1995 Chevrolet Camaro Owners Manual

City Driving

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip, Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”) Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

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At the entrance there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use

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Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in.

Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Chevrolet dealers all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lumps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable.

Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

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Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your Chevrolet in good shape for winter. Be sure your engine coolant mix is correct. You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your trunk.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You‘ll have a lot less traction or *’grip‘’ and will need to be very careful.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about freezing (32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. If you have ASR, keep the system on. It will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has the ASR system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See “ASR System” in the Index. If you don’t have the ASR system, accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

Your anti-lock brakes improve your ability to make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock‘’ in the Index. 0 Allow greater following distance on any slippery

road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to $ummon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red

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cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for awhile. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable

. ..

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from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. Loading Your Vehicle

can be in your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry. This weight is called the Vehicle Capacity Weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options.

TIRE-LOADING INFORMATION

OCCUPANTS

FRT. CTR. RR.

VEHICLE CAP. WT.

TOTAL

LBS.

KG

MAX. LOADING & GVWR SAME AS VEHICLE COLD TIRE CAPACITY WEIGHT

XXX SPEED

PRESSURE RTG

PSliKPa

TIRE SIZE

FRT. RR. SPA. IF TIRES ARE HOT. ADD 4PSIi28KPa SEE OWNER‘S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

MFDBYGENERALMOTORSCORP DATE GVWR GAWR FRT GAWR

RR

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLI- CABLE U.S. FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY, BUMPER, AND THEFT PREVENTION STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE.

Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver’s door tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that

The other label, is the Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross

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Axle Weight Rating GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 100 pounds (45 kg) in your rear area.

the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

If you put things inside your vehicle--like suitcases, tools, packages or anything else--they will go as fast as

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Towing a Trailer

NOTICE: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your Chevrolet dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Your car can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.

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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points. 0 There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

0 Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 kmh) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers (or no more than 55 mph (90 k d h ) ) to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,500 pounds (680 kg) under normal driving conditions. It should never weight weigh more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) when driven on long grades at high ambient temperatures. But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at: Chevrolet Motor Division Customer Assistance Department P.O. Box 7047 Troy, MI 48007-7047 In Canada, write to: General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Assistance Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total capacity weight of your vehicle. The capacity weight includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must subtract the tongue load from your vehicle’s capacity weight because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the recommended pressure for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.

’ I ‘

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Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: 0 Will you have to make any holes in the body of your

vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.

0 The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for

hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much fxther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

Making ’hrns

NOTICE: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.

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It’s

the green arrows on your

When towing a trailer, instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind are seeing your signal when they are not. you important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating. If you are towing a trailer and you have an automatic transmission with Overdrive, you may prefer to drive in DRIVE (D) instead of Overdrive (or, as you need to, a lower gear). Or, if you have a manual transmission with FIFTH or SIXTH gear. It is better not to use FIFTH or SIXTH gear. Just drive in FOURTH gear (FIFTH gear if you have a six-speed manual transmission) (or, as you need to, a lower gear).

Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1.

Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual transmission. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brakes until the chocks absorb the load. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and then shift to PARK(P) or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission. Release the regular brakes.

2. 3.

4.

5.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: 0 Start your engine; 0 Shift into a gear; and 0 Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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NOTES

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0 Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road. Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

Press the button in to make your frc signal 1 off.

ont and rear turn ights flash on and

Your hazard warning flashers work no manel- what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.

To turn off the flashers.

When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your Chevrolet. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.

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NOTICE: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your Chevrolet by pushing or pulling it could damage your vehicle, even if you have a manual transmission. And if you have an automatic transmission, it won’t start that way.

To Jump Start Your Chevrolet: 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a

negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. I

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your Chevrolet, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all

lights that aren’t needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

I NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. Thk repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries.

Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery.

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5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect (+) to (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.

~~

~ _ _ _ _ _ _ ~ ~ ~ ~ _ _ _ _ _ ~

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the

positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. But don’t use the junction block on your Chevrolet. 8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good

battery’s negative (-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away

from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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Towing Your Car

A ,

- B +

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal. A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your Chevrolet. The usual towing equipment is a sling-type (A) or a wheel-lift (B) or car carrier (C) tow truck.

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If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding aftermarket items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these instructions and illustrations may not be correct. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

That your vehicle cannot be towed from the front or rear with sling-type equipment. That your vehicle has rear-wheel drive. The make, model, and year of your vehicle. 0 Whether you can still move the shift lever.

If there was an accident, what was damaged.

When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.

