2001 Chevrolet Corvette Owners Manual

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: D Know the best way to get to where you are

going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most

large cities. You’ll save time and energy. See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”

D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

City Driving

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.

At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.

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The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Chevrolet dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.

Here are some things you can check before a trip: D Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?

Are all windows clean inside and outside?

D Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? D Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked

all levels?

D Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? D Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,

trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?

D Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook

along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? D Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a

comfortably cool interior.

D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to

the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently.

D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. D Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid

levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

D Know how to go down hills. The most important

thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

CAUTION:

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

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CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

D Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down

to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. D Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane

roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

D As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

D You may see highway signs on mountains that warn

of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving: D Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Keep your traction control system on. It improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has the TCS system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. If your vehicle has the optional Active Handling System, it may also activate. See “Traction Control System” and “Active Handling System” in the Index.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index. D Allow greater following distance on any

slippery road.

D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: D Turn on your hazard flashers.

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D Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that

you’ve been stopped by the snow.

D Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

Recreational Vehicle Towing Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground will damage drivetrain components.

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Loading Your Vehicle

Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver’s door tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry. This weight is called Vehicle Capacity Weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all non-factory-installed options.

The other label is the Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 100 lbs. (45 kg) in the rear area.

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CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

NOTICE:

Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. D Put things in the rear area of your vehicle.

Try to spread the weight evenly.

D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in

your vehicle.

D When you carry something inside the

vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

D Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you

need to.

If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

Towing a Trailer Your Corvette is neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer.

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Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.

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5-3
5-8
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Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating

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Cooling System If a Tire Goes Flat Tire Inflator Kit (Z06 Models Only) If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

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Hazard Warning Flashers

Press this button to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. To turn off the flashers, push the button again. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please use the following steps to do it safely.

CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: D They contain acid that can burn you. D They contain gas that can explode or ignite. D They contain enough electricity to

burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

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2. Get the vehicles close enough so that the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory plug. Turn off all lamps that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. In addition, it could save your radio.

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each.

CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

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CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelcoR battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or a body metal surface. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect negative (-) to negative (-) on the dead battery, as this can cause sparks.

CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

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7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

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11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

9. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (46 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the heavy, unpainted metal engine part on the vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the negative terminal on the vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your vehicle towed. See “Roadside Assistance” and “Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index. Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on the instrument cluster and a COOLANT OVER TEMP message on the Driver Information Center (DIC).

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Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode Should an overheated engine condition exist and the messages COOLANT OVER TEMP and REDUCED ENGINE POWER are displayed, along with the Check Engine light, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency; you may drive up to 50 miles (80 km).

NOTICE:

After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life monitor. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

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NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (B) or THIRD (3) for automatic transmissions.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

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Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

A. Electric Engine Cooling Fans B. Coolant Surge Tank

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CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

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NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.

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CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

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CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. So use the recommended coolant.

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

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3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper

mixture, to the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank.

1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about one-quarter turn and then stop. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the

engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan(s). By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank.

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure

cap is hand-tight.

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If a Tire Goes Flat Your Corvette has no spare tire, no tire changing equipment and no place to store a tire. It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. See “Tires” in the Index. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. If your vehicle has Extended Mobility Tires (EMT), you won’t need to stop on the side of the road to change a flat tire. EMT tires can operate effectively with no air pressure. If you drive on a deflated EMT for 50 miles (80 km) or less and at speeds of 55 mph (90 km/h) or less, there is a good chance that the tire can be repaired. Contact the nearest authorized Chevrolet or Goodyear EMT servicing facility, as soon as possible, to have the flat tire inspected and repaired or replaced. For more information, see “Extended Mobility Tires” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Special tools and procedures are required to service an Extended Mobility Tire (EMT). If these special tools and procedures aren’t used, you or others could be injured and your vehicle could be damaged. Always be sure the proper tools and procedures, as described in the service manual, are used.

To order a service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.

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Z06 models do not have Extended Mobility Tires. If a Z06 model tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place and stopping. Then do this: 1. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. 2. Set the parking brake firmly. 3. Put the shift lever (manual transmission)

in REVERSE (R).

4. Turn off the engine. 5. Inspect the flat tire. If the tire has been separated from the wheel or has damaged sidewalls or large tears that allow rapid air loss, call a tire repair facility. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If the flat tire is due to a slow leak caused by a nail or other similar road hazard, the Tire Inflator Kit may be used to repair the damaged tire temporarily. The kit uses a liquid tire sealant to seal small punctures in the tread area of the tire. The flat tire is then inflated to at least 26 psi (179 kPa) and driven to evenly distribute the tire

sealant. The tire pressure is checked after driving for a maximum of 10 minutes to see if the slow leak has been stopped. If the tire pressure is 19 psi (131 kPa) or more, inflate the tire up to the standard operating pressure as shown on the Tire Pressure Label found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. See “Tires, Pressure” in the Index. You should have the damaged tire repaired as soon as possible. The tire sealant is a temporary repair only. For more information regarding the tire inflator kit see “Tire Inflator Kit” following this section.

