2009 Cadillac SRX Owners Manual

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back down the hill in R (Reverse). If the engine has stopped running, you need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to P (Park) and restart the engine. Then, shift to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in R (Reverse). (cid:129) While backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position so you can tell if the wheels are straight and can maneuver as you back down. It is best to back down the hill with the wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover. Things not to do if the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, when going up a hill: (cid:129) Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into N (Neutral) to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. The vehicle can roll backward very quickly and could go out of control. (cid:129) Never try to turn around if about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall the vehicle, it is steep enough to cause it to roll over. If you cannot make it up the hill, back straight down the hill. If, after stalling, you try to back down the hill and decide you just cannot do it, set the parking brake, put your transmission in P (Park), and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. 4-19 (cid:129) (cid:129) Things not to do when driving down a hill: (cid:129) When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down might be too steep to drive across. The vehicle could roll over. (cid:129) Never go downhill with the transmission in N (Neutral), called free-wheeling. The brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade. Vehicles are much more likely to stall when going uphill, but if it happens when going downhill: 1. Stop the vehicle by applying the regular brakes and apply the parking brake. 2. Shift to P (Park) and, while still braking, restart the engine. 3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight down. 4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help. Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, consider: (cid:129) How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain vehicle control? (cid:129) What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel? (cid:129) Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders? (cid:129) What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks? If you decide you can go down a hill safely, try to keep the vehicle headed straight down. Use a low gear so engine drag can help the brakes so they do not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping the vehicle under control at all times. { CAUTION: Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control. 4-20 (cid:129) Surface conditions can be a problem. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause the tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over. (cid:129) Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, the vehicle can tilt even more. For these reasons, carefully consider whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over. If you feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. The best way to prevent this is to “walk the course” ﬁrst, so you know what the surface is like before driving it. Driving Across an Incline An off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. To decide whether to try to drive across the incline, consider the following: { CAUTION: Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead. (cid:129) A hill that can be driven straight up or down might be too steep to drive across. When going straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when driving across an incline, the narrower track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — might not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels which could cause a downhill slide or a rollover. 4-21 Stalling on an Incline { CAUTION: Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path. If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over. Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do not get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick, turning is more difficult, and braking distances are longer. It is best to use a low gear when in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, keep the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck. When driving on sand, wheel traction changes. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle does get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause it to slide out of control. { CAUTION: Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only. 4-22 Driving in Water { CAUTION: Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water. Heavy rain can mean ﬂash ﬂooding, and ﬂood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before driving through it. Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not get through. Deep water can damage the axle and other vehicle parts. If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start the engine. When going through water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it might take longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-25. After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a ﬁre hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. The vehicle requires more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information. 4-23 Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside rearview mirror. (cid:129) Slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead. (cid:129) Watch for animals. (cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. (cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or curves. No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. 4-24 Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or ﬂowing water. { CAUTION: Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through ﬂowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through ﬂowing water. Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:129) Keep the windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir ﬁlled. (cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires on page 5-48. Turn off cruise control. 4-25 (cid:129) Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows clean — inside and outside? (cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inﬂated to recommended pressure? (cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have up-to-date maps? Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, ﬁnd a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead and to the sides. (cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments often. Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on ﬂat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:129) Check all ﬂuid levels and brakes, tires, cooling system, and transmission. (cid:129) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a lower gear. { CAUTION: If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope. 4-26 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) { CAUTION: Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill. (cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident). (cid:129) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action. See Off-Road Driving on page 4-11 for information about driving off-road. Winter Driving Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. The Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6 improves the ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When driving through deep snow, turn off the traction control system to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. 4-27 (cid:129) The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4 improves vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces. Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Service on page 7-7. To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe: Turn on the Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6. Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror. { CAUTION: Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. If the vehicle is stuck in the snow: (cid:129) Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. (cid:129) Check again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. (cid:129) Open a window about two inches (5 cm) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air. (cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or under the instrument panel. (cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index. 4-28 CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:129) (cid:129) CAUTION: (Continued) For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-36. Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust. Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful. To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat. Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel. If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-30. If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method. { CAUTION: If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment ﬁre or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer. For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-72. 4-29 Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-36. Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certiﬁcation/Tire label. { CAUTION: Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle. 4-30 Tire and Loading Information Label Label Example A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will ﬁnd the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inﬂation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inﬂation see Tires on page 5-48 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-56. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certiﬁcation/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certiﬁcation/Tire Label” later in this section. 