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When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the car’s steering column lock for this. The transmission should be in “Neutral” and the parking brake released. Don’t have your vehicle towed on the rear wheels, unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the rear wheels, don’t go more than 35 mph (55 km/h) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transmission will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the rear wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

Front Towing Hook-Ups

Attach T-hook chains to slots in frame rearward of front wheels on both sides.

NOTICE: Do not attach winch cables or “J” hooks to suspension components when using car carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.

NOTICE: Do not tow with sling-type equipment or fascidfog light damage will occur. Use wheel lift or car carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps.

NOTICE: Take care not to damage the brake pipes and hoses or the ABS sensor and wiring.

NOTICE: Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle-to-ground or vehicle-to-wheel-lift-equipment contact. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.

Attach a separate safety chain around outboard end of each lower control arm.

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Rear Towing Hook-Ups

Attach T-hook chains in front of rear wheels in bottom of frame rail on both sides.

I NOTICE:

Do not attach winch cables or “J” hooks to suspension components when using car carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.

NOTICE: Do .not tow with sling-type equipment or rear Use wheel lift or car carrier equipment. bumper valqce wilI be damaged.

Additional rainping may be required for car carrier equipment. Use safety chdins and wheel straps.

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NOTICE: Take care not to damage the brake pipes and cables.

NOTICE: Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle-to-ground or vehicle-to-wheel-lift-equipment contact. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.

Attach a separate safety chain around each outboard end of the rear axle.

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your Chevrolet’s instrument panel. You may also find a low coolant warning light on your Chevrolet’s instrument panel. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

NOTICE: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be . badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. 0 Stop after high speed driving. 0 Idle for long periods in traffic.

Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (a) or DRIVE (D) for automatic transmissions.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turn ofSthe engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

System

Cooling V-6 Engine

V-8 Engine

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see: 1. Coolant recovery tank 2. Radiator pressure car, 3. Electric engine fan

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see: 1. Coolant recovery tank 2. Radiator pressure cap 3. Electric engine fans

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The coolant level should be FULL COLD. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

I NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on check to see if the electric engine fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it isn’t, your vehicle needs service.

When it is cool, remove the coolant recovery tank cap and look at the dipstick.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at FULL COLD , add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)

I NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant.

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When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at FULL COLD, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

5-18

HOW to Add Coolant to the Radiator (V-6 Engines)

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

5-19

~~

3. Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base

of the filler neck.

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to FULL COLD.

5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan(s).

7. By this time the coolant level inside the radiator

filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

5-21

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator - LT1 (Code P) Engine Only

NOTICE: The LT1 Engine (Code P) has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

5-22

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

5-23

3. After the engine cools, open the air bleed valves on

the heater return hose and water pump inlet.

4.

5. 6.

7.

Fill with the proper mix. Add coolant until you see a steady stream of coolant coming from the bleed valves. Close the bleed valves. Continue to fill the radiator up to the base of the filler neck. Rinse or wipe the spilled coolant from the engine and compartment.

5-24

8. Start the engine and allow it to run in idle for approximately four minutes. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator will be lower. Add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

9. Shut the engine off and replace the pressure cap. Be

sure the arrows on the cap line up like this.

10. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the proper

level.

For a complete drain, flush and refill, see your Chevrolet dealer or a Chevrolet Service Manual. To purchase a service manual, see “Service Publications’’ in the Index.

5-25

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-26

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

The equipment you’ll need is in the right (passenger) rear area behind the trim panel. First you must remove the close-out panel. See “Close-Out Panel’’ in the Index. Find the plastic screw heads in the trim panel over the spare tire. Use a coin or a key to turn the screw heads until the slots point front and back to the unlock position. Gently lift the trim panel front forward edge and move it out of the way.

5-27

Jsemove the wing nut and adapter and pull out the spare.

To remove the jack and wheel wrench, loosen and remove the bolt and remove the plastic cover.

5-28

A

Start with the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B).

The jack has a bolt at the end. Attach the wheel wrench to the jack bolt. Turn the wheel wrench to the right to raise the lift head a little.

5-29

If your wheel has a center cap, pry it off using the wheel wrench.

If your vehicle has a bolt-on wheel cover, loosen the plastic caps using the wheel wrench and remove the wheel cover.

5-30

If your vehicle has optional alloy wheels, each wheel may have one locknut in place of the standard wheel nut. A special wheel lock key (removal tool) and instructions are located in the center console. Attach the wheel lock key to the socket of the wheel wrench. Remove the locking wheel nut by turning counterclockwise.

Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet.