NOTICE:

If the tire pressure has dropped below 19 psi (131 kPa), the vehicle should not be driven further. Damage to the tire may be severe and the sealant will not be effective. Contact Roadside Assistance, see “Roadside Assistance” in the Index.

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Tire Inflator Kit (Z06 Models Only) Every Z06 model with P295/35ZR18 and P265/40ZR17 tires, when new, was equipped with a Tire Inflator Kit. The repair kit contains a detailed instruction card that outlines step by step the temporary repair procedure. Be sure to read and follow all the Tire Inflator Kit instructions. The kit also includes:

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A. Air Compressor B. Tire Sealant C. Sealant Filling Hose D. Air Compressor Accessory Plug E. Air Compressor

Inflator Hose

F. Air Pressure Gage G. Sealant Filling

Hose Plug

H. Valve

Core Remover

I. Spare Valve Core J. 55-mph Label

Air Compressor The air compressor included in the Tire Inflator Kit, was designed exclusively for the Z06 Model equipped with P295/35ZR18 and P265/40ZR17 tires. After the sealant has been injected into the flat tire, use the air compressor to inflate the tire to at least 26 psi (179 kPa). Instructions for connecting and using the air compressor are located on the air compressor.

Tire Sealant The kit contains a liquid sealant that when injected into a flat tire, may temporarily repair nail holes or cuts in the tread area of the tire. The tire sealant cannot repair tire damage caused while driving on a flat tire or a tire that has had a “blow out” or a tire that has punctures in the sidewall areas. The tire sealant solution is a one-time use application for one tire only. Check the tire sealant expiration date; the sealant may not be as effective beyond the expiration date. The tire sealant can be peeled off easily after drying.

NOTICE:

Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle is equipped with Extended Mobility Tires or tire pressure monitors. The tire sealant can damage tire pressure monitor sensors. See “Extended Mobility Tires” in the Index.

A. Inflating Hose B. Air Pressure Gage C. Air Compressor Plug

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NOTICE:

CAUTION:

The car engine must be running to avoid draining the battery while running the air compressor.

Follow the proper steps to be sure your vehicle won’t move. See “Parking Your Vehicle, Manual Transmission” in the Index.

Idling the engine in a closed-in place or with the climate control system off can cause deadly carbon monoxide (CO). See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate the tire to its recommended pressure. Do not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle with the engine running, if the shift lever is not in NEUTRAL (N) with the parking brake firmly set (manual transmission). Your vehicle can roll or move suddenly even when on fairly level ground. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, always set your parking brake and move the shift lever to NEUTRAL (N) when you start or idle your engine.

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NOTICE:

Do not allow the air compressor to operate continuously for more than 6 minutes to help prevent damage from overheating.

NOTICE:

If 26 psi (179 kPa) tire pressure cannot be reached after 6 minutes, the vehicle should not be driven further. Damage to the tire is severe and the sealant will not be effective. Remove the air compressor plug from the accessory power outlet and unscrew the inflating hose from the tire valve. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index.

If 26 psi (179 kPa) tire pressure is reached in 6 minutes or less, disconnect the air compressor and attach the enclosed maximum speed label to the inside upper lefthand corner of the windshield or to the face of the radio/clock.

The maximum speed label reminds you to drive cautiously and not to exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) until you have the damaged tire inspected and repaired.

Place the air compressor pump and accessories into the inflator kit case and store in the hatch/trunk compartment area of your vehicle.

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1. Remove the elastic cord (A) from around the

retaining hook (B) and slide the kit out from under the elastic band (C) that is secured to the floor of the hatch/trunk area.

2. Unwrap the elastic cord (A) from around the handle

of the Tire Inflator Kit. Open the Tire Inflator Kit case by lifting up the two tabs located on either side of the kit handle.

To Stow the Tire Inflator Kit:

CAUTION:

Storing the Tire Inflator Kit or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store the tire inflator kit in the proper place.

Tire Inflator Kit Storage The Tire Inflator Kit is stored in the rear hatch/trunk area of your vehicle.