4-31 Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle. 3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs. 4. The resulting ﬁgure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be ﬁve 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs). 5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-39 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips. 4-32 Example 1 Example 2 Item Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = Total Item 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 300 lbs (136 kg) 700 lbs (317 kg) Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight = Total 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 750 lbs (340 kg) 250 lbs (113 kg) 4-33 positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight. Certiﬁcation/Tire Label United States version shown, Canada similar A vehicle speciﬁc Certiﬁcation/Tire label is attached to either the driver’s door edge or the lower center pillar on the driver’s side of the vehicle. This label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle and is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). Example 3 Item Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight = Total 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 0 lbs (0 kg) Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for speciﬁc information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating 4-34 The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo, and trailer tongue weight, if pulling a trailer. The Certiﬁcation/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To ﬁnd out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Similar appearing vehicles may have different GVWRs and payloads. Please note the Certiﬁcation/Tire label on your truck or consult your dealer for additional details. { CAUTION: Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle. 4-35 Towing Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Service on page 7-7. To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following. Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else —they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going. { CAUTION: Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. (cid:129) Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly. (cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. (cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. (cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. (cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to. There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See Off-Road Driving on page 4-11. 4-36 Dinghy Towing Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations. (cid:129) What is the distance that will be travelled? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. Is the proper towing equipment going to be used? See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-26. If the vehicle is towed with all four wheels Notice: on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Do not tow the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. The vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. If the vehicle must be towed, see “Dolly Towing” following for more information. 4-37 (cid:129) (cid:129) Dolly Towing Notice: Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle with any of its wheels on the ground. Use the following procedure to dolly tow a RWD vehicle from the rear: 1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the dolly manufacturer’s instructions. 2. Drive the rear wheels onto the dolly. 3. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on page 2-32. 4. Put the transmission in P (Park). 5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the manufacturer’s instructions. 6. Use an adequate clamping device designed for towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position. 7. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF. Level Control This feature keeps the rear of the vehicle level as the load changes. The system is automatic and no adjustments are necessary. Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) vehicles, can be towed using a dolly. All-Wheel-Drive (AWD) vehicle, can only be towed on a ﬂat-bed trailer. 4-38 Towing a Trailer { CAUTION: The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle. The vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. The trailer also adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. 4-39 Three important considerations have to do with weight: The weight of the trailer The weight of the trailer tongue The total weight on the vehicle’s tires Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Pulling A Trailer Here are some important points: There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. (cid:129) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later in this section. (cid:129) Do not tow a trailer at all during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. (cid:129) Vehicles can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. (cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts. 4-40 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Use the following chart to determine how much the vehicle can weigh, based upon the vehicle model and options. Package Maximum Trailer Weight Base V92 Trailering Package 2,000 lbs (907 kg) 4,250 lbs (1 928 kg) GCWR* 6,853 lbs (3 808 kg) 9,353 lbs (4 242 kg) *The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for the vehicle should not be exceeded. Ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at: Cadillac Customer Assistance Center Cadillac Motor Car Division P.O. Box 33169 Detroit, MI 48232-5169 In Canada, write to: General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7 4-41 Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-30 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity. 4-42 If a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch is being used, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10-15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce the trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be: If the vehicle has many options and there is a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. 300 lbs (136 kg) could be added to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. The vehicle now weighs: Expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle is greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you might think 700 additional pounds (318 kg) should be subtracted from the trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. The maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think the tongue weight should be limited to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But the effect on the rear axle must still be considered. Because the rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), 900 lbs (408 kg) can be put on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight that can be handled. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, expect that the largest trailer the vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). 4-43 (cid:129) Will any holes be made in the body of the vehicle when the trailer hitch is installed? If so, be sure to seal the holes when the hitch is removed. If they are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the engine’s exhaust can get into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-36. Sealing the holes will also prevent dirt and water from entering the vehicle. Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. It is important that the vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure it is not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh the vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Certiﬁcation label or see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-30 for more information. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If using a weight distributing hitch, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit before applying the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. 4-44 (cid:129) Tow/Haul Mode Pressing this button at the end of the shift lever turns on and off the tow/haul mode. This indicator light on the instrument panel cluster comes on when the tow/haul mode is on. Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. See Tow/Haul Mode on page 2-31. Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the Trailer” later in the section. Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: (cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load through rolling terrain. (cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load in stop and go traffic. (cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired. Operating the vehicle in Tow/Haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no beneﬁt to the selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Trailer Brakes A loaded trailer that weighs more than 1,000 lbs (900 kg) needs to have its own brake system that is adequate for the weight of the trailer. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed, adjusted and maintained properly. Because the vehicle has StabiliTrak, do not try to tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all. 4-45 Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods of sunshine, the ﬂoor of the truck bed may become very warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed that might be affected by high ambient temperatures. Driving with a Trailer { CAUTION: When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. To maximize safety when towing a trailer: (cid:129) Have the exhaust system inspected for leaks and make necessary repairs before starting a trip. (cid:129) Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or rear-most window open. (cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or under the instrument panel. (cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting that brings in only outside air and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index. For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-36. 