5-31

Position the jack under the vehicle. There is a notch in the vehicle's rocker flange. Raise the jack head until it fits firmly into the notch nearest the flat tire. On convertible models, place the jack in a similar location.

Stay away from the moldings or fender flanges to avoid damaging them.

NOTICE: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

7 I - T

a a

Raise the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

5-33

Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

Lower the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown.

Don’t try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the rear area until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

NOTICE: Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

5-35

Replace the jack, wheel wrench and flat tire using the storage instructions. When you replace the trim panel, be sure to tuck it under the weatherstrip. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5 . 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Trim Panel Bolt Cover Jack Wing Nut Adapter Compact Spare Tire Full-Size Tire Carpet Flap Tire Storage Bolt

Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at posted speed limits for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 O00 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again. When the compact spare is on the rear axle, the optional ASR system will cycle and limit acceleration for about the first 15 seconds of driving after each engine start.

NOTICE: Don’t take your compact spare through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

rails. That

I I NOTICE:

If the compact spare is used as a rear tire, do not drive faster than 50 mph (80 km/h). Damage to if the compact spare is the rear axle may occur driven faster than 50 mph. This speed limitation does not apply when the compact spare is used as a front tire.

Don’t use your compact spare on some other vehicle. And don’t mix your compact spare or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare and its wheel together.

I NOTICE:

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them will damage your vehicle and destroy the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

5-37

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

I NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has ASR, you should turn the system off. (See “ASR System” in the Index.) Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) gear and REVERSE), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Car” in the Index.

0 Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your Chevrolet. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care. Service Your Chevrolet dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.

We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: n-

Delco

6-1

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper Chevrolet Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your Chevrolet than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Chevrolet” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

6-2

I NOTICE:

If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough about it, your vehicle could be damaged.

Fuel 3.4L L32 (Code S) and 3800 L36 (Code K) The 8th digit of your vehicl,e identification number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index.) Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the United States and Canada, it‘s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see UNLEADED right on the pump, And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle‘s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If‘ the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid

of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Etl?mol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethuuol is fine for your vehicle. Metlwrnof is methyl or wood alcohol.

NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “co~oIvent~’’ and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.

6-3

Fuel 5.7L LT1 (Code P) The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index.) Use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher. You may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines, but your vehicle may not accelerate as well. The gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the United States and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see UNLEADED right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 9 I (at least 89 for middle grade and 87 for regular). If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 9 1 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

6-4

But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.’’ Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.

I NOTICE:

Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.

Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

6-5

Filling Your Tank

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Chevrolet” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear at least three clicks.

NOTICE: If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). 6-6

Checking Things Under the Hood Hood Release

L/ I Ill-

Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the hood release located at the center area of the hood. Lift the hood.

To open the hood, first pull the. handle inside the lower left side of your vehicle.

When you open the hood you’ll see: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

Battery Engine Coolant Reservoir Engine Oil Dipstick Automatic Transmission Dipstick (if equipped) Air Cleaner Oil Fill Cup Brake Fluid Reservoir Power Steering Reservoir Windshield Washer Reservoir Engine Fan Clutch Fluid Reservoir (if equipped)

3800 L36 (Code K)

6-8

3.4L L32 (Code S)

When you open the hood you’ll see: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

Battery Engine Coolant Reservoir Engine Oil Dipstick Automatic Transmission Dipstick (if equipped) Air Cleaner Oil Fill Cap Brake Fluid Reservoir Power Steering Reservoir Windshield Washer Reservoir Engine Fan Clutch Fluid Reservoir (if equipped)

6-9

5.7L LT1 (Code P)

When you open the hood you’ll see: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

Battery Engine Coolant Reservoir Engine Oil Dipstick Automatic Transmission Dipstick (if equipped) Air Cleaner Oil Fill Cap Brake Fluid Reservoir Power Steering Reservoir Windshield Washer Reservoir Engine Fans Clutch Fluid Reservoir (if equipped)

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on. Then just pull the hood down and close it firmly.

Engine Oil

LOW blL

If the “LOW OIL” light on the instrument panel comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “Low Oil” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

6-11

3.4 L - L32 (Code S) Oil Dipstick Location

3800 - L36 (Code K) Oil Dipstick Location

6-12

5.7 L - Ltl (Code P) Oil Dipstick Location

To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back i n all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

3.4 L - L32 (Code S) and 3800 - L36 (Code K)

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

6-13

5.7 L - Ltl (Code P)

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

I NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The oil fill cap is located on the valve cover near the oil dipstick. Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

6-14

What Kind of Oil to Use Oils of the proper quality for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. The “Starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is preferred for use in your gasoline enpine.