A. Removable Elastic Cord B. Rear Retaining Hook C. Elastic Band

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A. Tire Inflator Kit B. Removable Elastic Cord

1. Loop the elastic cord (B) around the handle of the

Tire Inflator Kit (A).

A. Tire Inflator Kit B. Removable Elastic Cord C. Rear Retaining Hook D. Elastic Band

2. Insert the tire inflator kit under the elastic band (D) that is secured to the floor of the hatch/trunk area of your vehicle.

3. Wrap elastic cord (B) around the retaining hook (C).

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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

CAUTION:

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

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NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. You should turn your TCS System off. See “Traction Control System” in the Index. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. For a manual transmission, shift slowly between either FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), allowing the wheels to stop before shifting into gear. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

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Service Fuel Filling Your Tank Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Automatic Transmission Fluid Manual Transmission Fluid Hydraulic Clutch Rear Axle Engine Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement

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Tires Lifting Your Corvette Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Cleaning a Removable Roof Panel Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Cleaning Your Convertible Top Cleaning Aluminum Wheels Cleaning Tires Finish Damage Underbody Maintenance GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Service Parts Identification Label Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel Use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher for best performance. You may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines, but your vehicle’s acceleration may be slightly reduced. It is recommended that the gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and endorsed by the Canadian Motor Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the fuel pump.

Canada Only

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Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 91 (at least 87 for regular). If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at the recommended octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index. If this occurs, return to your authorized Chevrolet dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

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Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Chevrolet dealer for service. To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

Filling Your Tank

CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

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The fuel filler door release button is located inside of the center console storage compartment.

The fuel filler door is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle. The fuel cap is attached by a tether for your convenience.

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If your fuel filler door release won’t operate, there is a manual release tab. The tab is located against the upper trim on the driver’s side in the rear compartment. Pull the tab to manually release the fuel filler door.

While refueling, rest the tether across the tab on the fuel filler door to prevent damage to your vehicle’s finish. To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.

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CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

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Filling a Portable Fuel Container

Checking Things Under the Hood

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into

approved containers.

D Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

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Hood Release

NOTICE:

In order to avoid possible contact of the hood to the headlamp doors, either take care in raising the hood with the headlamps up, or turn off the headlamps prior to opening the hood.

To open the hood, first pull the handle located inside the vehicle below the instrument panel on the driver’s side.

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Then go to the side of the vehicle and pull up on the rear edge of the hood, near the windshield. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then, just pull the hood down and close it firmly.

Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood, you’ll see the following:

A. Coolant Surge Tank and

Pressure Cap

B. Battery C. Engine Oil Dipstick

D. Engine Oil Fill Cap E. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir G. Brake Fluid Reservoir

H. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped)

I. Windshield Washer

Fluid Reservoir

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Engine Oil If the LOW OIL LEVEL message on the Driver Information Center comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “Driver Information Center” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow ring located near the coolant surge tank. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

Do not check the engine oil level after the engine has been sitting overnight. A higher than normal reading might be obtained. Check oil level with the oil warm. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

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Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down.

NOTICE:

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index. See “Racing or Other Competitive Driving” in the index for additional information on engine oil.

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The engine oil fill cap is located on top of the valve cover on the passenger’s side of the engine. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: D GM4718M

Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M.

NOTICE:

If you use oils that don’t have the GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty.

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D SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard 4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Your vehicle’s engine is filled at the factory with a Mobil 1R synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. If temperatures are above 0_F (-18_C), you may substitute SAE 10W-30 with the starburst symbol. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

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When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil. This is not based on mileage, but on engine revolutions and engine operating temperature. When the computer has calculated that the oil needs changing, the GM Oil Life Systemt will indicate that a change is necessary. The mileage between oil changes will vary depending on how you drive your vehicle -- usually between 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and 15,000 miles (25 000 km) since your last oil and filter change. Under severe conditions, the system may come on before 3,000 miles (5 000 km). Never drive your vehicle more than 15,000 miles (25 000 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first) without an oil change. Use engine oil meeting the GM Standard GM4718M. The system won’t detect dust in the oil. So, if you drive in a dusty area, be sure to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or sooner if the CHANGE OIL SOON message appears. Remember to reset the Engine Oil Life Monitor whenever the oil is changed.

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How to Reset the Change Oil Soon Message To reset the CHANGE OIL SOON message after an oil change, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off. 2. Press the TRIP button so the OIL LIFE percentage

is displayed.

3. Press RESET and hold for two seconds. OIL LIFE

REMAIN 100% will appear. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

NOTICE:

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Replacement To remove the engine air cleaner/filter:

1. Pull up on the clips on each side to release

the assembly.