4-46 Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel ﬂash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also ﬂash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. 4-47 Driving on Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating. Vehicles can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. The tow/haul mode may be used if the transmission shifts too often. See Tow/Haul Mode previously. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If the engine is turned off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, the vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with the automatic transmission in P (Park) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If the overheat warning comes on, see Engine Overheating on page 5-29. Parking on Hills { CAUTION: Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a ﬂat surface. If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill. 2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking brake and shift into P (Park). 5. Release the brake pedal. 4-48 Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you: (cid:129) Start the engine (cid:129) Shift into a gear (cid:129) Release the parking brake 2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See this manual’s Maintenance Schedule or Index for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission ﬂuid, engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing The cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-29. 4-49 ✍ NOTES 4-50 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ............................................................5-3 Accessories and Modiﬁcations ..........................5-3 California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4 California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4 Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle .................................................5-5 Fuel ................................................................5-5 Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-6 California Fuel ...............................................5-6 Additives .......................................................5-7 Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7 Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8 Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10 Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10 Hood Release ..............................................5-11 Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12 Engine Oil ...................................................5-16 Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-19 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-20 Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-22 Cooling System ............................................5-22 Engine Coolant .............................................5-23 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-29 Engine Overheating .......................................5-29 Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode .........................................5-31 Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-31 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-32 Brakes ........................................................5-34 Battery ........................................................5-37 Jump Starting ...............................................5-38 All-Wheel Drive ..............................................5-42 Rear Axle .......................................................5-43 Front Axle ......................................................5-44 Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-45 Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-45 High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting ............5-46 Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-46 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-46 Tires ..............................................................5-48 Winter Tires .................................................5-49 Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-50 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions .....................5-53 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-56 High-Speed Operation ...................................5-58 Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-59 Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-60 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-64 When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-65 5-1 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Buying New Tires .........................................5-66 Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-68 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-68 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-70 Wheel Replacement ......................................5-70 Tire Chains ..................................................5-72 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-73 Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-74 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-75 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire ................................................5-78 Secondary Latch System ...............................5-82 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-85 Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-88 Appearance Care ............................................5-89 Interior Cleaning ...........................................5-89 Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-90 Leather .......................................................5-91 Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces ........................................5-92 Wood Panels ...............................................5-92 Speaker Covers ............................................5-92 Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-92 Weatherstrips ...............................................5-93 Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-93 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-93 Finish Care ..................................................5-94 Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................5-94 Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels and Trim ...5-95 Tires ...........................................................5-96 Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-96 Finish Damage .............................................5-96 Underbody Maintenance ................................5-96 Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-96 Vehicle Identiﬁcation ......................................5-97 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) .................5-97 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label .....................5-97 Electrical System ............................................5-98 Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-98 Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-98 Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-98 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-99 Underhood Fuse Block ..................................5-99 Rear Underseat Fuse Block (Left Side) ..........5-103 Rear Underseat Fuse Block (Right Side) ........5-106 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-109 5-2 Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: Accessories and Modiﬁcations When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance and safety, including such things as airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Damage to vehicle components resulting from the installation or use of non-GM certiﬁed parts, including control module modiﬁcations, are not covered under the terms of the vehicle warranty and may affect remaining warranty coverage for affected parts. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on the vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize the vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-70. 5-3 Doing Your Own Service Work { CAUTION: You can be injured and the vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before attempting any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If the wrong fasteners are used, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate. 5-4 If doing some of your own service work, use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service the vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. This vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-70. Keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work performed. See Maintenance Record on page 6-17. Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things added to the outside of the vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of the vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of this vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes the vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 5-97. Gasoline Octane If the vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine (VIN Code 7), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. For best performance or trailer towing, you could choose to use middle grade 89 octane unleaded gasoline. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. 5-5 California Fuel If the vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-39. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty. If the vehicle has the 4.6L V8 engine (VIN Code A), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but the vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-7 for additional information. 5-6 Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. For customers who do not use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline regularly, one bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change, can help clean deposits from fuel injectors and intake valves. GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the only gasoline additive recommended by General Motors. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. 5-7 Filling the Tank { CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off the engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling the vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling the vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger side of the vehicle. To open the fuel door, push the rearward center edge in and release and it will open. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door. 5-8 { CAUTION: Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank, and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-93. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-39. The TIGHTEN GAS CAP message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display if the fuel cap is not reinstalled properly. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-51 for more information. { CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage the fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-39. 5-9 Filling a Portable Fuel Container { CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in the vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and the vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:129) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:129) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while pumping fuel. Checking Things Under the Hood { CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-10 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 1. Pull the hood release lever with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle on the lower left side of the instrument panel. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and ﬁnd the secondary hood release lever. The lever is located under the front edge of the grille near the center. Move the release lever to the side and raise the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it ﬁrmly. 5-11 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3.6L V6 engine, you will see the following: 5-12 A. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-99. B. Remote Negative (-) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-38. C. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-38. D. Battery. See Battery on page 5-37. E. Passenger Compartment Air Filter. See Passenger Compartment Air Filter on page 3-28. F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-31. G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. H. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-34. J. Engine Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-29 and Cooling System on page 5-22. K. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. L. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-32. 5-13 When you open the hood on the 4.6L V8 engine, you will see the following: 5-14 A. Remote Negative (-) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-38. B. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-38. C. Battery. See Battery on page 5-37. D. Passenger Compartment Air Filter. See Passenger Compartment Air Filter on page 3-28. E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-31. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. G. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-34. I. Engine Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-29 and Cooling System on page 5-22. J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. K. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-99. L. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-32. 5-15 Engine Oil The vehicle could have an oil pressure light on the instrument cluster. There is also an OIL PRESSURE LOW STOP ENGINE message on the Driver Information Center (DIC). If the light and/or message appears, check the engine oil level right away. For more information, see “OIL PRESSURE LOW STOP ENGINE” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-51 and Oil Pressure Light on page 3-42. You should check the engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. 5-16 When to Add Engine Oil 3.6L V6 Engine Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. 4.6L V8 Engine If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-109. 5-17 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for three things: Notice: Using oils that do not have the GM4718M Standard designation can cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. (cid:129) SAE 5W-30 SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). (cid:129) GM4718M This vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identiﬁed as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. 5-18 This vehicle’s engine was ﬁlled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil meeting all requirements for this vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M might not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives / Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM standards are all you need for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system ﬂushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-51. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/ retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the Engine Oil Life System: 1. Display the OIL LIFE REMAINING on the DIC. 2. Press and hold the SET/RESET button on the DIC for more than ﬁve seconds. The oil life will change to 100%. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start the vehicle, the Engine Oil Life System has not reset. Repeat the procedure. 5-19 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. 4.6L V8 shown, 3.6L V6 similar The engine air cleaner/ﬁlter is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle, near the front. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 5-20 When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. To inspect or replace the ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Remove the two screws located on the top of the cover. 2. Disconnect the coolant recovery hose so that it is not going across the top of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 3. The two sides of the airbox are hinged at the bottom. Open the airbox by pushing the top of the airbox cover toward the engine. 4. Remove the air ﬁlter by lifting it straight up through the opening in the airbox. 5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. See Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-15 for the correct part number for the ﬁlter. 6. Reinstall the cover by reversing Steps 1 through 4. { CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre Notice: can cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. 5-21 Automatic Transmission Fluid How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. There is a special procedure for checking and changing the transmission ﬂuid. Because this procedure is difficult, you should have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. Contact your dealer/retailer for additional information or the procedure can be found in the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. 5-22 Cooling System The cooling system allows the engine to maintain the correct working temperature. 3.6L V6 shown, 4.6L V8 similar A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan(s) (Out of view) B. Mechanical Engine Cooling Fan (If equipped) (Out of view) C. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap Some vehicles may be equipped with an engine driven fan, as well as the electric pusher fans (A) which are located behind the vehicle’s grille. { CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-29. 5-23 What to Use { CAUTION: Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 5-24 Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture: (cid:129) Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C), outside temperature. (cid:129) Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C), engine temperature. If an improper coolant mixture is used, (cid:129) Protects against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Will not damage aluminum parts. (cid:129) Helps keep the proper engine temperature. Notice: the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13 for more information. If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant surge tank. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD/FROID line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank. Follow the arrow from the top of the tank down the side to the horizontal mark. If it is not, there could be a leak in the cooling system. If the coolant is low, add the coolant or take the vehicle to a dealer/retailer for service. The coolant surge tank and pressure cap are located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, toward the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 5-25 How to Add Coolant to the Surge Tank { CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. Notice: This vehicle has a speciﬁc coolant ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. { CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 5-26 { CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: 1. Remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter of a turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it. 5-27 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

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2009 Cadillac SRX Owners Manual