3800 L36 (Code K)

RECOMMENDED SAE VlSCOSlW GRADE ENGINE OILS

__-_____

FOR BEST FUEL EONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SA€ VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

- -

-_.___--____--I__--

WOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the “Starburst” symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum institute certified for gasoline engines. You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

I SAE 5W-30

COLD

WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 20W-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

6-15

3.4L L32 (Code S) and 5.7L LTl (Code P)

RECOMMENDED SAL VISCOSITY GRADE EN61NE OILS __ ~ _ _ _

-~ FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAL VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

.______

~~

.~ __ .

_.__

HOT

WEATHER

’ - 18

SAE ZW-30 PREFERRED

WEATHER

6-16

00 NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50. As shown in the chart, SAE low-30 is best for your 3.8L equipped vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it’s going to be colder than 60°F (16°C) before your next oil change. When it’s very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

I NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the proper oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle.

Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your Chevrolet dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop and go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas. You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your car.

If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever comes first. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever comes first.

Engine Coolant Heater An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0°F (- 18 “C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

6-17

Air Cleaner V6 ENGINES

V8 ENGINE

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

6-18

Air Filter Replacement To remove the air filter:

NOTICE: If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

1. Remove the two plastic pins by pulling them straight

UP.

6-19

2. Disconnect the plastic clamp on the duct. Pull apart

the connection.

3. Pull the air cleaner straight up. Unclamp the metal

clips.

6-20

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Chevrolet dealer Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while.

0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. 0 While pulling a trailer.

4. Open the air cleaner and remove the filter. Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

3800 Engine Transmission Dipstick

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). To check transmission fluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (10°C) drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures. To check transmission fluid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level. To check the fluid hot or cold:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running.

6-22

3.4L Engine Transmission Dipstick

5.7L Engine Transmission Dipstick

1.

2.

3.

Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. Check both sides of the dipstick and read the lower level.

6-23

3.4 L and 5.7L Engines

3800 Engine Transmission Dipstick

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check

6-24

n o w to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint. Don ’t over$iZZ. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way.

Manual Transmlssion Fluid How to Check Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Chevrolet dealer Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

I NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.

6-25

Then, follow these steps: 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of

the filler plug hole.

3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage I n your vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic clutch fluid. It isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your clutch fluid. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. 6-26

A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

How to Check The proper fluid should be added if the level is below the “STEP” mark on the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Standard Differential Use Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. 1052271) or SAE 8OW-90 GL-5 gear lubricant.

Limited-Slip Differential To add lubricant when the level is low, use Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. 1052271) or SAE 8OW-90 GL-5 gear lubricant. To completely refill after draining, add 4 ounces (1 18 ml) of Limited-Slip Differential Lubricant Additive (GM Part No. 1052358). Then fill to the bottom of the filler plug hole with Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. 12345977) or SAE 8OW-90 GL-5 gear lubricant.

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Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating or if you need to add coolant to your radiator, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your Chevrolet will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 262” F ( 128 * C). Protect against rust and corrosion.

0 Help keep the proper engine temperature. 0 Let the warning lights work as they should. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 1825-M,” which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to GM Specification 1825-M with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

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I NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

Adding Coolant

5.7L LT1 Engine Only

To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, check the dipstick on the cap of the coolant recovery tank. The coolant level should be at COLD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level on the dipstick should be up to the HOT, or a little higher.

If this light comes on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

To Add Coolant to the Recovery Tank If you need more coolant, add the proper mix ut the coolant recovery tank, but only when your engine is cool. If the tank is very low or empty, also add coolant to the radiator, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index for information.

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Radiator Pressure Cap (All Engines)

NOTICE: Your radiator cap is a 18 psi (124 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

When you replace your radiator pressure cap, an AC@ cap is recommended. Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended.

I I 1

Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

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Power Steering Fluid 3.4L Engine

3800 Engine

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5.7L Engine

A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

\ '

When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the H or HOT mark. When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be at the C or FULL COLD mark.

How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. Add enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.

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What to Add Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and

car ” in the Index.

To Add

NOTICE: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

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NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

0 Fill your washer fluid tank only 314 full

when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Brakes Brake Master Cylinder Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

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There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in your master cylinder might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as

necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

To Check Brake Fluid

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections’’ in the Index.

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above the plastic seam in the reservoir. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the plastic seam, near the base of the filler neck.

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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme II@ (GM Part No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.

I NOTICE:

Brake Wear Unless you have the four-wheel disc brake option, your Chevrolet has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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NOTICE: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. If you have rear drum brakes, they don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete