice: The car engine must be running to avoid draining the battery while running the air compressor. Follow the proper steps to be sure your vehicle won’t move. See Parking Your Vehicle (Manual Transmission) on page 2-34.


5-71


It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle with the engine running, if the shift lever is not in NEUTRAL (N) with the parking brake firmly set (manual transmission). Your vehicle can roll or move suddenly even when on fairly level ground. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, always set your parking brake and move the shift lever to NEUTRAL (N) when you start or idle your engine.


Idling the engine in a closed-in place or with the climate control system off can cause deadly carbon monoxide (CO). See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.


5-72


Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate the tire to its recommended pressure. Do not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).


Notice: Do not allow the air compressor to operate continuously for more than six minutes to help prevent damage from overheating.


Notice: If 26 psi (179 kPa) tire pressure cannot be reached after six minutes the vehicle should not be driven further. Damage to the tire is severe and the sealant will not be effective. Remove the air compressor plug from the accessory power outlet and unscrew the inflating hose from the tire valve. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If 26 psi (1 79 kPa) tire pressure is reached in six minutes or less, disconnect the air compressor and attach the enclosed maximum speed label to the inside upper left corner of the windshield or to the face of the radio/clock.


label


The maximum speed reminds you to drive cautiously and not to exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) until you have the damaged tire inspected and repaired.


Tire Inflator Kit Storage


The tire inflator kit is stored in the rear hatch/trunk area of your vehicle.


-1


Repairheplace tire. Reparer ou remplacer le pneu. 0 Repararlsustituir el neumatico.


Place the air compressor pump and accessories into the inflator kit case and store in the hatchhrunk compartment area of your vehicle.


A'


E3


1. Remove the elastic cord (A) from around the v n t n i n i m m hnnb /a\ rrnrl clirln thn bit n11t frnm under the elastic band (C) that is secured to the floor of the hatch/trunk area.


urn I U UllUU L I IU I \ , % " U L


I G L U I I Ill 1y I I"-,\


I I " l l l


\ Y ,


2. Unwrap the elastic cord (A) from around the handle of the tire inflator kit. Open the tire inflator kit case by lifting up the two tabs located on either side of the kit handle.


5-73


To Stow the Tire Inflatnr Kit:


1. Loop the elastic cord (A) around the handle of the


tire inflator kit.


Stc,,,lg the tire inflator kit or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store the tire inflator kit in the proper place.


I A-


2. Insert the tire inflator kit under the elastic band (C) that is secured to the floor of the hatchkrunk area of your vehicle.


3. Wrap the elastic cord (A) around the retaining


hook (B).


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Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:


Gasoline Benzene 0 Naphtha 0 Carbon Tetrachloride 0 Acetone


Paint Thinner 0 Turpentine 0 Lacquer Thinner 0 Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous - some more than others -and


they can all damage your vehicle, too.


Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: 0 Alcohol 0 Laundry Soap 0 Bleach 0 Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. FabricKarpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on paqe 5-82.


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Here are some cleaning tips:


Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set. Carefully scrape off any excess stain. Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.


Coated Moldings These moldings are around the hatch opening in the rear area.


When lightly soiled, wipe with a sponge or soft lint-free cloth dampened with water. When heavily soiled, use warm soapy water.


Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.


For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product. Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.


Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.


in the


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Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and d


Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild Soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Security Shade and Convenience Net Wash with warm water and mild detergent, rinse with cold water and tumble dry on low. Do not use chlorine bleach. Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See GM Weatherstrips Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-82. Notice: Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply decals on the inside rear window, since they silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six --- -.--..I -- may have to be scraped Off later- If abrasive cleaners months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent appiicaiion may be requirea. See Pari E; Eecuffui/e//&u’ att; uacu WII LIIG Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 13. electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.


L - not bleach or dye sa. - -y belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.


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5-77


Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-82. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle. Notice: Conveyor systems on some automatic car washes may damage your vehicle. They may not have enough clearance for the undercarriage or for the wide rear tires. Check with the manager before using a car wash.


Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-82. If your vehicle has a “basecoatlclearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoatlclearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoatlclearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.


Removable Roof Panel Special care is necessary when cleaning, removing and/or storing the roof panel. 0 Flush with water to remove dust and dirt, then dry


the panel.


0 Clean the panel with GM Glass Cleaner. Leave the cleaner on the panel for one minute, then wipe the panel with a soft, lint-free cloth.


0 Don’t use abrasive cleaning materials If water drops are frequently allowed to dry on roof panel, impurities in the water will adhere to the top. These impurities may etch or mar the finish. When the panel gets wet, you should dry it off. Notice: Do not use a glass treatment or conditioner containing ethyl alcohol or ethyl sulfate on the roof panel. These products may damage the panel.


Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. If you use a glass treatment or conditioner containing ethyl alcohol or ethyl sulfate on your glass, be sure to remove the acrylic roof panel, if so equipped. These products may damage the panel. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in tull-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.


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Convertible Top Your convertible top should be cleaned often. If you use an automatic car wash, use one with water jets and hanging cloths. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle. When you hand wash the top, do it in partial shade. Use a mild soap, lukewarm water and a soft sponge. A chamois or cloth may leave lint on the top, and a brush can chafe the threads in the top fabric. Don’t use detergents, harsh cleaners, solvents or bleaching agents. Wet the entire vehicle and wash the top evenly to avoid spots or rings. Let the soap remain on the fabric for a few minutes. When the top is really dirty, use a mild foam-type cleaner. Your dealer has a Convertible Top Cleaner and Water Repellent. Thoroughly rinse the entire vehicle, then let the top dry in direct sunlight. To protect the convertible top: * After you wash the vehicle, make sure the top is


completely dry before you lower it. Don’t get any cleaner on the vehicle’s painted finish; it could leave streaks. If you decide to go through an automatic car wash, ask the manager if the equipment could damage your top.


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Aluminum Wheels Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: When applying a tire dressing, always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires.


Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials avaliable from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. Magnesium Wheel Finish Notice: Improper paint repair or refinishing can cause corrosion damage to a magnesium wheel. See your dealer if a magnesium wheel needs paint repair or refinishing. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of +hr. &rnmn mh-, ,lA hn l n ~ c ~ n A , - 4 hnfAm hninn $IIi hnrl LIIG 11a11lc DIIUUIU uc I U U ~ G I I G U UGIUIG U G I I I Y ~IUSIIGU. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can

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