2. Pull the assembly out. 3. Replace the filter. See “Normal Maintenance

Replacement Parts” in the Index.

4. Push the assembly back into place. 5. Fasten the clips.

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Automatic Transmission Fluid How to Check It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your dealer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. There is a special procedure for checking and changing the transmission fluid. Because this procedure is difficult, you should have this done at your dealer service department. Contact your dealer for additional information or the procedure can be found in the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.

NOTICE:

We recommend that only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III be used, because fluid with that label is made specially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (80 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D High performance operation. If you do not use your vehicle under one of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for the proper service intervals for the transmission fluid and filter. Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing.

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How to Check Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Chevrolet dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.

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Then, follow these steps:

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of

the filler plug hole.

3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure

it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. 4. Tighten the plug to 20 lb-ft (27 N·m). Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic clutch fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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How to Check and Add Fluid

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

Fluid should be added if the fluid level is below the step on the inside of the reservoir. There are additional instructions on the reservoir cap. Put the rubber seal and cap back on. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use To add lubricant when the level is low, use SAE 75W-90
Synthetic Gear Lubricant (GM Part No. 12378261) or equivalent meeting GM Specification 9986115. To completely refill after draining, add 4 ounces (118 ml) of Limited-Slip Differential Lubricant Additive (GM Part No. 1052358) or equivalent. Then fill to the bottom of the filler plug hole with the Synthetic Gear Lubricant. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Checking Coolant

The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment behind the passenger’s side headlamp. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark. The FULL COLD mark is on the front of the coolant surge tank. Don’t overfill the surge tank. Too much coolant can result in an overflow when the fluid is hot.

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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

Power Steering Fluid

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight. Surge Tank Pressure Cap

NOTICE:

The surge tank pressure cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating.

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for information on location. 6-26

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.

D When the engine

compartment is hot, the level should be at the HOT mark.

D When the engine

compartment is cool, the level should be at the FULL COLD mark.

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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NOTICE:

D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Adding Washer Fluid

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid

level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above the MIN mark on the reservoir. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is between the MIN and MAX marks.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Maintenance Schedule. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

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CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

NOTICE:

D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

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Brake Adjustment As you make brake stops, your disc brakes automatically adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery. For battery replacement, see your dealer or the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. After the battery has been replaced, refer to the “Remote Keyless Entry System” in the Index to resynchronize your transmitter(s). See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for battery location. WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

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Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulb, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your Chevrolet dealer’s service department. Halogen Bulbs

CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

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Headlamps 1. The headlamp doors need to be halfway open. Turn the headlamps on, then quickly back to the parking lamps setting. You may have to do this a few times to get the half-open position.

2. Remove the screws using a screwdriver on each side

of the headlamp bezel.

3. Open the hood. 4. To remove the bezel, pull the sides slightly outward

and tilt the bezel forward. Pull the clip centered above the lens outward. Be careful not to scratch the paint.

You can also open the headlamp doors manually by turning the adjuster counterclockwise.

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Rear Turn Signal and Taillamps

5. Reach behind the lamp and turn the bulb

counterclockwise to remove it. Don’t touch the halogen bulbs. The inner bulb is the high beam and the outer bulb is the low beam.

6. Disconnect the desired bulb from the wiring harness. 7. Reverse the steps listed previously with a new bulb.

A. Back-up Lamp B. Inboard Taillamp C. Outboard Taillamp

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1. Remove the screws using a TorxR screwdriver. 2. Pull the taillamp housing assembly out.

3. To remove the socket with the bulb, squeeze the tab

while you turn the socket counterclockwise.

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4. Remove the bulb from the socket. 5. Reverse the steps listed previously with a new bulb.

Back-Up Lamps You can access the back-up lamps through the inboard taillamp opening. See “Rear Turn Signal and Taillamps” in the Index. 1. Squeeze the tab on the socket while turning it

counterclockwise to remove it from the assembly.

2. Remove the bulb from the socket. 3. Reverse the steps listed previously with a new bulb.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in the index for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index. It’s a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly every six months.

NOTICE:

Use care when removing or installing a blade assembly. Accidental bumping can cause the arm to fall back and strike the windshield.

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To remove the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Open the hood to gain access to the windshield wipers. 2. Lift the wiper arm until it locks into a vertical position.

A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab

D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook

3. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab (C). Pull down on the blade assembly (A) to release it from the wiper arm hook (F).

4. Remove the insert from the blade assembly (A). The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

To install the new wiper insert, do the following:

1. Slide the insert (D), notched end last, into the end

with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). Plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully installed.

2. Be sure the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.

3. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

4. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly