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Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


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Your vehicle’s engine is filled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM4718M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. Notice: engine uses a special oil filter. The use of any other engine oil filter could lead to filter failure and result in severe engine damage. Damage caused by use of the wrong engine oil filter would not be covered by your new vehicle warranty.


If your vehicle is an XLR-V model, the


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When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL NOW message in the DIC will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 206. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System and the Oil Life Indicator The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE OIL NOW message in the DIC being turned on, reset the system. After the oil has been changed, the CHANGE OIL NOW message and the oil life indicator must be reset. To reset the message use the following procedure: 1. Press the up or down arrow to scroll the DIC


to show OIL LIFE.


2. Once the XXX% ENGINE OIL LIFE menu item


is highlighted, press and hold the RESET button until the percentage shows 100%. If the percentage does not return to 100% or if the CHANGE OIL NOW message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.


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What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.


Supercharger Oil Because they are technically qualified and have the proper tools, you should have your dealer perform this maintenance.


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When to Check See Additional Required Services on page 467 for when the oil level should be checked. What Kind of Oil to Use Use only the recommended supercharger oil. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 473.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 374
for the location of the engine air cleaner/filters. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters Inspect the air cleaner/filters at the Maintenance II intervals and replace them at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 465 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filters at each engine oil change.


How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters To inspect the air cleaner/filters, remove the filters from the vehicle and lightly shake the filters to release loose dust and dirt. If the filters remain caked with dirt, new filters are required. To inspect or replace the filters, do the following: 1. Some XLR-V vehicles, have a single piece black cover that snaps over the entire air cleaner assembly. For vehicles with this cover, simply pull it’s left/right sides toward the outside of the vehicle and lift up to remove cover. Reinstall the cover when you are finished inspecting/replacing the filters.


2. Move the clasps on the top of the engine air


cleaner/filter cover forward to unlatch the cover.


3. Lift the front of the cover at an angle and remove. This is necessary due to the four tabs located on the rear of the cover.


4. Remove the engine air cleaner/filter element and any loose debris that might be found in the air cleaner base.


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5. Inspect or replace the filter. 6. Repeat the procedure for the second air


cleaner/filter.


Reverse the above procedure to reinstall the engine air cleaner filter housings.


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire


Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


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Automatic Transmission Fluid How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. There is a special procedure for checking and changing the transmission fluid. Because this procedure is difficult, you should have this done at the dealership service department. Contact your dealer for additional information or the procedure can be found in the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 497. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 473.


Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 467, and be sure to use the fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 473.


A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Giving freezing protection down to −34°F


(−37°C).


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 388.


(cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as they


should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


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If you use an improper coolant


Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 473 for more information.


If you use extra inhibitors and/or


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


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Checking Coolant


The engine coolant surge tank is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. For more information on location, see Engine Compartment Overview on page 374.


{CAUTION:


Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark, located on the side of the surge tank that faces the front. If the LOW COOLANT message on the Driver Information Center (DIC) comes on and stays on, it means you are low on engine coolant. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 206
for more information.


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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When replacing the pressure cap, press down and turn it clockwise until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure the cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


If the pressure cap is not tightly


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 374 for more information on location.


Engine Overheating You will find a COOLANT OVER TEMP message or an ENGINE HOT, STOP ENGINE message displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 206. You will also hear a chime. There is also an engine coolant temperature gage on the instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 195.


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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 390 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


If your engine catches fire because


Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 390 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant message, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer.


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Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists and the DIC message ENGINE HOT, STOP ENGINE is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. Driving extended miles (km) in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 377.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in


NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Set the climate controls to the highest heat


setting and fan speed and open the windows as necessary.


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


{CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.


A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap


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Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 390 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


A low coolant level should be indicated by a LOW COOLANT message on the Driver Information Center (DIC). If it is, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service.


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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 385
for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


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{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and


Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


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1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


2. Then keep turning the cap and remove it.


3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper


mixture until the level inside the surge tank stabilizes at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the surge tank.


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If the LOW COOLANT message does not appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) after two minutes, the coolant is at the proper fill level. If a LOW COOLANT message does appear, repeat Steps 1 through 3 then reinstall the pressure cap, or see your dealer.


Power Steering Fluid


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 374 for reservoir location.


4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off,


start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level stabilizes at the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the


cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


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When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition off and let the engine


compartment cool down.


2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir


clean.


3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a


clean rag.


4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the


fluid level on the dipstick.


The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.


What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 473. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.


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Adding Washer Fluid The LOW WASHER FLUID message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) when the fluid is low.


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 374
for reservoir location.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer


fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.


(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only


three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in


your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


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Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 374 for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.


So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 465.


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Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above the MIN mark on the reservoir. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is between the MIN and MAX marks. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3
brake fluid. Refer to Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 473. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


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{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 446.


(cid:127)


Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.


Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment As you make brake stops, your disc brakes automatically adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


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Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. For battery replacement, see your dealer or the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service and Owner Publications in Service Publications Ordering Information on page 497. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 403 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


You must close all doors and the trunk before reconnecting the battery. After reconnecting the battery, you must press the unlock button on the keyless access transmitter. Failure to follow this procedure may result in the alarm sounding. Pressing unlock on the keyless access transmitter would stop the alarm.


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Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


If you try to start your vehicle by


Notice: pushing or pulling it, you could damage your vehicle. Do not push or pull your vehicle


to start it; instead, use the jump starting procedure in this manual to start your vehicle when the battery has run down. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a


12-volt battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a


Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper


cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


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Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find


the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 374 for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


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{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


{CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect


it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


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8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery


and run the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead


battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


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If the jumper cables are connected or


Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from


the vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from


the vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


Perform ″Power Window Initialize″ steps under Power Windows on page 82, if the vehicle has experienced power loss. Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.


How to Check Lubricant


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


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Headlamp Aiming


What to Use To add lubricant when the level is low, use SAE 75W–90 Synthetic Gear Lubricant (GM Part No. 89021677) or equivalent meeting GM Specification 9986115. To completely refill after draining, add 4 ounces (118 ml) of Limited-Slip Differential Lubricant Additive (GM Part No. 1052358) or equivalent. Then fill to the bottom of the filler plug hole with the Synthetic Gear Lubricant.


Your vehicle has high intensity discharge (HID) visual optical aiming type headlamps. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. If you suspect that the headlamps need to be reaimed, it is recommended that you contact your dealer for service. However, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure. Notice: To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.


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The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: (cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so the


headlamps are 25 ft (7.6 m) from a light colored wall.


(cid:127) The vehicle must have all four tires on a


perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall.


(cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so it is


perpendicular to the wall.


(cid:127) The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or


mud attached to it.


(cid:127) The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.


(cid:127) The vehicle should be normally loaded with a


full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.


(cid:127) Tires should be properly inflated. (cid:127) Start the vehicle and rock it to level the


suspension.


Headlamp aiming is done with the low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps are correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly.


The headlamp aiming device is under the hood near the headlamps.


Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx® socket or T15 Torx screwdriver.


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Headlamp Vertical Aiming To properly prepare the vehicle for vertical headlamp aiming see Headlamp Aiming on page 408 for more information. To adjust the vertical aim, do the following: Notice: Horizontal aiming must be performed before making any adjustments to the vertical aim. Adjusting the vertical aim first will result in an incorrect headlamp aim. 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on


page 373 for more information.


2. Locate the aim dot on the inner projector lens


of the low-beam headlamp.


3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on each low-beam headlamp. Record this distance.


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4. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from


the ground upward (A) to the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it.


Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall or flat surface the width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4.


6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a


piece of cardboard in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the flat surface.


7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws,


which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm male hex.


8. Turn the vertical


aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line.


9. The top edge of the cut-off should be


positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line.


10. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim.


11. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite


headlamp.


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Bulb Replacement It is recommended that all bulbs be replaced by your dealer. Windshield Replacement Keep in mind that your windshield is part of the Head-Up Display (HUD) system. If you ever have to get your windshield replaced, be sure to get one that is designed for HUD or your HUD image may look blurred or out of focus. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 465. It is a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly on a regular basis or when worn. For proper windshield wiper blade length and type, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 475.


412


To replace the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Place the vehicle in accessory mode and turn


the wipers on. Position the wipers on the windshield in the mid-wipe position. Then with a door open, turn the vehicle off.


2. Tip the blade up and pull up on the tab to


release the wiper blade assembly.


3. To install, align the wiper blade with the loop on the wiper blade assembly, and push up to snap it into place.


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 354.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same


danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 422.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If


the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.


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If your vehicle has P235/45R19 or


Low-Profile Tires (XLR-V) Notice: P255/40R19 size tires, they are classified as low-profile tires. Low-profile tires are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like potholes or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your GM warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.


Winter Tires (XLR-V) If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. All season tires provide good overall performance on most surfaces but they may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads.


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Winter tires, in general, are designed for increased traction on snow and ice covered roads. With winter tires, there may be decreased dry road traction, increased road noise, and shorter tread life. After switching to winter tires, be alert for changes in vehicle handling and braking. See your dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 428. If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on


all four wheel positions.


(cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load


range, and speed rating as the original equipment tires.


Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W, Y, and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.


Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The example below shows a typical passenger (p-metric) tire sidewall.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example


(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.


(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


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(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 431.


(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger (p-metric) vehicle tire size.


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.


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(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.


(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


Tire Terminology and Definitions


Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).


Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.


Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.


Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.


Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 422.


Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.


417


DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.


GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 354.


GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 354.


GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 354.


Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.


Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.


Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.


Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1
to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.


Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.


Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.


Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.


Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 354.


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Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.


Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.


Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.


Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 422 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 354.


Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.


Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.


Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.


Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.


Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 428.


UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 431.


419


If a tire goes flat, you will not need to stop on the side of the road to change the tire. You can just keep on driving. The shorter the distance you drive and the slower the speed, the greater the chance that the tire will not have to be replaced. If you drive on a deflated run-flat tire for 50 miles (80 km) or less and at speeds of 55 mph (90 km/h) or less, there is a good chance that the tire can be repaired. The tire can operate effectively with no air pressure for up to 100 miles (160 km) at speeds up to 55 mph (90 km/h), but the tire would then have to be replaced. When a tire is filled with air, it provides a cushion between the road and the wheel. Because you will not have this cushion when driving on a deflated tire, try to avoid potholes that could damage your wheel and require replacement of it.


Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 354.


Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.


Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 354.


Run-Flat Tires Your vehicle, when new, had run-flat tires. There is no spare tire, no tire changing equipment, and no place to store a tire in the vehicle. Run-flat tires perform so well without any air that a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) is used to alert you if a tire has lost pressure.


420


Some road hazards can damage a tire beyond repair. This damage could occur even before you have driven on the tire in a deflated condition. When a tire has been damaged, or if you have driven any distance on a run-flat tire, check with an authorized run-flat tire service center to determine whether the tire can be repaired or should be replaced. To maintain your vehicle’s run-flat feature, all replacement tires must be self-supporting tires. As soon as possible, contact the nearest authorized GM or run-flat servicing facility for inspection and repair or replacement. To locate the nearest GM or run-flat servicing facility, call Roadside Assistance. For phone numbers and Roadside Service details see Roadside Service on page 487.


{CAUTION:


Run-flat tires are constructed differently than other tires and could explode during improper service. You or others could be injured or killed if you attempt to repair, replace, dismount, or mount a run-flat tire. Let only an authorized run-flat service center repair, replace, dismount, and mount run-flat tires.


The valve stems on your run-flat tires have sensors that are part of the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 423. These sensors contain batteries which are designed to last for 10 years under normal driving conditions. See your dealer if you ever need to have a wheel replaced, or if the sensors ever need replacement. Notice: Using liquid sealants can damage the tire valves and tire pressure monitor sensors in your vehicle’s run-flat tires. This damage would not be covered by warranty. Do not use liquid sealants in your vehicle’s run-flat tires.


421


A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar, below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 354. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more.


Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards


422


How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) Your vehicle has a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) that sends tire pressure information to the Driver Information Center (DIC). Using the DIC control buttons, the driver is able to check tire pressure levels in all four road tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 423 and DIC Controls and Displays on page 204 for additional information.


Tire Pressure Monitor System Your vehicle has a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). This system uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly on your vehicle. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.


423


When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light, located in the instrument panel cluster, and at the same time the LOW TIRE PRESSURE warning message on the Driver Information Center (DIC) displays. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message appear at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Controls and Displays on page 204 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 206. You may notice, during cooler weather conditions, that the low tire pressure warning light and the LOW TIRE PRESSURE DIC warning message may come on when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This may be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) is getting low and needs to be inflated to the proper pressure. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of


424


a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.)


As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated.


Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability.


Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more


tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 354, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 422
for additional information. Your vehicle’s TPMS can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 426, When It Is Time for New Tires on page 428, and Tires on page 413. Notice: Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle has Tire Pressure Monitors. The liquid sealant can damage the tire pressure monitor sensors.


425


TPMS Sensor Identification Codes Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate your vehicle’s tires, the identification codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: driver’s side front tire, passenger’s side front tire, passenger’s side rear tire, and driver’s side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer for service. Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful


interference.


2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.


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The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.


Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.


Tire Inspection and Rotation The tires on your vehicle should be inspected regularly for wear. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 428 and Wheel Replacement on page 432 for additional information. If your vehicle has P235/50R18 size tires they should be rotated any time you notice unusual wear.


When rotating P235/50R18 size tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label, see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 422 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 354. Vehicles that have the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) system will need to have the sensors reset after a tire rotation is performed. A special tool is needed to reset the sensor identification codes. See your dealer for service. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See Wheel Replacement on page 432 and “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 458.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


XLR-V Tires Tire rotation is not recommended if your vehicle has P235/45R19 size tires on the front axle and P255/40R19 size tires on the rear axle. Different tire sizes front to rear should not be rotated.


427


When It Is Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more


places around the tire.


(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through


the tire’s rubber.


(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or


snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.


(cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage


that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


428


Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 415 for additional information.


Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W, Y, and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose snow tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.


{CAUTION:


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle), brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle), brands or types, may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type tires on all four wheels.


{CAUTION:


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system may give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 423.


429


Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 354
for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle.


Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.


{CAUTION:


If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.


See Buying New Tires on page 428 and Accessories and Modifications on page 363 for additional information.


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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.


Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.


If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.


Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire clearance to the body and chassis.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


{CAUTION:


Never use oil or grease on studs or the threads of the wheel nuts. If you do, the wheel nuts might come loose and the wheel could fall off, causing a crash.


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Tightening Wheel Lug Nuts


{CAUTION:


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts.


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can


Notice: lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.


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Tighten the wheel lug nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.


Used Replacement Wheels


{CAUTION:


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


Tire Chains


{CAUTION:


Lifting Your Vehicle


{CAUTION:


Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, re-adjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.


Lifting a vehicle can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to lift your vehicle. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift


lever in PARK (P).


3. Turn off the engine.


To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks in front of and behind the wheels.


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Notice: Lifting your vehicle improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To lift your vehicle properly, follow the advice in this part. To help prevent vehicle damage: (cid:127) Be sure to place a block or pad between


the jack and the vehicle.


(cid:127) Make sure the jack you are using spans at


least two crossmember ribs.


(cid:127) Lift only in the areas shown in the following


pictures.


For additional information, see your GM dealer and the Cadillac XLR service manual.


{CAUTION:


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


{CAUTION:


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to place the jack in the proper location before raising the vehicle.


If you ever use a jack to lift your vehicle, follow the instructions that came with the jack, and be sure to use the correct lifting points to avoid damaging your vehicle.


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